Water buffets for horses have gained popularity recently thanks to the hot weather – although hydration is also important in winter – but what are they and why do people use them?

Simply put, water buffets involve offering horses multiple water buckets with different extra ingredients in each. Various retailers sell starter kits with herbs and other additions you can put in clean water buckets.

Independent equine nutritionist Clare MacLeod tells us: “Some owners are interested in using them as a way to offer their horses variety and environment enrichment.”

Offering variety, however, does not mean a horse will self-select particular nutrients in accordance with their needs.

“We have to remember that a number of horses and ponies are harmed every year by eating poisonous plants like acorn and ragwort, and some by eating too much grass,” says Clare.

“Self-selection is a nice idea and it is a good thing to offer horses more choice, but we cannot rely on our horses to always know what is good for them, nor be able to select a balanced diet. Researchers have shown that horses will consistently select a sweetened feed over a balanced feed.”

That said, Clare adds that it can be useful for finding out the flavourings your horse likes.

“Knowing what tastes they like means you can replicate their preferences when you are away from home at riding camps, clinics or competitions, when some horses may be reluctant to drink different water.”

What to put in water buffets for horses

Herbs that are commonly added to water buffets include:

• Chamomile
• Ginger
• Turmeric
• Peppermint
• Cleavers
• Fenugreek
• Rosehips
• Dandelions
• Aniseed
• Fennel
• Cinnamon
• Garlic 
• Spirulina
• Cider apple vinegar

Other common additions are clays and a variety of mineral salts, and sometimes fruit and vegetable pieces or fruit juice.

Golden rules of setting up a water buffet

Clare says that, at best, a water buffet adds variety and interest to your horse’s day-to-day. At worst, water buffets for horses can be a breeding ground for bacteria and potentially do more harm than good.

Clare’s rules of thumb to follow when setting up a water buffet are:

1. Keep buckets clean

“When I visit yards, I see a lot of water sources that are unclean,” says Clare. “While horses will happily drink from a puddle, there is a distinction to be made between a pool of natural rainwater and a dirty container of water that is stagnant and stale.

“Keeping buckets of water clean is especially important when you start mixing organic matter. You can create a lot of bacteria, which I’m not sure people always realise.”

According to Clare, horses are particularly susceptible to digestive disturbances, such as colic, due to their delicate digestive tracts.

“Therefore, we want to keep contact with preventable bacteria and potential pathogens to a minimum.”

2. Balance the diet

“Everything a horse ingests should be considered as part of a balanced diet,” says Clare.

“We always need to balance the diet first, considering any extras like what's added to water, then consider adding extras like herbs, which are generally added for their properties, and not essential nutrients.

“Speak to an independent nutritionist about what you plan to use if you aren’t sure.”

3. Plain water is essential

Clean, plain water should be offered at all times and as well as water with added ingredients.

Does a water buffet make horses drink more?

Some owners use water buffets to encourage their horses to drink more water, which could help support good hydration and prevent dehydration.

“We have research that tells us horses prefer things that taste sweet,” she says. “So, if you are in a situation where you really need your horse to drink, adding something sweet like apple juice will likely be the most attractive flavouring.

“Of course, you need to be guided by any underlying conditions your horse or pony might have. You wouldn't want to be tipping an unknown amount of sugar into the water of a horse with equine metabolic syndrome (EMS), which now often described as insulin dysregulation (ID) or hyperinsulinaemia-associated laminitis (HAL), for example.

“If your main aim is to rehydrate your horse, for example after heavy sweating, then the quickest and most efficient way to do this is with an oral rehydration solution (ORS), which has a very specific electrolyte salt content, at 0.9%.”

While she is for anything that represents positive enrichment in a horse’s environment, Clare adds that owners would benefit from ensuring their time is spent doing so in the best possible way for their horses.

“In some cases, the time spent keeping multiple water buffet buckets clean and fresh every day might be better used taking your horse out for more exercise.”

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As those living in the UK are in the midst of yet another heatwave, and some water companies have announced hosepipe bans, where does this leave horse owners who are trying to keep horses cool and prevent dehydration?

Currently, some customers of Southern Water, South East Water and Cambridge Water are facing water usage restrictions. Anglian Water customers will also be under restriction from 1am Saturday, 11 July.

Affinity Water has also put a hosepipe ban in place across its Central area, which covers parts of Bedfordshire, Berkshire, Buckinghamshire, Essex, Hertfordshire, Surrey and parts of London – this will come into effect on Friday, 17 July.

Other areas are not currently affected, but some water companies, such as Severn Trent, have asked customers to be mindful of their usage and issued guidance on how to reuse water where possible.

Hosepipe ban exemptions?

The good news is that while the rules outlaw the use of hosepipes for washing cars and watering gardens, the use of a hosepipe for the cleaning, maintenance and general wellbeing of any kind of animal is exempt from hosepipe ban rules.

The Government requires that the welfare of animals must be protected at all times, including during a hosepipe ban – or as it is more correctly called a Temporary Use Ban (TUB).

What is allowed during a hosepipe ban?

Examples of what is allowed under the TUB restrictions include:

• Washing horses down with a hosepipe
• Filling up water troughs and buckets with a hosepipe
• Cleaning out lorries, trailers and stables with a hosepipe

As long as you are genuinely using a hosepipe for the welfare of your horse and not abusing the interpretation of these rules, you should have no concerns. Responsible use of water is encouraged at the stables, as it is in your homes, to avoid putting added pressure on the supply during this period of high temperatures with little no rain forecast.

If you’d like further reassurance or information, you can contact your local water company for clarification.

• For unlimited access to advice on how best to care for your horse, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

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The best cooler rugs for horses are typically multi-purpose. Their main purpose is to aid cooling after exercise, but they are often also used to keep horses cool while travelling and to speed drying and prevent chilling after bathing.

It is absolutely essential that the best cooler rugs for horses are breathable and possess effective wicking properties to do a good job. Some are even designed to be soaked in water in order to lower your horse’s temperature, we’ve grouped these together – jump down to water-activated cooler rugs for hot weather.

Best cooler rugs for horses

Best water activated cooler rugs for horses

These technical rugs are great for cooling horses down in warm weather, ideal for use as part of your post-cooling exercise routine, those horses who dislike hoses or when water is limited.

This cooling rug is designed to rapidly draw heat away from the horse’s body, providing up to 5.9°C of cooling without soaking your horse. It is made from a high tech, breathable open cell structure material, which is designed to effectively absorb and store water. It has front Velcro, a single belly surcingle with plastic buckle fastening and fillet string for added security. Available with or without a neck cover.

How to use: Just soak in water until it is fully saturated, wring, and drape for comfortable cooling after exercise, travel, or on warm days. It has a contoured and shaped cooling area to cover large muscle groups across the back and hindquarters with direct contact, with lightweight lower mesh panels enhance airflow and evaporation, making the cooling process more efficient.

You can reactivate it with water as many times as needed. Equilibrium advises not allowing the rug to dry out while on your horse.

This water-activated rug is designed to aid gentle surface cooling. It features embedded crystals that absorb cold water, creating a prolonged cooling effect as it evaporates, actively drawing heat away from key muscle groups. Anatomically shaped cooling panels maximise contact across the back and hindquarters, delivering targeted cooling where it’s needed most.

The lightweight breathable mesh shell fabric encourages airflow to aid in heat dissipation and evaporation. It has a single buckle front closure, adjustable single surcingle and soft fillet strap keep the rug secure.

How to use: Before the first use you need to soak the rug for two hours to activate the crystals. It can be re-activated multiple times by soaking in water for up to one hour. LeMieux recommends soaking in water at 15° or lower for optimum cooling effect. Remove the rug from your horse once the cooling crystals have reached ambient body temperature.

This breathable cooling rug uses water to help cool down the horse on hot summer days. This rug is only secured with a clip fastener at the chest and a fillet string. Neck cover available separately.

How to use: The rug comes with a practical bag that can be dipped in a bucket of water along with the rug – then just wring out the rug and lay it on your horse’s back. You can reactivate with water as many times as needed.

What is wicking material?

Wicking material draws moisture away from the body and is frequently used in technical clothing as well as rugs and saddle pads. Wicking moisture away from the body to the top of the fabric (where it can evaporate) helps keep you (or your horse) cool. Wicking material is an essential when it comes to the best cooler rugs.

If you (or your horse) are exercising and the moisture (sweat) isn’t removed, the body won’t be able to cool itself properly, while if you stop exercising and the moisture stays on the skin, the body will get cold.

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The best way to cool horses is sometimes debated in the equestrian community. Thankfully, there is a straight answer to the constant discussion between horse owners of to scrape or not to scrape – and it’s backed by science.

Heat is a major by-product of energy production and muscle function during exercise, with the amount of heat generated increasing in line with the intensity of a horse’s work. Therefore, cooling after the exertion of competition is extra important. But why?

The best way to cool horses can save lives

During exercise, a horse only uses a small proportion of stored energy to work his muscles. The rest is lost as heat through the metabolism of the stored energy. This causes heat build-up in the body, so controlling that body temperature, i.e. cooling the horse, is essential to avoid heat exhaustion.

A horse’s normal core body temperature at rest should be between 37.5°C and 38.5°C. When this rises to a dangerous level above 41°C to 42°C, you will see side effects and signs of heat exhaustion. These can range from excessively high heart and respiratory rates to dehydration, fatigue and poor recovery from exercise.

If left untreated, heat exhaustion can develop into heatstroke — a condition in which the body is unable to regulate its own temperature. This can ultimately lead to multi-organ dysfunction, including kidney and liver failure, abnormal heart rhythm, loss of coordination and, in severe cases, death.

The power of evaporation

Evaporative cooling — losing heat through the skin by sweating — is the most important way a horse controls his body temperature during and after exercise. Water from sweat evaporates into the air, taking heat energy with it.

Additionally, about 30% of heat loss occurs through the lungs and respiratory tract during normal breathing.

These methods of heat loss are at their most efficient when the difference between the skin temperature and the surrounding air temperature is greatest, such as in cool, dry weather.

Cooling by sweat evaporation is less effective in hot and humid conditions, because the surrounding air is already saturated with water. That means the difference between air and skin temperature is minimal, so evaporation is much less effective.

Sweat starts to drip from the body but removes just 5-10% of the heat that would have been lost through evaporation.

Should you scrape a horse off after hosing?

While scraping water off a warm horse will do him no harm, it will slow the cooling process in a dangerously hot horse. Therefore, the best way to cool horses at the end of intense exercise or competition is to apply copious amounts of cold water over his whole body, without scraping it off.

But how does this work?

Research has shown that applying cold water (9°C) to a horse after exercise in hot, humid conditions helps bring core body temperature back down to normal faster than using tepid (31°C) water. Cold water has no negative effect, such as increasing the risk of tying-up.

How to explain the scraping myth? Water is a good conductor of heat, which is why cold water on a hot horse heats up – the horse is losing body heat to the water. Some owners might infer this means that the hot water is insulating the horse, but this isn’t true.

Then, the horse is cooled further as the water evaporates, because evaporation cools the surface the water is sitting on.

Along with a team of researchers, Dr David Marlin undertook extensive study in this area leading up to the 1996 Atlanta Olympic Games.

He says: “When faced with a horse that is moderately to dangerously hot after exercise or a horse that isn’t coping in hot weather even at rest, the most effective and safe way to cool is to apply water all over the body.

“Any water cooler than the horse – ideally less than 25°C – will work. The cooler the water the better and quicker the horse will cool down. The best indicator of body temperature and how effective your cooling is, is actually the horse’s breathing rate and how hot they feel to touch.

“Don’t concentrate on specific areas of the body – just apply water continuously either with buckets or a hose from the neck to the tail. Don’t scrape as this wastes time better served applying more cool or cold water and actually results in the surface warming up.”

How to keep competition horses cool

In addition to continuous cooling by applying cold water without scraping, other good ways to keep horses cool include:

• keeping them in shade as much as possible
• using a misting fan – you’ll find these most often at elite events
• ensuring they appropriately fit – fitness and acclimatisation to local weather conditions are additional key factors in avoiding heat stress
• maintaining a healthy weight and body condition score – an overweight horse will struggle more
• helping with electrolytes – electrolyte supplements help to keep your horse hydrated, and a hydrated horse can cool regulate their temperature better
• using ice boots to cool legs – some evidence states cold therapy has a positive effect on tissue metabolism and enzyme activity when skin temperature is reduced to 10°C or when joints are reduced to 30°C. However, ice must be applied thoughtfully and at reasonable intervals to avoid freezer burn

How to tell if a horse has heatstroke

Ambient temperature and humidity levels in the UK rarely reach those of more tropical climates. However, signs of heat exhaustion are not uncommon in horses competing here in the summer — particularly if the weather suddenly becomes hotter.

Signs of heat exhaustion include:

• prolonged and delayed recovery (beyond 10 to 20 minutes after the end of the competition)
• persistently elevated heart and breathing rates
• continued, excessive sweating
• shaking
• weakness
• loss of awareness of surroundings

Ongoing increases in rectal temperature after the end of exercise are a strong indicator of heat stress and the potential to develop heat stroke.

In its most severe form, this can leave a horse unable to sweat, reluctant to drink water or to walk. It can cause staggering, depression and collapse – even death.

Urgent cooling and appropriate veterinary treatment, including intravenous fluids in some cases, is vital.

Correction: 29 June, 2026

This article was first published on 25 June 2026 and it contained an error that stated Dr David Marlin had published a study showing that cold hosing the legs of leisure horses resulted in reducing the subjects’ temperatures. The study was not published by Dr Marlin and he does not endorse this as a cooling method. His position is that effective cooling involves applying cool of cold water over the horse’s entire body, without scraping the water away between applications.

• For unlimited access to advice on how best to care for your horse, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

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Summer horse care hacks are about so much more than keeping cool. During the season, you want to make the most of the long daylight hours with time at yard and streamline your time at home. You want to keep pesky insects away (using the best fly sprays), avoid sun damage (with sun cream for you and sun cream for your horse), and it might be useful to lighten your mental load with some organisation ideas.

Without further ado, here are some of the summer horse care hacks I recommend to guarantee a smoother season. The best part? Some of the bits and pieces I’ve picked out to help you through summer also have discounts as part of Amazon Prime Day, which ends today (26 June).

Summer horse care hacks and tips you need to try

1. Flies, begone!

Don’t worry, I’m not about to tell you to use fly spray – you definitely already know that! But flies don’t just annoy horses, they annoy us too. Therefore, you also deserve insect repellent!

As well as for hacking, I used this Jungle Formula on a trip to India a while back and don’t recall getting bitten at all, so it’s decent stuff.

While you’re at it, why not pick up a magnetic fly curtain to keep winged pests out of your tack room? I have a set that I use to keep bugs out of my home – being able to keep the door open in the evening without stressing about moths and other flies is genuinely amazing.

2. Make aircon a reality

Whether for your tack room or for use at home, a portable air conditioning unit is a must when heatwaves land – and you just know the next one isn’t far away.

I bought this Delonghi compact air conditioner last year and honestly haven’t looked back. I no longer fear a heatwave and get plenty of sleep to be on my A game for my horse. My miniature schnauzer also absolutely loves it, so if you have a lorry dog who needs a cooldown, I would highly recommend.

Portable air cons are a bit of an investment, but I promise your comfort is completely worth it. Or, if you’re not quite ready to commit to several hundreds of pounds, a tower fan (like this one) will certainly tide you over.

3. No more heavy hauling

Have you seen these fold-away carts around and about? Some people load their kids into them, others will trundle a picnic to the park, but I say: these babies belong on the yard.

Pile them with haynets, take them to shows, or finally make it from the tack room or feed room to your horse in the elusive single trip with feed, hay, tack and rugs all safely ensconced within.

4. Cue the music

Long summer days are begging to be spent at the yard. Personally, I love poo-picking as a summer activity, and taking a bluetooth speaker (I have this one) can crank up the good times.

Worried about phone battery? Pack yourself a power bank (like this one) for peace of mind.

5. Get savvy with storage

Winter rugs clogging your tack room? And, at home, are you sick of the sight of your long riding coats and waterproof breeches?

Use these vacuum compaction bags to store them without taking up space. You’re welcome!

Need something to store your rugs in? Check out this massive plastic storage chest.

6. Happy hosing

A hosepipe without an attachment is awkward to use – using your finger over the end only goes so far. Instead, try this hose attachment with loads of settings to cool your horse.

Not only that, there’s a reservoir for your pick of the best horse shampoo that will make bathing your horse easier than ever.

7. I’m a “fan” of this one…

Airflow in the stable is the thing to help keep your horse cool while he’s in. What’s more, a gentle breeze can also disrupt midge flightpaths, meaning they leave your horse alone.

You’ll want a portable fan (like this one) to help achieve this. They can be hung or stood on the floor and many have great battery life, so you don’t need to worry about having any power.

Want to cool down on the go? I just discovered this Shark Chill Pill hi-speed personal misting fan – I can see it being a hit at summer shows like the Royal International. If you want something at a cheaper price point, this personal fan is in the Prime Day sale.

8. Slip, slap, slop

Sun protection is an essential summer horse care hack, but it’s super important for humans, too. I always take suncream with me to the yard on summer days for top-ups, especially to my face.

This viral sun cream is currently in the Prime Day sale and one of my faves.

• For unlimited access to the latest product news, buying guides and reviews, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

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Various UK regions currently face a Met Office red or amber weather warning this week (23–25 June 2026), so we’ve rounded up some suitable Amazon Prime Day portable fan deals to help you keep your horse cool in the stable along with some other great Prime Day deals for equestrians.

Portable camping fans are rechargeable (usually via USB) and can be mounted on a variety of surfaces. Some attach via a clip, which makes them perfect for stall bars or lorry partitions, although we recommend not transporting horses in hot weather as Defra’s guidance states horses should only be transported in temperatures over 30°C if they are in a temperature-controlled vehicle.

Not only are fans useful for cooling, but they are also effective in preventing midges as they struggle to fly in a strong breeze.

Best Prime day portable fan deals

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These floor fans are wall-mountable or can be used outside the stable. Ensure you use a suitable power supply and that all leads and cables are out of the horse’s reach and do not pose a trip hazard.

With much of the UK experiencing intense heat right now, there’s no better time to invest in a fan to help keep your horse comfortable in his stable or when travelling.

• For unlimited access to the latest product news, buying guides and reviews, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

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When temperatures rise, ensuring your horse stays cool, comfortable and hydrated on the move becomes a little more complicated. Here’s how to succeed

Travelling horses in hot weather isn’t impossible, but it requires thoughtful preparation to ensure equine welfare is maintained.

In the UK, professional transporters are not allowed to move horses in temperatures exceeding 30°C – and this is a good rule of thumb for private owners to follow.

Tips for travelling horses in hot weather

Here’s how to best ensure equine welfare when transporting horses in hot weather.

1. Do your homework

Try to plan your travel around the weather conditions and avoid travelling during high temperatures and high humidity. If it is unavoidable, pick the times of day when it’s likely to be coolest.

Setting off early in the morning, for example, will make the experience much more pleasant for both you and your horse.

2. Plan ahead

Before setting off, ensure horses are fully hydrated by providing them with unrestricted access to forage and water for at least six hours with plenty of space to rest and relax.

3. What to wear?

While you might usually reach for one of the best travel rugs for a journey, it’s unlikely to be needed in hot weather. Any equipment on the horse’s body may contribute to overheating, the risks are likely to outweigh the benefits on a hot day.

Also consider leg protection. Thick travel boots may cause sweating, when a lighter pair of breathable brushing boots or cross-country boots combined with over-reach boots on all four legs will offer a basic level protection for a horse who typically travels well.

4. Prepare for the worst

While it sounds pessimistic, when travelling by road you just never know when or for how long you might get held up. Therefore, make sure you have plenty of forage and water on board for top-ups to keep your horses happy and healthy, and be confident you know what to do if you find yourself stuck on the road with a horse.

