Research has shone a light on the wellbeing of therapy horses – as we are reminded that equines should be considered as “active participants, rather than therapeutic tools”.

In a paper published in Animals, researchers reviewed literature on the human-animal therapeutic relationship to understand “both sides of the interaction”.

Lead author Waldemar Grzegorzewski of the University of Rzeszow, Poland, told H&H animal-assisted interventions are “understandably often evaluated in terms of their benefits for people” but that “much less attention” is given to the animals’ experience.

“We introduced the concept of interpretative asymmetry to describe this imbalance. Humans define the purpose, timing and conditions of a therapeutic session and interpret the animal’s behaviour,” said Dr Grzegorzewski.

“The animal cannot explain its experience, so its welfare has to be inferred from behaviour, physiology and context. For us, the important shift is from asking: ‘Does the animal help the person?’ to also asking: ‘What does participation mean for the animal?’”

Dr Grzegorzewski said the conclusion was that animals should be regarded as “active, welfare-sensitive participants rather than therapeutic tools”.

“Human benefit alone cannot tell us whether the animal is experiencing the interaction positively,” he said.

“This is particularly important with horses. A horse that appears compliant or attentive may be comfortable, but calm behaviour should not automatically be interpreted as consent, trust or emotional engagement.”

Dr Grzegorzewski said horse welfare must be treated as an outcome of therapy sessions, not as a condition that allows interventions to take place – and that providers should consider horses as individuals and not assume they will respond “equally well” every time. He also highlighted that different therapies carry different physical and emotional demands, so “a horse’s ability to withdraw from the interaction” is necessary.

“Most importantly, the therapeutic success experienced by a human should never be taken as evidence, by itself, that the horse is also experiencing the interaction positively,” he said.

“Behavioural observation is fundamental, but should be interpreted alongside physical and contextual information. It is also important to monitor the same horse over time. A subtle change from normal behaviour may be more informative than simply comparing it with a checklist.”

Horse welfare is an ongoing focus of many UK therapy providers. H&H reported that the Equine Assisted Services Partnership (EASP), whose members include organisations such as the Riding for the Disabled Association (RDA) and HorseWorld, launched new professional standards, which includes considering the effect of therapy on the equine partner (news, 16 July).

Dr Grzegorzewski said standards – providing that they are evidence-based and updated as our understanding develops – are “valuable” and that work by organisations such as EASP is “very relevant”.

He added that future studies would be useful to consider equine behavioural ethograms and physiological indicators and long-term effects.

“The question should not be whether equine-assisted interventions work. We need to establish under what conditions they work while maintaining or enhancing the welfare of the horse,” he said.

RDA chief executive Michael Bishop told H&H this research “reinforces the importance” of the sector continuing to learn and evolve.

“At RDA, we see the horse as an active partner, whose physical, behavioural and emotional wellbeing must be considered alongside the outcomes for people,” he said.

“Horses have an extraordinary ability to transform lives, and if they are to continue playing such an important role, we have to put their welfare at the heart of how we work with them. This reflects the approach we are taking at RDA, where equine welfare is fundamental, and we are committed to continually developing our practice.”

EASP chair Celia Grummitt told H&H the organisation welcomes this research and said the need to truly understand equine wellbeing “cannot be overstated”.

“It must be an essential part when horses interact with people whether it be assisted learning, mental or physical therapies or wellbeing,” said Dr Grummitt.

“EASP places huge importance on equine welfare when assessing providers who wish to be approved on the Human Equine Interaction Register and use the kitemark”.

• To stay up to date with all the breaking news from major shows throughout 2026, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

Where does the UK auction market stand against its European counterparts?

In part three of a series investigating the current UK horse sales market, H&H considers the sport horse auction picture.

In the UK, there are established auctions for foals and sport horses, but on a small scale compared to Europe – to which many UK buyers still turn. Caroline Ironside of MFS Studfarm in north Scotland believes buyers have “confidence in the established European system”.

“What I think sometimes gets overlooked is the environment these foals are being sold in. Some of the best foal auctions in Europe are held alongside major international events,” she told H&H.

“If you're at the World Breeding Championships for young dressage horses, you’ve already got the right audience; breeders, owners, riders and investors who have travelled specifically to look at top horses. The marketing is already done. The buyers have confidence in the studbooks, auction houses and in what they're purchasing.”

Caroline added that the UK has some “excellent” auction outlets, particularly for showjumping, such as Bolesworth and The Billy Stud, but she said dressage options are limited.

“Various people have tried dressage foal auctions over the years, but they never seem to gain the momentum seen on the Continent,” she said.

The 2026 Bolesworth Elite Auction, for showjumpers, included three-year-olds this year and final prices ranged from £11,000 to the top lot at £39,000. Bolesworth managing director Nina Barbour told H&H the UK auction industry is “still small, but in a good place from a showjumping point of view”.

“You’ve got good reputable people running auctions that are in touch with the industry,” she said, but added that ridden auctions are a tougher market.

“I think it remains difficult if you don’t have a set-up like The Billy Stud to do ridden auctions. Generally, and for no particular reason, confidence is low in that area, and I think it’s a harder environment to sell in, having dipped our toe into the water before.

“If they don’t sell, there is a risk it sort of marks their card a bit, so it’s hard to get sellers to put their best ones in. Whereas if they’re foals or yearlings, people have a much more relaxed mentality about it and everybody’s on a level playing field.”

The Billy Stud has been running auctions since 2017, which attract buyers from across the globe. Roger McCrea of The Billy Stud told H&H the challenge lies in securing UK interest.

“It’s funny because in my experience, UK buyers are nearly always happier buying from European auctions, rather than the other way round. Somehow we have to change that mentality,” said Roger, adding that he believes part of this is down to habit.

“Years ago, it was easy to pop to Europe, look at horses and bring them back. Now you’ve got import tax, and this is the bit that sort of baffles me; UK buyers should be looking here. British-bred horses for me are showing better now than their European counterparts in age classes. You’ve got people working hard and doing very well here, not just The Billy Stud but people like Jake Saywell and his team.”

In terms of prices, Roger said they have “levelled off” since Covid, when auctions became particularly popular. The 2026 spring Billy auction prices ranged from £12,000 to £110,000, but prices abroad still tend to be stronger.

“I genuinely don’t know why, but everything is a work in progress,” said Roger.

“We are selling horses in our upcoming auction that have either been at the young horse World Championships or the British young horse championships, and done very well. It’s showing people we’re putting horses in, but those horses still have to reflect their value, and that’s going to be interesting for us to watch.”

H&H has long reported on record-breaking European sales. Last year, C-Bra Van Het Bokt became the most expensive jumping foal sold through the Flanders auction at €402,000 (£350,916). In September, an eight-year-old mare by Toulon, Tabea W Z, broke the Dutch Sport Horse Sales record when she sold for €1.28m.

Nina said global demand for top showjumpers has increased.

“Some of these opportunities abroad are pretty exceptional. The European horses tend to, or historically have, the depth of bloodlines. What really puts value on a foal is when the mother has been consistently producing top horses,” she said.

“There are many broodmares in Europe that have multiple 1.60m grand prix horses competing, so when there’s an opportunity to buy progeny or an embryo from a mare like that, they have a much higher value because it’s a very special opportunity.”

Showjumper Polly Shaw has bought multiple horses via The Billy Stud and British Performance Horse Auction (BPH Auction).

“You’ve got these good horses on your doorstep. Why travel abroad when you’ve got a good selection in the UK? Plus, you’re not paying all the extra costs to get them here from the EU,” Polly told H&H.

“Over the years, horse prices have gone up, but everything has gone up. I’ve always been happy to pay what I have for them and I’ve come away thinking I’ve done well.”

Auctions are not just for professionals – The Billy Stud counts amateurs among its buyers, as does BPH Auction, founded by Danny Dunne and James Wilson in 2021 as a “platform for British breeders to sell their foals”. Jake Saywell joined the team and they now host sales for foals, two- and three-year-olds and ridden young horses.

“Buyer-wise we have all sorts – amateurs, five-star riders, horses have gone to America and Sweden,” Danny told H&H.

“The foals might not be as expensive as some at Bolesworth or the EU market, but you’re getting good value for money. I think people assume the grass is greener going to the EU – there’s amazing shows and facilities, but not every horse is amazing.”

Danny added that there are benefits for amateurs buying from an auction.

“With the ridden auction, you can come and try five to 10 horses, all with vettings, in one place. With the price of vettings and X-rays, it makes a difference,” he said.

Ross Hill Sport Horse Auctions was new for 2026. At its first sale of showjumpers and eventers in September, the top lot was a five-year-old eventer sold for £45,000 to Canada. Ross told H&H he set up the business as he believed there was a gap in the UK market for a regular online auction. The next sale is 7–10 November, then Ross plans to hold a dressage auction shortly afterwards.

“Abroad, they’ve got auctions every month,” he said. “When selling online through a single platform, the reach can be very limited, but through an auction you’re reaching a wider network of people. Our auctions are open to everybody, whether you’re an amateur or professional rider.

“We’ve invested in the marketing and auction system, there’s all the videos, photos and vet reports. Everything is transparent for the buyer and it’s very similar to how they do things abroad.”

In Ireland, a notable auction for event horses popular among professionals is the long-standing annual Goresbridge Go for Gold sale. In 2025, Goresbridge reported “a further increase in averages across every age group” and a clearance of 83%. The average price for three-year-olds was €22,942 (£19,378) and €38,090 for four-year-olds.

Monbeg Sport Horses had the top lot last year, a four-year-old sold for €90,000 – but Monbeg’s Marti Rudd told H&H their other four-year-olds made below the average.

“We had a five-year-old that made €50,000 which was a bit under what we estimated, but it really depends who’s there on the day and whether they like the horse,” Marti said.“We’ve been lucky, we’ve topped the sales a few times. As far as deciding which ones go, when we buy a horse we would always think, ‘That’s good enough to go to a special sale’ – we probably wouldn’t buy one we didn’t think was. From there, it’s up to the selectors which ones get it.

“The reason we target the sales is purely a time factor. We have three small kids and it’s a lot easier to have seven horses all sold in a week than trying to organise childcare around private sales. The rest of our time can be spent quietly producing them.”

Have you bought a horse from an auction? Share your thoughts with us. Write to hhletters@futurenet.com, including your name, nearest town and county, for the chance for your letter to appear in a forthcoming issue of the magazine. Letters may be edited for clarity and length.

• To stay up to date with the latest equestrian news, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

Plan ahead, buy by weight and don’t panic: these are the three headline tips for equestrians sourcing hay as Britain heads into winter.

The latest figures from the British Hay and Straw Merchants’ Association (BHSMA) show the average price per tonne for square big-bale hay is slightly lower compared to this week last year at £106 (£118 in 2025).

The average prices per tonne of small-bale seed hay and meadow hay, defined as “pick-up” size, vary quite considerably and tend to be higher than large square bales. This week in 2025 they were £121 and £106 respectively; the current average is £156 and £152. The BHSMA states that these numbers are collected as historical records and not designed to be used as a price guide.

Last winter was tough for many horse owners, reflected by the spring spike in hay prices this year, which hit an average of £160/tonne for big-bale hay. Experiences of yields and supply varied regionally last year, and following the dry 2026 summer, it is likely this will be the case again. High diesel prices owing to the US/Iran war will likely also have an effect.

British Horse Society (BHS) horse care and welfare director Gemma Stanford told H&H it is “completely understandable” horse owners are worried about hay supplies, “particularly when poor grazing has meant many horses are already relying more heavily on forage”.

“We came into 2026 following a very difficult growing season in 2025, which significantly reduced forage production and depleted much of the reserve stock that would normally provide a buffer,” she said.

“This year’s prolonged dry conditions have put further pressure on grass growth and, while this varies around the country, some producers are reporting yields below a normal year with limited second cuts.”

Ms Stanford advised owners “to plan ahead, but not panic-buy”, take stock of what they have, thinking realistically about what each horse is likely to need through winter, and speak to their usual suppliers early about availability to help save money on their hay bill.

“Now is a good time to look at how much forage is being wasted. Simple changes to the way hay is fed can help make supplies last longer, while still ensuring horses have access to the fibre they need,” she said.

“If hay does become difficult to source, there are other fibre sources that can form part of a horse’s diet. The important thing is not to make sudden substitutions. Speak to an equine nutritionist or your vet about what is appropriate for your individual horse, particularly if they are older, underweight, prone to laminitis or have dental or metabolic issues.”

She also encouraged owners to keep monitoring their horses, and added that fat-scoring regularly can help people spot changes early and adjust diet before weight gain or loss becomes a bigger problem.

“Above all, try to have a plan before you reach the end of your current supply. Knowing how much forage you have, reducing avoidable waste and understanding what alternatives are suitable for your horse will put you in a much stronger position if supplies tighten further over the winter,” she said.

Philip Judge of Philip Judge International, which supplies hay and bedding nationwide and across Europe, echoed the BHS’s advice.

He told H&H that the picture is regional, but that there are no back-up carry-over supplies and very little hay coming from France, owing to the severe European droughts. Imports from further afield will be possible if needed.

He encouraged owners to make contact with and stay loyal to their suppliers, to buy by weight rather than the “Russian roulette” approach of buying by number of bales and to be very cautious of scammers, particularly on social media.

“Production in the UK was more plentiful this year than the previous, but demand is also more plentiful,” he said. “Panic does no good to anybody; it’s a case of thinking about careful planning and alternatives.”

● What are your experiences in terms of the current hay situation? Let us know your thoughts at hhletters@futurenet.com, including your name, nearest town and county, for the chance to have your thoughts published in a future issue of Horse & Hound magazine

• To stay up to date with the latest equestrian news, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

Buyers and sellers are reporting continued demand for true amateur horses – but is there a shortage in supply?

In this second part of a new series investigating the current UK horse sales market, H&H has turned to the amateur and grassroots trade.

In part one, British breeders reported a slow market for sport horse youngstock (news, 1 October), but the amateur market paints a different picture. Social media is flooded with posts from buyers “still searching”.

In autumn 2021, equestrian agent Julia Martin of Kings Hill Equestrian told H&H she predicted a surplus in sport horses and a shortage of the amateur or riding club types – and five years on, she said this is the case.

“During Covid everyone was madly breeding sport horses, but no one was breeding the cobs or the half-breds,” she said. “Demand for these horses is really high, but now there’s a shortage.”

Julia said during the pandemic that prices had doubled – and she confirmed that in 2026, the price of riding club horses and cobs remains high, based on demand.

“A really good riding club horse between eight and 12 years old is easily selling for between £15,000 and £25,000, because you can’t find them,” she said.

“Similarly, there’s a shortage of good family cobs and for one aged eight to 10 that’s doing the job, you can ask £15,000. There seems to be a rise in sharper cobs, so I tend to steer people towards the half-bred Irish Draught or Connemara cross.”

Julia said prices have fallen a little for the younger grassroots eventer.

“For a five- or six-year-old that could go on to do grassroots eventing, I’m selling for about £10,000, whereas five years ago, they were about £15,000 to £18,000,” she said.

In March, Kate Balgowan was returning to horse ownership following an eight-year break while she raised her children. She set out to buy something “safe and sensible” to enjoy as a hobby and hack a couple of times a week.

“My ideal type was an Irish Draught/thoroughbred, something sporty but with a bit of bone, but I only wanted to spend £4,000 and I knew that was not realistic,” she said.

Kate decided to try a former racehorse, having had one previously. She bought 11-year-old Cotswold Prince, who had been retrained for eventing, but was looking for a quieter life.

“You used to be able to pick ex-racehorses up very cheaply, but now even horses off the track are £4,000 or £5,000,” she said, adding that some sellers of these horses feel that if they are advertised too cheaply, they attract buyers who are inexperienced in dealing with them.

Kate paid a reduced price of £1,500 for Cotswold Prince, on the basis of her providing a knowledgeable and loving home.

“The market has changed a lot from when I had horses before. You used to be able to buy a brilliant horse for £5,000, but now, if you don’t have £8,000 to spend on something with a bit of bone, you might as well give up,” she said.

Last year, Tave Wallace searched the UK market for an all-rounder, but ended up buying a green seven-year-old sport horse from Aidan and Anna Kennedy in Ireland for €10,000 (around £8,500).

“I had a maximum budget of £15,000, but I found UK prices really inflated. A friend sent Tonto’s advert, but buying unseen felt a bit of a risk so we flew out to view him, and he has been everything I could have wished for and more,” Tave told H&H.

“If I’d spent my maximum budget, I’d have had nothing left for a saddle and things like that, so even with the transport and import cost, I’ve had a little flexibility.”

UK buyers also continue to look to Ireland for pure and part-bred Connemaras. Kevin Reilly, who sources and produces Connemaras, told H&H he is predominantly selling three- and four-year-olds to the UK and demand has remained at “similar levels” for the last few years.

“UK clients tend to now come with more specific requirements; a lot are looking for solid colours rather than the traditional grey,” said Kevin, adding that overheight geldings are most in demand.
“A good temperament, well handled with a good basic education is a must. Our Connemaras tend to sell mostly to amateur homes and these characteristics are very important.”

Kevin said that although prices can vary, buyers can expect to pay £5,000 upwards for an unbacked three-year-old pure or part-bred Connemara. A quality four-year-old established under saddle can be £8,000-plus.

“Prices have held for quality horses,” said Kevin, adding that almost all of his stock is sold unseen, from video.

“We have a cross-section of clients, who are private customers looking for a nice young horse for a lifetime of fun together in a family environment.”

Breeder Nicole Billington told H&H that in her experience, prices for showjumpers have remained high since the pandemic – but there are challenges around what people expect to get for their money.

“There’s a lot of photo collectors. They want to know every detail and ask for video after video, but then you never hear from them again,” she said.

“I think people can be unrealistic in their capabilities as well, and so I’m very strict in who I sell to.”

Nicole said that buyers can expect to pay around £20,000 to £30,000 for a five-year-old “showing capability” for a keen amateur looking to contest up to 1.30m. Prices for 10-year-olds with experience contesting Foxhunter second rounds can be up to six figures.

Bosanko Sports Horses, which imports youngstock from Holland and Germany predominantly for the professional market, has reported an increase in amateur clients. As reported last week, Bosanko horses can start at £6,000 for a raw, uneducated youngster.

“It’s a real challenge to find a nice quality horse that’s up and going and so we are seeing an increase in people from the amateur side,” Mark Bosanko told H&H, adding that they would always encourage buyers to go and view in person.

“We don’t sugar-coat anything, we call a spade a spade and I think that’s very important to manage people’s expectations.”

Children’s ponies continue to be sought after. Julia Martin reports that a first ridden 12.2hh with a Pony Club record can be in the region of £6,000.

“When you get into the 14.2hhs, it’s a whole different ball game. They still represent anything between £15,000 and £30,000 because numbers are limited and it’s supply and demand,” she says.

Gemma Britton has been struggling to find a 14.2hh confidence-giver, aged eight to 12, for her daughter.

“We’ve seen four or five so far, but we’re still looking. It’s been quite deflating when you travel and it doesn’t work out. I thought I’d get a nice pony for £10,000 to £12,000, but our budget has had to increase,” Gemma told H&H.

Gemma posted a wanted advert on social media setting out her requirements – capable of jumping up to 90cm, safe and sensible, happy to do a bit of everything.

“It’s really hard, I don’t know how people are pricing them,” she said. “I had someone contact me that had one for £30,000. We just don’t have that budget, and I couldn't justify spending it – if you spent that and something goes wrong, where do you start again?”

Tell us your thoughts on the horse sales market. Write to hhletters@futurenet.com, including your name, nearest town and county, for the chance for your letter to appear in a forthcoming issue of the magazine. Letters may be edited for clarity and length.

• To stay up to date with the latest equestrian news, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

Got a handle on everything you need for your first horse?

If you’re about to embark on loaning or buying a horse for the first time, we couldn’t be more excited for you. A horse of your own is a massive commitment, but brings an unrivalled level of joy into your life. Your free time will never be the same again – and you’ll absolutely love it.

Assuming you’ve already got yourself kitted out, you’ll find that horse ownership comes with plenty more decisions to make. From choosing a livery yard to selecting the right type of bedding, and from how much hay to feed to what type of clip to have, there’ll be plenty of umming and ahhing ahead.

