Using horseshoe studs can improve your horse’s confidence, especially when competing on tricky going. However, making the wrong choice can have disastrous consequences due to potential for injury through twists, strains and other injuries. From understanding when to use studs, to choosing the right stud for the going, our expert guide contains all you need to know.

Why use horseshoe studs?

Obviously in order to use studs, your horse needs to be shod and for the horseshoes to be fitted with stud holes by your farrier. The most common type of shoe used on competition horses has a fuller (groove) that the nail heads sit inside and a concave inside edge, which act together to give the horse some grips without studs.

Before turning to studs, if your horse has a tendency to slip while on the roads, the most popular choice is to add tungsten nails to their shoes. This is a standard horseshoe nail with a tungsten carbide pin inserted into the head, which protrudes about 1mm and digs into the surface as the foot hits the floor.

Often referred to as ‘road nails’, they should always be used in pairs of feet, either fronts, backs or all four, to maintain the medial lateral balance of the foot and limb, and as far back as possible, to reduce shock to the hoof as it hits the ground.

In some horses this will be sufficient to provide the necessary grip to maintain their confidence, but if you are finding your horse still has a tendency to slip on certain going, then adding studs is the obvious next step.

However, studs should not be used to make up for poor riding or a lack of training in horse or rider. It’s important that riders invest sufficient time in ensuring that their horses are used to working on different surfaces to reduce the likelihood of slipping.

As showjumper Holly Smith says: “Some people spend too much time blaming their studs, rather than worrying about how they are riding.”

It’s also important to remember a little slipping of the hoof when it lands on a surface is a natural and important part of the normal function of the forelimbs in absorbing concussion. Studs prevent this from happening, leading to increased forces going up the leg so should only be used when absolutely necessary.

How many studs?

If you feel that your horse would benefit from having horseshoe studs, you need to decide whether they need them in both front and back shoes, as well as how many in each shoe and which types of studs to use.

Traditionally many riders only used studs in the outside of the shoe and there is a school of thought that believes a single stud on the outside of the hoof reduces strain on the leg’s structures when making a tight turn.

However, most farriers now recommend using a pair of studs (one in each side of the shoe) in either both rear shoes or all four shoes in order to maintain medial lateral foot balance. Studs should be of similar size across a pair of feet and slightly larger studs can be used in rear shoes compared to in front.

In all cases the smallest possible studs should be chosen. Prolonged use of big studs on firm ground can produce vertical fractures in the hoof wall directly above the studs, so this should be avoided.

Riders should avoid using pointed studs on the inside of the hoof due to the potential for strike damage to the opposite leg. For this reason it is sensible for horses with studs to wear boots for protection. A stud girth is also a wise precaution if your horse is wearing studs in their front shoes.

What’s in your stud kit?

Your stud kit should contain a variety of different shaped studs to suit your horse’s needs, a stud tap (to clean the thread in the stud hole before use), a spanner (the adjustable ones are ideal) and stud plugs plus a spare horseshoe nail.

In addition you may find it useful to invest in a magnetic metal bowl, which will keep your studs exactly where you need them, even if the bowl is knocked over, and is also useful for finding studs when dropped on the grass. There are also magnetic wristbands available that do a similar job, holding the studs for you until you need to use them.

Stud holes should always be plugged when not in use, to prevent dirt and stones clogging them up. Designed to keep the empty hole clean, ready-made plugs (or sleepers) come in shaped cotton wool, metal, rubber or plastic, although many riders make their own with a piece of cotton wool covered in petroleum jelly, which is an inexpensive and effective alternative.

It also makes sense to clean the stud holes out the day before a competition, before replugging them, rather than attempting it at the show, when the horse may be impatient to get on with the job. There are few things more panic-inducing than arriving at a show with limited time to find you have a small stone wedged in a stud hole!

The studs should be cleaned after use and carefully stored to avoid the thread deteriorating, which can render them useless, and at worst necessitate a visit from the farrier if one cross-threads and gets stuck in the hole.

Which studs to use?