5. Provide good-quality forage

Access to quality forage will help maintain a healthy digestive system and provide an ongoing source of energy, as well as creating a small reservoir of fluid in the horse’s gut to help keep them hydrated.

You could also give a small fibre feed ahead of travel for this reason.

6. Boost airflow

Opening the rear section of a trailer helps draw hot air out while fresh air is pulled in through the windows. But avoid travelling with the front door above the ramp open as there is a risk of flying debris being blow into your horse’s face.

If you have a roof vent, open this at the back, as it also draws warm air up and out of the transport while you are driving. You can also use clip-on portable fans to help keep air circulating.

7. Stick to frequent watering intervals

In normal conditions, horses should be offered water at least every four and a half hours while travelling. In hot weather, that interval should be shorter.

This is at your discretion, but use what you know. How hot and dry is it? Has your horse eaten and drunk well in the hours before setting off? Is he sweaty? Is he overweight? All these factors will help you decide how frequently to stop and offer water.

8. Make water tempting

Anyone who has offered their horse a drink in an unfamiliar place will know that horses can be choosy about the type of container they will drink from and the taste of the water. However, it’s important to stress that this doesn’t mean they’re not thirsty.

If possible, try and take water from home in a large capacity container (like this one) and provide it in a bucket they are used to drinking from.

Additionally, it’s always beneficial to familiarise them to different containers in case you can’t take your own. You can also try flavouring the water with apple juice.

9. Minimise stress

Horses can become dehydrated more quickly when they are stressed or unsettled so try to minimise this wherever possible.

Loading and unloading are two of the main stressors for horses when travelling so make sure you do as much as you can to keep the process calm and relaxed.

Practising often without the pressure of heading to a show or event will help it become second nature.

When you are on a schedule, leave plenty of time to load to avoid time pressure.

Ensure the vehicle is well ventilated and drive carefully to make the journey as comfortable as possible.

10. Prepare for the arrival

As with pre-planning before a journey, it’s just as important to give plentiful forage and water upon arrival at your destination. If you’re travelling to a show or event then make sure your horse has time to relax, graze, eat hay and drink before competing or beginning exercise. You could also feed a rehydration mash.

Risks of travelling horses in hot weather

Dehydration is the greatest risk and can affect any horse.

Signs of dehydration include:

• fatigue
• weakness
• dullness
• loss of performance
• decreased appetite
• abnormal drinking, such as taking longer than usual draughts or gulping
• infrequent urination
• dark urine
• red or congested mucus membranes

Recommended ways to prevent or correct dehydration include:

• making clean, fresh water available at all times
• offering additional water sources with an electrolyte supplement
• administering electrolytes around two hours before travel
• feeding haylage, which has a higher moisture content than hay, or using soaked hay if appropriate
• standing your horse in the shade as much as possible
• offering water after exercise and packing a rehydration mash to administer if necessary

For unlimited access to advice on how best to care for your horse, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

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We’re expecting “How to keep horses cool in summer” will be a popular Google search this week. Here in the UK we experienced record temperatures of more than 30ºC in May and some areas are predicted to reach 40ºC this week. How many of you had that on your 2026 bingo card?

A heatwave that early in the year was unusual, and this week will be even more uncomfortable – and dangerous. Therefore, owners need to think about how to keep a horse cool right now, and we’ve got you covered. Here are Horse & Hound’s top tips on for keeping horses cool when things get really hot.

How to keep horses cool when temperatures soar

The number one piece of advice for working horses in hot weather is to exercise them as early in the morning as possible. While the evening could be an option, check your weather app in advance. It can still be well above 25ºC at 9pm in a heatwave, which might not be suitable for you or your horse.

Safe stabling

1. If your horse is normally stabled at night and out during the day, consider reversing his turnout times to avoid the hottest temperatures and the worst of the flies – especially if he has limited shade or shelter in the field.

Before deciding, check his stable isn’t actually more uncomfortable in the heat than his paddock. If there’s poor ventilation and no through breeze, his stable could be very stuffy. Setting up a portable fan out of reach of your horse may help to increase airflow and have a cooling effect.

2. If there is no permanent shelter or tree cover in your horse’s paddock, but you’d like him to stay out, you could use some sheeting to rig up a safe, temporary area of shade so he has the option.

Turnout tips

3. A light coloured fly rug or summer sheet works better than a dark coloured one for keeping the horse cool, because white is best for reflecting the sun’s heat.

A rug that has a loose weave material lets the horse’s body heat and sweat out more than a tight weave, but as a compromise provides less effective protection from the smallest flies and midges.

A wet rug has hugely increased cooling properties, so hosing the rug down while it is on your horse multiple times a day is worthwhile in the hottest temperatures.

4. Bringing your horse in for a cool hose off and turning him back out without scraping off the water will give him respite from the heat. If you can do it more than once, so much the better.

5. Pink skin and white areas on the face and heels are most commonly affected by sunburn because they have less skin pigment and hair coverage, so remember to apply one of the best suncreams for horses to these areas.

A fly mask with UV protective properties may also be helpful. Plus, those with a built-in nose net offer extra protection for pink noses.

How to keep horses cool while travelling

6. If you have to transport your horse in the hot weather, leave as early as possible. This avoids travelling in the worst heat and reduces the risk of getting stuck in traffic. Professional transporters in the UK are not allowed to move horses in temperatures exceeding 30°C – and this is a good rule of thumb for private owners to follow.

7. If you transport your horse, ensure all suitable windows are open to keep fresh air flowing through the horsebox. You can also use portable fans to help keep your horse cool.

If you have a roof vent, opening only the rear section while you are moving helps to draw the hot air out of the vehicle while cool air can enter through the windows. On arrival, the roof vent should be opened fully.

However, your horse might not be cooler standing on the lorry or trailer, even if he is out of the direct sun – think of dogs in hot cars. Consider whether he would be better off outside in the shade.

How to cool down a horse quickly

8. If you suspect that your horse may be suffering from heat stroke, put him in the shade and cool him continuously with free-flowing cool water.

The best way to do this is with a hosepipe, but if the hose has been sitting in the sun, make sure you run it first to remove any water that was left in the pipe. This water can be extremely hot and cause scalding so take care when you check it so you don’t get burnt either.

If you don’t have a hose, use a watering can or pour buckets over your horse instead. You will likely have to refill the vessels and repeat several times.

Another key is to allow the water to run off or evaporate without scraping off the excess liquid. The belief that leaving water on a horse will “cook” him is an equestrian urban myth – it simply isn’t true. The best way to cool a horse down quickly is to allow the water to draw heat away from the horse’s skin by evaporation.

You should also offer the horse water to drink every few minutes. If the horse appears wobbly (ataxic) then try to keep them walking in the shade, while continuing to apply cold water. If signs persist, contact your vet as a matter of urgency.

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It’s not just humans who have to think about using sun protection during hot weather, and I’ve found a great deal on Lincoln Sun Bloc. Horses with pink-skinned areas are particularly susceptible to sun damage, so they’ll benefit from the use of one of the best sun creams for horses to help protect their sensitive skin and prevent sun burn. Along with your best fly spray, it’s an essential part of your summer horse care kit.

If your horse has pink skin, it’s likely you worry about sunburn for much of the summer. If you’re looking for a horse-safe sun cream at a reasonable price, the search is over – this Sun Bloc from Lincoln gets a resounding thumbs up from team H&H and I’ve found it on offer with 33% off the RRP.

Lincoln Sun Bloc deal

Lincoln Sun Bloc acts as a barrier cream and sun block, using UV-filtering ingredients such as zinc oxide. It’s effective against UVA and UVB rays and its water resistant, so doesn’t come off at the first sign of sweating or rain. It works on exposed, scarred or sensitive skin, plus it contains moisturising ingredients like lanolin and aloe vera meaning it’s suitable for damaged skin.

We reviewed Lincoln Sun Bloc with aloe vera and awarded it H&H Approved status. Our tester really liked how the cream was unscented and gave excellent coverage. Plus, its chalky pink pigment let her know exactly where she’d already been, so she didn’t over-apply. Its thick, sticky texture means it can be messy to apply, but it’s a small price to pay for a sunburn-free summer.

• For unlimited access to the latest product news, buying guides and reviews, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

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The best fly boots are an excellent way to provide your horse with an extra defence against irritating insects, especially if you’ve noticed your horse stomping in an effort to deter them. They are also great additional protection for horses who are prone to sunburn as many offer high levels of UV protection.

If you combine fly boots with one of the best fly rugs and best fly masks, plus a great fly spray that works, your horse will have the ultimate protection this summer.

We’ve rounded up a selection of fly boots with different styles, material and features to help you find the best fit for your horse.

Best fly boots for horses

How to choose the best fly boots for your horse

When selecting a pair of the best fly boots, consider the following:

Materials: Opt for breathable and durable options, such as mesh or lightweight synthetics. These materials will act as a barrier against flies while still allowing air circulation to keep your horse comfortable.

Fit: Ensure the boots fit comfortably around your horse’s lower leg, allowing for unrestricted movement. Look for features like soft linings to prevent chafing and an anatomical design for an improved fit. Adjustable closures are important for a secure fit without being too tight.

What are fly boots?

Horse fly boots are designed to protect horses from the persistence of flies and other biting insects. These boots generally cover the lower legs, including the pasterns and fetlock, resulting in less irritation in these sensitive areas.

Benefits of fly boots

Fly boots for horses offer essential protection against flies and other biting insects, increasing your horse’s comfort by reducing irritation from flies. Some designs also offer enhanced UV protection, which is particularly great if your horse has sensitive or pink skin.

• For unlimited access to the latest product news, buying guides and reviews, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

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If you're in the market for a new summer sheet, don't miss this selection which are perfect for competitions, cooler

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The best fly masks for horses are an essential tool in the fight against irritating flying insects, especially if your horse is sensitive around his head. When combined with the best fly rugs, best fly sprays or fly deterrent gels, fly masks can really reduce the chance of your horse being irritated or bitten.

Finding the right fly mask for your horse can be challenging due to the variety of styles and features available. To simplify your search, we’ve put together a selection of fly masks for horses to help you find the perfect option.

Best fly masks for horses: H&H’s quick guide

Best overall fly mask: WeatherBeeta ComFiTec Deluxe Fine Mesh

Most durable fly mask: Woof Wear UV

Best Lycra-style fly mask: Premier Equine Comfort Tech Lycra

Best fly mask for big ears: Equilibrium Field Relief Max

Best fly mask for UV protection: Absorbine UltraShield

Best no-ear fly mask: Shires Flyguard Pro Fine Mesh Earless with Nose Fringe

Best fly masks for horses

How to choose the best fly masks for horses

Fly masks come in a range of designs with various different coverage combinations to suit different horses and cater for different needs. Some fly masks will have ear and nose covers as standard, while others will have either nose or ears, and some have neither and just cover the eye area. Some masks have detachable noses, and others sell nose attachments separately.

Whatever design works best for your horse, it’s important the mask fits well – to keep the insects out and ensure a comfortable fit – and is secure, especially if your horse is known to be an escape artist. Materials and designs that prevent rubbing and keep the mesh away from the eyes are best as your horse’s head is sensitive.

Do I need a fly mask with UV protection?

A fly mask can protect your horse’s sensitive eyes from the sun’s harmful rays and pesky insects. For the best defence against UV rays, choose a fly mask that also covers the ears and muzzle, and be sure to check the UV rating of the fabric. For complete protection, use a sun cream for horses, fly rug and fly boots with the fly mask to help protect your horse from UV rays and sunburn.

How do I keep flies off my horse’s face?

When turning your horse out, a fly mask is a great way to keep flies off their face. Some styles can even be used when riding, too. Remember to take the mask off at least once a day to check your horse’s face and eyes for any issues.

• For unlimited access to the latest product news, buying guides and reviews, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

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The best grazing muzzles can be a highly beneficial tool for managing good-doers. They can be worn by all types of horses and, if used correctly, they can really help to reduce your horse’s grazing intake if you need to help your horse lose weight in order to prevent obesity and laminitis.

There are a variety of grazing muzzle styles available – some muzzles are attached directly to a field-safe headcollar, while others are all-inclusive and come as one piece. Finding a muzzle that works for your horse can make a real difference, so we’ve rounded up the options available and put some to the test.

Best grazing muzzles: H&H’s quick guide

Best grazing muzzle: LeMieux Noma grazing muzzle

Best grazing muzzle for big horses: Thinline Flexible Filly grazing muzzle

Best grazing muzzle tiny ponies: Best Friend Deluxe grazing muzzle

Best grazing muzzles: what are your options?

This muzzle has an adjustable leather headpiece, soft webbing straps and a leadrope ring. The Ultimate Muzzle has been made higher at the front to prevent the horse from removing it. It has large nostril holes for ease of breathing, and a rubber base with one rectangular grazing hole.

Why do horses wear grazing muzzles?

Grazing muzzles are used to restrict grass intake, while allowing your horse to benefit from turnout. They are usually used in conjunction with other measures, such as strip grazing, as part of a weight loss or maintenance plan to protect against equine obesity and other associated problems, such as laminitis. They do not prevent a horse from eating.

How long should a horse wear a grazing muzzle?

Grazing muzzles should not be left on 24/7. It’s not recommended that they’re worn for more than 10–12 hours each day, but it’s important to remember that during muzzle-free hours your horse’s grazing or access to forage should be restricted to avoid compensatory eating.

Do grazing muzzles work?

Research studies have found that grazing muzzles can reduce grass intake significantly – one study found a 79% reduction over a three hour period. Another study that looked at muzzle use over 10 hours, combined with 14 hours of un-muzzled turnout, and found that weight gain was reduced over a three-week period in most ponies.

Other scientists in Minnesota studied four horses grazing in four separate paddocks, each planted with a single grass species. The study, published in 2014, found there was no difference in the quantities of each grass species that the horses could consume through the muzzle. Wearing the muzzle reduced the horses’ dry matter intake by an average of about 30%.

How to introduce a grazing muzzle

It’s important to introduce a grazing muzzle slowly and to make it a positive experience for your horse. How long it takes for your horse to be accustomed to it will depend on his temperament and prior handling experience.

The National Equine Welfare Council recommends the following steps…

• Begin by training your horse to accept the muzzle near his face and then around his nose. Reward relaxed and calm behaviour.
• When your horse is accepting, do the muzzle up, leave it on for a few moments and provide a low-calorie treat reward through the muzzle.
• Increase the amount of time your horse is wearing the muzzle from seconds to minutes. Graze your horse in-hand to encourage him to try eating with the muzzle on.
• Increase the supervised time that your horse wears the muzzle before turning him out with it on. Make sure he is grazing comfortably and is able to drink easily.

Tips for successfully using a grazing muzzle

• Take time to introduce your horse to the muzzle
• Ensure you’ve fitted the muzzle correctly – most come with fitting advice
• Fence off any potential hazards where the muzzle could become caught
• Monitor your horse’s weight weekly and conduct a body condition score assessment at least every 2–4 weeks
• Check for rubbing daily – common areas include on the poll, behind the ears, top of the muzzle, lips, cheek bones and under the chin
• Ensure your horse’s grazing is restricted when he is not wearing the muzzle to avoid compensatory eating. Common options include stabling or putting him in a bare paddock with soaked hay during this time
• Check that your horse can manage to eat the grass in his field – grazing that is too long or too short can be difficult to eat through a muzzle

How do you keep a grazing muzzle on?

Firstly, make sure your muzzle is fitted correctly. Too tight and your horse may experience discomfort and put more effort into getting it off, but too loose and it’ll be easy to get off. Some owners swear by plaiting the forelock around the headpiece to hold it on, while others loop it through the ear holes of a fly rug. Some horses are particularly efficient muzzle removers, so it might take a bit of trial and error but perseverance is key.

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I’ve been putting the new LeMieux Noma Grazing Muzzle to the test. In short, I would say this muzzle is the best grazing muzzle I’ve tried, but I’ve detailed my thoughts below and included some pictures and videos so that you can see it in action.

First impressions

This muzzle is different to all the other grazing muzzles on the market – it’s flexible, lightweight and has a soft feel.

It can be attached to any headcollar, which is great because you’re more likely to keep it on than you are a single-strap muzzle. It also means don’t have to purchase an additional headcollar, which helps to keep the cost down. I’d recommend using one of the best field-safe headcollars, and I tried it with the LeMieux Breakaway Headcollar.

My first impressions were really positive – finding a grazing muzzle that works for your horse can be really tricky and giving them all a try is an expensive hobby, but this looked like it was going to solve some of the problems I’d had previously.

My test subjects

I tried the muzzle on my pony, a 13.3hh Norwegian Fjord, who has worn a muzzle before but not recently. I’ve tried a selection in the past and had most success with the Shires Green Guard muzzle, but it did rub him on his chin and after storing the muzzle in a box with other kit over the winter, it had become squashed and misshapen, which caused it to rub even more.

I also tested it on a 13.2hh Welsh section C who wears a muzzle every day, but prior to testing this one had three different styles on rotation to get around problems with rubbing. She has been wearing this muzzle regularly for the last few months.

With different head shapes, I expected the muzzle to fit the Fjord slightly better, but I knew the section C would give it her best shot at removal, which would be an important part of the test.

How well the LeMieux Noma Grazing Muzzle worked

The main things to consider with a grazing muzzle are:

• Does it stay on or is it easy for your horse to remove?
• Does it reduce intake while allowing your horse to graze, drink and breathe comfortably?
• Does it rub?

Did the ponies keep the muzzle on?

Neither pony managed to remove the muzzle in the time that they wore it. Being attached to a regular headcollar meant it could be fitted securely, and the nylon pips (which attach the muzzle to the headcollar) were strong enough to hold it on during rolling and rubbing, but are designed to ping off if your horse was caught.

Neither of the ponies showed signs of discomfort while wearing the muzzle.

Examples of unsuccessful removal attempts: 

Could the ponies graze easily?

I’ve videoed the Fjord’s first attempt at grazing with the muzzle on, which is the first time he’s worn a muzzle in four or five years, and you can see he had no problem eating.

The section C also had no troubles, and I’ve videoed her eating hay from the ground. You can see she is able to eat hay via the hexagonal holes in addition to the small grazing hole, but I’ve mentioned more about this in the fit section.

It definitely reduces the intake – unfortunately I can’t say by exactly how much, but studies suggest muzzles in general reduce intake by around 80% – and it seemed to be an instrumental part of the section C successfully losing weight.

The grazing hole is just over 3.5cm wide, and the pentagonal and hexagonal breathing holes are 4–5cm at their widest points. Aside from the main grazing hole, the other sections below the mouth are covered.

Does it rub?

Neither pony suffered rubbing while wearing this muzzle. I’ve tried a few types of muzzle and this is the first time I’ve managed to use one without a single rub.

Prior to using this muzzle, the section C had three on rotation due to all rubbing different areas.

It has a fleecy tab on the attachment that sits over the nose to prevent rubbing in this area. The muzzle itself is made of soft and flexible rubber, which reduced the chance of rubbing.

Fit and sizing

Unfortunately, the Noma is only available in pony and cob sizes currently – I really hope LeMieux will introduce more sizes in the future.

I used a cob-sized muzzle on both the ponies. The Welsh section C may have fitted a pony size better as she was able to graze via the breathing holes on occasion, but the extra space seemed to keep her more comfortable and her intake was still reduced, so it remained a good option for us.

Care and durability

The muzzle is easy to clean – I just rinsed it under the hose and rubbed any dirt away with my fingers.

It has lasted well. It’s only been worn for a few months so far, but I spent a lot of time in the beginning adjusting the fit (undoing and doing up the tabs) and we’ve had no breakages.

Verdict

With an RRP of £39.95, I think this muzzle is a great value buy. It did job and keeps your horse comfortable, so it ticks all the boxes for me. I wish I’d had it years ago when the Fjord needed to wear one every day.

• For unlimited access to the latest product news, buying guides and reviews, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

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17 ways you can help your horse lose weight

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Unlike the typical bucket-style grazing muzzles, the ThinLine Flexible Filly Grazing Muzzle has been developed with horse owner feedback and so features in our guide to the best grazing muzzles.

