Every horse gets tense occasionally, but some are more prone to it than others. So what can you do to ensure that your star performer doesn’t lose his cool before he has even entered the arena?

Investigate the cause

Sometimes the cause is obvious — pre-competition nerves or a new experience — but if not, the horse’s reaction needs investigation.

Carrie Humble, founder and director of the Thoroughbred Rehabilitation Centre, where former racehorses are retrained for new careers, says: “See why the horse is upset and what can be done. It can be pain-related, a problem with the tack or lack of confidence in the rider.”

Consider the horse’s personality. Some need to be kept on the move at a show, while others are best left alone.

Lucy Katan, the British Equestrian Federation’s (BEF) grooms’ representative, used to groom for dressage rider Peter Storr and found that his top ride Gambrinus was much calmer when given less attention. “The best thing on show days was to leave him alone as much as possible,” she recalls.

Sarah Shears, groom to show jumper Sarah Lynch has found lunging and loose schooling to be a useful tool.

“When I worked for show jumper Malcolm Pyrah he had a particularly hot horse that I would let out in the indoor school for 20min before loading it on the horsebox to go to a competition,” she explains.

“I might lunge a horse for an hour before it went into the ring. I might then walk it around at nine or 10pm at night to keep it interested and calm, if that had proved the best way to handle it.”

Feeding and stable toys

The horse’s diet should be considered. If you think that food is fuelling the excess energy that may cause a horse to become frustrated or stressed, a change may help.

“I think high-starch diets with a quick energy release have a major effect on a horse’s state of mind,” says Alison Pocklington, groom for eventer Chris Bartle. “Fibre and oil are better and give a slower energy release.”

Toys for horses are a fairly recent phenomenon. Most involve food and are used for extending feeding times and encouraging natural foraging behaviour in stabled horses.

“I like Likit toys and plastic footballs. I also use a slightly more old-fashioned swede on a string,” says the BEF’s Lucy Katan.

Gail Howard is a yard manager for racehorse trainer Mark Johnston and uses footballs or empty plastic containers in the stable for box walkers to play with. Ronnie Dawes, head girl to show jumper Tim Stockdale, also prefers to save some cash and make her own. Plastic bottles filled with stones are a favourite with one of her charges.

Regular routine

Horses are very similar to children in their liking for routine — if you want either to behave well, avoid spontaneity at all costs. For those who compete regularly this is difficult, but it will help if you stick to your usual timings and activities as far as possible.

Alison Pocklington says: “This season, I had a couple of point-to-pointers in and I would try to keep the day as normal as possible when they were going racing. In the morning, they would go on the horse walker as usual. I wouldn’t plait them because it’s not essential for racing and I think plaiting tends to wind them up.”

You should wash and trim your horse in plenty of time — attempting to pull a mane or trim legs on the morning of a competition is bound to cause stress to your horse.

Calming massage

Riders might not think twice about booking a massage if they were feeling tense, but alternative therapies are still not mainstream for horses. Carrie Humble uses Tellington Touch — a therapy that uses circular hand and finger movements on all of the body to increase cell function — and finds it extremely effective. Plus, a Shiatsu therapist visits her yard once a week.

“Shiatsu is a non-invasive treatment that makes the horses calmer, especially those on box rest,” she explains.

Helen Galbraith, Michael Whitaker’s former travelling head groom, uses massage. She found it worked well for Two Step, Michael’s top ride at the time.

“When I was travelling, I’d try to massage Two Step regularly to relax him,” says Helen, who discovered an unusual side-effect to a product used for warming up horses’ muscles.

“We use a magnetic blanket for half an hour or an hour before a competition and many horses do seem to switch off completely when that’s on,” she says.

Rider anxieties

If you’ve had a good look at your horse and found no clues as to its behaviour, maybe it’s time to have a look at yourself. Carrie Humble believes that many behavioural problems begin when the rider is frightened.

“Some 75% of the horses we get don’t come directly from racing; they’ve been bought as riding horses and things have gone very wrong. If the rider backs right off, it all falls apart,” she says.

Another common cause of anxiety in the horse is having a “last-minute merchant” for a rider, who arrives at competitions late then rushes around stressed.

“Getting to the ring early is important, especially with a horse that’s inclined to be tense. They have plenty of time to absorb the atmosphere then,” says Ronnie Dawes.

For competitions, Alison Pocklington advises leaving home 15min earlier than you might think necessary.

“You can get the horse off the lorry, let it have a graze and put it back for a while. If it does get switched on, I would put it back on the lorry rather than fight with it.”

