It’s the season of spring cleaning, and where better to address your attentions than focusing on how to deep clean your stable yard. Spick and span doesn’t just look pretty, it’s healthier for horse and human, and we’re not just talking about mucking out here – we’re going the full hog.

How to deep clean your stable

Jayne Tansey is one of the yard supervisors at the Philip Leverhulme Equine Hospital. A medical setting requires exemplary standards of cleanliness and hygiene. This is how she would deep clean a stable:

• Remove all faeces and urine, along with all the bedding, matting and equipment (buckets, tying-up string and so on)
• Empty and clean any associated drains
• Remove dust from all fixtures, such as lights, heaters, pipes, hayracks and from the rafters and roof
• Manually scrub walls and floors with an animal-safe general surface disinfectant (like this one) to remove organic matter and clean grossly contaminated areas
• Allow to dry
• For a really thorough clean, repeat steps four and five

Jayne recommends speaking to your local farm supplier to get advice on the best chemicals to use.

“We use non-residue high-level disinfectants that do not contaminate the environment,” she says. “Our disinfectants naturally degrade to water.”

Hygiene rules at home

Naturally, we may not be double-disinfecting our stables at home between each use as they do at equine hospitals, but clean beds go a long way in keeping horses healthy, especially when it comes to wind issues and infection.

Good hygiene is vital for equine health for three main reasons:

• It helps stop infections spreading from one horse to another
• It reduces a horse’s exposure to harmful bacteria in its environment
• It lowers the risk of pathogens (germs) passing between horses and the people who care for them

For Jade Roberts, head competition groom to five-star event rider David Doel, hygiene standards are very much part of the job description.

“If I tip water out of a water bucket into a glass – would you want to drink it?” she asks.

With the welfare of top competition horses at stake, it’s no wonder that Jade is so particular.

“Hygiene is extremely important, you’re trying to eliminate any disease and health issues,” she explains.

“We try to keep the same standards at home, when travelling and at competitions. I do all the international competitions, and the younger girls join me for the one-days at home, following the same procedures so everyone knows what they’re doing.”

Travelling horses to competitions, Jade is particularly concerned with hygiene in relation to their respiratory systems. “You don’t want any coughs or snotty noses.”

Cleaning routine on top event yard

Jade outlines the routine at David Doel’s.

• All the stables are mucked out every morning, and then also skipped out at lunch, in the afternoon (the slightly dirtier ones are mucked out again) and evening
• All water buckets and haynets come out before you start to muck out
• If a bed needs a top up, take the bank down and add fresh bedding to the banks rather than the middle of the bed to encourage rotation of the bed
• Loose bits are swept out rather than into the bed – fresh forage shouldn’t be put on top of the crummy bits, which are made up of bedding and seeds from the forage, as it festers and gets moist, which is not good for the horses’ respiratory systems.

How to deep clean your stable: what are you missing?

When it comes to maintaining good hygiene on our own yards, there are some commonly overlooked areas.

• Field troughs – standing water is an ideal breeding ground for bacteria
• Rubber matting – the stable looks clean but debris and moisture can build up underneath, so these need to be lifted regularly (use a mat mover tool like this one to help) and the floor properly cleaned and disinfected
• Tie-up strings – remove string between the turnover of horses, or use tie-up bungees that are washable
• Food and water bowls – these need washing with detergent and rinsing well
• Cross-tie clips if that area is communal
• Travel kit – anything that goes to competitions, clinics or camps, might need more frequent washing

Disinfecting a stable

Rosina Lillywhite, head of nursing at Liphook says that unfortunately, just sloshing around disinfectant isn’t the answer.

“Disinfectant is inactivated by organic material (like faeces and urine) so if you don’t remove that first, you’re just making your stable smell pretty.”

She also stresses the importance of correct contact time: “Disinfectant needs time to work, if it’s washed away it won’t be effective.”

Rebecca Bruford, head nurse at the Philip Leverhulme Equine Hospital, agrees that there’s a difference between a stable looking or smelling nice and actually being hygienic.

“Cosmetic cleanliness is important, but it is sensible to focus on risk-based hygiene,” she says.

She also says it’s worth being prepared for the worst.

“It might seem like overkill, but have a kit ready for a disease outbreak like strangles – a footbath, disposable hazmat suits, gloves – if it’s ready to go, then hopefully you never have to use it,” she says.

Tips for deep cleaning stables

• Use mole grips or mat mover tools (like this) to help you move rubber mats
• Use a garden knapsack sprayer (like this one) to apply disinfectant – you can even take it away with you to a stay-away show
• Don’t try to substitute good old-fashioned elbow grease – you cannot beat manual scrubbing!

How do professionals deep clean stables: the gold standard

Abiee Olver is yard nurse manager at Liphook Equine Hospital. Hygiene and biosecurity are the top priorities, and it’s reassuring to see quite how high the standard is, even if our own yards are put in the shade.

“We care for in-patients such as newborn foals and horses with weakened immune systems, alongside some isolation cases, so it’s our most important focus,” she says.

The team at Liphook follow strict protocols, including removing all bedding, scrubbing walls, water buckets and feed buckets.

“We wash our hands between patients, and any time we touch a horse for a medical procedure, we wear gloves,” she says.

Jayne Tansey says the Philip Leverhulme Equine Hospital is similarly meticulous.

“Hygiene and biosecurity within the hospital are a large part of the yard technicians’ and nurses’ role,” Jayne explains.

“After every inpatient is discharged, the bedding is removed, and the stable is thoroughly cleaned. Stables are only reallocated to patient use following a negative environmental swab.”

And it’s not just the stables that are tested for bacteria.

“Spot checks are carried out where any member of the team can have their hands swabbed at any point, which is sent to our onsite lab for analysis of bacteria.”

And while we don’t need to go as far as swabbing our fellow liveries, Jayne points out that keeping on top of germs in our own stable management routine is important.

“You may not need hospital level protocols at home, but biosecurity is still very relevant,” she says.

“Damp and warm environments, such as stables and high touch areas, act as the perfect bacterial breeding ground. Biofilms can form on these surfaces, building over time that can make it difficult to remove bacteria and disinfectant becomes less effective.

“So, it’s important to clean ‘high touch’ areas such as tack rooms regularly.”

Andrea O’Brien is company director at Equine International Shipping in Ireland.

“Hygiene is very important in the world of horse transportation,” she says. “For a number of different reasons, mostly biosecurity for safeguarding against the spread of disease, bacterial, viral or fungal infections, for example, ringworm.”

As well as maintaining hygiene standards for the horses in transit, they also have a layover yard where horses stay for their Department of Agriculture inspection, before leaving the country or on entry.

“Our layover stables have composite walls and sealed floors,” says Andrea.

“We empty every bit of shavings out of the box and wash down the walls with a soft brush, with disinfectant. We give the soft, sealed floors a brush down, let that dry and then later in the week we knapsack spray, then do all the feed pods, hay bars and the drinkers.”

Scientific understanding of bacteria, viruses, how they’re transmitted and the dangers of antimicrobial resistance is increasing all the time. Arming ourselves with the latest knowledge will help us keep our horses safe and reduce the risk of avoidable diseases.

Rosina says we shouldn’t be afraid to ask the experts around us: “If you’d like advice on hygiene and protocols, do speak to your vet or veterinary nurse as they’ll be happy to help you put a simple plan in place, so you can see what good practice looks like and where improvements might be needed.”

And, as Andrea concludes, “The cleaner the environment, the healthier the horse, at the end of the day.”

• For unlimited access to advice on how best to care for your horse, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

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For those without mains power, the best solar lights for stables and arenas offer an excellent solution for the winter months. How often have you arrived at the yard only to realise you’ve misplaced your headtorch or it’s out of charge? If you’re like me, it’s far too often – and while headtorches are handy for changing rugs and smaller jobs, some tasks just need more light.

Investing in the best solar lighting for your needs will make life easier throughout winter. These systems are environmentally friendly, easy to install, and free to operate. Solar-powered arena lights are an ideal solution for exercising your horse during the winter, ensuring your training continues even when you can’t ride within daylight hours.

Best solar lights for stables and around the yard

SolarMate Hubi Hub Work 16

Brightness: 300 lumens

Warranty: 2 years for hub, 10 years for solar panel

H&H Rating: 10/10, H&H Approved

Reasons to buy

• Fully expandable
• Two USB power outlets

Reasons to avoid

• If you are looking to light a larger area see the Hubi Work 64

This is the ideal setup for one stable, but also gives you the option of adding more lights at a later stage if needed with this expansion kit.

The system is made up of a single LED strip (that can be added to), hub and solar panel. The single strip as sold lights up to 16m² and it charges in around 4–5 hours dependent on weather conditions. It also has two USB power outlets so that you can use it as a power bank.

We tested the Hubi Hub 16 and rated it H&H Approved. Our tester used it in a remote and awkward site, found it easy to install and liked how it could be expanded as your needs grow.

Read H&H’s independent Hubi Hub 16 review.

Apollo Solar LED Batten

Brightness: 2,500 lumens

Warranty: 3 years on parts, 1 year on battery

Reasons to buy

• Suitable for indoor or outdoor use
• Perfect substitute for conventional fluorescent lights
• Long run time

Reasons to avoid

• Separate solar panel might not suit your needs

This single light setup has in-built motion sensor and separate solar panel with a 5m cable. It can be controlled via a remote or wired wall switch, and is suitable for both indoor and outdoor use. With a full charge, this light will power for eight hours. It’s a great investment if you are after a bright light in your stable that has a long run time.