It is designed to help slow down speedy eaters, limiting grazing, and can also be used to help curb minor cribbing problems. It’s made of a durable and pliable mould-resistant material that is soft on the teeth and lips, is UV resistant and an adjustable grazing hole size.

My first impressions of the Thinline Flexible Filly

With my past unsuccessful experiences of traditional grazing muzzles, I was looking forward to testing this one with its unique design and materials. I had expected a more rigid plastic construction, but as it’s name suggests it is actually quite flexible.

It has eight attachment points that are connected to the headcollar with cable ties – I found the initial fitting fiddly to begin with, but the fit is very important to prevent your horse eating out the side. Once it’s fitted to a field-safe headcollar, however, that’s it ready to go.

This is the only muzzle my horse has not walked away from when I’ve gone to put it on.

Test Horse

This muzzle was tested on Sekonda – a 17.2hh Irish Draught with a chunky head – and he wears an extra-full size headcollar. Sekonda has worn a muzzle previously, but due to it rubbing under his chin we had to stop. While testing this muzzle, he has been wearing it everyday for 8–10 hours.

Fit

I tried the Thinline Flexible Filly grazing muzzle in a large size with a 3.5cm grazing hole. Unfortunately the ThinLine Flexible Field Safe headcollar, which is recommended to be paired with this muzzle due to the strategically placed keepers for easy attachment, was too small, so I paired the muzzle with a leather headcollar instead.

The initial fitting was fiddly – the muzzle comes with a set a paper ties so you can temporally get the correct fit before attaching the plastic cable ties. I would suggest having a few spare plastic ones at the stables incase replacements are needed. Overall, I am happy with the fit and like how you can see the horse eating clearly when they’re wearing it.

I have noticed Sekonda is not fussing when I go to put this grazing muzzle on as he has previously been with others, which suggests to me that he’s happy and comfortable when wearing it. He drinks from the trough as normal and it enables him to live out with his herd.

Performance

Using the muzzle since last year regularly along with consistent exercise I have managed to keep the weight off Sekonda. The open sides prevent the build up of dirt in the bottom, which I have struggled with in the past.

He has a pale-skinned nose but he did not suffer from sunburn when using the muzzle in combination with one of the best suncreams for horses. He has been trying to rub it on his front legs, but it hasn’t come off.

What really stands out for me is the comfort. After regular wear, there have been no signs of rubbing, which we have struggled with when using the bucket style all-in-one muzzles.

The durability has also been good. Despite daily use last summer, it’s showing minimal signs of wear. It’s easy to clean but it’s worth knowing that the material doesn’t stay clear.

It states its machine washable in a net bag on cold wash with detergent and a teaspoon of bleach. I have not done this as I would need to remove it from the leather headcollar and then refit all the cable ties after. I have just been washing it off as and when needed.

Overall I’d highly recommend the Thinline grazing muzzle, especially if you are struggling to find a good fit without any rubbing.

Verdict

*H&H Approved* – This reliable, well-designed muzzle has improved my horse’s quality of life. By enabling him to wear it comfortably and regularly, he can happily remain in the field with his herd while his weight is effectively managed. It’s the only one I’ve found big enough to fit my horse’s large head, while offering plenty of ventilation. It’s really worth the initial investment.

• For unlimited access to the latest product news, buying guides and reviews, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

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The best waterproof fly rugs are the perfect hybrid between the best no-fill rain sheets and the best fly rugs. As well as providing protection from summer showers, these lightweight and breathable rugs protect your horse from flies and the sun, making them ideal if you can’t get to the yard to keep taking your horse’s fly rug off when the rain sets in.

Best waterproof fly rugs: H&H’s quick guide

Best overall waterproof fly rug: Swish Equestrian Waterproof Fly Combination

Best for coverage: Premier Equine Buster Stay-Dry Super Lite Fly

Best design for deterring flies: Equilibrium Waterproof Fly Rug

Best for a rug-wrecker: WeatherBeeta ComFiTec Duo Shield Detach-A-Neck

Best for tiny ponies: Ruggles Combo Fly Rug With Waterproof Panel

Best fit for broad horses: Masta Turnoutmasta Hybrid Fly Rug

Best waterproof fly rugs

Equilibrium ran their own in-house test and found that flies were 51% less likely to land on this monochrome hexagonal print compared to the other prints and colours tested.

How to choose the best waterproof fly rug

A waterproof fly rug is ideal for horses turned out in changeable weather as they offer protection from flies, sun and showers. The waterproof upper section protects against rain while the mesh sides provide protection from biting insects and help to keep your horse cool.

Some waterproof fly rugs also offer UV protection. We’ve listed this wherever we’ve been able to get this information from manufacturers.

Waterproof fly rugs usually have larger tail flaps, should have quality and adjustable fastenings, and some also have linings to prevent rubbing and a belly flap for additional coverage.

Opt for maximum coverage – look for extra-large tail flaps, belly coverage and neck coverage to keep the flies from irritating your horse.

Consider the fastenings – if your horse is a fidget, look for fastenings that are easy and quick to do such as T-bar fastenings, but if your horse is particularly wide or narrow at the chest you may want to consider buckles for more adjustability.

Are fly rugs waterproof?

Not all fly rugs are waterproof, but some are! This selection of the best waterproof fly rugs are designed to be a hybrid of a rain sheet – with a waterproof topline – and a classic fly rug with a mesh bottom section.

How do I measure my horse for a rug?

In the UK rugs are measured in feet and inches. To measure your horse for good rug fit, use a soft tape measure to measure your horse from the centre of their chest to the furthest point of their hindquarters – follow these instructions on how to fit a horse rug.

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The best ride-on fly rugs are just what you need if your horse is sensitive to flies or prone to sweet itch. Combining a ride-on fly rug with one of the best fly sprays can help you and your horse enjoy hacking again.

These fly rugs are designed for use while riding, offering protection without overheating your horse. For maximum defence, we suggest pairing it with one of the best fly fringes or best fly masks.

Best ride-on fly rugs: H&H’s quick guide

Best premium pick ride-on fly rug: Bucas Buzz-Off Riding Fly Sheet

Best ride-on fly rug for UV protection: Masta Ride-On Fly Rug

Best ride-on fly rug for coverage: Busse Fringe Exercise Combo Ride-On Fly Rug

Best ride-on fly rug for largest horses: LeMieux Ride-On Fly Rug

Best ride-on fly rugs

How to choose the best ride on fly rug

The best ride-on fly rugs will offer your horse additional protection, without getting in his way or making him hot. Riding is hard work as it is and the warmer weather doesn’t help matters.

As with the best fly rugs for turnout, there are a few different designs – some have detachable necks, while others have some level of belly protection. It’s important to weigh up what’s most important to you when it comes to protecting your horse from flies. Some are hi-vis, too, which makes them great for hacking in.

• For unlimited access to the latest product news, buying guides and reviews, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

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Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

The best fly fringes for horses are a simple yet effective way of preventing bothersome flies from landing on your horse’s face. They act as a longer and more effective forelock that moves with your horse to deter flies from landing and moving them off if they do.

They’re also a great option if your horse doesn’t tolerate the best fly masks well or you’re looking for a solution for when you’re riding. I’ve rounded up some of the latest fly fringes for horses below.

Best fly fringes for horses

Types of fly fringes

Fly fringes are available in two main styles – ones that need to be attached to a headcollar or bridle, and ones that can be worn alone. If you’re looking for a fly fringe to wear while riding, opting for one that attaches to the bridle will mean there’s less unnecessary bulk around your horse’s head.

However, many of the headcollar-free varieties are fastened with Velcro, which makes them a safer option for the field if you don’t already have one of the best field-safe headcollars. Some fly fringes also have ears – similar to an ear bonnet – and so provide your horse with additional protection.

How to keep flies off horses

The most effective fly protection for your horse uses a range of methods. The best defence is preventing flies from landing, which can be achieved using the best fly spray, as well as best fly gels and physical barriers like best fly rugs and best fly boots.

Benefits of fly fringes

Fly fringes for horses offer added protection and increasing your horse’s comfort by reducing irritation from flies on their face against flies and other biting insects. They’re a great alternative to a fly mask if your horse gets too hot and gets his fly mask off.

• For unlimited access to the latest product news, buying guides and reviews, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

You might also like:

10 of the best fly sprays we’ve put to the test and found to really work

7 of the best field-safe headcollars designed to prevent injury

Find the perfect fly mask to keep your horse comfortable all summer long

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We tested fly gels and creams for 3 months – these 5 are worth the spend

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

The best fly sprays for horses are an absolute lifesaver – they are highly effective and long-lasting, which negates the need for constant reapplication. As a horse owner, I know how exciting the warmer weather can be, especially after a long wet winter – but this also means flies. You might have already noticed a few flies and midges flitting around, making a nuisance of themselves.

Flies aren’t just a general nuisance either, as for some horses their bites can lead to reactions, persistent itching and discomfort. With a wide range of flying insects across the country, from midges to horse flies, protecting your horse from flies can present a challenge – so we’ve been searching for the best fly sprays to keep the pests away.

Best fly sprays: H&H’s quick guide

Best overall fly spray: Leovet Power Phaser

Longest lasting and best for midges: Farnam Tri Tec 14

Best natural fly spray: Barrier Super Plus

Best for quiet spray: Equine America Forget Flies

Best fly sprays for horses and their premises

Read the full Absorbine Ultrashield review – we awarded it H&H Approved status.

Read our full NAF Off DEET Power Performance spray review – we awarded it H&H Approved status.

It repels flies, stable flies, and all biting insects. Jamie and Georgi Broom tested the standard formula fly spray, and they found it effective against midges – read the full Nettex fly spray review

This spray would be ideal for use when your horse is on box rest or handy to have in the lorry when you go out to events or training where they have to stand around for long periods of time making them a target for flying and biting insects.

Fly repellent ingredients

In the UK there are a lot of restrictions about what can be called a fly repellent, what can be applied to your horse and how companies can talk about different products. This guide includes a full range of fly deterrents and summer sprays – those you can apply to your horse, as well as those that should be applied to his living area or your feed room.

Some products in this guide have been approved for use on animals in the US, while in the UK they are only approved for premise use around horses. Anyone choosing to use the spray in a manner that is not in line with the guidance on the bottle’s label, does so at their own risk.

How to keep flies off horses

Using a range of methods to protect your horse from flies is most effective. Preventing flies from landing in the first instance is the best solution for protecting your horse – in addition to the best fly spray for horses, you can use the best fly gels, lotions or washes as well as one of the best fly masks, best fly rugs and best fly boots to arm your horse with the best possible defence.

Fly gels are particularly handy if your horse is not keen on being sprayed. It can be a case of trial and error to find out what works best for your horse, but once you’ve found a solution you can buy in bulk and save money in the long run.

How to choose the best fly spray

We’ve put many fly sprays to the test to help you find the best option for your horse – and much of this depends on what flies are most troublesome in your area – however, there are a few other considerations, too.

Some of the best fly deterrents contain synthetic active ingredients such as DEET or permethrin, some of which are insecticides, while other sprays contain natural ingredients known to deter a range of flying insects. Some formulas will need to be reapplied more often than others, so while some appear to be more expensive, they may last you a lot longer.

It’s also wise to consider both the bottle and spray type – finding a gentle and quiet spray with good coverage can be the difference between a calm and stressful turnout routine if you have a nervous horse.

Homemade fly repellent recipes

If you’re looking for an alternative to chemical fly sprays to keep the flies at bay. Many horse owners are now choosing to create their own fly repellents using simple, natural ingredients. We’ve compiled a selection of our readers’ most effective and trusted home recipes for fly spray.

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With hotter, drier summers now the UK norm, you’re probably wondering how to keep stables cool in summer.

Of course, all horse owners should ensure management is adapted to the hotter time of year.

“Horses need to be monitored closely when temperatures soar,” remarks Michael Thompson of Monarch. “Keeping a thermometer in a central location will make you aware of internal temperatures in buildings. Prolonged stable temperatures of more than 32ºC can be dangerous.”

Ensuring unlimited fresh water is essential.

“Our auto-drinkers ensure a constant and reliable supply as a horse’s water intake increases,” he adds. “Gentle exercise in the shade, such as on one of our covered walkers, gives horses a break from their stable with protection from the midday sun.”

There is much you can do to cool down a horse, such as opting for night-time turnout, or for instant relief you can cold hose and leave the horses to dry naturally. However, neither of these actions has a lasting impact if your horse has to return to a warm stable.

So, how can you adapt your horse’s stable to reduce the internal temperature? Is it possible to build cooler stables? And how can you ensure the effects aren’t reversed in winter?

How to keep stables cool: ventilation

Stagnant air is bad news for ammonia and dust build-up. Not only this, but it also increases humidity, which can make stables feel stuffy and unbearably warm.

“Stables can quickly become hotboxes in the summer if not properly ventilated,” warns Michael. “They can trap heat and humidity, making them uncomfortable and potentially dangerous for horses.

“Our designers implement proper ventilation into each design,” he continues. “Design features such as high ceilings, windows, and vents all allow for natural airflow, keeping the stable cool in summer.”

But how do vents work?

“Fresh air must enter the building at the eaves, or gutter level, and escape through a ridge of the roof, which is called a vented ridge,” explains Hugh Daly of Equus Works. “This works because fresh air enters through the eaves, warms and rises to escape from the vented ridge.

“In existing barns, cladding can be removed at the eaves to allow ingress of fresh air,” he adds. “A crossflow of air is essential, and all too often modern barns are closed off from fresh air.”

Hugh adds that, ideally, stables should have at least a 1x1m window on the back wall.

“This allows for seasonal temperature changes,” he explains. “Toughened glass with window bars will allow natural light all year round, and can be opened for a further source of fresh air in summer.

“We use turn-and-tilt windows to keep the elements out but allow air in.”

Constructing stables for optimal temperature

When considering how to keep stables cool, materials matter.

“Monarch’s polycarbonate roof sheets incorporate UV protection, heat blocking and multi-layered colour combinations for dispersing heat and light,” explains Michael.

“Our slate effect sheets allow for air to travel freely behind and underneath, ensuring a breathable roof,” he continues. However, breathability does mean compromising on warmth in winter. “We also offer insulated slate roof systems that provide tremendous thermal retention in the colder months.”

Hugh also recommends insulated roof sheets to both reflect heat in the summer and reduce heat loss in winter. While maximising natural light is important in stable construction, Hugh advises owners to avoid one common mistake.

“Roof light sheets, while letting the light in, bring the sun directly into stables and heat them up,” he warns. “In an American barn, we always recommend a vented light ridge over the walkway. That way, you get light without direct sun on the horses and a vent for warm air to escape from.”

Finally, the build position influences temperature.

“South-facing walls could be considered a heat source,” remarks Hugh, adding that insulated walls with internal stables positioned on the north side of a building can help guard against overheating.

Implementing cooling systems

Stable fans are a simple, low-investment method of keeping horses cool in stables. As well as boosting airflow for comfort, stable fans have many benefits, such as disrupting biting insects and dispersing ammonia build-up. Floor and wall-mounted fans are most commonly available.

Misting fans are a more sophisticated solution. They come in a variety of designs, from a portable fan setup for competitions, single-stable systems to large misting lines that can be suspended in the apex of a barn or marquee.

Koolfog’s high-pressure misting fans work by producing micron-sized water droplets that, while evaporating and turning to vapour, remove heat from the air, cooling the surrounding area.

“This process, called adiabatic cooling, reduces outdoor temperatures by as much as 18ºC,” explains Jason Coller, managing director at Koolfog. “It makes days where temperatures exceed even 38ºC comfortable.”

Systems like Koolfog’s come with pre-fabricated misting apparatus that is easy to install.

“Portable systems are delivered ready assembled and simply need to be wheeled into place and connected to a water supply – a standard yard tap is fine.” adds Jason.

What’s more, cooling in this way does not risk bedding waste.

“High-pressure systems like Koolfog’s produce a fine mist that evaporates before it reaches the ground, so it does not make bedding wet.”

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Horse & Hound created this content as part of a paid partnership with Monarch Equestrian. The contents of this article are entirely independent and solely reflect the editorial opinion of Horse & Hound.

Despite most horse owners longing for the better weather for much of the year, many worry about keeping their horses cool and comfortable when it’s hot.

As summer temperatures climb, it’s essential to proactively ensure horses remain cool, healthy, and comfortable, whether stabled or in the field. This might involve more frequent visits, adjusting turnout schedules, and investing some handy products to aid cooling.

How to keep your horse comfortable when stabled

1. Provide shelter and shade

During hot weather, shelter or shade is essential, whether it’s a field shelter, natural shade from trees or a stable. For horses with fair or light skin, apply one of the best sun creams for horses for additional protection from harmful UV rays.

2. Adjust turnout routines

If your horse is stabled, consider adapting your routine to avoid turning your horse out during peak sunlight hours.

3. Keep stables cool

If your horse must be stabled during the hottest part of the day, do what you can to keep the stable cool and bear in mind that wooden stables tend to be hotter than brick. Good ventilation is crucial, and you might consider a portable fan (like this one on Amazon) to circulate air and reduce the temperature.

4. Minimise flies

Use one of the best fly sprays – some brands (usually the American ones) offer stable sprays, so consider whether spraying your horse’s environment will have added benefit. Removing droppings more frequently will also help to keep flies at bay.

5. Ensure adequate hydration

It is essential that your horse has constant access to fresh water. During hot weather, horses can drink more than double their usual intake, so up to 60 litres. Keep water buckets clean to prevent algae and bacteria growth. If you have a automatic trough, adding this Equine America water treatment (which is environmentally friendly with a natural action) will help you keep it clean.

6. Boost water intake further

Introduce a soaked feed or add extra water to their normal feed ration to help increase overall hydration. Soaking or steaming hay can also add extra water to the diet.

7. Replenish electrolytes

Sweating causes horses to lose vital salts. Supplementing their diet with the best electrolytes for horses can help maintain hydration by encouraging water intake. The best rehydration mashes offer a tempting feed with added electrolytes and are quick and easy to prepare, while a salt lick gives them an opportunity to self-regulate their salt intake, although this shouldn’t be replied on as the horse’s only form of salt.

8. Cool down with hosing

Hosing your horse down, paired with one of the best no-rinse washes, can significantly lower their body temperature and provide a refreshing treat.

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At this time of year, I go through fly spray like it’s going out of fashion, so I’m always on the hunt for the best fly spray deals. If you’re like me, you’ll want to know you’re investing your money wisely.

Thankfully, our team regularly and comprehensively tests fly sprays. We are real horse owners and put all products we test well and truly through their paces. Therefore, you can rest assured that we have investigated these market-leading sprays in all conditions. The fly sprays (and other products) that perform the best are awarded H&H Approved status, putting them among the best money can buy.

We have a full guide to the best fly sprays for horses that we have tested, and have rounded up the best available discounts on these supreme sprays for you. If you’re in the market for a new spray, look no further than our H&H Approved list.

Fly spray deals: H&H Approved products

Other high-performing fly sprays

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If your horse has pink skin, you’ve undoubtedly got sunburn fears. Perhaps you’re looking for the best sun cream for horses at a reasonable price? The search is over – this product gets a resounding thumbs up from team H&H.

I’ve been using Lincoln Sun Bloc on my 25-year-old cob mare for two years with impressive results. It’s long-lasting, fast acting and effective and I wouldn’t be without it.

Lincoln Sun Bloc acts as a barrier cream and sun block, using UV-filtering ingredients such as zinc oxide. It’s effective against UVA and UVB rays and its water reistant, so doesn’t come off at the first sign of sweating or rain. It works on exposed, scarred or sensitive skin. Plus, it contains moisturising ingredients like lanolin and aloe vera meaning it’s suitable for damaged skin.