A little thought and organisation can mean the difference between a disaster and an excellent performance. When you’re at home, you still want your horse listening and learning, so it’s worth noting our interviewees’ advice — keep exercise in line with feeding, try to stick to your usual routine and, above all, don’t lose your cool and expect the horse to keep his.

This feature was first published in Horse & Hound (7 July, 05)

Psychology

Horses are creatures of habit. Is there something new on the yard he doesn’t like? Have you changed your feed, stabling, bedding or work programme, moved a new horse on to the yard or changed paddocks? You may be surprised how even little things can upset your horse.

Feeding

If your horse is a little too fizzy for your liking, take a look at his diet. Are you feeding too much quick-release carbohydrate? Talk to a feed company’s helpline about slow-energy feeds.

Supplements

There are many “calmers” available. Some are traditional herbal remedies, while others are based on research and theories about dietary levels of vitamins, minerals and manufactured compounds. If you are competing under rules, make sure that none of the ingredients is banned.

Massage

This can help release tension in the horse’s muscles, but make sure a qualified equine therapist does it. Also, make time to give your horse a good strapping. A quick flick over with a dandy brush may get the surface of the coat looking presentable, but a good thorough grooming will get the blood flowing, making him feel good and, hopefully, taking his mind of any potentially stressful situations.

Toys

These can be useful for a horse who gets stressed because he is bored. There is a wide range available for purchase. Some people prefer to make their own toys by suspending water-filled lemonade bottles or swedes in the stable or on field fencing.

Training

There’s nothing worse than winning your first rosette and your horse rearing up when the sponsor tries to hand over your ribbons. In showing, it can lose you the placing altogether. Condition your horse to accept these situations as non-threatening. If you are not confident about doing this yourself, ask someone to help you.

Voice

Talk to your horse in a low and calming tone if he is getting upset. It will reassure him that you are there and that you are not worried.

Exercise

Turn out, loose-school or ride your horse to get rid of any excess energy he might have before a competition

Travelling

Lots of horses don’t travel well alone. If your horse has this problem, think about finding a companion. A horse who kicks in the horsebox will upset others as well as run up a bill for damage, so try putting covering boots on his back feet to dull the noise and take the “enjoyment” out of it for him. Playing a radio while you are travelling can drown out the noise of passing traffic and can be a relaxing, familiar sound.

Your attitude

Try to stay calm yourself. If your horse is nervous, he will look to you for reassurance. Getting worked up about the fact that your horse is stressed will only reinforce his instinct and make the problem worse. Calmly try to identify and remove whatever is causing the stress

Overall health

Most importantly, ensure that the reason your horse is upset is not because of a veterinary problem that is causing pain and anxiety

This feature was first published in Horse & Hound (7 July, ’05)

Imagine being a horse waiting to go into the show jumping arena at Burghley, the dressage area at the Dutch National Championships or the main ring at HOYS. Crowds of people are staring at you from three sides of the arena, the fourth is blocked in by tradestands. It is really a surprise if the horse starts to feel as nervous as the rider?

Stage fright in horses is very common, according to Joanna Day, remedial trainer and breeder of Pippa Funnell’s event ride Primmore’s Pride. She works mostly with eventers, but estimates that 80% of competition horses suffer from some degree of stage fright that’s bad enough to affect their performance.

For a flight animal such as the horse, going into an arena can feel akin to walking into a trap with no way out. A horse’s natural instinct is to run or to freeze. Mary King’s legendary eventer King William (pictured), dressage rider Ferdi Eilberg’s team horse Arun Tor, and Andrew Hoy’s eventer Swizzle In are just three big names that have suffered with stage fright.

Joanna often works with event horses that won’t go into the cross-country start box, that run away going cross-country or freeze in the dressage or show jumping.

“It’s usually an occasional lack of trust between the horse and rider,” she says. “The horse suddenly feels threatened by his environment and feels he has to take charge of his own safety. He may instinctively try to escape — flight or fight. If that fails, he may ‘freeze’, becoming unresponsive and rigid or even plant himself.

“A horse is more confident if he can see all around him. If his view restricted by seating and tradestands then he can’t see how to get away if he needs to. The pulse and adrenaline then shoots up as the horse thinks he is trapped.

“The worst thing that can happen is the rider becomes aggressive, adding to the horse’s worries, or becomes very passive by not offering any leadership at all or grabbing at the horse when he freezes.

“Training needs to start by asking him to remain quiet and keep his adrenaline low, while accepting gradually increasing levels of energy and activity around him. It can take time because the rider must earn that trust through consistently exhibiting good leadership. Horse and rider need to develop a working partnership like ballroom or ice dancers.”

When faced with a situation at a show when a horse is suffering from nerves, Joanna says there is plenty the rider can do to help.