Studs are typically most useful when the ground has been firm and then it has rained, causing the top surface to be slippery, but there is a wide range of studs on the market, so it’s important to always choose the appropriate stud to suit the conditions. Furthermore, take special care not to use over-large studs on ponies and smaller horses. Some of the bigger studs are designed only to be worn on the hind shoes, and on larger horses. A smaller horse will be able to grip with a smaller stud.

Supastuds studs are designed to be “self-cleaning”, meaning you don’t have to retap the hole each time. Their range covers the different types and shapes of studs to help horses cope with whatever going is underfoot.

• Road stud – a small flattish stud (8-9mm approx) with a tiny point: for grip on slippery tarmac or hard ground. These are extra durable for the rigours of roadwork.
• Conical stud – a versatile cone-shaped stud designed for a variety of conditions whenever you need more grip, for example turning and jumping. There are different sizes: small, medium and large, which denote the length, to be used according to the conditions. Small (approx 16mm), for use on good grass going, while large (approx 25mm) is designed to help the horse cope with sharp turns on greasy going. Conical studs are the most popular all-round stud
• Dome stud – an oval shape with a pointed dome top. This is a compact chunky stud (18mm) suitable for soft conditions. There is also a large or maxi dome (2cm), designed for larger horses (and hind shoes) on soft going
• Bullet stud – this is a smallish block-shaped stud (14mm), which gives extra grip in normal – good-soft – conditions and often used for polo. It’s quite chunky for hard ground. For those on larger horses needing extra grip on deep going, these are available in up to 2cm long
• Polo stud – these are a blunt cubic stud for sharp turns and braking on generally good going. They come in a variety of sizes from around 12mm down to 7mm depending on the size of pony and grip required
• Sharp stud – another small stud (15mm) but with a sharp point, designed for hard ground. These are available in slightly smaller (1cm) – in between a road stud and sharp stud
• Arena stud – a large square stud (20mm) tapering to a sharp point, designed for muddy conditions or on an artificial surface.
• Dressage studs – available in small (14mm) and medium. Despite the name, these are suitable for all disciplines, giving extra grip on firm going.

While most riders like to emulate top riders or trainers, it’s important that you take time to discover which studs are right for you and your horse. Trying studs out while you are schooling, where you can stop and make changes if necessary, is advisable rather than trying a new set-up of studs at a competition.

Expert tips for using horseshoe studs

• Use blunt (not pointed) studs on the inside branches of the shoe
• Use the smallest studs that will do the job
• If you need studs in all four shoes, use smaller studs in front than behind
• Choose studs according to conditions, horse type, movement and type of competition
• Typically the softer the ground, the larger the studs needed
• Stud up just before you compete and remove them immediately after you are finished
• Don’t load or travel horses in studs (unless the studs are nearly flat and designed to be worn during travelling)
• Avoid leading or riding horses on hard surfaces in studs
• Clean and retap stud holes the day before you are planning to use them
• Keep stud holes plugged with an appropriate material when not in use
• Practise putting studs at home before trying at a show
• Most farriers are a useful source of advice, so do ask their opinion
• Clean studs after use and to avoid rust, wrap them in a lightly oiled cloth
• Store your stud kit together so you don’t lose anything

• To stay up to date with all the breaking news from major shows throughout 2025, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

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Changes announced in the budget could affect stud, riding school and livery yard owners – as people are reminded to take appropriate financial advice.

In the Government’s autumn budget on 30 October chancellor Rachel Reeves announced reforms to agricultural property relief (APR) and business property relief (BPR).

Currently, people can claim for agricultural property relief on qualifying agricultural land and property, and business property relief on qualifying interest or shares in a business without a limit or cap.

But from 6 April 2026, the full 100% relief from inheritance tax (IHT) will be restricted to the first £1m of combined agricultural and business property. Above this amount, individuals will only be eligible for 50% relief from IHT.

Concerns from farmers have been reported nationally, and protests have taken place in London. But it has been highlighted that equine stud owners who claim agricultural property relief could also be affected.

“Upon a farmer or stud owner’s death, their beneficiaries could apply for agricultural property relief – and potentially also business property relief – and there was no limit to how big that claim might be,” Nicola Glass, an independent financial adviser at Integrity365, told H&H.