We reviewed Lincoln Sun Bloc with aloe vera back in 2020 and awarded it H&H Approved status. Our tester really liked how the cream was unscented and gave excellent coverage. Plus, its chalky pink pigment let her know exactly where she’d already been, so she didn’t over-apply.

Sun block for horses: my verdict on Lincoln Sun Bloc

There is so much I love about this sun block for horses. I started using it when Aniwell Filtabac went out of stock a few years ago – this is also an excellent option, but it is more expensive.

Firstly, my mare’s worst site for sunburn is on a pink-skinned patch of her crest where her mane is very thin. She lives out 24/7, so it gets a high degree of sun exposure if she chooses to be outside her shelter or away from the treeline. When applied generously here, the cream lasts around 48 hours. You know when it needs topping up because the area doesn’t look a pale chalky pink anymore.

Secondly, the 200g tub lasts a long time and it’s great value for money. I use it several times a week on my mare’s mane, her muzzle and my gelding’s muzzle. I know I’m using enough because neither of them have burnt, but I’ve only used one tub so far this year.

Finally, it’s viscous and coats the skin well. Sure, it’s messy on your hands, but I just apply it when I’ve finished with my other jobs and then give them a wash before getting in the car. Messy application is a small price to pay for protection.

As for other drawbacks? If the pot gets hot, the cream slackens and you end up using more, but it’s still effective and returns to its almost putty-like texture when it cools. I keep it in a box by my paddock gate, so that’s probably why.

Another thing to note is that it doesn’t have as much staying power on muzzles due to more interaction with the ground, fieldmates and grazing and the water trough. You do sometimes see evidence of the cream creating an iridescent effect on the water surface, but I don’t think I’ve ever used a cream that doesn’t do this.

I could go on and on about this sun cream – why not try it for yourself?

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As those living in the UK face another week of high temperatures reaching over 30°C, and some water companies have announced hosepipe bans (Yorkshire Water from 11 July, South East Water for those living in Kent and Sussex from 18 July), where does this leave horse owners?

The good news is that while the rules outlaw the use of hosepipes for washing cars and watering gardens, the use of a hosepipe for the cleaning, maintenance and general well-being of any kind of animal is exempt from hosepipe ban rules.

The Government requires that the welfare of animals must be protected at all times, including during a hosepipe ban – or as it is more correctly called a Temporary Use Ban (TUB).

Yorkshire Water will impose a hosepipe ban from Friday 11 July 2025 following recorded its driest spring in 132 years, where just 15cm of rain has fallen since February.

Examples of what is allowed under the TUB restrictions include:

• Washing horses down with a hosepipe
• Filling up water troughs and buckets with a hosepipe
• Cleaning out lorries, trailers and stables with a hosepipe

As long as you are genuinely using a hosepipe for the welfare of your horse and not abusing the interpretation of these rules, you should have no concerns. Responsible use of water is encouraged at the stables, as it is in your homes, to avoid putting added pressure on the supply during this period of high temperatures with little no rain forecast.

If you’d like further reassurance or information, you can contact your local water company for clarification.

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Hands up who hasn’t got the traditional rider’s tan: arms like you’ve been on holiday in the Bahamas, legs like you’ve been trekking across the Arctic Circle. No one? But strap marks and white legs are the least of the worries for riders during the summer. Do any of these sound familiar?

1. You’ve gone to the yard on the way to work and if you are brave enough to then get your pins out in the office (fake tan ahoy), the breech and sock marks just add to the “look”, we feel.

2. You’ve gone to the yard on the way to work (do you sense a theme here?) and have, of course, made sure your trusty steed is well protected against flies… as will your colleagues be. Still, we think great wafts of eau de fly spray are preferable to the eau de la merde du cheval said colleagues may be more used to.

3. Hat hair. It’s never a good coiffure choice, but if you thought it looked rather nasty after a half-hour schooling session in January, going cross-country in warm weather is a whole new ball game.

4. Of course, we have to mention where to ride. The fields are hard, the school’s getting deep and the roads – let’s not go there. But as it wasn’t long ago we were dealing with six inches of snow, followed by torrential rain/waterlogging and were contemplating scuba diving rather than riding, we can’t bring ourselves to complain – much.

5. Hot feet. Losing a toe as a result of leading two horses in flip-flops may mean a 10% discount at future pedicures, but we really don’t recommend it. Tough boots and sweaty feet, however delightful, have to be better than sporting just the nine toes.

6. Hands up who enjoys studding up? No one again? But what could be more fun than finding a tiny piece of gravel exactly the width of the stud hole, perfectly positioned and immovable in the thread?

7. As we all know, the prevailing wind in any yard can be calculated by looking at the muckheap: it will always be towards the wheelbarrow-emptier, wherever he or she is standing. And if a face full of shavings carried on the breeze is fun in winter, when there isn’t a square millimetre of skin showing, it’s even more fun when you’re wearing a vest top…

Summer is finally here (for the moment), and with it comes the light, warmth and much more besides. This is

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Temperatures in the UK are set to rise again later in the week – most of the country will see highs of more than 27ºC. If you’re planning to stable your horse during the high temperatures, you’ll need to think about how you can keep your horse cool. To help you out, we’ve rounded up some suitable portable fan deals that are part of Amazon Prime Day.

Portable camping fans are rechargeable (usually via USB) and can be mounted on a variety of surfaces. Some attach via a clip, which makes them perfect for stall bars or lorry partitions, although we recommend not transporting horses in the heat of the day. Not only are fans useful for cooling, but they are also effective in preventing midges as they struggle to fly in a strong breeze.

Best Amazon Prime Day portable fan deals

As Amazon Prime Day (8–11 July) is happening right now, there’s no better time to invest in a portable fan to help keep your horse comfortable – and they’ll arrive with free next-day delivery.

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Keeping horses properly hydrated to help prevent digestive upset can be a real challenge. The challenge increases when your horse is subjected to anything out of the norm, which could be travel, intense exercise, cold winter weather or hot summer temperatures. The best rehydration mashes for horses offer an effective solution, combining a tempting feed with electrolytes already mixed in to help replace vital salts lost through sweat or decreased water intake.

Like the best electrolytes for horses, high-quality rehydration mashes support fluid balance and encourage horses to drink more. They’re also quick to prepare, often highly palatable and can be a valuable part of any horse’s routine – whether for competition, travel recovery, or everyday training.

From fast-soaking options for busy yards to tasty recipes designed to tempt even the fussiest eaters, these are the best rehydration mashes worth adding to your feed room shelves.

NB: The Feeding rates are offered as a guideline and have been calculated per day for a 500kg horse.

Best rehydration mashes for horses: H&H’s quick guide

Best for fussy eaters: Saracen Re-Covery Mash

Best for sensitive horses: Pure Feed Company Re-fuel

Best value for money: Spillers Perform & Restore

Best for versatile feeding: Simple System Horse Feeds Simply Complete

Best rehydration mashes for horses

Saracen Re-Covery Mash

Sizes: 1.5kg, 20kg

RRP: £8.99 (1.5kg), £21.99 (2okg)

Soaking time in cold water: 5 minutes

Feeding rate: 500g–1kg per day (adjust as needed)

This mash is designed to boost hydration without upsetting your horse’s usual diet. It’s made with familiar ingredients and high in super fibres, while staying low in sugar and starch – ideal for horses needing a low-starch feed.

It also includes salt to encourage drinking and vitamin E to support muscle recovery. Plus, the distinctive banana flavour tempts even fussy eaters. Also, with both travel-sized pouches and larger bags available, it’s easy to keep on hand for any situation.

H&H’s products editor Franchesca Slack uses this mash regularly during the summer months and says: “My horses struggle to drink when we’re away from home and this mash has really helped. I have the smaller bag on the lorry ready to hand and I love the smell! Also great for those extra hot days to keep the horses hydrated.”

Pure Feed Company Re-fuel

Sizes: 15kg

RRP: £26.55

Soaking time in cold water: 5 minutes

Feeding rate: 500g dry weight per day

Pure Refuel sets itself apart by including three crucial amino acids – lysine, methionine and threonine – that are essential for proper muscle repair after exercise. It’s also rich in antioxidants, such as selenium, vitamin E and vitamin C, to help combat oxidative stress.

Low in sugar and starch and completely free from molasses, cereals, alfalfa, and soya, it’s a safe option for sensitive horses or those with metabolic conditions. It’s packed with electrolytes and soaks down into an appetising cherry mash, making it a thoughtful, comprehensive choice for horses needing careful dietary management.

Spillers Perform & Restore Mash

Sizes: 20kg

RRP: £17.95

Soaking time in cold water: under 2 minutes

Feeding rate: 3.5kg dry weight per day (split into at least two meals)

This cost-effective mash is designed for performance horses needing fast recovery and condition support without excess starch. It’s cereal-free and low in sugar and starch, making it a smart option for horses prone to muscle issues or excitability.

It has added amino acids to promote muscle health and recovery. It also has electrolytes and antioxidants to help replace what’s lost through sweat. The mash soaks in less than two minutes and has an enticing apple aroma, making it easy to feed after hard work or travel.

Simple System Simply Complete

Sizes: 20kg

RRP: £27.25

Soaking time in cold water: 5 minutes

Feeding rate: Up to 0.5% of bodyweight per day (up to five feeds of 500g)

Simply Complete is a handy, quick-soaking mash that brings together top-quality forages and essential extras in one feed. It’s especially useful for performance, endurance and competition horses needing a boost in stamina, hydration and sodium levels.

Because it’s purely forage-based and free from starchy cereals, it can be fed right before exercise – or even immediately after, while your horse is still hot – to help with recovery. It’s a versatile option whether you’re looking to “target feed” small portions around work or feed larger amounts to support overall condition.

Rowen Barbary Sports Mash

Sizes: 1kg, 10kg tub, 20kg

RRP: £6.90 for 1kg, £22.50 for 10kg, £29.95 for 20kg

Soaking time in cold water: 10 minutes

Feeding rate: 500g dry weight per day

Rowen Barbary Sports Mash packs a lot into each serving, blending highly digestible fibres like soya hulls, sugar beet and grass nuts with electrolytes to help replace minerals lost through sweat. It also includes vitamins E and C for antioxidant and immune support, making it a solid choice for horses needing a bit more after intense work or travel.

Unique touches include calcareous marine algae and probiotics to promote gut health. Beetroot powder not only boosts recovery but also helps make the mash more appealing. Supplied in resealable pouches, it’s practical for both yard and travel use.

Premier Performance Fibre Hydration Mash

Sizes: 1kg, 2.5kg, 5kg, 20kg

RRP: £6.50 for 1kg, £12.50 for 2.5kg, £19.99 for 5kg, £32.99 for 20kg

Soaking time in cold water: 4 minutes

Feeding rate: Up to 3kg per day, or 500g with 1 litre water for rehydration

Premier Performance Fibre Hydration Mash is a versatile, grain-free mash. It’s low in sugar and starch (both just 4%), making it a smart choice for horses needing a controlled diet.

Packed with high-quality fibre sources, it includes a full spectrum of electrolytes to help maintain fluid balance, along with Acid Buff for digestive comfort. Alltech Nupro Technology adds further support for muscle recovery and performance. The highly palatable apple flavour encourages fussy eaters, and the mash soaks in just four minutes in cold water.

Whether used for rehydration after work, as a top-up feed, or even as a forage replacer, this mash is a practical option for horses needing extra care in training or competition.

Cavalor Sportmash Recup

Sizes: 1.5kg, 15kg

RRP: £7.50 for 1.5kg, £23.08 for 15kg

Soaking time in cold water: 5 minutes

Feeding rate: 500g dry weight per day

This mash features a blend of puffed grains and high-quality proteins with a carefully balanced amino acid profile, tailored to support muscle repair after intense work. It’s designed to be easily digestible while offering quick energy replenishment for horses in heavy training or competition.

Electrolytes like sodium, potassium, and chloride help restore mineral balance after sweating. It’s a practical choice for maintaining condition and aiding recovery without excessive starch or sugars.

What is the best mash for horses?

The best mash for your horse depends on why you’re feeding it and your horse’s individual needs. Different mashes serve different purposes. For hydration and recovery, rehydration mashes are a great choice. These quick-soaking feeds encourage water intake, help replace electrolytes lost through sweat, and support muscle recovery after exercise or travel. If your horse is prone to metabolic issues like equine metabolic syndrome, look for mashes that are low in sugar and starch.

If your horse needs extra fibre or conditioning, fibre-based mashes made from ingredients like beet pulp, grass nuts, or soya hulls can help boost calorie intake and support digestive health. Some mashes also work as forage replacements, which is helpful for horses with dental problems or reduced appetite.

When choosing a mash, check factors including soaking time, ingredient list – especially for horses with allergies or sensitivities – electrolyte content for hydration, and whether it suits your horse’s workload and dietary needs. Always introduce new feeds gradually and follow recommended feeding rates.

Does recovery mash have electrolytes?

Most recovery mashes do contain electrolytes. They’re designed to be fed as a soaked product to help increase your horse’s water intake and replenish the minerals lost through sweat after exercise, travel, or hot weather. Electrolytes like sodium, potassium and chloride are essential for maintaining hydration, muscle function, and overall recovery.

However, not all recovery mash recipes automatically include electrolytes. Some are purely fibre-based or designed for digestive support rather than post-work recovery. Always check the product label or description to see if electrolytes are included, and ensure the mash you choose matches your horse’s specific needs and workload.

What is the fastest way to hydrate a horse?

Dehydration not only seriously impacts a horse’s performance, it can also become life-threatening. Horse sweat is hypertonic, meaning it holds more salts than body fluids, so a sweating horse loses electrolytes faster than it loses water. Therefore, giving plain water to a dehydrated horse isn’t enough to fully rehydrate it.

Water alone can dilute the fluids around the body’s tissues and reduce the horse’s natural urge to drink more. That’s why the most effective way to rehydrate a horse is to include electrolytes in its feed or water. This helps replace lost salts and encourages further drinking.

For more tips, read our full guide on how to prevent, recognise and treat dehydration in horses.

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The best summer sheets for horses are designed to be worn out in the field when the weather is warm to protect your horse from the sun. Some of these rugs also offer protection from light showers like a no-fill rain sheet, but are made of a highly breathable fabric to prevent your horse from overheating.

Using a summer sheet can help to protect your horse from coat bleaching, sunburn (which is most common in horses with lighter coats or pink skin) and other sun-related illnesses, as summer sheets for horses offer a higher level of UV protection than most of the best fly rugs.

Best summer sheets for horses

LeMieux Arika Sunstopper Cooler Sheet

Colours: Stone

Sizes: 4ft9in – 7ft3in

UV protection: 98%

RRP: £99.95

The lightweight 450D ripstop upper blocks 98% of the sun’s rays, while the breathable micro-mesh lower section enhances airflow and shields against flies and insects. Features include a 45° angled T-bar front closure, patented two-part skirt, antibacterial and anti-static lining, plus a detachable neck.

WeatherBeeta Kool Coat Cotton Airstream II Detach-A-Neck

Colours: White/mint

Sizes: 5ft – 7ft

UV protection: 90%+

RRP: £74.99

This breathable and cool summer sheet with mesh panelling is a perfect alternative to a traditional mesh fly rug that protects your horse from flies and midges as well as harmful UV rays, offering 90%+ UV protection. The shoulders and mane and tail areas are lined to prevent rubbing. The rug fastens with a twin buckle chest strap, hidden adjustable surcingles, a ski clip closure on the detachable neck, and removable leg straps.

Horseware Amigo Summer Sheet Plus

Colours: Navy check/titanium grey and silver

Sizes: 4ft6in – 7ft3in

UV protection: 95%

RRP: From £103.95

This water-resistant and lightweight summer sheet is made from a durable polyester and cotton blend. It offers 95% UV protection, while also providing a layer of defence against flies and summer irritants. Features include a detachable hood, keg arches and adjustable surcingles for freedom of movement.

The rug is one of only two in this guide that are showerproof.

Masta Fieldmasta Fly Rug Combo

Colours: White/blue

Sizes: 4ft6in – 7ft6in

UV protection: 98%+

RRP: £99.99

This sheet can also double up as a fly rug. It has a polyester upper that provides more than 98% UV protection, while the heavyweight mesh panels allow for airflow and give protection from flies. The rug fastens with twin adjustable front clips, adjustable surcingles and leg straps. It has a unique domed neck design to help prevent mane loss and large leg gussets for freedom of movement.

Weatherbeeta Hybrid Seasons Combo Neck

Colours: White/maroon

Sizes: 4ft – 7ft3in

UV protection: 95%+

RRP: £99.99

This summer sheet is made from a water resistant 600D polyester fabric, offering protection during light rain showers and providing 95%+ UV protection. It’s shaped to fit your horse and has a wither relief pad for additional comfort, while the shoulders, mane area and full-wrap tail flap are lined to prevent rubbing. The rug fastens with a twin buckle chest strap, has cross surcingles and elasticated, removable leg straps, plus two touch-tape tabs on the neck.

The rug is one of only two in this guide that are showerproof.

Horseware Rambo Optimo Supreme Summer Sheet Plus

Colours: Navy check/thunderstorm grey and silver

Sizes: 5ft6in – 7ft3in

UV protection: 90%

RRP: From £147.95

This UV-protective summer sheet is made from a polycotton outer fabric that is designed for breathability and comfort. The bib front closure is adjustable to alleviate pressure points, and the very long shoulder gusset and dual leg arches offer a greater freedom of movement. The detachable hood is lined and elongated to provide extra coverage.

There is also lining at the shoulders and under the extra-long tail flap to prevent rubbing. It is fastened with three straight adjustable surcingles and features a tail strap to provide extra security.

WeatherBeeta Kool Coat Airstream III Combo Summer Sheet

Colours: White/navy

Sizes: 5ft – 7ft

UV protection: 90%+

RRP: £54.99

This rug is made of a strong and lightweight polyester outer, and has polyester lined shoulders to help prevent rubbing . It offers 90%+ UV protection and is quite traditional in design. It features traditional shoulder gussets, twin adjustable buckle front closure, low cross surcingles, has a large tail flap and adjustable, removable leg straps.

How to choose a summer sheet

When choosing a summer sheet, look for styles made from a lightweight material, such as polycotton. This material is also highly breathable, which will help to keep your horse cool in the sun. Some styles will also feature mesh sections to maximise airflow.

The best summer sheets are versatile and can also be used while travelling or in the stable in place of a travel rug, show rug or stable sheet. They are also really useful for protecting your horse’s coat from dust and dirt, which is handy prior to a competition.

Most summer sheets aren’t suitable for use in wet weather – if it’s wet and warm, you’re better off protecting your horse with one of the best waterproof fly rugs. However, if UV protection is particularly important to you, there are a small number that have a water-resistant top.

Do horses need UV protection?

Like humans, horses can get sunburnt and develop other skin issues as a result of UV rays. Protecting your horse against the sun is vital during the summer months, and a combination of good management and physical barriers to block UV will help to minimise the risks. Not all fly rugs and the best summer sheets for horses offer the same UV protection, but we’ve highlighted the level of protection each rug offers in this guide.

How does UV affect horses?

UV stands for ultraviolet – and UV radiation is a type of energy produced by the sun. UV is the best natural source of vitamin D, but too much UV exposure can cause problems, such as sunburn. While you can feel the heat from the sun, UV rays are not detectable. It’s important to protect your horse as you will only notice the effects once the damage has been done. The main ways UV affects horses include:

1. Coat bleaching – Colour change is a result of too much sun exposure; this is more common in darker coloured horses and will show up as lighter coloured patches. It can also affect manes and tails.

2. Sunburn – The sun’s rays can penetrate your horse’s coat and reach their skin. Horses with little or no pigmentation, such as greys or palominos, are more prone to sunburn. White markings and legs can also be affected so the use of fly leg boots can help protect from UV and pesky flies.

3. Photosensitivity – This is a light sensitivity issue, which can resemble sunburn but it is caused internally. Certain grass, feeds and medication release photodynamic compounds inside the horse, which then react with UV light. It can leas to blistered, itch, flaky skin.

