Horses are highly social animals, often forming many strong bonds and friendships over the course of their lifetime. There are clear evolutionary reasons for this, as Dr Claire Ricci-Bonot, a postdoctoral researcher at INRAE (France's National Research Institute for Agriculture, Food and the Environment), explains.

“It’s important to remember that horses are generally gregarious animals who live within complex social systems,” she says. “For them, the group means safety and survival, so their brains are adapted to seek out partners.”

Social interaction is so important for horses, it’s recognised within the five freedoms of equine welfare.

“We know that developing and maintaining social relationships and hierarchical positions are second only to getting food in what horses do all day, given the opportunity,” says equine behaviour consultant Dr Debbie Marsden.

“This is not surprising as for herd animals like horses, ‘fitting in’ and ‘getting along’ is vital for survival, and a network of established relationships is essential to minimise aggression and conserve energy.”

Given horses are hardwired to rely on social bonds for survival, it’s no wonder they’re picky about their friends.

“Horses living in a group tend to have one to three preferred partners; they often spend a lot of time together and synchronise their activities,” says Claire.

But, as anyone who’s ever tried to integrate a new horse into an existing group knows, predicting where horse friendships will blossom isn’t easy. It’s an area of equine behaviour in which Debbie would like to see more research.

“We don’t know which horses will get along or become friends until we put them together,” she says. “It would be really useful to be able to ‘profile’ or predict this.”

Becky Moody on matchmaking equine neighbours and forming horse friendships

For international dressage rider Becky Moody, giving the horses on her yard the opportunity to socialise is important but requires careful matchmaking.

“It can be difficult to manage on a yard like this, as you have a lot of strong characters in your competition horses!” she says. “So I 100% choose carefully. Some horses, when turned out, are relatively solitary, not bothered about the one that’s next to them, and then others spend the entire time playing with each other.”

When Becky put in round pens for winter turnout, socialising was an important factor in their design.

“The pens are in pairs and we have a low bit between them, so the horses can interact and they do spend a lot of time playing with each other. That was really important to me, that they had that opportunity.”

Lizzie Wray is the yard owner at Shadowmere Equine Retirement Livery, Lincs. Whenever a new horse arrives, she uses their 14-day biosecurity procedure to get to know the horse and their personality, before choosing which she thinks is the most suitable group for them to join.

“We then bring the group we think will be good to the next paddock, and let them get to know each other safely, over the fence,” she says. “Once we’re happy, we’ll introduce the newbie into the herd.”

Even then, she doesn’t take any chances.

“Say we’re introducing a fourth horse to an existing group of three, we always have four members of staff on hand in case it doesn’t work and we need to remove the newbie and rethink.

“We have come across ones that hate each other,” she continues. “We’ve got one mare who just doesn’t like this one gelding – she can’t even look at him, the poor boy is doing nothing to her!”

Lizzie says it can take two or three weeks for a group to settle, but if it’s not working, they’ll try something else.

“If they don’t get on, or it’s not meeting their needs, then we’ll try another group.”

Some horses seem to struggle more socially than others.

“It does seem to be a particular characteristic of the bullied animal, not the bullies, but we don’t know how to assess for it,” says Debbie.

“They may just not be giving out the ‘expected’ social signals, or giving out the wrong ones. And there may be as yet unknown pheromonal signs or some other communication we’re not aware of.”

It’s thought poor social skills stem from the horse’s upbringing and a lack of opportunity to interact at an early age, and Debbie says it’s unclear if this can be corrected in later life.

“We don’t know how to teach or improve these social skills, other than by offering varied social experiences in later years.”

A healthy, well-established equine bond is characterised as much by what we don’t see as what we do, which presents a challenge when trying to study it.

“Simple ‘acceptance’ and ‘tolerance’ is a huge part of equine social behaviour. It’s hard for scientists to measure or investigate ‘nothing happening’,” explains Debbie.

“There is probably a lot more communication and subtle social behaviour going on than we are aware of. One thing we do know is that, once established, these relationships last for a great many years.”

For Lizzie, running a retirement livery means facing the inevitable – having to manage a horse whose close companion has died.

“Horses absolutely grieve,” she confirms. “We had two geldings who were particularly drawn to each other and very happy, but the younger one was sadly riddled with arthritis and had to be put to sleep.

“For two weeks afterwards, the surviving gelding was completely off his food and lethargic. We thought he was going to die of a broken heart, but eventually he quietly slipped into the other herd and they seemed to support him.”

Lizzie is a big advocate of allowing horses to see what’s happening when a horse is euthanised, “So they can process it, and they don’t think, where’s he gone?”

Apart from the unavoidable end of life, Lizzie and her team try not to separate any of the horses on their yard.

“These horses are not out competing,” she points out. “They come in through the gates and don’t leave until it’s time for them to be put to sleep. We don’t turn out or bring in alone, and if a horse is on box rest for some reason, they always have a buddy.”

On a busy competition yard, where horses are constantly coming and going, managing attachments requires careful consideration, as five-star event rider Millie Dumas explains.

“You have to find the right groups of horses to take to a show, for example, and sometimes you have to separate horses so that an attachment doesn’t become a performance issue,” she says. “If you want to get the best out of them, they also have to be happy and content in their home environment. We don’t want stressed horses.”

Separation anxiety in horses – what we know

Separation anxiety is something many owners are aware of, but surprisingly little is actually known about it. In her previous role at the University of Lincoln, Claire undertook a study into owners’ experiences of separation anxiety. The results, based on 88 responses, were published earlier this year.

“More than 90% of the respondents believed they had a horse that had suffered with separation anxiety or knew someone owning a horse who they believed had suffered from separation anxiety,” she says. “However, in the scientific literature, little is known about separation anxiety despite it being commonly discussed in the popular press and by owners.

“Our research demonstrated that it’s more complicated than we might think.”

The research found that how separation anxiety manifests differs from horse to horse. It was observed in different contexts, as it depended on whether the horse was being left behind or was actively leaving, and occurred at different points during the process.

“This was separated into ‘during preparation’ for departure, when ‘actively leaving or being left’, when there is an ‘initial barrier to contact’ and finally when there is a ‘loss of contact’,” Claire explains.

“Moreover, we identified several signs potentially associated with separation anxiety, ranging from increased arousal – for example hypervigilance – to apathy.”

The research concluded that care needs to be taken not to overgeneralise.

Claire also points out that more research is needed on how to prevent separation anxiety occurring.

“There’s no scientific literature on the benefits of training horses through graduated periods of controlled isolation to cope with separation from a companion or group,” she says. “Until we get more data, our recommendations remain ‘best guess’.

“However, gradually training young horses to cope with separation as a preventative measure is advisable.”

For Millie, this training is an important part of a horse’s education. She’s seen first-hand the problems that can occur without it.

