Owners have been urged not to feel guilty if they are unable to poo-pick fields at the moment, as “there are times the weather simply wins”.

Parasite specialist Westgate Labs has reassured owners who are finding it impossible to remove droppings from their horses’ fields, owing to the very wet start to 2026, that they are not alone.

“If the start of 2026 has felt like one long downpour, you are not imagining it,” a Westgate spokesperson said. “Many horse owners have spent weeks staring at waterlogged paddocks, deep mud and gateways that swallow wellies whole. When the ground is saturated and a wheelbarrow will not move, regular poo picking can become impossible.

“With that often comes guilt. We know good pasture hygiene matters. Yet there are times when the weather simply wins.”

Many of the Westgate team keep horses and know the struggles this winter has brought. Director of marketing Claire Shand said: “Keeping horses means you live every inch of the weather. When the ground is saturated and you physically cannot get across it with a barrow, there’s nothing to do but accept the situation. Beating yourself up achieves nothing. The key is to focus on what you can control and have a sensible plan for when conditions improve.”

The spokesperson added that trying to drag loaded barrows through deep mud for winter poo-picking can cause injury to people and more damage to the wet ground.

“Parasite control is important, but so is avoiding burnout,” she said. “When it dries out, act strategically.”

Winter poo-picking

Horse owners are advised to start, once the ground dries, removing accumulated droppings as much as possible, which can significantly reduce contamination before worm larvae move more on to grazing.

“If you are considering harrowing to break up droppings, timing is critical,” she added. “Harrowing spreads larvae across the pasture, so it should only be done during dry, warm conditions when fields can then be rested. Ideally, rest harrowed pasture for at least six months before grazing again. Without that rest period, harrowing can increase, not reduce, infection risk.”

If space allows, any rotation can give contaminated areas a break, although if resting land for long periods is not practical, “the focus shifts to monitoring”.

“After a winter when pasture hygiene has been compromised, regular worm egg counts become even more important,” the spokesperson said. “Testing at appropriate intervals every eight to 12 weeks allows you to see whether egg shedding is rising.

“Use a structured risk assessment approach to review stocking density, age groups and recent history. If conditions have increased exposure, testing will highlight this before clinical signs appear. Evidence-based decisions are especially valuable when management options are limited.

“A wet winter does not undo years of responsible parasite control. What matters is how we respond. Remove what you can when you can. Rest and rotate where practical. Test regularly. Treat only when evidence supports it. Most importantly, look after your horse and yourself. Sustainable parasite control is about balance, not perfection.”

• To stay up to date with all the breaking equestrian news throughout 2026, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

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Knowing when horses feel the cold and, consequently, when to rug is something that sits almost permanently in the mind of many a horse owner.

When the temperatures start to drop and the forecast is wetter, it can be tempting to reach for that massive, all-in-one heavyweight turnout rug to keep your horse nice and toasty – but in the back of your mind, you know that vets have warned about the dangers of over-rugging.

If you’re deciding whether to rug your horse, you could consult our rugging temperature guide for a quick answer, but it’s important to know at what point your individual horse is actually feeling the cold. To be sure you’re doing the right thing, you need to consider and understand how nature has equipped him (and the rest of his species) with some unique tolerances to cope with cold, wet weather and changing seasons. Vet Ricky Farr explains why some horses may need a rug sooner or later than you might have thought.

How horses have adapted

Horses are found throughout every climate on the planet, from the sub-zero north to the tropics and arid deserts. Their adaptations that allow them to remain within their specific thermal neutral zone are impressive.

The term thermal neutral zone describes the ambient temperature range at which the body needs to make no additional physiological effort to warm or cool itself. Humans have a thermal neutral zone of roughly 18-30°C and Ricky explains that “in other words, in this zone you could stand naked and still maintain your internal core temperature without too much issue.”

Horses, however, have a much larger thermal neutral zone and so feel the cold much later than humans.

“The average adult horse can quite happily live unrugged in temperatures down to 5°C,” says Ricky. “Having visited Iceland, I can testify that the native Icelandic horses live quite happily without rugs in temperatures down to -15°C, with wind and snow blowing horizontally.

“These horses have incredibly thick coats that demonstrate piloerection (the ability of individual hairs to trap warm pockets of air). They are also well acclimatised to their environment.”

While it’s extremely unlikely your horse has adapted to this particular climate, you can be sure your horse is not feeling the cold until much later than you are.

How horses balance their temperature

“A horse’s internal core temperature is a balance between heat generated and lost,” Ricky explains. “Internal body temperature is maintained by metabolic functions, such as digestion, movement and cardiovascular activity. The body also tries to conserve heat through the insulating properties of hair, muscle, fat and skin. A full winter coat is not only insulating, but also provides a degree of water resistance.”

Horses can lose heat in four ways – evaporation, radiation, conduction and convection.

Evaporation

This heat loss mainly occurs from water on the skin, through sweating or getting wet, which is why hosing down after exercise in the summer is so effective.

“Although horses do not pant like dogs, for example, respiration can also play a large role in heat loss,” Ricky adds.

Radiation

This is the normal process of heat moving away from the body without physical contact, such as heat lost from the skin to the environment.

“It is closely linked to the ambient air temperature and body mass,” says Ricky, who gives the example of two breeds that have adapted to very different climates. “An Arabian horse has a higher body surface to mass ratio than a Norwegian Fjord, for example, so will cool more readily in hot temperatures.”

A variation of this is radiant heat loss, when heat is transferred to solid surroundings.

“Keeping a horse in a walled stable in cold weather can actually increase the amount of radiant heat loss” he advises.

Convection

This is caused by airflow across the body – for example, an unrugged horse standing in an exposed field without shelter when the wind chill factor is high will lose heat fast.

Conduction

This is heat loss with direct physical contact.

“Water is a fantastic heat conductor, so wetting of the skin can, once again, increase heat loss. A recent study suggested that horseshoes might also make a difference: hind hooves had significantly lower temperatures when shod,” Ricky adds.

How to tell if a horse is cold

Monitoring your horse’s temperature is good practice. The reading should be between 37.5-38.5°C, but it is important to know what is normal for your individual horse.

“Checking the rectal temperature with a thermometer is the best way,” Ricky advises. “The practice of feeling a horse’s ears to check if he is warm is a very poor indicator of temperature regulation. Placing a hand on his shoulder or trunk will offer some indication if he is too warm and sweaty under his rugs.”

When to rug a horse

So what does this all mean when it comes to selecting types of rugs and winter layers?

“In essence, think twice before grabbing any rug,” says Ricky. “A horse in good body condition, who has a full coat, access to forage, free-roaming exercise and some form of shelter from the elements does not necessarily need more protection.

“If he is young, old, likely to get excessively wet for long periods or exposed to harsh weather conditions, however, he may require extra layers.

“I would actively encourage people to refrain from rugging excessively unless temperatures consistently drop below 5°C, although clipped horses or warmblood breeds may also need light rugs if they are consistently wet or outside their thermo neutral zone.”

Where possible, a horse will avoid conditions that are uncomfortable or increase heat loss – for example, they’ll access shelter when they need it.

“Monitor your horse closely for any subtle changes in behaviour and adapt your management accordingly,” Ricky advises. “But allow him to be a horse and to benefit from a natural cycle of weight gain and loss over the seasons.”

Factors that affect when horses feel the cold

A variety of factors affect how horses horses manage and regulate their temperature, which in turn affect at what a horse will feel the cold.

Breed

Some breeds, including British native breeds, are better adapted to colder climates.

“A study revealed that surface heat loss was seen more in warmblood horses than cold-blooded types, although it was not known whether this was due to body composition or as a direct result of hair coat thickness,” Ricky adds.

“When deciding whether to rug, bear in mind that a horse’s hair coat type, length and density will play a large role in his insulating capacity.”

Age

Young horses may not yet have insulating body fat reserves, which could make them prone to heat loss. Youngsters and foals are also more likely to struggle in colder temperatures as their body has to work harder to generate sooner than an adult horse would.

At the other end of the spectrum, studies have found that older horses (26 and over) are more likely to overheat, especially during exercise. This is due to age-related changes in thermoregulation (body’s ability to return to an optimum temperature range). In addition, changes to coat quality and fat distribution will affect their insulating properties in colder temperatures.

Body condition

While an undernourished horse will have decreased muscle and fat mass, with reduced insulating capabilities, but an overweight animal has the opposite problem.

“As less of his ingested energy will be used for heat production, the excess will consequently be converted into fat – perpetuating obesity,” Ricky explains.

Activity level

An immobile horse (stabled, on box rest or kept in a small paddock) will be unable to walk significant distances, which results in reduced metabolic activity and heat production.

Clipping

Exposed areas of skin will mean reduced hair insulation and increased heat loss.

We tend to clip the neck, shoulders and trunk, which is where most surface heat is lost Ricky explains.

“Hence, while clipping works well for exercise, it can be disadvantageous if the environmental conditions result in further heat loss through radiation or evaporation.”

So when considering when or whether to rug your horse, there is a lot to take into account – and it’s wise to remember that just because you’re chilly, it doesn’t mean your horse is feeling the cold just yet.

• For unlimited access to advice on how best to care for your horse, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

You might also be interested in:

Which rug should I put on my horse? H&H’s helpful guide to help you decide

Not sure what rug to put on? An expert reveals how you could teach your horse to choose

Types of rugs – your horse’s full wardrobe explained

How to wash your horse’s rugs at home – and what’s best to use

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I think my brain purposefully gives me amnesia after a winter of horse care. Why? Because there’s no way I’d keep doing it over and over again if I could remember what I was in for each time!

Sadly, I can’t wave a magic wand and banish winter for good. Consequently, I’ve assembled some of the best winter horse care hacks I’ve found, learned or had passed on to me over 20 years of horse ownership. These pearls of wisdom have saved me time, kept me warm and helped me keep organised over the winter months – and I hope they’ll do the same for you.

Winter horse care hacks I’d recommend trying

1. Big rubber gloves

Getting my winter riding gloves wet doing yard tasks is one of my pet hates. Waterproof yard gloves are great, but until you can buy a pair, I recommend keeping a couple of pairs of oversized washing-up gloves on hand to wear over your riding gloves if they’re not waterproof – and it stops them getting muddy, too.

Doing this means I can tackle grooming, hosing legs and filling buckets without wetting my gloves. I can even whip them on over my gloves to smash ice in the trough without having to take my cosy gloves off. The Maridgolds stay at the yard and my gloves only ever get slightly damp, so even if I leave them in the car they’re usually fully dry by the time I want to wear them again.

2. Easy ice scooping

Speaking of icy troughs, keep a colander or large sieve on hand to scoop out floating bits of ice quickly and without freezing fingers. Floating a bottle of salt water in the trough can help prevent ice from forming in the first place – this also helps to stop water buckets freezing. Plus, you could wrap old rugs around buckets in stables to help insulate them.

3. Line those gloves…

.. with silk glove liners (like these we found on Amazon) for extra warmth. This hack came from H&H news editor Eleanor Jones who suffers terribly with cold hands.

4. See the feet clearly

My horses live out 24/7, and I always make sure I know what’s going on in their feet. This means giving the soles a proper scrub with a brush and water to clear the mud and have a good look for anything that might be amiss.

In the last couple of years, I’ve routinely used a hoof disinfectant (like this one on Amazon) to flush out any cracks and the frog grooves, and had a hoof clay (like this one) on standby. I’ve had two really good winters with minimal hoof problems as a result – my farrier even said she noticed a difference.

A daily foot check is something that you absolutely cannot miss, so keep a headtorch or light on hand if you’re not seeing your horse during daylight hours.

5. No fuss with feathers

Barrier creams and powders help maintain the skin by creating a non-stick surface for wet and mud. This keeps your horse cleaner and limits the skin’s exposure to mud.

6. Buy well, buy once

I can cope with cold, but working with horses while cold and wet is a truly miserable experience. This is why I strongly recommend investing in the best waterproof outerwear that you can.

We’ve put all sorts of waterproof gear through its paces, from wellies to waterproof coats and waterproof trousers. Take a look at our reviews and see what’s really worth the investment.

7. A game-changing garment

I was a waterproof breeches sceptic – until I got a pair of my own. Now, I wouldn’t be without them. Look for a pair that’s thermal, and you’ll never get cold on a winter hack again – we’ve rounded up the best waterproof breeches to help you choose.

8. Cotton sheets are a godsend

This is one of my favourite winter horse care hacks from before my gelding retired. He lived in at night and was fully clipped, so always in a rug. I kept two cotton sheets in rotation to place under his stable rug so the rug in contact with his skin was always clean.

I loved changing the sheet after hot clothing – it was like putting on clean pyjamas! The sheets are so light that they can be washed and dried at home.

Personally, I wouldn’t recommend doing this for turnout unless you’re confident the sheet won’t slip. I rotated 100g liners in his turnout rugs instead.

9. Name your nets and rugs

Ever since I lost two expensive small-holed haynets in a yard move (I may never financially and emotionally recover) I attach cheap keyrings (like these ones) with my name written on them to avoid confusion.

I’d also suggest using these to label the fill weights of your rugs to make them easily identifiable for storage or if someone is covering your horse’s care.

10. Glide over the snow

Plastic sledges are great for moving things when there’s snow or ice. Just put the item on top and tow it along. Saves fighting with wheelbarrows!

And if your horse struggles with balled up snow in his shoes, try applying Absorbine Hooflex to the sole. This helps prevent snow build up, and makes it easier for you or your horse to remove anything that does get stuck.

11. Be water smart

If you know temperatures are going to dip significantly, fill your buckets and troughs, plus as water carriers (like these ones) as you can beforehand – your future self will thank you when the pipes freeze.

Make sure to insulate your taps with a tap jacket (like this one) and don’t leave hosepipes lying around on the ground to freeze solid.

12. Arm yourself against frozen padlocks

Keep a can of lock de-icer (like this one) at the yard to thaw out any padlocks.

13. Pre-make your week’s feeds and haynets

I’m sure you’ll have heard this winter horse care tip before, but if you’re always running out of time in the week, setting aside an hour or so on a Sunday to make the week’s nets and feeds up can help you whizz through yard jobs in the week. If you can, it’s useful to bulk buy feed so you’re covered in the event of supply or delivery issues.

What helpful tips on managing your horses during the winter months would you like to share with fellow H&H readers? Send them to hhletters@futurenet.com, including your name, nearest town and county, for the chance for your advice to appear in a forthcoming issue of the magazine

• For unlimited access to advice on how best to care for your horse, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

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It doesn’t take much to have me questioning what rug to put on a horse – if only we could teach horses to choose a rug for themselves. I can’t be the only owner obsessively checking my weather app at the first hint of a cold snap, and then referring to a rugging temperature guide to double check my decision.

If you ever find yourself in this situation, you’ve probably also wished your horse could simply tell you whether they want their lightweight turnout, or if they’re quite happy in a rain sheet.

Well, I hope you’re sat down, because a team of Norwegian researchers taught 23 horses to do just that. They recorded their training methodology in this 2016 paper, and used their method to further research horses’ rugging preferences in an updated 2019 study.

Now, the project continues with high school students in Sweden and riding instructors in Norway learning how to train horses to communicate preference. The researchers are also developing a handbook to make the method more widely available – here are the key things you need to know to try it yourself.

Tolerance vs preference

Dr Cecilie Mejdell was one of the lead researchers.

“We observed that very many horse owners put a rug on their horse, and not just during heavy rain and other harsh weather conditions,” she explains.

“Knowing that horses in general are quite tolerant to low ambient temperatures, and that a rug covers preferred allo-grooming [horse-to-horse grooming] sites and also may disturb free movement, such as rolling, we wanted to know how horses themselves prefer to be under various weather conditions.”

The scientists already knew horses are adept at learning and distinguishing between cues, shape categories and geometric patterns thanks to research by Sappington and Goldman in 1994.

“Teaching horses to actively tell us to put on or take off a rug, using symbols, turned out to be an interesting method to try,” Dr Mejdell continues. She adds that they used clicker training principles to teach the horses.

“We had cooperation with a skilled animal trainer, Turid Buvik, who was certain that this was achievable.”

Training the horses to choose

Dr Mejdell and her team wanted to explore the possibility that horses’ discrimination between visual symbols could also link to a corresponding outcome, and whether this could allow horses to signal preference. In turn, these preferences might help guide horse-led management decisions.

The researchers applied this theory to rugging, and developed a tool to “ask” horses their rugging preferences.

Turid and her two assistants used positive reinforcement to train 23 horses of different breeds. The horses learned to recognise three symbols and to understand that the symbols had corresponding outcomes. These were “blanket on”, “blanket off”, and “no change”.

“We had different horse breeds in the training program, and all 23 horses learned the task within 14 training days,” explains Dr Mejdell. “Some individuals learned more quickly than others.

“Turid is a very skilled trainer, and that was probably important for the good training outcome.”

Once training was complete, the horses completed real-life preference tests. On one rainy test day, it was 9ºC. Of the 12 unrugged horses, 10 requested a rug while two opted for no change. Those two unrugged horses touched the “blanket on” symbol on test days with arguably the most challenging conditions: -12ºC and 1ºC with sleet.

“We do not know if every individual horse could learn this,” says Dr Mejdell. “But, given the 23/23 rate in our first project, we think that most can if they get a good trainer.”

How to teach your horse to choose a rug

Dr Mejdell says very little equipment is needed to teach this method.

“You need a food reward the horse likes, such as a carrot, and something to place the reward into so it is not hand-fed,” she says. “You also need symbol boards that can be hung on the wall and fence.

“In the early stages, we trained inside in the horses’ boxes, and later outdoors.”

The scientists and Turid developed a 10-step methodology for training the horses to communicate their rug preference. Each step has a goal criterion that, once achieved, the horse can move on.

The ten goals are split into three stages.

“The time needed per step varies among individual horses, and training must be tailored to each horse,” explains Dr Mejdell.

“During the first steps, the horse learns to approach and touch a board, using the principle of clicker training. Next, the meaning of two of the symbols [rug on and rug off] is learned by association and numerous repetitions.

“Lastly comes the transition to a free choice situation, and a “no change” symbol card is introduced. It is the horse who decides whether to have a rug put on [or taken off] or to stay unchanged.”

The 10 steps are described in the methodology paper (Mejdell et al., 2016). Dr Mejdell says these will be explained in far more detail in the upcoming handbook.

Timing is key

Dr Mejdell says that rewarding horses at the right moment matters.

“Timing is very crucial,” she explains. “In the early learning process, all ‘correct’ movements from the horse, however small, are rewarded.

“When two symbols are introduced, touching the meaningful one is rewarded, the other not.

“When the horse has passed on into the free choice situation and can choose between a relevant change symbol and the no-change symbol, touching either of those two symbol boards is rewarded.”

So, how long before you’re trying to teach your horse to choose their rug?

• To stay up to date with all the breaking news from major shows throughout the year, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

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Wondering how to wash horse rugs at home? It’s one thing keeping them dry, but keeping your rugs clean in winter can be difficult, too, especially if you’re relying on an ordinary washing machine. Many owners opt for professional rug laundry services to wash their rugs, which is recommended on an annual basis (and the best time to do this is before you put them away after winter, but we can’t be that organised all the time).

However, if the cost outweighs the effort saved and you want your rug clean immediately, here’s how to wash horse rugs at home – plus, if you’re planning on repairing your rugs, too, it’s worth washing them first.

Can you wash rugs in a washing machine?

Absolutely, if your machine is large enough – just follow these simple steps to protect your machine and your rugs.

1. Check the capacity of your machine

Most rugs can be machine washed at home, but this depends on the capacity of your machine, so you’ll need to check the specification against the weight of rug. Providing the machine is large enough, you’ll need to take a few steps before bunging a hairy, muddy, manure-stained rug into the same machine you wash your own clothes in – not only for your clothes, but to protect your machine.

2. Remove as much hair, dirt and mud as you can

Blast it with the hose, or let it dry out and use a dandy brush and a bit of elbow grease to remove the mud on the outside, while a vacuum cleaner is good for removing the stubborn hair on the inside.

3. Use a wash bag for protection

Put your rug in a large wash bag, such as the LeMieux laundry bag (available on Amazon) or the Horsewear washbag (also on Amazon), to prevent the hooks and buckles from damaging your machine. It also prevents any remaining horsehair from lingering in the machine drum. These can also be used for washing saddle pads, boots and bandages, so are worth the investment.

4. Wash on cool

A 30°C cycle is best for your rugs – and if you’re using a good wash product this should be plenty.

How to wash waterproof turnout rugs

To protect your rug, remove any detergent build-up from your dispenser, and select a gentle delicate cycle. Do not use regular detergent or fabric conditioner as these may compromise the laminate waterproofing of the rug. Instead choose one for washing delicates, or a recommended rug cleaning product, such as Nikwax Rug Wash (available on Amazon), which is designed to clean and restore water repellency.