“Encourage the horse to ‘yield’ by assertively yet sympathetically moving its feet, which helps the rider regain the leadership role. It could be just by riding transitions, circles, leg yielding or shoulder-in to diffuse the tension.”

Kelly Marks, a natural horsemanship practitioner, says it is often easy to blame the horse when really it’s the rider who isn’t breathing and is tense.

“If the rider can be honest and work on his or herself, this can often solve the matter completely.”

But for a horse that does get nervous at shows, Kelly recommends routine.

“Some horses can do with steady long-reining or lunge work on arrival. One horse I know needs to be ridden straight away and then put back in the box to settle and is fine when he’s brought out again. Routines help everyone stay calm, which is essential.”

Loose droppings aren’t nice: anything from “cow pats” to watery slurry means dirty horses and difficult mucking out. In some horses it is rare. In others, just the stress of travel and competition can set them off. In any case, loose droppings are a sign that something’s not right.

Regular loose droppings might mean your horse ahs a particular susceptibility to stress, but sudden onset of a smelly and watery projectile diarrhoea, accompanied by darkened mucous membranes, may be indicative of unexpected stress or disease.

The horse’s digestive system is huge and when full, accounts for about 15% of its total weight. The small and large intestines account for the majority, with the large intestine holding 100 litres of food and water at any one time.

Anything affecting the digestive system affects the general health of the horse. The whole tract is populated with bacteria and other microbes, particularly the hindgut. Upsetting the balance is what causes loose droppings.

In the small intestine, upsetting the balance through stress allows pathogenic bugs such as salmonella to proliferate. In stressed horses, probiotics or prebiotics are sometimes recommended to prevent this “takeover”. Some people report good results, making probiotics or prebiotics a good insurance policy if you have a stressy horse. However, there is actually little scientific proof that they really do work.

The more food you give, the faster it passes through. Horses that are loose on 18lb of hard food per day often improve when the level is dropped to 14lb. In effect what happens here is that more forage is eaten, and this is essential for a healthy digestive system. It acts to “stem the flow”.

Any starch and sugar not digested and absorbed in the small intestine passes undigested into the hindgut and disrupts its normal function. Loose droppings are an early sign that things are wrong. Do something about it before it turns into colic, laminitis or tying up.

Possible causes:

• Check temperature and pulse for signs of fever or illness
• Recent use of antibiotics: these disrupt the internal microbial balance
• Check that your worming programme is up to date
• Think back as to recent changes that may have caused a change in the amount or type of food consumed, i.e. turnout on to a new paddock with more grass or a sudden spurt of grass growth. Recent hard work over and above the horse’s stage of fitness. A new batch of hay or haylage that the horse isn’t eating as well. A sudden weather change such as unexpected frost or thunderstorms.
• Feed to prevent an overload of starch and sugar
• Never give more than 2kg of hard feed at a time
• In high-risk horses, opt for low-starch feeds. Cubes are always lower in starch than mixes
• Of all the starches, starch from maize (corn) is the slowest digested in the small intestine and is the one most likely to overflow into the large intestine. Be wary of feeding large quantities of high-maize diets.
• This feed feature first appeared in Horse& Hound (16 September 2004)

Although often unavoidable, it is not natural for horses to be kept in an enclosed space away from their companions. Some horses are more anxious in the stable than others and it is recognised that most stable vices are a response to management problems.

Cribbing and windsucking seem to relate, at least in part, to a diet of concentrates, while weaving, box-walking and head-nodding occur when the horse is frustrated. It is estimated that around 20,000 horses in the UK weave and 10,000 box-walk. It is still not known how many suffer from other forms of separation distress.

Researchers at the University of Lincoln have been investigating ways of improving the housing of horses for several years. Most recently the university undertook a year-long research project into whether mirrors can help reduce separation anxiety. The research has proven that, when used appropriately, many horses can benefit enormously from this simple intervention.

Initial responses to the mirror

Obviously, if the mirror is to work, the horse must show some interest in the reflection and although some may ignore it, most do not.

In trials, the initial response of horses faced with the mirror varied enormously – some approached it and immediately nose-greeted their reflection, while others made a threat towards it at first. The trials found:

• Many horses are cautious when they first see the reflection and may nicker, and for some it can take a couple of weeks to completely accept and benefit from the reflection
• A small minority of horses respond more aggressively to the image and it is not recommended that the mirror be used these cases. The history of these animals usually shows that the horses are naturally unsociable or domineering
• While many owners report an immediate calming influence on their horse, others say the effect is more gradual, taking a month or more to work
• In a small number of cases, the initial comfort provided appears to wear off after a few months

It is important the mirror is positioned in the correct place, so the horse can choose whether to look at its reflection or not. Installing a reflective surface along the whole length of the stable wall is not recommended, as the horse cannot avoid its reflection and may be more stressed as a result.