“We’ve had liveries in the past, often older horses that have perhaps lived their life with one other horse and gone everywhere together. Because they’ve never been taught to be independent, they’ve become insecure without their companion by their side,” she says.

“We’ve managed these types of horses by making sure that they have the right sort of company next door to them, ones who give off a calm demeanour.

“It’s important to teach horses from a young age gradually to be independent as well as have company, to be able to leave it and come back,” she explains.

“We have a lot of young horses and I think it’s really important they learn that, as well as having that downtime where they can socialise with other horses.”

Becky agrees, and adds that hacking can play a big part in this early training.

“We hack all our young ones a lot, they do always hack in pairs and getting each one to walk in front and be confident makes a big difference to how they are at a competition.”

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It’s not ideal to turn your horse out in the field with his headcollar on, but sometimes it’s unavoidable – and this is where the best field-safe headcollars become incredibly handy. Whether your horse is tricky to catch or needs to wear a headcollar to attach one of the best grazing muzzles or fly fringes, a field-safe headcollar is – as the name suggests – a safer option than a standard nylon headcollar or rope halter.

I’ve put together a selection of field-safe headcollars with either Velcro or leather breaking points in all sizes, so that you can find something to suit your needs.

Best field-safe headcollars for horses

This weatherproof headcollar is smart enough for daily use, on competition days or for turnout. It has been scientifically tested to ensure it breaks at with appropriate load. It’s made from PVC with stainless steel fittings and has neoprene padding on the headpiece and nosepiece for comfort.

The reusable and replaceable safety release system is tailored to your horse’s size and weight, ensuring customised safety. Equilibrium recommends that the safety strap is replaced after 10 pulls (or if the Velcro is not adhering well) to ensure efficiency of the strap.

I use this smart headcollar on my Irish Draughtand during the summer I attach his grazing muzzle to it. I find that it offers a good fit and I’ve not experienced any rubbing. I like the wipe-clean material as it avoids dirt and loose hair getting stuck and doesn’t soak up water when bathing. The safety release is easy to reset. If your budget allows, you won’t be disappointed with this headcollar.

A popular, budget-friendly option that’s available in a good range of sizes, this nylon headcollar has touch-tape releases on the headpiece and noseband. It is without buckles, reducing the risk of it catching or getting hooked. Designed for turnout use only.

This headcollar allows you to easily change between normal and field use with a choice of two straps below the buckle – one standard and one with a touch-tape breaking point. It also has an adjustable padded nose with touch-tape breakpoint.

This safety headcollar is made from string nylon with a leather headpiece that will break under heavy load. The leather headpiece is replaceable, which means you don’t have to fork out for a whole new headcollar if it breaks.

Made from high-quality nylon with strong metal fittings. this safety headcollar Features soft fleece padding and a tailored safety release system that’s engineered to activate at just the right pressure, based on your horse’s size and weight.

One of the standout features is the replaceable safety strap, which can be easily swapped out after up to ten activations – eliminating the need to replace the entire headcollar and ensuring ongoing protection.

What is the best field safe headcollar?

The best field-safe headcollars are designed to break in an emergency – for example, if the headcollar hooked on the fence and your horse became stuck, there is an intentional weak point (usually Velcro/touch-tape) where the headcollar will break away. Some go a step further and have no metal hardware in the design at all, which is also handy if your horse is sensitive to metals or zinc.

Previously, leather headcollars were often used for turnout as they’re more likely to break than nylon, however, many like to save leather for their travel kit or best – and if your horse is wearing it for turnout all year round, it won’t look its best for long.

Your other option – if you don’t want to purchase a new headcollar – is to buy a field-safe converter strap or breakaway attachment, which will provide an existing headcollar with a new breakpoint.

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There are few nicer views than seeing relaxed horses grazing together or grooming each other in the field, but these fond friendships don’t always happen overnight, and introducing a new horse to a herd takes time and patience.

When you get a new horse you’ll likely be looking to keep them at a livery yard, or at home if you have appropriate grazing land. The three Fs model focuses on a horses’ three essential needs; friends, forage, and freedom – horses are highly social animals and providing companionship is vital for their welfare.

Veterinary behaviourist expert Dr Gemma Pearson, who is director of equine behaviour for The Horse Trust, says that it is important that horses can groom each other.

“There are scenarios where it’s not possible for horses to be in the same space, but in those cases having fencing that facilitates that they can still groom each other over the top, for me, would be the lowest acceptable standard for most horses,” she says.

“If horses get to live as a herd it means they get to choose who their friends are. Often we put them in pairs, which is fine, but we’re deciding who they’re going to be friends with.

“Whereas if we allow them to be in a slightly bigger group, they will often choose who they spend the most time with. Some will give the best back scratches, others might be the best at swatting flies off their face, or good to have a good gallop with, so having that ability to interact with several other horses is the gold standard.”

Introducing a horse to a new herd can have its challenges and should be done with the help of someone experienced. Gemma says that there is not a “one size fits all” herd, and it often comes down to individual yard set-ups. If you have moved to a new yard, it is likely they will already have established groups, which might include separate mares and geldings, mixed herds, or horses grouped by similar ages and heights.

“We know that as a preference horses will prefer those that are a similar age, because they want to do similar things; younger horses will have a higher play drive and older horses tend to want to relax a little bit more,” she explains Gemma.

“Sex can also be a component – we find that geldings enjoy playing with other geldings, whereas mares spend more time standing next to each other or grooming. But in mixed herds you can get mares and geldings that choose to be more friendly than with their own sex.”

How to introduce a horse to a new herd

When introducing a new horse to a herd equine welfare charity HorseWorld lets horses meet over a fence in adjacent paddocks.

“We give new arrivals time to bond and form a small group or pair, and then we move them into a larger herd,” says Sarah Hollister, HorseWorld’s head of equine welfare. “This means the new horse has already become acquainted and has a couple of friends, and it just seems to help them integrate into the herd a lot easier.

“With a new herd we would always do introductions earlier in the day to make sure they’ve had time to settle, but if we’re not too sure about how they are getting on, we’d separate them again overnight and start again the next day. It’s important to have people around that can monitor the situation and if it’s not going well you can remove them for a little while.”

Gemma says that most disagreements between new horses will occur in the first 48 hours.

“Sometimes people think if they run around for half an hour and they start to graze it’s fine, but actually it’s at least 48 hours before things have really settled down,” she says.

“Some chasing is OK – that is a normal part of an introduction of a new herd member. What usually happens is a member approaches the herd and there will be some sniffing and squealing, there may be some strikes and kick-outs, but they shouldn’t normally make contact.

“A lot of this is display behaviour. The new horse may retreat a bit, and it’s important that they are in a big enough area that they can get out of the way and have somewhere to go – we see most problems when the paddock is too small and a horse can’t get away.