Hang the rug up to dry, rather than tumble-drying.

There will eventually come a time where your turnout needs reproofing, but you can also waterproof your horse rugs at home – here’s how.

How to wash stable rugs

Winter stable rugs tend to absorb moisture because they are not waterproof, hence they can get smelly. Instead. some owners opt for lightweight turnout rugs, designed to repel moisture, on their horses in the stable.

Stable stains on the “indoor” rug can then be scrubbed off without the lining getting wet. You can vary the warmth with thermal rugs or cotton sheets underneath, which are lightweight and easy to wash in an ordinary machine. This way the horses’ coats stay clean and the top rugs only need washing once at the end of winter.

Often, the whole rug might not need a wash, but one mucky area could do with a good blitz. Most horse owners steer clear of pale rugs for obvious reasons, but for the stable stains that won’t budge, it’s worth trying a stain remover designed for grass stains and so on, such as Vanish (available on Amazon). The best stain removers for horses can do a good job on fabric too.

If your washing machine is too small, or the rest of the family don’t appreciate sharing it with your horse, it might be time to invest in a small power washer. You can find them for well under £100, either in your local DIY store or online (like this one on Amazon). The force of the water blasts off all the mud and dirt, and if you have a few horses on the yard, it will pay for itself quickly. It will come in handy for cleaning stables, too.

Avoid using a pressure washer on your waterproof turnout rugs, however, as it could damage the waterproof fabric.

How to wash summer rugs

Fly rugs and summer sheets are the easiest to wash as they are usually lightweight, making them easier to fit in your machine at home. However, the products we use on horses in summer, particularly if they suffer from sweet itch, can cause these rugs to become oily and dirty quickly.

Summer rugs should be washed in the same way as the other rugs described, using a wash bag (like this one on Amazon) and rug wash (also available on Amazon) to protect your machine while restoring your rugs to their former glory.

• For unlimited access to advice on how best to care for your horse, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

You may also be interested in…

Which rug should I put on my horse? H&H’s helpful guide to help you decide

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Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Horses get through bale upon bale of hay through winter, but can horses eat straw? The short answer is yes. Not only is straw safe for horses to eat, but there are also benefits to including this type of forage in your horse’s ration, too.

“As long as it’s introduced and fed correctly, straw can be really invaluable,” remarks independent equine nutritionist Clare MacLeod MSc RNutr. “Lots of owners feed it nowadays alongside their horse’s hay ration. It’s a great choice if you want to increase the time your horse spends eating without adding excessive calories.”

Rules of feeding straw to horses

There are a few golden rules for feeding straw. Firstly, as with any feed or forage, straw must be introduced into a horse’s diet gradually.

“If you have a grass-kept horse that comes in to a straw bed for the night and munches away for hours, problems may arise,” says Clare. “This is where the old-fashioned idea that eating straw causes impaction colic came from.

“While such a dramatic change from a grass diet to a large quantity of dry straw does represent a colic risk, research from Europe shows straw is perfectly safe to feed when done correctly and introduced slowly.”

Secondly, it’s essential to ensure your horse is drinking plenty of water.

“Ensure your horse has free access to clean fresh palatable water,” says Clare. “In winter, some horses drink too little if the water is very cold, but when you feed straw you need to be sure they are drinking plenty. Don’t make assumptions that just because a trough or tub is full, that it’s enough.”

Thirdly, take care to balance the diet correctly.

“Straw is lower in protein and minerals than hay, as well as providing less energy,” Clare explains. If you’re unsure how to correctly balance your horse’s diet, speak to a nutritionist for advice.

Finally, consider your horse’s teeth.

“Veterans or those with poor dentition might struggle to chew straw, so a softer hay may be more suitable,” she adds.

If you’re looking for other ways to make your horse’s hay ration last longer, small-holed haynets and slow feeders are a good idea.

What straw can horses eat?

For Clare, the type of straw you feed isn’t the most crucial part of the story.

“Oat, wheat or barley straw is all fine to feed,” she comments. “What matters is that we feed hygienic straw.”

What does this mean?

“Hygienic straw is bright yellow,” explains Clare. “It shouldn’t be grey, brownish or dark in hue or clump together, because that could indicate the presence of mould.

“We also want to ensure the straw is low in dust and doesn’t have any musty smell.”

Clare adds that ideally, the straw should not have been sprayed with any chemical.

“Some farmers spray the straw to dry it out, or use pesticides and herbicides on their crops,” remarks Clare. “Ask whoever you plan to source straw from if this is the case.”

With hay prices ballooning this year, many owners are looking for ways to reduce their hay bill. While feeding straw alongside hay can help, Clare urges owners to prioritise sourcing quality forage.

“When the supply is stretched, people can sometimes panic and buy anything they can,” says Clare. “But do go and check out any forage before you buy it.

“Or, if you can’t go in person, consider buying a small amount first to check the quality before placing a bigger order.”

Can you feed soaked straw?

If your dust-sensitive horse has soaked hay, then yes, you can feed soaked straw – but don’t soak it for long.

“About an hour is sufficient,” says Clare. “This is because straw can have a slightly higher bacterial load than hay.”

How much straw can I safely feed my horse?

You can safely replace up to 30% of your horse’s forage ration with straw, provided it is done gradually.

“Some people will say they can feed more, but nutritionists will advise 30% because that’s a safe, general guideline for every healthy horse or pony who is not prone to colic.”

You may also be interested in:

8 ways to reduce your hay bill this winter

New research confirms straw could be valuable weapon in fight against equine obesity 

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Know your forage: which type is right for your horse?

8 tips to help ease the transition to winter with horses

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Horse management never stops, and now the clocks have changed it’s worth recalibrating your inner winter equine illnesses barometer, so you are ahead of the game with problems to look out for.

While summer is all about fly sprays, hoof cracks and sweet itch prevention, winter, on the other hand, brings its own set of challenges.

Winter equine illnesses: be skin smart

Weather-related skin conditions tend to be more prevalent over the winter when fields become poached and muddy. While there are different schools of thought when it comes to dealing with muddy horses, excess washing can weaken and compromise the skin. Mud on the legs is normally best left to dry before being brushed off, if possible. Barrier creams and oils can be used as a barrier to help protect the skin from the wet.

H&H’s veterinary expert Karen Coumbe emphasises the importance of prevention.

“Mud fever and cellulitis are a huge problem for horses out in British winter mud, so anything that can be done to reduce the problem has got to be beneficial.

“The recommendations on responsible use of antimicrobials mean that vets are less likely to be able to readily dispense antibiotics, so prevention is better where possible,” she adds.

Rain scald is a bacterial infection that can develop when a horse is exposed to a lot of moisture. Rugs can help protect the horse from the inclement conditions, particularly if they have been clipped, but need to be removed daily to check the horse’s condition, including looking for early signs of skin problems. Common rain scald sites include the neck and back, and can occur under rugs if a horse becomes too hot and sweats, which can also cause rubs.

“We also see a higher occurrence of blackthorn injuries over winter,” says Lawrence Gill, who is the executive director of KBIS.

Blackthorns can penetrate soft tissues and lead to infection.

According to Francis Martin, CEO of The Insurance Emporium, it’s important for equestrians to choose insurance cover that meets their horse’s needs, and now is the perfect time to revisit this.

“We suggest policyholders look closely at what their policy covers them for,” he states. “Vet’s fees can feature as an optional added benefit, with standard policies typically covering equine death, theft, or straying.”

Be clued up on colic

Colic is a year-round equine illness, with impaction colic being a potentially fatal condition that needs to be on your winter watchlist. Impaction colic is often associated with changes in a horse’s diet, increased stabling, less movement and reduced water intake.

When the temperatures drop, check that your horse has plenty of fresh drinking water daily. If they live out, ensure you remove ice from their trough. If stabled with automatic waterers, it is wise to also provide buckets of water in case the automatic system freezes. Adding warm water to buckets may also encourage horses to drink and adding water to your horse’s hard feed can also help maintain hydration.

Monitor your horse for signs of reduced or dry droppings, as that could be an early indications of an impaction forming.

“Colic is often more common in stable kept horses,” Karen explains. “It is important to ensure they have a regular routine – especially for feeding – and that they do not eat their bed, which can result in unpleasant impactions or blockages.

“Worm control is also important, so make sure worm egg counts are part of preventative health care routines.”

Colic is listed as one of the most common conditions seen by The Insurance Emporium, with the average paid claim being £1,033.

“Colic once again led to the highest average claim payout, and was followed closely by digestive system conditions, such as gastric ulcers, at £911,” adds Francis.

In addition to colic, Karen warns that respiratory conditions are usually more prevalent in stabled horses.

“Stable coughs and equine asthma are a perennial issue in horses kept in, especially in dusty environments. Although there are many medical treatments available, proper dust control is essential – think dust free bedding, best possible ventilation, good quality hay and turn out.”

Look for sycamore seeds and saplings

Atypical myopathy is an often fatal illness caused by ingestion of the hypoglycin A toxin from affected sycamore seeds and saplings.

Karen advises that horse owners should remain alert for sycamore seeds in grazing areas, particularly in high seed years.

“Although it is possible to test trees for toxin levels, results can vary between trees in the same area,” she adds.

Sycamore poisoning is most likely to occur when horses are in sparse pastures, so ensuring your horse has access to plentiful supplementary forage is one way to reduce the ingestion of sycamore seeds and saplings.

Acorns are another issue, and with a bumper crop this year it’s important to clear them as often as you can or fence off areas around oak trees.

Winter equine illnesses: when to tell your insurance provider

“In an emergency, the client should always call the vet first,” advises Lawrence. “The welfare of the horse has to be the priority; horse owners should make decisions with their animal’s best interests at the forefront.

“Having said that, they should let their insurer know as soon as reasonably possible about any injury or illness. This is so the claims team can help guide them through the process and ensure that there are no barriers in place to getting claims settled, such as outstanding documents or further information being required.”

If your vet has advised your horse undergoes a diagnostic procedure, such as an MRI scan, it’s wise to inform your insurer in advance. These procedures aren’t always covered, and if they are most insurers want to know before your horse undergoes one.

Similarly, if it’s decided that your horse needs to be euthanised and you hope to claim on your equine mortality insurance, you’ll need to discuss with your insurance provider whether this decision complies with the BEVA mortality guidelines or not. It’s not always possible to do this in an emergency, but wherever possible it is best to notify insurers in advance in case there is a debate as to the best course of action. In most cases, insurers will require all treatment options to have been explored prior to a claim being considered.

• To stay up to date with all the breaking news from major shows throughout 2025, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

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Caring for your horses is about balance during the winter months. It’s about balancing time saving with providing the best care possible, balancing essential turnout with enforced stabling and, this year more than ever, balancing the books and reducing horse-related bills.

The winter transition with horses is tough and it can be a challenging time for owners, says Emmeline Hannelly, British Horse Society horse care and welfare education manager, who has some winter horse care tips to help.

“With careful planning and a flexible approach, however, it’s entirely possible to keep horses healthy, content, and safe through the colder months. We encourage owners to think ahead, balance routine with welfare, and adapt to conditions as they change.”

Winter horse care tips

1. Don’t skip the essential daily checks, no matter how much time you’re trying to save. Always give your horse once over and pick out his feet. Invest in a good head torch (like this one on Amazon) or solar-powered light (like this one) to help you do this if your horse lives out or you don’t have sufficient lighting in your stables.

2. Prioritise daily turnout for horses that are stabled. “Whenever possible, horses should have daily outdoor time,” says Emmeline, “as regular movement supports circulation, digestion, and mental wellbeing. If fields are wet or icy, turnout may need to be limited, with hand-walking or arena exercise as alternatives. Even short periods outside offer important stimulation and help reduce stiffness.”

3. If stabled, ensure your horse has access to forage and good ventilation, says Emmeline. “You should also implement gradual transitions between routines to help them adjust.”

4. Find ways to make your forage last longer – this is good for your horse’s digestion, keeps him entertained, but also helps you save money on hay.

“Feeding from hay feeders on hardstanding helps prevent deeper mud and wasted forage,” says Emmeline. If your horse is overweight, you can also vary how easily your horse can access forage, using slow feeders or small-holed haynets to slow their consumption rate. 

5. Monitor for signs of winter illnesses or winter skin conditions – sometimes they’re unavoidable, but catching them early can make them a lot more manageable. For example, using barrier cream to protect skin against wet and mud may help prevent a problem from taking hold in the first place.

Should there be a problem that needs the vet, will your equine insurance cover it? Take this chance to review your policy to make sure you’re covered for everything that you expect.

6. Choose the most appropriate type of clip for your horse. It may not be the same as last year, the same as his field-mate or the one that you really like the look of, but getting this right will make your winter easier and your horse more comfortable.

7. Avoid over-rugging – don’t fall into the trap of rugging your horse because you feel cold (horses do not feel the cold at the same point we do), instead decide which rug to put on your horse according to their needs, considering age, clip, condition and shelter provision.

8. Review your horse’s diet. If it’s been a while since you had a good think about what you’re feeding your horse, sense check whether he’s still getting everything he needs and that it’s all necessary. If you’re struggling to access hay this winter, consider using a forage replacer.

9. Adjust exercise plans to suit footing. “Ground conditions can quickly become slippery, frozen, or waterlogged,” explains Emmeline, who recommends opting for safer or indoor surfaces when needed to reduce risks of riding and exercising horses in winter. 

• For more expert horse care advice, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

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Management is a huge element of preparing horses for winter. Stocking up on winter feed and forage, regular perimeter checks of your turnout and choosing the right type of clip for your horse all factor in. With this in mind, it’s not just your horse in need of dedicated winter care. Actually, so does your kit.

“Preparing your horse for winter goes beyond adjusting feed and shelter – it’s about safeguarding everything that matters,” says Francis Martin, CEO of The Insurance Emporium. “Don’t forget to stay on top of fencing maintenance, especially after storms. Neglecting this could impact your insurance cover.”

Preparing horse kit for winter: inspect your tack

It’s vital to turn your attention to the valuable items you use every time you ride, too. While preparing your horse kit for winter, it’s the perfect time to inspect your tack and other gear for wear and tear.

“Saddlery and tack are often optional benefits on equine insurance policies, and insurers that offer tack insurance expect your tack to be well-maintained,” explains Francis.

Anthony Burnett, equine schemes underwriting specialist at SEIB, concurs: “With the busy competition season now finishing for many, any tack due to be put away for the winter should be in good condition and stored in a secure, clean and dry environment. At SEIB, accidental damage policies for tack do not cover damage caused by general wear and tear or neglect.

“To ensure efficient handling of claims for accidental damage to tack, the policyholder must notify us as soon as possible after any damage occurs.”

Be storage smart

Would-be thieves love the cover of darkness.

“As the nights draw in and yards become quieter, the risk of theft increases,” warns Francis. “Store your equipment securely, and ensure that storage meets your insurer’s yard security requirements.”

“Policyholders need to comply with security requirements for the peace of mind coverage brings,” adds Anthony.

Show your transport some love

If you use your trailer or horsebox less frequently in the winter, it needs a management plan.

“It’s important to maintain horsebox batteries, fluids and tyres throughout the year,” says Anthony. “But planning ahead for the winter months can play a key role.

“Simple jobs, such as using a trickle charger [like this one] to maintain the battery charge and checking coolant levels, help keep things running smoothly before the cold weather arrives. Failure to properly maintain a vehicle can impact the outcome should you need to make a claim.”

• To stay up to date with all the breaking news from major shows throughout the year, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

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Horse riding in winter can be glorious. Those crisp days with gorgeous golden light are a rider’s idea of a winter wonderland, but the elements can throw wet, icy and muddy curveballs in the way.

Owners who compete, trail hunt, have an equine rehab programme to follow or simply aren’t prepared to hang up their boots for a season, will be showing their dedication in order to continue riding through the winter. Continuing to exercise your horse daily may be key to their wellbeing if their turnout time has been reduced.

However, all too often horse riding in winter presents additional challenges. Many of these – shorter daylight hours, boggy ground and ice – represent an inconvenience at best. But when do wintry conditions transform into risk?

Risks of riding in winter

“Reduced daylight, icy surfaces, and wet or muddy terrain can all increase the likelihood of slips, trips, and falls – potentially leading to injuries for horse or rider,” says Francis Martin, CEO of Insurance Emporium.

The British Horse Society (BHS) advises being flexible when it comes to planning your rides.

“Ground conditions can quickly become slippery, frozen, or waterlogged,” says Emmeline Hannelly, BHS horse care and welfare education manager. “So, adjust exercise plans to suit footing, opting for safer or indoor surfaces when needed.”

Riders may also consider scaling back hacking to minimise risk, particularly when it’s icy.

“Choose familiar routes and remain vigilant for hidden hazards underfoot,” says Francis.

Fewer daylight hours aren’t the only issue. Reduced visibility from fog, rain and snow can occur at unexpected points in your ride.

“Both riders and horses should wear high-visibility and reflective clothing, and consider LED lighting to ensure they’re seen from all angles,” says Francis. “This isn’t just about rider safety; it’s about protecting other road users too.”

Check in with your insurance

Before you saddle up this winter, it’s worth reviewing your equine insurance policy to check what you’re covered for.

“Understanding your coverage ensures peace of mind, so you can focus on enjoying your time in the saddle, even in winter conditions,” adds Francis.

A basic equine insurance policy typically covers the horse for death, theft, or straying – also known as mortality insurance. Some policies also include vet’s fees and public liability as standard, but for others these are extras that you can bolt on to your basic policy, so it’s worth checking what your policy includes.

If you are helping to keep a friend’s horse exercised this winter, then a horse rider insurance policy could be worth investigating. These can include cover for emergency vet treatment for the horse, while it is in your care, and personal injury cover for the rider should you be injured.

Why do riders need public liability insurance?

Public liability insurance covers claims brought against you by a third party following property damage or bodily injury.

For equestrians, this means if someone is injured or their property is damaged by your horse in a public space in a manner within the terms of your policy, you are personally protected from costs payable to the third party (subject to any policy excess).

Your policy may also protect you if your horse caused damage after escaping from his paddock.

“While public liability insurance isn’t a legal requirement, it’s an important consideration,” remarks Francis. “Horses, no matter how well-trained, can behave unpredictably. Insurance could provide a safety net should the unexpected happen.”

Horse riding in winter: before you tack up

In winter, riders who have to stable their horses more because of livery yard rules or land that is unsuitable for turnout because it is waterlogged, can face increased risks.

Switching to a new stabling and turnout pattern can lead to undesirable behaviours caused by the horse being unable to move and express excess energy as it would during its summer routine that includes more time in the field.

“One of the biggest winter dilemmas is balancing turnout and stabling,” says Emmeline. “Keep transitions between routines gradual to help your horse adjust. Whenever possible, horses should have daily outdoor time, as regular movement supports circulation, digestion, and mental wellbeing.

“Icy or wet fields might limit turnout, with hand-walking or arena exercise as alternatives,” continues Emmeline. “Even short periods outside offer important stimulation and help reduce stiffness.”

Working with your horse from the floor, by using groundwork patterns, training in-hand, lungeing or long-reining can all give the horse a mental and physical workout when time is limited or the horse isn’t able to be ridden.

Frequent checks can help keep your turnout safe.

“Regularly inspect turnout areas for hazards and avoid overgrazing to protect the land. Feeding from hay feeders on hardstanding helps prevent deeper mud and wasted forage,” adds Emmeline.

• To stay up to date with all the breaking news from major shows throughout 2025, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

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The clocks going back signals a real period of change for horse owners – there’s no pretending any more, winter is here. There will undoubtedly be some differences you make to your riding and management at this time of year – some may be enforced by your yard, while others are well thought out and honed over years of horse ownership.

However, there may be some things that make life easier that you haven’t though of or tried yet – and there are some handy products available to help us out. Here are some ideas to help you make the transition a little smoother, whatever your set-up.

Tips for the winter transition with horses

1. Plan ahead and consider changes to your routine

Your routine will depend on work schedules and family commitments, yard restrictions and what works for your horse, so everyone’s will be different. You may have some flexibility that allows you to redistribute some riding and yard chores to different times of the day.

For me personally, while I do have access to an outdoor arena with lighting, I much prefer to hack. Luckily, I have room for flex in my daily routine that allows me to ride in the morning before work in winter, instead of after. In the mornings, I ride, put hay out and leave, and then sort haynets and do other jobs in the evening as I’ve got light from the barn – or I’d use a head torch. On any day that I don’t ride, I make sure I do a daylight barrow of poo picking instead.

2. Save time wherever you can

As my horse is on DIY livery, the only way I can fit in morning rides is by saving time and planning ahead for the week (which also helps to avoid too much riding in the rain). Of course, my horse doesn’t miss out on any daily essentials, such as having his feet picked out – don’t cut corners because this will cost you later – but if I can do things like make up extra haynets at the weekend I will.