Flare Solar Brick

Brightness: 900 lumens

Warranty: 5 years on LED, 1 year on battery

Reasons to buy

• Easy to set up
• Ideal for use above doors, walkways, small yards and gateways

Reasons to avoid

• If you are looking to light a large area

These lights would be handy to have around the yard or walkways. They are easy to install and have two automatic modes. The brock includes 35 LEDs and motion sensor with detection distance of 6m.

SolarMate Hubi Work 64

Brightness : 300 lumens

Warranty: 2 years for hub, 10 years for solar panel

Reasons to buy

• No specialist tools or knowledge needed to install
• Can be used as power bank
• Battery level indicator

Reasons to avoid

• If you are looking for a smaller setup see the Hubi Work 16

This setup is perfect if you have more than one stable or a large barn to light as it provides bright, even lighting across indoor areas up to 64m². It includes four high-efficiency LED light strips, a hub and solar panel, and can provide one to two hours of light during the winter and up to seven hours at other times of the year. You can purchase an expansion pack to add extra solar power and LED strip lights if needed.

Dancingboar Rechargeable LED Work Light

Brightness: 2,000 lumens

Reasons to buy

• Good battery life
• Can be used as a power bank
• Portable
• Bright
• 4 lighting modes
• Inexpensive

Reasons to avoid

• No warranty

This portable light would be ideal if your horses live out – with its magnetic base you could stick it on your gate to carry out rug checks, for example. It could also come in handy while you are away at stay away shows or camps.

The main advantages are that it is portable, lightweight and compact, and has a handy battery level indicator. It has four light modes, a magnetic base and can also be used as a power bank to charge your phone. With a full charge, this light will power for five hours.

Helios Solar Floodlight

Brightness level: 4,800 lumens

Warranty: 5 years for LED , 1 year for battery

Reasons to buy

• Can be used inside or outside
• Several settings
• Remote control operation
• Bright light

Reasons to avoid

• If you are after a light with a built-in solar panel

This is the brightest stable light in this guide, boasting an impressive 4,800 lumens output. It’s a versatile floodlight with several settings and is programmed via remote. The solar panel can be mounted up to 5m away, and it is suitable for indoor and outdoor use.

This light is perfect for use in a barn or stable yard. It could be used in an arena, but there are other options available with built-in solar panels that are less bulky.

Best solar lights for arenas

SolarMate Arena 2K Floodlight

Brightness: 2,000 lumens

Warranty: 2 years

Reasons to buy

• Good warranty
• Can purchase a solar panel to extend run time
• Remote controlled

Reasons to avoid

• Costly if you want to fit out your arena

This weatherproof floodlight covers 300m² with solar cell and internal battery pack – you’ll need six lights to illuminate a 40x30m arena. It has motion-activation and timed modes, and you can add supercharge solar panels to extend the light’s nightly run time by up to six times.

Mini Saber Solar Floodlight

Brightness level: 1,600 lumens

Warranty: 5 years for LED, 1 year on battery

Reasons to buy

• Ideal for smaller areas
• Weatherproof

Reasons to avoid

• If you are looking for a more powerful light see Saber Solar Arena

This self-sufficient, automatic lighting solution with a remote is ideal for areas up to 15m², and it has a detection distance of 8–12m. This light would be great for smaller yards, gateways and arenas.

Equisafety Solar LED

Brightness: 800 lumens

Reasons to buy

• Versatile – flexible mounting options
• USB charging option

Reasons to avoid

• Costly if you need to light a large area

This light is super handy and would be great to take out to the field and clip on a fence or gate. have to hand in an emergency and can also offer extra lighting in your arena.

It’s waterproof and and can be clipped various objects to mount, which gives it great portability. It can be charged via solar panels or USB. For a 20x40m arena, you’d need 16 units to ensure uniform lighting throughout.

Saber Solar Arena Floodlight

Brightness level: 4,800 lumens

Warranty: 5 years on LED, 1 year on battery

Reasons to buy

• Very bright
• Choice of lighting modes

Reasons to avoid

• Initial outlay is costly if using in an arena

These lights would be costly to fit out your arena but they are bright boasting 4,800 lumens output – you would need six of these units to light a 20x60m arena. They are ideal for those on small yards with limited riders as they are not able to run for long periods of time over consecutive days.

These powerful floodlights have built-in solar panel and asymmetrical beam angle for optimum coverage, plus a detection distance of 8–12m. When fully charged it will run for approximately two hours at full output.

SyouHome Solar Street Lights

Brightness: 2,000 lumens

Reasons to buy

• 3 lighting modes with remote control
• Waterproof and durable
• Great value

Reasons to avoid

• No warranty

These enhanced outdoor solar lights will provide lighting of up to 2,000 lumens, with three lighting modes and a remote control for convenient use. It has a powerful and waterproof design to withstand the outdoors. These look great if you have a tight budget but looking for bright lights for your arena.

Benefits of solar powered lights

Solar power is a greener alternative to traditional lighting. Whether you’re trying to reduce your carbon footprint, cut down your electricity bill or don’t have access to mains power, solar lighting is a reliable and safe option. These lights generally require very little wiring and are virtually maintenance free as most of the lighting components have a long lifespan.

How to choose solar lights

Lighting serves a functional purpose, so consider the tasks you’ll be performing under them – is it mucking out, making feeds, changing rugs, turning out, picking out feet, or riding? The amount of light needed for each task will vary; for riding, brightness is crucial.

Pay close attention to the lumens, which indicate the brightness of the output; higher lumen values mean brighter light. We have listed lumen information where available for each product.

What are lumens?

Lumens are a measure of the total amount of visible light (to the human eye) from a source, with a higher lumen count indicating a brighter light.

Do I need planning permission for solar powered arena lights?

Generally, planning permission isn’t required for battery-powered, outdoor-rated lights since they are considered portable and not hard-wired. However, local light pollution regulations could apply. Solar-powered options are often viewed more favourably. It’s always advisable to consult your local authority for specific guidance.

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Two men have been arrested after a series of burglaries and theft of horse tack and equipment – some of which has been found and will be returned to its owners.

Dorset Police rural crime team officers stopped a vehicle in the Bournemouth area on 1 April and arrested two of its occupants on suspicion of theft.

A spokesperson for police said it was reported that a stable in West Parley was broken into between Saturday and Sunday, 22 and 23 March, and saddles and rugs were stolen. At about 11.40am on the Sunday, it was reported, riding hats, tack, headcollars and saddles were stolen from a storage unit in the Winterborne Zelston area. Police had a report of equipment being stolen from a shed in the Corfe Mullen area on the Sunday afternoon, and two of suspicious activity, in the Sherborne and Weymouth areas later that afternoon and evening, although it is believed nothing was stolen in these two incidents.

“Following enquiries by officers from the rural crime team, two men aged in their 20s and from Bournemouth were arrested on suspicion of theft,” the Dorset Police spokesperson said.

A spokesperson for the rural crime team said the arrests came after its investigation into the offences.

“With assistance from Bournemouth North NPT officers, post-arrest searches were conducted and the vehicle suspected to have been used in these offences was located and seized,” he said. “Stolen horse tack from the two burglaries and one theft was also located and will be returned to their rightful owners in due course.

“The rural crime team is also urging equestrians and livery yards to remain vigilant and has been carrying out visits to yards in the area to officer security advice.”

The men have been interviewed and bailed from police custody while officers carry out further enquiries.

• To stay up to date with all the breaking news from major shows throughout 2025, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

You may also be interested in:

8 tips to avoid being caught out when buying secondhand equestrian kit

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Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

You’re on the search for one of the best stable cameras? Whether you’re preparing for foaling, need to keep an eye on a poorly patient on box rest or just enjoy the idea of watching your horses from the comfort of your sofa, there are plenty of stable cameras to choose from. Plus, not only do stable cameras allow you to keep an eye on your horse, but they can boost your yard security and help to deter thieves, too.

I’ve selected a range of cameras suitable that allow you to check in on your horses when you’re away from the yard. We’ve covered a range of budgets and a range of features you’ll be sure to find something suitable for your needs.

Best stable cameras: H&H’s quick guide

Best battery/solar-powered camera: Reolink Go PT Plus

Best value camera: ieGeek 3G/4G LTE

Best mains-powered camera: Genbolt 3G/4G LTE

Best camera for crime prevention: Guard My Farm WiFi

Reolink Go PT Plus

Connectivity: 3G/4G

Power: Battery or optional solar

RRP: From £159.99 for camera only

H&H Review: 10/10, H&H Approved

Reasons to buy

• Operates via a sim card no need for Wi-Fi
• Two-way audio
• Controllable via an app

Reasons to avoid

• Cost increases as you need to buy a memory card, solar panel and sim card separately (although sometimes a bundle is on offer)

You can use this waterproof, wireless camera without Wi-Fi and without mains power, which makes it suitable for any yard. It gives you a really wide field of view with 355° pan and 140° tilt, so is ideal if you’re looking for a field and yard camera. It has a high resolution of 2K 4MP Super HD, a zoom function, 33ft night vision and benefits from intelligent person and vehicle detection. The app can alert you when the camera senses the movement, and offers live view and playback.