As well as management decisions, horses come with a lot of stuff. It’s not as simple as choosing a well-fitting saddle and bridle, fetching your new horse in one of the best leather headcollars and calling it a day!

If you’re a soon-to-be owner grappling with everything you need for your first horse, we’ve listed the absolute essentials for you, with suggestions if you’re keen to invest in some more specialised kit items, too.

The stable

If your horse is going to be spending time in the stable, this is what he’ll need...

Day-to-day life

• headcollar and leadrope
• bedding
• haynets or a slow feeder
• water buckets
• metal tie ring (like this one) for haynets if there isn’t one provided

You can also add the best stable toys, bordeom busters for horses and best salt licks.

Most owners tie their horses to a piece of baling twine (with some strands pulled away and discarded so it’s more easily broken) attached to a metal tie ring, but you might prefer to use a quick release tie (like this one).

If you would like to keep the stable door open while supervising your horse inside, consider whether you might find one of the best stable guards or stall chains useful.

Mucking out tools

• wheelbarrow
• broom
• the right fork, such as a shavings fork (like this one) or pitch fork (like this one) depending on your choice of bedding
• manure scoop (like this one)
• shovel

The tack room

From riding equipment to your grooming kit, here’s what you’ll stash in the tack room...

Riding and training equipment

• saddle
• stirrup leathers and stirrup irons
• the right type of girth to go with your saddle
• bridle – bitted or bitless
• saddle soap for cleaning your leather
• saddle pads
• lunge line
• hi-vis exercise sheet for hacking
• exercise boots, such as brushing boots or overreach boots if needed

You might want to add other types of horse boots, such as tendon boots for jumping or cross-country boots.

There are many training aids that might benefit your horse that you can use when lunging your horse. Some attach to your saddle or bridle and some are complete training systems. At Horse & Hound, we always recommend seeking qualified professional advice and instruction before using any training aid.

Grooming kit

As well as a separate box of equine first aid essentials, you’ll want a comprehensive grooming kit to tackle everyday grooming.

• body brush
• dandy brush
• metal curry comb
• rubber curry comb
• plastic stain removing brush (like this Magic brush)
• mane and tail brush
• mane comb
• face brush
• sponges
• hoof pick
• sweat scraper
• grooming kit bag to hold it all

You can go as far as you like with stocking your grooming kit, with products like mane thinning combs and knives, shedding tools, sheepskin mitts and massage brushes available. You might also want plaiting bands on standby for shows.

Lotions and potions

From washing your horse to essential seasonal topical products, horses need a few lotions and potions as standard – here are our favourites...

• best fly sprays
• best horse shampoos
• best mane and tail detanglers
• best hoof oils
• best equine sun cream

Some equines have specific needs and if this doesn’t feel like it covers everything you need for your first horse, you can go a bit more specialised with your products.

For example, your grey might benefit from a whitening horse shampoo, while busy owners might like to have one of the best dry shampoos for horses on standby, too.

The rug room

Here is everything you need to kit your horse out in all weathers.

Rugs

• no-fill rain sheet
• lightweight turnout (50–150g)
• medium weight turnout (150–250g)
• heavyweight turnout (>250g)
• stable rugs of various weights
• cooler rug
• fly sheet, plus optional waterproof fly rug
• neck covers for turnout and in the stable

It’s important to note that not every horse will need all the types of rugs listed here. For example, my horse is a cob that does groundwork and is usually unclipped in the winter. He has a cooler rug, a fly sheet and two no-fill rainsheets, which I put a 100g, liner in if it’s below 0º for a sustained period. Rugs are expensive and bulky to store, so don’t rush to buy one of everything if your horse doesn’t really need it. Use our horse temperature rugging guide to help you decide.

You may wish to add therapy rugs to your horse’s wardrobe, or a rug for shows and travel. If you plan to go to lots of shows, a lycra hood will help keep your horse clean the night before competing. Some riders like to ride or warm up their horses in an exercise sheet during winter, especially if they are clipped.

If you don’t want to buy lots of individual rugs, you might prefer to use a liner system. These comprise an outer rug with no or a small amount of fill and liners of different weights you can attach to the underside.

Accessories for turnout and travel

• best fly mask
• field-safe headcollar, or a leather one that would break in an emergency
• a pair of best travel boots
• tail guard

If your horse is especially sensitive to flies, you may want to add a pair of the best fly boots to your list. Well fitting turnout boots, though not essential, can also be useful for keeping mud off your horse’s legs.

The feed room

• feed buckets
• bucket covers
• feed bins
• a feed scoop and stirrer
• a stiff brush to scrub buckets with
• a dustpan and brush for sweeping up spills
• a portable luggage scale (like this one) for weighing haynets
• a weigh tape (like this one)
• best horse treats

Extras to consider

The above list covers everything you need for your first horse that’s essential, but you might want to consider investing in other bits of kit to make your life easier, cover all bases or indulge your horse.

• the best clippers if you plan to clip your horse yourself
• electric fencing so you can strip graze or make a pen if you need to
• a massage pad or mitt to support your horse between physio treatments
• a grazing muzzle if your horse is a good-doer
• ice boots for leg cooling
• a solar-powered wifi-free camera for the stable or field
• a portable horse shower if you don’t have a wash bay

How to save money on everything you need for your first horse

Not everything you need for your first horse has to be brand new or full price. Make savings on the things you need by...

• checking your local equestrian centres for second-hand table-top sale events
• looking for second-hand kit on Facebook Marketplace or Vinted
• using second hand online marketplaces, such as The Equine Market
• make use of deals events like Black Friday and Amazon Prime Days – we track the best deals for horse owners so make sure you check horseandhound.co.uk for the biggest savings on products that are worth it

For unlimited access to expert horse care advice, plus the latest product news, buying guides and reviews, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

As a serial cob owner, I have been turning horses away for winter for years. I've turned young, old and horses in work away away during winter for various reasons and it’s been great for them and me – but what does it actually mean?

What is turning horses away for winter?

Turning away is a traditional equine management practice that, simply put, is a period of rest for horses in work. On the surface, it entails turning horses out into pasture for several weeks, frequently (but not always) over winter, for mental and physical rest – the horses are not worked or stabled (except in an emergency) during this period.

What type of horse is turned away?

Most horses who are healthy and in good condition can be turned away for a spell, but they typically sit in one of the following categories:

• Young horses might be turned away to grow and socialise, or at intervals over the early stages of their ridden education for a mental and physical rest
• Horses in work are sometimes turned away usually in the autumn or winter for rest or due to the season’s poor conditions for riding. Polo ponies often go out for winter grazing, while hunters have their rest over the summer
• Horses recovering from injury are sometimes turned away to rest, but this should only be done in line with veterinary advice
• Older or retired horses may be turned away for winter or some are turned away permanently on retirement livery

Essential care considerations when turning horses away

First and foremost, turning horses away for winter isn’t necessarily an easy option. While there will be fewer stables to muck out, horses at grass still require routine and thorough daily care from an knowledgable handler, whether that is you or someone trusted that you employ.

Paddocks also need to be property checked and maintained.

Here are the essentials for turning horses away for winter.

1. An appropriate paddock

Karen Coumbe, Horse & Hound’s vet consultant, advocates turnout with your horse’s usual companions on good grazing.

“Turnout on mud is no good; mud fever can be a huge issue for horses who are out all the time,” she says.

This means horses are best turned away in sizeable fields to reduce congestion and poaching. The fields should consist of good draining land – heavy clay is not ideal.

Intact, good quality horse-appropriate fencing is a must, and any bordering poisonous trees, such as sycamore or oak, should be fenced off to avoid ingestion of acorns or sycamore seeds, the latter of which can lead to atypical myopathy when eaten.

Karen adds that shelter – natural or man-made – is an important consideration, because horses need the option to stand somewhere dry out of the elements.

2. Make the change gradually

“Do not go from full work to turning away overnight,” says Karen. “Make any changes gradually.”

This means slowly decreasing work and increasing turnout, making changes to hard feed over weeks rather than days.

3. A programme of daily checks

Twice daily checks are the minimum standard for horses at grass.

“Every horse should be checked for wounds, lameness and more subtle signs, such as loss of appetite," says Karen, adding that an experienced caregiver is essential for spotting something amiss before illnesses such as colic become critical.

“The paddock must also be checked for hazards and broken fencing.”

She adds that supplementary forage is likely to be essential. It should be placed out of mud to maintain hygiene and reduce waste.

How much hay to feed your horse – and how much concentrate – is down to the individual horse and the nutritional value of their hay. Take into account your horse’s age, any underlying conditions and their body condition score, and seek a nutritionist’s advice.

Karen recommends rugging horses according to the degree of shelter available and their body condition. As a rough horse rugging guide, horses with less than ideal condition benefit from a warmer rug to conserve energy, while minimally rugging overweight horses or good doers in winter can aid weight loss.

“It is also essential to remove any rugs regularly to check underneath,” she adds.

4. Manage the feet

According to Master Farrier Ben Benson AWCF, transitioning to barefoot over the winter can be beneficial for some horses.

“Removing the shoes gives the hoof wall a period without further nail placement, allowing old nail holes and minor splits or defects to grow down. It also removes the possibility of a horse pulling a shoe off and damaging the hoof wall in the process,” he says.

Ben says the transition from shod to barefoot should ideally be planned with the farrier rather than simply allowing the horse to become overdue for shoeing.

“The trim we use when preparing a foot for a shoe can be quite different from the trim we want when a horse is going to remain unshod,” he explains. “If we know in advance that the shoes are coming off, we can manage the previous shoeing cycle with that in mind and preserve useful hoof wall, sole depth and overall foot strength.

“When the shoes come off, I want to retain as much functional foot as possible. We can round the hoof wall to reduce chipping, manage the toe appropriately and, importantly, avoid taking away unnecessary sole. The aim is to leave the horse with enough natural protection to remain comfortable.”

Ben adds that not every horse will cope equally well without shoes.

Horses that may require additional consideration include those with thin or sensitive soles, flatter feet, poor-quality hoof wall, a history of bruising or recurrent foot soreness, or horses that are uncomfortable on firm or stony surfaces.

Regular hoof care remains important throughout winter. Feet should be picked out and checked daily, and horses should remain on an appropriate trimming cycle with a qualified farrier.

“Barefoot doesn’t mean leaving the feet alone,” Ben adds. “They still need monitoring and managing.

“If a horse becomes uncomfortable, we also have plenty of options. Depending on the individual horse, we can use temporary hoof protection, hoof boots, composite materials, glue-on systems, pads or conventional shoeing where necessary.

“The important thing is that the horse remains comfortable and the foot remains functional.”

Ben says turnout conditions also matter. Ideally, horses should have access to:

• a reasonably dry standing area, particularly where gateways and feeding areas become heavily poached
• surfaces that the individual horse can comfortably negotiate
• well-maintained, horse-safe fencing without areas where feet or shoes could become trapped

5. Manage parasites

Karen says best practice for worms and deworming – regular poo picking and performing fecal worm egg counts – still applies while horses are turned away.

“It’s not simple to do with lots of horses out together, but it’s important,” she says.

“Regular dung removal is consistently associated with lower test results when checking for parasites.”

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As British breeders continue to feel the impact of soaring costs, what is the demand for top-level competition horses?

During the pandemic, demand for horses and sales prices rocketed across the board. Some buyers were priced out of the market, but there was a strong feeling from many producers and breeders that horses were finally being sold for what they were worth. H&H has taken a look at the current UK market in a new series, beginning with sport horses.

Kilan Dressage stud breeds around 20 foals a year and owner Eleri Jones told H&H the market is “pretty poor”.

“The demand for ridden horses is probably better than foals, I think because people can see what they’re getting. Livery has gone up, so people are thinking about how much it’s going to cost to keep a foal until it’s ridden,” she said.

Eleri started breeding for amateurs, but has evolved to the professional market. She keeps her foals to be sold as ridden young horses, produced by Luis Principe in Gloucestershire.

“Geographically, it’s much easier to sell them in Gloucestershire than in north Wales – people are more willing to go and see them there. It’s also good to have them out competing; if they win or score well at the nationals, it’s basically a free advertisement,” she said.

Prices for a newly backed Kilan three-year-old typically begin at £35,000.

“If they go to be ridden as four-years-old and they’re really good quality and have clean X-rays, the price will go up from there. Bearing in mind, it costs us as breeders around £20,000 to get them to three-year-olds. If you’re selling them for £15,000 you’re making a loss,” said Eleri, adding that prices have increased since Covid as the stud has become more established.

“That’s not to say that it’s not a tough market. Where we’re at is just trying to produce rideable, trainable horses with good brains. However, I believe there’s always going to be a market for good horses – the riders have to get them from somewhere.

“There are always ups and downs in the market; there are periods when too many horses are being produced, which is what happened during Covid. The minute people stop breeding, there will be a shortage, and then it will go up again.”

Producer and grand prix rider Anna Ross told H&H that advanced dressage horses continue to sell well.

“Our business model is different to what it was before; now I focus on a small number of horses. We keep them longer and sell them at a high level,” she said.

“The last grand prix horse I sold went abroad, and there’s a lot of interest from Asian countries at the moment. Right now people want trained horses, and a more cost-effective way is to buy a horse and put it in training, or have your trainer help you with it.”

John Chambers of Springfield Stud, breeders of event horse Safira who represented Brazil at the Paris Olympics, told H&H he has been struggling to sell youngstock this year.

“I have a nice four-year-old, his sire’s youngstock have done well in the showing field and there’s up to four-star eventing on the dam side, he’s £3,750 and I’ve not had one call. I had a nice three-year-old advertised for £5,000 and no calls,” he said.

“In the UK, the market’s always been slightly fragmented and everyone always thought they could go to Ireland to get a better horse. Brexit came along, but it hasn’t realised the improved sales that as a breeder I’d like to see.

“Looking at professionals, there’s a lot of riders out there that can produce horses but there’s not the depth of owners with £30,000, £40,000, £50,000 to buy those horses,” he said.

Showjumping breeder Danny Dunne of Dunne Sport Horses – whose success stories include five-star horse For Killy – told H&H he has found the market better this year than last.

“We found that last year the cheaper foals, especially in our auction, weren’t selling as well as the more expensive ones. We put that down to hay prices and people thinking that rather than take a chance on a cheaper foal, they’d rather buy from a stallion that they know,” Danny told H&H.

Dunne foals typically range from £5,000 to £15,000-plus. A quality six-year-old with experience can range from £50,000 to £100,000.

“Prices can really vary. Someone else that has done the Lanaken young horse championships might be asking up to £200,000 – and people will pay that,” he said.

“I suppose in showjumping there’s quite a strong correlation between the good stallions and mares and resulting offspring. You can’t guarantee you’re going to have a good horse at the end, but if you do everything right, there’s a strong chance.”

Demand has also remained high for EU and Irish imports. Mark Bosanko of Bosanko Sports Horses told H&H that on average, he sells a horse every day. The Bosankos import horses from Holland and Germany predominantly for the professional market, counting top riders among their client base. Prices can range from £6,000 for a “raw” uneducated horse, up to £50,000, with some exceptions.

“We’ve got a good base of returning clients and producers, and I think that gives us an edge as we’re not looking to produce the horses ourselves usually. Our prices stayed the same during Covid because we weren’t opportunistic. The biggest influence for us has been Brexit rather than Covid,” said Mark.

Mark says that supporting British breeders is important, but he would be unable to meet demand sourcing in the UK.

“Historically, we used to buy over here, but we just couldn’t find the numbers in the quality that we needed. If we could find this, we absolutely would and it would negate all of the complexity and expense that Brexit has brought us. I think the quality is definitely here, there’s no debate about that, but they’re just often not on the market.”

Ireland-based Monbeg Sport Horses, which caters for the professional eventing market, reports continued high demand.

“For the right animal, the top market is very strong and we have a lot of people enquiring. The demand from the UK is about the same as it's always been,” Monbeg co-owner Marti Rudd told H&H.

“I’d say it’s the middle market that’s not really there. I would expect a nice four-year-old that ticks the boxes should be £25,000-plus. I’ve had people in the UK find that too expensive, but the Americans are almost asking, ‘Why so cheap?’. We still get the same amount of enquiries from the UK, but the Americans are getting in there a little bit quicker and are prepared to pay a bit more.”

Tell us your thoughts on the horse sales market. Write to hhletters@futurenet.com, including your name, nearest town and county, for the chance for your letter to appear in a forthcoming issue of the magazine. Letters may be edited for clarity and length.

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Castration of horses and donkeys is the most common surgical procedure in equine veterinary practice performed worldwide. However, there is widespread variation in how the surgery is performed, and in which medications are given pre- and post-operatively.

Elise Rodden MRCVS, a surgical resident at Bell Equine Veterinary Clinic and B&W Equine Hospital, explains: “There is a vast variation used by vets in the methods to geld or castrate a horse, presumably because no one protocol is perfect.

“Certainly, different options are available depending on the clinician’s choice and the exact circumstances. For instance, castration can be performed standing or under general anaesthesia (GA), in a hospital setting or on yards, placing sutures or not, using local anaesthetic or not, or leaving the skin incisions open or closing them.”

What can go wrong during castration?

Although a routine procedure, castration is not risk-free and although most complications are mild, some are serious and can even be fatal. A review undertaken by Elise in 2025 found 17 different reported complications following castration procedures.

“Among the less concerning complications are those that cause no distress to the horse but are a concern for the owner, such as swelling or continued undesirable behaviour, and mild complications that resolve with minimal intervention (oedema or localised infection),” says Elise.

“More seriously, severe and life-threatening complications such as bleeding, prolapsed gut or abdominal infection/inflammation can occur.”

Despite castration being a routine surgical procedure, reported mortality rates are up to 1%.

“Perhaps unsurprisingly, scrotal swelling is the most common problem reported, followed by infection of the surgical site,” adds Elise. “The size at which the scrotal swelling changed from being a normal post-operative finding, which is expected after surgery, to being considered to be a complication varies tremendously.

“Although less common, some of the other observed complications can be more serious if they are severe. These included bleeding and evisceration (when intestine or some abdominal tissue comes out through the open skin incisions), which can be a non-survivable complication.”

The risk of evisceration is thought to be higher for certain breeds, such as draught breeds and standardbreds. A prior history of a scrotal or inguinal hernias would also increase this risk.

“The risk can be minimised by suturing the tunic (which surrounds the testicle and is continuous with the lining of the abdominal cavity) closed once the testicle is removed,” explains Elise. “This prevents any intestines from the abdominal cavity from escaping into the abdomen via the incision at the castration site.

“To place such sutures safely and in a sterile fashion, a GA is recommended, which obviously increases the cost of a routine castration. A more complex procedure in a hospital under GA is more appropriate in these cases.”

Talking in more general terms, Elise says risks can be reduced by “gelding young, and ensuring that the colt is well-handled and castrated in a clean environment.

“Ultimately, the surgical choice should be based on a risk analysis for the individual horse, alongside your vet’s preferred approach and the facilities available, as well as economic factors.”

Why do we castrate colts?

When colts are gelded they can no longer produce large quantities of testosterone, making them easier to handle.

“Testosterone is a driver for sexual behaviour and reproduction,” explains Dr James Crabtree, junior vice president of the British Equine Veterinary Association and an independent vet consultant in equine reproduction and stud medicine.

“Horses are very big animals; colts that are a bit lairy don’t have their minds on the job and can be unpredictable. If you remove that testosterone, you remove that hormonal driving force behind the unwanted behaviour and the potential barrier to onward training.”

After castration, testosterone levels drop very quickly.

“It can be within a few days,” says James. “The reason we talk about not putting a newly castrated colt in with mares isn’t because they are still producing sperm, it’s because they could still have sperm left in the reproductive tract and the behaviour may not change immediately.

“Behaviour isn’t just the hormones; it’s also learned. It will vary according to individuals and environment. If the environment is very stimulating, with a lot going on, the horse may take longer to calm down.”

A further complication is that testosterone isn’t produced only by the testes. Mares also have testosterone, produced by their ovaries and adrenal gland, and a gelding will continue to have very low levels of it.

Is a horse’s growth affected by castration?