“But now the Government has put a limit on this, and when it comes to studs, when you add up the land, buildings, farmhouses and anything else that could qualify, it could easily be more than £1m in value. This means that the beneficiary will have to pay 20% IHT on anything over this.”

Generally, livery yards and riding schools trading as businesses do not qualify for agricultural property relief but some may qualify for business property relief – so such businesses could also be affected by the changes. It is important that owners take professional advice from their solicitor and tax advisor to confirm their situation.

“Should business property relief be applicable to an estate or individual, as with the agricultural property relief, this will be capped at 50% for anything over £1m,” said Ms Glass.

“There’s lots of change from the budget that people haven’t quite picked up on yet. There’s been lots of discussions about farmers, which is important, but it affects a lot of other people as well.”

Ms Glass added that the message is “not to panic”.

“There are things that can be done, and the first step would be to value all your assets and speak to an adviser about what your potential tax liability could be,” she said.

“From there you can look at IHT planning, and options can include taking out insurance against the liability or considering gifting within your lifetime.”

A British Horse Society spokesperson told H&H it encourages anyone who owns a riding centre or livery yard to think about whether they could be affected by the changes to business property relief.

“Of course, the impact will vary largely depending on your individual situation or circumstances, so we would strongly urge you to seek clear legal advice and guidance,” she said.

Example: Anne Stables runs and is the sole owner of a profit-making stud farm.

Anne has full use of her IHT bands on her death, totalling £500,000. Her will gives everything to her three children equally, and her home is not deemed a “working farmhouse”, so does not qualify for relief.

Her home is worth £400,000 and she has £100,000 savings. Her APR/BPR qualifying land and assets are worth £1.3m

Previously, the stud farm would pass tax-free; only her home and savings would potentially be subject to IHT. As these are under £500,000, no IHT is due.

When the changes come into force, only £1m of the stud farm value would fall into the 0% tax charge; the additional £300,000 only qualifies for 50% relief. This would be taxed at 20%, totalling £60,000. Anne should seek professional advice to look at IHT tax mitigating solutions.

*Example only. Financial advice must be sought for each individual case.*

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Riders are often unsure when to use studs and how to select the right ones for their horse. H&H’s Pippa Roome seeks out some expert advice...

Are you fascinated by studs or do you see them as a necessary evil? It’s fair to say many riders are confused about when to use horse studs and may have been put off by some bad experiences along the way. Whether it’s spending frustrating hours trying to wheedle that tiny stone out of a stud hole, or sweating when the thread has twisted and the studs just won’t go in, if you use studs, it’s likely you’ve been there. So what is the best thing to do? And does your horses really need them?

When to use horse studs

Love them or loathe them, studs are as much a part of the competition scene as saddles and most riders competing on grass use them, especially if they are jumping. But should using studs be automatic or should we consider more carefully? How many studs is enough? And how big should they be?

“Don’t blame your studs,” says Holly Smith

Showjumper Holly Smith believes in understudding rather than overstudding and this is good advice, if in doubt. Holly thinks studs can make people ride recklessly.

“People ride as if studs are going to save them, but the most important factor when riding on grass is to keep horses’ confidence,” she says. “People spend too much time blaming their studs, rather than worrying about how they are riding.”

Holly’s husband, farrier Graham Smith, believes studs are “a necessary evil”. Like vet Richard Stephenson, he believes riders can be wrongly influenced into using too many studs by watching top competitors.

“Top horses are jumping bigger and turning tighter than your average horse,” he says. “People tend to put too many stud holes in, without regard for that and the fact the top boys are jumping on the best surfaces.”

While you might think a poor surface is a reason to use more studs, using too many on uneven footing can do more harm than good.

“It’s all about having the right size stud for the right conditions,” adds Graham. “Some horses are more sure-footed than others. We hunt our horses and school them round the farm, so they are used to working on different surfaces and balancing themselves.”

Don’t forget that in racing and out hunting, horses jump huge fences without studs. Granted, they may not take on the tight turns required in a jump-off or a cross-country combination, but jumping on grass does not have to go hand in hand with studding up.

How many studs should you use?