Similarly, I try to be as efficient as possible wherever I can. For example, I put feeds on to soak as soon as I arrive at the yard, and by the time I’ve fetched everything in my barrow, the feed ready to go. For some people this efficiency comes naturally – and I’m not trying to teach you to suck eggs – but I see some liveries at my yard for hours, whereas I am in and out.

3. Invest in lighting

Your yard doesn’t have to resemble Blackpool illuminations – this could start with a head torch or portable light – but a little bit of light from a reliable source will make a lot of difference to the ease and safety of doing jobs in the dark. There are also options that will provide enough light for you to ride without installing something mains-powered. We’ve rounded up a selection of yard, stable and arena solar lighting to help you find something suitable.

A clip-on light (like this one) is something that I’m considering investing in this year – I’ll be able to clip it to the fence, gate, wheelbarrow or hay box while sorting my horse’s rugs in the field. I’ve been on yards without mains electricity and they’d have been handy there, too.

If you’re committed to a head torch, definitely get one that’s USB rechargeable so if you leave it in the car you can charge it on the way to the yard. Wide-angle head torches (like this one) offer good vision, but when close up to my horse I like the option of the red light (like you get on this head torch) as he’s much less squinty if I accidentally shine it towards his face.

4. Keep feed times consistent

While it can be a benefit to change up riding routines, it’s important to keep feed times as consistent as possible. I always put my horse’s hay out first thing in the morning and last thing in the evening – and he definitely expects that – so I try not to deviate too far away from this whether it’s weekday or weekend.

5. Manage the forage transition gradually

If you change the type of forage you feed – or go from predominantly grass to hay, for example – do this as gradually as you can. A rapid change from low dry matter content (grass) to high (hay) can give the good bacteria in the gut insufficient time to adapt, meaning they struggle to help digest the new type of forage.

This increases the risk of colic. Introducing small amounts of the new forage early, simply by putting a small amount of hay out in the field for example, and feeding a gut balancer at times of change can help.

6. Enrich the stable environment

Doing everything you can to make your stable an enriching environment will have a positive impact on your horse, especially if your horse’s turnout is reduced over winter. Using one of the best slow feeders or stable toys can help to reduce boredom and stress, and some extend your horse’s eating time, too, which helps to reduce the risk of gastric ulcers.

7. Ensure your fields are safe in lower light

What you need to do here really depends on your set-up, however there are some tips relevant to everyone. Consider using temporary electric fencing to section off an area by the gate. This keeps horses back, stops the area getting too muddy and allows you to get in with a wheelbarrow safely.

Turnout rugs with reflective elements are particularly handy in the winter as you’ll be able to quickly locate horses when you’d otherwise be unable to see them.

8. Don’t forget the hi-vis

Hi-vis and reflective kit isn’t just for riding. My yard is part of a working farm with access to a golf course and rented units running through the middle. While it’s mostly well lit, there’s a lot of traffic and hi-vis with LEDs wouldn’t go amiss. Woof Wear has released a new LED sash this year, which is ideal for leading your horse in low light.

H&H products editor Franchesca Slack puts a hi-vis with LEDs (like this one) on her young son, so that she can keep an eye on him and others can see him easily.

• What helpful tips on managing your horses after the clocks change would you like to share with fellow H&H readers? Send them to hhletters@futurenet.com, including your name, nearest town and county, for the chance for your advice to appear in a forthcoming issue of the magazine

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Feeding your horse during the winter can be a challenge and many horse owners will be looking at how to save money on hay and reduce bills this year. No-one wants to over pay for their horse’s hay or haylage, and this year, with the reduced hay yield and increased prices, this is more front of mind than ever. We asked the experts how to get the most out of your horse’s forage without compromising their health and performance.

Fibre is essential for healthy hindgut function and the process of digestion helps to keep the horse warm. It also supplies slow-release energy and reduces the risk of colic in horses, so it’s important to ensure we are feeding enough fibre to our horses while searching for ways to reduce unnecessary expensive wastage.

How to save money on hay

1. Avoid waste

It sounds obvious, but don’t waste forage, whether it’s by overfeeding, not supplying in a varied enough form or by not presenting it to your horse properly. Hannah Briars of Winergy suggests: “Bring horses in from the field to eat or provide a field rack to prevent hay being wasted through trampling.”

There are plenty of small-holed haynets and slow feeders and that will help reduce waste simply by keeping it tidy and off the ground. They can also protect the nutrientlevels from decreasing due to exposure to bad weather.

2. Make hay last longer

Horses need to eat around 1.5–2.5% of their bodyweight a day, and the majority of this should come from forage. However, some horses eat far more than they need to – and very quickly. If you’re giving extra hay purely to reduce the time they’re without, make use of small-holed haynets to reduce the speed your horse can eat at and make the same amount of hay last longer.

Here’s how to weigh your horse to ensure you’re feeding the right amount of hay.

3. Use different types of forage

Katie Williams, head of nutrition at Dengie Horse Feeds, says: “Research has shown that offering a variety of fibre types – hay, haylage, chopped fibre – keeps stabled horses happy and stimulated. Offering a bucket of chopped fibre, such as Hi-Fi Original, with carrots and apples is a great way of increasing fibre intake and encouraging them to forage.”

Lizzie Drury, senior nutritionist from Saracen Horse Feeds describes this as “cafeteria-style” feeding and goes further: “Try offering a net of hay, another of haylage, a bucket of chaff and sprinkle high-fibre cubes in a pile of hay on the floor.”

Used with caution, good-quality oat or barley straw accompanied by plenty of water — and a watchful eye to ensure droppings are regular — can be used to make hay or haylage go further, especially for good-doers. But it is not recommended for a horse with a fragile digestive system and can cause impaction colic, so if you’re unsure then discuss this plan with your vet before introducing it.

4. Consider hay replacers

Clare Barfoot of Spillers advises: “If you can’t find a reliable source of hay or haylage, hay replacers may be useful. These are chopped fibre-based products formulated to provide the same level of nutrition as hay or haylage and can be fed at up to 100% of the diet.

“Some contain vitamins and minerals, such as Spillers Happy Hoof, while others don’t, so it is worth checking with the manufacturer whether or not you need to add in a supplement.”

Hay replacers may appear expensive at first, but some are only designed to be a partial replacement. Our guide to the best hay replacers explains the differences and will help you identify a suitable option.

5. Investigate larger bales

Switching from traditional small bales, to larger bales of hay, could save you money in the long run. Unlike haylage, which will go off if not used quickly enough, big-bale hay will last and some merchants will wrap hay for clients if you need to store it outside.

6. Club together

If you do prefer to use haylage, clubbing together with other owners on your yard will help ensure you get through big-bale haylage fast enough to minimise wastage.

7. Buy from the field

If you can buy your hay straight from the field, and collect it yourself, this is likely to be is cheaper. The farmer may well give you a discount if you’re willing to save him the job of transporting it home.

Many farmers are prioritising loyal customers this year, but it’s worth trying if you’re able to transport.

8. Get your hay analysed

Hay and haylage don’t just differ in their moisture content; depending on the type and age of ley (mix of grass varieties) used, when it is cut (anything from May to late August) and the amount of time it “cures” before being baled, the nutritional value of your forage can vary, so it is worth getting it analysed so you know what you are feeding.

Once you have this information, speak to a nutritionist about your horse and you may find you can save money by reducing your horse’s hard feed.

You may also be interested in…

11 small-holed haynets and slow feeders to extend eating time and reduce wastage

21 full and partial hay replacers to help add more fibre to the diet

13 ways to save money on horse costs without compromising on care

9 ways to save money on your horse’s bills

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Horse & Hound magazine, out every Thursday, is packed with all the latest news and reports, as well as interviews, specials, nostalgia, vet and training advice. Find how you can enjoy the magazine delivered to your door every week, plus options to upgrade your subscription to access our online service that brings you breaking news and reports as well as other benefits.

The best horse trimmers are ideal for getting to the bits that even the best horse clippers can’t – they’re just what you need for finishing touches and quick tidy ups. Trimmers are all lightweight and easy to hold, which makes them great for manoeuvring into the trickier places. They’re also low noise and low vibration, which is really handy if you have a nervous horse or a horse that doesn’t like to be clipped, but also helps when you’re working around the head and ears.

Most of the best horse trimmers are battery powered, but there is a lot of variation between running and charging times. Some have a battery level or charge indicator, which is a handy feature to have. Most trimmers also offer a variety of cut length options and easy-to-change blades, but this is definitely worth checking before you make your final decision. Typically, the more features the handset has, the higher the price point.

Best trimmers: H&H’s quick guide

Best trimmers for blending: Wahl Admire

Best battery run time: Liveryman Nova

Best light weight trimmers: Clipperman Jewel

Best horse trimmers

It is quiet with low vibration and has a long run time that allows for multiple uses between charging. Comes with a disposable blade, four add-on comb attachments (3, 6, 9 and 12mm), charging lead, brush and oil.

Pocket Sized Trimmers 

If you are looking for a compact, pocket-sized trimmer for trimming awkward areas, especially round your horses head and ears and those fiddly finishing touches to details – or you just want to keep your horse neat and tidy between his clips – I’ve got a couple of ideal tools for the job.

These Liveryman Robin trimmers are a compact, pocket-sized, waterproof trimmer for precision and convenience. Perfect for use at home or shows, they fit comfortably in your hand, making it ideal for trimming delicate or awkward areas such as around the head and ears and even the heels of fine-coated horses. Its quiet operation with low vibrations makes it a reliable choice for nervous horses.

This is the lightest of the two pocket-sized trimmers I’ve featured in this guide. It is designed for precision and ease of use, particularly in hard-to-reach areas such as bridlepaths, above the eyes and under the horses jaw. Its compact, ergonomic design and soft-touch grip offer excellent control, while its small size makes it easy to conceal for nervous horses.

What is the difference between clippers and trimmers?

Horse clippers are powerful tools designed to run for longer periods of time effortlessly and remove the bulk of your horse’s body hair, while trimmers are much lighter and smaller than clippers, and are designed for precision work/tidying up delicate areas, such as the face, ears or jawline.

Trimmers are not designed for prolonged use but can be handy for blending or tidying up your lines for a show-ready finish.

When choosing between the two you need to consider your needs. For full or partial clips opt for a clipper, but for precision and detailed work a trimmer will work best. For nervous horses or if you’re regularly clipping feather, opt for a compact clipper like the Heiniger Opal Horse.

For many horse owners, they find the best combination is to have both a clipper and trimmer. By using both, they compliment each other and make the process more comfortable for both horse and owner.

Can you clip a horse with trimmers?

While some trimmers may be able to cope with tidying up a very fine coat, they are not designed to cope with a full clip and you will be much more successful with a set of clippers. Trimmers are best saved for trickier areas, such as bridle paths, blending around the face or tidying up feathers.

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How to clip a horse: a video masterclass

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Choosing from the best horse clippers to suit your needs will make the potentially arduous task of clipping quick and easy – and deliver a smart clip to make your horse the envy of his stablemates. There are so many options and a lot of technical information to sift through when it comes to choosing clippers, which can feel confusing, but in this guide I’ll help you work out exactly what to look for.

We’ve rounded up some of the best models from popular brands, and have loads of advice on how to choose the right clippers for you and your horse. If you’re looking to do smaller areas of tidying, however, check out this selection of the best horse trimmers.

Best horse clippers: H&H’s quick guide

Best mains powered clippers: Liveryman Black Beauty

Best battery powered clippers: Heiniger Xplorer Pro

Best clippers for nervous horses: Liveryman Harmony Plus

Best clippers for the one-horse owner: Lister Star

Best clippers for multiple horses: Masterclip Hunter

Best lightweight clippers: Lister Eclipse 2.0

How to choose the best horse clippers

Clippers are a real investment. When choosing a new handset you should consider…

• the size of your hands – will you be able to hold the handset comfortably for a long period of time?
• the amount of horses you need to clip, their hair type and personality – these will all affect the power you need
• access to power – do you have mains power or will you need a battery-operated handset?
• brand and clipper quality – choose a reputable brand and avoid options where the manufacturer is unclear
• price – battery-operated clippers tend to be the most expensive, and the price generally increases with the power

The main decisions you need to make are whether you need cordless or mains-powered clippers, and whether you would benefit most from light, medium or heavy duty. Not all clippers fit neatly into a category, but these descriptions offer some guidance…

• light-duty clippers – ideal for those with one or two short-haired horses
• medium-duty clippers – more powerful and durable than light-duty clippers, these are useful if you have up to five horses as they can handle feathers and most jobs well
• heavy-duty clippers – the best option if you have lots of horses to clip or have horses with particularly coarse or difficult hair

Mains-powered vs cordless clippers

Owning a set of cordless clippers is definitely convenient. There are no trailing power cables for your horse to potentially tread on, they can be lighter and easier to handle so better for clipping awkward and sensitive areas, plus they are good for remote yards without mains power or with limited power sockets. However, they are limited by their battery life and some need to be coupled with a heavy battery pack that may take a while to charge.

The benefit of mains-powered clippers is that they can run for as long as is needed (subject to short breaks to prevent the blades from getting hot) and don’t need to be recharged. You will have a power cable to contend with, but you’re less likely to be left with a half-clipped horse.

Should I wash my horse before clipping?

Yes, your horse should have a thorough wash before clipping. This helps to ensure maximum comfort for your horse, longevity of your clipper blades and it will also leave a better finish. You could also hot cloth your horse post clip to help remove loose hairs and oil remaining on top of the skin.

How do I maintain my clippers?

To ensure your clippers last well…

• oil regularly every 5–10 minutes with clipper oil
• set the tension correctly following manufacturer advice
• keep the clipper and filter clean
• use the correct blade type for the application

Why won’t my clipper blades cut?

There are a number of reasons why the blades may not be cutting, including…

• they may be blunt and need sharpening
• they may have been incorrectly sharpened
• the clippers may not have been tensioned correctly
• the blades may not have been oiled as frequently as recommended

When is the best time to clip a horse?

You should clip your horse as soon as his growing winter coat starts to get in the way of his work. If he’s sweating more than he was, then it’s time to take it off. You can then keep on top of it throughout the winter – some horses need going over more often than others. There is debate about when you should do your last clip before the spring, but the general, traditional view is that clipping should be avoided after the end of January.

What clip is best for my horse?

There are lots of different types of clip. Your horse’s management, including workload, rug availability, and whether he’s stabled at all will determine the best clip for him.

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£379

Constant exposure to muddy, wet conditions weakens the skin’s natural defensive barrier, so applying one of the best barrier creams for mud to the legs can help to add some much needed strength. Creating a strong barrier can protect your horse from bacteria that cause nasty skin conditions, such as mud fever.

Barrier creams for mud come in a range of forms, including creams, ointments and powders. When choosing these products, I looked for formulas that allow the skin to breathe and won’t be easily washed off by the rain. I also included a selection made with natural products that are likely to be more suitable for horses with sensitive skin.

Best barrier creams for mud

Can barrier creams treat mud fever?

Barrier creams can not treat mud fever – if you suspect your horse has it, you should call your vet for advice – but they can help to protect your horse in the first place by creating a barrier where your horse is most vulnerable. Some types of turnout boots and chaps can help, too – check out a selection of the best turnout boots here.

How to apply barrier creams

Each product will have slightly different directions for use – and these should always be followed. Most will require you to clean and dry the area you plan to protect before application. Reapplication will be necessary to ensure the barrier remains, but how regularly you’ll need to do this will vary.

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5 of the best turnout boots to tackle the mud

Struggling with mud fever? Here’s what you need to know to tackle it…

The Horse & Hound Podcast: episode 25 – Sarah Bullimore | Mud fever | News round-up

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For those without mains power, the best solar lights for stables and arenas offer an excellent solution for the winter months. How often have you arrived at the yard only to realise you’ve misplaced your headtorch or it’s out of charge? If you’re like me, it’s far too often – and while headtorches are handy for changing rugs and smaller jobs, some tasks just need more light.

Investing in the best solar lighting for your needs will make life easier throughout winter. These systems are environmentally friendly, easy to install, and free to operate. Solar-powered arena lights are an ideal solution for exercising your horse during the winter, ensuring your training continues even when you can’t ride within daylight hours.

Best solar lights for stables and around the yard

SolarMate Hubi Hub Work 16

Brightness: 300 lumens

Warranty: 2 years for hub, 10 years for solar panel

H&H Rating: 10/10, H&H Approved

Reasons to buy

• Fully expandable
• Two USB power outlets

Reasons to avoid

• If you are looking to light a larger area see the Hubi Work 64

This is the ideal setup for one stable, but also gives you the option of adding more lights at a later stage if needed with this expansion kit.

The system is made up of a single LED strip (that can be added to), hub and solar panel. The single strip as sold lights up to 16m² and it charges in around 4–5 hours dependent on weather conditions. It also has two USB power outlets so that you can use it as a power bank.

We tested the Hubi Hub 16 and rated it H&H Approved. Our tester used it in a remote and awkward site, found it easy to install and liked how it could be expanded as your needs grow.

Read H&H’s independent Hubi Hub 16 review.

Apollo Solar LED Batten

Brightness: 2,500 lumens

Warranty: 3 years on parts, 1 year on battery

Reasons to buy

• Suitable for indoor or outdoor use
• Perfect substitute for conventional fluorescent lights
• Long run time

Reasons to avoid

• Separate solar panel might not suit your needs

This single light setup has in-built motion sensor and separate solar panel with a 5m cable. It can be controlled via a remote or wired wall switch, and is suitable for both indoor and outdoor use. With a full charge, this light will power for eight hours. It’s a great investment if you are after a bright light in your stable that has a long run time.

Flare Solar Brick

Brightness: 900 lumens

Warranty: 5 years on LED, 1 year on battery

Reasons to buy

• Easy to set up
• Ideal for use above doors, walkways, small yards and gateways

Reasons to avoid

• If you are looking to light a large area

These lights would be handy to have around the yard or walkways. They are easy to install and have two automatic modes. The brock includes 35 LEDs and motion sensor with detection distance of 6m.

SolarMate Hubi Work 64

Brightness : 300 lumens

Warranty: 2 years for hub, 10 years for solar panel

Reasons to buy

• No specialist tools or knowledge needed to install
• Can be used as power bank
• Battery level indicator

Reasons to avoid

• If you are looking for a smaller setup see the Hubi Work 16

This setup is perfect if you have more than one stable or a large barn to light as it provides bright, even lighting across indoor areas up to 64m². It includes four high-efficiency LED light strips, a hub and solar panel, and can provide one to two hours of light during the winter and up to seven hours at other times of the year. You can purchase an expansion pack to add extra solar power and LED strip lights if needed.

Dancingboar Rechargeable LED Work Light

Brightness: 2,000 lumens

Reasons to buy

• Good battery life
• Can be used as a power bank
• Portable
• Bright
• 4 lighting modes
• Inexpensive

Reasons to avoid

• No warranty

This portable light would be ideal if your horses live out – with its magnetic base you could stick it on your gate to carry out rug checks, for example. It could also come in handy while you are away at stay away shows or camps.

The main advantages are that it is portable, lightweight and compact, and has a handy battery level indicator. It has four light modes, a magnetic base and can also be used as a power bank to charge your phone. With a full charge, this light will power for five hours.

Helios Solar Floodlight

Brightness level: 4,800 lumens

Warranty: 5 years for LED , 1 year for battery

Reasons to buy

• Can be used inside or outside
• Several settings
• Remote control operation
• Bright light

Reasons to avoid

• If you are after a light with a built-in solar panel

This is the brightest stable light in this guide, boasting an impressive 4,800 lumens output. It’s a versatile floodlight with several settings and is programmed via remote. The solar panel can be mounted up to 5m away, and it is suitable for indoor and outdoor use.

This light is perfect for use in a barn or stable yard. It could be used in an arena, but there are other options available with built-in solar panels that are less bulky.

Best solar lights for arenas

SolarMate Arena 2K Floodlight

Brightness: 2,000 lumens

Warranty: 2 years

Reasons to buy

• Good warranty
• Can purchase a solar panel to extend run time
• Remote controlled

Reasons to avoid

• Costly if you want to fit out your arena

This weatherproof floodlight covers 300m² with solar cell and internal battery pack – you’ll need six lights to illuminate a 40x30m arena. It has motion-activation and timed modes, and you can add supercharge solar panels to extend the light’s nightly run time by up to six times.

Mini Saber Solar Floodlight

Brightness level: 1,600 lumens

Warranty: 5 years for LED, 1 year on battery

Reasons to buy

• Ideal for smaller areas
• Weatherproof

Reasons to avoid

• If you are looking for a more powerful light see Saber Solar Arena

This self-sufficient, automatic lighting solution with a remote is ideal for areas up to 15m², and it has a detection distance of 8–12m. This light would be great for smaller yards, gateways and arenas.