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Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Horse & Hound magazine, out every Thursday, is packed with all the latest news and reports, as well as interviews, specials, nostalgia, vet and training advice. Find how you can enjoy the magazine delivered to your door every week, plus options to upgrade your subscription to access our online service that brings you breaking news and reports as well as other benefits.

Horse flies (Tabinidae) are ever-present pests during the summer, with horse fly bites being a particular problem for horses, and riders, alike. Flies can carry disease and an allergic reaction can result from any fly bite, while all flies cause annoyance and irritation to horses and humans alike – an important consideration when working or competing horses. Methods of protection include horse fly traps, repellents in the forms of sprays and gels, and fly rugs.

What do horse flies look like?

Horse flies are a fairly large, dark, winged insect, that is cylindrical in shape and can measure up to 1in (2.54cm) in length, making them significantly larger than most flies. They have a large head with very large eyes.

Do horse flies bite?

Female horse flies bite to pierce the skin and feed on a horse – or human’s – blood. They need to drink blood to support their egg production. The insect’s jaw is shaped like scissors and can cut into the skin to access the blood capillaries close to the skin’s surface. Their jaw also has small hooks to help them hold on while sucking the blood, which can make them difficult to dislodge once they have locked on to the skin. The males do not bite – they feed on nectar.

Favourite feeding sites for horse flies include the horse’s underside, legs, neck and withers. They will also bite any exposed areas of human skin. The bites appear as painful papules (pimples) and wheals (small lumps) with a characteristic, central ulcer.

What attracts horse flies?

Horse flies are most active on warm, sultry days and are attracted by dark, rapidly moving objects, sweat and carbon dioxide. As a result dark horses being exercised on warm summer days tend to attract horse flies more so than their lighter counterparts. When protecting horses from flies during turnout, light coloured fly rugs are often used, along with fly repellents and fly traps, such as these on Amazon. These flies will rarely venture into dark areas, so stabling can offer some protection, too.

Where do horse flies live?

The adult horsefly is attracted to areas with moist soil, such as near streams and damp woodland. The females will lay their eggs on wet soil or vegetation that overhangs damp/wet areas so the larvae can burrow into the soft soil and feed on the organic debris and small insects before they transition into the adult fly.

When do horse flies die off?

The flies typically emerge in June and July in the UK and horse fly season lasts throughout the summer months. An individual fly has an adult lifespan of 30–60 days, although the life cycle of the pest is one year.

How to treat horse fly bites

For a one-off bite, apply an ice pack (like this one on Amazon) or bathe with cool, salt water (use a teaspoon of salt to two mugs of water). However, with multiple bites, a mild horse shampoo can help to remove irritating scurf or bacteria and cool the inflamed skin. A topical anti-itch preparation, such as colloidal oatmeal, witch hazel, calamine lotion or zinc oxide cream can also help. In addition, try to prevent the horse making the affected area worse by rubbing. It is rare for a bite to turn septic; if the area is open and weeping, bathe with a mild antiseptic solution, such as Hibiscrub (sold on Amazon), and if this does not help, consult your vet.

How to protect your horse against horse flies

Using barriers, such as anti-midge sweet itch rugs/fly rugs and neck covers, fly masks, fly fringes or other protective gear is a good place to start. If the weather is changeable, a fly rug with water-resistant top panel may be useful, too.

Horse fly repellents

In general, home-made fly repellents are of little benefit against horseflies, as they are robust creatures. Insecticides known as synthetic pyrethroids – especially permethrin or cypermethrin – offer the best solution and can be bought online. Follow the directions on the product, as many are not suitable for daily use and always do a spot test on a small area first to test for sensitivity. Insecticides can be applied to stables and field shelters to help eliminate the insects.

Horse fly traps

There are a range of horse fly traps available that are designed to attract the flies, before trapping the insects to prevent breeding.

Other types of flies that trouble horses

Black flies (Simuliidae) are small in size (approximately 2–5mm) and breed in rapidly moving water. High-risk times are dawn and dusk during spring and early summer, when stabling may be helpful. These flies commonly feed around the face – particularly inside the ears, where they trigger allergic skin reactions to their saliva, and distract the horse – but also on the horse’s neck and underside. Bites form as painful lumps, often with pin-prick areas of bleeding and crusting.

Synthetic pyrethroid fly sprays can act as a deterrent, although physical barriers such as ear nets and oil-based products – oil of citronella, for example – will discourage these flies from landing on the horse. Petroleum jelly applied inside the ears may prevent the insects biting.

Midges (Culicoides) are 1mm-3mm long and hover in swarms at dawn and dusk. Eggs are laid in standing water, so avoid stagnant areas. Different species of midges feed at different sites on the horse. Classically, mane and tail hairs are broken or rubbed away, exacerbating sweet itch in animals that are allergic to the bites.

Insect repellents can be very effective against these pests. Permethrin-based products are best and should be applied in late afternoon. Oil-based products can be applied several times daily to prevent flies landing. Bringing horses in before dusk and using a fan to create a brisk breeze helps keep midges away, while rugs may also be useful.

Stable flies lay eggs in moist, rotting vegetation – typically, hay or silage that is contaminated with urine, water or manure – so are associated with poor hygiene. They feed on horses’ legs and abdomens, and bites typically appear as itchy or painful wheals or papules with a central crust. The best prevention is to maintain high hygiene standards, but repellents can also be used. Permethrin-based products are most effective directed at the legs.

Other problematic insects include mosquitoes, bees and wasps – these produce uncomfortable bites, as well as causing alarm to horses. While wasps and bees are present throughout the day, mosquitoes are at their worst in the two hours after sunset.

As they are alkaline, wasp stings should be bathed with a dilute acid, such as vinegar or lemon juice. Bee stings, however, are acidic and should be bathed with bicarbonate of soda. The bee leaves its sting behind, so try to remove this with tweezers, as venom will continue to enter the skin. If the stinger is below the surface, it will be shed with normal skin healing.

Other methods to prevent flies

• Eliminate puddles and ponds of still water, where midges might breed
• Practise good hygiene around the yard
• Worm horses against bot flies in winter
• Keep horses in when the flies are bad
• Use a fan in the stable to blow away flies

You may find these useful…

10 of the best fly sprays we’ve put to the test and found to really work

Find the perfect fly mask to keep your horse comfortable all summer long

12 of the best fly rugs that offer horses extra protection from summer pests

12 of the best waterproof fly rugs – perfect for summer showers and sunshine

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

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Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

Perfect for a quick, refreshing wash after exercise or when the weather is hot, the best no-rinse washes for horses are an ideal solution if you’re not planning a full bath. A post-ride wash will help eliminate sweat and grime from your horse’s coat, and some formulations even assist with tired muscles or deterring flies.

There’s nothing I enjoy more than giving my horses a refreshing wash down to help keep them cool after a long ride, especially when the products offer added benefits. I’ve put together a selection of no-rinse washes, each with unique advantages, to help you find the perfect match for your needs.

Best no-rinse washes for horses

Hy Equestrian Magic Refresh Eucalyptus Wash

Sizes: 500ml

Refreshing wash gently soothes your horse’s skin and muscles post exercise, promoting wellbeing and recovery. The formula cleanses the coat leaving your horse looking and feeling fresh.

NAF Cooling Wash

Sizes: 500ml, 5l

Formulated to cool, relax and refresh tired muscles and remove the build-up of sweat. Ideal for a refreshing cleanse after exercise or a quick cool down due to the heat.

We keep a bottle of this on the lorry to have to hand when we wash down the horses. It’s super handy when we have limited access to water – it’s great for removing sweat, the horse’s coats look clean and refreshed after use and it leaves a nice smell, too.

Supreme Products Tropical Treat Lavender Wash

Sizes: 500ml

Fragranced with lavender, Carribbean berry and melon, this wash is perfect for use after exercise or on a hot day as it releases calming aromas and promotes general all-round health.

Lincoln Summer Citronella Wash

Sizes: 500ml

This cooling and rejuvenating wash contains citronella to deter flies and peppermint to help cool your horse’s skin to aid the rapid recovery of tired muscles.

Cavalor CoolSens

Sizes: 500ml, 2l

A concentrated liniment that is refreshing and cooling to help relax your horse’s muscles after exercise and support recovery. With added menthol, eucalyptus and tea tree oil.

Equine America Fungatrol No Rinse Body Wash

Sizes: 500ml

A non-irritant, no-rinse wash with powerful plant-based ingredients. Can also be used during the winter months if your horse has dry and flaky skin.

Carr & Day & Martin Lavender Liniment

Sizes: 500ml

Dual purpose liniment, containing menthol, witch hazel, rosemary and lavender, with both heating and cooling effects. It can be used neat as a rub, diluted in hot water for a warm soothing wash or diluted in cold water for a refreshing rinse to cut through grease and sweat.

LeMieux Medi Slosh

Sizes: 500ml, 1l, 2.5l

A medicated antiseptic, antibacterial and anti-fungal wash that deep cleans your horse’s coat. Ideal for scurfy and itchy skin, it can be used daily or when skin irritations occur. Can be used neat or diluted to leave a high shine and a lovely smell.

Barrier Citrus Wash

Sizes: 500ml, 1l, 5l

A light and uplifting wash with a zesty fly-repelling fragrance. It uses citronella oil, chamomile and organic aloe vera to help freshen, deodorise and clean your horse’s coat.

Smart Grooming Peppermint Splosh Wash

Sizes: 500ml, 1l, 5l

A blend of witch hazel and peppermint oil provides a deep cleansing and refreshing wash to cool, cleanse and effectively remove sweat, dirt and grease from your horse’s coat.

Pro-Equine Coolwash

Sizes: 1l, 5l

A soothing but refreshing blend of peppermint, tea tree and aloe vera. For use after exercise to help remove sweat and grease, and refreshes and cools your horse’s body and muscles. Can also be used before clipping with warm water.

Nettex Citronella No-Rinse Wash

Sizes: 250ml, 500ml

Used to enhance coat condition with a zesty summer fragrance. Great for use after exercise or on a hit day to refresh and restore your horse’s coat.

I like to use this wash in the summer – I found a little goes a long way and the pleasant citronella sent lasts for a while. When topped up with one of the best fly sprays it adds a bit more protection from those pesky flies.

Mastacare Lavender Wash

Sizes: 500ml, 2l

This wash is for deep cleaning and muscle relaxation with lavender essential oils. It’s perfect for lifting sweat and dirt out of your horse’s coat and has a lovely lavender aroma.

Absorbine CoolDown

Sizes: 950ml

This all-natural, herbal bodywash is made with 12 herbs and essential oils to gently cool and refresh tired muscles. It also conditions the skin and coat without stripping out essential oils, which makes it ideal for regular use.

EqWax Super Concentrated Itch Away No-Rinse Wash

Sizes: 250ml, 2.5l

This soothing no-rinse wash is made with natural plant oils that are traditionally used to support skin comfort during midge season. Perfect for itchy horses.

Why use a no-rinse wash

You can enhance your horse’s wash-down routine with a no-rinse wash. These washes offer a quick and easy way to provide extra care, and are also a great option if your horse dislikes the hosepipe.

With a variety of no-rinse washes for horses available, you can choose the best one to suit your horse’s needs. Popular options include muscle-relaxing lavender, refreshing peppermint, zesty citronella, or cooling and medicated formulas.

How to use a no-rinse wash

Simply dilute a measure in a bucket of water and sponge it over your horse’s body. Some washes can be used neat – just check the manufacturer’s instructions. No rinsing is needed; leave your horse to dry naturally without scraping off the excess liquid.

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Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Horse & Hound magazine, out every Thursday, is packed with all the latest news and reports, as well as interviews, specials, nostalgia, vet and training advice. Find how you can enjoy the magazine delivered to your door every week, plus options to upgrade your subscription to access our online service that brings you breaking news and reports as well as other benefits.

If you’re looking for the best sun cream for horses, you’ve come to the right place. It’s not just humans who have to think about using sun protection during the summer months. Horses with pink-skinned areas are particularly susceptible to sun damage, so they’ll benefit from the best horse-safe sun creams to help protect their sensitive skin and prevent sun burn. Along with the best fly spray, it’s an essential part of your summer horsecare kit.

The best sun creams for horses are those that are easy to apply, offer good coverage, are long-lasting and provide adequate UVA and UVB protection.

Best sun creams for horses

Aniwell FiltaBac Antibacterial Cream

Sizes: 50g, 120g, 220g or 500g

SPF: 30+

H&H Rating: 10/10, H&H Approved

This protective and effective antibacterial sunblock cream is formulated to nourish and condition the skin while offering protection from bacteria. It is described as acting as a second skin that allows the cells to breathe, and provides a barrier to the environment, including rain, dirt or insects.

We tested this sun cream and found it stayed on really well, while doing a great job of soothing and protecting the skin. It has a thick consistency making it easy to apply. In our opinion, it’s well worth the investment, plus you can use it as a general antibacterial cream, too.

Read our full Aniwell FiltaBac review.

Lincoln Sun Bloc

Sizes: 200g

SPF: Yes

H&H Rating: 9/10, H&H Approved

This protective, soothing sun cream has been developed to safeguard delicate, exposed areas of skin that are at a high risk of sunburn. It contains UV filters to reflect and absorb UVA and UVB rays, while the water-resistant properties enhance protection, ensuring each application is long-lasting.

We tested this sun bloc and found it was easy to apply as the cream is tinted, which made it really easy to apply as you could see the areas already covered. A little went a long way, too, which makes this sun cream quite economical and good value.

Read our full Lincoln Sun Bloc review.

Barrier Sunburn Soother

Sizes: 250ml

SPF: 25

H&H Rating: 8/10

A soothing and moisturising liquid formulation, this fragrance-free cream is rapidly absorbed. It uses natural and 100% non-toxic ingredients, and offers SPF25 protection.

We tested this sun cream and we found it really easy to apply due to the consistency. Although once it soaked in you wouldn’t know the product was on which meant it was a great option for taking to a competition.

Read our full Barrier Sunburn Soother review.

Gold Label Sun Guard

Sizes: 100g, 250g

SPF: 50

H&H Rating: 8/10

This SPF50 sunblock soother from Gold Label is aimed at horses with areas that are susceptible to harm from the sun. It is easy to apply, and contains only natural ingredients, including shea butter and calamine. Also available as a lotion.

We tested this sun cream and found it trickier to apply than some the others tested, so may not be suitable for fussy horses – however, once it was on it did a great job and you can trust it to stay on and provide protection all day.

Read our Gold Label Sun Guard review.

Pro-Equine Lavender Horse Sunblock

Sizes: 400g

SPF: 50

Combines cooling zinc oxide and lavender formula that soothes problematic, broken skin while providing sun protection. The cooling paste dries quickly and can last all day. Also good for irritating insect bites to help cool and soothe hot spots.

Biteback Products Sweet Sun Relief

Sizes: 250g, 500g

SPF: 30+

This plant-based cream forms a barrier to midge bites, promotes calm skin, and has the added benefit of a sun screen. It’s not oily or greasy, and it protects against the drying effects of the sun.

Equus Health Ozvet Sun Off

Sizes: 250g

SPF: Yes

This is a powerful and effective complete sun block, barrier and support for sunburn. It’s in the form of a thick white cream and only needs to be applied every two to three days. It can also be used on broken skin.

Do horses need sun cream?

Horses with pink-skinned areas, such as their muzzle, are particularly susceptible to sun damage. They’ll benefit from the best horse-safe sun creams to help protect their sensitive skin from the sun’s rays. While you can’t apply sun cream to their coat, you can use a fly rug or UV-protective summer sheet to prevent bleaching, and fly masks with noses will help to offer extra protection to the muzzle.

Can you use human sun cream on horses?

In most cases, it is OK to use human sun creams on horses. However, sun creams that are specifically designed for horses are more likely to stay on for longer, and some have additional benefits, too.

You might also like:

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Find the perfect fly mask to keep your horse comfortable all summer long

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Horse & Hound magazine, out every Thursday, is packed with all the latest news and reports, as well as interviews, specials, nostalgia, vet and training advice. Find how you can enjoy the magazine delivered to your door every week, plus options to upgrade your subscription to access our online service that brings you breaking news and reports as well as other benefits.

Come December when it’s pouring with rain or we’re breaking the ice on the trough, these things will be the least of our worries. But right now, here are a few summer hardships we’re struggling with…

1. White hands on brown arms

Having experienced the delight of rope burns and having learnt that lesson well, we now follow the sage advice of wear riding gloves at all times while riding/handling horses, which means, like most riders, we are blessed with some interesting tan lines. The most amusing of these lies around the wrists, with hands that are so pale by comparison to your forearms that they look like they belong to a different individual completely.

Of course, if you want to avoid joining this popular club this summer, check out some of the best summer riding gloves, which are made of a special lightweight, cool fabric that allows tanning to take place through the back of the glove, so your hands can tan at the same rate as your wrists and arms. What a great idea!

2. White legs (despite incredibly brown arms)

Continuing with a theme here. Riders legs, never being out of breeches, can be so pasty in relation to the corresponding arms that they actually reflect sunlight when on a rare afternoon off, they are exposed to a few rays. Given this unprecedented exposure, you can be sure they will proceed to turn the shade of a winner’s rosette in the time it takes to ride prelim 18. Time to dig out the factor 50, as unfortunately we are unaware of any tan through breeches being available.

3. Deeply (un)attractive red lumps on both arms and legs

Courtesy of horseflies. For us more delicate specimens, a horsefly bite (or three) can render us not just cursing and scratching, but coming up in impressively large welds as our skin reacts as aggressively as a horse you’ve decided to ride at feed time. Nothing eases the irritation, whereas the heat exacerbates it tenfold. *scratch, scratch*

4. Damp socks…

This is one of those situations where you really can’t win. Either you continue to wear your sensible, protective boots while doing essential tasks around the yard, and end up with damp sweaty feet… or, despite all advice, reason and common sense, you swap out of your sensible, protective footwear into trainers. Trainers that have holes in them — either because they’re your old, knackered trainers that are now consigned to the yard, or because they’re your smart running trainers that you paid extra for to have holes in, to make you more aerodynamic or something.

If these do happen to be in the car and you think it won’t destroy them to wear them at the yard just this once, please note that it will. You will inevitably end up hosing off a horse in these shoes. Because it’s hot. So hot you put your trainers on. And if you avoid hosing off a horse in them, then you’ll spill not insignificant amounts from a water bucket over your feet instead. NB: please don’t ever choose flipflops if you wish to retain all your toes.

5. …and the dirt comes too

In addition to being soggy (see above), your socks (and consequently feet) will also be filled/covered with sand/dirt/bedding from the school/field gateway/stable. Because it’s so damn hot you put on those trainers with holes in. And then you got on with things.

6. The sting of a horse’s tail

There are few things more briefly painful that a tail lash, invariably to the face, while you try to groom your equine as a fly lands on his flank. And another one. Oh it’s back again. Relentlessly. Unsurprisingly, since horse tail is used to string violins I believe, this stings rather a lot.

Other than that, summer with horses (relaxing ride on a chilled equine before sunset anyone?) is heaven, and we wouldn’t swap it for the world.

You may also be interested in:

Riding gloves designed to be worn in warmer weather

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Farting in dressage tests — and 5 more ways your horse is sure to embarrass you

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Horse & Hound magazine, out every Thursday, is packed with all the latest news and reports, as well as interviews, specials, nostalgia, vet and training advice. Subscribe today and enjoy the magazine delivered to your door every week, plus unlimited website access and digital versions of the magazine dating back to September 2012.

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

Living in a country with a climate as changeable, and at times inclement, as our own, it’s easy to under estimate the risk of sunburn in horses, with animals who live out all through the summer being particularly vulnerable.

“The pigmentation in hair and skin protects against the penetration of ultraviolet light, so any non-pigmented horse or an animal with white-skinned areas is prone to sunburn damage,” says Dr Janet Littlewood MRCVS, a specialist in veterinary dermatology. “Although the horses most at risk are those kept at permanent pasture in the summer months, it’s important not to forget that sunlight can also be damaging at other times of the year.”