Having decided you are going to use studs, the next question is how many. Some riders are rumoured to use as many as six studs in each horseshoe. Top freelance groom Alex van Tuyll says she noted that the Swedes at the 2013 European Eventing Championships in Malmö generally had three studs per shoe across country.

“They went quicker and were more able to turn than the Brits,” she says. “But I would be nervous about doing that.”

The general consensus is that two per hoof is right in most circumstances.

Alex says: “If you compare it to people, if you snap a heel off and have no heel on one shoe, you have a really sore back before you get home. Why wouldn’t that be the same in horses?”

Holly concurs: “We always use two studs in all feet — especially on hard ground, you don’t want the horse to be uneven or twisting.”

Five-star event rider Nicky Roncoroni also favours two studs. But she would sometimes use only one on the outside of the shoe in the dressage, as she has found horses can knock themselves with an inside stud, particularly if they are young and unbalanced.

“Also, in young horse classes, you can’t use hind boots, so I would avoid studs on the inside of the hind shoes,” she says.

What sort of studs should you use?

Most riders and grooms use blunter studs inside and reserve those with points for the outside, because of the increased likelihood of injury if a horse catches itself with a sharp stud.

Richard Stephenson believes studs should be the same length on the inside and outside, even if you select different shapes.

Wetter, softer going generally demands bigger, squarer studs, while smaller, sharper ones are reserved for harder going.

However, event riders and grooms say that if the conditions get tough, big studs may be required.

“When I worked for William Fox-Pitt, we did use bigger studs than many people on cross-country day at three-days, but that was what the horses were used to,” says Alex.

“Once at Burghley when it was really wet, we bought extensions [a little block that screws into the stud hole and then has the stud screwed into it, making the stud larger].”

As a further example of this elite rider’s attention to detail, William’s horses had an extra stud hole on the outside of shoes for three-days, so they could still wear studs if something went wrong, such as a stud snapping off in the primary hole.

Nicky Roncoroni emphasises that horses have to retain the natural give in their stride — studs should not stop them in their tracks. But she has found she needs bigger studs now she rides faster and more competitively at the top level. At Pau in 2012, she took advice from experienced freelance groom Cara Bexton.

“I told Cara what studs I wanted and she said, ‘No, a lot bigger than that’,” recalls Nicky. “Until then I’d always erred on the side of caution. I also saw the studs the riders used at the 2012 Olympics and realised that bigger studs are necessary sometimes.”

Elodie Frost, former yard manager at eventer Gemma Stevens’ base, agrees.

“We use quite big studs most of the time, especially on the advanced horses who are going fast and over big fences — they need all the help they can get,” she says. “And as a groom, communicate with your rider — you might need to change studs halfway through the day.”

While ground is the driving force in choosing studs, Elodie and Alex say that horse type and movement are also a factor.

Alex adds: “A horse who is light on his feet will not need as much help as a heavier set one who gallops into the ground.”

Alex also says she would be particularly careful about stud choice, using smaller studs if a horse had glue-on shoes, which tend not to come off as easily as traditional nailed on ones.

The right decision for your horse

Studding is complicated and opinions vary on what is “right”. There are situations where it makes sense to consult more experienced riders or those who have already ridden the course.

But remember Richard Stephenson’s advice that you have to make your own decision about what is correct for your horse on the day.

• To stay up to date with all the breaking news from major shows throughout 2025, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

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Stal De Wiemselbach, situated in the rural Twente area of The Netherlands, is the sort of yard you wander around in a bit of a daze. From the dreamy facilities to the top stallions who call the stud home, it feels just a tad other-worldly. Among the stud’s residents are the likes of leading KWPN jumping sire Numero Uno, and his son Van Gogh, a hugely successful dual-purpose sire himself. Stud manager Daan Horn shows us around…

There’s no toss up between getting wet or cold or subjecting you and your horse to a dark, dank indoor school here. The 20x60m arena feels even larger thanks to the pristine cream walls and extensive windows, and it is accessible directly from the yard.

Both the stud’s indoor school, and it’s two enormous outdoor arenas feature an ebb and flow surface, offering automatic drainage and irrigation from the system installed beneath the arena. Humidity levels are constantly measured and controlled by sensors, and the surface can be made softer or firmer as required.