Equisafety Solar LED

Brightness: 800 lumens

Reasons to buy

• Versatile – flexible mounting options
• USB charging option

Reasons to avoid

• Costly if you need to light a large area

This light is super handy and would be great to take out to the field and clip on a fence or gate. have to hand in an emergency and can also offer extra lighting in your arena.

It’s waterproof and and can be clipped various objects to mount, which gives it great portability. It can be charged via solar panels or USB. For a 20x40m arena, you’d need 16 units to ensure uniform lighting throughout.

Saber Solar Arena Floodlight

Brightness level: 4,800 lumens

Warranty: 5 years on LED, 1 year on battery

Reasons to buy

• Very bright
• Choice of lighting modes

Reasons to avoid

• Initial outlay is costly if using in an arena

These lights would be costly to fit out your arena but they are bright boasting 4,800 lumens output – you would need six of these units to light a 20x60m arena. They are ideal for those on small yards with limited riders as they are not able to run for long periods of time over consecutive days.

These powerful floodlights have built-in solar panel and asymmetrical beam angle for optimum coverage, plus a detection distance of 8–12m. When fully charged it will run for approximately two hours at full output.

SyouHome Solar Street Lights

Brightness: 2,000 lumens

Reasons to buy

• 3 lighting modes with remote control
• Waterproof and durable
• Great value

Reasons to avoid

• No warranty

These enhanced outdoor solar lights will provide lighting of up to 2,000 lumens, with three lighting modes and a remote control for convenient use. It has a powerful and waterproof design to withstand the outdoors. These look great if you have a tight budget but looking for bright lights for your arena.

Benefits of solar powered lights

Solar power is a greener alternative to traditional lighting. Whether you’re trying to reduce your carbon footprint, cut down your electricity bill or don’t have access to mains power, solar lighting is a reliable and safe option. These lights generally require very little wiring and are virtually maintenance free as most of the lighting components have a long lifespan.

How to choose solar lights

Lighting serves a functional purpose, so consider the tasks you’ll be performing under them – is it mucking out, making feeds, changing rugs, turning out, picking out feet, or riding? The amount of light needed for each task will vary; for riding, brightness is crucial.

Pay close attention to the lumens, which indicate the brightness of the output; higher lumen values mean brighter light. We have listed lumen information where available for each product.

What are lumens?

Lumens are a measure of the total amount of visible light (to the human eye) from a source, with a higher lumen count indicating a brighter light.

Do I need planning permission for solar powered arena lights?

Generally, planning permission isn’t required for battery-powered, outdoor-rated lights since they are considered portable and not hard-wired. However, local light pollution regulations could apply. Solar-powered options are often viewed more favourably. It’s always advisable to consult your local authority for specific guidance.

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With many of us struggling with the winter weather, H&H shares some reminders of why owning horses during the winter is great

We love winter because…

1. It’s an ideal time to focus on training or getting to know a new horse. Even if you can’t ride, time spent hanging out or learning new exercises and techniques with your horse on the ground can pay back in spades when you get back in the saddle. And if you’re lucky enough to have facilities that mean you can ride, you can work on improving your horse’s skills and techniques ready for the forthcoming competition season.

2. There are few things better than a ride on a bright, sunny winter morning when you can see your breath… and while hacking in the wind and rain may make you question your sanity, returning home to a hot bath filled to the brim with bubbles makes it all worthwhile.

3. There is immense satisfaction in seeing your freshly clipped horse tucking into his haynet while wrapped up in his rugs and standing in an immaculate deep bed. (It may not stay immaculate for long, but it’s nice while it lasts!)

4. If you’re of the matchy-matchy fraternity and your horse is clipped, the addition of an exercise sheet gives you another opportunity to colour co-ordinate your and your horse’s outfits. And an excuse to shop too.

5, Indoor showjumping and dressage shows mean you can still get out and compete (most of the time), plus you can treat yourself to a hot drink and cheesy chips while waiting between classes

6. Or if you’re competing less during the winter, the money you’re saving can go towards this year’s entry fees, (if your horse isn’t eating his way through it, that is – and yes we mean that in the most literal sense).

7. And of course winter is the time for hunting and jump racing. Two great exhilarating equestrian sports that everyone can enjoy either as a participant or a spectator.

But we have to admit we don’t enjoy…

The mud: on horses, on rugs, on everything, on you. And that’s before we get started on the topic of mud fever… It’s the bane of many a horse owner’s life during the wet winter months.

Even worse than the mud is the snow and ice, which can bring hunting, jump racing, indoor competitions and even hacking to a standstill for weeks on end.

Ice is also responsible for causing us to burn our skin when breaking and removing ice from water buckets/troughs. Useful tip: don’t use bare hands or rubber gloves (they are bound to have a hole in). Carefully break the ice with a large hammer, then use a colander to scoop the ice out but leave the water behind.

And frozen fingers make simple tasks like tacking up difficult, while for those who ride in double reins, distinguishing the snaffle from the curb becomes extra challenging.

Clearing snow from outside your horse’s stable and across the yard, so it doesn’t turn into an ice rink leaving your horse stable-bound for days on end, is another task we could do without. Useful tip: make sure you’ve stocked up on rock salt before the weather changes. Or if you do get caught out, muck out directly on to the yard to give horses grip, but this does make a big mess that needs cleaning up later.

• What are your favourite things and pet hates about having horses during the winter months? Let us know at hhletters@futurenet.com, including your name, nearest town and county, for the chance to have your thoughts published in a future edition of Horse & Hound magazine
• To stay up to date with all the breaking news from major shows throughout 2025, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

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Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

We don’t mean to nag, but here are a few chores that, in an ideal world, you’ll put on your to-do list for this month...

1. Clip your horse, then service your clippers

It is said: “Clipping a horse in February is a really bad idea, as his summer coat will be starting to make an appearance and you’ll just go and ruin it by chopping off the tip of it.” However, that is widely disputed as an old wives’ tale — we’ll leave the final decision to you. Either way, once your clipping duties for the season are complete, don’t put the used blades away, only to get them out again in October and realise they’re completely blunt. Send them away to be sharpened now, and consider getting the clippers serviced while you’re at it.

2. Clear out, clean up and cash in

Let’s face it, we all have stuff we don’t need:

➤ The broken headcollar at the bottom of a trunk in the tackroom “just in case” it comes in handy one day — that day will never come

➤ Rugs that are no longer waterproof — reproof them or sling them out

➤ Stirrup leathers that have come unstitched — fix them or ditch them

➤ Take items you no longer need to the second-hand shop, car boot sale or sell them online

➤ Ensure your summer rugs are washed and repaired in preparation for use in a few months. There’s wishful thinking!

3. Get geeky, get organised

This is a fun chore. Really. Invest in a calendar, plan out your season and pin it in the tack room. Get your competition hopes pencilled in, because if horses get wind of a championship they will throw a shoe at least. Mark on your lessons, too. This is truly motivational stuff. Book the farrier, schedule your horse’s vaccinations and set reminders to do worm counts. You’ll feel super organised.

4. Tend to your muddy gateways

Not quite so much fun, but your horse’s pasterns will thank you. Keeping your field gateways as dry as possible will help to fend off mud fever and thrush. Putting hardcore down prevents poaching, but recycling old shavings makes an economical temporary alternative. You could try using electric fence to protect the gateway, although this may move the poached area a few metres back and exacerbate the problem. If you have an ongoing problem, seek professional advice in time for next year.

• To stay up to date with all the breaking news from major shows throughout 2025, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

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We’re all looking looking to keep our horses happy and healthy while making our lives easier, so find out how

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

As we all know, the British winter weather can be capricious – tipping down with rain one day, blustery snow the next, not to mention some gale force winds, just to spice things up a bit. But there’s something deeply satisfying about braving the elements to take your horse out. And you never know, you might even get a bit of sunshine.

Chances are you’ll experience all or most of the following though…

1. The world has turned to mud

Your usually leafy green bridlepaths now resemble the banks of the river Nile during flood season. All they need is a few wallowing hippos. Your horse is a dead ringer for one anyway by the time you’ve returned to the yard, with legs and belly dripping with the brown stuff.

2. Where can you go for a good blast?

The tracks have been too hard to canter on all summer, now they’re too slippery and slushy – that or they’ve turned to icy rock. You can’t win!

3. Your feet are cold. So cold.

You’re wearing three pairs of welly socks and you still can’t feel your toes. You’re pretty sure this means you’ve got actual frostbite. Eek.

4. You can’t find your gloves

You’re sure you left your favourite pair of winter riding gloves in your coat pocket, but there’s only one in there now. And another in your tack box but – weirdly – it’s the same hand. Why does this always happen? It’s freaky.

5. There are horse-killing pheasants everywhere

Forget cascading red leaves and crisp frosty days, you really know it’s autumn/winter when the roads are covered with squashed pheasant carcasses, or the live versions are exploding out of the hedges or grass just inches in front of you. Your horse is convinced they’re out to get him, and you can understand why, as you slip an extra finger inside your neckstrap.

6. Getting ready takes forever

By the time you and your trusty steed are wrapped up and ready to go, in brushing boots, over-reach boots, exercise sheet, and high-vis on every available surface (and that’s just your horse), it’s pretty much time to untack and head home.

7. What – it’s dark already?

Like, how is 3.30pm an acceptable time for dusk to draw in? You’ve barely finished lunch! But leave it any later, and you’ll be trying to navigate your way home by the light of the moon.

8. But it’s really gorgeous out there!

No, seriously. On a perfect winter’s day, when everything seems brighter and crisper than usual, and it’s you and your horse – maybe some mates as well – making your way across a frosty landscape, you could actually imagine someone taking your photo and using it as a Christmas card.

• To stay up to date with all the breaking news throughout London International and more, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

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Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

Who doesn’t like a nice cup – or bucket – of tea, especially in weather as cold as this? And donkeys are no different, it appears.

The equine residents of The Donkey Sanctuary in Sidmouth have been sharing an afternoon bucket of herbal tea this week, as snow covered the Devon landscape.

“Although the site has been closed to visitors yesterday [21 November] and today because of the heavy snow, dedicated staff are there to ensure the donkeys have all they need to withstand the cold weather,” a spokesperson for the charity said.

“Donkeys are not naturally suited to freezing, damp conditions having evolved in parts of the world where the environment is hot and arid. Making sure they have adequate shelter, hardstanding and plenty of dry hay, is very important to keep them healthy and well during winter.

“Like many of us when the temperature plummets, they enjoy a warm brew.”

The sanctuary is continually coming up with enrichment activities for the donkeys such as this, or ice lollies in summer.

“Donkeys enjoy warming herbal teas on chilly winter days, often lining up eagerly for the first sip,” the spokesperson told H&H.

“These drinks not only warm them up and provide enrichment, but also help keep them hydrated, especially when cold weather may make their regular cold water less appealing.

“The refreshing drinks are prepared with hot (not boiling) water, allowing the teabags to steep briefly before being removed. Grooms then always add cold water to ensure the drink is at a safe, comfortable temperature for the donkeys to enjoy.”

• To stay up to date with all the breaking news throughout major shows such as London International and more, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

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Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

If you’ve ever been the proud owner of a post and rail fence, you’ll know that as the weather starts to turn some horses embrace their inner beaver and start chewing any wood in sight.

Wood chewing is a common issue, and it can damage not only your fencing and stabling but also your horse’s well-being. It can also be an indicator that all might not be right with your horse’s diet or routine.

To help keep your horse in top condition, and to keep those fences picture-perfect, we’ve created this comprehensive guide about wood chewing…

Why is my horse chewing wood?

Horses chew wood for a variety of reasons, but it’s most commonly a behavioural response born out of boredom or a coping mechanism to deal with stress.

Research shows that wood chewing correlates strongly with the amount of time a horse is stabled and the amount of long-stem forage available. When horses are stabled or their grazing is restricted, they’re unable to perform species-appropriate behaviours.

Horses are grazing animals and have an instinctive need to be chewing. They’re not only doing this to consume food. Horses are looking to ingest long-stem fibre and produce saliva to help neutralise stomach acid.

Unlike humans, horses are continuously secreting stomach acid. Prolonged periods without producing saliva can lead to issues like gastric ulcers. That’s why if horses don’t have access to long-stem fibrous forage, they’ll start to chew on something else.

If horses spend a lot of time in their stable, they cannot move around and interact with other horses as they’d naturally do. A lack of social interaction can lead to increased stress levels and boredom. Chronic stress and boredom have both been shown to lead to vices like wood chewing.

Over the winter it can be much harder to ensure regular turnout and good grazing, which is why wood chewing is often associated with cold, wet weather. But even if your horse is having to stay in more, there are things you can do to stop them chewing wood.

How to stop my horse chewing wood?

It’s important to catch wood chewing early because once the behaviour becomes established it’s much more difficult to stop.

The first step to preventing wood chewing is to review your horse’s management. Ensure your horse is getting adequate turnout, with good grazing and company. If your grazing is restricted over winter, replacing some of that need for movement through frequent exercise may help.

Studies have shown that horses in exercise are less prone to chewing wood. As long as you wrap up warm and avoid overtraining, nice long hacks with other horses are an invaluable addition to your winter routine.

You should also provide more long-stem forage, like hay. Increasing your horse’s access to forage enables them to engage in more natural grazing behaviours. Using multiple hay nets or slow feeder boxes helps to regulate intake and allows the horse to trickle feed as they would in the field.

If feeding more forage isn’t possible, boredom busters that dispense high-fibre food help to mimic foraging behaviours. Horse-safe toys will also help to stave off boredom and keep your horse occupied.

Wood chewing deterrents

If you’ve made all the management changes you can and your horse is still chewing wood, it might be time to explore deterrents. The most popular deterrents are products that are sprayed or wiped onto wooden surfaces to make them taste unpleasant.

Although wood chewing and crib-biting, or windsucking, are not the same behaviour, the deterrents used to prevent them are often the same.

Topical deterrents, such as Cribox (which is available on Viovet), are the most cost-effective way to prevent wood chewing, but it’s important to ensure that it’s safe for horses to consume and that you follow the instructions provided.

Chew guards on stable doors, or metal panels on ledges, physically prevent horses from chewing wood but can be expensive to install. Likewise, electric taping running along the top of fencing in the field can stop horses from getting to the wood.

If you have any areas that cannot be taped, such as upright posts in a field shelter, corrugated drain pipes can be wrapped around them as long as they are safe and secure.

However, it’s important to bear in mind that restricting a horse’s access to wood won’t necessarily address the underlying cause of the behaviour and should be balanced with good management practices.

• To stay up to date with all the breaking news throughout London International and more, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

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12 warm heavyweight turnouts for the winter

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When temperatures plummet, breaking ice in water buckets and troughs can be a thankless task. We investigate how to stop water buckets freezing, so that your horse always has a supply available to him…

How to stop water buckets freezing

1. “Use rubber buckets as opposed to metal or plastic ones as rubber is a good insulator and will slow down the rate of freezing. We use the rubber TubTrug ones [like these on Amazon] and they are great — the bigger the bucket the better as it is less likely to freeze,” says Jess Errington, head girl to Harry Meade.

2. Think about the positioning of your water buckets. Placing them inside field shelters or in front of hedgerows provides a layer of insulation and will slow the water’s cooling rate and therefore delay any freezing. If the buckets are outside ensure they are situated in a place that will catch any sunlight in the daytime (if there is any!) so the water gets as much warmth as possible.

3. “Putting your bucket in a rubber tyre will help slow down the rate of freezing as will banking any bedding around the bucket in the stable. You can also sit your water bucket inside a larger bucket and then use straw or shavings to line the space between the two buckets for insulation,” adds Jess.

4. If you are using multiple buckets in a field or shelter, place them close to each other. Horses often group together to drink so this will raise the area’s temperature and slow the freezing rate.

5. Another useful tip is to fill a plastic bottle with water and a cup of salt before putting the lid on and placing it in the water bucket. The salt will prevent the water inside the bottle from freezing and the bottle will float in the water which will stop the water in the bucket from icing over.

6. “We have a water trough that the horses don’t have access to but we use to refill any buckets so we always cover that at night to save having to break the ice the next morning,” concludes Jess. “If buckets or troughs do freeze, don’t just break the ice and leave it to float in the water, take out any chunks so the water takes longer to refreeze.”

In the USA and Canada where temperatures are more extreme than in the UK there are several ways to prevent water buckets from freezing. In colder climates it is also important to have measures in place for any water taps and pipes.

7. “Heated water buckets [which are available on Amazon] — where the heater is in a sealed compartment at the bottom of the plastic bucket, so no shock can transfer — that can hang on the wall are really useful but you need to fully enclose the metal coated cord in the wall so that the horse or any rodents can’t chew it.

You also need to check heated buckets more regularly and ensure they always have water in,” explains Jay Jay Rogers, who owns Gloucester Downs Equestrian Park in British Columbia in Canada where temperatures can hit -10c in the winter.

8. Placing a piece of wood or a well-sealed plastic jug filled with rock salt in each water barrel won’t necessarily stop it icing over but is a good tip to stop the water from freezing so hard that it breaks the barrel.

9. “Wrapping all exposed pipes with foam [like this] and silver reflective blankets [like these] helps to prevent them from freezing but I find horses tear it off if I put it around their bucket or barrel,” says Jay Jay, who has also insulated and heated the area where all her pipes meet.

10. Installing hot water tanks in your barn and hanging hoses in heated rooms ensures you always have access to water to fill up any water buckets, regardless of the temperature.

“Colic is common in horses that can’t intake enough water, which is why I try to offer warm water in the cold weather,” says Jay Jay.

11. “Leaving a trickle of water running from the tap down into a drainpipe underground in the really cold weather is a good idea as running water rarely freezes,” Jay Jay adds.

12. “Back up power is a necessity for us so we have three generators that we use to keep water and water heaters running in power outages,” reveals Jay Jay. “We also have a self-draining standpipe as back up if everything else freezes up.”

• For unlimited access to advice on how best to care for your horse, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

You may also be interested in:

13 hacks and tips to make winter horse care easier

8 ways to reduce your hay bill this winter

Can goldfish help keep my horse’s water trough clean? H&H investigates…

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We’re making our way into the British winter and if you’re a normal citizen, that might mean indulging in cosy nights by the fire, a fashionable cold weather wardrobe and copious amounts of festive Starbucks coffee (NB: other brands are available, Ed). But if you’ve got a horse (or seven), the cold months require at least the the same amount of dedicated horsing hours as during the summer, if not more.

Even though you said in July, “I’ll be ready this year”, here are six things we always forget happen during winter at the yard…

1. The darkness

Gone are the days of 6pm hacks or evening lessons. If you want to get your training in this winter so you don’t fall behind come next season, that means early starts catching the morning rays before work. At present, it gets light at around 7am so you need to be tacked up and ready to hit the road or arena early doors if you also need to be ready to start work at 9am. I’m tired already…

2. The cold

No matter how many years you muck out in winter, the first morning on the yard when it’s below freezing will still knock you for six. You still haven’t found the best winter yard gloves to see you through the next six months and you’ll spend the same part of the year up at night worrying if you’ve aptly rugged your horse for the protection against the elements. He’ll probably be fine, but your frozen fingers probably won’t.

3. The mud

Snow/ice/sleet/rain + grass = a muddy disaster. Hosing and drying legs is a foreign concept in the summer, but come winter most field outings will conclude in a dramatic battle with a frozen hose pipe and dancing legs. While you promise this year you’re going to let your horse go au naturel, turnout boots and mudguard creams may become weekly purchases in the attempt to protect against the ravages of the dreaded brown stuff.

4. The lack of human contact

Your other half will have probably forgotten what you look like by Christmas, given the creature-like habits you develop during winter. Up before sunrise and home well after darkness, you become an elusive nocturnal being seen slopping around in the murky night. At least you have your like-minded yard buddies to keep you (relatively) sane.

5. The winter fixtures

If your horse has been hitting the circuit in one discipline over the summer, it can be fun to mix up their winter outings. Fun being the operative word. Hunting and arena eventing are popular choices for many, but early motivation may be quick to fade when you realise you haven’t jumped a cross pole in months and have forgotten how see a stride…

6. The festivities

Halloween, bonfire night, Christmas followed by New Year; winter time is filled with multiple celebrations. But for the horse owner — while decorating stables and tuning into Christmas songs on the yard radio are absolute musts — the festive period brings with it an array of stresses for both horse and human, including fireworks and your farrier going AWOL for a few weeks. Not to mention the cash flow dilemmas.