Similarly, the mirror should not be placed so that the horse sees its reflection close up when feeding – especially on hard feed – as this could encourage aggression and protectiveness around the feed bowl.

The best location for the mirror is just inside the stable door, away from any feeding stations.

Many owners have used the mirror to help reduce stable anxiety, and success has also been reported with horses that suffer from separation anxiety. A typical candidate might be a horse that spends a lot of time in the field, but which becomes agitated when stabled or those which react badly when a close companion is taken away.

A number of owners have also found unexpected secondary effects; for example, one mare that is normally quite noisy when in season was reportedly much calmer once the mirror was installed.

Other owners have observed that their horse’s temperament improved and several owners have said that with the mirror in the stable, their horse is also much easier to tack or rug up. All these reports deserve further investigation.

Several people have used a mirror to help manage a horse on long-term box rest and believe that it helped the horse cope with the confinement. It is also possible that the mirror might reduce the stress of individual box weaning.

The research has found that a mirror is a genuine aid to the management of the stress that can arise when a social animal is restricted from close interaction with others of its kind.

• Vet Dr Daniel Mills BVSc PhD ILTM MRCVS has a PhD in the development of welfare-orientated treatment strategies for equine behavioural problems. He is principal lecturer in behavioural studies and animal welfare at the University of Lincoln and also lectures internationally on equine behaviour and its management.
• This feature was originally published in the April 2004 issue of HORSE magazine. Don’t miss the May issue of HORSE, which is out in the shops tomorrow (1 April), for the chance to win a saddle worth £1,395 plus a one-to-one training session with the current British Open Champion, Robert Whitaker.

When horses become unsettled through fear, discomfort or excess energy, they can become a danger to themselves and those around them. Whether you hold nature or nurture responsible, there are many calming supplements and alternative therapies available to help keep your horse on track.

Herbal help

The average paddock doesn’t have the range of flora horses would once have foraged for, which can result in an unbalance leaving your horse unsettled. You can help restore that balance by supplementing his diet with herbs.

Herbs are natural remedies derived from roots, leaves, seeds, stems, flowers, or sometimes the whole plant, which can be added to your horse’s feed. Each herb has unique properties that affect the body in different ways.

“Herbs divide into different groups – alteratives, diuretics, demulcents, nervines and astringents,” says Ellen Collinson, a leading herbalist and iridolgoist who has developed a range of powerful herbal formulations called Equiherbs.

“As long as the problem is only one oftemperament, nervines and a demulcent are most appropriate. But people must realise the effect of herbs is not going to kick in inside 24hrs. It will take a while to get into the system.”

Bach Flower Remedies, formulated in the 1930s, contain the essence of flowers, trees and shrubs that restores emotional balance. Each remedy is directed at a particular state of being, so your type of horse and his circumstances will affect which is most suitable. Rescue Remedy, a comforter containing essence of cherry plum, clematis, impatiens, rock rose and star of Bethlehem, is the company’s biggest seller.

Choosing the right herb

Watch what plants your horse dives for when out hacking. Although you may think he is just being greedy, he could be trying to self-medicate. A stressed horse will head for camomile or meadow sweet, both of which have calming properties, while gastric problems will send him in search of cow parsley.

There are many herbal supplements on the market that combine a number of natural ingredients. Whether you use single herbs or a combination depends on your horse’s needs. Whatever your choice, it is vital you understand what you are giving and why.

Hilary Self of Hilton Herbs emphasises the importance of establishing why your horse is stressed before you attempt to treat him: “Herbs can’t be used as a quick fix,” she explains. “You have to get to the root of the problem and then think about what the horse needs.”

Some compound feeds contain herbs to aid wellbeing. Herbal Quiet Mix, from Allen & Page, for example, includes mint, garlic, clover and nettle that ‘may help with healing, respiratory problems and digestion’.

Sophie Edwards, a nutritionist at Allen & Page, explains the benefits of their herbal feeds: “We don’t use herbs with a sedative effect, so they won’t actively calm the horse, but the feed acts as a general tonic and aid to digestion,” she explains.

Assessing the cause of stress

Examine your horse’s routine before investing your money in therapies.

Environment: In an ideal world, horses would spend most of their time outside grazing, but this isn’t always possible. As a result, they may spend too much time in their stable and can become bored and stressed. Couple this with the tension of competition and a hectic stableyard and it’s hardly surprising many horses display behavioural problems.