As well as being androgenic (responsible for promoting male sexual characteristics), testosterone is also anabolic – that is, responsible for muscle growth. So castration inevitably has a physical impact as well as a behavioural one.

“You can look at lots of different species and see this. For example, bulls are stocky with lots of muscle and bullocks are leaner,” says James. “Of course, that doesn’t mean to say that, with training, you can’t put the muscle mass on a gelding.”

Testosterone also plays a role in bone development as it indirectly helps close the growth plates (the cartilage at the end of the long bone, which fuses upon maturity). If a colt is gelded relatively early, before the plates have closed, the plates can stay open for longer and the gelding may grow taller than if he had been left entire.

These and other factors are taken into account when deciding at what age to geld.

“In racing, some people don’t want to geld too early, as that testosterone might give the horse a competitive advantage,” explains James. “In contrast, some colts’ testicles aren’t fully descended until they’re three years old, which can present a comfort issue for them in training, and which can be resolved by castrating.”

Why can some “coltish” behaviours remain?

Despite the lack of testosterone, some geldings do continue to demonstrate sexual behaviour long-term after castration and James says the reason behind this isn’t fully understood: “It might be remembered, as some geldings were stallions for a time, or learnt or genetically programmed.”

In other cases, it may be because the horse has undescended testicles; that is, they are not in the scrotum.

“If a gelding is showing dominant behaviour – often colloquially described as being a bit ‘riggy’ – it can be because there is testicular tissue still there, which you can’t see. In those individuals, we have to do some diagnostics.”

Using a combination of physical examination, ultrasound and hormone tests, a vet will assess whether any testicular tissue is present. If so, it’s removed surgically.

What are the side effects of castration?

Testosterone is part of a “negative feedback loop”. When the testes produce a lot of testosterone, it signals to the brain and pituitary gland to slow down production of the LH and FSH hormones. Without testes, that feedback loop is interrupted and less inhibited.

Research in dogs reveals some interesting differences between entire males and castrated males.

“There’s good evidence that intact males [dogs] have a lower risk of several immune-mediated and autoimmune diseases, making canines one of the veterinary species in which testosterone appears to exert a genuine protective immunological effect, although testosterone also increases the risk of several androgen-dependent conditions, particularly those affecting the prostate and perianal region.

“However, there’s currently no evidence to suggest that testosterone has a protective role in the long-term health of male horses.”

There’s also some evidence with dogs that the drop in testosterone following castration can cause increased anxiety and fearfulness, but again James says this isn’t typically seen in horses.

“Clinically, I don’t see a lot of geldings who lack confidence – if anything, you could argue they are not burdened by testosterone or oestrogen.

“It could be because horses have reasonably good socialisation from a young age, with their dams and other horses, so they don’t need testosterone to feel confident. Whereas dogs are often raised in single dog households and lack confidence when taken to a park full of other dogs.”

An alternative to surgical castration

A vaccination that could be an alternative to surgical castration has been used with some success. However, it’s currently not available for use in horses, meaning that any use is “off licence”.

It acts on the GnRH, which signals to the pituitary gland to release the hormones that stimulate the ovaries and testes, essentially limiting testosterone production (and oestrogen production in mares) from further up the hormonal chain.

“The GnRH vaccine is really interesting,” says James. “Anecdotal evidence suggests that it may suppress more than surgical castration, as it acts on a greater number of hormones. Also, its use is not without some significant risks.

“In some cases, the vaccine could be used for a time and you could still breed from the horse in the future, but there are no guarantees and its effect should practically be considered irreversible.

“Most people, if they want the stallion to have a breeding career later, will collect semen and freeze it first and then castrate, either surgically or chemically.”

A technique using ultrasound to destroy tumours that has been effective in people with cancer has been used to treat equine sarcoids.

The Virginia-Maryland College of Veterinary Medicine in the US has been conducting a live clinical trial using histotripsy.

The technique uses focused ultrasound waves to a targeted area. This creates microscopic “bubble clouds” from gases in tumour tissues; the bubbles form and collapse in microseconds, creating forces that destroy cancer cells.

Virginia Tech biomedical engineer Eli Vlaisavljevich’s lab has been refining it to target human liver, kidney and pancreatic tumours, and colleague Joanne Tuohy in the veterinary college has been using it to treat cancer in dogs.

Sophie Bogers, assistant professor of large animal surgery at the college, said horses seemed the obvious next step.

“There is no ‘one-fix-for-all’ solution for sarcoids,” she said. “Many of them require chemotherapy or invasive surgery. But I want a better solution.”

Histotripsy adapted for horses

Engineers and vets have been working together on a wearable device that could allow horses to be treated with histotripsy.

“This spring, their system got its first real test, on a horse named Pea, a nine-year-old Hanoverian mare who had a tumor on her belly,” a spokesperson for Virginia Tech said.

“Pea’s case was the first live test in the Virginia-Maryland College of Veterinary Medicine clinical trial trying to answer whether this sound-wave technology could treat sarcoids, the most common and hardest-to-beat skin tumor in horses.

“Researchers don’t yet know whether histotripsy can reliably keep a sarcoid from coming back, but they do know that at least one horse can tolerate the treatment standing and awake [under sedation], with no apparent ill effects.”

Pea is owned by Kelly Kuykendall, whose vet noticed the sarcoid and looked into pricing for surgical removal.

“Somehow it circled around to, oh my gosh, we have this study,” Kelly said. “My vet called me back within a couple of hours and said: ‘I’ve got great news. If you want to participate in a study, you can get this whole thing removed for free’.

“It’s super cool we get to help advance science and try to be at the top of new technologies.”

Kelly drove Pea from North Carolina; the mare stayed overnight and the team removed the sarcoid the next morning. By lunchtime she was on her way home.

“Everything was easy peasy,” said Kelly, who had not realised Pea would be the first horse treated while conscious.

“I said ‘That’s incredible’,” she said. “I wasn’t worried about that, just thrilled. I think it’s so cool we’re the first people coming in to do this.”

Destruction of the tumour was confirmed, which was “an early, encouraging sign, but not yet full proof the treatment works”. The team is now looking for more horses for this phase of the study.

Dr Bogers noted that sarcoids are the most common skin tumour in horses, notoriously hard to eliminate.

“In some cases for large sarcoids, people find the management of the sarcoid becomes too much, and they elect euthanasia,” she said.

“Fibroblastic sarcoid is basically a fleshy mass that horses get on their skin. The worst look like big red blobs. Left alone, they ulcerate, bleed, and attract flies.”

She pointed out that ultrasound is a tool vets use on horses “all the time”, and are comfortable with. She wants to produce a device small enough to be carried with vets and used the day a sarcoid is found, rather than months later.

“The more horses that have sarcoids treated early, the less management problem they’ll be, and the less morbidity from having these big lesions,” she said.

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Anyone who has sold and bought property knows that moving is one of the most stressful things a person can do – but what about equestrian property?

If moving once and landing in a horsey home for life is your aim, buying a forever home – or one to invest in and sell to fund retirement or future projects – takes more than just instincts. Forward planning will set you on the path to success.

From planning permission to budgeting and maintenance, here are the key factors to consider when trying to maximise the value of equestrian property.

Buying the right equestrian property

Buying a horsey home that'll set you and your horses up together forever, for many, is a dream come true. However, many of these sought-after forever homes return to the market.

How can people bear to let them go? Frequently, the situation is out of their hands.

Sometimes the sale of a late relative’s home puts equestrian property back on the market. Other times empty-nesters willingly downsize. Or, the home – though perfect when bought – simply isn’t futureproof.

“It’s about balancing domestic comfort with equine functionality,” says Abi Rhodes, director at Rural Scene. “The most common issue I hear from customers who are moving is that they simply don’t have enough grazing land.”

According to Sarah Lucas, land agent at Brown & Co, buyers should also consider evolving needs over the coming decades.

“That may mean accommodating retired horses, supporting younger family members entering the sport or creating additional income opportunities.”

Properties can fall short in their provision for the human occupants too.

“If the home needs to grow outwards or upwards to accommodate relatives in the future, structural and legal boundaries must be vetted immediately,” adds Abi.

While buying somewhere to live forever may secure the rest of your life, many properties become a nest egg that will facilitate retirement or future projects.

Adding to or extending equestrian facilities, or the home itself, is obvious for maximising values of equestrian property. Turning a ring-fenced agricultural smallholding into a bells and whistles “fully equestrianised” haven will, as Abi puts it, “always fetch a premium price”.

How much does equestrian property maintenance cost?

Let’s say you uncover an ideal-acreage equestrian home within budget in the kind of location that ticks all your boxes now and forever. Perfection in theory – but don't be caught out by maintenance.

Stunning equestrian properties don’t stay flawless on their own, so how can you chose a property that stands the test of time?

“When purchasing a long-term ‘forever home’, a multi-decade timeline shifts the financial focus from surface-level cosmetics to major structural life cycles,” warns Abi. “Over 20 to 40 years, every major component of a house will eventually reach its expiration date and require complete replacement.

“To plan accurately, buyers must break their long-term expenses into three distinct categories: fixed structural life cycles, preventative maintenance and rolling cosmetic updates.”

A buyer intending to remain in a property for several decades should budget for the full life cycle of key building components, says Brown & Co land agent Lulu Agnew. “Long-term ownership is often more affordable when these predictable costs are planned for gradually rather than dealt with reactively.”

In terms of maintenance, Lulu and Abi advise:

• Boilers, bathrooms and kitchens need periodic replacement
• Roofing, windows, drainage systems and external finishes may require significant investment over time
• Routine maintenance, such as gutter cleaning, fencing repairs, tree management and redecoration should also be anticipated
• Stable buildings require ongoing attention to roofing, timberwork, concrete floors and drainage
• Arenas need regular levelling, surface maintenance and drainage management to remain safe and functional, and surfaces will need topping up over time
• Exposed exterior wood requires staining or painting every three to five years to prevent rot
• Metal roofs on barns rust and standard shingles or metal sheets require full replacement on a 25-year cycle
• Timber post-and-rail lasts around 15 to 20 years; even pressure-treated wood posts rot at the ground line where moisture sits. Expect to replace individual rotted posts and snapped rails annually, with a complete fence-line replacement required every two decades

Maximising value of equestrian property with renovations that pay off

What if you plan to sell down the line? Smart investments will increase value.

“A well-maintained property will be worth more and look attractive to prospective purchasers,” says Sue Grant of Fox Grant. “A well-thought-out staged maintenance schedule can help to budget and spread the cost.”

Even totally undeveloped land can be transformed into a viable equestrian set-up.

“The cost of installing mains water to paddocks and field shelters generally pays dividends when you come to sell,” Sue adds. “Look on second-hand sale sites for materials; it’s amazing what people want to give away. Farm sales are also a good place to look for equipment.”

For larger-scale projects, a little research will help you spend wisely.

“Size is key,” says Abi, when offering tips for building an arena. “In this day and age, a 20x40m often isn’t large enough.

“Well-ventilated barns with internal stabling and wide aisle ways seem to be more sought after now compared to the old-fashioned timber looseboxes.”

Abi adds that high-quality, low-maintenance fencing is frequently overlooked.

“Fencing is the very first thing an equestrian buyer sees and poor fencing is a financial deterrent.”

Supporting your income with an equestrian property

Securing your future takes many forms – one of them could be capitalising on your property’s business potential.

Fox Grant managing director, chartered surveyor and horseman William Grant’s enterprising mindset helped him launch several business ventures from his equestrian smallholding in Wiltshire.

He purchased a five-acre parcel next to his own property for extra grazing, but started diversifying shortly after.

“We welcomed our first camper in 2009; they wanted somewhere to stay near Stonehenge, which is just a couple of miles from us,” he says. “Now we get around 15,000–20,000 campers a year.”

As well as the campsite – which has grown to include glamping units – William also facilitates storage and runs weddings and events, including Solstice Fest, a four-day music and wellbeing festival in June.

For William, anyone with land who is enterprising and open-minded enough can use it to earn a partly or completely passive income, and permitted development goes a long way.

Permitted development under class BC in England allows the use of any land as a recreational campsite for not more than 60 days in total in any calendar year – limited to 50 pitches.

In England, class BC is in addition to class B permitted development UK-wide, which allows you to use any land for any purpose for not more than 28 days.

William says demonstrating what’s commercially viable on your land through permitted development can also make resale more lucrative.

“If you do sell your property, then you’re also selling a business opportunity,” he remarks. “You’re adding equity by showing people there is cash flow right there waiting for them.”

Planning permission for equestrian homes

Off-the-peg equestrian homes are few and far between, and securing the finished article at purchase stage often requires an astronomical budget.

For Charlotte Roberts-Barr, senior consultant at Boatwrights, the best thing a purchaser can do is see the potential for long-term gains in an equestrian property.

“You can enlist the services of a planning consultant or put in a pre-application yourself,” says Charlotte.

You don’t have to own a property to submit a pre-application, but it can up to 10 weeks for a decision. Therefore, vendors can benefit from being able to demonstrate planning potential to prospective buyers via their own pre-app.

“I’d estimate it would cost around £1,000 for a consultant to submit it, but they understand the language and trigger points that the local authority may or may not look for,” Charlotte adds.

Maximising value with planning permission

Even if you don’t plan to make major changes to a property before you sell and capitalise, you can be shrewd with planning to secure development for potential buyers. If you have agricultural buildings standing empty, changing their classification – even without fully completing any works – can help boost your nest egg’s value.

“I would always apply for Class Q planning,” says Charlotte. “If it’s an agricultural building with a concrete base that’s been used for agricultural purposes in the last 10 years, you can apply for a 56-day notice to convert that building into a residential dwelling under Class Q planning.

“It’s the difference between a barn worth £100,000 and a barn worth £300,000, for instance.”

You can diversify your property to attract a future proprietor even if you don’t plan to run a business from home yourself.

“Let’s say for instance that you have a stable block and obtain planning to convert it to holiday lets,” says Charlotte.

“You would then undertake a material start to that conversion. This would constitute the most basics works as detailed by that scheme, such as clearing trees or moving fences.

“The key is also to ensure you register commencement of works with the council. That’s basically your stage one and it locks in the planning permission for that specific development – the planning cannot lapse.”

● Have you bought, renovated or diversified an equestrian property? Let us know your thoughts at hhletters@futurenet.com, including your name, nearest town and county, for the chance to have your thoughts published in a future issue of Horse & Hound magazine

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The threat of exotic equine diseases emerging in the UK is increasing owing to climate change – but there are measures that can be taken.

During a session at the 2026 British Equine Veterinary Association (BEVA) congress titled “Changing climate, changing diseases?” experts considered conditions including West Nile virus (WNV) and African horse sickness (AHS), both of which are notifiable, so must be reported to the Government if diagnosed in this country.

Richard Newton, director of epidemiology and disease surveillance at the University of Cambridge vet medicine department, explained that WNV is maintained in birds and transmitted by mosquitoes, not directly between horses. Its effects range from mild to fatal.

“We are trying to raise awareness among UK vets in terms of this,” he said. “It’s in north Africa and across Europe; it is considered exotic to the UK, we don’t have it circulating as far as we know. But it has been reported at least twice in horses in the UK, first in 2013, then in 2022, and both involved recently imported horses from Europe.”

The second case was in a horse who had been competing in southern Spain, and had to be euthanised.

Dr Newton referred to the fact remnants of WNV genetic material were found in mosquitoes in Britain. No more has been found since “but it’s a warning sign that things could be changing”.

He added that surveillance of mosquitoes is key in planning for any emergence of WNV here, citing a recent case of two German airport workers who died of malaria transmitted by mosquitoes that arrived on a plane. He showed a map showing that WNV appears to be moving further north in Europe, adding: “I think we’re seeing climate change modifying these risks. It’s changing environmental conditions and, I think, changing the ability to sustain insect vectors and transplant disease. So I think we have to be open to that.”

Action that can be taken

He added: “I’m really just highlighting to UK vets, UK stakeholders, if you’re travelling horses to mainland Europe, there is a risk, but there are things that can be done. You can vaccinate these horses.”

The WNV vaccine is very successful, he said, and its use is strongly recommended for horses travelling to mainland, particularly southern, Europe. Other measures include insect-repelling action such as fly spray and rugs, and considering wetland areas favoured by mosquitoes.

Mike Hewetson of the Royal Veterinary College spoke about AHS, of which he has had experience, a “horrendous disease”.

The insects that transmit AHS are not indigenous to the UK and our temperate climate does not favour them.

“But unfortunately, and as Richard has already mentioned, climate change has altered the status quo,” he said. “You don’t need to look very far to appreciate the very real risk climate change brings.”

Bluetongue concerns

Dr Hewetson cited the recent UK spread of bluetongue virus, which is potentially fatal in sheep and cows. It is similar to AHS and is transmitted by the same midges, blown over from continental Europe.

“But what is unprecedented and extremely worrying is that there’s now evidence of local transmission within the UK, which means our indigenous [midges] are also now capable of transmission of the disease,” he said. “If bluetongue is able to be transmitted in the UK, it’s not hard to imagine that the same could happen if AHS was introduced. The welfare and economic implications of an outbreak of AHS on a naive UK horse population would be devastating, and I don’t think that’s an understatement.”

There is no treatment for AHS and the mortality rate would be 90-95%, he said, adding that there are no licensed vaccines in this country, although one is in development.

“Surveillance is going to be critical, and we as vets will play a really important role in that,” he said. “EIDS [equine infectious disease surveillance] is responsible for surveillance schemes, and will be critical in disseminating that information. So I would definitely encourage you to subscribe to that, and obviously educating horse owners about the clinical signs of AHS will be critical. I think this quote by Peter Tiffany sums it up perfectly: ‘It’s important for horse owners to become educated on transboundary diseases. Don’t expect someone else to be the sole source of your information’.”

BEVA has more information on AHS online, and there is more information about equine disease on the Equine Infectious Disease Surveillance website.

● To stay up to date with the latest equestrian news, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

England and Wales have no plans to follow Scotland’s lead in updating outdated equine welfare guidance – but industry stakeholders say there is “no excuse”.

H&H reported that the Scottish Government published new equine welfare guidelines to replace the 2009 code of practice (news, 10 September). The guidelines – a result of a major collaboration across the Scottish equine sector led by the National Equine Welfare Council – reflect the latest scientific evidence, focusing on equine mental wellbeing and how owners can take measures that will “truly provide their horses, ponies and donkeys with a good life”.

World Horse Welfare was among those involved and the charity’s head of public affairs Kim Ayling told H&H it was “a really big step forward” for a government to take such a proactive approach.

“The Scottish Government was very open to having conversations about the guidance and it being sector-led,” she said, adding that the guidance can be updated “as and when needed” to incorporate new evidence.

Jo Hockenhull, head of research and ecology at The Donkey Sanctuary, added that what makes the guidance so strong is the “breadth of collaborators”, including charities such as The Donkey Sanctuary, researchers, vets and more.

“Although there have been guidelines before, they’ve sort of said: ‘It’s your duty of care to make sure your horse has food and water and shelter’ – but this goes so far beyond that,” said Dr Hockenhull.

“There’s been such a flush of research on welfare and what equines need to have a good life and I think this is the first guidance that I’m aware of that incorporates all of that. Scotland has really led the way, when you look at the dates of the English and Welsh codes of practice, so much has changed since then – we need to update these and there’s no excuses now.”

Redwings’ head of welfare and behaviour Nic de Brauwere told H&H the Scottish guidance drew on expertise from a “much wider range of stakeholders in the industry than any previous code was able to”.

“As a result the guidance reflects up-to-date, balanced and evidence-based expertise,” he said, adding that existing codes have not “achieved their full potential” to support keepers in meeting their equids’ needs.

Mr de Brauwere added that the Scottish guidance does not place “unrealistic expectations on keepers”, but for the first time focuses “more clearly on helping them consider how their efforts are impacting their horses”.

“With the detail in the guidance there is also ample, evidence-based information on how making a few key changes can give their horse a better quality of life. A life that not only meets the legal requirements but also is likely to reward the keeper with a more settled, healthier and therefore more enjoyable horse. A happy horse should make a happy owner,” he said.