The face and heels of horses are most commonly affected by sunburn because these often have non-pigmented patches and less hair coverage.

“It’s not a breed-related problem because nearly all breeds produce horses with white facial markings and legs,” explains Dr Littlewood, “but owners of animals with a thin coat should be particularly careful.”

What harm does sunburn cause?

In most horses the only harm caused by sunburn is occasional discomfort, redness and peeling. However, repeated damage can cause significant long-term problems, warns Dr Littlewood.

“It can result in thickening and scaling on the surface of the skin [keratosis], which can sometimes transform to skin cancer — squamous cell carcinoma,” she says.

“Ultraviolet light exposure also has adverse effects on skin immune mechanisms. Hence, horses with white legs tend to suffer more problems with infections, such as bacterial folliculitis and mud fever. These conditions tend to become worse and harder to manage with time.”

How to prevent sunburn in horses

Ensuring fields have shady areas is essential, but even the most severe weather conditions won’t stop some horses grazing. There are equine sun creams available, but some owners prefer to use products made for people — high-factor water-resistant creams that are safe for children are a popular choice. But, unlike a child, it isn’t possible to bribe a horse into co-operating with ice-lollies and treats. Coloured “stick” sunblocks can be easier to apply and show up any “missed bits”.

Fly masks that cover the head and muzzle may provide some relief, while UV-protective summer sheets can help shield horses with more widespread sensitive areas. You can also buy muzzle protectors that attach to a field-safe headcollar for additional UV protection.

What to do if your horse is sunburnt

Dr Littlewood suggests that where prevention has come too late, horses should be brought inside until the problem has been resolved.

“If skin is blistered or oozing, veterinary attention should be sought. Generally, treatment is symptomatic: gentle topical bathing to remove crusts; emollient creams and antibiotics if there’s evidence of secondary infection,” she says.

All owners should monitor signs carefully, especially in an animal that has become inexplicably more sunburnt, to ensure that the horse isn’t suffering from photosensitisation. This is a condition where non- and lightly pigmented skin reacts abnormally to ultraviolet light.

“This occurs when there are reactive compounds — photosensitisers — in the horse’s circulation that cause tissue damage,” explains Dr Littlewood.

Photosensitisers can be found in some drugs, dyes and plants, including St John’s Wort and some clovers. Other plants, such as buttercups and cow parsley, contain light-reactive substances that can be absorbed directly into the muzzle during grazing.

“The prognosis for horses with primary photosensitisation is good,” says Dr Littlewood. “The underlying cause can be removed and the sores treated.

“Photosensitisation can also occur when a horse has severe liver damage, most commonly caused by eating ragwort. When the liver isn’t functioning properly, it cannot process chlorophyll fully. This results in the presence of photosensitive phylloerythrin in the tissues. The prognosis for horses with this ‘secondary’ photosensitisation is poor, so any animal showing clinical signs of the condition should undergo thorough investigation of liver function by a vet,” warns Dr Littlewood.

You might also be interested in…

Tried and tested sun creams for protecting your horse’s pink skin this summer

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Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Horse & Hound magazine, out every Thursday, is packed with all the latest news and reports, as well as interviews, specials, nostalgia, vet and training advice. Find how you can enjoy the magazine delivered to your door every week, plus options to upgrade your subscription to access our online service that brings you breaking news and reports as well as other benefits.

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

After one of the most lacklustre springs in recent memory for the UK, there are rumours that temperatures are set to soar, so here are Horse & Hound’s top tips on how to cool down a horse when things get hot.

1. If your horse is normally stabled at night and out during the day, consider reversing his turnout times to avoid the hottest temperatures and the worst of the flies.

2. If your horse has to stay out all day, ensure there is somewhere he can escape from the direct sun, such as some trees or a field shelter. If there is no permanent shelter, you could use some sheeting to rig up a safe, temporary area of shade, so the horse has the option to choose the shade if it wishes to.

3. If your horse is out during the day, a light coloured fly rug or summer sheet will work better than a dark coloured one for keeping the horse cool – white is best for reflecting the sun’s heat. A rug that has a loose weave material will allow the horse’s body heat and sweat to escape more than a tight weave, but it will also provide less effective protection from flies, so there is a trade off to consider. Wetting the rug while it is on the horse will further improve its cooling properties, so hosing the rug down while it is on the horse multiple times a day is worthwhile in the hottest temperatures.

4. White areas on the face and heels are most commonly affected by sunburn because they have less skin pigment and hair coverage, so remember to apply suncream to these areas. A fly mask with UV protective properties may also be helpful.

5. If your horse is stabled, setting up a stable fan out of reach of your horse may help to increase airflow and have a cooling effect. When your horse is out of the stable, spray the walls thoroughly with an insecticide to discourage stable flies from lingering there.

6. If you have to transport your horse anywhere, leave as early as possible to avoid travelling in the heat and reduce the risk of getting stuck in traffic during the warmest part of the day. Professional transporters in the UK are not allowed to move horses in temperatures exceeding 30°C and it is recommended that private owners follow the same rules.

7. If you are transporting your horse, make sure all suitable windows are open to keep fresh air flowing through the horsebox. If you have a roof vent, then opening only the rear section while you are moving helps to draw the hot air out of the vehicle while cool air can enter through the windows. On arrival, the roof vent should be opened fully, but also consider whether the horses will be cooler standing on the lorry or trailer out of direct sun (consider dogs left in hot cars), or whether they would be better off outside in the shade.

How to cool down a horse quickly

8. If you suspect that your horse may be suffering from heat stroke, put him in the shade and pour considerable amounts of cold water over his whole body, allowing the water to run off or evaporate without scraping off the excess liquid, as this is how best to cool down a horse quickly. You should also offer the horse water to drink every few minutes. If the horse appears wobbly (ataxic) then try to keep the horse walking in the shade, while continuing to apply cold water. If signs persist, contact your vet as a matter of urgency.

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Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Horse & Hound magazine, out every Thursday, is packed with all the latest news and reports, as well as interviews, specials, nostalgia, vet and training advice. Find how you can enjoy the magazine delivered to your door every week, plus options to upgrade your subscription to access our online service that brings you breaking news and reports as well as other benefits.

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

If you’ve spent any time in the great outdoors this spring (and if you’re horsey, you certainly have) you might have asked yourself ‘are midges worse this year?’ They might be tiny, but it’s as hard to ignore these buzzing, biting beasties as it is horseflies. It doesn’t take much exposure to their mischief to have you wondering whether there are more midges about than usual this year.

But is there any truth to the notion that midge activity is on the up in 2024? We spoke to Dr Alison Blackwell (MSc, PhD), who spent four years conducting post-doctorate midge and insect behaviour research. Dr Blackwell continued to study midges and other insects for a decade and went on to form APS Biocontrol, the company that produces Smidge, an insect repellent.

When asked what inspired her career in insect behaviour research, Dr Blackwell told H&H: “I don’t really know! By chance I ended up working on midges in Scotland and they’re an interesting insect in that they are so successful in a relatively inhospitable habitat. They have lots of great survival mechanisms. They don’t transmit any human diseases in the UK, but this year there is Bluetongue virus (BTV) in some areas. This affects sheep and cattle and is midge-transmitted, so they are important to consider.”

Midge activity: are midges worse this year?

A part-indicator in midge activity according to Dr Blackwell is a boost in customer purchases.

“It’s got really busy for us in the last week or so sales-wise. I think it’s because of that warm spell we had, which was preceded by wet weather. These are perfect conditions for midges emerging.

“Last year, we had peak populations for the first half of the summer in Scotland and then there was a really dry spell. The second generation of midges was much lower than you’d expect because of that. This was on a localised scale, though.” Dr Blackwell continued to explain that midge numbers can vary significantly depending on your local weather conditions. “In contrast, in parts of the north west of Scotland where it’s more damp, the midges keep going in large numbers.”

All in all, Dr Blackwell believes there is some truth to it – ideal midge conditions have increased midge activity, so people are justified to speculate ‘are midges worse this year?’. The good news is, not all of them are out for blood.

“Also, you’ve got lots of chironomids, non-biting midges,” continues Dr Blackwell. “These the kinds of insects you see swarming over streams. They literally emerge for 24 hours, mate and die off. There’s truth to it, but not all the midges are biting, I don’t think. There are other species around too.”

Why are midges important?

It might be tough to swallow (especially if you’ve ever experienced having one fly directly into your mouth), but midges are an essential part of life, confirms Dr Blackwell.

“They’re part of the ecosystem, part of the diet of bats and small birds,” she says. “The juvenile larva stages are about four to five centimetres below the soil surface and are part of decomposition in the food chain. They digest decaying organic matter, so they are important.”

Which months are the worst for midges?

According to Dr Blackwell, midges spend the winter in their larval stages, hibernating under the soil. But when the days get longer and warmer, they spring into action. “That’s when they can turn into adults and emerge,” she tells H&H.

It’s at this stage that wet spring weather can be an advantage to the midge. “If it’s damp, it’s easier for them to get out of the soil.

“Most years, you have your first big midge emergence in the first week of June and then the adult females lay their eggs. Those eggs develop into a second batch of midges about six weeks later. So, about mid-July, you get a second peak.

“The second peak females mate and their eggs will normally develop all the way through to the final larval stage. Often by that time, it’s September, and they go into their hibernation state. However, if you get a warm autumn, you sometimes get a third peak of midges.”

That’s not to say that midges are a permanent summer fixture. When we ask: ‘are midges worse this year’, we perhaps should be wondering if they’ve simply got off to a good start. As we move into warmer months a heatwave could send them packing. “They don’t like very hot, dry weather,” continues Dr Blackwell, “and they don’t like windy weather. They’re tiny; they only have a 2mm wingspan, so they dehydrate really quickly and they can’t cope with much of a breeze.”

Horse owners in Scotland can make use of Dr Blackwell’s sophisticated midge prediction tool.

“We run the online Scottish midge forecast, we’re seeing fours and fives on there with people reporting more midges.

“It’s a bit like the pollen forecast, you click on any town in Scotland and get your five-day forecast.”

How to keep midges away from horses

The obvious answer is using the one of the best fly sprays or best fly gels on your horse. Dr Blackwell tells us the active ingredient in Smidge is picaridin, and though Smidge isn’t licensed for animal use, riders can apply this to themselves. Unlike DEET, a common ingredient in equine fly sprays, picaridin doesn’t have a destructive effect on materials such as plastic and nylon, so it’s safe to use around your equipment, such as your best fly rugs and fly masks.

“Other things to use are CO2-producing traps,” she continues. “These traps pretend they’re something the midge wants to bite. They put out an attractive scent and the midges get caught.

“Good hygiene on yards and farms will help, so managing your dung heap well and keeping your stable as clean as you can.

“If you horse is in, create some kind of air current if you can. Midges don’t fly in a high breeze, and I know people who have put fans up to turn the midges away from getting into stabled areas.”

In the past, Dr Blackwell has been involved in a research project into a sweet itch vaccine development. While no vaccine was produced, some vets in the UK recommend vaccinating sweet itch-prone equines with a medication that was originally developed to combat ringworm, but appears to reduce the signs of sweet itch.

What does the future hold for midges?

While midge numbers are affected by yearly fluctuations in weather, they’re definitely here to stay – and our climate may become more midge-friendly.

“Midge numbers largely depend on the conditions each year,” Dr Blackwell tells us. “That said, generally with climate change conditions, warmer, wetter weather is probably going to extend the season of the midges a little bit more. We might see this third generation of midges more frequently in September/October time.

“It probably won’t extend their habitat, because they’re limited to where they can breed and where the soil is preferable to them. But the general thinking is midges could be around for a bit longer [each year].”

You may also be interested in…

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12 of the best fly rugs that offer horses extra protection from summer pests

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Horse & Hound magazine, out every Thursday, is packed with all the latest news and reports, as well as interviews, specials, nostalgia, vet and training advice. Find how you can enjoy the magazine delivered to your door every week, plus options to upgrade your subscription to access our online service that brings you breaking news and reports as well as other benefits.

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

Most owners will need to use a hose on their horses at some point – whether that’s to wash them down after exercise during warm weather, or if they pick up an injury that requires cold hosing, but not all horses enjoy the experience and can be fidgety. So Jason Webb, who runs Your Horsemanship, which specialises in starting young horses under saddle and retraining horses with behavioural and ridden problems, offers his expert advice on teaching a horse to stand while being hosed to make life easier for both you and your horse.

Teaching a horse to stand while being hosed: advice from an expert

Jason says that “there really is a simple answer to solving this problem” and it starts with being able to control your horse’s body and feet.

“Firstly, I need to be able to move my horse’s hind end around me,” he explains. “Then I need to be able to keep my horse out of my personal space.”

Jason says that it is important anything new to the horse is introduced with consistency.

“I see a lot of people introducing the horse to a hose by turning it on, and just letting it run by them for a little bit and letting them look at it. Eventually your horse will become familiar with it, but for some horses that’s only OK if you leave it near them and don’t bring it any closer.”

However, this can prove problematic as you try to progress with teaching a horse to stand while being hosed by bringing the hose closer.

“When a horse is looking at something they’re not sure about, they will exercise a little bit of caution and tend to move away from it,” says Jason. “What tends to happens when your horse reacts negatively is that the handler either takes the horse away from the hose, or takes the hose away from your horse.

“The problem with this response from the handler is that your horse gets to relax when moving away from the object, so the next time you present the object, your horse will move away, knowing that you will allow them to do so and that takes the pressure away from them.”

Jason recommends the best way to teach a horse to stand while being hosed starts by lengthening out the hose so that it is lying flat on the ground.

“I then direct my horse in a really small circle stepping over the hose to the left and then one circle stepping over the hose to the right,” says Jason. “Once my horse is comfortable about stepping over the hose, I turn the hose on and I put my finger over the end of the hose so creates a fan-type spray. Then I turn it on – my horse may look at it and be a little bit worried, but I will be prepared to direct my horse around the circle I’ve just taught them, so they are moving around me rather than pulling away.”

Jason suggests initially directing the hose on to the least sensitive area of the horse that you can access, which in this case is their shoulder.

“I start with a nice even, gentle spray and I put it straight onto the horse’s shoulder. They may jump a little, in which case just allow your horse to move around for one circle, while keeping the spray on them. They might start a little bit flighty, but then they’ll realise that it’s just water and start to slow down in their movement and start to relax.

“As they start to relax, they’ll eventually stop. At the point where they stop, take the hose away from them. What this does is it teaches your horse that if they stop moving, the hose goes away.”

Once this step is mastered, Jason recommends moving the hose into a slightly different position so you can spray the other shoulder.

“Prepare yourself again, and have the hosepipe at an angle so that your horse will most likely move forward and around the circle again. If they go backwards, just keep the spray on until they stop going backwards, then take it away, bring the horse back to where you started and repeat the process.”

Jason says once you can spray your horse’s shoulders on both sides with them standing still, to end the session for that day.

“The next day I use the same process to do the other parts of the horse’s body. When it comes to the legs, I spray the legs until the horse puts their foot on the ground and is not moving, then I take the spray away.

“By following these steps, your horse will very quickly learn to stand still patiently while you hose them off.”

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Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Horse & Hound magazine, out every Thursday, is packed with all the latest news and reports, as well as interviews, specials, nostalgia, vet and training advice. Find how you can enjoy the magazine delivered to your door every week, plus options to upgrade your subscription to access our online service that brings you breaking news and reports as well as other benefits.

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

As have been treated to rainfall, storms and a noticeable lack of sunshine throughout the winter, equestrians can be forgiven if they have forgotten what summer even looks like. With this in mind here is a glimpse of what is to come when the warmer season actually hits.

Here are 21 things we have to look forward to during the summer…

1. Riding after work

The number one thing we are excited about is being able to clock off and go out for a leisurely hack, hit a schooling session or get a lesson in during daylight hours.

2. Turning out without rugs…

We love being able to watch our pals enjoy a naked frolic around in the sunshine.

3. … and not having to hose legs when we bring them back in

A quick brush over with a curry comb will suffice.

4. Less hay or haylage

Lots of spring grass means many horses can look well on less forage. A winner for the wallet.

5. Lots of competitions

All things being well, hopefully there will be a good selection of shows and events you’re already getting giddy about the prospect of attending, either as a spectator or a competitor.

6. Cross-country courses

That place you drive past in winter and it’s always closed due to wet ground will be open for you to explore and enjoy.

7. Championship fixtures

Summer horses are made in the winter, and this is your chance to really shine and show off your hard work.

8. Glossy coats

My horse is shining like a new penny and I haven’t even groomed him.

9. The occasional rain storm

While we love the sunshine, the odd bout of rain certainly makes the grass grow and softens up the hard ground. It’s a welcome sight if we get a heatwave.

10. Bargain winter rugs

Top tip? Make sure you check out the summer sales for discount winter rugs for next season. Organisation is key.

11. Wearing short boots on the yard

You can temporarily pack your wellies away.

12. Hacks in the sunshine

The best head space a girl or guy can get.

13. A tidier yard

Less wind to blow leaves, hay and shavings everywhere and less water to flood.

14. Foals

Watching baby horses play in the fields never gets old.

15. T-shirts

As with the wellies, you can pack your winter coat away for a while (but we recommend leaving it within easy reach as you never know with our great British weather…)

16. Summer event coverage

Take our a subscription to H&H to keep up to date with all the action from around the country. Check out the latest offers

You may also be interested in:

9 reasons we can’t wait for spring

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Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Horse & Hound magazine, out every Thursday, is packed with all the latest news and reports, as well as interviews, specials, nostalgia, vet and training advice. Find how you can enjoy the magazine delivered to your door every week, plus options to upgrade your subscription to access our online service that brings you breaking news and reports as well as other benefits. 

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

Some horses are more sensitive than others, and the best nose nets for horses can help those who are sensitive to flies, pollen, the sun and wind. Nose nets are also a useful bit of kit if your horse is prone to headshaking, as they can help to reduce the behaviour in some cases.

Nose nets are mostly worn while riding, although they can also be attached to a headcollar for use in the field. Most nose nets are designed to fit on bridles with traditional cavesson nosebands, but there are some that are designed to fit on anatomical bridles and bridles with grackle nosebands, too.

Can nose nets be worn in competition?

Nose nets are allowed under British Dressage, British Eventing and British Showjumping rules, but not if you’re competing under FEI rules. Some governing bodies require them to be a discreet colour – matching your horse – and only cover the nose, so it’s best to double check your rulebook beforehand.

Best nose nets for horses

LeMieux Comfort Shield Nose Filter

Colours: Black or brown | Sizes: S–L | RRP: £19.95 |

This nose net is made of a fine mesh that effectively filters dust, pollen and other air born particles. It has undergone some design improvements and now has a more secure touch-tape closure on the inside. The length can be easily adjusted by fastening the touch-tape tighter and the cut-away front section means it can accommodate flash and grackle nosebands, making it the most versatile nose net in this guide.

Legal for use in BD, BE and BS competition. It is machine washable, but LeMieux recommend hand-washing where possible.

In the UK? View now at amazon.co.uk

In the US? View now at amazon.com

Equilibrium Net Relief Muzzle Net

Colours: Black, brown or white | Sizes: S, M/L or XL | RRP: £29.99 for a pack of three |

Unlike some nets that cover the whole muzzle, this contoured design covers only the top half of the muzzle meaning it’s unobtrusive and allows saliva to escape from the mouth freely.

This net is designed to have a rough, but comfortable, thin mesh, which theoretically provides relief by gently “scratching” the horse’s nose. It needs to sit close to your horse’s muzzle and, therefore, the mesh is designed to be able to cut to length if necessary.

If you’re looking for a white nose net for a grey horse, Equilibrium is your best option.