The camera also has an effective two-way audio system so you can communicate with someone through the camera using the app. You can also take instant time- and date-stamped screenshots from the live recordings

The battery lasts up to four weeks, depending on usage before it needs recharging, but you can connect a Reolink solar panel via a USB cable for non-stop supply. The Go PT Plus has 32GB of memory built in, but you can add a Micro SD card to add another 128GB or store seven days of footage for free in the Reolink Cloud.

H&H’s Becky Murray tested this camera and was really impressed. She found the picture quality was excellent day and night. If you get the package with the solar panel, it offers everything you need from an outdoor camera, especially yards with no Wi-Fi or electricity.

Read H&H’s independent Reolink Go PT Plus review.

ieGeek 3G/4G LTE Outdoor Camera

Connectivity: 3G/4G

Power: Solar

RRP: £149.99

Reasons to buy

• Supplied with solar panel and memory card
• Control remotely from app

Reasons to avoid

• If you are only monitoring one stable you might be able to get a fixed camera

This camera comes complete with a 64MB memory card and is connected to a network via a SIM card and powered by sunlight, with a solar panel (included) you can install it anywhere without wifi coverage and electricity. It has a 4x zoom function, 355° horizontal rotation and 120° vertical tilt, which you can control remotely via the app.

It has 2K resolution and 33 feet colour night vision aided by built-in spotlights. It can track human movement.

Genbolt 3G/4G LTE Outdoor Camera

Connectivity: 3G/4G or POE

Power: Mains

RRP: £89.99

Reasons to buy

• Supplied with a 300MB trial SIM card
• Provides all-round coverage

Reasons to avoid

• Mains powered might not suit everyone’s needs

This waterproof mains powered camera doesn’t need wifi. This 4G camera comes with an exclusive high-speed SIM card inserted, which includes 300MB of cellular data for a 30 day trial. You can view live footage with multiple users online at the same time and easily refill and check your remaining data on an app. With customizable motion detection you’re able to set 1-4 specific detection zones for your camera, preventing false alarms. It offers 355° Pan, 90° Tilt and 4X digital zoom providing you all-round protection.

It has colour night vision aided by built-in floodlights. It can track human movement and has two-way audio.

Guard My Farm WiFi Outdoor Security Camera

Connectivity: 4G or WiFi

Power: Mains or optional solar

RRP: £135.99

Reasons to buy

• Super HD resolution
• All-round coverage and 4 x zoom controlled via an app
• Live stream, record, store and download footage

Reasons to avoid

• If you don’t have a use for the extra features

You can use this waterproof, wireless camera that gives you a really large field of view with pan and tilt rotation providing 360° surveillance perfect for use as a field or yard camera. With a high resolution of 3MP Super HD, a 4x zoom function, 65ft full colour night vision and benefits from human triggered motion detection. The app can support multiple users and allows you to position the camera where needed.

The camera can be powered by solar or plugged into the mains. It also has an effective two-way audio system so you can communicate with someone through the camera using the app. The WiFi outdoor wireless security camera has a built in siren alarm, security lights and will instantly notify you of activity detected.

Ezviz CB8 2K

Connectivity: WiFi

Power: Battery or optional solar

RRP: £129.99

Reasons to buy

• Offers 360° view
• Battery or solar powered
• Colour night vision

Reasons to avoid

• If you need a solar panel this is sold separately

This wireless weatherproof camera benefits from a 360° field of view and boasts up to 210 days of battery life. Features include person detection, auto-tracking and colour night vision, and with no wires it’s easy to install. It has 2K resolution, smart human motion detection and auto-tracking, colour night vision and two-way audio.

You can use a Micro SD card up to 256 GB, and it works with an Ezviz solar panel for non-stop power.

Reolink Go Plus

Connectivity: 3G/4G

Power: Battery or optional solar

RRP: From £169.99 for camera only

Reasons to buy

• Battery or solar powered
• High resolution images

Reasons to avoid

• It doesn’t come with any built in memory, so you will need to purchase a memory card

If you don’t have the budget for the Go PT Plus, this Reolink camera boasts many of the same benefits, including image quality, plus it’s still suitable for yards without Wi-Fi or mains power. The main difference is that this camera doesn’t pan or tilt, so would be better suited covering a smaller area such as a stable. It also doesn’t come with any built in memory, but there is a Micro SD card slot so you can add up to 128MB or use the Reolink Cloud.

Farmstream Static 5MP Camera

Connectivity: WiFi, 4G or POE/WiFi

Power: Mains or battery

RRP: From £149

Reasons to buy

• If you are looking for a mains powered camera
• Stream live footage from app

Reasons to avoid

• Fixed position camera – so if you need to view a wider area look for a camera that pans and tilts

The Farmstream 5MP Static Camera has a viewing angle of 75° and night vision range of 30m. It is a fixed position camera (no panning or tilting option, but you can choose the initial position) with 5MP HD resolution. It is available in a Wi-Fi or 4G model, and can be plugged into the mains or powered by a standard 12V leisure battery.

The app allows you to stream footage remotely, receive motion detection alerts and set recording times. You can use an SD card with up to 256GB footage, which is approximately eight day’s worth.

This camera is described as easy and simple to install – plug it in, download the app and scan the QR code on the base of the camera to connect.

Xega 3G/4G LTE Outdoor Camera

Connectivity: 3G/4G

Power: Battery/solar

RRP: £139.99

Reasons to buy

• Battery can be boasted by solar panel
• 4x zoom
• Colour night vision

Reasons to avoid

• If you are looking for a camera to cover one stable you might not need the pan features it offers

This water-resistant camera doesn’t need Wi-Fi and comes with a rechargeable battery that can be boosted by a solar panel. The camera can pan 355°, vertically tilt 95° and has 4x digital zoom. It has HD night vision, which enables the camera to capture 2K colour footage up to 65ft.

You can use the app to control the pan and tilt, and access the camera’s live footage at any time, as well as replay and download footage.

JideTech 5MP PTZ Outdoor Camera

Connectivity: POE

Power: Mains/battery or mains only

RRP: £269

Reasons to buy

• Offers 20x zoom
• Pan and tilt features
• Two-way audio

Reasons to avoid

• Uses an ethernet cable to transmit both power and data

The HD 5MP camera has 20x zoom, which provides sharp and clear images, with night vision that allows you to see movement up to 400ft away. It has intelligent motion detection and automatic tracking, with the ability to pan 355° and tilt vertically 90°. It has two-way audio and has a 128GB SD card slot for storing footage.

Hiseeu PTZ 5X Zoom Outdoor Camera

Connectivity: WiFi

Power: Mains

RRP: £109.99

Reasons to buy

• Can remotely control via an app
• Pan and tilt features

Reasons to avoid

• Mains powered so not suitable for stables with no mains power supple

This waterproof camera is a great option if your stable block has ethernet or 2.4Ghz WiFi connection. It has a 5x zoom function, 320° panning and 90° vertical tilt, which you can control remotely via the app.

It has 2K resolution and 65ft colour night vision aided by two built-in floodlights. It can track human movement and has two-way audio. The camera supports up to 128GB SD card recording and cloud storage.

Xega 4G LTE Outdoor Camera

Connectivity: 4G

Power: Solar

RRP: £199.99

Reasons to buy

• Weatherproof camera can be used outdoors
• Comes complete with solar panel and prepaid 300mb sim card
• Records 24/7 not only when motion is detected

Reasons to avoid

• Camera needs to be positioned outdoors as the solar panel is positioned on top of the camera to offer non-stop power

This 3MP HD weatherproof wireless camera runs off a mobile phone network and is powered by a solar panel. Comes complete with 20W solar panel, prepaid 300MB SIM card. Unlike other cameras it can record 24/7 not only when motion is detected. This camera can turn 355°horizontally and 95° vertically, pan and tilt. You can remotely control the pan-tilt and view live footage from the App.

It has four built-in infrared LEDs, two night vision modes for use even in complete darkness. It supports an SD card to record footage that you can view from the app or on your computer. It has two-way audio and the option of alerts sent to your phone.

Can you use stable cameras with no Wi-Fi?

Stables often don’t have access to Wi-Fi, while many also don’t have access to mains power, but there are stable cameras designed for every situation.

In order to be able to watch your camera live or download footage wirelessly to your phone, you need some sort of internet connection. Considering most yards don’t have Wi-Fi connection – or at least not close enough for a strong signal – you’ll be pleased to know that you don’t need Wi-Fi to make use of a stable camera. Of course, if you do have Wi-Fi connection, then there are camera options that run off the Wi-Fi, too.

Most stable cameras run off the mobile network – all you need is a SIM card, which you insert into the camera and top up like you would a pay-as-you-go phone or pay a SIM-only monthly contract. It’s worth finding out what networks are strongest in your area to ensure you get a reliable connection.

You can also connect a camera via a PoE (power over ethernet) connection, which provides both power and internet via a single cable. You don’t need outdoor mains to use a PoE camera, but you need a PoE network switch and you have to run a cable from a power source from a nearby building. PoE is generally considered to give a more reliable connection than Wi-Fi, so this is a good option if your stables are fairly close to your house.

How to choose the best stable camera

There are several features that make some cameras stand out as particularly good, but much of the answer depends on how you hope to use your camera – for example, whether it will view a single stable, the yard area or field.