“The Scottish guidance has succeeded where previous codes fell short, giving clarity and detail about what the goal of meeting an equid’s needs should be; and therefore I cannot see how England and Wales can resist bringing their codes up to date in the foreseeable future.”

When H&H asked if the English and Welsh governments have plans to update their 2018 codes of practice to reflect new research, both said no.

A Welsh Government spokesperson told H&H its code of practice “sets out clear standards” and focus “remains on promoting awareness of the existing code”. A Defra spokesperson confirmed to H&H there are “no plans” to update guidance.

Ms Ayling said these responses were “disappointing”.

“Updating England and Wales’ codes would be relatively straightforward, as all the hard work has been done,” she said.

“The Scottish guidance reflects current evidence and expert understanding and already has the endorsement of the whole sector”.

• What are your thoughts on the Scottish guidance? Let us know your thoughts at hhletters@futurenet.com, including your name, nearest town and county, for the chance to have your thoughts published in a future issue of Horse & Hound magazine

A rallying call has gone out to horse owners, to help in the fight against deadly antibiotic resistance.

The Veterinary Medicines Directorate (VMD) and the University of Liverpool are inviting owners to take part in a study on antimicrobial resistance (AMR) in healthy horses. H&H has reported on the need to tackle resistance, as the effects on human and animal health if antibiotics become ineffective could be catastrophic in future.

The HealthyHorseAMR project, led by the University of Liverpool and funded by the VMD, aims to identify the most effective methods for surveillance of antimicrobial resistance in horses.

“AMR is recognised as one of the world’s most significant public health threats,” a VMD spokesperson said. “It occurs when bacteria develop resistance to antibiotics, which can make infections difficult, or even impossible, to treat. Antibiotic-resistant bacteria can also be found in healthy animals without causing disease, meaning animals can act as reservoirs of resistance that may spread to other animals or people.”

Register to take part in the project

The UK has a 20-year plan to “contain, control and mitigate” AMR by 2040. There are surveillance programmes in some livestock sectors but “gaps in our surveillance of companion animals and horses”.

“Monitoring AMR in healthy horses presents different challenges, and effective surveillance will require tailoring methods specifically to the equine sector,” the spokesperson said.

“Latest estimates show that there are approximately 847,000 horses in the UK. This includes horses owned by around 374,000 households as well as those kept in professional settings such as racing yards. The close relationship between horses and the people who own, ride, and care for them creates opportunities for the transmission of antibiotic-resistant bacteria in either direction.”

Antibiotic resistance research: addressing the gap in horses

The research aims to address the gap by considering ways of collecting samples and identifying approaches to support future surveillance.

“This work will provide valuable evidence on AMR within the UK equine sector, helping researchers better understand how resistant bacteria circulate, and enabling the early identification of emerging resistance,” the spokesperson said.

Owners are invited to complete a questionnaire and provide faecal samples from their horses; those who register will be sent a postage-paid sampling kit.

Gina Pinchbeck, a professor in epidemiology at the University of Liverpool, said: “We are very excited to be working on this project.

“The HealthyHorseAMR project will provide much-needed up-to-date evidence and inform the best methods for horse recruitment and sampling for future surveillance efforts. This is an important step towards a one health AMR surveillance system in the UK, and we encourage everyone within the equine industry to get involved.”

● To stay up to date with the latest equestrian news, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

A premature foal born with deformities so severe her survival was in doubt, orphaned hours after her birth, is thriving thanks to the dedication of those caring for her.

Penelope Pitstop was unable to stand after she was born in March, as her tendons were so significantly contracted, her “front feet were pointing to heaven”. Her dam died within 12 hours, from complications unrelated to the birth.

Penelope was referred to the independent Little Rock Equine Vets in Staffordshire. The clinic’s founder Shelley Cook told H&H: “She was small – but very determined.”

Dr Cook added that the warmblood filly had a very traumatic start to life.

“Normally, when foals are born this premature, coupled with the severity of issues, their chances of survival are very slim,” she said. “Penelope was suffering from severe contraction of the extensor tendons and severe laxity of the superficial digital flexor tendon and deep digital flexor tendon at the back of the cannon in her front legs, coupled with incomplete ossification [the cartilage had not fully hardened into bone, in her knees, hocks and other areas].”

“The first challenge was simply keeping her alive,” Dr Cook added.

Penelope’s owner, Nick Cadman, found a foster mare and Twemlows Stud Farm helped the two bond. Once the pair had settled, the scale of her issues became clear.

“It’s not uncommon for foals to be born a little weak or wobbly, but this was unlike anything we had seen before,” Dr Cook said. “She couldn’t stand properly and her front feet were pointing to heaven.

“When we took X-rays, the picture was even worse than we had expected, and the advice was that euthanasia might be the kindest option because her chances of survival were so limited. But we knew we had to try.”

Dr Cook added that it was first thought Penelope had been born at 325 days’ gestation but when she was X-rayed again at six weeks old, they realised from her growth plates that she had been born at least two weeks “younger” than this.

“This was great from the perspective of having more time to aid her limb deformities, because it bought both myself and the farrier Henry Tracy more time to aid her recovery,” she said.

Little Rock worked with Nick and Henry on a treatment plan, creating bespoke extensions to support and reshape the filly’s feet, and giving her essentially round-the-clock physiotherapy.

“When I was presented with Penelope, I knew straight away it wasn’t going to be straightforward,” Henry said. “It was far from it. I knew that to correct the severe deformity was going to be a major undertaking with a very guarded prognosis.”

Penelope’s fetlocks had to be supported, while encouraging gradual correction of her leg position. Her team first tried plywood as it would take the weight but this only worked for 24 hours as it was too heavy. They developed a bespoke nylon extension that was light and strong enough to support Penelope as needed.

“The device effectively provided continuous physiotherapy, helping stretch the contracted structures at the front of the limb while supporting the lax structures behind it,” a Little Rock spokesperson said “At one stage, the team extended Penelope’s foot length by eight inches as part of the effort to gradually correct the deformity.

“The team used a combination of diagnostic imaging, bespoke supportive farriery and ongoing monitoring to manage the foal’s condition. The specially designed extensions altered foot placement and applied controlled support to the affected structures, with the aim of encouraging gradual correction while maintaining comfort and limb function.”

But because Penelope was growing, and at first had very soft newborn feet, the design had to be continually reviewed and changed.

“Weight, flexibility and durability were all factors, and we also had to take into account the softness of the foal’s feet and the risk of pressure-related complications,” Dr Cook said.

Henry added that this case shows the importance of vets and farriers working together.

“Working alongside a vet you get along with and can work extremely closely with is one of the most valuable things you can have,” he said. “This has been, to this day, one of the most satisfying cases I’ve done.”

Dr Cook agreed, adding: “We invest a lot of time in working closely with local farriers and in continuing their professional development, and this case really demonstrates the value of that. Penelope needed a tailored approach, and that was only possible because the right team was around her from the beginning.”

She added that Henry trimmed Penelope’s feet on Thursday (17 September), and “there is no noticeable deformity at all now either in front or behind – it looks like she now has good conformation”.

“Outstanding” care

Nick said both Shelley and Henry had been “outstanding”.

“They’ve been fully invested in Penelope from day one and their skill, persistence and attention to detail have made all the difference,” he said.

“Her front limbs are now very close to where they should be for her age, and to see her standing correctly on all four limbs after where she started is remarkable. We’re delighted with the progress she’s made.”

Henry added: “The outcome we have finished with is remarkable and I’m thrilled to see her happily running around the field. I can't wait to see how she turns out over the next few years.”

Dr Cook said the Little Rock team is looking forward to seeing Penelope grow up.

“We are keen to share Penelope’s story because it may encourage owners and professionals not to write these foals off too early,” she said. “Not every case will be manageable but there are many situations where a collaborative and carefully adapted approach can make a real difference. We can’t wait to see how Penelope progresses.”

To stay up to date with the latest equestrian news, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

Tullis Matson has an old black and white photo of a Suffolk horse ploughing a field with his grandfather. It’s not just a sentimental treasure, for heavy horses have had a huge impact in Tullis’s pioneering work with rare breeds. But that began with a passion for the horse.

“Suffolks, like many heavy horse breeds, put food on our table in the 1930s and ‘40s; they worked with us through wars, so now we have a choice,” says Tullis, founder and director of Stallion AI. “Do we let them go, or do we save them? It’s our heritage.”

Tullis spent a morning at Gatcombe Park Stud, where the Princess Royal has a small herd of Suffolk horses – stallions, mares and geldings – to see “how they’re trying to stop these amazing rare-breed horses from going extinct”. He went for a hack, a ride in the carriage and drove horses chain-harrowing a field, before visiting a few of Gatcombe’s Suffolk mares in their paddocks with Princess Anne.

“What amazes me is their versatility,” he says. “It was an incredible experience, I had an amazing ride – and I didn’t know how many gears they had. They’re powerful – weighing a tonne – yet graceful with it.”

Suffolks are of special interest to Tullis. In 2019, his cryoconservation techniques were used to select female sperm to breed a Suffolk filly in an effort to boost critically low numbers of mares in this rare breed.

“I’ve never looked through a foal’s back legs so quickly!” he says. “It was a big milestone. When that filly was born, I said, ‘This foal holds the future.’”

Tullis has used the same pioneering techniques for other endangered species, including bull elephants and white rhinos, through his charity Nature’s SAFE.

“Suffolks are close to my heart; my mother loved them,” he says. “But also this breed means so much to me because they’ve been a challenge when it comes to breeding. So we’ve had to up our game in terms of how we can freeze the semen and that’s now what we’ve pushed across to other breeds of horses we can help.

“Not only that, but we’ve been able to help other species like rhinos and elephants, and it all comes from the Suffolk horse. I thank the Suffolk because they helped develop this technology. We had to pull out all the stops to save them – if we could do this with this amazing animal, why couldn’t we do it with other species.

“The importance of saving these horses is absolutely paramount. If we lose the breed we can never bring it back.”

Princess Anne keeps a handful of Suffolk horses at Gatcombe, alongside other rare breed animals, such as Gloucestershire Old Spot pigs.

“I’m old enough to have seen these horses working in Norfolk,” the Princess says. “My passion for the Suffolks really comes from an annoyance that we forget at our peril just how good they were at working and how much they worked for us.

“These horses are the future,” says Tullis

We’ve lost that trait, identifying that these animals really enjoyed what they did.

“The heavies have been bred to work for a very long time. It’s in their DNA. People need to understand they’ve been our companion animals and working partners. They understand what they’re doing and enjoy it: show them a piece of harness and they know what to do. They say, ‘That’s OK, we’ll do that.’

While Tullis is already impressed by these heavies’ versatility, Princess Anne lists more of their skills.

“All our paddocks are chain-harrowed by the Suffolks,” she says. “There are places where having horses working makes a difference – they make less mess, they’re neater, they can work in smaller places.

“I just wonder if they could have a future with the fuel crisis,” she laughs, “so they’re not entirely loss-making. That would be nice.”

One avenue she would like to see explored is logging: “The logging is done much more in Nordic countries, the States and in Canada,” she says. “If you want a harness, you have to go to Scandinavia or America to get it, but there is more scope here than you think. And my Christmas tree was delivered by Suffolk last year. They could do more of that.

“There is commercially a possibility for these horses – we just have to be aware of what that could be so that people can make it possible.”

Tullis adds: “Their numbers are slightly improving but you cannot be complacent. They can’t exist just on goodwill, we have to find a job for them. It’s incredible what they’re doing at Gatcombe.”

Both Princess Anne and Tullis agree that to save the breed, we need to think outside the box, continuing to push the bounds of both technology and ideas.

When a breeding population falls very low, inbreeding makes it hard to get mares in foal. The SPARKS (Single Population Analysis and Records Keeping System) advisory scheme, which uses deep pedigree analysis, is now being applied to Suffolk breeding to inform appropriate matches.

“It’s like a dating agency for Suffolks,” and has really helped turn around other rare breeds such as Cleveland Bays,” says Tullis. “Inbreeding is such a problem in small populations because it can lead to mid- to late-term pregnancy loss, higher neonatal losses, infertility and problems with semen quality. And foals are more likely to be male – when we need to increase the female population.”

Princess Anne points out that the fact that Suffolks are so versatile means they make a great cross on a lighter breed – which has possibly exacerbated their rarity.

“Arguably the reason they’ve become so rare is that they make such good outcrosses,” she says, introducing Tullis to a 22-year-old mare who’s had three foals, one of which was half thoroughbred.

“They have relatively clean legs, so a lot of them were bred as good heavy or middleweight hunters, straight crosses, but they didn’t really go back to the pedigree enough so they kind of disappeared. Her crossbred is dark brown, so looking at him you wouldn’t think that’s a Suffolk, but there are others you look at and you can tell they have Suffolk in their history.”

Princess Anne asks what else could be done to perpetuate the breed. The Suffolk has always been exclusively chestnut (traditionally without the T) but could the gene pool be widened?

“It’s often about colour,” she says. “In the States, the native population learnt to breed coloured animals. If that’s the only difference, what does it matter?

“So I think there is scope to progress. I think sometimes we quibble about technology but with rare breeds it’s a really useful addition. It gives you scope you didn’t have before.”

Tullis agrees that all options need to be considered. “We’re going down a funnel and they call it the extinction vortex, which is very difficult to climb out of. We have to look at what’s out there and not have tunnel vision.”

But he remains optimistic: “We have the technology we are already using, freezing sperm and eggs, then tissue is the future as it contains the whole DNA,” he says.

“We have to look at all technologies – they’re all tools in conservation – if we want to save these species. We owe it to the next generation.”

He pats one of the mares.

“These horses, the female line, are the future,” he says. “These are the horses that helped save the elephants and the rhinos.”

Facts about the Suffolk horse

• The Suffolk is one of four British heavy horse breeds, alongside the Shire, Clydesdale and Percheron – all of which are among the biggest horse breeds in the world
• The breed is often known colloquially as Suffolk Punch, but just Suffolk is correct.
• They are always chestnut – spelt the traditional Suffolk way with no “t”.
• Listed as a priority by the Rare Breeds Survival Trust, the highest level of endangerment. The data is showing improvement, but prognosis is guarded as the number of breeding animals is still very low.
• All studbook horses can trace their male lines back to a single stallion, “Crisp’s Horse of Ufford”, foaled in 1768.
• Unlike other heavy horse breeds, they have minimal feather, preventing them from being weighed down by heavy East Anglian clay.
• According to the Suffolk Horse Society’s secretary Belinda Rudderham: “On average, 85 mares go to stud each year; the society registers 40 foals”.

Do you have experience with Suffolk horses? Let us know at hhletters@futurenet.com

With thanks to D&H, who facilitated ambassador Tullis Matson’s interview at Gatcombe Park

In this week’s edition of Horse & Hound magazine (17 September), we feature a behind the scenes look at Gatcombe Park Stud, where Princess Anne keeps a small herd of Suffolk horses alongside other rare breeds. Subscribers can also read the feature online.

Tullis Matson, founder and director of Stallion AI, visited the stud to meet the Princess Royal’s herd. He has a longstanding passion for the breed, starting with a personal connection through his family and becoming a major thread within his career.

During the visit, he saw how this heavy horse breed’s traditional working qualities remain very much in use, and how Suffolks are playing their part in a much bigger conservation story.

Tullis’ work to improve breeding prospects for the critically rare Suffolk has helped develop reproductive technologies that have since been used in conservation work with endangered species, including white rhinos and elephants.

During his visit to Gatcombe Park, Tullis rode, drove and chain-harrowed with the horses before joining Princess Anne to meet some of her mares.

“My passion for the Suffolks really comes from an annoyance that we forget at our peril just how good they were at working,” said the Princess.

She believes there is still a place for these historic heavy horses, from estate work to logging and other jobs where their strength and relatively light footprint can be an advantage.

“There are places where having horses working makes a difference,” the Princess added. “They make less mess, they’re neater and can work in smaller places.”

For Tullis, however, securing the breed’s future will require both practical opportunities and innovative breeding technology.

“These horses, the female line, are the future,” he says. “These are the horses that helped us save the elephants and the rhinos.”

With thanks to D&H, who facilitated ambassador Tullis’s interview at Gatcombe Park

A major appeal has been launched for funding to help in the ongoing battle against equine grass sickness (EGS) after a recent increase in cases – including the death of five ponies in a herd of eight.

The Equine Grass Sickness Fund, a charity that is part of the Moredun Foundation, had recorded 74 cases of EGS by 11 September 2026, compared to 67 in 2025. The condition, which causes degenerative changes to the central and autonomic (involuntary) nervous systems, is fatal in some 80% of cases.

Research scientist Beth Wells of the foundation told H&H it had been a “pretty bad year” for reported cases.

“But I think we only get the tip of the iceberg,” she said. “We think there are far more cases than are reported. But without that, we just don’t know where they’re occurring, what time of year, how many cases, what type of horses, whether they survive or not.”

Dr Wells said it is thought the increase is owing to the atypical weather conditions this year.

“Cases are springing up where we wouldn’t necessarily expect them,” she said. “We’re getting them on the usual east coast, Scotland, right down England to Kent, and quite a few further west.

“It’s not to say there’s never grass sickness in the west because there are sporadic cases. But we seem to be getting clusters of acute cases where the horses are all dying. A lady in the south-west of Scotland had a horrible experience. She’s a breeder, she’d never had it before and she lost five over a weekend.”

The foundation has, with a climatologist, modelled weather conditions that can increase the risk of EGS; high temperatures during the day followed by cold nights, and prolonged drought followed by a sudden change and flush of grass.

Dr Wells said owners can sign up to weather alerts on the Equine Grass Sickness Fund website, which means they will be sent a WhatsApp message if the conditions are risky, and if cases are reported in the area – another highlight of the importance of reporting.

The fundraising campaign is on now

She said she keeps her Highlands in a high-risk area so she keeps an eye on the weather but also feeds hay in the field all year round.

“Anything that keeps the microbiome stable,” she said. “The hypothesis is that the weather causes a flush of grass, which potentially upsets the microbiome. That could interfere with the tight junctions of the gut, potentially letting through anything into the ‘inner workings’ of the horse, where it has access to the nervous system, the neurons, circulatory system.

“That’s my gut feeling so the biggest thing the owner can do is keep the microbiome stable.”

Dr Wells gets as many ponies in as she can every day for a break from grass with hay. She feeds the minerals key to smooth muscle function and ensures her horses have a balanced diet, making no sudden changes. She said a link between ivermectin and EGS has been shown, so if worming with this is needed, as shown by testing, she advises delaying worming until high-risk conditions have settled.

All the 38 reported cases between April and June died, which Dr Wells said shows “the devastation of the disease”.

“And we can’t treat it,” she said. “That’s why research is so important.”

The fund set up a biobank, funded by the British Horse Society, of tissue samples from affected horses to be studied and compared with those from healthy horses. They also grow “organoids”, versions of equine organs grown in a lab from stem cells, which can be used to model the disease and carry out tests – but this is hugely expensive.

“The fund is a charity and relies on donations,” she said. “We’re really pushing the research and doing massive fundraising campaigns. We appreciate any support from horse owners, and it’s all about the funding; we need equine research properly funded but we are absolutely determined. We will get answers but it’s really not simple.”

The campaign, launched on 11 September, asks owners to donate anything they can.

“We hear regularly from owners whose lives have been changed forever by grass sickness,” a fund spokesperson said. “For those who have lost beloved horses and ponies, the impact can be devastating. We also celebrate the small number of chronic cases that survive through intensive nursing and dedicated veterinary care, offering hope that improved understanding and treatment can make a real difference.”

To stay up to date with the latest equestrian news, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

More than one in nine checks on used horseboxes and trailers in 2026 revealed they were connected with a theft, fraud or other “financial irregularity”.

New analysis by The Equipment Register (TER), a database of plant, agricultural and stolen equipment records, found that 11% of checks on horseboxes and trailers (all types of trailers in the register) matched the above issues, compared to 10% flagged last year.

TER, which has details of more than 1.8 million items, is urging buyers to be vigilant.

“Many people are surprised when they hear that more than one in every nine checks conducted with TER identifies an outstanding finance agreement, theft record or other security interest,” said Treve Jenkyn, a manager at TER.

