How to recall your dog with advice from an expert

Owner recalling dog — (Image credit: Alamy Stock Photo)

There are three main problems in the canine world of behaviour that are forever prevalent with new science and techniques evolving – these are separation anxiety, reactivity and how to recall your dog. Recall is something that can be different for all breeds of dogs and their personalities. Some dogs are over-exuberant and over-friendly dogs, while others are shy, and some have a high prey drive. These different personalities can affect the way recall is taught. One thing that never changes, however, is foundation and consistency. With this in mind, let’s have a look at the whys and wherefores of recall and how lots of little subtle things you do matter.

Why is recall important?

If you come across a dog on lead. If you see a dog on a lead, your dog should be put on lead – that is the golden rule and it is good manners to keep your dog on the lead until you have passed them. The dog that is on lead is on lead for a reason – either it has no recall, it is reactive, it could be recovering from surgery or simply cannot cope with dogs rushing up to or around them. There is nothing worse than a dog running over to you with no impulse control, no manners, and jumping all over you and your dog, and it’s worse still if the dog is aggressive and attacks you or your dog if your dog is on lead. The most common saying I hear if I am working a reactive dog on lead is “It’s OK my dog is friendly!” Actually, no it’s not OK. It’s also not that dog’s fault – it is the owner’s.
If you are around livestock. A dog must be placed on lead around livestock and in some rural areas you won’t know about the sheep or cows until you stumble come across them, so it is easy to be caught out. Your dog could be shot if it is worrying or chasing livestock.
If you meet horses. Plenty of riders take their horse to the beach, to the woods and on various other bridleways where they may encounter dogs. There have been numerous reports of dogs chasing and attacking horses, causing injury not only to the horse but invariably the rider to that is likely to be thrown.

In a class environment the next stage is what we’d call restrained recall with distractions, however, this is not possible while you’re on your own or walking your dog in a field or park. You can, however, get a long training line (like this one on Amazon) and do the same thing while there are other dogs around you. If you ask twice and your dog comes back to you without the line going tight then give him the reward. If your dog is still pulling towards the other dog or stimuli, then wind the dog in and repeat step 1 of “close” and “yes” continuously. If you have to wind your dog in after you’ve given the command twice, I would just stroke and say “yes” but not give the reward. Calling three times or more just teaches disobedience, so make sure you act and follow through rather than just repeating yourself.

Remember, a dog can only do as you ask. If you do not ask and teach, then your dog cannot be expected to know what you want and will make the “dog decision”. This is not out of malice or some desire to irritate you, simply because he is a dog and you have not given him the guidance necessary. For example, if you are training in a park and your dog sees another dog then you want him to leave it and come close, right? Therefore, you need to say it. “Leave it”, “close” and “yes”!

Distinct types of sound therapy may be useful in different situations – for example, you could make a shaky bottle yourself but you may need to be near the dog for it to be effective. If you use a tracker that beeps, you need to introduce it while the dog’s on the lead. You can wind them in if they freeze when they first hear the beep so that they learn that the beep is a no-go zone and that you are the safe zone. These GPS trackers are good in busier areas.

1. Avoid standing still – when calling your dog always try and move about, either a different direction or back on yourself. You can even hide if it is safe to do so. I find that if you stand still and call their name, even if you use the commands, it is too easy for the dog to hear you, see you and know that you are stood there waiting for them. Make it harder and make them wonder where you are going – then they have the choice of seeing you disappear or going off to the unknown person or dog. It is not foolproof, but coupled with other techniques mentioned above, I have found it successful.

4. Remember that male dogs (particularly intact ones) can be more difficult if going through a hormone spurt or there is an in-season bitch in the area. This makes it extremely hard for them to focus and concentrate as, sadly, the balls override the brain. They can be so hyper-aroused and alert that they do not even recognise their name, take food, or know what day of the week it is. During these times it is best to revert to basic training again.

5. Have yourself a “toolbox” with a long lead, nice treats and toys, your “yes” voice and a pat/fuss for when they get things right. Mix up tools for different scenarios so that you can get your dog out the fixated zone and get their attention back on you. Practise in various places, take all the tools and figure out what works best for you and your dog. If you are still having issues, call a professional.