First of all, you need a camera that is suitable for outdoor use – if you’re unsure, look for the ratings IP66, which offers the highest protection against water and dust, or IP69K, which means it has also been tested in high temperatures. All the cameras we’ve featured below are suitable for outdoor use.

Secondly, you want to ensure the camera offers good image quality – many are HD – and good night vision capabilities. If you’re looking to monitor an area larger than a standard 12x12ft stable, then zoom function will also be beneficial. Likewise, depending on the size and shape of the area you’re monitoring, panning and tilting functions could be incredibly beneficial as they allow you to view a much larger area. Wireless cameras are easy to move and suffer less from interference.

Other handy features include two-way audio, which allows you to communicate with someone in your stable. This could be useful for giving rugging instructions as well as warning away an intruder. Motion detection is also beneficial for security purposes.

When it comes to storage, there are a couple of options. Most cameras support an SD card, but some will have a more generous size limit. Some cameras also have a cloud function, which is useful if you need to store large amounts of footage. Finally, it would be foolish to forget the app as you’ll be using this regularly. Check reviews before making your purchase to ensure it is easy to use and has the functions you require.

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Providing the best stable environment for your horse is high on any owner’s list of priorities. While many of us would opt for extensive and unrestricted turnout for our equine friends given the choice, many horses spend increased hours in the stable this time of year for a number of reasons – yard turnout rules, frozen or poached ground, or even a period of box rest following injury or illness.

While we know that providing our horses with freedom to move, graze and socialise gives them optimal conditions to function healthily, long-term solutions to limited turnout such as paddock regeneration or a yard move, take time to implement. However, there are plenty of short-term fixes you can action now to improve your horse’s stable environment…

1. Clean between the mats

Most of us have morning mucking out down to a fine art and transforming a dung-strewn stable into a well-formed bed takes just minutes. Even in that short time, though, your nose probably becomes desensitised to the pungent ammonia smell that emanates from dirty bedding.

Ammonia, an alkaline gas, is an irritant which is produced when urea in your horse’s urine is broken down by enzymes that digest it. Prolonged exposure to ammonia is linked to irritation to the skin and lungs, which is why removing urine-soaked bedding is so important to stable hygiene.

Soiled bedding loves to congregate in the cracks between rubber matting and it’s easy to miss it sneaking under there and building up. Next time you muck out, push your horse’s bed back, peel back the edge of your mat and see what you can dig out with the end of a fork and broom. Not only is it super-satisfying – TikTok is definitely missing mucking out ASMR – but removing the festering, ammonia-producing bacteria will help sanitise the air in your stable environment, too.

2. Get scrubbing

Cleaning your horse’s water buckets is a no-brainer, but is one of those jobs you miss in a hurry. However, algae can form quickly and some varieties produce harmful toxins, so regular scrubbing is a must.

It’s straightforward to spot and clean a dirty water bucket, but automatic drinking systems can be harder to keep track of. As a rule, the bowl should be emptied and cleaned as regularly as you would a bucket. The easiest method is to let it drain into a bucket below the trough and scrub while elevating the float so it doesn’t refill. Be sure you regularly check the delivery system, too, which should be accessible under the cover. You might need a screwdriver to get into it, though!

3. Rearrange your wall-drobe

Tack room space is often scarce and making several trips to and from it is a chore, so many of us store rugs, bandages and boots in our stables for ease and to reclaim some space. Over time, these items attract dust and hay spores, which contaminate the stable environment. Take them outside today and give them a shake, but also consider whether all of these items are in regular circulation. When was the last time you used that one smelly stable rug? Or the white tendon boots? If they’re not in common use, give them a wash and store them elsewhere. You can even vacuum pack them to save space and keep them fresh.

4. Make forage fun

It’s not just cleanliness that’s important – lack of mental stimulation can lead to boredom, stress and the rise of stable vices. The best stable toys, treat balls and licks work well, but if you’re calorie conscious or your horse is accident prone then hiding fibre nuts or carrots in his hay ration will help give him something to engage his brain. Quarter the carrots lengthwise to make a little go a long way.

5. Take a walk

Perhaps you don’t have time to squeeze in a ride or you’re inadvertently ten minutes ahead of schedule? Use that time to pop your horse in a turnout or lunge pen, even the school if your yard allows, so he can stretch his legs and have a good roll. He’ll definitely appreciate a change of scene. Or take him for a hand walk, on or off yard, and let him investigate verges and hedgerows for a quick snack. It’ll be most welcome if he’s on fewer grazing hours at the moment.

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While the best tack lockers won’t hold off the most determined tack thieves, they’ll certainly act as a deterrent, while also keeping your kit clean, organised and protected from damage. Tack lockers and trolleys are a practical solution, whether you’re looking to store your tack when you’re at home, competing away or on the move. They can be used at the yard to keep your things separate in a shared space, or wheeled to your stable at a show for easy access.

When choosing the best tack locker for you, ensure it has enough storage for the number of horses you require. Some are portable, with wheels and handles, while others are designed for permanent residence in your tack room, so where you hope to use it is probably your most important consideration.

Best tack lockers for storage

Equestrian Fabrication Tack Locker

RRP: £568

Dimensions: 150cm(h) x 110cm(w) x 65cm(d)

Weight: 97kg

This galvanised steel tack locker is ideal for a two-horse owner or an owner with both a jump and a dressage saddle. It has two saddle racks, two bridle hooks and three additional shelves.

In the UK? View now at ebay.co.uk

Classic Showjumps Tack Pack

RRP:£493.82

Dimensions: 114cm(h) x 61cm(w) x 76cm(d)

This compact trolley holds two saddles, two bridles, plus bandages and boots, riding hat and grooming kit. It’s handy for camps, stay-away events and riding holidays.

In the UK? View now at ebay.co.uk

VidaXL Small Tack Locker

RRP: £134.99

Dimensions: 105cm(h) x 53cm(w) x 53cm(d)

This steel saddle cabinet is a smart option for keeping your tack organised. It features a height-adjustable saddle rack in addition to four moveable hooks.

In the UK? View now at amazon.co.uk or ebay.co.uk

VidaXL Large Tack Locker

RRP: £166.99

Dimensions: 140cm(h) x 53cm(w) x 53cm(d)

This tack locker is similar in design with a height-adjustable saddle rack in addition to four moveable hooks, but it gives you a little more space with an additional top compartment.

In the UK? View now at amazon.co.uk or ebay.co.uk

Wiesenfield WIE-SC-2000 Saddle Cabinet

RRP: £629

Dimensions: 200cm(h) x 60cm(w) x 60cm(d)

This locker makes optimal use of the available floor space and is a great option if you have a tall slim space available. It has two saddle racks, four bridle hooks and two shelves.

In the UK? View now at amazon.co.uk

Equine Lockers Double Tack Locker

RRP: From £1,715

Dimensions: 183cm(h) x 126cm(w) x 68cm(d), height without wheels = 159cm

These tack cases are fully customisable and built to order. This size offers the option of storage for six saddles or three saddles and three compartments, plus six bridle hooks and two slide-out drawers. It is secured with three heavy duty catches and a digital combination lock. It also features six heavy-duty recessed flip handles, a winch point for pulling the locker into vehicles, and recessed vents for airflow.

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Figures supplied by NFU Mutual show that rural crime cost an estimated £44.5 million during 2017. Farms and outbuildings are particularly vulnerable as the clocks go back and the evenings get darker and longer, providing cover for thieves to work under — are you sure your tack is safe? What can and should you be doing to protect it?

1. Keep tack in a secure, locked tackroom

The MLA advises rural businesses to consult an MLA-approved locksmith, who will be able to carry out a security assessment on property and recommend suitable locks and fittings, as well as providing input from a safety point of view. A local, professional locksmith may also be able to perform a complete security assessment of stable yard and tackroom free of charge.

2. Don’t be tempted to economise by buying cheap locks

It is worth investing in high quality locks, chains and padlocks, making sure that you use products that have been approved by an independent product testing house — such as Sold Secure — to provide peace of mind (visit www.soldsecure.com to check for their lists of approved products). The MLA advises using good quality padlocks with heavy duty hasp and staple on barn and outbuilding doors, fitted directly to the door, with two equally spaced locks from top to bottom.

3. Perform regular and thorough maintenance security checks

Look for rusted locks, chains, hasps and staples, cracked panes of glass and rotten frames and sills, says the MLA — these are all features that opportunistic thieves look out for, so get them replaced or fixed as soon as possible.

Continued below…

11 warning signs your tack room is out of control

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4. Put bars on your tackroom window

The HorseWatch Alliance recommends putting bars on tackroom windows, as these are a common point of entry.

5. Control access to your yard

Ensure gates and doors are kept securely locked and only approved personnel have keys. Use padlocks rather than chains, as chains can easily be cut with boltcutters.

6. Keep an eye out for strangers on your yard

The HorseWatch Alliance suggests politely asking people you don’t recognise on the yard if you can help them, or who they are looking for. If unhappy with their answer, take note of their description and vehicle type/colour/registration.

7. Keep an inventory

Keep a comprehensive, up-to-date inventory of all your tack, including colour and make and any security markings, with photographs.

8. Invest in a tack locker

Consider investing in a tack locker, such as TackGuard from Equine Security which holds up to four saddles and is bolted to the floor.