“The reality is that these are not isolated incidents. Our data shows that the problem has remained remarkably consistent for almost a decade.

“The increase we have seen during 2026 is particularly noteworthy because it follows several years in which match rates have remained persistently high. Buyers cannot afford to assume that the horsebox or trailer being offered for sale is free from finance or has a legitimate history simply because it appears genuine or is being sold through a familiar platform.”

Mr Jenkyn added that simple checks before buying can help avoid losing money, and help police and insurers trace stolen property.

“Taking a few minutes to check its history is essential due diligence before committing to a transaction,” he said.

Jodie Seddon, partner at Aria Grace Law CIC, told H&H that acting in good faith is not enough to protect genuine buyers.

“We would encourage people to check vehicle registration documents carefully for consistency, and to verify that the vehicle or machinery is not subject to any finance arrangement before committing to a purchase,” she said.

“This is particularly important when buying from private sellers, where less consumer law protections would apply. If you discover that a vehicle or machinery you have bought is stolen, you should seek legal advice as a matter of urgency.”

The TER figures were released at the start of the National Rural Crime Network’s (NRCN) National Rural Crime Action week (6–11 September). As part of the week, the National Farmers’ Union (NFU) called for stronger collaboration between Government and police “that translates to on-the-ground support for rural communities impacted by rural crime”.

“We need a consistent and coordinated response from Government and police forces, with fairer funding for rural policing, a dedicated rural crime team in every police force and a cross-departmental rural crime task force,” said NFU vice-president Robyn Munt. “No one should have to live or work in fear.”

Data released this spring by insurance firm NFU Mutual calculated the cost of rural crime in the UK to be £41.5m in 2025, compared to £44.1m in 2024. The NFU Mutual report put this six per cent reduction down to “targeted investment in rural crime prevention, alongside industry collaboration with law enforcement”, but noted that the impact of rural crime “extends beyond financial loss” in terms of the effect it can have on people and communities.

The NRCN hosted a drop-in session at the House of Commons on 8 September, supported by the Countryside Alliance (CA), at which Government plans for police reform – that include rationalising forces – was a key talking point.

The CA is also encouraging people to report incidents through its rural crime map that launched in March, as an addition (not a replacement) to contacting the police.

• Visit: https://www.countryside-alliance.org/report-rural-crime

• To stay up to date with the latest equestrian news, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

New equine welfare guidance is encouraging owners in Scotland to “take measures that will truly provide their horses, ponies and donkeys with a good life”.

The Scottish Government has published new guidelines, created with support from organisations including the National Equine Welfare Council, British Horse Society (BHS) and SSPCA, to replace the 2009 welfare of equids code of practice.

The in-depth guidance includes the need to consider equine mental wellbeing, providing positive experiences, the importance of social interaction and turnout, responsible breeding and buying and selling. The Scottish Government “recognises that animal welfare knowledge, management practices and science have moved on from previous management principles”.

Assessing welfare is another focus. The guidance discusses the five domains model and sets out indicators of good welfare, “behavioural signs needing further investigation” and pain-related behaviours – and provides advice around end-of-life decisions.

“Owners and keepers should not only be aiming to reduce negative experiences, but striving to provide opportunities to meet equid needs effectively and provide positive experiences,” states the guidance.

Scottish Government equine welfare guidance: giving horses choices

“Allowing equids to have choice/agency within their lives is crucial. When equids are denied the opportunity to meet their own needs or resolve stressors themselves at the time of their experience, these repeated negative experiences can become prolonged leading to chronic stress, ultimately compromising both mental and physical welfare.”

A Scottish Government spokesperson said an animal’s quality of life can be classified as a life not worth living, a life worth living or a good life.

“This guidance is intended to help those responsible for equids to provide them with, as a minimum, a life worth living, as well as encouraging owners and keepers to take measures that will truly provide their horse, pony or donkey with a good life,” said the spokesperson.

BHS national manager for Scotland Georgina Charlton told H&H the guidance is an “important step towards ensuring equids and the people who care for them can thrive together”.

“Whether you own or care for horses, ponies or other equids, this guidance provides clear, practical advice to help them enjoy the best possible quality of life,” she said.

In March, the SSPCA launched a new manifesto calling for a review of the Animal Health and Welfare (Scotland) Act, including embedding the five domains model into legislation. An SSPCA spokesperson said the charity welcomes this guidance, which “recognises how much our understanding of equine welfare has developed in recent years”.

“Good welfare is about far more than preventing cruelty or disease. It is about ensuring horses have the opportunity to experience positive outcomes, interact socially, express natural behaviours and enjoy a good quality of life,” the spokesperson said.

“The guidance is a positive step towards a more modern and holistic approach to equine welfare, and we hope it will help owners and those responsible for equines across Scotland understand and put these principles into practice.”

The spokesperson added that the SSPCA has “long supported the need for animal welfare policy and legislation to reflect the latest scientific evidence”.

“For horses in particular, this means looking beyond the absence of suffering and considering what is needed for them to genuinely thrive,” they said.

“We hope this guidance will help drive higher standards of welfare and provide a strong foundation for the continued improvement of welfare.”

H&H asked Defra if it has plans to create similar guidance for England and was told that Defra already has a code of practice for equines providing owners with information on how to meet their needs.

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Maximising turnout may reduce the risk of post-partum colic in broodmares – as researchers call for owners to use science-backed information over “old wives’ tales”.

In a study published in Animals, researchers from the University of Liverpool investigated risk factors for post-partum colic in thoroughbred broodmares in the UK and Ireland. The researchers analysed medical and management data for more than 1,000 mares from 29 studs during the 2021 and 2022 foaling seasons.

Lead researcher Elizabeth Cullen, an equine internal medicine specialist at Rainbow Equine Hospital, told H&H it is known anecdotally, that broodmares are “very prone to developing colic” and that they are “widely regarded to be at an increased risk compared to other horses”.

“From the mares we followed we gathered lots of information about the colic episodes and diagnosis, any changes in management, medications, whether they had had colic before – and then we compared the data with three control horses: mares that had foaled but hadn’t got colic,” said Dr Cullen.

“The vast number of colic episodes were within the first 10 days. The risk of colic decreased from the point of foaling until around 50 days after, then plateaued.”

The findings showed that days post-partum and hours stabled had the “strongest associations with colic risk”; the likelihood of post-partum colic “increased by around 16% for each additional hour that mares were stabled per day”. Broodmares who had been given non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs such as bute) in the previous 28 days or had a history of colic may be at increased risk.

“There’s plenty of reasons why less turnout and more time in the stable might cause colic; they’re not active, they’re not grazing and they’re being fed in more intermittent large quantities, which is not their natural feeding behaviour,” said Dr Cullen.

“In terms of bute use, we would need to look at why they were having bute, for example was the mare in more pain after foaling and actually predisposed to colic. It’s important to take findings at face value and the message is certainly not: ‘Don’t give them bute’, but that maybe these mares might be the ones to watch.”

Dr Cullen added that the research highlighted a need for further colic education among horse owners. In May H&H reported a University of Nottingham study that showed misconceptions around colic were common and that many owners were reluctant to change their approach.

“There were management strategies employed by studs where they had the perception ‘this would stop their horses getting colic’ – and a lot of things that they thought were important had very little evidence behind them,” said Dr Cullen, giving the example of feeding bran mash.

“There’s no evidence that bran mash is beneficial and it’s such a widely used strategy. Old wives’ tales get passed down, we had farms that would let their mares roll after foaling in the paddock if they thought that would stop them getting a twisted gut, or they put them on a special diet and change their feed. Colic is a huge emotional and financial strain and it’s important to disseminate information based on science.”

British Equine Veterinary Association junior vice-president James Crabtree told H&H the paper is a “welcome addition” to literature on post-foaling colic.

“We now have some helpful numbers quantifying the risk of encountering colic at this time, and how days post-foaling and confinement to the mare’s box influence her risk,” said Dr Crabtree, an equine reproduction and stud medicine independent veterinary consultant.

“With this improved understanding, we veterinarians can better communicate these risks to our clients to develop appropriate strategies to minimise the risk of post-foaling colic. In addition, it reveals some additional risk factors such as administration of non-steroidal anti-inflammatories in the preceding 28 days.”

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Veterinary research into osteoarthritis (OA) may lead to treatment that could slow or even reverse the disease, in humans and animals.

Research led by the Royal Veterinary College (RVC), published in Bone Research, has identified an inhibitor, a protein that binds to an enzyme and slows or stops its activity, that may improve joint health as well as translating into new treatment.

“The findings provide a potential first-of-its-kind disease-modifying strategy that could improve how the disease is managed in both humans and animals,” an RVC spokesperson said.

In OA, the most common form of arthritis, cartilage mineralises and breaks down, underlying bone changes and inflammation develops within joints. It affects more than 527 million people globally and 50% of horses aged over 15. There are no approved treatments that can reverse or halt disease progression.

The team, led by Scott Roberts of the RVC, identified protein CDK8/19 as a drug target in OA disease cell models, and tested an inhibitor in arthritic mice.

Those who had the treatment showed improved gait, greater ability to complete treadmill exercise tests, reduced weight gain and lower levels of OA biomarkers in the blood, as well as improvements in cartilage composition in the knee joints.

Untreated osteoarthritic mice usually have tiny “bridges” of mineralised tissue in the growth plate area of the bone, associated with worsening joint damage. The treated mice had fewer bridges; those that did develop were less dense.

“While additional research is needed before these findings can be translated into treatments for patients, the findings suggest that the use of a CDK8/19 inhibitor may help slow or even reverse OA disease and improve whole joint health, which is a promising new avenue for OA therapy,” the spokesperson said.

Dr Roberts added that the study provides information on the way cells cause disease in OA, as well as an option for disease reversal.

“This is hugely exciting and impactful given the absence of any disease-modifying osteoarthritis drugs,” he said. “The next stage is to transition the research into proof-of-concept studies to show disease-modifying efficacy in a patient population.”

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How to help fields recover from drought will be a question that resurfaces more and more frequently as climate change continues disturbing weather patterns and unleashing hotter, drier summers.

We have all witnessed the UK turn from a green and pleasant land to a consummate Sahara, with our horses’ fields withering away into hot, dry plains. Grass, unable to grow, has been in short supply. With the 2026 hay yield diminished, many of us have been putting out forage from our winter stocks and are now not only worrying about how to reduce the upcoming hay bills, but how to help our paddocks recover.

What happens to fields during a drought?

• Grass stops growing to conserve moisture.
• Soil becomes compacted, which prevents air, moisture and nutrients reaching the roots.
• Rain runs off the surface instead of being absorbed, which can contribute to flooding.
• Bare areas develop where grass is overgrazed (also weakening the roots) and in high-traffic areas.
• Opportunistic weeds grow before grass has chance to re-establish.

How to help fields recover from drought

Is there anything to be done to help fields recover from drought? Experts at Posh Pastures, suppliers of field maintenance equipment, say yes in many cases.

Rehabilitating your paddocks means waiting for moisture, assessing the damage and working the land appropriately. Here is Posh Pastures’ advice.

1. Wait for moisture

Helping fields recover hinges on moisture.

Before you do any paddock maintenance, the land must be workable to avoid damaging equipment. This means you do unfortunately need to wait for that long-awaited downpour before rescuing your field.

If you can push a spade or soil probe (like this one) into multiple areas across your field without excessive force, the land is ready to work.

2. Aerate or slit compact ground

This makes openings in the soil, helping moisture, air and nutrients reach grass roots. Concentrate on the most heavily compacted areas first, but expand if compaction is widespread.

3. Harrow to remove dead grass and improve the surface

This will also make more productive conditions for overseeding where necessary. You may need to harrow badly affected paddocks more than once.

4. Overseed bare or thin patches

Overseeding speeds up the recovery process where grass has died. You should seed after harrowing.

Ensure:

• You choose a seed specifically formulated for equestrian paddocks (like this one) and apply at the recommended rate.
• The seed makes firm contact with the soil – rolling can help with this, but only when conditions are suitable (i.e. not too wet).
• Moisture is sufficient for germination.
• Horses are kept off while the new grass establishes.

7. Apply fertiliser once the grass is growing

Adding fertiliser to dormant grass will not help, but when growth has restarted with sufficient moisture, a suitable fertiliser (testing your soil will help you find the right one) should improve recovery.

8. Allow the paddock to rest and recover

Before allowing horses to graze, you should ensure the grass is established well enough so that the roots of new seedlings are not pulled up by horses grazing.

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What is a luxury stable? That probably depends on who you ask.

From a rider or owner’s point of view, luxury might be in what you see: pristine paintwork, high-end finishes, a glossy nameplate, and features that take some of the effort out of daily chores, like smart storage that doesn’t clutter or catch cobwebs.

However, a luxury stable’s focus should be its primary occupant: the horse. Keeping stabled horses happy and healthy should be of upmost importance and they have an altogether different set of needs, from enrichment to hygiene.

If you want to treat your horse (and yourself) to a perfect stable, here is what you need to consider…

Ventilation

“Good ventilation is essential for maintaining a healthy environment for both horses and people,” says Victoria Webb, sales representative at Monarch Stables. “Fresh air helps remove moisture, dust and ammonia, reducing the risk of respiratory problems while creating a more comfortable stable environment.”

According to Prime Stables, a good ventilation system uses a combination of openings and sometimes mechanical stable fans to ensure airflow throughout the entire building.

“Moisture is an especially serious issue,” says a spokesman. “Just as a poorly ventilated bathroom accumulates steam and mould, horse stalls can fill with damp air as horses sweat, breathe, and generate heat.

“This dampness encourages mould spores, dust mites and ammonia, all of which are harmful irritants for horses and humans.”

Ways to improve your stable’s ventilation and hygiene include:

• Adding design elements such as stable vents or louvre windows, or larger windows that also allow natural light in
• Installing a ceiling or stable fan
• Choosing the right type of bedding to minimise dust
• Regular removal and cleaning of stable mats, or installing sealed matting

Feeding and enrichment

Installing gadgets and products makes watering and feeding horses fit more seamlessly into the daily routine. “The best stable extras can be the ones that make everyday jobs easier,” says Victoria.

“A wall-mounted hay feeder such as Ezehay can help keep hay off the floor, reduce mess and minimise waste, while providing a dedicated place for feeding,” she continues. “Its capacity of up to 13.5kg of dry hay can also make it useful for reducing the number of times hay needs to be replenished throughout the day.”

Victoria also recommends automatic drinkers. “Think about items that support both the horse and owner routine.”

Horse-focused enrichment upgrades include…

• Installing talk grilles that allow horses to touch. You can even go bespoke with designing your stable yard and lower the stall partition height to allow horses to groom one another from their stables
• Adding food-based enrichment to slow down chewing like hay pillows, slow feeders and small-holed haynets
• Using boredom busters, stable toys, treat balls or mirrors to entertain your horse

Aesthetics and storage

You can create the feel of a luxury stable with tidiness.

“Good storage is essential,” says Victoria. “Rug rails, tack storage and dedicated areas for feed and equipment help prevent items being left around the yard and improve the overall look.

“Small details make a big difference and giving everything a designated place makes the yard easier to keep clean and organised.”

Being smart at the construction stage will help you preserve the new stable look.

“A clean and attractive yard often comes down to choosing materials and accessories that are both practical and easy to maintain,” says Victoria.

“Durable stable finishes, well-designed doors and windows, and hard-wearing infill materials can all help a yard continue to look good with regular use. Powder-coated finishes can provide a consistent colour scheme, while hardwood or recycled plastic infills offer different aesthetic and maintenance options.”

Quick yard hacks to improve aesthetics include…

• Placing hooks strategically for your headcollars, fly masks, grooming kits and other things in use (you just might need to adapt them with a bit of baler twine to hang them with first), hats and coats. You could even add some shelves
• Pop up some wall-mounted broom grips (like these ones on Amazon) to keep your mucking out tools tidy
• Install a foldable wall-mounted saddle rack (I found this one on Amazon) to store your tack tidily before and after you tack up. No more chucking it on the floor or over the stable door!

Construction

You can build a luxury stable from scratch or add elements to existing stables to improve the feel.

Space is the most obvious luxury, and if you can size up from a standard stable (12ftx12ft), your horse will feel the benefits of freedom to move. That’s what Miri Hackett did on her yard, and she told us she noticed a big difference in her horses’ relaxation.

Other construction elements that elevate a box to luxury stable include:

• Adding a canopy. “A canopy provides shade and protection from rain, creating a sheltered area outside the stables where you and your horses can stand comfortably in all weathers,” says a spokesman for Chart Stables.
• Thoughtful consideration of access. “Planning wider walkways, positioning tack and feed rooms where they are easy to reach and ensuring stable doors don't clash when opened can make a significant difference,” says Victoria of Monarch Stables.
• Internal kickboarding. “Fitted around the interior walls, kickboarding absorbs impact and prevents splintering or structural wear,” says the Chart Stables spokesman. “It also creates a smoother, safer surface inside each stall.”

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Designing your own stable yard – and doing it well – means considering what your horses need and making that top of the list.

We know that the happiest horses have the three Fs – freedom, forage and friends – in abundance. But how do you replicate these welfare pillars in a traditional setting where horses have their own stables?

Working with Monarch, Hertfordshire-based holistic horse trainer Miri Hackett forged an innovative solution.

“Horses are herd animals, and it was very important to build spaces that enable herd dynamics while still offering a level of individuality,” she tells Horse & Hound.

“In an ideal world we wouldn’t have stables at all; we would have big barns where horses come and live in herds together.”

However, like many yards, Miri has a high turnover with horses coming in for training and rehab for short periods, so a large herd would be frequently disrupted.

“My reality is that horses often come in with injuries, or underdeveloped social skills,” Miri continues. “So, I needed to balance building a training facility that gave horses their own spaces with fulfilling their social needs.

“Monarch totally delivered my vision – it’s the first design they have done like this.”

Miri’s stables feature a curved partition that is low enough on one side to allow horses to touch noses and groom, then slopes up to full height gradually so horses have free choice to interact – or not – with their neighbours and form important horse friendships.

“When we moved the whole herd to the new place, they settled really quickly because they could all touch, mutually groom and stand with each other.”

Miri says the stable design has contributed to an oasis-like calm in her barn.

“The most of the stables are 14x14’, so they have plenty of room,” she explains. “I think that’s part of it. And I’ve never known horses sleep so much as they do here.

“At the moment, they stay out all night and come in during the day, and once they’ve been fed and done their training, they will often lie flat out snoring. It’s so unbelievably peaceful.”

How to design a stable yard: focus on facilities

The success of Miri’s design comes from thoughtful planning of her stable design ideas and lessons learned from experience.

“I’ve been on quite a few yards, so I know what works and what doesn’t,” she explains. “For example, one place had the tack room miles from the stables. It was nobody’s fault, it was just how it was set up, but it was awkward if you forgot anything.”

Miri’s tack and feed rooms are placed at the front of the barn (left in the image below) with the stables around the edge and in the middle, meaning feed and equipment are always close at hand, and the walkways are wide and inviting.

“I think this helps make it all feel very safe,” she says. “There isn’t anywhere that a horse might feel confined.”

Creating an open and inviting wash bay was another important point for Miri.

“Wash bays are often put in a dark corner out of the way,” she continues. “But I wanted it to feel like this big, lovely, open, safe space right at the front of the barn.

“I worked with Jelka who supplied a lot of rubber matting. We’ve put down this matting that’s grippy but porous, so you don’t get water sitting on top.

“The aim was make sure that horses feel able to rest while they have a bath, not just have to put up with it.”

Sustainability as a horse owner is another of Miri’s priorities, and her arena surface is plastic-free.

“This means we aren’t leeching microplastics into the environment and it is watered from the bottom, so the surface is really consistent.”

What are the challenges faced when designing your own yard?

In Miri’s project, the principal hurdles included:

Finances

“I didn’t want to just go for the cheapest option, and if you want to create something that meets your needs and is built to last, it is going to be expensive.”

The weather

“Building the arena was difficult. We were having to construct it in January and February, which is about as bad as it gets and the mud was terrible.

“As long as you have someone reliable, dedicated and ultra-professional to do your groundwork – we used Elmtree construction – they will get you through it and keep you on top of things.”