In the UK? View now at amazon.co.uk, equilibriumproducts.com, viovet.co.uk, gsequestrian.co.uk or naylors.com

In the US? View now at amazon.com

Equilibrium Net Relief Muzzle Net for Micklem bridles

Colours: Black | Sizes: Cob/horse | RRP: £34.99 for a pack of three |

This nose net has all the same features as the standard Equilibrium net, but is designed specifically for the Micklem and other anatomical bridles.

Unlike some nets that cover the whole muzzle, this contoured design covers only the top half of the muzzle meaning it’s unobtrusive and allows saliva to escape from the mouth freely.

This net is designed to have a rough, but comfortable, thin mesh, which theoretically provides relief by gently “scratching” the horse’s nose. It needs to sit close to your horse’s muzzle and, therefore, the mesh is designed to be able to cut to length if necessary.

In the UK? View now at equilibriumproducts.com, viovet.co.uk or gsequestrian.co.uk

In the US? View now at amazon.com

Equilibrium Net Relief Muzzle Net for grackle bridles

Colours: Black | Sizes: Cob/horse | RRP: £34.99 for a pack of three |

This nose net has all the same features as the standard Equilibrium net, but is designed specifically for bridles with grackle nosebands.

Unlike some nets that cover the whole muzzle, this contoured design covers only the top half of the muzzle meaning it’s unobtrusive and allows saliva to escape from the mouth freely.

This net is designed to have a rough, but comfortable, thin mesh, which theoretically provides relief by gently “scratching” the horse’s nose. It needs to sit close to your horse’s muzzle and, therefore, the mesh is designed to be able to cut to length if necessary.

In the UK? View now at equilibriumproducts.com, viovet.co.uk or gsequestrian.co.uk

In the US? View now at amazon.com

Hy Nose Shield

Colours: Black | Sizes: Pony, cob/full or extra-full | RRP: £10.99 |

This nose net is shaped to cover the muzzle, and fastens with ties at each end.

In the UK? View now at amazon.co.uk, viovet.co.uk or gsequestrian.co.uk

Busse Fly Protector Nose Net

Colours: Black | Sizes: Pony or cob/full | RRP: £12 |

This nose net fastens to the bridle or headcollar with Velcro, protecting your horse from annoying insects and UV rays. It is machine washable.

In the UK? View now at ebay.co.uk

HKM Nose Nets

Colours: Black | Sizes: One size | RRP: £14.95 for a pack of three |

These nets are available in one size only, but are easy to fit to your horse by simply folding them up until they fit the muzzle. The set includes three black nets and one reusable velcro strap. Machine washable.

In the UK? View now at gsequestrian.co.uk or ebay.co.uk

You might also like:

Find the perfect fly mask to keep your horse comfortable all summer long

10 of the best fly sprays we’ve put to the test and found to really work

Headshaking in horses: what you need to know about this distressing condition

Summer allergies in horses and how to combat them

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Horse & Hound magazine, out every Thursday, is packed with all the latest news and reports, as well as interviews, specials, nostalgia, vet and training advice. Find how you can enjoy the magazine delivered to your door every week, plus options to upgrade your subscription to access our online service that brings you breaking news and reports as well as other benefits.

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

Everyone loves an ice lorry when it’s as hot as this – and none more so than the residents of The Donkey Sanctuary.

Staff at the charity’s bases have been creating the lollies from a variety of ingredients to make them smell interesting and appealing. These include grated carrot, apple and hazel leaves in water, flavoured tea and cordial.

“Not only do the frozen treats help cool the donkeys down, they also provide a valuable form of enrichment,” a charity spokesman said. “Donkeys are naturally curious and love exploring, and this activity allows them to exhibit their natural foraging behaviours – a key factor in improving donkey welfare.”

The spokesman added that it is vital also to provide the donkeys with clean water and shelter at all times.

“As the hot weather continues, donkeys as well as humans need to keep cool,” The Donkey Sanctuary’s Manchester centre manager Robina Melling told H&H. “Providing enrichment for our donkeys can also improve their mental wellbeing.”

Lisa Cooke, supervisor of the charity’s Woods Farm, added that the team likes to “go above and beyond for our donkeys during the hot weather to try to make them more comfortable”.

“Our dedicated staff make up the frozen treats with varied ingredients to encourage the donkeys to try out different flavours,” she said. “The ‘lollies’ are placed in shaded areas around the yards and fields, which encourages the donkeys’ natural behaviour while also keeping them cool.”

You might also be interested in:

Leaving water on a horse will not make it hotter: expert busts the scraping myth

Tan lines and terrifying hat hair – 7 problems horsey folk face during the summer

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When lying by a pool is not on the agenda, H&H finds out how to get through a hot spell with your horse this summer

Many horse owners are understandably concerned about how to keep their horses happy and healthy when the mercury spikes. So if you’re looking for some advice on how to care for your horses in such un-British temperatures as those currently forecast for this weekend, we have spoken to the experts to garner their heatwave advice for horses…

How to survive a heatwave with horses

1. Prevention is better than cure

The ideal is not to allow horses to get too hot. And if they do, to cool them effectively. Following Barcelona, the International Olympic Committee and FEI funded a research project into the effects of heat and humidity on horses. Dr David Marlin, who led the project, says: “Horses were finishing cross-country at Barcelona with temperatures off the range on the thermometers, over 41°C. It was a wake-up call ahead of Atlanta 1996 — the key was to learn what would be reasonable to ask of the horses given the conditions.”

The team developed an on-site assessment of the thermal load on horses — the Wet Bulb Globe Temperature (WBGT) index. This takes into account air temperature, humidity, sunlight and wind, to give a certain number. If conditions produce a figure above 28, horses are adversely affected, leading to falls and fatigue, and therefore the effort on the course must be reduced (by shortening the course, or removing jumps). If the WBGT exceeds 33, conditions are considered incompatible with safe competition.

2. Don’t ignore horses that are turned out during a heatwave

It’s not just elite competition horses at risk during a heatwave; even horses out in the field can suffer.

A spokesman for the British Horse Society highlights the need for shade, water and suncream. “Horses are affected by the sun in the same way as humans — like pale-skinned and fair-headed humans, horses with pale skin and grey or white fur are most susceptible to burning,” she says. “If your horse has pink — rather than brown — skin, they are particularly at risk. Muzzles are very sensitive, so apply a high-factor suncream liberally and regularly around that area.”

H&H vet Karen Coumbe urges owners to take action if a horse is looking uncomfortable out in the field, even at rest, during a heatwave.

“Take his temperature,” she says, singling out “black, hairy, overweight cobs” as the most susceptible. “Horses out in a field, provided they have some shade, are unlikely to develop heatstroke, but if they are exercising hard, then hot, humid conditions can be challenging. If his temperature is over 39°C, he’d benefit from some cooling; more than 40°C and he’s at risk of heatstroke. More than 42°C can be fatal.”

3. Know the signs of overheating

“A seriously overheated horse may not be sweating,” Karen cautions. “He could be so dehydrated he doesn’t have the resources to sweat. Horses with heatstroke can be agitated, wobbly, depressed and show signs of colic. The breathing may be inconsistent or rasping, the mucous membranes congested and he may have a weak pulse. If you see any of these signs, take his temperature, start rapid cooling and consult your vet.”

4. Have lots of cold water at the ready for a horses in a heatwave

“Aggressive cooling” should be used, where cold water – between 4-10°C – is continuously poured all over the horse without scraping off the excess water. As the water evaporates from the horse’s skin, it will cool the horse down further.

Karen has a few practical suggestions. “I’ve seen riders with little watering cans dribbling water down the horse’s neck — this is nowhere near enough water,” she says. “You need large buckets of water, ideally with ice packs to help cool the water further. Then use big plastic jugs to transfer the water to the horse, so you don’t waste the cold water by chucking it all over the place.

“Don’t apply ice packs directly on the skin, as it can cause thermal damage. Keep it simple — you need to cool the bulk of the horse quickly. And move the horse to a shady area with a breeze. Misting fans are a marvellous luxury, if available.”

5. Keep horses moving while cooling

David advocates keeping the horse moving, as this increases the blood pressure (reducing the risk of collapse), and cooling the horse as fast as possible all over the body, because it’s the skin’s cooler blood that will go through the heart and into the muscles.

6. Heatwave advice for horses: clever tips and tricks

Irish eventing groom Philip Smyth Mua had his own little trick to keep horses comfortable after the 2019 young rider Europeans, where it was 28°C. “I put a sponge in the freezer, and then popped it under the headcollar while I was walking horses off after cross-country.”

7. Know the rules about hosepipe bans

While there are no current hosepipe bans in place, however should a ban be introduced, you will need to know the rules.

• For unlimited access to advice on how best to care for your horse, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

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Dehydration in horses will not only affect a horse’s performance — it can also be life-threatening. Long hot dry spells are being seen increasingly often in the UK, so when they do occur, owners need to take extra precautions to keep their horses fit and well.

How to prevent dehydration in horses

Have fresh, clean water available at all times. Do not restrict your horse’s access to water at competitions. If your horse does not like the taste of water when you travel, take some from home or flavour it with something like mint, apple juice or one of the special products designed to help horses drink that are now on the market.

For a horse who doesn’t drink well, a switch to haylage can be advisable because of its higher moisture content. This provides the horse with water and may reduce the risk of colic. Soaked hay is a cheaper alternative.

After exercise on a hot day, reduce sweat losses by cooling your horse off thoroughly as soon as possible after exercise. Once the horse stops sweating, it will become less dehydrated.

At summer competitions, try to keep your horse in the shade wherever possible. Your horse will be losing water without you necessarily being able to see it.

Electrolytes should be used to help replace the essential salts in the body that are lost through sweat.

Measuring dehydration in horses

The gold standard test is to take a blood sample as this will reveal the level of proteins in the plasma and the proportion of red blood cells in the blood compared with the plasma.

However, there are other, more practical, indicators of dehydration that you can keep an eye out for:

• A horse that produces dark urine or who has not passed urine for some time
• The appearance of the mucous membranes — if they are congested and are red in appearance, the horse is dehydrated

For a long time the skin pinch test was used to test hydration levels. The skin, typically over the neck, is pinched up and the time it takes to return to normal is counted in seconds. However, several recent studies have shown that this is not a particularly good indicator of dehydration, so it should not be relied upon.

Why do horses become dehydrated?

The horse is highly adapted to lose heat through sweat, and does so more efficiently than any other animal. In the performance horse, heat is dissipated through not only sweat, but also by increased respiration rate. Both cause the horse to lose water.

Equine sweat is hypertonic — it contains more salts than body fluid — which means that a sweating horse loses more electrolytes than water. Typically, a working horse will lose 7-8 litres in an exercise bout, although the maximum sweat rate measured for horses is 15 litres per hour. The rate does vary depending on temperature, sunshine, level of fitness and work.

Offering water alone to a dehydrated horse does not rehydrate it. Instead, the water dilutes the body fluids surrounding the tissues, which in turn “turns off” the thirst mechanism. The best rehydration therapies include the use of electrolyte preparations, either in feed or water, to stimulate drinking.

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Horse & Hound magazine, out every Thursday, is packed with all the latest news and reports, as well as interviews, specials, nostalgia, vet and training advice. Find how you can enjoy the magazine delivered to your door every week, plus options to upgrade your subscription to access our online service that brings you breaking news and reports as well as other benefits.

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

The grass is growing, the weather has been getting warmer (although as I publish this on the last day of March, I’m watching snow fall outside…) and the competition season is lurching into full swing even though it feels like we have only just escaped the dark nights and muddy fields of winter.

Here are four tasks to do this month to prepare for the summer season.

Spruce up your paddocks

Particularly if your field has been in use over winter, it more than likely needs a bit of attention to ensure you get the most from your grazing over the summer months.

Jonathon Cox, managing director of Suregrow Fertilizer Ltd, says: “It’s time to harrow. Harrowing basically combs the paddock, helping to level hoof divots and mole hills as well as pulling out dead grass and aerating the ground to increase new growth.

“It is best to start weed control early, spray and chop them. Follow this up with a suitable fertiliser to thicken the sward of grass and help stop the weeds coming back.”

Dig out the weigh-tape

Equines naturally lose weight over winter, before regaining it come the spring, but modern-day care regimes often mean horses maintain their weight all year-round, so it’s important to check your horse’s weight before the spring grass really takes hold. Weight can be monitored using weigh tapes, weigh bridges or body condition scoring.

Emmeline Hannelly, welfare education manager at the British Horse Society explains: “Overweight and obese horses are worryingly becoming the norm. Horses carrying too much fat are at an increased risk of detrimental health issues such as equine metabolic syndrome and laminitis.

“Both conditions can be difficult to manage so prevention is key to help safeguard your horse’s welfare. Monitoring your horse’s weight and getting hands-on to fat score at least every two weeks can help identify any weight increase and ensure appropriate action is promptly taken to review the horse’s diet, management and exercise. When we see our horse’s daily, subtle changes can often be missed so taking photos regularly can be a big help”.

Formulate a fitness plan — then stick to it

It’s sometimes hard to find the time, or daylight hours, to ride as much as we’d like to over winter, but now’s the time to get your horses fit so you can make the most of the summer.

Create a fitness plan to gradually build up your and your horse’s fitness levels, keeping in mind your goals for the summer. Find out how to formulate a fitness plan here.

Join a riding club

A riding club can be a great source of horsey friends, clinics, shows and motivation. Emily Clemett, who is a member of Solihull Riding Club, explained: “Spring is a great time to join a club as the outdoor competition season is just beginning and there’s lots going on to prepare. There’s lots of training and teams to be a part of at various levels in a variety of disciplines so there’s something for everyone.

“So far I’ve competed for the show-jumping and combined training teams, next up is eventing! It’s been a great way to meet new people and I’ve had fantastic training through the club which has improved my riding massively. There are lots of championships so clubs give you something to aim for, I’d really recommend joining your local club to kick start the season!”\\

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Horse & Hound magazine, out every Thursday, is packed with all the latest news and reports, as well as interviews, specials, nostalgia, vet and training advice. Find how you can enjoy the magazine delivered to your door every week, plus options to upgrade your subscription to access our online service that brings you breaking news and reports as well as other benefits.

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

Coughing, sneezing or a cluster of skin bumps could indicate a summer allergy, as Richard Hepburn FRCVS explains

THE summer months bring increased levels of specific allergens (a molecule capable of eliciting an allergic response), namely pollens, fungi and insects.

Pollen released from grasses and trees peaks from 5am to 10am. As intact pollen is too large to enter the small airways of the lung, it is deposited on the horse’s skin and in the upper respiratory tract, mouth and eyes. Rain and moist conditions can cause pollen to shatter, liberating much smaller particles that can enter the lung.

Fungi exist in a symbiotic relationship with many grasses, and within hay are already implicated in stable-associated asthma. These fungi are also present on different parts of the growing grass plant, and the release of their spores increases with humidity – leading to peak airborne fungal spore levels in the early morning. Levels also rise during warm and windy weather.

Fungal spores can travel a great distance; in summer, your horse is not only exposed to local fungi, as he is in winter in the stable, but to those from a wider area.

Consistently warm weather creates an increase in flying insects. As they feed on your horse, they produce chemicals in their saliva which act as allergens.

Insects vary in their chosen feeding location on the horse and preferred feeding time. Culicoides midges breed near standing water, but will travel up to half a mile to feed, following a carbon dioxide trail from exhaled breath. Most active at dawn and dusk, they are poor fliers and struggle with windy conditions, congregating near hedgerows and woodland. Different midge species feed on different parts of the horse; the more species present, the more widespread the lesions.

However, horseflies feed during the daytime on the flanks, sides of the chest and upper legs, tolerate windy conditions and breed on vegetation near water.

Understanding the allergic response

TO be allergic to something, a horse first has to become sensitised. When he is bitten by an insect or inhales pollen, a cellular response triggers the production of immunoglobulin E (IgE). This prompts the release of histamine, a chemical that increases blood flow and blood vessel permeability.

Accumulation of fluid follows, seen as skin wheals or airway oedema (swelling), leading to wheezing and the stimulation of nerve endings to cause itching, sneezing, coughing and narrowing of the airways – occurring within 15 minutes of allergen exposure.

Activation of a second inflammatory cell in the bloodstream, the basophil, leads to distant site allergic reactions. Mast cell stimulation also causes a later phase, typically four to six hours after exposure, which can last for days or weeks and is characterised by the deposition of fibrin (scar material) and remodelling of affected tissues.

Re-exposure to allergens causes the immune system to remodel, leading to a more aggressive and rapid memory response.

The most common problems

The main summer-associated allergic conditions are:

Equine pasture asthma (EPA)

Summer EPA worsens with increased turnout, especially during hot months. Signs of coughing during exercise, a high breathing rate during and after exercise, and poor performance typically begin in July, persisting until October. Many horses also show signs of breathing difficulty at rest, essentially having an asthma attack.

Mature horses are more at risk, reflecting prolonged recurrent allergen exposure. The specific cause of EPA has not been identified, but is likely to be high levels of pollens and mould spores, especially after crop harvesting.

Allergic rhinitis

Anecdotally, many owners report watery nasal discharge, sneezing and nose rubbing in their horses when the pollen count is high. Some horses also show signs of allergic conjunctivitis, with swollen eyes.

Insect bite hypersensitivity (IBH)

This is a hypersensitivity reaction to Culicoides midge species (termed sweet itch) and to other biting insects such as gnats, mosquitoes, stable and horseflies. Allergic reaction can be immediate (type one), causing urticarial wheals or hives, or delayed (type four), where itching and crusting develop a day or two after the bite. Often, horses exhibit both types of reaction.

What causes headshaking?

AN imbalance between types of T-lymphocytes (a component of the immune system) is found in allergic humans and dogs, due to genetic or environmental factors such as breed or diet, and leads to a magnified response to allergen contact. Defects in epithelial barriers (such as the nostril lining) may also contribute to human allergy, with reduced resistance found in those with chronic hay fever. Genetic variation in enzymes responsible for moderating the allergic response in the skin or respiratory tract has also been identified.

A certain cytokine (a small protein implicated in the body’s infection response) has been found in increased levels in the airways of horses with equine asthma. Similar mechanisms may mediate equine allergic disease, but it is not clear whether these changes are responsible for a horse being more likely to become allergic or have developed subsequent to him becoming allergic due to chronic low-level environmental exposure.

A recent study in the US showed that obese horses were more likely to have summer EPA. A more severe type of human asthma has emerged associated with obesity, with a poorer response to treatment. While human obesity is believed to promote a state of increased inflammation, the magnitude of its relevance to increasing the risk of allergic disease is unclear.

Management plan

DIAGNOSIS is usually based upon clinical signs, but if IBH skin lesions are unusual, a biopsy may exclude other diagnoses.

There are no definitive tests for sweet itch allergy. Blood sampling for IgE measurement or intradermal skin testing are insensitive, as it is unlikely that the test allergen will be specific to the midge species affecting an individual horse – although more detailed testing shows potential.

Intradermal skin testing can be more useful when IBH is part of a wider skin allergy problem. In EPA, airway endoscopy and sampling of airway fluid for cytology can be used to define the severity of disease and the likely duration of treatment.

Treating allergic disease depends on the severity of the clinical signs. If your horse has an allergic event, call your vet straight away. Human antihistamines are not particularly effective in horses, as their absorption from the gut is variable – meaning that a large number of tablets is needed and benefits are slow to materialise.

The mainstay of treatment is corticosteroid anti-inflammatories, given orally or by injection, on skin or inhaled into the respiratory tract. With EPA, bronchodilator drugs to relax the airways may be needed.

If your horse appears to have a summer allergic skin reaction, move him inside and hose him with cold water to help remove allergens and reduce development of skin swelling. Using colloidal oatmeal shampoo can reduce itching while you wait for the vet.

IBH-specific treatments, including allergen-specific immunotherapy and dietary manipulation using vitamin B3 and omega-3 fatty acids, have shown variable results. However, an Australian study showed that a plant extract emulsion spray significantly reduced clinical signs. Your vet can advise you about IBH management methods, such as sweet itch rugs and the fly repellent permethrin.