“Then normally over a period of time, the new horse will get closer and closer. In my own experience with my three-year-old I got this spring, it took three to four weeks before he was really grazing and integrated into the established herd.”

Sarah reminds us that horses are individuals and the time it can take to settle into a new group can take vary greatly.

“It can take a couple of hours or days, or it can take a couple of weeks or months,” she says.

“Everything is going to depend on how those personalities match, their gender, and just their general history. For example you might have a horse who has not been well socialised growing up and who has spent a lot of time alone previously.

“So it can take a long time, and a lot longer than people expect, but generally you’ll see they’ll become more comfortable in each other’s spaces over time.

“The only time I’ve seen horses struggle to live with others is when a horse has been kept alone, especially if it’s been since they were a youngster. However, we’ve never had a case where a horse hasn’t adapted to living with others.”

Sarah advises during the settling in phase to give extra resources.

“If feeding hay rations make sure they are really well spaced out, and you might need to offer more than one water source,” she says.

“Giving hard feed can be a real trigger so rather than doing this in the field, we would recommend taking horses out of the field to feed them.”

A livery yard’s approach to introducing a horse to a new herd

BHSII and UKCC level 3 coach Danielle Quigley Cutter keeps single-sex herds of six at her livery and competition yard Holmside Hall Equestrian.

“To begin with we will put a new horse in with one other, and let them settle,” Danielle explains. “Then from there we introduce one more at a time. I would expect some squealing and playing, but we would then be looking for them to start grazing and we would usually give them around a week to settle.

“We keep ponies in separate herds from horses, from a safety perspective of children going to take their pony out of the field – and we have a mandatory rule that everyone must wear a hard hat when bringing in or turning out.”

Danielle’s yard has a set routine which she believes helps horses settle in.

“All our horses come in at night during the winter, and in during the day during summer, and we find having that system really helps horses adapt to being in a new place,” says Danielle.

Troubleshooting

In cases of concern, for example where a horse hasn’t been in a herd previously, Gemma says it can be useful to speak to your vet about prescribing a psychopharmaceutical – a non-sedative drug that can help with anxiety.

“It doesn’t sedate them, but it can help take away a little bit of anxiety and adrenaline. I’ve used this for quite a few horses now and it can really help them to just not run round as much so things don’t escalate,” she says.

Gemma adds that she tends to see the most problems occur when horses have been isolated for 14 days for biosecurity reasons when arriving at a new yard.

“This approach does increase the risk of problems as you’re more likely to get ‘post-inhibitory rebound’, a process where a behaviour is performed to excess following a period of restriction,” she explains.

“I personally would avoid isolating horses prior to introducing them to a new herd. We still need to consider all the biosecurity aspects so owners should speak to their vets and yard owner about what’s going to work best for that premises. Some yards may accept a guttural pouch lavage (a diagnostic procedure to detect the presence of strangles) before moving to a new yard, and I believe the strangles vaccine could be really promising in reducing the prevalence of strangles in the future.

“In terms of diseases, a lot is going to depend on where a horse has come from on what the risk is. A horse from a dealer’s yard that’s spent a lot of time travelling and hasn’t been on that yard very long is going to be higher risk than a horse that’s been at a private yard for maybe 10 years and hasn’t been anywhere, so it’s important to take individual circumstances into consideration and discuss these with your vet and yard owner.”

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Access to good quality turnout is a must where equines are concerned. However, if you keep your horses in a field with a public footpath or bridleway, you may have a few apprehensions.

“These range from inappropriate feeding and even harm from the public, to concern regarding the risk to walkers should the horse be aggressive,” remarks Naomi Newell, Senior Associate in the Property Disputes Team at Birketts LLP.

So, what risks are horses in a field with a public footpath exposed to? H&H spoke to Naomi and to Mark Weston, Director of Access at the British Horse Society (BHS). We asked what owners need to consider and got practical advice for safeguarding yourself, your horse and the wider public.

Horses in a field with a public footpath: what to bear in mind

Security

Owners with horses in a field with a public footpath must ensure that gates are secure enough to contain their livestock while giving easy access to the public. Naomi says to install any gates with the local highway authority’s consent, and to ensure nothing obstructs the route.

If you wish to fence either side of the route, Naomi has more pointers.

“Electric fencing next to a public right of way is only acceptable if insulated, and there are regular warning signs for the public,” she says. “The width of a public path may or may not be recorded on the Council’s legal records. Therefore, you should discuss the width of a fenced route with the local rights of way officer.”

“The BHS recommends putting up polite notices to remind people to leave gates as they find them or follow instructions on signs,” adds Mark. “This aligns with the Countryside Code.”

Appropriate fieldmates

Horse owners must consider their own duty to the public.

“Owners have the important responsibility not to keep a horse known to be potentially dangerous in a field crossed by a right of way,” warns Naomi. “This could result in a prosecution and is a serious responsibility.”

Mark of the BHS adds: “We strongly recommend against keeping stallions in a field through which rights of way pass, especially if unfamiliar horses access your land.”

Public feeding

Horse & Hound has reported widely on public feeding, which remains an issue even for horses who don’t share turnout with a public right of way.

“While many people act with no malicious intent, they’re often unaware of the risks,” explains Mark. “As we know, certain foods, such as grass cuttings, can cause illness for horses and feeding can lead to fighting within a herd.”

Owners and carers can erect polite signs requesting people not to feed the horses, with an explanation as to why.

“If you’re concerned the public is feeding your horses, you can contact the BHS Horse Care and Welfare Helpline on 02476 840517,” adds Mark. The charity can offer guidance and advice, as well as a range of English and Welsh signs at bhs.org.uk/behorseaware.

Dogs

Naturally, walkers who neglect to control their dogs can pose a threat to all livestock.

“Unfortunately, negative incidents involving horses and dogs can happen far too often,” says Mark. “The BHS continues to advise and educate dog walkers. We urge them to keep their dog under control, ideally on a lead, around horses.

“If your horse has been involved in an incident with a dog, report it to the police and record it through the BHS Horse i app. This helps give us a greater understanding of the scale of this issue, and lobby for greater change.”

Trespassing

Even if you keep horses in a field with a public footpath, individuals can still trespass.

“A user who is not on the line of the public right of way is trespassing over private land,” says Naomi. “Similarly, if the person is entering onto your private land or leaning over a boundary feature (like a fence, hedge or gate) into your private land, that person is likely to be trespassing.”

Some instances of trespass can be a criminal offence, and you should contact the police. However, it may also carry civil liability that you should take legal advice on.

“Bringing trespass proceedings in the civil courts is often an expensive exercise,” remarks Naomi. “So, it will be very important to keep that in mind depending upon the persistence and severity of the trespass,” advises Naomi. “Ultimately, you would end up with an order that you could look to enforce against the third party if necessary.

What if you’re not the landowner and someone trespasses on your horse’s field?