Hindsight

“There’s always something you wish you’d thought of, and for me that’s including a grass-free track turnout system. It’s something I want to build in the future, but I just wish I'd included it in the original project.”

Tips for designing your own yard

Miri says that it pays to dedicate a lot of time to planning the yard design.

“If you have an opportunity, really sit down and plan. For years, I hoped I would get the tenancy of this farm. I spent all of that time thinking, ‘OK, where would this go? That could go there, that would go here’.

“If you can, make the stables bigger than you would think. For me, there is no such thing as too big a stable, especially if your horse spends part of his day in there regularly. Making it so horses can touch and be social will make a difference, too.”

While she acknowledges that budgets can be restrictive, Miri says that the cheapest option isn’t always the right choice.

“Get multiple quotes, have conversations, and get people to come and visit and see the site to gain an accurate picture of what they can do. There are so many amazing people out there with a wealth of knowledge and ideas if you let them give their opinion.”

It also pays to be thorough – the right company will relish this.

“I spent a long time going backwards and forwards on things. Monarch went above and beyond when it came to showing me why they were worth what they were asking for.

“They let me go to their factory to see how things were made. They took me to a yard they had built that they thought I would like to see. Most importantly, they came out so many times and looked at the layout, and we played around with it; they were so open to every idea.”

Miri’s ultimate tip is having sight of a prospective company’s existing work.

“There are people out there who will do the work you want for a fair price to a high standard. Having proof of this before you proceed will fill you with confidence and set you up for success.”

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The breeding of Jagerbomb has resulted in one of the most popular dressage horses of recent times.

Jagerbomb was born at Julie Lockey’s Bramley Stud, where he spent his first three years living out, first with his dam Udysee – known as Dolly – and after weaning in a herd of youngsters who came and went from the field as they pleased.

“They liked their creature comforts and being pampered,” Julie says. “But I don’t think putting them in a stable before they’re three is a nice thing for them, so they were all just free spirits.”

“Bomb” wasn’t a head-turner to start with.

“He wasn’t your cute little foal,” says rider Becky Moody, who bred him. “A bit plain, a bit leg-at-each-corner. You certainly wouldn’t have picked him out as a future superstar.”

What he had instead was temperament. Julie remembers him as first to the gate for a stroke, inquisitive and never any trouble.

“He was one of my favourites,” she says. “He had such a niceness about him.”

The day Becky came to collect him in a 3.5t lorry, Julie was certain he’d refuse to load. “I was adamant, ‘Oh, you’ll never get him in that.’ And then he walked straight in. I thought, ‘Well, I’ll shut up now!’

The backing process was also uneventful, says Becky: “He was, honestly, the most straightforward. You could pretty much have just got on without doing any groundwork. He really did take everything in his stride.”

Meet the parents

Becky bought Udysee from the Equine Elite Auction in the Netherlands, where she’d been bred by a Dutch farming family who keep pigs alongside their horses. Becky retired Udysee to the paddocks due to a field injury when on the brink of grand prix.

Becky had originally planned to use Dante Weltino’s sire, Danone.

“He wasn’t available at the time, so we went with his son,” she says. “He really stamps his stock with excellent trainability and a natural ability for collected work.”

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Horses are highly social animals, often forming many strong bonds and friendships over the course of their lifetime. There are clear evolutionary reasons for this, as Dr Claire Ricci-Bonot, a postdoctoral researcher at INRAE (France's National Research Institute for Agriculture, Food and the Environment), explains.

“It’s important to remember that horses are generally gregarious animals who live within complex social systems,” she says. “For them, the group means safety and survival, so their brains are adapted to seek out partners.”

Social interaction is so important for horses, it’s recognised within the five freedoms of equine welfare.

“We know that developing and maintaining social relationships and hierarchical positions are second only to getting food in what horses do all day, given the opportunity,” says equine behaviour consultant Dr Debbie Marsden.

“This is not surprising as for herd animals like horses, ‘fitting in’ and ‘getting along’ is vital for survival, and a network of established relationships is essential to minimise aggression and conserve energy.”

Given horses are hardwired to rely on social bonds for survival, it’s no wonder they’re picky about their friends.

“Horses living in a group tend to have one to three preferred partners; they often spend a lot of time together and synchronise their activities,” says Claire.

But, as anyone who’s ever tried to integrate a new horse into an existing group knows, predicting where horse friendships will blossom isn’t easy. It’s an area of equine behaviour in which Debbie would like to see more research.

“We don’t know which horses will get along or become friends until we put them together,” she says. “It would be really useful to be able to ‘profile’ or predict this.”

Becky Moody on matchmaking equine neighbours and forming horse friendships

For international dressage rider Becky Moody, giving the horses on her yard the opportunity to socialise is important but requires careful matchmaking.

“It can be difficult to manage on a yard like this, as you have a lot of strong characters in your competition horses!” she says. “So I 100% choose carefully. Some horses, when turned out, are relatively solitary, not bothered about the one that’s next to them, and then others spend the entire time playing with each other.”

When Becky put in round pens for winter turnout, socialising was an important factor in their design.

“The pens are in pairs and we have a low bit between them, so the horses can interact and they do spend a lot of time playing with each other. That was really important to me, that they had that opportunity.”

Lizzie Wray is the yard owner at Shadowmere Equine Retirement Livery, Lincs. Whenever a new horse arrives, she uses their 14-day biosecurity procedure to get to know the horse and their personality, before choosing which she thinks is the most suitable group for them to join.

“We then bring the group we think will be good to the next paddock, and let them get to know each other safely, over the fence,” she says. “Once we’re happy, we’ll introduce the newbie into the herd.”

Even then, she doesn’t take any chances.

“Say we’re introducing a fourth horse to an existing group of three, we always have four members of staff on hand in case it doesn’t work and we need to remove the newbie and rethink.

“We have come across ones that hate each other,” she continues. “We’ve got one mare who just doesn’t like this one gelding – she can’t even look at him, the poor boy is doing nothing to her!”

Lizzie says it can take two or three weeks for a group to settle, but if it’s not working, they’ll try something else.

“If they don’t get on, or it’s not meeting their needs, then we’ll try another group.”

Some horses seem to struggle more socially than others.

“It does seem to be a particular characteristic of the bullied animal, not the bullies, but we don’t know how to assess for it,” says Debbie.

“They may just not be giving out the ‘expected’ social signals, or giving out the wrong ones. And there may be as yet unknown pheromonal signs or some other communication we’re not aware of.”

It’s thought poor social skills stem from the horse’s upbringing and a lack of opportunity to interact at an early age, and Debbie says it’s unclear if this can be corrected in later life.

“We don’t know how to teach or improve these social skills, other than by offering varied social experiences in later years.”

A healthy, well-established equine bond is characterised as much by what we don’t see as what we do, which presents a challenge when trying to study it.

“Simple ‘acceptance’ and ‘tolerance’ is a huge part of equine social behaviour. It’s hard for scientists to measure or investigate ‘nothing happening’,” explains Debbie.

“There is probably a lot more communication and subtle social behaviour going on than we are aware of. One thing we do know is that, once established, these relationships last for a great many years.”

For Lizzie, running a retirement livery means facing the inevitable – having to manage a horse whose close companion has died.

“Horses absolutely grieve,” she confirms. “We had two geldings who were particularly drawn to each other and very happy, but the younger one was sadly riddled with arthritis and had to be put to sleep.

“For two weeks afterwards, the surviving gelding was completely off his food and lethargic. We thought he was going to die of a broken heart, but eventually he quietly slipped into the other herd and they seemed to support him.”

Lizzie is a big advocate of allowing horses to see what’s happening when a horse is euthanised, “So they can process it, and they don’t think, where’s he gone?”

Apart from the unavoidable end of life, Lizzie and her team try not to separate any of the horses on their yard.

“These horses are not out competing,” she points out. “They come in through the gates and don’t leave until it’s time for them to be put to sleep. We don’t turn out or bring in alone, and if a horse is on box rest for some reason, they always have a buddy.”

On a busy competition yard, where horses are constantly coming and going, managing attachments requires careful consideration, as five-star event rider Millie Dumas explains.

“You have to find the right groups of horses to take to a show, for example, and sometimes you have to separate horses so that an attachment doesn’t become a performance issue,” she says. “If you want to get the best out of them, they also have to be happy and content in their home environment. We don’t want stressed horses.”

Separation anxiety in horses – what we know

Separation anxiety is something many owners are aware of, but surprisingly little is actually known about it. In her previous role at the University of Lincoln, Claire undertook a study into owners’ experiences of separation anxiety. The results, based on 88 responses, were published earlier this year.

“More than 90% of the respondents believed they had a horse that had suffered with separation anxiety or knew someone owning a horse who they believed had suffered from separation anxiety,” she says. “However, in the scientific literature, little is known about separation anxiety despite it being commonly discussed in the popular press and by owners.

“Our research demonstrated that it’s more complicated than we might think.”

The research found that how separation anxiety manifests differs from horse to horse. It was observed in different contexts, as it depended on whether the horse was being left behind or was actively leaving, and occurred at different points during the process.

“This was separated into ‘during preparation’ for departure, when ‘actively leaving or being left’, when there is an ‘initial barrier to contact’ and finally when there is a ‘loss of contact’,” Claire explains.

“Moreover, we identified several signs potentially associated with separation anxiety, ranging from increased arousal – for example hypervigilance – to apathy.”

The research concluded that care needs to be taken not to overgeneralise.

Claire also points out that more research is needed on how to prevent separation anxiety occurring.

“There’s no scientific literature on the benefits of training horses through graduated periods of controlled isolation to cope with separation from a companion or group,” she says. “Until we get more data, our recommendations remain ‘best guess’.

“However, gradually training young horses to cope with separation as a preventative measure is advisable.”

For Millie, this training is an important part of a horse’s education. She’s seen first-hand the problems that can occur without it.

“We’ve had liveries in the past, often older horses that have perhaps lived their life with one other horse and gone everywhere together. Because they’ve never been taught to be independent, they’ve become insecure without their companion by their side,” she says.

“We’ve managed these types of horses by making sure that they have the right sort of company next door to them, ones who give off a calm demeanour.

“It’s important to teach horses from a young age gradually to be independent as well as have company, to be able to leave it and come back,” she explains.

“We have a lot of young horses and I think it’s really important they learn that, as well as having that downtime where they can socialise with other horses.”

Becky agrees, and adds that hacking can play a big part in this early training.

“We hack all our young ones a lot, they do always hack in pairs and getting each one to walk in front and be confident makes a big difference to how they are at a competition.”

• For unlimited access to advice on how best to care for your horse, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

Water buffets for horses have gained popularity recently thanks to the hot weather – although hydration is also important in winter – but what are they and why do people use them?

Simply put, water buffets involve offering horses multiple water buckets with different extra ingredients in each. Various retailers sell starter kits with herbs and other additions you can put in clean water buckets.

Independent equine nutritionist Clare MacLeod tells us: “Some owners are interested in using them as a way to offer their horses variety and environment enrichment.”

Offering variety, however, does not mean a horse will self-select particular nutrients in accordance with their needs.

“We have to remember that a number of horses and ponies are harmed every year by eating poisonous plants like acorn and ragwort, and some by eating too much grass,” says Clare.

“Self-selection is a nice idea and it is a good thing to offer horses more choice, but we cannot rely on our horses to always know what is good for them, nor be able to select a balanced diet. Researchers have shown that horses will consistently select a sweetened feed over a balanced feed.”

That said, Clare adds that it can be useful for finding out the flavourings your horse likes.

“Knowing what tastes they like means you can replicate their preferences when you are away from home at riding camps, clinics or competitions, when some horses may be reluctant to drink different water.”

What to put in water buffets for horses

Herbs that are commonly added to water buffets include:

• Chamomile
• Ginger
• Turmeric
• Peppermint
• Cleavers
• Fenugreek
• Rosehips
• Dandelions
• Aniseed
• Fennel
• Cinnamon
• Garlic 
• Spirulina
• Cider apple vinegar

Other common additions are clays and a variety of mineral salts, and sometimes fruit and vegetable pieces or fruit juice.

Golden rules of setting up a water buffet

Clare says that, at best, a water buffet adds variety and interest to your horse’s day-to-day. At worst, water buffets for horses can be a breeding ground for bacteria and potentially do more harm than good.

Clare’s rules of thumb to follow when setting up a water buffet are:

1. Keep buckets clean

“When I visit yards, I see a lot of water sources that are unclean,” says Clare. “While horses will happily drink from a puddle, there is a distinction to be made between a pool of natural rainwater and a dirty container of water that is stagnant and stale.

“Keeping buckets of water clean is especially important when you start mixing organic matter. You can create a lot of bacteria, which I’m not sure people always realise.”

According to Clare, horses are particularly susceptible to digestive disturbances, such as colic, due to their delicate digestive tracts.

“Therefore, we want to keep contact with preventable bacteria and potential pathogens to a minimum.”

2. Balance the diet

“Everything a horse ingests should be considered as part of a balanced diet,” says Clare.

“We always need to balance the diet first, considering any extras like what's added to water, then consider adding extras like herbs, which are generally added for their properties, and not essential nutrients.

“Speak to an independent nutritionist about what you plan to use if you aren’t sure.”

3. Plain water is essential

Clean, plain water should be offered at all times and as well as water with added ingredients.

Does a water buffet make horses drink more?

Some owners use water buffets to encourage their horses to drink more water, which could help support good hydration and prevent dehydration.

“We have research that tells us horses prefer things that taste sweet,” she says. “So, if you are in a situation where you really need your horse to drink, adding something sweet like apple juice will likely be the most attractive flavouring.

“Of course, you need to be guided by any underlying conditions your horse or pony might have. You wouldn't want to be tipping an unknown amount of sugar into the water of a horse with equine metabolic syndrome (EMS), which now often described as insulin dysregulation (ID) or hyperinsulinaemia-associated laminitis (HAL), for example.

“If your main aim is to rehydrate your horse, for example after heavy sweating, then the quickest and most efficient way to do this is with an oral rehydration solution (ORS), which has a very specific electrolyte salt content, at 0.9%.”

While she is for anything that represents positive enrichment in a horse’s environment, Clare adds that owners would benefit from ensuring their time is spent doing so in the best possible way for their horses.

“In some cases, the time spent keeping multiple water buffet buckets clean and fresh every day might be better used taking your horse out for more exercise.”

• For unlimited access to advice on how best to care for your horse, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

Small but mighty, miniature horse breeds pack a large punch in a diminutive body. In fact, the world’s smallest horse is a miniature horse breed.

But what is a miniature horse? Aren’t we just talking ponies here?

Is a miniature horse a pony?

Crucially, no. There’s a horse fact for you to break out at parties!

Miniature horses and ponies are two different classifications of equine – it’s all to do with conformation.

Hundreds of years of selective breeding give us the miniature horses we recognise today. Stand a miniature horse next to a pony of the same height, and you’ll soon see the difference.

In general, ponies have short, stocky legs and thicker necks. They usually have a wider barrel compared to horses and have proportionally shorter bodies, too.

In contrast, a miniature horse looks just like a scaled down sport or competition horse. They have proportionally longer bodies and legs, slender necks and elegant heads.

Can you ride miniature horses?

Miniature horse breeds are not commonly used for riding – only a very young child would be small and light enough to do so. They would still need to be backed, trained and selected for an appropriate career like a regular-sized horse.

Many minis are used in driving, showing, and agility, and are also bred as pets and used as therapy animals.

Miniature horse breeds

1. Falabella

Height: 24–28 inches

Weight: 50–80kg

Country of origin: Argentina

This tiny rare horse breed is the world’s smallest, and quite possibly the hardiest because they can withstand extreme temperatures and unforgiving landscapes.

Spanish horses brought to South America from the 16th century represent this breed’s origins. After some of them ended up getting loose and turning feral – even wild – they carved a path to some of the most hard-to-reach areas, such as isolated places outside Buenos Aires. Some of this equine population joined the indigenous Mapuche people.

How did the breed become so small? Generation upon generation was exposed to harsh climates, limited food and scarce water. The Falabella grew smaller and smaller to adapt to these conditions. And, because finding food and water was so tough, they became more intelligent over time in order to survive.

Falabellas were noticed by outsiders in 1845, when Irish settler Patrick Newell observed the remarkably small horses were kept alongside the Mapuche’s riding horses. He and his family took to keeping Falabellas and breeding them. His son-in-law, Juan Falabella, took up the mantle and gave the breed his name.

Juan brought Shetland pony and English thoroughbred blood into the breed to refine the Falabella into what we know today.

2. American Miniature

Height: Less than 34 inches

Weight: 68–136kg

Country of origin: USA

According to the American Miniature Horse Society, American Miniatures are the result of nearly 400 years of selective breeding, with the earliest record of a small horse arriving in the country from overseas appearing in 1888. However, mini horses didn’t land in the wider public consciousness until as late as 1960.

The breed is understood to have been cultivated from the blood of English and Dutch working horses, particularly those put to work in mines (no prizes for guessing why!). These horses arrived in the US in the 19th century and went into the Appalachian Mountains to mine.

There is some evidence that the Shetland pony was also introduced to help achieve the desired miniature stature.

3. Dutch Miniature

Height: 42 inches or less

Weight: 68–159kg

Country of origin: Netherlands

In Dutch, this tiny horse’s name is the Nederlands Minipaard.

With a studbook established in 1993, the original rules for registration with the breed society (Nederlandse Mini Paarden Registratie Stamboek) allowed any horse under 42 inches (106cm) to register. This allowed the inclusion of greater genetic diversity when establishing this miniature horse breed.

Today, foals hoping to enter the stud book must follow much more stringent criteria. This includes having registered parents.

The breed society hosts an annual summer show for all mini breeds in July. There are no ridden classes on the schedule, but participants compete in competitions like showing, jumping and driving.

• For unlimited access to advice on how best to care for your horse, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

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After a busy first half of the season, it’s likely your grooming kit or stripping basket are in need of a refresh – this could be true whether your next stop is an area show or you’re prepping for a week at the Royal International.

From emergency saviours to cheap hacks, we asked some top producers what they can’t live without on show days.

Show kit essentials

Hannah Horton: “I wouldn’t contemplate going showing without good old baby wipes – they can be used for anything. We also make sure we have drinks for humans in the stripping basket.”

Emma Burrows: “For me, I need a good mane and tail detangler, coat gloss and a bit of baby oil gel [like this one] to smooth the hair.”

Danielle Heath: “We love Smart Grooming Super Shine; it’s fantastic on faces and gives a mega shine on bodies, too, especially in an evening performance.”

Joe Watson: “This olive oil sheen spray is brilliant on our natives’ manes and tails especially,” he says, “and we use it as a coat gloss and highlighter, too. It’s not very expensive, which is great as we go through tons of the stuff.”

Leon King: “It has to be this Got2b hair gel for plaiting. We always have Leovet’s Power Phaser fly spray and this Cowboy Magic shampoo as well as their Detangler and Shine on tails; it’s incredible – like nothing else I have tried.”

Sara Parrott: “If I had to choose one product that I couldn’t be without it would have to be Supreme Products’ Sparkle Spray for those last minute finishing touches, manes, coats and tails – and even hooves and rider’s boots at a push!”

Sue-Helen Shuttleworth: “On the lorry we always have a good shampoo to quickly wash and dry if horses need it after travelling or working in. Personally I use Equioils Super Soap, Equioils Whitening Wood Flour and towels.

“In the strip basket there’s always a good, clean damp sponge for wiping away saddle marks before the conformation phase, and a good mane and tail brush.

And there’s always full fat Coke and sweets to keep us going.”

Harrison Taylor: “We use glycerine mixed in water for a sponge over, then Arena Products’ Show Shine spray on top. I also use Arena Products’ Clear Highlighter, which contains SPF for eyes and muzzle, black make up, Brylcreem, hair spray and baby wipes.”

Edward Young: “We always have tea, sugar and milk on the lorry. We also have a portable shower to wash any plaiting gel out of the manes and condition them when we unplait; it must be more comfortable for them, and it stops the mane getting too brittle. In my stripping bucket I carry fly spray, Brylcreem as long as it’s not too hot and sunny, hoof-stain, a good brush and a cloth [like this one].”