If your horse is grass-kept but still unhappy, then look at the location of his field (for example, is it near a busy road?) and the behaviour of his companions. Separating geldings and mares can achieve a more relaxed environment.

Feeding factors: Horses are designed to eat fibre, which provides a slow but constant release of energy. In contrast, cereals give a quick burst of energy. Horses may show signs of tension or anxiety as they try to use up this excess energy. Combat this by feeding less cereal or by increasing exercise levels.

The handler’s role: Never underestimate the importance of the handler’s role in the mental wellbeing of a horse. A nervous handler will make a timid horse more spooky while a bold horse may take advantage.

“The handler must establish himself as someone the horse can trust, or he’ll constantly be on the look-out for danger,” says Lesley Skipper.

The way you ride can also have a part to play. An unnecessarily strong riding may make your horse feel trapped, causing himto bolt or rear, while a sloppy riding technique can make a horse nervous or spooky.

The key to the success of alternative medicine is to remove any obstacles to recovery first. Only when a horse is happy in his environment can you begin totackle the source of his problems – if indeed they still exist.

Q: I keep my 15.1hh 11-year-old British Warmblood gelding at a riding school on part livery.

He is very aggressive towards anyone who enters his stable or goes near him and he objects to being groomed, especially with a dandy brush. He has to wear a muzzle to stop him biting me when I groom him and there are bars on the stable door to stop him biting passers-by.

At feeding times he is even more aggressive.He goes out at night with other horses, is stabled during the day and exercised for an hour by the riding school and up to an hour-and-a-half by me each day.

His exercise includes schooling, jumping or hacking. I know he came from a quiet yard and was turned out 24 hours a day. I don’t want him to live out as he loses weight easily and needs to get plenty of bulk food.

I don’t think he bites out of spite. If I smack him he gets more aggressive – I think he does it because he’s afraid and defending himself or being territorial.

I compete him on a regular basis and he is very good natured to other horses and humans at shows.

We do well at shows and I don’t want to sell him. I don’t want to change yards either, because he’s very well cared for where he is. Please help.

A: It sounds as though your gelding is very stressed, which could be one of the main reasons he finds it hard to keep weight on. If you can help him to relax, hopefully he will be able to maintain his weight.

It would also appear that this stress has been going on for a while, so to change your horse will take time, patience and perseverance.

Horses tend to be claustrophobic and being in a stable is unnatural for them. It seems people in your horse’s space makehim anxious, so groom him outside to help break his habitual response.

Muzzling only helps to protect you and does not help cure the problem.

Your horse is not remonstrating for the sake of it when you groom him but is trying to tell you that he dislikes being groomed. You must start listening to him, learn his language and read the signs he gives you.

This dislike could be for one of two reasons:

• He is thin-skinned and grooming hurts. If this is the case don’t use a dandy brush. Invest in a soft-hair body brush or a soft mitt.
• He has so much stress locked up in his body that he cannot cope with the added pressure of grooming.

Horses don’t bite out of spite and I don’t believe it is aggression. Most horses bite people as a last resort, because we have not listened.

Watch out for the swish of the tail, the odd foot lifted or the anxiety lines above the eyes or under the nostrils.

There are relaxation solutions you could try.

First, take your horse into the yard in a headcollar and attach a leadrope to the near-side ring. Ask a friend to clip another leadrope to the off-side ring. Keeping your horse’s head in the middle (don’t keep the tension on) ask him to walk up and down the yard in between you both.

You should both position yourselves to the side and a little in front of your horse. While standing in this double lead position, take a schooling stick and wipe it all over his body imagining you are painting your horse a different colour.

This will stimulate latent neurological endings, giving him a different feeling, and helping to shift tension. It will also help to “ground” and calm him, as you go down the legs and gently tap on the hooves.

Then, I would suggest you “work” your horse’s ears. The ears house hundreds of acupuncture points and by massaging them we can use these energy channels to release tension, alleviate stress and help the body heal itself. Massage the base and work up the flute ending by rubbing the tip of the ear – an anti-stress point – with your thumb and forefinger.

Next work your horse’s mouth. This really does help biters and although it seems daunting for the owner, it is not too bad. Start by rubbing your index finger on the bars of the mouth (where there are no teeth!), then put your middle three middle fingers on top of the tongue and “play piano” on the tongue.

Insert your moistened index finger in between the gums and the top lip and rub from side to side. This has an incredible effect on the limbic system and is the emotional link to the brain.

At first your horse may object to this but if you persevere he will accept it and find relief.He may close his eyes, yawn and let out big sighs – signs the stress is shifting and your techniques are working.

It will take time but if you are patient you can change his behaviour.