• To stay up to date with all the breaking news throughout Pau, London International and more, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

You may also be interested in:

16 useful tips to help horses cope with fireworks

17 rug hacks to transform your winter

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Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

Heaving wet rugs across the yard and attempting to dry them in freezing conditions can prompt a flurry of expletives. But is there an easier way? We ask you for your secrets on winter rug hacks…

1. “Keeping coats and manes clean and generously covered in mane and tail conditioner seems to prevent rubbing of manes and shoulders when horses wear more rugs. I use Rambo rugs because they are a great fit — especially round the front — and are good quality, lasting a long time. I tend to put a thin summer sheet on under the rugs, because they are easy to chuck in the washing machine and it means the heavier rugs don’t get greasy and don’t need washing so often” — grand prix dressage rider Matt Burnett

2. “Buy a pack of lamb castration rubber rings to put on the ‘T’ clips on cross-surcingles so they won’t come undone” — international dressage rider and trainer Stef Eardley from Gloucestershire

3. “The best rug dryer for a turnout rug that is wet but not soaked through is the horse that wears it! Just leave it on in the stable overnight and it will be dry in the morning and not hang round the yard damp for days.

“Keep cable ties and bailing twine handy for impromptu repairs on rugs in an emergency — you can cable tie a leg strap to its clip if it breaks and use a spare trigger clip and bailing twine as a leg strap.

“Get your rug mender to make you spare leg straps with a loop at one end and clip on the other, so you can swap them when broken” — Wolverhampton vet and racehorse trainer Sue Taylor

4. “Thin plastic tube over the fillet string means you can wipe them clean. Gaffer tape is a good emergency solution for rug rips — it’s waterproof and will hold the rip together for a day or so until you can get it repaired. I’ve found the best rugs are Rambo, Rhino and Weatherbeeta — they never leak and last for years. Bossy’s Bibs are excellent at preventing rug rubs on fine-skinned or clipped horses” — Musselburgh-based Sarah Hawes, who enjoys hacking and unaffiliated dressage

5. “I keep some denim iron-on repair patches handy for rug tears. Ease the patch inside the tear with the adhesive side up, place the tear neatly over the patch so that edges are as close as possible, place a cloth over the area being mended, hold the iron down over the cloth for the designated time and the result is a neat repair.

“Another tip is using dental floss to sew up tears and patches in rugs — it’s strong, waterproof and easy to sew through thick rug materials” — June Craig, dressage rider from Scotland

6. “If they come in with their rugs plastered in mud, leave the rug on and hose the mud off. Rugs dry quicker clean than with mud on” — Catherine Foley, West Midlands

7. “If you’re struggling for somewhere to hang wet and muddy rugs, buy a piece of PVC downpipe from your local DIY store and slot it over a piece of wood or baling twine and then hang it from the beams of the stable or barn using more baling twine. Simply throw your rugs over when wet and then slide them off easily when dry” — event rider Rosemary Myers from Derbyshire

8. “I buy carabiner snap clips to use on leg straps when their clips break. They are cheap and easy to fit.

“I use Shires Typhoon rugs on my four horses all winter in New Zealand; we get pretty cold weather and they have stayed dry and comfy with no rubs” — Denise Bancroft from New Zealand

9. “If you do wash your own rugs, only use non-biological washing powder as biological ruins the waterproofing as I found out to my expense this year. Even after a professional reproof they still weren’t waterproof!” — Jill Hancock from Chesterfield

10. “Wash rugs in a wheelie bin. It uses much less water and you can do several rinses quickly in one go. You can also plonk a child in there to stomp on the rugs to get the job done quicker. Rugs are washed and child is entertained!” — East Sussex-based Joanna Hartland, enjoys eventing, hunting and hacking

11. “Put WD40 on your leg strap clips and buckles occasionally as this not only helps repel water, but also keeps them moving freely. I compete in Trec and use turnout Snuggy Hoods the night before a competition and when away at events, as the horses stay in corrals. They come in lots of sizes, so you can get a really good fit, which makes it difficult for the horse to get them off in the field” — Sarah Thurnell from Derbyshire

12. “I put small plastic tags on the front fasteners of my rugs so I know they are mine. I use the tiny plastic tags on a metal loop that have a bit of paper that slots in behind a film. I simply write my horse’s name on the tag and there are no more arguments about whose rugs are whose” — Jade Turner from Lincolnshire

13. “Unless my turnout rugs are really, really bad, I don’t wash them every year. I just dry them out, brush the mud off and store them until next season. I used to wash them every season no matter what, but they’re never the same. They lose waterproofness” — Catherine Dickie from East Ayrshire, Scotland enjoys hacking

14. “If you’ve got wet, muddy rugs that need shifting across the yard, simply place them in a wheelbarrow rather than carrying them yourself. Saves you getting plastered in mud” — Michelle Scott BHS ISM is an accredited professional coach from Cheshire who enjoys dressage

15. “If your horse’s shoulders are prone to being rubbed by their rugs, line the shoulders with pure silk. I buy cheap offcuts from the haberdashery or silk scarves from charity shops and sew patches into the shoulders of the rug. The only stipulation is that they must be 100% silk otherwise it doesn’t work” — Laurel Hoare, pleasure rider from Cheshire

16. “Never throw old rugs away. Cut the buckles and straps off dead ones to patch up new rugs. We buy old duvets from charity shops as under-rugs which are so much cheaper than a heavyweight stable rug and just as warm” — Virginia Rider from Kent, who shows ex-racehorses

17. “I swear by Mark Todd rugs. I have a 23-year-old mare who lives out, so rugs have been important. For colder, wet weather, I’ve found the Mark Todd medium and heavy full-neck rugs are amazing quality, well designed, are fantastic waterproof-wise and a comfortable fit, especially the neck design. So many others rub the mane, but not these” — Teresa Lock from Devon

• To stay up to date with all the breaking news throughout Horse of the Year Show, London International and more, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

You may also be interested in:

How to wash your horse’s rugs at home – and what’s best to use

How to reproof your turnout rugs at home – and help them stay waterproof for longer

Which rug should I put on my horse? H&H’s helpful guide to help you decide

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Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

When the rain is driving down and you’re sliding through mud to catch your horse, who is wearing a drenched turnout rug, it’s easy to question why it was such a good idea to own a horse at all. But with our five tips for staying sane in the rain, miserable winter weather can be a little bit more bearable.

1. Prepare your gateways

Taking action sooner rather than later is your best bet when it comes to not spending all winter dealing with excessively poached gateways, but if it’s already too late for that, there are things you can do to fix muddy gateways in horse paddocks. Options include laying down hardcore or field mats designed to prevent poaching (like these ones on Amazon) in the gate area. A cheaper option is to use electric fencing to section off the gateway so horses don’t always wait in the same area.

2. Invest in a plastic hay feeder

A lot of hay is wasted in muddy fields, as it gets trampled. Purchasing a weatherproof hay feeder, hay ball (like this one on Viovet), or if your horses are not shod, a bale net (also on Viovet) will help to prevent hay wastage and damage to pasture.

3. Check for rain scald

If your horse is not rugged up, keep an eye on their skin to check they are not suffering from rain scald. If they are susceptible to the condition, prevent it by using a suitable weight rug and ensuring there is a field shelter or natural shelter so that they can escape the rain.

4. Make a plan for drying rugs

Establish a drying area with rug racks (available on Amazon) for soaked rugs and make the most of any sun we do get to air them. Many owners will leave turnout rugs on their horses when they come in, as long as the water has not leached through to the inside, allowing the horse’s natural warmth to aid the drying process. Or invest in a dedicated rug drier to dry your rugs for you.

5. Use your time wisely

Talking of rugs, ‘rainy days’ are a good opportunity to clean your horse rugs from the summer, mending any damage as needed, as well as giving your tack a thorough clean and tidying your tack room.

• To stay up to date with all the breaking news throughout Horse of the Year Show, London International and more, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

You may also be interested in:

9 winter riding coats we’ve tried, tested and awarded H&H Approved status

A challenge to fair-weather riders: relish the rain (and stay dry)

Getting ready takes forever — and 7 other things you’d forgotten about winter riding

6 things to consider before travelling in the dark with your horse this winter

If you are going to get out and about with your horse this winter, you are likely to be loading

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Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

As parts of Britain have been battling with heavy rain, some UK horse owners have dug out their turnout rugs for the first time in a while and been reminded of some of the downsides of saying goodbye to summer...

1. Pulling off a sopping wet turnout rug off your horse and somehow wrapping yourself up in it like a cold, annoyed, living mummy in the process.

2. Trying to hang said soaking wet rug up while mud (at least you hope it’s mud) and water (at least you hope it’s water) drips all over you.

3. Noticing the amount of poo caked on the fillet string/tail flap/rear leg straps. Yeah, that’s nice.

4. Wishing like mad that you had a heated rug drier — the height of luxury! As it is, there are few places where you can spread out a heavy, wet six foot rug and realistically expect it to get dry.

5. Why won’t the blasted thing dry? Two days later, and it’s still as wet as when you took it off, but now it smells damp and stale, too.

6. At this point, someone always helpfully points out that, ‘If you leave it on the horse, it dries much quicker.’ Thanks for that.

7. That distinctive wet rug smell. Wet horse, mould and poo. Delightful.

8. If you’re not worrying when it’s blowing a gale and tipping down with ice-cold rain that your horse is too cold, and will be even colder if the rug somehow blows off…

9. Then you’re worrying that your horse is over-rugged and may be sweating.

10. How effective was that re-proofing done when you took it to be cleaned? You’re not convinced…

11. Trying to untwist surcingles/rear leg straps and fasten buckles with freezing cold fingers. Why is this so hard?

12. Your horse’s proud face as he trots up to you in the field with the neck/surcingle/front fastenings torn off and the rest of the rug flapping in the breeze. “I’ve been working on this all night, Mum”

There’s only one thing for it – you need to buy another rug…

If so, check these out:

A pick of the best lightweight turnouts for changeable weather

Best medium weight turnout rugs for chillier days

12 warm heavyweight turnouts for the winter

How to make your horse’s rugs last longer with these useful DIY repair tips

How to wash your horse’s rugs at home – and what’s best to use

How to reproof your turnout rugs at home – and help them stay waterproof for longer

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

• To stay up to date with all the breaking news throughout Horse of the Year Show, London International and more, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

There are some things that only horse owners know when it comes to snow...

1. Sledges are multi-purpose — as well as being great for tobogganing, they are excellent for transporting hay and water out to fields in deep snow.

2. A pep talk is needed to psych yourself up to fill a water bucket. No matter how well you insulate and wrap up your taps, you will still need to spend significant time with a kettle defrosting them each morning.

3. If you tip your frozen water bucket over to get the ice out, it will stay stuck fast however much you whack it, until you position it just over the gap between your welly boots and leg, at which point the whole chunk of ice will fly out closely followed by the rest of the remaining cold water.

4. Should the above happen, you will not have spare socks in the car.

5. The most basic horse care task seems to takes at least twice as long when there is snow on the ground. Is it even possible to do up/undo a rug in these temperatures?

6. Snow that lands on the track leading up to the yard defrosts at a rate approximately 200 times slower than snow that lands on any other surface.

7. You will be absolutely fine driving your car into the yard.

8. You will not be absolutely fine trying to drive it back out again.

9. If you have an automatic… No chance.

10. You have a 4X4? We’re jealous.

11. The horse that kicks the door down demanding to get out in the snow “are you crazy, owner, why would you imprison me?” will, on realisation there is no grass accessible, immediately demand to be brought back in again… “are you crazy, owner, why on earth would you put me in a field with no grass in it?”.

12. He will then scare the life out of you galloping round the field while you ask Siri to call the vet.

13. However many times you turn your ankle over on the rutty hard ground by the field entrance that is disguised under the snow, you will go over on the exact same spot each time you cross it.

14. Forks, shovels, rocks, grenades — none of these things will penetrate the top of the water trough in the field for a good 10 minutes of trying.

15. You will feel rather smug having got your full wheelbarrow to the muck heap, only for it to dive into a rock hard rut one metre away and eject its contents adjacent to the muck heap… And it will be an unsuitable distance to get away with not having to reload the barrow and try that manoeuvre again.

16. As you walk away, horses tucked up in their stables or bathing in the sun, light glistening off the pristine snow-lined trees, you’ll say “it does look quite beautiful, doesn’t it”…

• What lessons have you learnt from caring for your horses in the snow? Let us know at hhletters@futurenet.com including your name, nearest town and county for the chance to be published on the letter page in a future issue of Horse & Hound magazine

You may also be interested in…

How to stop water buckets freezing: 12 top tips to help prevent this issue

Riding on snow: is it safe?

27 postcard-worthy photos of your horses frolicking in the snow

The pipes are frozen, you need some sort of industrial digger to break the ice on the trough and you

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Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

Usually each winter, the UK is covered with snow and ice at some point, and riders tend to give their horses time off work or keep them in stables if it is too icy for turn-out.

Steel shoes are lethally slippery on ice, and snow sticks to the metal, building up into snowballs so it looks like the horse is on stilts, which can cause the horse to trip and injure itself.

Yet many other places in the world are covered with snow and ice through much of the winter, and still, people keep on riding. H&H investigates how…

Amy Feineman, a trainer in Colorado, told us that all her horses go barefoot in the winter.

“They shed snow best that way,” she explained. “Our farrier even took pads off my one shod horse to give her better snow clearing.”

Barefoot horses don’t get snowballs, which makes sense if you think of mustangs in the snowy American west, or Przewalski’s horses in Mongolia.

However, not every horse can go barefoot and not every rider wants to. And while unshod horses don’t accumulate snowballs, barefoot provides very little traction on ice.

The western states like Colorado don’t get long term accumulations of ice on roads and paths, but the states in the Midwest and on the East Coast often do.

Chelsea Shield-Mas, a dressage rider in New York, said: “I use ice studs in New York — no snow pads as my horse has bar shoes behind and my farrier was concerned about pads being paired with those shoes.”

There are two different types of pads. One is a pad that covers the entire sole of the hoof, with a ball in the middle, often called a bubble pad. It is the most effective pad for getting rid of snowballs, but as with any full pad, it increases the risk of thrush because it prevents the exposure of the sole to the air and traps mud and dirt underneath.

When I lived in the United States, I used rim pads, a rubber tube riveted between the horseshoe and the foot that went round the edge of the shoe. According to The American Farrier’s Journal: “A full pad of any kind will eventually fill up with mud or sand, but the rim style No-Sno pad will leave the bottom of the hoof open and keep the hoof healthy. This pad will not have any negative effect in muddy conditions but will still be there when it snows again.”

The tube of the rim pad, combined with the frog, pushes the snow out of the hoof. The downside is that it’s not as effective at getting rid of snowballs as the bubble pads.

Jenna Calcaterra, a Virginia-based eventer who used to live in Massachusetts, preferred the full pads, saying: “The rim pads always got snow wedged under them.”

Rim pads and bubble pads provide some traction on snow, but where there is hard ice, you need studs of some sort. The most commonly used is borium, a substance containing hard steel which the farrier welds to the shoe. It impedes the natural lateral rotation of the limb on hard, dry surfaces, which can lead to lameness, so it’s best used in places where the snow and ice is likely to stick around for the majority of the winter.

Similarly, some riders and farriers opt for snow and ice nails, which are more or less normal horse shoe nails, but they extend beyond the plane of the shoe and have a hardened head. If all you’re doing is walking from the yard to the indoor arena or paddock, this may be enough. However, like any horseshoe nail, they wear out before the end of the shoeing cycle, and someone spending a lot of time hacking will find borium longer lasting.

Another option are screw-in studs, like the ones eventers and showjumpers use. These can (and should) be removed when the horse isn’t ridden or if it’s being ridden indoors but can be added if the rider knows they’re crossing icy ground. It means the horse doesn’t wear a traction device when it doesn’t need to, which is healthier for its limbs (and for its turn-out companions), but it requires the rider to take time maintaining the holes and screwing in the studs.

Shoeing horses for traction on ice isn’t entirely foreign to the UK. In the winter of 1788, the poet Robert Burns was riding through Wanlockhead, a village that sits at 467m of altitude in the Southern Uplands of Scotland, and found his horse sliding on the ice. Burns tried to persuade John Taylor, “man of influence” in the village, to convince the local farrier to add caulks to his horse’s shoes so Burns could ride instead of walk. In payment for his assistance, Burns wrote Taylor this poem:

H&H recommends that you communicate with your farrier to find the method that best suits your horse or pony.

You might also enjoy reading… 

16 things that only people with horses know about snow

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You want your horse to be warm and cosy in their winter rug with a neck cover, but many horse owners have discovered an aggravating downside to this — it rubs off all or part of the mane. However, there are plenty of methods for preserving them, so owners can figure out whatever works best for them and their horses. Here we explain how to stop mane rubbing on rugs.

Horse & Hound spoke to Sarah Shears, an international competition groom and a member of the British Grooms Association. She says: “In my experience the main reason that manes get rubbed away in the winter is because of either badly fitting rugs, or dirty neck covers. The grease then rubs off the rug back onto the mane and pulls the hair out as the horse moves their head.”

Sarah continues: “To help combat this, try and keep the mane washed as much as possible in the winter. Alternatively, if it’s too cold to wash your horse, use a water brush with warm water and a tiny drop of shampoo to help keep the grease down. It also helps to use duvets under your rug instead of heavy neck rugs and always try and use a detachable neck cover on your stable or turnout rug so it can easily be washed.”

Holly Askew, a horse owner from Manchester, says: “If the horse doesn’t need a full clip, I don’t use a neck.” This is by far, the simplest solution for an unclipped horse, especially furry natives. Holly adds: “If I have to I will attach a no fill neck to whatever rug I need, which is taken off at night.”

For horses with a long mane, keeping it in individual plaits prevents it from being rubbed off. It’s a slightly strange look and requires faff to maintain, but it’s effective.

If you don’t want to wash your horse’s mane, if it’s not long enough to plait, and if you need a neck, it seems as though different makes and types of rugs can reduce rubbing. However, horse owners disagree on which ones, so it probably depends on the horse and the rug.

How to stop mane rubbing on rugs: more tips

One user of the Horse & Hound forums agrees with Sarah that detachable necks rubbed less than permanently attached ones, but several more posters disagreed, writing that in their experience, detachable necks were more problematic. A user who says she hunts regularly, and therefore needs to be able to plait her horse’s manes, finds she has had good results with the Bossy Bib mane guard. However, someone else says this method didn’t work for them at all.

Shoulder guards and hoods for horses are also available, which could help to prevent your horse’s mane being rubbed.

International eventer Lucinda Green tells us: “Here’s the advert for Horsware Rambo rugs and necks — we have no rubbed manes and they all live in necks and turn out rugs 24/7.”

Other manufacturers owners have had luck with include Horseware Rugs, which only have a half-neck, and Mark Todd rugs. Whatever the manufacturer, the general consensus is that lighter covers cause less damage, so if possible, attach a lightweight or medium-weight neck cover to a heavy weight rug, and if you can get away without a neck cover at all, that solves the problem.

Other how to stop mane rubbing on rugs tips include spraying mane and tail detangler on the mane while the horse is wearing a rug with a neck, or to try rubbing coconut oil into the affected area, which reportedly helps regrowth and prevents initial rubbing.

7 hoods that will protect your grooming efforts

10 stable rugs your horse will thank you for

A pick of the best lightweight turnouts for changeable weather

12 things you’d forgotten about turnout rugs (until recently…)

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Horse & Hound magazine, out every Thursday, is packed with all the latest news and reports, as well as interviews, specials, nostalgia, vet and training advice. Find how you can enjoy the magazine delivered to your door every week, plus options to upgrade your subscription to access our online service that brings you breaking news and reports as well as other benefits.

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

When it comes winter horsecare, there are few people more experienced than Alan Davies, who managed Carl Hester and Charlotte Dujardin’s top horses for over a decade.

“It’s something I get asked about quite a lot, and it can be tricky,” says Alan, on episode 15 of The Horse & Hound podcast. “You really have to think about changing their management completely.”

To help keep your horse in top condition over winter, we’ve rounded up his top tips below…

1. Winter horsecare: change their feed regime

Many of Carl and Charlotte’s horses live out all year round.

“Carl likes his horses to be as natural as possible get their heads down, stretch their legs, stretch their backs, and be horses,” explains Alan. “Obviously, that can start to be a bit limited as the weather turns. We’re right by a river so the turnout can also get very wet.

“If the amount of time they’re going out in the field changes, then you need to start thinking about changing their feed regime. They’re going to need more hay if they’re coming in and standing in their stable more. I like to give them a net when they’re in so they can trickle feed, and graze like they’re naturally supposed to do.

“We might also have to give them a little more bulk and forage in their feed, so they take longer to eat their hard feed, and don’t wolf it down.”

2. If they’re coming in – absolutely no wet legs

When managing horses over winter, prevention is always better than cure when it comes to mud fever and other related ailments, explains Alan.

“If your horse’s legs need to be washed – which generally ours do because when they’re being exercised they have boots and bandages on – I like them to be washed when they come in. But I’m a real stickler about drying their legs, I can’t bear wet legs on horses!