Management of horses with EPA is challenging, as it is difficult to remove the horse from the allergen source. An individual approach is required, based on an appropriate treatment plan, monitoring of airway health and corticosteroid treatment.

.This Vet Clinic feature is also available to read in Horse & Hound magazine, on sale date Thursday 1 July 2021

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Rachel Fraser speaks to Kirsten Holland, BVetMed(hons), MRCVS, of Paragon Veterinary Group and independent equine nutritionist, Clare MacLeod MSc RNutr, to find out more about whether horses need to be fed hay during the summer months.

Do horses out at grass need hay provided over the summer?

Kirsten explains: “This depends on the quality of the pasture, weather conditions through the summer and the condition of the horse in question.

“If the pasture is poor quality, the horses on the pasture don’t appear to be thriving, include a mare supporting a foal, non-native breeds, equines in hard work, or the weather conditions are particularly poor, then there may be a need for hay supplementation through the summer.

“In almost all cases, native pony breeds turned out 24/7 will not need hay supplementation during summer months.”

Clare agrees: “If a horse has free access to grass, they usually won’t need forage such as hay to be provided.”

What are the signs to look out for that indicate you should be feeding hay?

“Signs that hay supplementation may be necessary include horses on the pasture losing weight beyond an acceptable body condition score,” says Kirsten.

“In some cases, if horses are out 24/7, the pasture is poor and very bad weather is forecast, supplementing an amount of hay can help keep horses warm in these conditions.”

For horses stabled part of the time and turned out part of the time, how can owners decide how much hay to feed?

“This should be decided by how the horse is maintaining their weight. If they are overweight then only a small amount of hay should be fed, haynets can be doubled up so it takes a longer time for the horse to eat the hay and hay can also be soaked to reduce the sugar content,” explains Kirsten.

“Ideally, hay should have a sugar content of 11% or less, and if a horse is overweight it should be fed no more than 1.5% of its bodyweight in hay weight per day if the horse’s sole dietary intake is hay.

“This calculation does not take into account how much grass is being consumed. Obviously if the horse is turned out on grass at some point during the day, then most of this hay ration can be removed from the diet.

“Horses can consume their daily requirement of grass in a matter of hours. The pasture condition and horse’s body condition score should be considered and horses should be fed in a manner to maintain their body condition at an ideal score – 3 out of 5.

“The condition of the pasture will change through the summer depending on weather conditions, so hay rations should be changed alongside this. If pasture is thriving then the hay ration should be cut down.”

Clare adds: “If stabled for more than four hours, they will need some forage provided, even if they are overweight, in order to avoid stomach problems. Use the ‘four hour fast’ rule as a guide.

“Feeding hay can also help horses who suffer from digestive disturbance on too much or rich grass. These horses can be better off with restricted grass and being fed hay instead.”

If grass is grazed down short, do they need hay? Or are they getting enough by eating the fresh shoots of grass as they are coming up?

“Grass grazed short doesn’t necessarily mean that a horse needs hay supplemented. A paddock can look very short but in summer weather, the grass will still grow and be eaten off as it grows up,” says Kirsten.

“This means that the newest shoots of grass, which are the most nutritious, are constantly being eaten. In good weather, horses can obtain all of the nutrients they need from a very bare looking paddock.

“Breed and workload should also be taken into account when deciding on whether to feed hay or not.”

Continued below…

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However, just eating grass sprouts can be problematic for some horses, Clare explains: “If you are using a very well eaten down pasture to limit grass intake, feeding some hay is recommended so that the horse’s diet isn’t entirely rich grass sprouts which are low in fibre.

“Similarly, if you’re restricting grass to help a horse lose or maintain weight and their grass intake is below a healthy amount, some hay should be fed. The main sign to look out for is a very hungry horse. Soak hay to reduce its digestible energy content if they aren’t losing weight.”

For all the latest equestrian news and reports, don’t miss Horse & Hound magazine, out every Thursday

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

You bring your horse in from a relaxing day in the field and whilst brushing him over you find a tick buried in his coat…

Jessica May, lead vet at the video vet service FirstVet, provides her advice on what you should do and how you can keep your horse tick free this summer.

What problems can ticks cause for my horse?

“When a tick latches onto your horse, the skin where the tick has attached itself can become irritated or infected,” explains Jessica. “This occurs in around 80% of cases. In extreme cases, a large number of ticks can even cause anaemia in horses, or compromise the immune system, but this is very rare.

“However, ticks can transmit a variety of potentially dangerous diseases, including: Lyme Disease, Babesiosis, Anaplasmosis, Bartonellosis, Q-fever and Louping ill virus. If a tick is carrying one of these diseases, then it can be transmitted to your horse from the tick’s saliva as it feeds.”

How can I prevent ticks from attaching to my horse?

“Tick prevention requires diligence,” adds Jessica. “Check your horse twice daily for ticks and, if found, remove them promptly. Application of tick-specific repellents is also recommended. These should be applied to your horse’s mane, tail, head, chest, and along underneath the abdomen, before riding or turning your horse out in the paddock.

“Once your horse returns to the stable, ensure that you check him thoroughly. Ticks are easier to feel than to see, so run your hands gently through their mane, tail, and across their body, feeling for small bumps along the way, being careful not to damage or dislodge a tick by accident.”

What should I do if I find ticks attached to my horse?

“Always be careful when removing ticks. Do not apply chemicals or vaseline to the tick, or attempt to freeze or burn it off. This may stimulate it to regurgitate it’s saliva and stomach contents, increasing the chances of it passing on any diseases that it is carrying.

“The best option is to wear latex gloves and use a tick fork. A tick attaches itself by screwing barbed mouthparts into the skin. Therefore, it is very important that the tick is removed using an un-screwing technique. Fine point tweezers can also be used, but make sure you grasp the tick’s head, and not its body, as doing so may cause it to regurgitate.

“Once a tick is removed, the affected area should be cleaned with an antiseptic solution or salt water. Detached ticks should be killed by placing them in a jar of alcohol. Alternatively, they can be sent in a crush-proof container to Public Health England to help identify diseases carried by ticks that can be passed on to animals or humans.”

Continued below…

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What is Lyme disease and what are the main signs?

“Lyme Disease is a tick-borne infection which can affect many body systems. Most horses infected with Lyme Disease do not show obvious clinical signs, but there are some things that you can look out for:

• Sore joints
• Lethargy
• Low-grade fever
• Hypersensitivity and muscle tenderness
• Neurological dysfunction
• Inflammation of the eyes

“If you notice any of these symptoms, contact your vet as soon as possible. Treatment for Lyme Disease is usually an intensive and prolonged course of antibiotics. However, effective prevention is the best way to ensure a tick-free summer and a happy, healthy horse.”

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Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

Summer pasture is home to all manner of biting pests and parasites, as Karen Coumbe MRCVS explains...

Being outdoors at this time of year can mean battling an army of bugs and bacteria, seemingly intent on targeting the hacking or grazing horse.

Whether lurking in the long grass or flying above it, these pasture-borne pests can be more than just a nuisance – causing anything from mild discomfort to more serious ill health and even spreading disease. It pays to know the enemy and take preventative measures where possible.

The British summer produces the perfect conditions for flies, which generally benefit from a mild, wet winter, flourish around damp, woodland areas and fly in warm weather. They tend to breed in muddy, wet and unhygienic conditions, such as marshes, ditches and unkempt muck heaps.

Midges will only fly if the wind is less than four miles per hour, so a breezy hack, or a hilltop or coastal paddock would be perfect for the pony with sweet itch – a condition caused by an allergic reaction to midge bites. Other flies, including black, stable and horseflies, are also incriminated in allergic skin reactions.

In hotter, drier conditions, insects such as bees, wasps and hornets can irritate. There are stories every year of horses who have injured themselves in panic after an insect attack. Little can be done to prevent this, beyond good fencing to minimise injury risk and the sensible use of decent fly repellents, bug rugs and fly masks.

Hey, sucker

Reports suggest tick numbers may be increasing, possibly as a side effect of global warming. With climate change affecting the habitat, range and active period of tick species in the UK, along with greater international movement of domestic animals, including horses, there is increasing concern about tick-borne disease.

Ticks live in thick vegetation and attach to mammals, such as livestock, horses and dogs. They prefer areas with dense ground cover and shade, so heathland, bracken, tall grass and woodland all provide a suitable habitat. Since they avoid direct sunlight and low humidity, they thrive in springtime and a mild summer.

There are many species of tick in the UK, but Ixodes are the most numerous. Infection is more common in certain areas such as East Anglia, along the south coast and near the New Forest, so local knowledge is important. The presence of large numbers of potential hosts, particularly deer and sheep, will increase the number of ticks in an area.

Only the adult female tick sucks blood, and after a meal can measure more than 1cm in size – bigger than a coffee bean. Before feeding, ticks are smaller and harder to spot. They typically attach themselves to horses’ lower legs, heads (particularly the ears and nostrils) and areas of soft skin, including the inner thighs and under the elbows.

While infection is not thought to occur until ticks have been attached for 12 to 24 hours, they should be removed as soon as they are found. This can be difficult, however, because of their barbed mouthparts, so consult your vet rather than using a hot match, nail polish or some other home remedy. Although these methods might induce a tick to detach, they can stimulate further nasty secretions into the bite wound.

Avoid handling ticks with your bare hands, too. Any ticks found can be sent to Public Health England’s tick surveillance scheme for identification – again, ask your vet. Ticks can transmit serious disease, including Lyme disease, anaplasmosis and Louping ill in the UK, and piroplasmosis globally. Severe tick infestations can also cause skin irritations and even anaemia.

There is debate among vets and recent published research as to whether Lyme disease is overdiagnosed in horses. While blood tests reveal that many horses have been infected, very few show genuine signs of illness. So if a horse is tested and is positive with Lyme antibodies, this does not indicate that he actually has the disease – rather that he has been exposed to the infection at some stage.

Lyme disease can mimic many other illnesses and is difficult to confirm categorically, although more specific lab tests are now available. Clinical signs are vague and can include sore eyes, skin lumps, weight loss and occasionally neurological issues. The disease may be a cause of swollen joints, shifting lameness and lethargy, but there are many other explanations for such signs.

Certainly, a history of exposure to ticks increases the likelihood that Lyme disease may be present. An affected horse can be treated relatively easily with certain antibiotics but, unless the diagnosis is definitive, this may be neither beneficial nor appropriate.

Tick control includes use of insecticide repellents containing permethrin or cypermethrin, to discourage attacks and to protect the horse by irritating the tick and causing it to drop off before attachment. Products based on natural ingredients, such as botanical oils, may offer some protection for short periods.

Cutting back undergrowth and clipping or mowing pastures will make areas inhospitable for ticks and less attractive to deer and other mammals that may be carrying them.

Unseen dangers

The bacterial spores that can cause tetanus infection may be present in any soil or manure. Wherever horses graze, they have a high risk of contracting tetanus, especially if turned out in a field with additional hazards such as barbed wire. Every horse, young or old, retired or in full work, should be fully vaccinated against this frequently fatal disease.

Parasitic worms are another risk factor, but one that can be managed. An important step is to reduce the number of horses in any one paddock. Regular removal of droppings, while never a popular job, is nevertheless effective in reducing contamination of pasture by worm eggs and is far more effective than harrowing, which merely spreads the droppings around.

All the recent studies show that regular faecal worm egg counts are important in monitoring an individual horse’s worm burden. This provides a guide as to if or when treatment is needed, with the aim of minimising wormer use and reducing resistance to these important medicines.

Equine grass sickness (EGS) is a devastating condition that only affects horses with access to grass. Vets tend to see more cases at this time of year, especially among young horses and those turned out on new grazing.

The exact cause remains unknown, despite extensive research, although the condition is thought to be linked to a particular type of Clostridium bacteria picked up from the soil as horses graze. Reports suggest that risk increases with earthworks, such as holes dug for fence posts or even fresh molehills.

The disease is prevalent in certain areas, so local knowledge is useful before turning your horse out somewhere new. Supplementary feeding, with haylage on a daily basis and gradual turnout, may help, but there are no guaranteed preventative measures. Ask your vet, who will know about regional variations in EGS and other risks such as sycamore toxicity.

I have seen horses with nasty complications as a result of all sorts of incidents, from adder bites to Chinese lantern trauma. Yet despite the sometimes unusual and unpredictable hazards out there, the benefits of fresh air and exercise are many.

While there is evidence that horses come to more harm turned out in a field than they do out competing, this may be because there are more out grazing to be injured. All we can do is minimise risks – hacking with care, turning out horses in as safe an environment as possible and dealing swiftly and sensibly with any problems that occur.

Ref Horse & Hound; 28 May 2020

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Summer is finally here (for the moment) and with it comes the light, warmth and much more besides. This is what we’ve all been waiting for...

1. The light

It’s simple, but light is something we all crave during those dark winter months when fitting in your horses in just a matter of hours while it is light is pretty much impossible.

2. Less mucking out

You can now chuck your horses out in the field 24/7, guilt-free, knowing that they are unlikely to get either cold or wet. And of course this means no mucking out (*cheers*). Ok, so it means you now have to traipse around your horse’s field poo-picking more than you would like to. But remember that you are saving a small fortune on bedding too. Every cloud…

3. Farewell to cold hands

Goodbye woolly gloves — your hands are al-fresco and it feels great. Dexterity is restored now that you don’t have to try and complete horsey tasks with thick gloves which if removed will inevitably mean your fingers fall off with frostbite.

4. Tan (lines)

Riding and completing horsey chores are now your prime opportunity to top up your tan. Sadly your riding hat and t-shirts mean that your forehead will remain white and your upper-half will rival that of the local farmer, but it still counts. And for goodness sake, riding in shorts will never be ok. Not only do you look ridiculous, but the ensuing pain will always be too much to bear.

5. Fewer rugs

Now that your horse no longer requires 10 zillion rugs to keep him warm, you can wave goodbye to the daily grind of removing and replacing them. At most you will have to contest with a fly sheet and as a result you can welcome back about 15 minutes of your day that you had lost during the winter months.

6. Au revoir mud

You can put your wellies into storage for a few weeks. Mud is no more and hallelujah. You will no longer need to adopt your very own long-jump technique in the gateways of fields and you can wave goodbye to the fun daily competition of thawing out the hose in order to wash off muddy hooves.

Continued below…

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7. Gleaming coats

After months of clipping and moulting you can finally stand back and admire the sheer beauty of your horse’s shiny coat. Marvellous.

8. So long snow/frost/ice

Any one of these elements can cause a number of conundrums. Whether it’s clearing snow for hours just to create a path to get your horse out of its stable (only for it to snow again 10 minutes later), being unable to hack due to frosty roads or the daily argument with the frozen tap. You can now paise the weather gods and forget about these problems for a while.

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Official description: Aniwell FitaBac

Aniwell FiltaBac is a thick, soothing cream with antibacterial qualities. It has SPF 30+ so can be used as a sun cream for horses and sun cream for dogs.

First impressions

It was a really big pot of cream with both sun block and antibacterial properties — amazing!

Overview of performance

This was superb — by far the most amazing all-purpose cream I’ve used. It didn’t rub off and was very easy to apply. The horses didn’t object to application and it soothed agitated and irritated skin.

Harriet’s likes and dislikes

I really liked the dual purpose of the Aniwell FiltaBac — it offered excellent protection from UV rays, soothed sore skin, kept the flies at bay and created a barrier. There isn’t anything I’d change about it. For me, this is the best in the market for sun protection and for soothing and protecting sensitive and agitated skin. I found it great for sensitive types and anything with known allergies. It helped with one horse who had bites and grazes, as it kept the flies away and acted as a barrier.

It is slightly more expensive than the others but, as it was a much larger pot and multi-purpose, it really was a fabulous product to use. Worth every penny.

Verdict

H&H Approved – A stand-out winner for me — Aniwell FiltaBac is a great multi-purpose cream!

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Official description: Lincoln Sun Bloc

Lincoln Sun Bloc is a protective, soothing sunblock for horses that is formulated to safeguard delicate skin at high risk of sunburn. It provides maximum protection using naturally occurring zinc oxide, a proven UV filter, plus two additional UV filters to reflect and absorb UVA and UVB rays. It’s also water-resistant for durability and resilience. Ingredients include aloe vera, which gently calms the skin, and lanolin, which conditions and moisturises. The cream is tinted to aid application and is designed to protect muzzles, scars and photosensitive areas.

First impressions

This cream was not particularly perfumed and had quite a thick consistency.

Overview of performance

The tint of the Lincoln Sun Bloc made it easy to apply because you can see exactly where you’ve put it. The cream provided great coverage and the horses weren’t too bothered about having it put on. A little went a long way, too, so it worked out to be quite economical.

Harriet’s likes and dislikes

I really liked how easy Lincoln Sun Bloc was to apply and that it physically blocks the UV rays and acts as a barrier. I only needed to apply it once and it lasted all day.

Verdict

H&H Approved – A great product, provides full coverage and I would 100% recommend for pink noses!

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Aniwell FiltaBac *H&H Approved*

£30.25

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Horse & Hound magazine, out every Thursday, is packed with all the latest news and reports, as well as interviews, specials, nostalgia, vet and training advice. Find how you can enjoy the magazine delivered to your door every week, plus options to upgrade your subscription to access our online service that brings you breaking news and reports as well as other benefits.

Official description: Barrier Sunburn Soother 

Barrier Sunburn Soother contains natural minerals that give SPF25+ protection, as well as concentrated plant derivatives to soothe areas already damaged by the sun. The liquid form provides quick absorption and even coverage. This sun cream contains no artificial thickeners or perfumes.

First impressions

I thought Barrier Sunburn Soother was likely to be easier to apply than the others in test with it being in liquid form. It wasn’t fragranced and had a cooling effect on my palms when applying, which I think would be nice for the horse’s skin.

Overview of performance

Barrier Sunburn Soother was very easy to apply, long lasting and absorbed quickly. It did have a slight shine when initially applied, but once soaked in you wouldn’t know the product was on. This made it slightly difficult to see where you had previously applied the cream, but it does what it sets out to do, lasts all day and soothes agitated skin.

Harriet’s likes and dislikes

I really like the liquid form as it was very quick and easy to apply. A tint to the colour would make application slightly easier, but that would be me being fairly fussy. Being so clear would, however, be great in a competition environment.

Verdict

Easy to apply and a great option if you’re competing.

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Aniwell FiltaBac *H&H Approved*

£30.25

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Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Horse & Hound magazine, out every Thursday, is packed with all the latest news and reports, as well as interviews, specials, nostalgia, vet and training advice. Find how you can enjoy the magazine delivered to your door every week, plus options to upgrade your subscription to access our online service that brings you breaking news and reports as well as other benefits.

Official description: Gold Label Sun Guard

Gold Label Sun Guard is an SPF50 sunblock and soother for horses with areas that are susceptible to the sun’s rays. It contains only natural ingredients, including shea butter, calamine and sunscreen.

First impressions

This sun cream smelt great and came in a handy-sized pot. The cream looked quite thick.

Overview of performance

Gold Label Sun Guard performed very well once on the skin, but was much easier to apply once softened and warmed by your hands first. The horses were slightly awkward about having it put on, but I don’t know whether it was the smell or the consistency of the cream. However, it did stay on all day, provided full coverage and soothed any existing sunburn.

Harriet’s likes and dislikes

I really liked how it only required one application and you could trust it to stay on all day. I did wonder whether it was the smell or consistency that put the horses off it, but then it could have been down to the way I applied it or that one did have a little bit of sunburn already, meaning he was more sensitive during the application process.

Verdict

This sun cream took more effort to apply than the others I tested, but it was great once it was on and really lasted.

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£30.25

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Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Horse & Hound magazine, out every Thursday, is packed with all the latest news and reports, as well as interviews, specials, nostalgia, vet and training advice. Find how you can enjoy the magazine delivered to your door every week, plus options to upgrade your subscription to access our online service that brings you breaking news and reports as well as other benefits.