Everywhere you look around the stunning red brick yard you’ll see a variety of beautiful bronze statues by equine sculptor Erna Visser, including one particularly eye-catching exhibit depicting a mare and stallion.

In addition to its arenas, De Wiemselbach boasts two large lungeing pens, including a spacious, well-lit indoor one complete with smooth concrete walls to minimise the risk of an injury to the horses.

Seeing world-famous stallions up close at home is a huge privilege, and meeting Numero Uno was quite special. The Libero H son, whose offspring include Tamino, Tyson, Ammaretto and Van Gogh, is full of life aged 23, and is still ridden every day.

As if multiple arenas, lunge pens and a huge horse walker under construction wasn’t enough, De Wiemselbach also has its own gallop track winding through its nine acres of beautiful grounds, which helps to give the horses a change of scenery and some added fun.

We defy anybody not to feel a pang of envy when imagining living on site here, like Daan, international showjumper Caroline Muller and their three-year-old daughter Lisa.

And just when you thought it was all over… overlooking the vast indoor arena is a cosy bar, decked out with trophies, framed photographs and brightly coloured sashes, and featuring the Horn family’s ‘Libero H’ wine from their own vineyard.

Don’t miss H&H’s sport horse breeding special issues, out 1 March and 5 April.

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All eyes will be upon the inaugural ridden part-bred pony of the year class on the final day of the Horse of the Year Show (HOYS, 8-12 October). This is open to Welsh and Arab part-bred ponies and has proved immensely popular. The 14 qualifying rounds have involved a total of 423 ponies — averaging 30.2 at each show.

Cheshire County — the first qualifier — boasted 58 entries and was won by Rotherwood Rainmaker. He has since bowed out due to a judge connection at the final, allowing runner-up Balfour Toreador to qualify.

The class is defined by breeding rather than a specific type. Judges must assess exhibits on individual merit — conformation, quality, movement and, most importantly, performance. Joanne Griffin, who judged the last round at the Cherif championships, summed up the brief as looking for“a quality riding pony that went about its job”.

The class has highlighted the important contribution of Welsh and Arab blood in British pony breeding. It has also encouraged new people and ponies into top-class showing and — thanks to no upper age limit — allowed riders to continue showing their much-loved ponies for longer.

Jerome Harforth qualified the only stallion in the final — Willowcroft Regal Bronze (pictured above), an Australian import 10 years ago. He said that this “exciting new class has created a pathway to HOYS for stallions like ‘Skippy’”.

The final has also offered a number of HOYS regulars an extra class and, if successful, another route into the pony supreme. Glen Allen and Millpond Look So Cheeky may have gone into the record books when collecting their ticket at my North of England show, having previously competed in the coloured, show hunter pony (SHP) and working hunter pony sections at Birmingham. Four former HOYS show pony winners — Broadgrove Showman, Colbeach Duet, Dance All Night and Archwood Romeo Giggle — are also in the catalogue.

With such an eclectic mix of ponies, judges Pat Monaghan and Angela Calvert will certainly have their work cut out — although Angela (née Massarella) can reflect on the day, 46 years ago, when she won the show pony of the year title with her own part-bred Welsh Greenacres Twilight.

What’s in a name?

The Kellythorpes Leading Breeder award will be presented during the Friday evening performance. Having won by 120 points in 2013, can Anne Smalley’s Barkway Stud make it three in a row?

Many stud prefixes have become household names, but are those breeders who choose not to use a prefix undeservedly getting less recognition? I believe one such private breeder is Jackie Thompson, who has bred and been involved with some of the biggest winners in recent years. She bought Pearly King (with Jo MacInnes) and The Philanderer as youngsters — both supreme at HOYS — and the 2010 Cuddy champion Catwalk.

Her principal breeding line goes back to Tabitha Of Lennel via her foundation mare Whalton Tortoiseshell. Persian Blue produced the 2006 reserve champion, Top Cat. Another mare, Kitty Kelley — named after the American biographer and herself a finalist — is represented this time by the Grimshaws’ SHP yearling Moluccas Royal Anise. In the horse section is Skyfall, named by Jackie after the Bond film as he is out of Pussy Galore.