“I have a massive pile of old towels, anyone that’s throwing out old towels has to give them to me, and then we stockpile them in the tack room so that each horse can have its legs dried with a clean, dry towel.

“I dry their bellies too, I’ll even rub their tails and right down the back of the legs, so there’s absolutely no dripping, which one irritates the horse, and two can ferment and cause all sorts of problems.”

3. Get your rugging right

When we’re starting to feel the cold ourselves, it can be really tempting to chuck a load of rugs on our horse. However, if your horse isn’t clipped, they will naturally grow a thick, winter coat, so it’s important when managing horses over winter to not over-rug.

“Really keep an eye on their temperatures, and keep a thermometer handy,” says Alan.

If you’re unsure about how to take your horse’s temperature, we’ve put together an easy-to-follow guide.

4. Make sure they’re getting enough fluids

“It sounds weird talking about fluid intake going into winter, but it does change, and that’s when they can get ill,” emphasises Alan. “If they’re in, having more dry feed than normal, they need to top up their fluids.”

Some horses might also prefer to drink from the trough in the field, so if they’re in more, they might be drinking less.

“Freestyle (Charlotte’s former grand prix ride) loved to take a great big drink from the water trough when she went out in the field. So I used to give her a bucket, as well as her water drinker so that she could have a good old slurp from that as well.

“You need to know each individual horse, what they like and what they don’t like, and what their fluid intake is like on a normal day.”

5. Stable management is key over winter

If your horse is spending longer periods in the stable over winter, that environment needs to be enriching for them.

“I used to give Valegro three buckets in his stable when we were away at competitions because he’s such a dunker – he loves to dunk his hay and grass,” says Alan. “He had one bucket to dunk, one to drink, and then a fresh one ready for him if he’d ruined the other two buckets!

“So just keep an eye, and make sure you really know your horse.”

You might also be interested in:

Alan Davies stepping back from role as ‘super-groom’ to Carl Hester and Charlotte Dujardin

‘I sobbed all the way up the centre line’: Alan Davies’ highlights from his time as Valegro’s super-groom

12 warm heavyweight turnouts for the winter

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Horse & Hound magazine, out every Thursday, is packed with all the latest news and reports, as well as interviews, specials, nostalgia, vet and training advice. Find how you can enjoy the magazine delivered to your door every week, plus options to upgrade your subscription to access our online service that brings you breaking news and reports as well as other benefits.

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

With UK temperatures fluctuating, you might now be looking to dig out a thinner rug or possibly give your horse an extra layer. But is it really the best thing to do? Not necessarily, according to equine experts. Here are nine things to consider when assessing whether your horse is feeling cold – and if you’re still unsure, check out our horse rugging temperature guide.

1. Horses have a wide thermoneutral zone

A horse feels cold when the weather creates temperatures below 0°C. They feel hot when it reaches 25°C. The area between these two is the horse’s thermoneutral zone.

2. This zone is huge compared to ours

Humans have a much narrower thermoneutral zone of between 25 and 30°C. So when we think it’s cold outside, horses still feel comfortable, which is why we shouldn’t judge adding a rug by how cold we are.

3. Eating keeps them warm

A horse’s core body temperature is 38°C and thermoregulation — fuelled by energy stored in food the horse eats — helps maintain it. Heat is generated by breakdown of food either inside the cells of the body or by fermentation of fibre within the hindgut.

4. Rugging unnecessarily leads to weight gain

Horses use a considerable amount of energy to keep warm and so, if he is too heavily rugged, excess energy will be deposited as fat.

5. They hold heat better than we do

Due to their fur coats, horses will not lose body heat as rapidly as we do. They lose heat from the skin surface, through breath, faeces and urine, and through contact with colder surfaces, such as the ground.

6. Equines are designed to cope with the cold

When the temperature drops below 0°C, the horse keeps heat in by an increased metabolic rate. He will also seek shelter, his blood flow will decrease to let his limb temperature drop and, if it gets really cold, he’ll start shivering.

7. Keeping warm is a balancing act

Body temperature is a balance between heat produced and lost. In the cold, the horse loses heat more rapidly and must increase heat production and/or decrease heat loss to maintain temperature.

8. Don’t judge how warm they are by the ears

Feeling your horse’s ears, face or legs is a poor indicator of how warm they are. Instead place your hand inside the rug behind the withers. If it feels cold, consider an extra rug. If it’s damp, he’s probably too warm.

9. So in conclusion…

Most horses will not need rugging until temperatures dip to 5-10°C. Older, younger, thinner or clipped horses will need rugs sooner.

You might also be interested in:

Which rug should I put on my horse? H&H’s helpful guide to help you decide

12 rain sheets/no-fill turnouts to protect your horse from showers

A pick of the best lightweight turnouts for changeable weather

Best medium weight turnout rugs for chillier days

12 warm heavyweight turnouts for the winter

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Horse & Hound magazine, out every Thursday, is packed with all the latest news and reports, as well as interviews, specials, nostalgia, vet and training advice. Find how you can enjoy the magazine delivered to your door every week, plus options to upgrade your subscription to access our online service that brings you breaking news and reports as well as other benefits. 

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

The depths of winter are nearly upon us. Your hardy horse lives out all year round without a care in the world, saving you a fortune on livery bills and mucking out… But what do they really think about it?

1. Look at those thoroughbreds all shuffling around at the gate waiting to go inside. Wimps! All the more grass for us. This is so much better than being stuck in a box all night long.

2. Buuuurgh. It’s a bit chillier now… Mum I need more layers. I’m coooold. Please take me in? Someone? Anyone? It’s dark…

3. Oh this is a nice new rug I’ve got on today. ‘Look at me everyone!’ I think I’ll roll right in this muddy puddle beside the fence. Oops I think I heard a tear. Errrr. That was not meant to happen…

4. It’s raining… *Charge to the field shelter* Budge over. Let me in. LET ME IN. Please?

5. I see a light! Who is coming to see me? I smell food… I think I see a bucket… My human loves me. (And right now I love my human).

6. What is that white stuff falling from the sky? Wowwwwweeeee. Errr. Wait. Hold on. It’s taking over now. Where has the lovely tasty green grass gone? Help! Are we all going to starve?

7. We’re OK. I see hay. It’s being guarded by a group of Welsh ponies… I think we can get in there guys. Let’s just tip toe round them and they won’t see us at the other side. Nooo they’ve spotted us. Run. For. It.

8. It’s morning. Whoopee! Our friends are coming back. Look at them — they look as excited as us. Why is that human shouting at them? Why does one still have that rope attached to it while he’s cantering round? Never mind… It’s play time. *Bucks*

You might also be interested in:

12 things you’d forgotten about turnout rugs (until recently…)

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Horse & Hound magazine, out every Thursday, is packed with all the latest news and reports, as well as interviews, specials, nostalgia, vet and training advice. Find how you can enjoy the magazine delivered to your door every week, plus options to upgrade your subscription to access our online service that brings you breaking news and reports as well as other benefits.

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

With the falling of both leaves and temperatures comes woolly coats — and the return of the clipping season. While there’s nothing more satisfying than a neatly-clipped horse, all velvet smooth and ready to work without working up a sweat, getting to that point isn’t always plain sailing...

Mechanical issues

Clipper maintenance is essential, of course, and you could swear you put your favourite horse clippers away clean and oiled after the final clip of the season months ago. So how it is when you dig out that little plastic carrying case, what lies inside is suspiciously hair-encrusted? And why is there an ominous whine and stink of overheating when you finally get them going?

Mud monster moment

After getting your clippers back following a service — the bill for which makes you feel faint — it’s time to prep Prancer for his conversion from furry bear to sleek superstar. Trouble is, Prancer has been taking an advanced course in Rug Destruction And Removal and has finally graduated with full honours; when you fetch him in from the field, the latest victim is a sad little heap of tatters on the ground and Prancer is wearing what can only be described as a Full Mud Jacket.

To be blunt about it…

It’s taken 12 hours for the mud crust to dry sufficiently for you to begin the filthy job of brushing it back off again. An hour later, and with your face and general upper body area resembling a miner emerging from a shift down t’pit, you’re ready to get clipping. Extension lead sorted and clipper oil applied, Prancer stands patiently while you begin what feels oddly like clipping a shag pile rug with a pair of nail scissors. It’s not until Prancer gets cross enough to stand on your foot for the third time that you realise the blades have helpfully gone blunt during their summer holiday.

Blurred lines

Another eye-watering bill later for express blade sharpening and you’re ready to finish what you started. Thankfully, trussing Prancer up in a rug that is the equivalent of an equine straightjacket means the prep job isn’t quite as bad this time, and you’re soon confidently removing large swathes of hair. Unfortunately, Prancer hasn’t quite forgotten the first attempt’s tug-and-nip sensation courtesy of the blunt blades and this time he decides to live up to his name. The first go at tracing a neat line isn’t too bad, but getting the other hind leg to match is more challenging and you suddenly understand what is meant when people say “you can’t stick it back on again”.

Seven-hour itch

It seemed like a good idea to clip Prancer first thing in the morning, and you cleverly made sure you dressed in the equivalent to a biohazard suit to avoid hair reaching every nook and cranny. But despite your best efforts, it’s soon apparent there was a breach in your defences and you’re itching and scratching like a flea-infested mutt. By the end of what feels like the longest day ever, you can’t wait to get home and shower. It’s just unfortunate that your other half chooses the precise moment you’re undressing to walk in and witness what must rate as the least attractive sight since you were sick in front of him on your second date after a dodgy kebab. Apparently it is possible to “stick it back on”, just so long as you’re sticking it to your chest. Who knew?

You might also be interested in:

Best horse clippers for taming every type of winter coat

8 trimmers for tidying, blending and finishing touches

How to clip a horse: a video masterclass

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Horse & Hound magazine, out every Thursday, is packed with all the latest news and reports, as well as interviews, specials, nostalgia, vet and training advice. Find how you can enjoy the magazine delivered to your door every week, plus options to upgrade your subscription to access our online service that brings you breaking news and reports as well as other benefits.

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

Does your horse live out happily all summer, but you worry when the nights close in and the wind picks up that he might not fare so well? Or are you itching to clip, but don’t want to while he’s living out 24/7? These are just a few considerations to take into account when trying to decide when – or if – to bring your horse in at night during winter, so we asked the experts for their opinions.

World Horse Welfare’s UK Support Officer, Tanya Element, says: “Knowing your horse is the key factor here and, as with any time of the year, it is about assessing your horse’s behaviour and condition. Each horse is different, so monitor your horse daily and if they start to look tucked up or if their winter coat isn’t coming through as much as it should, then this would signal it being a good time to bring your horse inside overnight.”

Vet Karen Coumbe agrees it depends on the type of animal, but also the facilities you have available.

“If you have shelter in the field, a decent amount of grazing and not too much mud, a horse carrying sufficient condition and wearing a suitable waterproof rug when needed will be better off out than in — even if it’s really windy and raining,” she says.

Tanya concurs: “Of course not everyone has stabling, or you may prefer your horse to live out as much as possible, in which case you can rug your horse if they start to show signs that they are not coping with the weather.

“You can also consider if additional feed is required. If there is not much grazing out in the field, or if you start to stable your horse, make sure you give them appropriate amounts of additional forage.”

Better off out than in?

Most owners anthropomorphize when it comes to our horses — we’d be happier in, so wouldn’t they be, too? Karen thinks not, pointing out: “Even an older horse will benefit from being outside and moving around — fresh air is better than a dusty stable.”

“If your horse has a nice winter coat, enough grazing or forage, and they seem to be happy living out, you can continue with your daily routine,” Tanya adds. “It is very dependent on the conditions that he or she is living out in. If the weather is consistently wet, and your paddock starts to become poached, then you could bring your horse in to give the field some rest.”

Karen agrees: “If your grazing becomes poor, your horse lacks condition, or you do not have decent waterproof rugs — and assuming you do have a suitable stable — the horse would be better off coming in at night then standing in mud 24/7.”

Knowing your horse

Weighing up all these factors, your intentions for the horse over the winter, whether you plan to clip, and what facilities you have available, will help you make the right decision on when to bring your horse in at night.

H&H hunting editor Catherine Austen brings her horses in as soon as they are clipped [in October], whereas H&H magazine’s features editor Martha Terry counters: “My eventer went out following the last event of the season until January — she was as tough as old boots.”

“It’s all about watching for a change in your horse — as you normally would — and keeping an eye on the weather,” says Tanya. “If you become particularly worried about your horse’s condition, we would always recommend you contact your vet for advice.”

You might also be interested in:

Does your horse really need to wear a rug?

Which rug should I put on my horse? H&H’s helpful guide to help you decide

Rug dilemmas: how can you make sure your horse is the ideal temperature?

The dilemma of which winter rug to put on your horse is one with which we are all familiar, so

Types of rugs – your horse’s full wardrobe explained

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Horse & Hound magazine, out every Thursday, is packed with all the latest news and reports, as well as interviews, specials, nostalgia, vet and training advice. Find how you can enjoy the magazine delivered to your door every week, plus options to upgrade your subscription to access our online service that brings you breaking news and reports as well as other benefits.

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

The cost of living crisis is hitting everyone across the UK and we’d all like to know how to reduce vet bills for our horses – without compromising their welfare.

Veterinary care is expensive and new horse owners don’t always fully factor in these costs. It is better to work with your vet to plan your horse’s healthcare than to call the vet only when something goes wrong, which can mean expensive treatment that could have been avoided.

Cancelling or cutting back on horse insurance – or dipping into your emergency fund for routine bills – could prove a very expensive mistake, so make sure you do keep your rainy day provisions in place.

Routine vet care essential to reducing vet bills for horses

All owners should ensure horses receive routine veterinary care; cutting corners here is a false economy which compromises welfare and can lead to larger vet bills for horses in the long run. Horses are stoic creatures and often hide pain until it is serious, but detecting issues early can mean less expensive treatments are sufficient, and horses often have a greater chance of recovery.

Preventative medicine includes equine vaccinations, dentistry and testing for worms and your vet practice may be able to offer a check-up or MOT alongside this care, to spot other issues before they become serious. Preventative care also helps minimise drug resistance to wormers and antibiotics, so treatment can be targeted better and we avoid unnecessary use of drugs, which is a serious ongoing problem in the horse world and beyond.

Veterinary practices may also provide discounted healthcare packages, combining vaccinations and dentistry and offering add-ones such as worm egg counts and blood tests.

By putting in place good preventative measures, your horse will hopefully enjoy good health and you will enjoy low vet bills. Don’t let that make you complacent and relax your routine healthcare, though, as inevitably that will be when disaster will strike.

Zone visits and yard discounts

Many vet practices offer zone visits, where vets concentrate non-emergency calls in a set area on a particular day of the week. Some practices also offer yard discounts, where multiple horses are seen in one visit. Do ask your practice whether these are available.

Old friends – and the final decision

When owners need to cut costs, they sometimes curtail veterinary care for older, retired horses and ponies, but these equines need as much healthcare as any horse, sometimes more. If you cannot afford suitable care for a retired horse, the responsible thing to do is to give him a humane end and have him put down.

Equine euthanasia is a difficult subject, but all owners should have enough money saved for this eventuality. Costs vary according to the method, plus there will be a fee for disposal of the body.

Have a chat with your vet about options at a time when there is no pressing need for that conversation – it is better to have decided what you want to do in advance than to have to make difficult choices (and worry about costs) in an upsetting emergency situation.

You might also be interested in:

Turnout and stable rug options if you’re shopping on a budget

Rising costs – and vet bills – the top concerns for horse owners

No horse, short of cash, desperate to ride? Check out these ideas for ways to ride on a budget

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Horse & Hound magazine, out every Thursday, is packed with all the latest news and reports, as well as interviews, specials, nostalgia, vet and training advice. Find how you can enjoy the magazine delivered to your door every week, plus options to upgrade your subscription to access our online service that brings you breaking news and reports as well as other benefits.

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

There’s no avoiding it – winter is on the way. The word alone can be enough to strike fear into the hearts of horse owners and riders, for whom chilling memories of last year’s winter horrors are resurfacing as fast as the temperature is dropping.

Competing throughout the winter can be a mighty challenge as well – but if you are a dressage rider, we reckon you’ve got it better than most. In fact, we’d venture that of all the equestrian sports, dressage is the one everyone wishes they were doing during the UK winter, and here’s why….

1. Any showjumper who’s sat shivering under a stable rug waiting for a jump-off course to be built at some deathly hour on a Sunday night will feel envious of their dressage colleagues. We know exactly what time we will enter the ring, and we know exactly what time we will be finished riding. No waiting around and re-warming up in the cold and rain for us!

2. Heading to a dressage show on a warm summer’s evening is lovely, but there’s something undeniably magical about trotting down the centre line of a floodlit indoor arena while it’s pitch black outside. You could almost imagine you’re riding at the London International Horse Show…

3. Dressage doesn’t shut down during the winter. Far from it. There’s plenty to fill the diary, if you so desire, whether it’s mapping out a plan to get your regional or area festival qualification in place, or aiming for the combined training championships.

4. A fancy new winter clip might be just what’s needed to transform your somewhat reluctant dressage cob into a super-charged turbo beast who reckons he could give Glamourdale a run for his money when it comes to extended canter. You might need to sit extra tight in the warm-up, but your marks for impulsion will never have been higher.

5. With Christmas around the corner, it can be tempting to give up on the healthy eating and fitness campaign as quickly as you can say “mince pie”. That is, unless you are someone who has aspirations of competing in a tailcoat come January. There’s nothing quite like the fear of wearing a cutaway jacket in public in the not-so-distant future to deter you from overeating during the festive period.

6. A test sheet full of constructive judge’s comments can be the best motivator to keep you focused on your goals even in the deepest depths of winter. Win or lose, you know you’ll (hopefully) come home with something solid to work on.

7. You don’t even have to leave your yard to compete if you really don’t want to. If the thought of battling icy roads or getting up early to plait in sub-zero temperatures fills you with dread, then maybe it’s time to give online dressage a go. It’s basically the dressage equivalent of working from home. What’s not to like?!

You may also be interested in…

‘We left the arena and careered around the judge’s car’ and 21 more dressage bloopers

17 rug hacks to transform your winter

Pammy Hutton asks: ‘Are we asking too much of our dressage judges?’

Understanding leg yield and how to ride it to improve your horse’s suppleness

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Horse & Hound magazine, out every Thursday, is packed with all the latest news and reports, as well as interviews, specials, nostalgia, vet and training advice. Find how you can enjoy the magazine delivered to your door every week, plus options to upgrade your subscription to access our online service that brings you breaking news and reports as well as other benefits.

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

Poor winter weather can mean one thing for some horse owners — restricted turnout. Or possibly no turnout at all. While no turnout is far from ideal, some horses appear better able to cope with the situation than others. Here’s some things you may well be discovering if your horse is currently on restricted turnout.

1. Nothing is indestructible

It’s a lesson we all learn sooner or later — but in your case, it’s sooner, and instead of being a deep message about the nature of our very existence, it specifically refers to the buckets, rugs and (allegedly) indestructible toys your horse has whiled away those long hours in his stable annihilating. If he applied his genius to winning rosettes instead of destroying stuff, you could really clean up.

2. Poo can be a really fun toy

For your horse, that is. Not for you (we hope). But as you remove it from his waterbucket, the grilles on his window, and the countless places he’s buried it round his stable, it strikes you that he’s got really creative with the stuff. Like an equine version of Mister Maker. Only with poo. Weird.

3. Mucking out is a never-ending task

Those heady days of summer when he lived out 24/7 now seem like a blissful dream. Remember how you’d skip round the field, poo-picking for 10 minutes a day — job done? So why does it now take you about an hour each day just to remove the wheelbarrowfuls of the stuff he seems to be producing from his stable? How is he pooing so much? It can’t be normal… can it? Although that’s better than if he stops pooing — then you really are in trouble.

4. The weather app on your phone is your worst enemy

Every time you look at the thing, it shows you a picture of a black cloud with a raindrop coming out of it. Forever. You can almost feel the tiny weatherman in your phone giving you a smug grin. “Your horse is not going out yet,” he seems to whisper. “Why don’t you take him out for a lovely relaxing ride?” Talking of which…

5. Schooling is suddenly really, really exciting

After days of confinement, your horse is fresh. So fresh. What a great time to practise your passage! Admittedly you only asked for working trot, but he’s giving you passage. And now you’re in flat out gallop in a 20x40m school. Who knew that was even possible?

6. And as for hacking…

We strongly recommend a neckstrap!

You might also be interested in:

Getting ready takes forever — and 7 other things you’d forgotten about winter riding

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Horse & Hound magazine, out every Thursday, is packed with all the latest news and reports, as well as interviews, specials, nostalgia, vet and training advice. Find how you can enjoy the magazine delivered to your door every week, plus options to upgrade your subscription to access our online service that brings you breaking news and reports as well as other benefits.