“You may have a contractual claim against your landlord if they are subject to obligations within your agreement to protect the land or horses from interference,” says Naomi. “You should ask a solicitor to check the terms of your agreement to see whether this avenue could be pursued.

Above all, it is best for all concerned if the landowner clearly signposts rights of way. The signs must adhere to the path’s true alignment and observe the legal width of the route.

“Define the route on the land if necessary to avoid confusion over where the public can pass,” advises Naomi. “Seek help from the local rights of way officer with this.”

What happens if my horse injures someone?

According to Naomi, if your horse causes a person harm or damage, you may be found liable in negligence.

“This means you owed a duty of care and failed in that duty.”

Naomi adds that you may also be held liable under the Animals Act 1971. This states that animal owners carry strict liability if a third party is injured by the animal.

“The Act is widely considered to be poorly drafted and there are some defences available under the Act. It’s very important to take prompt legal advice if a claim is brought against you,” she adds.

Additionally, if you feel your horse has caused damage to a third party as a result of their disturbance of him, it would be difficult to prove that they should, in fact, have primary liability.

“These sorts of proceedings are often complicated, and you should take legal advice.”

The BHS urges anyone who owns or looks after a horse to carry public liability insurance cover.

“BHS Gold members receive public liability insurance cover, up to £30 million,” explains Mark. “This helps to give financial peace of mind should your horse injure a member of the public on a public right of way.”

What happens if someone’s actions cause injury to my horse?

Firstly, you should enquire with your insurer.

“Can the policy pay out for vet bills? Do you have legal expenses cover? Additionally, what’s the impact on your insurance premium going forward? The latter point may well be the extent of the responsible person’s liability to repay you,” says Naomi.

Secondly, while the law may offer some recourse, there may be other difficulties. These include:

• Identifying the person responsible for causing the injury to your horse.
• Finding an address for that person to serve legal proceedings.
• Proving causation.

“Assuming for a moment that you identify and track the person responsible, they will put you firmly to proof on why it was their actions that caused the horse’s injury,” adds Naomi.

“Undoubtedly, you will need expert evidence to help you prove at court that your horse was injured directly as a result of the person’s actions.”

• To stay up to date with all the breaking news from major shows throughout 2025, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

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Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

Providing the best stable environment for your horse is high on any owner’s list of priorities. While many of us would opt for extensive and unrestricted turnout for our equine friends given the choice, many horses spend increased hours in the stable this time of year for a number of reasons – yard turnout rules, frozen or poached ground, or even a period of box rest following injury or illness.

While we know that providing our horses with freedom to move, graze and socialise gives them optimal conditions to function healthily, long-term solutions to limited turnout such as paddock regeneration or a yard move, take time to implement. However, there are plenty of short-term fixes you can action now to improve your horse’s stable environment…

1. Clean between the mats

Most of us have morning mucking out down to a fine art and transforming a dung-strewn stable into a well-formed bed takes just minutes. Even in that short time, though, your nose probably becomes desensitised to the pungent ammonia smell that emanates from dirty bedding.

Ammonia, an alkaline gas, is an irritant which is produced when urea in your horse’s urine is broken down by enzymes that digest it. Prolonged exposure to ammonia is linked to irritation to the skin and lungs, which is why removing urine-soaked bedding is so important to stable hygiene.

Soiled bedding loves to congregate in the cracks between rubber matting and it’s easy to miss it sneaking under there and building up. Next time you muck out, push your horse’s bed back, peel back the edge of your mat and see what you can dig out with the end of a fork and broom. Not only is it super-satisfying – TikTok is definitely missing mucking out ASMR – but removing the festering, ammonia-producing bacteria will help sanitise the air in your stable environment, too.

2. Get scrubbing

Cleaning your horse’s water buckets is a no-brainer, but is one of those jobs you miss in a hurry. However, algae can form quickly and some varieties produce harmful toxins, so regular scrubbing is a must.

It’s straightforward to spot and clean a dirty water bucket, but automatic drinking systems can be harder to keep track of. As a rule, the bowl should be emptied and cleaned as regularly as you would a bucket. The easiest method is to let it drain into a bucket below the trough and scrub while elevating the float so it doesn’t refill. Be sure you regularly check the delivery system, too, which should be accessible under the cover. You might need a screwdriver to get into it, though!

3. Rearrange your wall-drobe

Tack room space is often scarce and making several trips to and from it is a chore, so many of us store rugs, bandages and boots in our stables for ease and to reclaim some space. Over time, these items attract dust and hay spores, which contaminate the stable environment. Take them outside today and give them a shake, but also consider whether all of these items are in regular circulation. When was the last time you used that one smelly stable rug? Or the white tendon boots? If they’re not in common use, give them a wash and store them elsewhere. You can even vacuum pack them to save space and keep them fresh.

4. Make forage fun

It’s not just cleanliness that’s important – lack of mental stimulation can lead to boredom, stress and the rise of stable vices. The best stable toys, treat balls and licks work well, but if you’re calorie conscious or your horse is accident prone then hiding fibre nuts or carrots in his hay ration will help give him something to engage his brain. Quarter the carrots lengthwise to make a little go a long way.

5. Take a walk

Perhaps you don’t have time to squeeze in a ride or you’re inadvertently ten minutes ahead of schedule? Use that time to pop your horse in a turnout or lunge pen, even the school if your yard allows, so he can stretch his legs and have a good roll. He’ll definitely appreciate a change of scene. Or take him for a hand walk, on or off yard, and let him investigate verges and hedgerows for a quick snack. It’ll be most welcome if he’s on fewer grazing hours at the moment.

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For horses with respiration problems HORSLYX Repiratory Lick may help provide some relief

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While turnout is a really important part of a horse’s management, it can be a worrying time for some horse owners – and the best turnout boots for horses could alleviate some of the concerns. Turnout boots can provide a protective barrier against mud fever, overreaching and knocks. They also keep legs cleaner and drier, which not only saves time but helps to maintain healthy skin.

Some styles offer more protection from knocks than others, so if your main concern is injury, then a tougher boot would be preferable to a pair of chaps. It’s also important to choose a water-resistant and breathable boot, as if they hold water they’ll end up doing more harm than good. It’s also advisable to wash and change the turnout boots regularly to prevent rubbing, so a pair that is easy to hose or machine washable and quick to dry is certainly beneficial.

Best turnout boots for horses

Woof Wear Mud Fever Turnout Boots

Sizes: S–XL

These breathable boots create a barrier to mud from below the knee to the base of the heel. They are made of a waterproof and breathable fabric around the cannon bone to prevent overheating and feature a close-fitting hoof capsule with Kevlar reinforced heel protection. They also have a shaped PU strike pad that offers protection against brushing. Suitable for front and hind legs, they are machine washable at 30°C.