Simon Reynolds: “Our basket is like Mary Poppins’ bag; we carry everything we could possibly need as there’s nothing worse than having to go back to the lorry if you have forgotten something. But essentials include wet wipes and plaiting bands, plus electrical tape [like this] can be a great save in an emergency. And I’m diabetic so we always have fizzy sweets, too.”

• For unlimited access to the latest product news, buying guides and reviews, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

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As those living in the UK are in the midst of yet another heatwave, and some water companies have announced hosepipe bans, where does this leave horse owners who are trying to keep horses cool and prevent dehydration?

Currently, some customers of Southern Water, South East Water and Cambridge Water are facing water usage restrictions. Anglian Water customers will also be under restriction from 1am Saturday, 11 July.

Affinity Water has also put a hosepipe ban in place across its Central area, which covers parts of Bedfordshire, Berkshire, Buckinghamshire, Essex, Hertfordshire, Surrey and parts of London – this will come into effect on Friday, 17 July.

Other areas are not currently affected, but some water companies, such as Severn Trent, have asked customers to be mindful of their usage and issued guidance on how to reuse water where possible.

Hosepipe ban exemptions?

The good news is that while the rules outlaw the use of hosepipes for washing cars and watering gardens, the use of a hosepipe for the cleaning, maintenance and general wellbeing of any kind of animal is exempt from hosepipe ban rules.

The Government requires that the welfare of animals must be protected at all times, including during a hosepipe ban – or as it is more correctly called a Temporary Use Ban (TUB).

What is allowed during a hosepipe ban?

Examples of what is allowed under the TUB restrictions include:

• Washing horses down with a hosepipe
• Filling up water troughs and buckets with a hosepipe
• Cleaning out lorries, trailers and stables with a hosepipe

As long as you are genuinely using a hosepipe for the welfare of your horse and not abusing the interpretation of these rules, you should have no concerns. Responsible use of water is encouraged at the stables, as it is in your homes, to avoid putting added pressure on the supply during this period of high temperatures with little no rain forecast.

If you’d like further reassurance or information, you can contact your local water company for clarification.

• For unlimited access to advice on how best to care for your horse, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

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Struggling to work out what to pack for Pony Club camp? You don’t want your child to be missing anything, but you don’t want to send them with everything but the kitchen sink, either. Don’t worry, there’s still plenty of time to prepare and plug any gaps in your kit.

Your Pony Club may have a specific list tailored to their camp, but between the team at H&H, we’ve got many Pony Club camps under our belt – both as children and as parents – so we’re here with plenty of advice and ideas. Our top tip – make sure absolutely everything is named.

Pony Club camp packing list

Because the quintessential Pony Club camp packing list is rather long, we’re going to break it down into categories. We’ll start with the thing you definitely don’t want to leave at home – your pony!

Tack and horsewear

• saddle
• bridle
• neck strap
• martingale (if using)
• girth
• stirrups and leathers
• saddle cloths or numnahs in your branch or centre’s permitted colours – take more than one in case they get dirty or sweaty
• any legwear your pony uses, such as overreach boots, brushing boots or tendon boots
• stud kit (if used)
• headcollar and leadrope
• tail and stable bandages
• tack cleaning equipment, like saddle soap and a sponge
• all your travel kit, to get your pony there in the first place

Pony care

First and foremost, check with your branch or centre about whether they will provide bedding that is suitable for your pony. If not, make sure to pack your own.

Also, check what your pony’s living arrangements will be. Will he be living out, and do you need to bring some electric fencing? Will you have access to a stable? Find out in advance so you can prepare.

You’ll want your own of most things, but you might be able to team up with other campers when it comes to the big items, such as wheelbarrows.

• enough of your pony’s hay/haylage, feed and supplements to last the duration of camp
• feed bin (like this one)
• buckets for water and feed
• haynets
• wheelbarrow, large trug or garden bag (like this one) for mucking out
• mucking out tools
• grooming kit with all your brushes
• sweat scraper and sponge
• stud kit, if needed
• your best horse shampoo
• fly spray
• horse sun cream, if needed
• other grooming sprays if you use them, like mane and tail detangler or stain remover
• rugs, such as a cooler or fly rug and fly mask if needed

Rider kit

If you plan to stay overnight, pack accordingly for your accommodation. You may want a warm layer or two if you are camping!

• Pony Club sweatshirt
• Pony Club tie
• white shirts
• a few pairs of jodhpurs or riding tights (usually beige, black or navy, check your branch or centre’s rules)
• tweed or show jacket (if needed)
• plenty of riding socks and underwear
• riding boots, either long or short with jodhpur clips or chaps/gaiters
• hairnet and scrunchie (if needed)
• riding gloves
• whip
• up-to-standard and tagged riding hat
• up-to-standard body protector
• casual tops and bottoms for off-horse activities
• coveralls or waterproof trousers for mucking out
• stout boots or wellies for the yard
• trainers or comfy shoes for off the yard
• sun hat
• waterproof coat
• pyjamas

Other essentials

• toiletries
• sun lotion
• insect repellent
• prescription medication (if used)
• pillow and sleeping bag
• camp bed (like this one, if needed) or airbed
• towels
• plate, mug and cutlery for mealtimes (if needed)
• boot cleaning equipment
• notebook and pen
• Pony Club Manual of Horsemanship
• water bottle
• small personal first aid kit
• torch
• watch or alarm clock

Extras

• pack of cards
• book to read (check out the best horse books for kids)
• torch
• small amount of money for tuck
• hand sanitiser
• hair bobbles
• swimming kit, if required
• portable fan, for you or your pony if it’s hot
• portable power bank (like this one)

For unlimited access to the latest product news, buying guides and reviews, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

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A veterinary professional may want to see your horse trot up for a number of reasons, but what’s the best way to do it?

A good trot-up gives the observer a clear view of the horse moving in a straight line and in balance, so their gait can be assessed.

Primarily, vets use trot-ups to check for soundness. Because the trot is an even gait, with legs moving in diagonal pairs, it’s easier to spot lameness or uneven loading of the limbs than in walk or canter.

When are horses trotted up for vets?

Vets might wish to see horses trotted up as part of:

• a lameness examination, in which further tests, such as flexion tests, lungeing and a ridden exam might also be carried out
• a pre-purchase examination, in which a vet is employed to assess the horse’s physically suitablity for a buyer
• an FEI competition of any discipline to check the horses are fit to compete. At three-day events, there are two horse inspections: one before the dressage phase, and another following the cross-country phase. Horses have to pass both to be allowed to compete

The holding box

At an FEI event, the ground jury and veterinary delegate will pass a horse following a trot up or send him to a holding box for further examination.

The vet in the holding box performs a more thorough examination, including palpation and assessment of the horse’s limbs, to help identify any injuries — such as tendon injuries — that would prevent him from continuing in the competition.

A horse who has sustained a small overreach injury during the cross-country, for example, or who has pulled a shoe off, may appear slightly unlevel. After veterinary assessment, however, he may be deemed fit to complete a round of showjumping.

Some horses are then represented at the trot-up, while others might withdraw from competition at the holding box.

Equipment to use to trot your horse up for the vet

Be ready to trot your horse up with:

• a well-fitting bridle, headcollar or halter
• stout, appropriate footwear, such as yard boots
• a riding hat
• riding gloves
• a schooling whip, if needed

How to trot up a horse for the vet

Before considering how to trot up a horse, first select your surface. It should be level and not too loose, slippery or stony.

• Stand your horse square. This allows the vet to walk around and examine the horse’s posture from every angle. Hold the reins in your right hand as if you were riding one-handed.
• Trot the horse away as straight as you can, keeping an even rhythm and ensuring he has enough rein to move his head freely so the vet can see any abnormalities. Your horse should be active, but not too fast.
• The vet may signal when they want you to turn and trot towards them, or if you’re unsure you can ask them to call out.
• Ask your horse for a walk transition a few steps prior to turning. When you turn, your horse should always turn away from you to avoid being trodden on. Guide the horse towards you slightly before asking him to turn away. This will enable you to trot back on the same line.
• Keep the horse straight towards the vet, but ensure you have sufficient control so as not to run them over.

It is worth clarifying whether the vet wants to see your horse walk first. If so, use the steps above in walk.

Furthermore, it is good to clarify how to trot up for the vet in particular. Some want to see the transition from trot to walk in front of them. You should make this transition very obvious.

If you have a young or inexperienced horse, practise the routine of trotting up so that when you need to do so you can produce a good, straight trot for your vet without any hassle. If you’re preparing to trot up at a competition, it’s worth you and your horse learning to trot correctly as a horse who is poorly presented may look uneven, even if he isn’t.

• For unlimited access to advice on how best to care for your horse, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

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When Becky Moody and Jagerbomb flew home from their FEI Dressage World Cup final win in Fort Worth, Texas, the celebrated gelding looked, by every outward measure, completely fine. He had a week off in the field, a fortnight of gentle hacking, and was – as she told The Horse & Hound Podcast – “bright as a button and happy”. But the data picked up something his demeanour didn’t.

How does monitoring horse sleep work?

At home, Becky works with EquiConnect, a vet-built AI stable-camera system installed in 12 stables in one of her barns. The cameras monitor sleep patterns – distinguishing between sternal lying, where a horse rests upright, and lateral lying, when they are “flat out and actually getting proper sleep” – as well as how long each horse spends eating and how active they are through the night.

Horses sleep only a few hours a day, most of it standing, thanks to the stay apparatus – a system of tendons and ligaments that lets them doze upright without tiring.

But they can only reach REM (rapid eye-movement) sleep, the deep restorative stage, when lying fully flat in lateral recumbency, because that phase involves a complete loss of muscle tone.

Vets generally cite a need for around 30-60 minutes of lying down a day to get enough REM sleep, and horses that can’t, or won’t, lie down – whether through pain, stress or an unfamiliar environment – can become REM-sleep deprived.

For Jagerbomb, that data proved illuminating. “He only ever sleeps at night – he never lies down during the day,” Becky explains. “So you can’t really know what his sleeping is like unless you’re looking at the camera information.”

And what the information showed, once he was home from the States, was a horse working hard to recover from his travels across the Atlantic.

“It took him about 16 or 17 days to get back to his normal sleeping patterns at home,” Becky says. Across that recovery period, the cameras logged him catching up dramatically: “He was sometimes sleeping five times what he would normally have slept.”

It is the kind of insight that would be invisible to even the most attentive horseperson. Jagerbomb was away for close to two weeks in total – the same long journey out reversed on the way back, with overnight stops at Liège and Dover – and the after-effects on his rest ran far longer than his outward demeanour suggested.

Why over-competing concerns Becky Moody

For Becky, the data underlines something she already felt strongly about: the hidden toll of travel and competition, and the importance of not asking too much of a horse.

“When we talk about horse welfare, this is one of the things that I think is really relevant,” she says.

Even a relatively standard trip carries a significant load. Travelling to an international show such as Rotterdam – where Becky is speaking to us from – can mean a horse spending well over eight hours on the lorry in a single day, she points out, once ferry queues and French customs (“anything between 50 minutes and three hours”) are factored in.

“I can pretty much, even without the data, know that he doesn’t sleep at a show like he sleeps at home,” she says.

Her response has been to build in a more deliberate recovery. After a major effort, Jagerbomb is given an easy couple of weeks: time in the field, or a few days off, followed by gentle hacking.

Becky’s careful to say there is no single rule. Some horses benefit from a fuller calendar, gaining confidence and learning to settle in the competition environment.

But the difference between a local outing and several days of championship-level sport is, she stresses, enormous. “You have to know your horse and what you’re doing and what is best for them,” she says.

It’s a philosophy now backed by hard data – and one she sums up simply: she is “quite a big one for not over-competing”.

• For more insight from top riders and trainers, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

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Do you have a handle on the world’s rare horse breeds?

All over the world lie elusive and rare breeds that you should definitely know about, many of which are British native breeds. Organisations such as the Rare Breeds Survival Trust (RBST) and individual breed societies oversee populations and campaign for the breeds’ conservation.

Here, we bring you a selection of rare horse breeds from across the globe, and some interesting facts about them…

Rare British horse breeds

1. The Dales pony

• Height: 14hh–14.2hh
• Colour(s): black, brown, grey, bay and roan
• Place of origin: the Pennines region
• RBST status: Priority breed

The Dales pony is native to the upper dales of the eastern slopes of the Pennine range, from the High Peak in Derbyshire to the Cheviot Hills near the Scottish Border.

The breed originates from the crossing of Scotch Galloways used for pack work in the 17th Century, and native mares. According to the Dales Pony Society: “it was that the black Galloways of the mixed herds eventually superseded the Scotch Galloway, and eventually became the Dales Pony through a series of improvements from several sources.”

Bloodlines from the now extinct regional trotter (or roadster) breeds also helped develop the Dales pony we know and love today.

According to the Dales Pony Society: “the combination of strength, agility, thrift, hardiness and high courage, with good conformation and a calm, intelligent nature, makes the Dales Pony a first-class riding and driving pony with all the abilities of a true all-rounder.”

2. The Cleveland Bay

• Height: 16hh–16.2hh
• Colour(s): traditionally bay with black points, with a small white star the only permitted white marking
• Place of origin: the Cleveland Hills, Yorkshire
• RBST status: Priority breed

The Cleveland Bay horse can be traced back to the Chapman horse of the 17th century. According to the Rare Breeds Survival Trust, it is the oldest established native British breed.

In former times, the only acceptable colour was solid bay in colour with no white with the possible exception of a very small star. Nowadays, horses with white hairs exceeding this breed standard can still be registered to protect their genetic value to the breed. However, their passport/studbook will note the deviation.

Initially bred in the Cleveland Hills, farmers used Cleveland Bays on the land, for riding and as pack animals.

The Cleveland Bay Horse Society acts as guardian of the breed. Formed in 1884 to preserve and promote the breed, it continues its role today.

The Royal family have given the breed a great boost. The late Queen’s grandfather had been a breeder of Cleveland bays in the 1920’s, and The late Queen purchased a Cleveland Bay colt named Mulgrave Supreme. They have been known to pull Royal carriages.

3. The Exmoor pony

• Height: 12hh–13.2hh
• Colour(s): bay, brown or black, typically with pale points (mealy markings) on the face, especially around the eyes, flanks and inside the legs
• Place of origin: Exmoor, Devon
• RBST status: Priority breed

Ponies have been on Exmoor since ancient times, and this environment shaped their size, characteristic hardiness, independent spirit and native intelligence. Many consider Exmoor ponies one of the country’s oldest pony breeds, roaming the land for approximately the last 5,000 years.

In 1818, the crown sold the Royal Forest of Exmoor to industrialist John Knight. The outgoing Warden, Sir Thomas Acland, took 30 of the ponies and founded the Acland herd (now known as the Anchor herd) running on Winsford Hill. Farmers from Withypool and Hawkridge, who had worked for the warden, also bought stock at the dispersal sale and founded several herds which still exist.

Although some breed Exmoor ponies on studs throughout the country, herds of semi-feral free-ranging ponies still run on the moor.

The late 1940s nearly saw the demise of the Exmoor pony.

Today, while still a rare breed, they are a popular riding pony for children and small adults.

4. The Eriskay pony

• Height: 12hh–13.2hh
• Colour(s): grey, occasionally black or bay
• Place of origin: Eriskay, Outer Hebrides
• RBST status: Priority breed

The Eriskay pony is among the last surviving remnants of the original native ponies of the Western Isles of Scotland.

Essential to the crofting community, this breed was instrumental in the retrieval of seaweed and peat for fertiliser and fires. People also used them for transport and all kinds of farm work.

Unfortunately, like many rare horse breeds, the Eriskay declined in the 19th century due to the advent of farm machinery. By the early 1970s, there were only 20 pure-breds on the remote island of Eriskay, so a dedicated group of people got together in an attempt to increase numbers. The Eriskay Pony Society was founded in 1995.

According to the breed society, there are around 420 Eriskays left in the world.

5. The Suffolk Horse

• Height: 16.1hh–17.2hh
• Colour(s): chestnut, from dark liver to light red
• Place of origin: Suffolk, England
• RBST status: Priority breed

The Suffolk horse is the oldest breed of heavy horse to exist in its present form. They are also known as the Suffolk Punch. In local Suffolk dialect, their chestnut colour is called ‘chesnut’ without the ‘t’.

The earliest stud book of any heavy horse breed, and all modern Suffolks, are descended from just one horse, Crisp’s Horse of Ufford, which was born in 1768.

During the First World War, the strong horse was a popular working animal. Consequently, there were 1000s of Suffolks residing throughout East Anglia. They were known for their ability to be used for draught work and forestry

The rare breed declined rapidly when farmers swapped horses for tractors and machinery, and in 1966 there were only nine Suffolk foals registered.

Today, they are a popular cross to produce heavy sports and show horses, and they are being increasingly seen in ridden heavy horse classes.

6. The Hackney

• Height: 12.2hh–14hh (pony), 14hh–16.2hh (horse)
• Colour(s): solid colours, such as black, bay and chestnut, with white markings
• Place of origin: Norfolk and Suffolk
• RBST status: Priority breed

The Hackney had its origins in the Norfolk and Yorkshire Roadsters (trotting horses) of the 18th and 19th centuries, but is first mentioned in medieval times.

Early thoroughbred stallions had a great influence on the breed. According to the RBST: “Following improvements in the roads during the 16th and 17th century there was an increased demand for carriage horses and the highest status symbol was to be seen out in a stylish equipage with proud high-stepping horses.”

Known to trot at high speed for extended periods, these slender, muscular and elegant animals were perfect for the job. In 1883, the Hackney Horse Society and Stud Book was formed.

The signature high-stepping action characterises both the horse and pony versions of the breed. Efforts to preserve the breed include highlighting its versatility as a driving, riding and show horse.

Rare horse breeds from around the world

7. The Sorraia

• Height: 13.3hh–14.4hh
• Colour(s): dun of all kinds with primitive markings
• Place of origin: Portugal

Sorraia horses are a remnant population of an indigenous, South Iberian wild horse, which survived in the formerly inaccessible lowlands of the river Sorraia in Portugal until the early 1900s.

The Iberian scientist and horse expert Dr Ruy d’Andrade discovered these horses in 1920 and is responsible for their preservation.

Occasionally, locals caught the horses to train for herding and farming. However, the population is largely feral.

Today, there are only 200–300 Sorraias. Private owners hold most of this population.

All Sorraias descend from only 11 or 12 animals that d’Andrade secured in the 1930s, and in-breeding is therefore incredibly high.

8. The American Cream Draft Horse

• Height: 13.5hh–16.3hh
• Colour(s): pale cream to gold with a white mane and tail
• Place of origin: Iowa, US

The American Cream Draft is a relatively new breed and is the only draft breed to have originated in the United States. Varying reports say there are between 250 and 400 in the world.

Many believe that the Cream traces its roots back to a draft-type mare named Old Granny. She is believed to have been foaled around the turn of the last century in Iowa and was cream in colour.

Gaining popularity in the 1930s, an owner called Clarence T Rieson was especially proactive in breeding Creams. Sadly, they became popular just as mechanisation began making working horses obsolete.

The American Cream Draft Horse was recommended for recognition by the National Stallion Enrolment Board in 1948. In 1950 they were recognised as standard by the Iowa Board of Agriculture.

9. The Curly Horse (American Bashkir Curly Horse)

• Height: 14hh–16hh
• Colour(s): any
• Place of origin: Nevada, US

While there is no real limit to a Curly Horse’s size, colour and type, all carry a gene for a unique curly coat of hair.

Curlies are claimed to be the only hypoallergenic horse breed. They originated in North America with less than 1000 in the world today. Some say that a man named Peter Damele discovered them at the turn of the 20th century. He spotted curly-coated horses while riding out in the Nevada desert.

The American Bashkir Curly Registry, the first breed registry, formed in 1971.

Most of today’s curly horses have ancestry to one or more of the three stallions Copper D, Curly Jim or Eli Bad Warrior’s sire (name unknown).

The British Curly Horse and Pony society was founded in 2010.