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

Owners have been urged to think carefully before they rug their horses and ponies this winter.

Animal welfare charity Blue Cross has reminded owners that while horses may look snug while wrapped up, this may not be the healthiest or kindest option.

“As winter approaches, it’s tempting to reach for the extra rugs, but does your horse need a rug at all?” said Blue Cross horse welfare manager Ruth Court.

“There has been a lot of research around rugging in recent years and there are many reasons why we may not need to rug our horses, the most obvious one being that it can lead to weight gain and overweight horses.”

Horses have a much wider thermoneutral zone — the temperature range in which they do not have to “work” to control its body temperature — than humans, so even if owners feel cold, they may not.

Blue Cross is urging owners to consider certain points before they decide to grab a horse rug:

• Horses will protect themselves in bad weather, by turning their backs on wind and rain to protect the head, neck, eyes, ears and belly.
• They may choose natural shelter such as hedges and trees, or a field shelter, and keep together to share body warmth.
• Horses with frost on their backs may look cold but this is not the case: very little body heat is escaping, which is why the frost has not melted.
• The horse has a very efficient coat. The erector muscles for each hair need “exercising” to work efficiently, and over-rugging may compromise this natural mechanism.
• Over-rugged horses do not have a natural ability to cool down, so may sweat and become uncomfortable.
• Rugging can affect the horse’s natural weight control system; over-rugging and over-feeding in winter means they are less likely to lose weight, so increasing the risk of more weight gain and laminitis in spring.
• Eating and digesting forage helps generate heat to keep a horse warm naturally.

Of course, some horses do need rugs: clipped, elderly, unwell and lighter-breed horses may need them, as well as those kept in stables, with restricted movement. The individual circumstances need to be considered when deciding which rug to put on your horse.

“Horses have evolved to deal with the cold,” said Ruth. “As long as we meet their basic management needs by providing ad lib forage, water, equine companionship and access to shelter they should be comfortable and warm with the lightest of rain sheets or no rugs at all.

“Do remember to make any changes gradually though, to give them time to adapt their natural heating system and they must be checked at least once a day to be sure they are happy in the field.”

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Horse & Hound magazine, out every Thursday, is packed with all the latest news and reports, as well as interviews, specials, nostalgia, vet and training advice. Find how you can enjoy the magazine delivered to your door every week, plus options to upgrade to access our H&H digital subscription that gives you access to the whole website including breaking news as it happens as well as other benefits.

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A herd of 15 thoroughbreds rescued as winter closed in are among the horses who will benefit from a seasonal match-funding charity initiative.

From today (30 November) until 7 December, as part of The Big Give #ChristmasChallenge21, every penny donated to World Horse Welfare via the Big Give website will be match-funded, doubling the amount raised by the charity.

As an example of the horses who will be supported by donations, World Horse Welfare has shared the story of the thoroughbreds, who had been left at a farm in Devon after an eviction and whose needs were not being met.

The landowner used the Control of Horses Act to gain ownership of the thoroughbreds, who were then signed over to World Horse Welfare and removed to the charity’s premises.

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“The costs for such an operation, however, are significant, and the horses’ removal is just the beginning of a lengthy and expensive process, with each horse being carefully looked after, assessed and rehabilitated by the charity for many months before, hopefully, being ready to rehome,” a spokesman for World Horse Welfare said.

Charity field officer Jon Phipps added that he had been working with the herd for some months.

“They were all on the cusp, they were all lean and we didn’t want them to drop any more weight,” he said. “If we didn’t remove them before winter proper, we were going to have a serious welfare issue.”

Seven of the mares went to the charity’s Hall Farm, manager of which Sue Hodgkins said: “The mares will be turned away until after Christmas, which will give them the opportunity to decompress and settle into their new environment. During that time, we will be assessing their behaviour in the field with each other and the grooms.

“These thoroughbreds are the lucky ones; they will receive five-star treatment from the day they arrive to the day we can hopefully find them a new home. We rely on public donations to allow us to continually rescue, rehabilitate and rehome horses that come into our four farms from across the country. Without public donations our work would not be possible.”

The spokesman added that all donations under the Big Give, the UK’s leading match-funding platform that brings together charities and donors, will “make a huge contribution to securing the future for these horses and others like them”.

“One donation, twice the impact. Together we can.”

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Horse & Hound magazine, out every Thursday, is packed with all the latest news and reports, as well as interviews, specials, nostalgia, vet and training advice. Find how you can enjoy the magazine delivered to your door every week, plus options to upgrade your subscription to access our online service that brings you breaking news and reports as well as other benefits.

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

It’s that time of year again. With a long winter ahead of us some of our four-legged friends spend their evenings in a nice, cosy stable out of the harsh weather. So what might they be thinking about this pampered lifestyle?

1. It’s 4pm, it’s getting dark, now where is my mum? She promised me she would be back to take me inside. Maybe if I pace up and down the fence line she will appear? I might shout in distress and then she’ll know it’s an emergency…

2. It’s raining and I’m inside — this is the life. But where on earth is my tea? It’s usually here waiting for me. This can only mean one thing… Dreaded exercise. My neighbour is smugly eating his tea — I’m going to stand in the corner and sulk in protest.

3. I’m not sure about layout of my bed… I think we need a bit of a shuffle around. Let’s kick a bit of straw here and there. Ahh. Things are starting to look a little comfier. I can’t understand why humans spend hours putting it back how it was each day..

4. I’m sleepy… I think I might have a lie down… And I think I’ll have a little roll onto my other side… Oh no, I’m stuck. Help! Mum? Anyone?

5. Mmm this yellow stuff on the floor is loads tastier than it looks. It can’t hurt to have little snack, can it?

6. What on earth is this ball hanging down? Why won’t it stay still while I try to lick it? Is this some kind of sick trick? ‘Boredom buster’ you say? You’re making me look like a fool…

7. Oops. When I heard my friend coming into the barn I got excited. Who left my water in such a silly place? I need a re-fill please…

8. Tick-tock. Where is my breakfast? I swear it gets later every morning… *Kicks stable door*

9. Is it nearly time for the field? Bets on for how quickly I can escape this stable… *Steps on owner’s foot*

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Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

Horses and ponies have evolved to lose weight in winter – when historically, food was scarce – and put it on in spring and summer, ready for the next cold season.

But today’s management means most horses now do not lose that weight, as they are kept well fed and rugged in the winter, but still put it on in summer, which can lead to a vast range of health issues.

Owners have been urged to take advantage of the current poorer grazing, and the fact horses need to burn more calories to keep warm, to kick-start weight loss now, and be ready for spring.

Aimi Duff, of Rainbow Equine Hospital, recommends the following:

1. Avoid excessive rugging

Considerable heat is generated by the fermentation of food in the hindgut, which keeps the horse warm. Couple this with the fact horses grow their own rugs, in the form of a winter coat, and many do not need a rug especially if stabled. In severe weather of if they must be kept clean and dry for exercise, a turnout sheet could be enough.

2. Clipping

If a horse needs to lose a lot of weight, or the pounds aren’t shifting with rug removal, consider clipping. Fat is a great insulator, so a fat unclipped horse may be wearing the equivalent of a heavyweight rug. Clipping removes some of that insulation and allows them to increase energy losses.

3. Exercise

It can be hard to exercise horses in winter but where possible, exercise should be encouraged to increase energy expenditure. Whether a brisk walk, a lunge, horse-walker exercise or work over poles, ALL exercise is important to help horses go into spring in better body condition. Exercise can also be achieved by creating a track system in the field where the perimeter of the field is fenced off to create a track. The horse is thus encouraged to move around more than they would in a conventional paddock.

4. Feed little and often

Many horses are fed unlimited forage in winter. This may result in a horse eating in excess of its daily energy requirements. It is important to consider not only the quality of the forage, but also the quantity being fed. It is better to avoid long periods of fasting by using double or tripled fine-mesh haynets to slow feeding, and splitting the daily ration into evenly-spread several portions. If you are concerned about leaving your horse without forage for short periods due to gastric ulcers, please consult your vet.

5. Beware of winter grass growth

Be aware that grass will grow when the temperature exceeds 4C. So on a mild winter day, horse may ingest a surprising amount of sugar when turned out. A horse on a grassy pasture will require much less hay, and sunny days and cold nights will cause levels of sugar in grass to rise.

On feeding, the University of Liverpool’s Harry Carslake explained that like people, horses vary greatly in their energy requirements, and that the aim of compiling feeding plans for horses is to determine each individual’s daily nutritional needs, then provide a diet that meets these needs.

As this involves questions such as what a horse’s activity level is, and how much grass it eats while turned out, Mr Carslake recommends speaking to a vet or nutritionist to devise a tailored plan.

“Before you do this, start by recording everything your horse eats over 24 hours (measure feeds in Kgs, not armfuls/scoops etc), the hours per day at pasture, the amount of exercise they do per week and any medical conditions that need to be considered,” he told H&H, adding that when devising a plan for overweight horses, there are general rules to consider.

Low sugar

Make low sugar forage the bulk of the diet. Unless in a high level of work, most horses require minimal or no additional concentrate or pelleted feeds, other than a balancer (see below). Soaking hay in cold water for 12 hours is recommended. Consider submitting hay for forage analysis, which is available from several feed companies for about £30. To reduce calorie intake, up to 30% of the hay ration can be replaced by clean straw, but this should be introduced gradually.

Trickle feeding

After speaking to your vet or nutritionist, for an overweight horse with no access to pasture and at a low level of exercise, a reasonable starting point is to feed 1.5-2% body weight of hay per day, divided into several smaller meals to encourage continuous trickle feeding.

Balancer

Feeding a low-calorie protein, vitamin and mineral balancer is recommended for any horse on a hay/haylage-only diet.

Restrict grazing

Limit access to pasture. This is much easier in winter! Horses (and people) love turnout, especially in summer but grass can contain as much sugar as pony nuts, and horses are very adept at consuming large quantities over a short time. Time at pasture and availability of grass need to be reduced (see above) and if a horse is very overweight and/or prone to laminitis pasture might need to be cut out completely.

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Keep feeding

Don’t starve your horse. After the first week, the aim is to lose between 0.5 and 1% of bodyweight per week. Rates higher than this can become dangerous. Feed companies and vet practices often have portable weighbridges and will visit yards.

Treats

Avoid treats such as carrots and apples. There are low-sugar fibre based treats available.

Keep notes

Monitor and record the results. Take weekly girth and belly circumference measurements, body condition scores, and if available weigh on a weighbridge. Consult your vet/nutritionist after four to six weeks and review the feeding plan.

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Piglet and Doug the donkeys have been among those enjoying the wintry weather in Yorkshire this week.

As all of Britain is locked down once more as a result of the Covid-19 pandemic, members of the Donkey Sanctuary Leeds’ herd have been able to get out and about, playing in the snow.

The charity has released pictures of its donkeys, including Piglet and Doug, who were among those investigating conditions in one of the sanctuary’s fields.

Sonny, a 10-year-old described as “inquisitive” by a spokesman for the charity, struck a pose while snorting flakes off the top of a wall at the centre, in Eccup, West Yorkshire.

Cathryn Hampshire, centre manager of the Donkey Sanctuary Leeds, told H&H: “Our donkeys enjoyed exploring their new, snowy environment, which stimulates their senses, of touch, taste and smell.

“Piglet in particular, couldn’t wait to get down for a good old roll in the fresh snow.”

All the Donkey Sanctuary’s sites are temporarily closed to visitors owing to the coronavirus pandemic.

The spokesman said that all the resident donkeys continue to “receive the highest level of care by the charity’s dedicated grooms, who continue to work as normal”.

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“We look forward to welcoming visitors back to our sites as soon as it is safe to do so,” the spokesman said.

“The safety of our visitors, staff and donkeys is paramount and is an overriding factor in our decision-making. We will never be distracted from our core mission of putting donkeys first, second and third in everything we do.”

Horse & Hound magazine, out every Thursday, is packed with all the latest news and reports, as well as interviews, specials, nostalgia, vet and training advice. Find how you can enjoy the magazine delivered to your door every week, plus options to upgrade to access our H&H Plus online service which brings you breaking news as it happens as well as other benefits.

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

In our 28th weekly episode of the first series of The Horse & Hound Podcast, H&H’s podcast host Pippa Roome chats to para showjumping and hidden disability campigner Evie Toombes about how horses help her to stay positive and overcome her challenges. Moving on to the week’s top news stories, our news team join Pippa to discuss wage increases, transport for slaughter and Covid rule breaches. We also catch up with vet Ricky Farr, to talk about equine weight management during the winter.

Episode 28 of The Horse & Hound Podcast, our popular audio service available exclusively every Thursday morning for our H&H Plus subscribers, is now live.

Each episode is available for all H&H fans to listen to 24hrs after its early release to our H&H Plus members. Search for “The Horse & Hound Podcast” in your preferred podcast app and click subscribe to be notified about each new episode. This will allow more listeners to make The Horse & Hound Podcast an essential part of their week on Friday morning.

• View all episodes of The Horse & Hound Podcast

In episode 28, inspirational para showjumper and recently crowned Pikeur amateur rider of the decade at the H&H Awards, 19-year-old Evie Toombes, talks to H&H podcast host Pippa Roome about how horses have helped her, why she’s such a big fan of riding schools and warns against writing people off based on their weaknesses, instead of considering their strengths.

H&H podcast host Pippa Roome is joined by H&H news editor Eleanor Jones, senior news writer Lucy Elder and news writer Becky Murray to discuss some of the week’s key stories, including increases to the minimum wage and changes to rules around the living wage that are coming in next April, the Government’s consultation around the rules controlling transport for animals for slaughter and high profile Covid rule breaches in the racing world.

In this week’s advice section we catch up with equine vet Ricky Farr of Farr & Pursey Equine about why it’s important to use the winter to help overweight horses get back to healthy levels of condition.

We hope you will enjoy our latest episode and would love to hear your feedback, so please do send your thoughts to pippa.roome@futurenet.com

H&H Plus podcast: episode 28

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A vet who had two reported cases of colic, and neither owner could tell her the horse’s temperature, has urged owners to check their horses’ vital signs. H&H speaks to the experts

OWNERS are being reminded of the importance of knowing their horses’ vital signs and incorporating these checks into their daily routines.

As winter can bring changes to horses’ management and routines, experts agree that understanding what is “normal” for horses in terms of temperature, respiratory and heart rate is useful for spotting early signs of illness.

Equine locum vet Abbie Callow, who runs Equine Education Courses teaching first aid, said she often finds yards do not have a thermometer. She told H&H that she dealt with two cases of colic in horses on separate evenings, and while one owner was stressed and one calm, neither could provide the horse’s a temperature over the phone.

“I had the same information for each horse, the only difference was the reaction of the owner. Had they been on the same night, the information provided by the owners would have caused me to visit the less urgent one first,” she said.

“As vets, prioritising is part of our training – we learn to deal with situations, but it can be helpful being provided with the vital signs. It’s surprising that many owners, who are so good at things like bandaging and wound management, don’t know these.”

British Equine Veterinary Association president Lucy Grieve explained that a horse’s heart rate can be calculated by counting the beats over 15 seconds then multiplying by four; a normal resting heart rate is between 38 and 44 beats per minute. A normal resting horse should take 12 to 29 breaths per minute; this rarely increases unless something is wrong.

“If the heart rate is high, knowing how high can help determine how serious a condition is, like colic. It is one of the critical factors we use to judge whether a horse needs urgent referral and could save vital time,” said Mrs Grieve.

“Gums should be salmon-pink and when you press them, the colour should return within two seconds, known as the capillary refill time (CRT). If the CRT is more, blood is failing to supply the body normally – this is a cause for concern and should also help the vet determine the case urgency.”

British Horse Society director of welfare Gemma Stanford told H&H she recommends that owners know their horses’ normal behaviour and health ranges.

“A high temperature can be the first indicator your horse is unwell, often before they show clinical signs, which is common for strangles,” she said.

High Plains livery yard manager Julie Howard told H&H that following the 2019 UK equine flu outbreak, she encourages owners to monitor their horses’ vital signs every day.

“It’s a simple task but owners are quite daunted by it,” she said. “It’s easy to ask a yard manager or groom to take the temperature, but we’re encouraging owners to do it so they gain confidence.”

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Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

Mud is an inevitable part of winter. Helen Triggs checks out how to minimise the damage with advice from some industry experts on the perils of mud and how to navigate your way through winter with your horse as safely as possible

No one likes mud – it’s cold, wet, sticky and gets everywhere. Even worse, it can cause injuries and medical complications for the horse. But while winter’s ever-present hazard is unavoidable, there are strategies to take away some of the pain.

In most situations, mud is more of an inconvenience than a serious problem. If your horse has even a generous amount of dried mud on his coat, it may be unsightly but it often won’t do any harm. Unless infection takes a hold, the horse’s coat and feathers are his best protection. But for those whose season covers the colder months, they have to confront the elements head-on.

Dealing with sweaty, muddy horses and tack is all in a day’s work for Beaufort hunt groom Margaret Hopkins.

“Last winter was a nightmare,” she says. “We put pig oil on the legs and tummy, and petroleum jelly under the boots and in the heels before we go hunting. We keep horse-washing to a minimum because it strips the horses’ natural oils, leaving them more susceptible to bacterial and fungal infections.

“In summer washing is fine as they soon dry off, but leaving a horse cold and wet too long puts stress on their immune system. However, if they are soaking wet and plastered with mud, we’ll wash them off with a medicated shampoo, to combat bacterial and fungal skin disorders, and make sure they’re scraped and towelled dry before they go to their stables. My rule is that if they arrive home wet, they are washed off, but if they are dry, the mud is brushed off.

“We then bandage all round and use Thermatex rugs to wick away the wet. Horses that are likely to break out in a sweat will have their rugs changed until they are dry. A solarium is on my wish list!”

Horse owners often debate whether to clip out horses’ legs, as the coat does provide some protection but makes it hard to dry and treat sore skin.

Showing and dressage star Louise Bell says, “With horses prone to mud fever I clip the hair on the legs but with a blade that leaves a bit of coat on. I always wash off, but legs must be dried as they are more prone to mud fever.”

David Sheerin, general manager of Wellington Riding, tends to leave the hairier school horses’ legs unclipped.

“They come in to dry and then are brushed off. We’d rather sacrifice looking clean over causing skin infections.”

If not treated, mud fever can lead to long-term conditions such as vasculitis. The key is constant inspection of the horse’s legs for early signs of soreness and scabs, treating the infection and then allowing the skin’s natural barrier to heal. There are a variety of remedies for mud fever, properly named pastern dermatitis, as horses tend to respond differently. The best prevention is to bring the horse in from the field for some time every day to allow the legs to dry out and to be inspected.

Janet Littlewood MRCVS, a specialist in equine dermatology, acknowledges mud fever is a massive problem. Mud can cause surface damage to the skin of the legs, and even the body, which allows bacterial organisms such as Dermatophilus or Staphylococcus to take hold and cause infection.

“If the mud fever is chronic, it can be difficult to deal with and other bugs get in on the act,” says Janet. “Dermatophilus spores are extremely persistent in the environment and can last in the soil for over a year. UV skin damage on unpigmented skin and age can also be contributory factors that increase the riskof infection.

“It’s important to keep limbs dry and clean. Once scabs appear they must be removed with a disinfectant in an area which can be cleaned afterwards to avoid recontamination. A residual disinfectant spray or mousse can also be applied to the lower limbs to help prevent reinfection.”

Janet recommends drying legs with paper towels rather than fabric towels which, if not hot-washed, can harbour infection.

Muddy fields and going can also have implications for the horse’s feet. For example, if your horse has pads or packing in his shoes, sloppy mud can get in and accumulate underneath, so in winter it may be best to avoid these if possible.

“When the ground gets poached we see a lot more overreaches and lost shoes as the horse can’t move his front legs quickly enough out of the way of the hindlegs,” says Team GBR farrier Andrew Bowyer. “Often we have to be more conservative when fitting the shoes.

“If it’s really wet, the horn of the foot gets soft and shoes can pull off a bit more often. If the shoe does come off, clean the foot and apply a wet or dry poultice secured with duct tape and cohesive bandage until the farrier comes.

“In wet weather the feet absorb a lot of moisture. In my opinion, a shavings bed is best at wicking away the moisture,” adds Andrew.

If dealing with muddy horses is time-consuming, their caked tack, rugs and boots are equally a chore, especially for horses hunting several times a week.

“Once we’ve cleaned off the mud from the tack, we towel-dry the leather – there’s no point in putting saddle soap on wet leather as it won’t absorb,” recommends Margaret Hopkins. “We use cotton webbing girths and brush them off when they are dry.”

Anna Millward of Shires Equestrian says, “Avoid using pressure washers or stiff brushes to remove mud from rugs as this will break down the coating on the fabric. Let the rug dry thoroughly and use a soft brush or gentle hose to remove the mud.”