9. Get your tack marked

The Metropolitan Police advises that marked tack is a good deterrent for thieves. Their advice is to engrave/punch your postcode (or that of your yard) followed by the number of the premises onto your saddle (under the flap) and bridle. You can buy inexpensive kit to do this yourself from DIY stores, or you’ll often find a tack marking service offered at local shows. Your local HorseWatch scheme may also be able to mark it for you — visit www.ukhorsewatch.org.uk.

10. Consider CCTV

Install CCTV, sensory lighting and security systems, recommends the MLA. Although expensive, these act as effective deterrents.

11. Be vigilant at shows

If attending a show, be vigilant about your tack. Ensure it’s marked, and when you are not using it, lock it into your car or lorry.

12. Insure your tack

Some horse insurance policies also cover tack theft, as do some home insurance policies. It’s up to you to ensure you are covered.

For more information about the MLA visit: www.locksmiths.co.uk

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Biosecurity may be a buzzword in veterinary circles, but what does it mean for the horse owner in practical terms?

Put simply, biosecurity refers to the good hygiene practices that prevent the transmission of infectious disease. Looking back at the outbreaks of equine flu and strangles that have ravaged the equestrian population this year, causing sickness and yard closures, the need for better protection is clear.

“Infections are constantly circulating, so the threat is always there,” says Fleur Whitlock MRCVS, who stresses that biosecurity is our first line of defence. “By adopting everyday yard hygiene habits, we can work to ensure that our horses stay healthy and infection-free.”

Protect your premises with some simple steps…

Understand the risks

“Biosecurity is applicable to the whole horse population,” says Fleur, emphasising that it’s not just the big, busy yards that need to worry. “It’s important to remember that infectious disease can be spread through direct and indirect contact.

“Infection is more obviously shared through direct horse-to-horse contact, occurring over the stable door or in the field, or at a show or event,” she explains. “But those stay-at-home horses are at risk, too, as we can spread infection on our hands as we touch or handle different animals or move between yards.”

Identify the essentials

The “gold standard” yard biosecurity measures are outlined in the Horserace Betting Levy Board codes of practice (codes.hblb.org.uk). Is it practical to implement all the recommendations, on a regular basis?

“There are many hygiene and management habits that should be undertaken daily,” says Fleur, who highlights examples such as disinfecting feed and water buckets, and cleaning your hands between touching different animals. “While the real benefits are gained when habits are carried out at all times, some may need to be adapted to your individual situation and escalated at times of increased risk. It takes time to make change, but persevere so that good hygiene becomes second nature.”

Draw up a plan

If you haven’t done so already, set out your yard biosecurity plan.

“Discuss your approach with everyone involved, including grooms and liveries, making sure that everyone knows the plan and sticks to it,” says Fleur. “This includes yard visitors, such as vets, farriers and clients.”

Keep things clean

Washing hands — even between horses on the same yard — will help halt the spread of infection, says Fleur. Another option is to use antibacterial hand gel placed at strategic points around the yard, such as the entrance gate and outside stables.

“Disinfect your hands and ideally change into clean clothes when dealing with groups of horses that would not normally have any contact,” she adds. “Designate horses to certain groups and keep these the same at turnout time and when stabling. Each horse should have his own equipment, such as headcollar, grooming kit and buckets, clearly labelled.”

Isolate new arrivals

“A new horse is a common cause of an infection outbreak,” says Fleur, who recommends a 21-day isolation period — even if the newcomer appears outwardly healthy. “Ensure that he is vaccinated against equine flu, but remember that he will only have protection from two weeks after the second vaccine in a primary course,” she adds. “Ask your vet about any tests for infectious disease, such as the blood test that can identify carriers of strangles.”

Be alert for signs

Reduced appetite? Runny nose? Not quite himself? These are all signs that a horse may be ill.

“Additional signs that suggest he has an infection could include lethargy, coughing, swollen lymph nodes in the throat area and a temperature of 38.5°C or above,” explains Fleur. “Taking and recording a horse’s rectal temperature daily is advisable, especially at times of high risk such as after attending a show or if another horse at the yard has been diagnosed with an infection.

“If you suspect infection, isolate the individual immediately and call your vet.”

Keep jabs current

“Flu vaccination is extremely important. It does not always prevent all clinical signs, but will reduce their severity — limiting the amount of virus a horse can spread and the length of time he spreads it for,” says Fleur, explaining that vaccination on a yard-wide basis is most effective. “Ask your vet about appropriate vaccines for other contagious diseases, such as equine herpes virus [EHV].”

Show common sense

Mixing horses that do not normally have contact ramps up the risk.

“Avoid horse-to-horse or -human contact at shows or events,” says Fleur, who also advises steering clear of communal equipment, grazing areas and water troughs. “Clean and disinfect temporary stabling before use and make sure that neighbouring horses can’t touch each other. Once home, disinfect vehicles and equipment — and monitor your horse for signs of illness over the coming weeks.

“Cancel any forthcoming travel plans if infection is suspected, or diagnosed at the yard.”

Comminicate

Should the worst happen, what next?

“Infection can occur, despite the best efforts,” says Fleur. “Outbreaks can be stressful for all involved, but it’s important to be open and honest with other owners and surrounding yards. Close monitoring of all horses and immediate isolation of infected animals will help to contain disease.”

Ref Horse & Hound; 19 September 2019

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As the nights start drawing it, you may be considering giving your horse stable lighting an overhaul. If your stables are not on mains power, then solar-powered lights are worth considering as an alternative to an expensive and noisy generator. Rechargeable lights are another option.

Top tips for stable lighting

1. If possible use LED lights as they have a long lifespan, are more energy efficient and operate well in cold and hot temperatures. Strip LED lights are very common in stables.

“Due to the way technology has advanced, LED lights are the most popular as they give the cheapest and most uniform lighting,” explains Stuart Bark, managing director of Chapelstone Equestrian Construction.

2. Put a plastic safety cover over all lights so if a horse rears in its stable or the bulb breaks it won’t shatter and cause injury or contaminate the horse’s bedding.

3. Avoid shadowy areas when positioning lights.

4. Ensure all exterior lights are weatherproof.

5. Make sure any internal cabling is in conduits. Don’t leave exposed wires which a horse or rodent could chew on.

“It’s important to keep light switches out of a horse’s way. Often somewhere which is convenient for a human to reach will also be convenient for horses to turn on and off so we tend to place any light switches behind the top stable door so a horse can’t access them,” continues Stuart.

6. Place the consumer unit somewhere like the tack or feed room so it is well away from the horses.

7. If your stable block doesn’t have mains power, solar powered lights can be a good option. If you want to fix solar powered LED lights to the roof, investigate whether the roof will be able to support the weight of the panels and how they will be attached.

8. Installing movement sensor lights outside the stable block or at the entrance to the yard can be useful and also a good safety deterrent.

If you are on mains power, check that your cabling is sufficent to carry the load and the use will not exceed the maximum wattage. You should factor in other items such as kettles, cookers or hay steamers that will be using the electricity. The distance the electricity needs to travel also needs to be looked at.

“Electricity is like water, the further it needs to go the wider the cable will need to be,” says Stuart.

Always ensure you use a qualified electrician so all work is carried out professionally and to the required safety standard.

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Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

An ex-racehorse was left fighting for his life after thieves stole his stable and left a large quantity of feed within his reach.

Crooks dismantled and stole a block of three stables, plus a neighbouring field shelter, from a farmer’s field in Lincolnshire overnight on 22 to 23 November.

They corralled the horses and tipped out three full bags of feed into their field, which included a sack of feed that is designed to be soaked prior to feeding.

Owner Sally Bentley’s daughter, Tasha, discovered the scene of destruction when she went to care for the horses on Friday (23 November) morning.

“She thought maybe there had been a plane crash as there was so much debris and rubbish everywhere,” Mrs Bentley told H&H.

“They have taken all the timber and the metal skids [the stables were sitting on] and left nails everywhere — it was a scene of devastation.”

When the pair saw the feed had been tipped within reach of their three ex-racehorses, Mrs Bentley immediately called her vet, Harriet Thorpe from Hormann Equine.

Mrs Bentley’s five-year-old thoroughbred, Magical Lasso (“Michael”) was showing signs of distress and the vet put him on a drip.

Later that afternoon, his condition worsened and the horse was admitted to Oakham Veterinary Hospital as they were concerned he was at risk from potential colic, laminitis and sepsis.

“He has thankfully pulled through,” she said. “He was in a critical condition on Friday and Saturday, then in the early hours of Saturday morning he turned a corner.”

The horse is now recovering at home and Mrs Bentley said she is “eternally grateful” to Harriet and the team at Oakham.

“He is the sweetest, kindest horse,” she said.

“Last Saturday he finished in the top three in the Retraining of Racehorses Heart awards; this Saturday he was fighting for his life.”

The other two horses, 22-year-old retired former racehorse Yann’s and eight-year-old ex-hurdler Solway Storm, were unharmed.

Mrs Bentley said she wants others to be aware of what happened so they can protect their property and for the thieves to understand of the consequences of their actions on innocent animals.

Article continues below…

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Farms and outbuildings will be particularly vulnerable when the clocks go back and the evenings get darker and longer, providing

“We worked so hard for this, we are just ordinary people,” she said, adding the support they have received in the wake of the theft has been fantastic.