Premier Equine Turnout/Mud Fever Boots

Sizes: S–XL

These high-cut boots, which cover the whole lower leg and pastern, are made with Air-Tech ventilated neoprene for maximum breathability. They are anatomically shaped to be comfortable and supportive, and have excellent stretch and recovery properties that allow the boot to mould and retain shape without impeding the natural action. They can be used on both front and hind legs and are suitable for use year round, but should be swapped every 12 hours to prevent rubbing.

Equilibrium Equi-Chaps Close Contact Chaps

Sizes: XS–XL

These chaps are said to fit like a second skin with four-way stretch, the close contact chaps mould to your horse’s legs from below the knee or hock, all the way down to the coronet band. There are nine different sizes, including some slim and wide fits. While the main function of these is to keep legs clean, they also offer protection against both brushing and overreaching. They can be machine washed at 30°C and are quick to dry.

LeMieux Turnout Boots

Sizes: S–XL

Made of antibacterial ventilated neoprene to avoid rubbing and sweat build-up, these boots have elasticated and angled straps to allow for movement and optimum fit. They feature a durable skid cap that positions the boot correctly on back of the joint. They can be hosed off or machine washed, and can be used on front or hind legs.

Shires Arma Deluxe Mud Socks

Sizes: Small pony – extra-full

These mud socks are ergonomically shaped to ensure a close, comfortable fit. They are made of dense neoprene that offers protection against bumps and scrapes, while the airflow perforations help prevent legs from overheating. They are suitable for front or hind legs.

You might also be interested in:

Best barrier creams for protection against wet and mud

Turnout boots: what are the pros and cons?

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Horse & Hound magazine, out every Thursday, is packed with all the latest news and reports, as well as interviews, specials, nostalgia, vet and training advice. Find how you can enjoy the magazine delivered to your door every week, plus options to upgrade your subscription to access our online service that brings you breaking news and reports as well as other benefits.

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

How can we maximise the benefits of field time, while minimising risk? Kieran O’Brien MRCVS offers advice for trouble-free turnout

Horses in their natural state are free-ranging, social animals. While separate confinement in a stable is necessary if they are to be individually fed and managed, maximum turnout, where possible, should be provided.

Turnout reduces the risk of colic, respiratory diseases and the development of stereotypical behaviour, while supporting muscle and joint health. Grazing in groups allows coordinated patterns of movement, social experience and mutual grooming, all of which are vitally important for the welfare of animals ill-adapted to a solitary life.

There are negative aspects, however, the most significant being increased risk of injury. In a survey of 652 UK owners, 40% reported that their horses had suffered a traumatic injury in the previous year – 62% of which occurred while at grass. Results showed that horses grazed in a large group or recently introduced to the herd were most vulnerable. Kicks or incidents with field fencing were the most common causes of injury.

Other hazards at grass include exposure to biting flies and intestinal parasites, and obesity and laminitis due to excessive grass intake – all of which can be avoided with careful planning.

Taking sides

Interaction across a fence – often with a mare on one side and a gelding on the other – is probably the most common cause of fence-related injuries.

One horse typically strikes out through the fence. It is safer to separate such groups by placing a strand of electric wire along the top of the fence or, better still, a strand near the top on each side. Horses will then come close to the fence but will not lean over.

Alternatively, a separate, single-strand electric fence can be erected on one side, parallel to the main fence. This also stops hungry horses leaning through the fence to access grass on the other side.

Sheep fencing is especially dangerous and should only be used with an additional safeguard.

A gate between fields is another contact point. Although useful for “pre-exposure” of a new horse to others, a gate should be “sheeted” to prevent limb injury if a horse kicks through it. Attach plastic stockboard sheets with strong cable ties, ensuring they overlap by at least 15cm.

Shock tactics

Electric fences allow paddocks to be divided cheaply and safely. They can be used to separate horses and thus prevent kicking, to limit the grazing area for weight and laminitis control, and to restrict space for horses being rehabilitated from injury.

With a little thought, electric fencing can be made as safe as possible. Otherwise, injuries can occur – and may be very severe. Apart from stake wounds from the plastic posts, most injuries happen when the horse becomes entangled in the fencing.

An electric fence should have two properties: it should hurt when touched, and should break easily if a horse runs or kicks through it or rolls into it.

Horses will only respect an electric fence if it gives them a suffifficiently severe shock when they touch it. Manufacturers of the energisers, which power the fence, say that a weak or absent shock is in 90% of cases due to failure to earth (ground) the fence properly. The earth stake should be as long as possible and pushed its whole length into the ground.

A good tip is to pour a bucket of water over the stake when it is in the ground to ensure good contact, and to keep it wet. The fence must be regularly checked for contact with vegetation, which reduces the strength of the pulse.

Choose an energiser with the highest output you can afford. Two rechargeable batteries (one in use, and one charged and ready when required) are the minimum needed.

There is no need for the fence to be strong; the risk of an electric shock is what deters the horse, and it is not intended that the fence restrains the horse physically. If he runs through it, the fence should break rather than be dragged and eventually become wrapped around the horse’s legs.

It is generally agreed that plain metal electrified wire should not be used with horses,

as it is virtually unbreakable. It follows that, except in very windy sites where there may be no alternative, electric fence rope – which is extremely strong – may also be inappropriate. The thin plastic string breaks most easily; concerns about its visibility are overstated.

One has to question why, except in the case of small ponies, more than one strand of fencing is required. Using two or three strands presents more opportunities for the fence to fail to break, or to wrap around the horse’s legs if he goes through it.

Breakpoints are easy to make using two cable ties. This method works well for the narrow tape and rope, but experiment to see how tight the cable ties must be for your fence to slide through the breakpoint when force is applied.

Safety first

In any group of horses, there is a social hierarchy enforced mostly by threat – using often quite subtle body language, rather than violence. Kick injuries are common when new arrivals join the group, or when lower-ranking horses fail to respond to threats.

Sometimes, a horse simply cannot get out of the way quickly enough.

Lower leg wounds and overreaches from a forelimb being struck by a hindleg can be prevented by putting boots on the horse before turnout.

Tendon boots do not prevent tendon overstrain injuries but, if they contain a rigid band at the back, will protect the tendons from being struck into. Soft neoprene boots provide some protection against brushing but little else.

Loss of shoes can be prevented by shoeing the horse “tighter”, so the shoe does not protrude beyond the heels at the back, and by shortening the usual shoeing interval by a minimum of a week.

Another option is to turn the horse out in overreach boots (choose one size larger than normal, so they reach the ground), or to wrap the forefeet with duct tape to cover any part of the shoes extending beyond the heels.

Turnout tips

Take the following steps to help to keep horses out of trouble:

● Keep the group size as small as possible (pairs of horses are a ideal) and the composition stable. Avoid moving horses between groups.

● Aim for a large age spread within the group. There is more aggression when horses of a similar age, such as yearlings, are kept together.