Under saddle, Dance All Night, bred by Jackie out of Whalton Rumba, could shake up the form in the show ponies on only her third seasonal outing. Now six, the Kilvington Scoundrel mare won the 148cm class on her previous HOYS appearance in 2012.

This column was originally published in Horse & Hound magazine on Thursday 2 October, 2014

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A new product claims to enable competition horses to have their studs fitted safely before travelling.

Co Down horse breeder Brian Livingstonehas designed what he believes is the first stud guard of its kind. StudSafe is a protective cover that fits over normal studs and allows the hoof to stand level and balanced on hard surfaces.

Mr Livingstone says this substantially reduces abnormal stress on the pedal bone, coffin joint and navicular area. The cover pushes on and peels off.

“I experienced the problem of putting studs in at events, where horses get excited by the new venue or situation,” he told H&H.

“It can be fiddly and awkward, especially with young horses. With this, you can fit the studs at home when the horse is calm and relaxed, fit the stud guard and then travel to the show.”

Event rider Jonathan Hagan tried the StudSafe while competing this month.

“I was a bit sceptical at first, but I really liked them and will certainly use them again,” he told H&H.

“It was handy to be able to stud up before you went to the event, rather than having to do five horses when you got there. And it was great they could stand on a flat surface for the day.”

The StudSafe costs £36 per pack of two and went on sale last week.

Visit: www.studsafe.com.

This news story was first published in the current issue of H&H (26 April 2012)

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Do you have big training plans with your horse for 2012?

A horseshoe stud company is offering four training bursaries this year, each worth £750.

SupaStuds has split the scholarships into four categories – ponies, juniors, young riders and adult amateurs.

SupaStuds’s Katie Williams told H&H: “We are passionate about supporting up-and-coming stars in every discipline, as well as the grass roots riders who are the backbone of equestrian sport.”

The company launched in 2005 offering tougher studs that are easier to insert than conventional models.

And now the company wants to hear about your training aims for the coming year and how you would spend the scholarship money if you won.

“SupaStuds are looking for riders with talent and commitment, who have set themselves clear and realistic goals for 2012 and beyond,” Ms Williams added.

Applications should be sent by email to scholarships@supastuds.com and the closing date is 31 January.

Please include your date of birth and full contact details including your postal and email addresses.

SupaStuds welcomes photos and videos of you with your horse as part of your application.

A short-list will be selected in each category and the successful applicants will be invited to a viewing day in the spring.

Ms Williams said: “Those who make it to the viewing day will be tested not only on their riding skills, but also their attitude.

“We want our winners to share their experiences through blogs, and so it is important they are good communicators.”

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Amerigo has launched the latest addition to its tack range — a new stud protector.

The Amerigo Stud Protector GH08 Girth has a unique anatomical shape that protects against stud injuries whilst not restricting the horse’s movement.

“It is easy to miss the small injuries that can be caused by jumping with studs in,” said a spokesman for the company. “This new guard helps avoid these injuries that can affect performance.”

The new Amerigo Stud Protector GH08 Girth comes in black, brown, oakbark and Newmarket and in sizes 120, 125, 130 and 135 cm. It costs £256.

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ShoeSecure, from SupaStuds, is a new invention to prevent a horse ripping off his front shoes in the field by treading on them.

Your horse losing horseshoes in the paddock can be a nightmare, with not only the inconvenience of replacing lost shoes but the risk of the shoe lying in the field with the nails sticking up.

ShoeSecure also protects the horse from over reaching and the hoof damage that can occur when a shoe is ripped off.

SupaStuds says that if used correctly the ShoeSecure will last for months.

ShoeSecure is designed to be used in the field only. It is made from an extremely strong thermoplastic polymer and is lightweight, strong and durable but still flexible.

Quick and easy to fit, you just hold it under the tap to clean.

ShoeSecure comes in a choice of colours and two sizes — shoe size 4-5 inches (small) and shoe size 5-6 inches (medium).

Larger shoe sizes can be accommodated with a simple modification to the medium ShoeSecure. Check your horse’s shoe size with your farrier.

The kit includes a pair of ShoeSecures and four ShoeSecure Studs and costs £45.

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