“I don’t think they ever intended to harm the horses, I think they wanted to distract them.

“I wouldn’t want anyone else to go through what we have — I just want everyone to be aware; [stables] are the last thing I would think would be stolen.”

Police have been informed and are making enquiries.

A spokesman for Lincolnshire Police said: “At 8.04am on 23 November we received a report of a theft of a shelter and three stables from a field in North Scarle. It is believed these were taken overnight.

“Anyone with any information should call 101 – [quoting] reference number 71 of 23 November 2018.”

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The owner of a pony who was ridden and attacked by a mystery man in the middle of the night said she “can’t describe the emotions” she has experienced.

Liz Jackson arrived at the small livery yard she owns in in Marton, Blackpool, on 17 October to find a gate open. Checking her CCTV, she saw a man had been riding her 11.2hh part-bred Welsh section A, Lenny, at 1.30am.

“I was shocked to high heavens to see a man come on to the yard from the back entrance, Liz told H&H. “He made a beeline for Lenny, who’s the smallest on the yard. He climbed over the stable door, and you can’t see what he got up to in there for about 10 minutes, but the next minute, he’s riding him out of the stable and round the yard.

“He rode him round and got on and off him about five times, then took him to the field and rode him round that. He then got off him, climbed over the fencing and walked away down the main road.

“I phoned the police, who arrived in 45 minutes, but they said they don’t know if a crime has been committed because you don’t know if the pony has suffered as a consequence.”

Liz who has posted CCTV footage on Facebook in attempt to find the man, said further distressing scenes, which she has not shared, show the man “punching, kneeing, and kicking” Lenny, who can be seen rearing as a result.

“No pony or horse should ever experience that, he is the sweetest kindest pony; he’s looked after my daughter in every situation,” Liz said. “I wish in hindsight that he had been a typical pony with attitude but he’s not.”

Liz said Lenny spent the day lying down in the field and recovering with his herd but since the incident, he has been headshy.

“He’s a trusting little man and I’ve been grooming him and making sure he is ok in himself but it became very apparent he’s very nervous,” said Liz.

Since the incident Liz has installed sensor lighting and is setting up cameras that will send an alarm if there is movement on the yard.

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“I built my yard four years ago, and to my knowledge everything has always been fine but if he’d put the pony back I would have been none the wiser.

“I’m all right now but I just kept bursting into tears afterwards, it’s been so shocking. I’ve never experienced anything like it; I just can’t describe the emotions I’ve gone through,” she said.

A spokesman for Lancashire Police confirmed the force had been called to the yard, adding: “Following investigation no offences were disclosed.”

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Thieves targeting yards are going for a quick fix — items that can be stolen then sold on easily. But there are simple steps you can take to help deter a thief from breaking into your property.

Examine it from a thief’s perspective — what areas of weakness could they exploit? Padlocked doors and solid iron security bars on your windows can be effective, however check that they are set in something stronger than a wooden frame.

And your neighbours can be a useful extra pair of eyes — make sure they have a contact number for you if they see anything suspicious.

10 ways to thwart a thief

1. Thieves will normally watch the yard before striking. Make sure you vary your timetable to make the yard look busy at all times.

2. Look at your yard for weak spots. Try to ensure that the exterior, especially around windows and doors, is brick and not wood.

3. Ensure your gate cannot be simply lifted off by reversing the top hinge, or welding a plate over it.

4. Make sure valuable items and wheelbarrows, which are designed to carry heavy objects, are locked away out of sight

5. Put plenty of signs up highlighting the fact that there is a security system in place, that all dogs (preferably more ferocious than a dachshund) are on the premises at all times.

Continued below…

9 types of people you’ll find on a livery yard

There are certain types of people that seem to crop up on every livery yard — from the know it

6. Make friends with your neighbours, they may spot someone suspicious and be able to help you if the alarm is tripped.

7. Consider leaving security lighting on overnight to act as a deterrent, especially the route from the road to the tackroom.

8. Windows are often used as a point of access; fit solid iron bars no more than 7″ apart behind them.

9. Do not mark which door leads to the tackroom.

10. Padlocks should be of a close-shackled variety to help protect against bolt cutters.

Picture credit: Mark Butler Dressage

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Kendal police are warning the public to make sure stables and sheds are secure after a spate of burglaries in the area.

Ten saddles were stolen from a private rural yard at Birkrigg Park, Stainton, Cumbria between midnight and 6.30am on Wednesday 3 December.

The burglars accessed the yard through unsecured gates and broke into two locked tack rooms.

They took 10 saddles worth more than £6,000. Three of the saddles were valued at £900 each.

The stables were next to the owner’s house.

The burglary follows two others in the Kendal area with thieves stealing a 40inch Sony television from a private house, and a garage broken into.

The police are urging members of the public to increase security, keep everything locked at all times and not leave keys to sheds or stables were they can be easily found.

Inspector Paul Latham, Kendal neighbourhood policing team, said: “Officers are currently investigating a number of burglaries and we ask for anyone with information to get in touch.

“I’d like to take this opportunity to remind those who hold expensive equipment in sheds, garages or stables to be vigilant in their security processes. Security should not be an after-thought, protecting property now can help to prevent heartache in the future. Investing in security alarms can help deter thieves and help give some peace of mind.”

Anyone with information is asked to contact police on 101 and ask to speak to an officer from Kendal Police Station. Alternatively you can contact Crimestoppers on 0800 555 111.

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A new anti-theft initiative is being piloted in Lincolnshire to help prevent horseboxes and trailers being stolen.

Lincolnshire Police intends to supply “stop me” stickers for horseboxes, trailers and farm equipment to encourage the police to pull over the vehicles should they be seen on the roads at night.

The stickers are placed on a vehicle and state “POLICE, 11pm-5am, STOP ME”.

“If the vehicle is being driven between those hours we will stop and check the driver details,” said Gill Finn from Lincolnshire Police.

“We’ve sent out a proposal to all HorseWatch members and so far we’ve had a 100% positive response.”

A pilot is being launched with the first 500 stickers applied for free, with the cost being £4 for two after that.

The scheme comes after a spate of thefts in the area, one as recently as last week.

“The stickers are designed to be tamper-proof, meaning that once they are on the vehicle it is virtually impossible to remove them unless scraped off, which would take some effort. Not something a potential thief would want to do at the point of theft. We aim to roll out the scheme in the next couple of months.”

“This is a great new initiative and I wonder why no one has thought of it before,” said one H&H reader from Stamford.

“Most riders rarely take their horseboxes out in those hours, so with the stickers costing so little they are definitely worth having. They obviously won’t prevent all thefts, but even if they result in one positive outcome then they are worth it.”

This news story was first published in H&H magazine (16 October 2014)

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A stable yard fire is every horse owner’s worst nightmare. But if you are designing a new yard, or planning to make changes to an existing one, fire safety should be high on your list of priorities to avoid a potential disaster.

Shropshire Fire and Rescue Service (SFRS) advises that, where possible, you use steel frames and masonry walls that do not easily ignite, and to keep timber — particularly soft woods — to a minimum. Cement and compacted earth floors are also recommended.

In February last year, a fire wiped out part of Muirmill Equestrian Centre in Ayrshire. Fortunately, all 21 horses were safely evacuated.

“The stone stables saved [the horses’] lives,” yard owner Laura McCabe told H&H.

“The fire took hold very quickly and wooden roof joists and beams in the stables were burning as we were taking the horses out, but all the brick work was fine.”

The fire at Muirmill — which started in the garage and spread to the stables — has made Laura reassess the layout and running of the yard.

“When designing a yard, we would now think about how many fire exits there were,” says Laura.

“A typical horseshoe-shaped yard with only one gate makes you ask how you would get out if the fire was at that point.

“So we’d now consider installing another exit at the back of the yard.”

American barns are a popular style of layout, but can raise safety questions.

Cameron Taylor at SFRS says: “You want to evacuate [an area] as quickly as possible in the event of a fire, and any enclosed area can make the fire situation worse.”

Before the fire at Muirmill, Laura had been planning to put a roof over the existing yard, as it rains a lot in Scotland, but has since changed her mind.

“Even without a roof the smoke was horrific and you couldn’t breathe — with a roof it would have been impossible,” she says.

However, Cameron recognises that American barns can be made a viable option from a safety perspective, by using non-combustible materials and by ensuring there are multiple exits.

Storage of bedding and feed should be high on your list of priorities when designing the yard.

“By their very nature, stables are remote from other buildings and arson is always a risk,” warns SFRS.

Straw, hay and other feed should not be kept in the loft or against the stables — the recommended separation between the building and storage areas is 6m.

“We would never store hay or straw in the yard area [since the fire], if at all possible,” says Laura.

“Shavings don’t burn well, but the plastic all melted and so 40 bales ended up in a huge pile.”

Cameron adds: “It is very important that you resist the temptation of using empty stables to store feed and bedding — you are just adding fuel for a fire.”

The positioning and maintenance of electrical equipment is also critical.

Wiring should be protected from being chewed by horses or vermin, and kept away from water sources.

Fire safety will be high on the priority list of any stable manufacturer you contact. Monarch Equestrian offers free onsite visits to discuss all aspects of stable design.

“All our stables are galvanized steel constructions with either hardwood, bamboo or plastic in-fills — all of which are not easily combustible,” says Barbara Fill at Monarch.