● Turn out a newcomer on his own fifirst, so that he can familiarise himself with the paddock layout. Then slowly add the others, one at a time, starting with the less dominant.

● If possible, remove the hind shoes when first introducing horses to each other. Turnout rugs may offer protection from kicks and blows.

● Identify the aggressive repeat offffenders and graze them separately, preferably with a much lower ranking horse who knows to keep out of the way.

● Check there are no places where lower-ranking horses can become trapped and bullied. Rounding offff paddock corners will help.

● Keep the sexes apart. There is far less kicking when geldings are kept separate from mares.

Also published in H&H 4 March 2021

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Turnout for the performance horse is often met with conflicting opinions, particularly in winter. Dee So’oialo of Dynamic Sports Performance explains the anatomical benefits behind field time...

For owners of performance horses, finding the balance between their equine “doing a job” and “being a horse” can be difficult, with the job often taking priority. Plus in winter, practicality or yard rules often dictate whether it is possible to turn out our competition horses.

However, even with sufficient turnout options, many professionals in the northern hemisphere have long favoured keeping their horses stabled in winter, believing the potential dangers of the paddock outweigh the benefits. A combination of this risk and the desire to keep competition horses immaculately presented has created a norm of performance horses often not being turned out at all in winter and insufficiently in summer.

But times appear to be changing, with top riders beginning to recognise the benefits of regular turnout. Living out or allowing turnout for short periods to offer breaks in a competition schedule is growing in popularity, with riders reporting positive effects on their horses’ mental wellbeing, reduced stiffness and a lower rate of stable vices.

There are a growing number of solutions to the impracticality of winter turnout. Many yards use field matting or hardcore around muddy gates and walkways. Paddocks are the ideal, but all-weather turnout pens or time out in the arena with a haynet are alternatives, providing the horse with a change of scene from the four walls of their stable, allowing them to wander and unwind.

Working with horses and riders in all disciplines, I can see that getting the best out of a horse comes down to knowing them and treating them as an individual. The vast majority of performance horses enjoy their job and are treated like royalty, but if 2020 taught us anything it is that no matter how nice the palace, we all need to escape those four walls and have some freedom sometimes.

Regular turnout for performance horses also offers benefits anatomically. A horse is designed to move – like us, if we’re stuck in an office chair, barely moving for 23 hours a day, we’re unlikely to perform at our best athletically.

Muscles and fascia (connective tissue) create movement and determine skeletal support by the strength, length and tone of these tissues. Muscle fibres alternate between one another for rest and work, allowing them to recover efficiently, and not overwork one specific area. The vast web of fascia links every muscle, bone, organ, ligament, tendon and blood vessel together, and the pivotal role of this system is being increasingly recognised, but there is still little research in horses. Understanding it is changing the way we train human athletes, and so we should be identifying this within our equine counterparts, who are arguably more at risk of injury due to the inability to communicate verbally.

The fascia not only responds to damage, but also emotional stress. Healthy fascia should glide smoothly to aid range of movement (ROM), but when stressed it becomes inflexible and hard. This constriction leads to limited movement, pain and muscular tension which affects ROM in other areas, causing secondary issues that can be harder to treat. Stable vices, which often have stress as their root cause, and a lack of movement can impede the horse’s ability to work at his optimum, increasing the risk of soft tissue damage, thus further promoting the value of turnout.

International dressage rider Lara Butler believes in the benefits of turnout whatever the horse’s level or value.

“Time out in the field or even just hand-grazing is so good; it allows them to get their head down and be a horse,” she says. “The older horses have some time in the field every day, when the ground is good, for mental stimulation – and it is definitely reflected in their work.

“In winter, we hand-graze when the fields are too wet. They always leave the stable for a second time to use the water treadmill, go hacking, or for further grazing. The younger horses spend most of the day in the field.”

One of Lara’s top horses, Amiek C (Ampy), has a paddock to use year-round.

“Ampy must go out daily regardless of the weather to keep him sane,” she says.

Many performance horses are imported from Europe, where winter conditions also compromise turnout facilities. Netherlands-based Team GBR rider Lottie Fry allocates turnout to her horses on an individual basis.

“It is dependent on the horse’s needs, there is no set routine,” says Lottie. “You have to know the horse.”

With over 60 ridden horses at Lottie’s base, the Van Olst stables, it is vital the team have options to suit the needs of each horse.

“All the horses go on the walker every day and the water treadmill once a week to break up their routine,” Lottie says. “[My European ride] Dark Legend has a small field, which he is out in all winter as it helps his mind.”

In the southern hemisphere, turnout is encouraged – as described by New Zealand dressage rider Sarah Wilkinson.

“In New Zealand, my family are involved in racing and no matter the value of the racehorse, they are all turned out,” she says. “I’ve never had a horse colic there, but when I was in Germany there were more horses injured in the stable and more displayed signs of colic than at home.”

Back in the UK, Yorkshire-based racehorse trainer Ruth Carr is an avid believer in turnout. She turns all her racehorses out together in herds of up to 18 geldings for six hours daily.

“Mentally it is something for them to look forward to and keeps them interested and racing for longer,” Ruth explains. “They do get kicks and bites, but it’s manageable and the benefits of loosening off and snot naturally draining outweigh this.”

From a veterinary perspective, Team GBR’s showjumping vet Robrecht Cnockaert is an advocate of turnout.

“Turnout is an extremely important part of the physical and emotional wellbeing of most sport horses,” he says. “Are there risks? Yes, but many people don’t factor the increased risks that are inherent when a horse is not allowed to have access to the fresh air, sunlight and unrestricted freedom for which they have evolved. Issues such as increased risk of colic, higher incidence of vices, respiratory and circulatory conditions as well as general stiffness can be attributed to lack of turnout.”

Owners must calculate the pros and cons based on individual horses and their facilities – every option will pose some degree of risk. From my point of view as a soft-tissue therapist, it is fantastic to see attitudes towards turnout changing among professional riders. Turnout throughout winter offers many benefits for performance horses and is now highly advocated by industry professionals across the country and abroad. Hopefully, attitudes of owners and riders will continue to shift, with even more performance horses being offered access to these benefits.

It is not just the views within equestrian sport people must consider, but those of the public watching our elite equine athletes on the world stage. It is vital the world sees that enabling a horse to “be a horse” is just as important to us as their “job”.

Ref: 7 January 2021

Soft tissue therapist to some of the best horse and rider combinations, and working alongside top experts in their field, Dee So’oialo (née Holdsworth) is making her mark on equestrian athletic performance. Dee is one of only 20 therapists in the UK to be qualified in rider and equine fascial manipulation and combining performance analysis with rider strength and conditioning. Dee heads up Dynamic Sports Performance, which supports optimal rider and equine athletic performance and aims to change the way we think about the horse and rider relationship.

dynamicsportsperformance.co.uk

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Some horses become so excited at the prospect of grass, open space or joining the herd that they seem to forget you’re still at the other end of the rope. If you’ve ever been dragged to the gate or watched your horse hurtle off, his partly unbuckled headcollar flapping, you’ll know how frustrating — and potentially dangerous — this can be.