Hose mud off boots, including fastenings, and let them dry naturally.

As with all problems, prevention is better than cure. To prevent mud in the winter, you need to prepare your fields in the summer. However, this is often only remembered in the autumn, as you stand on the opposite side of a muddy gateway to your horse, realising he isn’t going to walk through it unless you fetch him.

The best solution is a non-slip concrete in the gateway or around the water trough. A cheaper solution is to remove the top soil and lay a ground membrane. Put down a layer of stone topped off with smaller stone or tarmac planings. You could also use a plastic grid system where the grass grows through and makes the area resistant to poaching.

Mud isn’t pleasant, but with careful management and preparation it needn’t bog you down.

Ref: Horse & Hound; 19 November 2020

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Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Horse & Hound magazine, out every Thursday, is packed with all the latest news and reports, as well as interviews, specials, nostalgia, vet and training advice. Find how you can enjoy the magazine delivered to your door every week, plus options to upgrade your subscription to access our online service that brings you breaking news and reports as well as other benefits.

Lockdown is back — beginning in England on 5 November. But this time, we’re ready for it. While it is beyond frustrating to put our lives back on hold for these four weeks, there are many jobs and activities that riders and horse owners can get stuck into, whether you are able to see your horse under lockdown restrictions or not. Make this your most productive lockdown period with our suggestions...

1. Get your yard ready for winter

One of the biggest differences between this lockdown and the last is the season. With winter starting to set in, use this time to get your yard winter-ready. Check gutters and pipes are in good condition and pay attention to your gateways — consider laying hardcore to prevent poaching. The last thing any of us need is to have mud fever to worry about on top of Covid-19.

2. Focus on your schooling nemesis

We all have one aspect of training that we put off as long as we can — whether it’s working on improving your horse’s halt, putting a stop to his drifting to the left over a fence or even learning to check your diagonal without looking down. Well, with lockdown upon us, there’s no excuses. Use the time you might have been competing or commuting to nail your training bugbear.

3. Do some video analysis at home

If you’re not able to ride or see your horse during lockdown, don’t despair — you can still make this time productive. Dig out some videos of you riding, and previous dressage test sheets, and get a notepad and pen at the ready. Identify five key areas that need improvement and make a step-by-step plan for how you will address these once you can get back in the saddle.

4. Focus on your own fitness

We all know the importance of rider fitness and strength, but while we’re out and about competing and having fun on our horses it’s easy to forget about all the things we can do out of the saddle to make us a better rider. Use this time to work on your own fitness, strength and flexibility – whether it’s making time for a regular run, nailing your plank technique, getting stuck into yoga with an online class, or using whatever you have at home to work on your strength.

5. Perfect those plaits

Spent the summer eying others’ perfect plaits and wishing your own looked the same? Now’s the time to do something about it. The only way to get good at plaiting is… yes, you guessed it — practise, practise, practise. Check out our handy guides, or follow a YouTube tutorial, and your plaits will be the envy of all your competitors by next season.

6. Embrace online training

Just because you may not be able to book an in-person lesson with your instructor, doesn’t mean your progress has to suffer. Check whether your trainer is offering virtual sessions and get booked in. And H&H is preparing to launch a brand new eTraining Plan, with weekly e-lessons, access to top trainer’s advice, weekly test-riding videos with top judges and much more, so keep an eye out for that.

7. Try your hand at online dressage

If you regretted not giving online dressage a go during the first lockdown, don’t make the same mistake again. With various organisations offering virtual dressage judging — and even rosettes — all you need is a willing volunteer to video you and your horse in action. It’s also a great opportunity to show off those new-found plaiting skills!

8. Attack the tack room

When was the last time you spent a day truly cleaning and sorting out your tack room. Can’t think back that far? Us too. Use lockdown to go through all your gear, repairing or throwing out broken equipment, preparing a pile to take to your local second-hand tack shop or car boot sale once restrictions ease, and organising everything so it’s easy to find when you need it.

9. Assess your horse’s condition

Weigh your horse, and take time to stand back and take a good, honest look at his condition. If he’s put on a few unwanted pounds over the summer — or if he struggles to keep weight on once winter hits — now is the time to work out his optimum autumn/winter feeding regime. Consider consulting a qualified nutritionist — many will be only too happy to offer advice via phone or video call even though they cannot visit in person.

10. Become a planner

2020 has flown by in a Covid-tinted haze of scary headlines, Zoom quizzes and changed plans. But put your positive pants on and look ahead to 2021 — and beyond. While it’s tough to make any solid plans, there’s no harm in getting organised and filling up that diary. Think about your goals for the year ahead too — what do you want to achieve with your horse? Write down your ultimate goal for 2021, then break it down into manageable steps to give yourself the best chance of achieving it.

Like this? You might also enjoy reading these:

Coronavirus Q&A: horse riders, businesses and employees — all you need to know

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11. Get in the festive spirit

We hate to say it, but it’s time to start thinking about the C word. No, not that one for once — we’re talking about Christmas. The usual festive celebrations and shopping trips may be in jeopardy, but why not use this time to put together a gift list that can be fulfilled online? Finding the perfect horsey Christmas cards to send to your loved ones is a good place to start…

Horse & Hound magazine, out every Thursday, is packed with all the latest news and reports, as well as interviews, specials, nostalgia, vet and training advice. Find how you can enjoy the magazine delivered to your door every week, plus options to upgrade to access our H&H Plus online service which brings you breaking news as it happens as well as other benefits.

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

The winter months are always a challenge for horse owners, so we asked top riders, trainers and amateurs for their tips to make the cold and wet winter days more bearable. Here is what they had to say...

Exercising your horse

1. “Don’t be a martyr when it comes to working your horse. If it’s miserable for you, it’s going to be miserable for him as well.” Karen Bush, instructor and author

2. “A 20min lungeing session will allow your horse to stretch his legs and can help to keep your horse fit if you don’t have the time to school him.” Claire Lilley, trainer and author

3. “A horse walker really helps to ease exercise issues when you have limited hours of daylight.” Bryony Wilson, eventer

4. “Variety is important to keep your sport horses fit and entertained. Take every opportunity to hack and bring as much variety as possible into your training in the school. With the young horses, I’ll do gridwork or loose jumping.” Laura Tomlinson, British Olympic dressage rider

5. “When exercising, we do a lot of riding and leading. We can get just as many horses exercised that way during less hours of daylight.” Tricia Hirst, endurance rider

6. “Try to exercise your horses most days to get their circulation going, but if you don’t manage to get out due to bad weather, make sure you adjust your feed rations accordingly.” Sandra Low-Mitchell, showjumper

7. “Incorporate a ground schooling session at least once a week to add variety and help maintain topline. Learning to long-rein effectively will benefit not only the horse but rider fitness too.” Dr Kathryn Nankervis, Hartpury College equine therapy lecturer

8. “When riding in the rain use a waterproof wrap-around exercise sheet to keep you and your horse dry. Avoid riding on the outside track in the outdoor manège, so it doesn’t get too boggy.” Vikki Weaver, dressage rider

Healthy happy horses

9. “Feed good-quality oil to your horses through the winter months. It’s brilliant for keeping condition on and for the coat.” Julian Marczak, chairman of the Association of British Riding Schools

10. “Cut down stable dust by using good quality hay and dust-free bedding. Ensure the stables are well ventilated and horses are turned out to minimise stable coughs and colic.” Karen Coumbe, H&H veterinary advisor

11. “When your horses are hot and sweaty, a solarium is wonderful. They’re very expensive, but worth their weight in gold. Alternatively, red heat lamps can do the job.” Lucy Katan, British Grooms Association

12. “Ensure all horses are checked properly twice daily, even if they are living out. Look out for wounds and early signs of mud fever, especially at the back of the pasterns.” Karen Coumbe, H&H veterinary advisor

13. “After a frosty night, break any ice on water troughs first thing — the ice may have meant that your horse hasn’t had access to water for several hours.” The team from Redwings

14. “My horses live out without rugs through the winter. I try to ensure all the horses have plenty of condition on them — it helps with their ‘central heating’. We feed the hay on hard-standing pads, which helps saves the field.” Lucinda McAlpine, Natural Horse Management

15. “We keep our horses on rubber matting, which helps save time and money and is dust-free. We use Horseware Rambo rugs, which are waterproof and breathable, and the horses wear the same ones in the stable and field, which saves time.” Tricia Hirst, endurance rider

16. “With winter comes mud fever. We’ve found that towel-drying the legs is more important than anything else. One of my grooms suggested applying sulphur powder to the legs and it’s worked brilliantly — we’ve barely had mud fever since trying this.” Polly Williamson, former eventer turned trainer

17. “Apply liquid paraffin to dry legs before the horse goes out to prevent mud fever — it is highly water-repellent, kind to the skin, and non-sticky.” Carol Mailer, showjumping trainer

18. “To help prevent mud fever, clean mud and dirt from your horse’s legs every day using tepid water. Water that is too cold may cause cracks and abrasions to the skin, whereas if it is too warm it will encourage the pores to open, both of which provide an entry route for bacteria.” The team from Redwings Horse Sanctuary

Around the yard

19. “Check your water pipes are sufficiently lagged to avoid them bursting after a freeze.” Karen Bush, instructor and author

20. “Put hardcore or used shavings down round the field gates to prevent poaching.” Helen Firn, horse owner

21. “A heater for your tack room will prevent tack getting damp and mouldy.” The team from Redwings

22. “Invest in an industrial tumble drier and washing machine to keep numnahs, boots and rugs clean and dry.” Lucy Thompson, eventing trainer

23. “Plan ahead to make winter easier. Minimise mud by improving drainage in gateways or putting down road chippings. Ensure the stable lights are working and that you have enough forage and bedding to last the winter. Lag pipes to avoid freezing.” Karen Coumbe, H&H veterinary advisor

24. “If your water pipes tend to freeze overnight, invest in a couple of large water containers that you can fill in the evening and keep indoors ready for the morning.” The team from Redwings

25. “Use only one of your paddocks in the winter and turn each horse out in rotation for a few hours a day. This prevents all your fields being ruined. This one paddock, that will inevitably get poached, can then be rested and allowed to recover before the following winter.” Jenny Key, dressage trainer

Looking after yourself

26. “Wear thermal liners in your boots and fingerless gloves so you can still do fiddly jobs. Always wear a t-shirt or vest tucked in to your breeches.” Sue Cutts, riding school proprietor

27. “Always wear a hat — you lose most of your body heat through your head.” Polly Williamson, former eventer turned trainer

28. “I used to suffer from chilblains down my legs. To combat this I bought thermal jodphurs and a pair of overtrousers, which are fantastic for hacking out in.” Bryony Wilson, eventer

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H&H’s dos and don’ts for winter riding

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Clean and tidy horses

29. “Cut tails shorter then normal early in October to keep the hindlegs and tails mud-free. For added cleanliness, plait the bottom of tails in a thick plait.” Lucy Thompson, eventing trainer

30. “Equine hoods are a godsend for keeping horses clean and warm— try spraying a little show sheen on the inside of the hood to prevent rubbing.” Bryony Wilson, eventer

31. “After working, wash horses down with warm water and cider vinegar when they’re sweaty — it’s good for the coat and skin.” Laura Tomlinson, British Olympic dressage rider

32. “Thatching is still the best way to dry off a tired horse after hunting. Use dry, shaken-out hay under a rug, and always towel dry the ears and legs.” Polly Williamson, former eventer turned trainer

33. “Rug technology is so good nowadays that you should be able to buy one good, warm and breathable turnout rug — I hate to see horses weighed down with multiple rugs.” Sandra Low-Mitchell, showjumper

Horse & Hound magazine, out every Thursday, is packed with all the latest news and reports, as well as interviews, specials, nostalgia, vet and training advice. Find how you can enjoy the magazine delivered to your door every week, plus options to upgrade to access our H&H Plus online service which brings you breaking news as it happens as well as other benefits.

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

As we head towards the colder months and start to endure some of the more testing weathers, there are a few common skin conditions that you should know about, which can bother our horses.

Make sure you’re aware of these five weather-releated problems so you can help keep your horse happy and healthy this winter…

1. Folliculitis

This is a bacterial infection of a horse’s hair follicles and is most common in the areas where a horse’s tack sits, such as the neck, saddle and girth areas. It thrives in warm, wet conditions such as under sweaty rugs and saddle pads. Folliculitis presents as clusters of small, red bumps or pustules that develop around hair follicles. These can break open and crust over, leaving your horse’s skin feeling painful and tender.

TREATMENT: avoid over-rugging your horse to prevent sweating and ensure tack fits correctly and doesn’t rub. Make sure rugs are kept clean, especially when putting them on a freshly clipped horse. If your horse has contracted the condition, your vet will prescribe a longer-than-usual course of antibiotics, along with daily bathing of the area with warm water and a disinfectant. With correct treatment, folliculitis should clear up within 10 to 14 days.

2. Ringworm

Ringworm causes skin lesions that usually start as small, raised spots from which the hair is lost. The spots can spread and a thick, dry and crumbly scab may form. The patches can enlarge as the fungus spreads outwards. Some horses react to the fungal toxins and the skin becomes inflamed. A crust of exudate forms under the hair tuft. Ringworm scabs are often confused with rain scald, so speak to your vet as soon as you see symptoms to ensure correct diagnosis.

TREATMENT: ringworm is highly contagious so, if you suspect it, isolate the horse immediately. It is easily treated using fungicidal washes and sprays, which should be used as advised by your vet. The horse’s hair will generally grow back within six to eight weeks. Wash any areas of the stable that the horse was in contact with, and all his rugs, with the fungicidal. Bedding should be removed, and burned if possible. Avoid clipping an infected horse as this is likely to spread infection. People can also be infected.

3. Lice

Parasites such as lice commonly affect horses with long winter coats. There are two types of lice 
that live on horses: Haematopinus asini, 
a sucking louse that feeds on blood and tissue fluid, and Damalinia equi, a biting louse that feeds on scurf and other debris 
on the skin surface. Lice are very small and hard to see, but the most common sign you’ll spot is an itching horse, particularly under the mane, along the back and at the top of the tail. They can itch so much that it causes bald patches. Cream-coloured eggs can be found in the mane and forelock close to the skin surface.

TREATMENT: lice thrive in warmth and moisture, so avoid making your horse too warm with unnecessary rugging. You may also need to isolate a horse that has lice, as these parasites pass easily from one horse to another. If you do suspect them, treat your horse with a louse powder or treatment provided by your vet. As the powder kills off only adult lice and not eggs, you’ll need to treat your horse again in 10 to 14 days to kill off any that have hatched in the interim. Equipment such as tack, rugs and grooming brushes should also be treated.

4. Rain scald

Rain scald is a bacterial infection which affects a horse’s face, back, shoulders, loins and hindquarters. It is caused by excessive wetting of the skin, such as prolonged periods of driving rain, or constant sweating under over-thick rugs which allows bacteria to penetrate through small abrasions and cause an infection similar to mud fever. Rain scald appears as scabs, often with tufts of hair attached and sore, pink skin in between. Secondary infection can occur which results in pus under the scabs.

TREATMENT: avoid over-rugging as this causes sweating, which increases moisture and enables bacteria to thrive. Change rugs regularly and avoid sharing them (as well as brushes and tack) between horses to prevent cross-infection. Also ensure your rugs are fully waterproof to keep the rain off the skin. Clipping your horse’s winter coat will help reduce sweating and makes keeping the skin clean easier, too. Clean with diluted antibacterial wash, then gently tease scabs off, dry and apply antibacterial or antibiotic ointment as required until the infection subsides. Horses should be stabled or wear a waterproof, breathable rug 
to protect them until the infection has 
cleared up.

Continued below…

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5. Mud fever

Mud fever usually occurs when horses are working or living in wet, muddy conditions. Anything that softens or damages the skin allows bacteria to enter and can fuel mud fever, which is caused by the same bacteria as rain scald. The skin over the pasterns becomes infected, resulting in scabby, weeping lesions. The affected area can become hot, swollen and painful to touch. The infection can spread further up the leg and cause lameness. White limbs are particularly susceptible.

TREATMENT: improving the drainage in the paddock and laying down gravel in muddy areas will keep your horse out of the wet. Leg wraps can also help keep mud off a horse’s legs. It’s preferential to let any mud on legs dry and then brush it off than to keep hosing it off, as the constant washing removes the protective oily layer. Ensure bedding is clean and dry. To treat mud fever, clip the hair around the infected area. Ease off any scabs that lift relatively easily, using a greasy cream to soften if necessary, but avoid picking and causing bleeding. Use an antiseptic wash to clean the area gently, then dry thoroughly with absorbent kitchen roll before applying a topical or steroidal cream from your vet. In severe cases, antibiotics may be given. Stabling your horse for the first few days will give the skin a better chance of healing.

Horse & Hound magazine, out every Thursday, is packed with all the latest news and reports, as well as interviews, specials, nostalgia, vet and training advice. Find how you can enjoy the magazine delivered to your door every week, plus options to upgrade to access our H&H Plus online service which brings you breaking news as it happens as well as other benefits.

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

• This article has been edited and approved by Karen Coumbe MRCVS, H&H’s veterinary advisor since 1991.

The horse’s hoof is a fantastic piece of biological engineering, but it does face a number of challenges, especially when moisture is involved. Equine vet Ricky Farr MRCVS has some winter hoof care tips to help keep your horse’s hooves healthy while dealing with wet or frozen ground by applying easy-to follow preventative hoof care measures.

Vet Ricky Farr’s essential winter hoof care tips

1. Pick out and clean hooves daily.

2. To give the horse’s hooves the chance to adapt to the typical environmental changes that occur during the winter, bring horses in from muddy fields for several hours a day to allow the foot to dry out, or provide a dry loafing area where they can stand if they live out 24/7.

3. An unbalanced foot is more prone to developing flares, which results in uneven strain on the hoof wall. Consequently grass or sand cracks can develop, which give organisms access to underlying structures. Skilled farriery is required to maintain healthy hooves, so don’t skip or extend the time between your farrier’s visits, even if your horse isn’t being worked as much during the winter.

4. Assessment of the hoof at rest and during the normal foot flight is essential to maintain this degree of balance. Ask your farrier to assess your horse’s foot in this way regularly.

5. Having the toe rolled and giving heel support can improve sole depth over time.

6. While there are nutritional supplements formulated to help support the growth of healthy hooves, they are not designed to manage the moisture content of the horse’s hoof.

7. Coating the underside of the hoof with a sugar and iodine mix is a good way to harden and dry out the sole, although it should be used with care to avoid drying out the hoof too much. There is also a wide range of hoof clays and other topical preparations available to help prevent excessive moisture absorption through the sole.

• To stay up to date with all the breaking news from major shows throughout 2025, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

You may also be interested in:

No foot, no horse – hoof supplements to help maintain healthy hooves

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13 hacks and tips to make winter horse care easier

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

We love the summer, with longer days and better weather – but we’re pleased to see winter too. Here’s why…

1. We can wave goodbye to summer problems, such as sweet itch, constant flies and sunburn.

2. Indoor competitions start up again — no more hard ground!

3. Did we mention the flies?

4. Riding on a cold, crisp winter’s morning, when it’s just cold enough to make your cheeks glow and there’s a cup of hot chocolate with your name on it for when you get back, is one of life’s very special pleasures.

5. A clipped, rugged horse can often be easier to keep clean in the winter than a naked one in the summer.

6. You can’t be disappointed by the weather, only pleasantly surprised.

7. Summer kit is all very well, but you’re always secretly pleased to see your proper coats, breeches, thick socks and gloves again. Plus, you’ve now got a good excuse for a new pair of boots.

8. A long ride, followed by comfort food. Toast and jam. Soup. Jacket potatoes. Need we say more? Also, you’ve heard that you burn more calories in cold weather which obviously completely cancels out any extra biscuits.

9. Leaving your horse tucked up with rugs and hay, and heading home to pyjamas, furry throws, a log fire and a box set.

10. Final release from the frizzy hair that’s plagued you all summer. ‘Hat hair’ is generally much better in winter, too.

11. Coming home from the yard on a dark winter’s night and having time to take a long, hot bath as it’s only 6.30pm.

Continued below…

17 rug hacks to transform your winter

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12. Christmas! What other time of year do you get to cover your horse in tinsel and dress up as an elf to go or a hack, without anyone raising an eyebrow?

13. The January sales. It’s a well-known fact that it’s actually impossible to have too many outdoor rugs/winter coats.

14. We’re not sure whether we remembered to mention it, but the lack of flies. In fact, the lovely, lovely lack of all things buzzing, biting and stinging, and no longer having to spend what feels like £20 a week on fly spray.

For all the latest equestrian news and reports, don’t miss Horse & Hound magazine, out every Thursday

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now