“Unfortunately, [fire safety] is not something many people consider, unless forced to by planning authorities.

“But hopefully the publicity of some of the tragic accidents will have made people think about their arrangements.”

Contact your local fire service for more advice.

Read more about stable fires

This article was first published in Horse & Hound magazine (28 December 2013)

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Q: I have heard it mentioned on the radio that there have been changes to fire legislation. Please could you tell me what the changes are and how they might affect the horse industry, including my own riding school and livery yard?

A: Fire legislation for England and Wales changed on 1 October, with Scotland following later, when a new law, called The Regulatory Reform (Fire Safety) Order 2005 came into force.

To find out how this legislation will affect the horse industry, we spoke to Harry Paviour, fire advisor to The British Horse Society. He explained that the philosophy behind the changes is to pass responsibility for adequate standards of fire safety from enforcing authorities to the occupier/owner of premises. They will be required to adopt a risk assessment based approach to fire safety.

He said: “Owners and proprietors of equine establishments including riding schools, livery yards and agricultural and equine colleges will have to identify and demonstrate to the enforcing authorities how they will manage the risk of a fire at their stables, including identifying all the appropriate fire safety measures associated with their business. Owners and proprietors should also assess the potential for their stables to be targeted in an arson attack.

“All stables will be required to carry out a fire risk assessment of all the buildings, including the outside areas within the confines of the stable’s yard and all residential accommodation located on the site. They must also show the enforcing authority they have put into place a review and monitoring procedure for their fire risk assessment — the risk assessment must be on-going.”

It will affect more riding establishments than the current law, which only applies to “workplaces”.

“The legislation will involve every activity within the equine industry, regardless of whether the stable is operated for business or pleasure. Although private stables may not be covered, owners of these will still have a ‘duty of care’ to visitors, such as the farriers and vets. Show organisers will also need to comply with the new legislation.”

Install a burglar alarm. Aside from the traditional loud ring, there are now alarms available which can let you know by phone call, text message or email that the alarm has been activated. Some will even call your local police station.

Make sure that there are at least two people, including yourself, who know the pin code or hold a key to your alarm. You will draw attention to the fact the yard is unattended if the alarm is ringing for a long period.

Install security lights. These come in a wide variety and are relatively easy to install.

Remember that burglars love door locks they can “pop” quietly, rather than breaking a door down and risking being heard. A professional locksmith or lock company will advise you on the best sort of lock to use, taking into consideration the type of door you wish to secure. They will also install locks for you.

If you are planning to fit your own lock, make sure you get the most effective for your budget. If you have a weak, old or unsuitable door, think about replacing it. All the locks in the world will not help if your door has been rotting away for the past 20yr.

Choose your padlock carefully. If you have an inexpensive padlock it is likely that a burglar will either be able to force it open or cut through the shackle. Close-shackled padlocks make it more difficult to get a good enough grip with a bolt cutter to break the lock. There are padlocks available that are made from reinforced materials that resist cutting or sawing.

If you go for a padlock with a combination code, make sure that someone jiggling the lock around cannot easily detect the code. Don’t use obvious codes that a thief could guess, such as your birth date.

Use chains to secure moveable objects such as tack, trailers and yard equipment. Reinforced ones are available but will be more expensive.

Don’t forget to protect your trailer and lorry. Wheel clamps are useful and some are even insurance-approved; fitting an alarm will help alert anybody on or near the lorry that a theft is possibly in progress; coupling locks will prevent trailers from being hitched, though some thieves will use chains to tow trailers, and immobilisers or battery isolators will make it difficult to start an engine.

Closed circuit television can help police identify any intruders on your property and, if the suspect is caught, may be used as evidence at a trial. Burglars know this; so put up warning signs alerting people to the fact you have CCTV installed.

Labelling items with security pens can deter a would-be thief. You can label tack, rugs, carriages, yard tools, feeds bins and so on with indelible or ultra-violet marker pens. Larger items such as trailers and horseboxes will benefit from being labelled on their roofs, especially if a police helicopter spots the vehicle. Your home postcode is the most common label to use.

As an extra deterrent, put up a warning sign to say that your property is security labelled.

Freeze-marking is a common way of security marking your horse. But if you buy a horse with a freeze-mark, make sure that your name is registered as the new owner.

Hoof-branding irons can be bought for use by a trained professional; the mark branded on the hoof (usually a postcode) takes several months to grow out. You

buy the branding irons and your farrier can redo the brands as and when required.

Microchipping is also a popular way of identifying the owner of a horse. Again, make sure you register as the owner of any microchipped horse you buy.

With all of the methods that involve “marking” your horse, it is wise to alert people that these horses are marked and can be identified as yours.

Don’t discount how much your dog can deter a potential burglar. A burglar doesn’t know whether the dog is friendly, if it will bark, or even if there are more dogs on the yard. For those without a dog, doorbells that trigger a “bark” recording may convince some that you do own one.

Try to make sure that there is always a person on site, making this obvious to anyone passing by. The thought of someone being able to pick up the phone and call the police could make thieves think twce about breaking in. If you can’t have someone on site all the time, tell a trusted neighbour or friend to keep a lookout for anything suspicious.

Check all the access routes to your yard, boxes and trailers. Is there an easy way for someone to slip in and out undetected? If so, make it more difficult. Is there a dark area of the yard for someone to hide in? If the answer is yes, fit a security light.

Make sure you are adequately covered by insurance. Check that you have met all the security requirements on your policy and that your premium payments or policy have not lapsed.

These useful tips were first published in Horse & Hound (2 and 9 December, ’04)

The horrors of a fire breaking out in a yard is a realistic fear for many yard managers and co-operation between yards and the Fire and Rescue Services is the most effective way of reducing the risk of fire at equestrian establishments.

This was the message to come out of a recent open day at the Telford Fire Station, which the British Horse Society was invited to attend.

BHS spokeswoman Wendy Peckham explains: “All riding schools and livery yards should contact their local fire station who will then come out to the yard and carry out a risk assessment.”

The fire service will be able to advise on matters such as:

• where sand-buckets and fire extinguishers should be placed
• what signs should be displayed in yards
• the importance of the availability of water and water buckets

In turn staff from the yard can give information to the service such as:

• areas where horses may be in most danger in the event of fire
• safe areas the horses can be moved to
• where headcollars can be found
• contact numbers for owners and staff

It is also useful to provide a map reference for the yard so that the service can plan the quickest route in the event of an emergency.

Fire service procedures do vary from county to county, for example some services would rather hold a plan of the yard at the station while others would rather a plan was displayed on site. However, Wendy says that the fire service is always prepared to visit yards and discuss safety precautions. “They are always very willing to come out and help,” she says.

• To locate your local fire station visit www.london-fire.gov.uk, which includes links to regional fire brigades throughout the UK.

While any yard is potentially at risk from thieves, premises that have been broken into before are likely to be targeted again as the thief is already familiar with the owner’s movements, the security measures in place, and the layout of the site.

It may come as a shock to find out just how much thieves know about you before they strike. The following warning, from Horsewatch UK, comes straight from the mouth of a practised horse thief:

“First, the yard and neighbours will be watched for up to a month, so that your daily routine is known. Thieves will visit the yard several times, either just walking about until they are challenged, or perhaps posing as a bogus owner looking for livery.

“Security systems will be checked and triggered, and your response timed. Escape routes are planned carefully to ensure minimum noise, and often prepared in advance, especially when horses are the intended target.

“Fences may be cut and replaced to look solid; gate hinges are loosened. Markers, such as bags tied to a hedge, are used to indicate the weak spot, or where stolen items await collection.

“Women and children test to see if horses are easy to catch — titbits may be doped. Big vans, or freezer and removal lorries are ideal vehicles for thieves. Within 24 hours, a stolen horse can be on the continent.”

Think like a thief

To minimise your chances of becoming a victim of thieves, you don’t necessarily need lots of money — just common sense.

1. Avoid routine and habit: whether it’s the time you visit the yard or the spot on which you park your vehicles, keep the thieves guessing.

2. Be suspicious: of people and vehicles, no matter how innocent they seem. People who are genuine will not mind being questioned. Note the personal characteristics of anyone you don’t recognise and jot down any registration numbers. Pass the details on to your local police crime reduction unit and alert your neighbours.

3. Think before you speak: innocent occurrences such as livery vacancies or tack for sale are also invitations to thieves who want to check out your yard. Don’t reveal too much information and ask plenty of questions yourself to assess the real reason for their interest.

4. Seek security advice: ask your local crime prevention officer or Horsewatch UK co-ordinator to visit your yard and make recommendations.

5. Safety in numbers: link up with neighbours, other owners and Horsewatch UK so you can share information about security advice or suspicious goings-on.

For more advice visit:

• www.soldsecure.com
• www.thatcham.org
• www.ukhorsewatch.org.uk

This feature was first published in HORSE magazine

Only a fraction of stable fires are caused by arson. The majority are accidental – with all that wood, hay and straw around, no yard will ever be fire resistant.