If you have the luxury of some variation, use it to your advantage, says Polly Bursby, instructor and part-owner of an 80-horse livery yard and riding school.

“Avoid turning out at the same time each day or into the same paddock. Alter the routine so the horses aren’t anticipating going out,” she says.

Polly adds that a lot depends on how the horse feels — is he hungry or craving company?

“Find out what the motivation is and adjust your behaviour accordingly,” she says.

Sean Burgess, producer and event rider, believes in bribery!

“With a difficult horse, I often take a titbit so it waits for that before you let go of it,” he says. “A chiffney doesn’t really work because horses take off with them on or in a struggle you can catch them in the teeth.”

Pam Tetley, national hunt trainer and horse transporter, is similarly wary.

“Using a chiffney is the easiest way to break a jaw,” she says. “I always use a lunge rein, wear gloves and turn the horse towards me — they’re the obvious things. Then I’ve found a type of metal cavesson I call a ‘loader’ and it’s saved my bacon lots of times.”

These are also known as studs or stallion rings and, though quite specialist, can be bought from some saddlery shops in the UK.

“It swivels to keep the nose down and the horse can’t get away from it,” explains Pam. “It’s much easier to put on than a chiffney because it’s not going in the mouth — it’s just like a headcollar — and once the horse feels it, he doesn’t give you a problem.”

A cheaper investment would be an extra long leadrope. Most ropes in the UK are just under 6ft, which leaves you right by the horse’s hindlegs if he tries to take off and means that you are probably forced to let go if he rears or shoots backwards. If you tend to get tangled up in a lunge line, buy an 8ft or 12ft rope.

If all else fails, you can attempt to avoid the problem entirely.

“Sometimes, if a horse is difficult to turn out I ride him right into the paddock, dismount and take his tack off there. He might gallop off but you haven’t got the difficulty of getting him there,” says Polly Bursby.

• This feature was first published in Horse & Hound (12 August)

Q. I have three mares and a friend is going to be keeping her two geldings in livery at my yard from this spring. All the horses will go out all day. Some experts say you shouldn’t turn mares and geldings out together. Should I separate them using electric fencing (I only have one six-acre field), or should I just try them together and see what happens?

Kate Skirrow, yard manager at Oaklands College, answers: I prefer to keep mares and geldings in separate fields, as this tends to limit problems such as geldings fighting for dominance and flirting mares.

Also, if your mares have lived happily in a small herd, and the geldings have bonded, it may be tempting fate to try to put them all in together!

As you have ample grazing for all five horses, I would recommend you divide the field into two with electric fencing. Ideally you should have two rows of electric fencing with a corridor of two to three metres in between, so the horses can see each other and communicate without contact.

If you do decide to put the horses together, the next step is to remove one strand of the fencing, so the horses can touch one another over the fence. This is the time to watch out for any aggressive behaviour, and also to ensure that the power to the fence is strong – many horses are injured by poor electric fences.

Give the horses a few weeks with this degree of contact and, if you don’t experience any problems, remove the divide. Keep a watchful eye for signs of individuals being picked on, and don’t be afraid to go back to a divided field if problems arise.

Q: I’ve had my 11-year-old gelding for six weeks and he hates being turned out. He’s not being bullied by the other horses and he can’t be cold as I’ve put a new rug on him, but he stands at the fence looking longingly back at the stables. I know his previous owners did turn him out but they told me he is a bit of a loner and likes coming in.Can you help?

Sarah Bland, yard manager at Warwickshire College, replies: This problem is not uncommon, but people with horses that won’t settle in a stable will be jealous! I suspect his behaviour is due to a number of things:

• He may have been bullied in the past, and therefore stays away from other horses
• He may have spent much of his time in a stable, in which case it is a habit that will take time to change
• You’ve put him in strange surroundings and I expect there are similarities between his old stable and yours, which will give him some security over the first few weeks.

All horses will be unsettled by different surroundings. You seem to have understood him well – just give him a bit more time. Bit by bit, lengthen the period he is turned out. If he seems quiet and patient he will be fine.

It doesn’t sound as if he has a problem with the other horses he is turned out with, so there’s no point trying to create bonds as it might backfire on you.

If I were you, I’d appreciate what you have. With time you’ll find him happy to remain out, and you’ve got a horse that isn’t nappy or clingy and is happy to be in his stable!

Expert advice from HORSE magazine on the best way to introduce a new horse to his companions

Q: We are having problems introducing a gelding that has recently arrived at our yard to a mare and a gelding that are used to being turned out together.

We have turned the new horse out in a paddock next to the other two horses, but they seem unwilling to accept him and charge towards the fence if he approaches.

The horses will all eventually have to be turned out together, especially when the grazing becomes more restricted. How can we get the horses to accept each other so they can be turned out together safely?

Liz Clemence BHSII replies: Your settled horses are showing fairly normal behaviour towards the new arrival. It may take a short while for them to accept their prospective companion and establish a new pecking order. The gelding that has been turned out with the mare may also be rather protective of her.

Although there are exceptions, if you deal with this situation tactfully, you are unlikely to have any long-term problems. Create situations that allow the horses to become more familiar and accepting but with the minimum of risk:

• Turning the horses out in adjacent paddocks allows them a chance to become familiar with each other, while minimising the risk of injury.
• If possible, hack the horses out together so they becomemore comfortable with each other in a controlled environment.
• Turn the new horse out initially with just the gelding until they graze happily together, then turn him out with just the mare. This will allow him time to meet his new companions without competition.
• Turn them out when they are hungry and more likely to be interested in grass than in each other.
• When first turning horses out together, choose a day when the weather is fine and someone can keep an eye on them.

Protecting each horse’s legs with boots will offer some support and protection from injury should they kick or gallop about.

A further precaution, though not always practical if a horse is in regular work, is to remove the hind shoes until they are settled.

If the horses really do not accept each other, dividing the field using portable electric fencing is a reasonably cheap option that allows horses to be withinthe same field but without physical contact.

Read more expert advice on equine behavior:

• Understanding loss of performance
• Recognising stable vices
• The horse’s senses: Sight

Q. I’ve had my 11-year-old gelding for six weeks and he hates being turned out. He’s not being bullied by other horses and he can’t be cold as I’ve put a new rug on him, but he stands at the fence looking longingly back at the stables.

I know his previous owners did turn him out but they told me he is a bit of a loner and likes coming in. Can you help?

Sarah Bland, yard manager at Warwickshire College, answers: This problem is not uncommon but people with horses that won’t settle in a stable will be jealous!

I suspect his behaviour is due to a numberof things:

• He may have been bullied in the past, and therefore stays away from other horses.
• He may have spent much of his time in a stable, in which case it is a habit that will take time to change.
• You’ve put him in strange surroundings and I expect there are similarities between his old stable and yours, which will give him some security over the first few weeks.

All horses will be unsettled by different surroundings. You seem to have understood him well – just give him a bit more time. Bit by bit, lengthen the period he is turned out. In time you will find him happy to remain out or stay in his stable as you require.

Q: I own a three-year-old Welsh Section D gelding who jumps out of his field, to get to other horses.He goes straight over normal electric fencing and when we raised the height he went straight through it, despite getting zapped, and brought the whole fence down.

He respected the fence for a while after this but then I moved to a friend’s yard where the paddocks are sectioned with electric fencing. Back to his old tricks, he jumped into an empty paddock, so we took him back home. Then he jumped over some barbed wire and cut his back legs.

I don’t want to sell my gelding or stable him all the time, but renting a field on my own with 6ft high fencing is not an option. What can you suggest?

Islay Auty FBHS replies: You don’t mention whether your gelding jumps out when he is enclosed by a sturdy post and rail fence or thick hedge. While a few horses will still try and escape over these types of fencing, in my experience they are in a very small minority. Most horses respect solid, well-made fences or impenetrable hedges.

Electric fencing is used successfully for sub-dividing larger paddocks to restrict grazing or to segregate horses. When a horse is introduced to an electric fence for the first time it should be switched on. Encourage the horse to investigate the fence – he will usually sniff it and may touch it lightly with his nose. The sharp shock that he experiences should make him jump back and maybe snort and try to run away. Some brave horses will attempt a second encounter, but when the shock is repeated they learn to leave it alone.

Unfortunately, a small percentage of horses and ponies decide that the only way to deal with this shocking monster is to jump over it and occasionally they will barge through, as your own horse has. They quickly find that the shock is very short lived and they learn is that a swift barge through the fence renders it harmless.

I’m afraid it appears your youngster has not learned to respect electric fencing. Unfortunately, once a horse has decided that electric fences can be easily dealt with, there’s actually very little you can do except change the type of fencing.

I would advise you to keep your horse in as sturdy an enclosure as possible, even if this means investing in better fencing for your field.

There is a chance that if you put an electric fence in front of a good solid post and rail fence or hedge, he may learn to respect the electric fence because of the more solid outside parameter fence. There is no guarantee, however,that when you use the electric fence again in isolation he will not return to his old habits.

Q. A couple of months ago I bought a seven-year-old 15hh part-Thoroughbred mare for general work – hacking, schooling, a little jumping and the odd summer show. She is perfect in every way and we’ve had a lot of fun togther in the short time I’ve owned her.

The only problem is, she is virtually impossible to catch. She goes out for about six hours a day with her Shetland companion and then I bring both of them in at night.

I catch my Shetland first and then go back for her. I have tried carrying a bucket of feed and getting friends to help me but it still takes, on average, up to an hour to catch her. It seems like she is laughing at me.

I’m not sure whether she did this with her previous owners. Could it be that I’m doing something wrong?

A. To start with, make sure your horse is in good health and that she’s in no pain or discomfort which may cause her to be difficult to catch.

Partition off the field and turn your two horses out in a smaller area, giving your mare less room to run away. The easiest way to do this is to use electric fencing. This means you can move thesmaller paddock around the field so it doesn’t poach.

Then try one (or all) of the following methods to re-educate your horse into being caught.

Remember that every horse is an individual, so what will work with one horse may not necessarily work with another.

Probably the only time we go into our horse’s field is to fetch him in to ride, groom or do something else with him.

So what we have to do is change the expectation of our horse when he sees us come into the field. Settime aside to re-school your horse. Look on it the same way as riding lessons – they’re important and you need to make time for them.

Walk into the smaller paddock and straight back out again. Do this several times. Do not touch your horseseven if they come up to you. Then, walk in and drop pieces of apple or carrot on the ground and walk out.

If you do this often enough your horses may be inquisitive enough to approach you – but still do not touch them.

This is changing their expectation of seeing you enter their field. Then, when you have time to spare, take a book, a bucket and some carrots and apples. Drop the apples on the ground as usual then turn the bucket upside down, sit on it and start reading your book.

Remember, you are changing habits and you have to change the horse’s perception about what he thinks is going to happen. Keep him guessing!

So, let the horses approach you and totally ignore them. You should find that, before long, curiosity will get the better of them and they will come up to have a look at what you’re doing. The first few times this happens, do not touch the horses.

Then, slowly stroke the horses once before taking your hand away. As time passes you’ll be able to do this more. In time this will build up the relationship and confidence with you and your horses.

Sue Rawding, breeder and show producer on the art to catching.

“Some people are good at it and some people aren’t – you’ve got to be a bit of a psychologist.

“You need to go into the field with a relaxed, confident attitude. It’s important to be calm about it; sometimes, we have students who march in with ropes and headcollars, push the feed scoop out in front of them and wonder why the horses take off as soon as they see them.

“Walk in casually and don’t look the horse in the eye. Stop every now and again, pick a bit of grass, then go a bit farther and pick a bit more. The horse will become curious, and once he’s interested, you’re halfway there.”

Sue and her husband, John, run Church Farm Stud at Leighton Buzzard, Beds. Two of their show horses, the former Cob of the Year, Kilkenny Marble, and the hunter Reassurance can test unwary catchers.

“One wet September, Marble was in a field that had flooded,” she recalls. “A lad working here at the time went to catch him, but every time he got near him, Marble went into deeper water and splashed him. John was watching this and when he’d stopped laughing, called Marble, who trotted straight up to him – he has a sense of humour and knows when he can get away with things.

“Reassurance will play games and walk away, but if I don’t look at him and pick up and drop the nuts in the scoop, he always decides to have a look.”

Difficult horses are turned out in headcollars with 4ins loops on the back so that the rope can be quietly clipped on. “Never get hold of the headcollar quickly,” advises Sue, “because some horses will go up and take you with them.”

Horses are always rewarded with food so that they associate being caught with something pleasant. If a horse is difficult, Sue says it is worth spending time catching it, rewarding it and then walking away so that being caught does not automatically mean work.

“If a horse is really difficult, you might have to catch everything else in the field so that it doesn’t want to be left alone. If we get a difficult mare who has a special friend, we often find that if we catch the friend, we can catch her.”

Catching your horse can sometimes solve only part of the problem.

“There are some horses you can’t safely bring in on a headcollar,” says Sue. “You need to lead them in a bridle to have control and I always wear gloves. And if a horse is likely to try to charge off as soon as you reach the field, it’s safer to slip the rope through the headcollar rather than clip it on.”