However, you can keep the risk of accidental fire to a minimum by ensuring your yard carries out these straightforward and common sense preventative measures:

• Install smoke detector alarms and service them regularly
• Ensure that fire extinguishers work and are easily accessible
• A hose pipe, ideally attached to a reel, should be left permanently connected to the mains water supply. It should be long enough to reach all the buildings and be regularly tested for leaks
• Display ‘no smoking’ signs in prominent places and ensure they’re enforced
• Make sure everyone on the yard knows the fire drill. If you haven’t practised one for a while, set a date now. The best time is when new staff or liveries join the yard
• Keep your yard’s exits free from obstruction at all times
• Store hay, straw and muck heaps a safe distance from stables
• Sweep up odd strands of hay and straw before the farrier arrives – otherwise a spark could ignite them
• If you padlock gates or entrances, make sure everyone knowswhere the spare key or keys are kept in case of an emergency.
• NEVER allow bonfires or fireworks near barns and stables – sparks can be carried a fair distance by the wind
• Have emergency lighting fitted, if possible. Otherwise, keep heavy-duty torches and unused batteries in an obvious place
• Fit a modern electricity system, fuse box and circuit breakers
• All cabling should be PVC-covered and waterproof, and kept away from horses
• If inflammable materials like petrol, paint or paraffin must be stored on the premises, make sure they are housed as far away from the yard as possible. Leaving them in passageways or adjoining stables increases the risk of spontaneous combustion
• If there is no telephone line into your yard, make arrangements for a mobile phone to be kept close at hand – and make sure it’s battery is charged at all times
• Switches should be water-tight and located outside stables
• Locate master switch panels, transformers, meters and trip switches in a separate building or in a horse- and waterproof cabinet
• Make weekly checks for visible signs of plugs and sockets overheating, loose wires in plugs, cracked plugs and frayed leads
• Inspect electrical items, such as clippers, for safety before use
• When in use, coiled electrical cables create a lot of heat. Don’t allow themto lie in bedding in case short-circuiting occurs.

Don’t forget

• Always keep a headcollar and leadrope close to stabled horses so that the horse can be evacuated safely in the case of a fire.
• Unless there is no alternative, NEVER turn horses loose into the yard. This will cause them to panic further, hindering evacuation and preventing firefighters from tackling the fire effectively. There is also the risk that loose horses could get out on to a road and pose a danger to road users.
• Think about covering stables and outbuildings in intumescent paint which will delay the spread of fire.
• Proprietors of riding schools are required by law to display official ‘Fire Exit’ signs.
• If you keep your horse on a small yard used for ‘domestic’ purposes and would like advice on fire prevention, contact your local community fire safety officer.
• The British Horse Society (BHS) produces a leaflet, Stable Fires, which includes helpful hints and tips on making your yard a safer place. It is available by sending an SAE to: The BHS, Stoneleigh Deer Park, Kenilworth, Warwickshire CV8 2XZ.

In the event of a fire

• Try to stay calm and focused – if you’re not thinking clearly, your judgement is likely to be affected.
• Assess the situation. If you think you can contain the fire yourself, tackle it with hoses, buckets of water and fire extinguishers. If the fire is beyond your control, dial 999 immediately. Give the Fire Service the name and address of the yard and the telephone number you are calling from. Don’t attempt to fight an established fire on your own.
• Lead the horses closest to the fire into a secure field away from the scene. A jacket, old sack or lightweight rug placed over a horse’s face as a blindfold may help to stem his fear. But don’t waste time fitting it.
• Working progressively away from the fire, ensure all the horses have been removed.
• If it is safe to do so and there are no people or animals inside, contain the seat of the fire by shutting all doors and windows.
• Shut all stable doors for two reasons: Firstly, to prevent frightened horses returning to take refuge; and secondly, to help contain the fire.

5 March 2002

With stolen tack on the increase, taking precautions is essential

According to PC Pete Shearer of West Mercia Constabulary there are two basic steps to preventing tack theft.

• “One is to mark it so that it can be traced back to you and identified by a police office to the standard a court requires.
• “The other is to keep it secure. The security of some of the tack rooms I see is only just above pathetic.”PC Shearer started his campaign after two burglaries in his area netted more than £5,000 worth of saddles on the same night.“I quickly found out that everyone in the horse world has either had tack stolen, or knows someone who has,”he says.“But I can’t believe the number of people who seem happy to ride around on £1,000 worth of equipment which, if it disappeared, they would have no hope of it being returned to them.PC Shearer recommends that all equipment should be marked with your postcode in a way that is immediately visible, but does not affect external appearance.Saddles are the most common target, and he recommends marking them on the underside of the sweat flap.“I use a three eighths of an inch (9mm) die stamp. Wet the leather first, and mark it by the seam where it doesn’t get worn. Wetting the leather softens it, and when it dries you get a pristine, clear mark.”Many Horsewatch groups and police forces organise tack stamping sessions; contact your local police station for information.Tack rooms should be kept locked when not in use. Check that the lock matches your insurance company’s requirement, as many stipulate that five-lever locks must be used.Burglar alarms and surveillance equipment may also deter thieves. “Anything which makes a thief’s job more difficult is worth doing,” says PC Shearer, “but the most important thing is to mark your tack.”His research shows that saddles rarely have more than three owners from new. If a marked saddle is sold, the original postcode should be scored through so it is still legible and the new one stamped below it.BETA (British Equestrian Trade Association) has negotiated special rates for its members on Datatag electronic ID tags and scanners.The tiny electronic tags have unique ID numbers and can be inserted into saddles; all Jeffries’ saddles are now sold with these in place.Most saddles have identification numbers stamped on the panels, which should also be recorded by retailers and purchasers.

The estimated cost of tack theft each year is impossible to gauge accurately, although it is estimated that 90% of all recorded crime is property related, and more than £1 million worth of laptops are stolen every week, with saddles being of a similar per item value.

About 50% of policy-holders in general terms underestimate the value of their insured items, with 50% of burgled premises being victims of being targeted a second time.

Without positive and provable means of identification, stolen items can be returned to the thief because ownership cannot be proved.

The most popular tack to be stolen is that which is left vulnerable, and is easy to sell on because it is not readily identifiable, such as saddles, bridles and rugs.

Large items such as horseboxes require more planning to steal, but are also more difficult to dispose of, but because of their intrinsically higher value, they are attractive to a professional thief.

Most common mistakes are leaving the tack in an undefended environment, such as by temporary stables at a show or beside the lorry during a busy day, or in an unlocked tack room.

Occasions such as leaving tack out to dry, or leaving it in an unattended stable are prime candidates for theft.

Any security measures which the owner takes are better than nothing, but if you think where your weak spots are and address them, it’s a good start, but most security measures only protect the items up to the point of theft, not beyond.

Simple security measures for the tack room include good quality windows and doors with the same standard of locks you would employ in your home.

Metal bars across the windows are a good idea, and a simple burglar alarm is very useful, but only if it can be heard. It would be of very little use in a remote stable block.

A common sense approach is what is required,and identifying the weak spots is a good place to start.

This applies all the time whether at a show, riding, or at home.

If security measures are put in place, advertise the fact, without giving specific details of the equipment used.

The deterrent value of warning labels must not be underestimated. If they make the thief go elsewhere they have done their job.

The majority of stolen tack will turn up for sale quickly either at auctions or on social media. If an item is microchipped and then turns up for sale at an auction, it can be scanned with a reader and the chip number checked against the national database. This would prove not only who the owner is, but where and when it was stolen.

Because the entries on a database are time locked this proves ownership to an evidential standard. Microchipping has proved to be extremely effective in asset identification.

Having their horse stolen remains a horse-owners’ greatest fear, but thereare some precautions owners can take to minimise the risk and make their animal less attractive to thieves.

One of the most effective deterants is freezemarking. Detective Inspector David Collings, equine officer for the Hampshire Constabulary, believes it is far more effective than microchipping.

“Because a freezemark is obvious, it provides a much higher level of deterent than a microchip which is not visable.

“Compare identifying a horse to identifying a car. A car without a number plate is a car without an obvious identity despite the fact that it can still be identified by its chassis number.

“Equally an unfreezemarked horse is a horse without an obvious visual identity even if it is microchipped.

“Car number plates can be changed and theives can disguise or hide freezemarks in the short term, but the real freezemark cannot be removed and enables the horse to be much more easily recognisable.”

Act now, before its too late

• Have your horse freezemarked or microchipped and paint the freeze mark clearly on the horse’s rugs.
• Taking photographs of both sides of the horse and from the front and behind willhelp you to prove the horse is yours if it does go missing.
• The photographs should be taken in both the summer and winter as horses can look very different in their hairy winter coat.
• A description chart – such as the one included on your horse’s passport or vacination certificate – can also be used to prove ownership.
• Stabled horse are easier to catch than horse kept at grass. Floodlights that come on when movement is detected can be an effective deterent, especially if the stables are close to dwellings.
• Gates to stable yards and paddocks should be secured with heavy duty chains and padlocks. Reverse the top hindge of the gate to prevent thieves lifting the gate off its hindges to gain access. Check that your fencing is as secure as possible.
• Try to vary the times at which you check the stables and fields each day. This will make it more difficult for the thieves to decide when to strike.
• Enlist the help of people living near your paddocks or stables. They may be willing to report any suspicious people or vehicles to yourself or to the police.
• Contact your local Crime Prevention Office who may be able to give you further advice on how to protect your horse.
• Know the dates of sales within a 250 radius of your stables. Many horse thieves steel the night before a sale so the horse can be passed on quickly.
• Check your insurance – not all equestrian policies include theft, although it can normally be added for a nominal fee.