10. The Marwari Horse

• Height: 14hh–15.1hh
• Colour(s): any
• Place of origin: Marwari (Jodhpur)

The Marwari Horse descends from the mounts of the Rajput warriors. A slender, elegant horse, it is recognisable for its inward-turned ear tips, which sometimes touch. With their lineage traced back to Arabian and Mongolian horses, this detail could link them to the Kathiawari horse.

The breed sadly fell out of favour with British colonisers, who preferred the thoroughbred.

Because the breed was rare and faced extinction, an export ban was placed in the 1930s and no Marwari horses were able to leave India. In 2000, Francesca Kelly in the United States received the first shipment of six horses.

Today, the breed is still rare with fewer than 5,000 purebred horses in the entire world.

11. German Black Forest Horse

• Height: 14.2hh–16hh
• Colour(s): chestnut (any shade) with a flaxen mane and tail
• Place of origin: The Black Forest, southern Germany

This striking, cold-blooded, light draft horse originates from the Black Forest of southern Germany, where breeding dates back to the 15th century. The records of the Abbey of Saint Peter in the Black Forest.

A versatile breed, they were originally used for farm work and forestry. Today, many people ride and drive them.

The rare German Black Forest Horse has many names. These include Schwarzwälder Füchs, Schwarzwälder Kaltblut, Wälder Horse, and Saint Märgener.

As of 2017, it was recorded that there was a population of 88 stallions and 1,077 mares, and one of the key breeding programmes is at the Marbuch Stud horse farm in Germany.

12. The Canadian Horse

• Height: 14hh–16hh
• Colour(s): most commonly black, but other colours appear
• Place of origin: Quebec, Canada

The Canadian Horse became the country’s national horse in 2002 and is registered as ‘at risk’ by Heritage Livestock Canada due to dwindling numbers. There are around 6,000 animals globally.

Canadian horses descend from a load of Spanish, Norman and Breton-bred horses sent to Canada in 1665 by King Louis XIV to his subjects in New France. From those foundation horses, a distinct breed of horse emerged, and became known as ‘Le Petit Cheval de Fer’ or ‘The Little Iron Horse’.

The Canadian Horse Breeders Association says the breed is known for “its calm and willing disposition, excellent feet, stamina and strength”. Additionally, the breed is understood to have influenced the Morgan horse.

13. The Caspian Horse

• Height: 10hh–12hh
• Colour(s): any solid colour
• Place of origin: ancient Persia (modern day Iran)

Caspian horses average only 11.2hh but despite their height, they considered horses rather than ponies due to their conformation.

The rare horse breed dates back to ancient Persia, at least as far as 3,000 B.C. Experts now believe the Caspian to be the forerunner to the Arab horse and therefore to most of the hot-blooded horses in existence today.

Caspians have spectacular action as well as speed. The breed underwent a resurgence when native Virginian Louise Firouz and her Iranian husband Narcy began a breeding programme, hearing the Caspian was an ideal horse for children.

In the 1970s, the late Prince Philip received a breeding pair of Caspians and conservation developed in the UK. There are fewer than 500 in Britain, and around 2,000 worldwide.

14. The Newfoundland Pony

• Height: 11–14hh
• Colour(s): bay, black, brown, chestnut, dun, grey, roan and white only
• Place of origin: Newfoundland, Canada

According to the Newfoundland Pony Society: “The Newfoundland Pony is known for its strength, courage, intelligence, obedience, and common sense.”

During the later part of the 20th century, the estimated population of 12,000 (1970s) dropped to fewer than 100 in the 1980s.

In 1997, the provincial government of Newfoundland passed the Heritage Animals Act of Newfoundland and Labrador. This Act provided legal protection to the Newfoundland Pony by making it illegal to transport Newfoundland Ponies off the Island without export permits. The Act also designated the Newfoundland Pony Society as the public group responsible for registering, promoting and protecting the Newfoundland Pony.

Truly one of the most rare horse breeds, there are an estimated 500–600 animals in Canada and the US.

15. Akhal-Teke

• Height: 14.2hh–16hh
• Colour(s): any colour with a metallic sheen, but frequently palamino, cremello and perlino with pale eyes
• Place of origin: Karakum desert, Turkmenistan

Developed for endurance and speed, the Akhal-Teke is one of the oldest domesticated horse breeds, with links as far back as a 6th-century Siberian burial site. Here, archaeologists discovered equine remains similar to the Akhal-Teke. According to legend, Macedonian King Alexander the Great once rode them.

In 1881, Turkmenistan became a part of the Russian Empire and the first official breeding farms of Akhal-Tekes were established. Numbers declined due to the turmoil that marked the early days of Soviet Russia.

The breed came to the United States in 1972. In the same year, the breed registry began with the founding of the Akhal-Teke Association of America.

This rare horse breed possesses great athletic ability and crossing with thoroughbreds and sport horses is common. There are an estimated 6,600 in the world.

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The best way to cool horses is sometimes debated in the equestrian community. Thankfully, there is a straight answer to the constant discussion between horse owners of to scrape or not to scrape – and it’s backed by science.

Heat is a major by-product of energy production and muscle function during exercise, with the amount of heat generated increasing in line with the intensity of a horse’s work. Therefore, cooling after the exertion of competition is extra important. But why?

The best way to cool horses can save lives

During exercise, a horse only uses a small proportion of stored energy to work his muscles. The rest is lost as heat through the metabolism of the stored energy. This causes heat build-up in the body, so controlling that body temperature, i.e. cooling the horse, is essential to avoid heat exhaustion.

A horse’s normal core body temperature at rest should be between 37.5°C and 38.5°C. When this rises to a dangerous level above 41°C to 42°C, you will see side effects and signs of heat exhaustion. These can range from excessively high heart and respiratory rates to dehydration, fatigue and poor recovery from exercise.

If left untreated, heat exhaustion can develop into heatstroke — a condition in which the body is unable to regulate its own temperature. This can ultimately lead to multi-organ dysfunction, including kidney and liver failure, abnormal heart rhythm, loss of coordination and, in severe cases, death.

The power of evaporation

Evaporative cooling — losing heat through the skin by sweating — is the most important way a horse controls his body temperature during and after exercise. Water from sweat evaporates into the air, taking heat energy with it.

Additionally, about 30% of heat loss occurs through the lungs and respiratory tract during normal breathing.

These methods of heat loss are at their most efficient when the difference between the skin temperature and the surrounding air temperature is greatest, such as in cool, dry weather.

Cooling by sweat evaporation is less effective in hot and humid conditions, because the surrounding air is already saturated with water. That means the difference between air and skin temperature is minimal, so evaporation is much less effective.

Sweat starts to drip from the body but removes just 5-10% of the heat that would have been lost through evaporation.

Should you scrape a horse off after hosing?

While scraping water off a warm horse will do him no harm, it will slow the cooling process in a dangerously hot horse. Therefore, the best way to cool horses at the end of intense exercise or competition is to apply copious amounts of cold water over his whole body, without scraping it off.

But how does this work?

Research has shown that applying cold water (9°C) to a horse after exercise in hot, humid conditions helps bring core body temperature back down to normal faster than using tepid (31°C) water. Cold water has no negative effect, such as increasing the risk of tying-up.

How to explain the scraping myth? Water is a good conductor of heat, which is why cold water on a hot horse heats up – the horse is losing body heat to the water. Some owners might infer this means that the hot water is insulating the horse, but this isn’t true.

Then, the horse is cooled further as the water evaporates, because evaporation cools the surface the water is sitting on.

Along with a team of researchers, Dr David Marlin undertook extensive study in this area leading up to the 1996 Atlanta Olympic Games.

He says: “When faced with a horse that is moderately to dangerously hot after exercise or a horse that isn’t coping in hot weather even at rest, the most effective and safe way to cool is to apply water all over the body.

“Any water cooler than the horse – ideally less than 25°C – will work. The cooler the water the better and quicker the horse will cool down. The best indicator of body temperature and how effective your cooling is, is actually the horse’s breathing rate and how hot they feel to touch.

“Don’t concentrate on specific areas of the body – just apply water continuously either with buckets or a hose from the neck to the tail. Don’t scrape as this wastes time better served applying more cool or cold water and actually results in the surface warming up.”

How to keep competition horses cool

In addition to continuous cooling by applying cold water without scraping, other good ways to keep horses cool include:

• keeping them in shade as much as possible
• using a misting fan – you’ll find these most often at elite events
• ensuring they appropriately fit – fitness and acclimatisation to local weather conditions are additional key factors in avoiding heat stress
• maintaining a healthy weight and body condition score – an overweight horse will struggle more
• helping with electrolytes – electrolyte supplements help to keep your horse hydrated, and a hydrated horse can cool regulate their temperature better
• using ice boots to cool legs – some evidence states cold therapy has a positive effect on tissue metabolism and enzyme activity when skin temperature is reduced to 10°C or when joints are reduced to 30°C. However, ice must be applied thoughtfully and at reasonable intervals to avoid freezer burn

How to tell if a horse has heatstroke

Ambient temperature and humidity levels in the UK rarely reach those of more tropical climates. However, signs of heat exhaustion are not uncommon in horses competing here in the summer — particularly if the weather suddenly becomes hotter.

Signs of heat exhaustion include:

• prolonged and delayed recovery (beyond 10 to 20 minutes after the end of the competition)
• persistently elevated heart and breathing rates
• continued, excessive sweating
• shaking
• weakness
• loss of awareness of surroundings

Ongoing increases in rectal temperature after the end of exercise are a strong indicator of heat stress and the potential to develop heat stroke.

In its most severe form, this can leave a horse unable to sweat, reluctant to drink water or to walk. It can cause staggering, depression and collapse – even death.

Urgent cooling and appropriate veterinary treatment, including intravenous fluids in some cases, is vital.

Correction: 29 June, 2026

This article was first published on 25 June 2026 and it contained an error that stated Dr David Marlin had published a study showing that cold hosing the legs of leisure horses resulted in reducing the subjects’ temperatures. The study was not published by Dr Marlin and he does not endorse this as a cooling method. His position is that effective cooling involves applying cool of cold water over the horse’s entire body, without scraping the water away between applications.

• For unlimited access to advice on how best to care for your horse, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

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Summer horse care hacks are about so much more than keeping cool. During the season, you want to make the most of the long daylight hours with time at yard and streamline your time at home. You want to keep pesky insects away (using the best fly sprays), avoid sun damage (with sun cream for you and sun cream for your horse), and it might be useful to lighten your mental load with some organisation ideas.

Without further ado, here are some of the summer horse care hacks I recommend to guarantee a smoother season. The best part? Some of the bits and pieces I’ve picked out to help you through summer also have discounts as part of Amazon Prime Day, which ends today (26 June).

Summer horse care hacks and tips you need to try

1. Flies, begone!

Don’t worry, I’m not about to tell you to use fly spray – you definitely already know that! But flies don’t just annoy horses, they annoy us too. Therefore, you also deserve insect repellent!

As well as for hacking, I used this Jungle Formula on a trip to India a while back and don’t recall getting bitten at all, so it’s decent stuff.

While you’re at it, why not pick up a magnetic fly curtain to keep winged pests out of your tack room? I have a set that I use to keep bugs out of my home – being able to keep the door open in the evening without stressing about moths and other flies is genuinely amazing.

2. Make aircon a reality

Whether for your tack room or for use at home, a portable air conditioning unit is a must when heatwaves land – and you just know the next one isn’t far away.

I bought this Delonghi compact air conditioner last year and honestly haven’t looked back. I no longer fear a heatwave and get plenty of sleep to be on my A game for my horse. My miniature schnauzer also absolutely loves it, so if you have a lorry dog who needs a cooldown, I would highly recommend.

Portable air cons are a bit of an investment, but I promise your comfort is completely worth it. Or, if you’re not quite ready to commit to several hundreds of pounds, a tower fan (like this one) will certainly tide you over.

3. No more heavy hauling

Have you seen these fold-away carts around and about? Some people load their kids into them, others will trundle a picnic to the park, but I say: these babies belong on the yard.

Pile them with haynets, take them to shows, or finally make it from the tack room or feed room to your horse in the elusive single trip with feed, hay, tack and rugs all safely ensconced within.

4. Cue the music

Long summer days are begging to be spent at the yard. Personally, I love poo-picking as a summer activity, and taking a bluetooth speaker (I have this one) can crank up the good times.

Worried about phone battery? Pack yourself a power bank (like this one) for peace of mind.

5. Get savvy with storage

Winter rugs clogging your tack room? And, at home, are you sick of the sight of your long riding coats and waterproof breeches?

Use these vacuum compaction bags to store them without taking up space. You’re welcome!

Need something to store your rugs in? Check out this massive plastic storage chest.

6. Happy hosing

A hosepipe without an attachment is awkward to use – using your finger over the end only goes so far. Instead, try this hose attachment with loads of settings to cool your horse.

Not only that, there’s a reservoir for your pick of the best horse shampoo that will make bathing your horse easier than ever.

7. I’m a “fan” of this one…

Airflow in the stable is the thing to help keep your horse cool while he’s in. What’s more, a gentle breeze can also disrupt midge flightpaths, meaning they leave your horse alone.

You’ll want a portable fan (like this one) to help achieve this. They can be hung or stood on the floor and many have great battery life, so you don’t need to worry about having any power.

Want to cool down on the go? I just discovered this Shark Chill Pill hi-speed personal misting fan – I can see it being a hit at summer shows like the Royal International. If you want something at a cheaper price point, this personal fan is in the Prime Day sale.

8. Slip, slap, slop

Sun protection is an essential summer horse care hack, but it’s super important for humans, too. I always take suncream with me to the yard on summer days for top-ups, especially to my face.

This viral sun cream is currently in the Prime Day sale and one of my faves.

• For unlimited access to the latest product news, buying guides and reviews, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

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When temperatures rise, ensuring your horse stays cool, comfortable and hydrated on the move becomes a little more complicated. Here’s how to succeed

Travelling horses in hot weather isn’t impossible, but it requires thoughtful preparation to ensure equine welfare is maintained.

In the UK, professional transporters are not allowed to move horses in temperatures exceeding 30°C – and this is a good rule of thumb for private owners to follow.

Tips for travelling horses in hot weather

Here’s how to best ensure equine welfare when transporting horses in hot weather.

1. Do your homework

Try to plan your travel around the weather conditions and avoid travelling during high temperatures and high humidity. If it is unavoidable, pick the times of day when it’s likely to be coolest.

Setting off early in the morning, for example, will make the experience much more pleasant for both you and your horse.

2. Plan ahead

Before setting off, ensure horses are fully hydrated by providing them with unrestricted access to forage and water for at least six hours with plenty of space to rest and relax.

3. What to wear?

While you might usually reach for one of the best travel rugs for a journey, it’s unlikely to be needed in hot weather. Any equipment on the horse’s body may contribute to overheating, the risks are likely to outweigh the benefits on a hot day.

Also consider leg protection. Thick travel boots may cause sweating, when a lighter pair of breathable brushing boots or cross-country boots combined with over-reach boots on all four legs will offer a basic level protection for a horse who typically travels well.

4. Prepare for the worst

While it sounds pessimistic, when travelling by road you just never know when or for how long you might get held up. Therefore, make sure you have plenty of forage and water on board for top-ups to keep your horses happy and healthy, and be confident you know what to do if you find yourself stuck on the road with a horse.

5. Provide good-quality forage

Access to quality forage will help maintain a healthy digestive system and provide an ongoing source of energy, as well as creating a small reservoir of fluid in the horse’s gut to help keep them hydrated.

You could also give a small fibre feed ahead of travel for this reason.

6. Boost airflow

Opening the rear section of a trailer helps draw hot air out while fresh air is pulled in through the windows. But avoid travelling with the front door above the ramp open as there is a risk of flying debris being blow into your horse’s face.

If you have a roof vent, open this at the back, as it also draws warm air up and out of the transport while you are driving. You can also use clip-on portable fans to help keep air circulating.

7. Stick to frequent watering intervals

In normal conditions, horses should be offered water at least every four and a half hours while travelling. In hot weather, that interval should be shorter.

This is at your discretion, but use what you know. How hot and dry is it? Has your horse eaten and drunk well in the hours before setting off? Is he sweaty? Is he overweight? All these factors will help you decide how frequently to stop and offer water.

8. Make water tempting

Anyone who has offered their horse a drink in an unfamiliar place will know that horses can be choosy about the type of container they will drink from and the taste of the water. However, it’s important to stress that this doesn’t mean they’re not thirsty.

If possible, try and take water from home in a large capacity container (like this one) and provide it in a bucket they are used to drinking from.

Additionally, it’s always beneficial to familiarise them to different containers in case you can’t take your own. You can also try flavouring the water with apple juice.

9. Minimise stress

Horses can become dehydrated more quickly when they are stressed or unsettled so try to minimise this wherever possible.

Loading and unloading are two of the main stressors for horses when travelling so make sure you do as much as you can to keep the process calm and relaxed.

Practising often without the pressure of heading to a show or event will help it become second nature.

When you are on a schedule, leave plenty of time to load to avoid time pressure.

Ensure the vehicle is well ventilated and drive carefully to make the journey as comfortable as possible.

10. Prepare for the arrival

As with pre-planning before a journey, it’s just as important to give plentiful forage and water upon arrival at your destination. If you’re travelling to a show or event then make sure your horse has time to relax, graze, eat hay and drink before competing or beginning exercise. You could also feed a rehydration mash.

Risks of travelling horses in hot weather

Dehydration is the greatest risk and can affect any horse.

Signs of dehydration include:

• fatigue
• weakness
• dullness
• loss of performance
• decreased appetite
• abnormal drinking, such as taking longer than usual draughts or gulping
• infrequent urination
• dark urine
• red or congested mucus membranes

Recommended ways to prevent or correct dehydration include:

• making clean, fresh water available at all times
• offering additional water sources with an electrolyte supplement
• administering electrolytes around two hours before travel
• feeding haylage, which has a higher moisture content than hay, or using soaked hay if appropriate
• standing your horse in the shade as much as possible
• offering water after exercise and packing a rehydration mash to administer if necessary

For unlimited access to advice on how best to care for your horse, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

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Topspin is a second-generation home-bred who fulfilled a grandmother’s dreams, most recently carrying Alice Casburn to take the under-25 national championship at Bramham.

Alice was six years old when Topspin arrived in the world, a giant fourth foal from his 15.3hh mother Capriati. He still lives in the stable where he was born.

“Mum’s room had a TV where we could watch the foaling,” Alice says. “I wasn’t that interested in horses then, but foals were exciting.”

Although Alice describes Spin as her mother Caroline’s “favourite child”, he lived up to his name from the outset.

“He was so sharp, I was forever falling off,” says Caroline. “Friends were always catching him and picking me up. But from the start, he felt like he could jump anything.”

Caroline produced Spin mainly for showjumping, handing over the reins to Alice to event – and credits her “short body and long legs” for enabling her to sit his spins.

“He can be vile,” Alice says, lovingly. “But I understand him; some of it is naughtiness, some is insecurity. I just laugh at him now – I’d either laugh or cry.”

From this rocky start, he’s fulfilled the family’s dreams.

“My granny helped Mum with the breeding and used to joke that Spin and I would get to Burghley one day – when he wasn’t even managing at novice.”

What canny foresight. Topspin and Alice not only made it to Burghley, but have finished in the top 10 in all of their four runs.

Topspin breeding information

Name: Topspin

Stable name: Spin

Height: 17hh

Year of birth: 2008

Breeding: by Zento (16.3½hh) out of Capriati xx (15.3hh) by El Conquistador xx

Breeder: Caroline Casburn

Best results: fifth twice at Burghley CCI5*, fifth at Luhmühlen CCI5*, 2026 under-25 national champion at Bramham, young rider European team gold and individual bronze

Meet the parents

Caroline laughs that her premise for breeding Topspin was not entirely rational. She’d evented his grandmother, Spangle, at advanced. But out of five foals, she produced only one filly, Capriati.

“Capriati wasn’t the best to breed from in hindsight; sharp with an ever-ready battery,” says Caroline. “We bred from her to keep the line, but also as she was so hot-headed we didn’t like riding her!”

Stallion AI recommended Zento, for his quiet temperament: “Although Spin’s sharp, he’s workable,” Caroline says. “If you can stay on, you can bring him back to walk and explain things to him. You’d ride Capriati for three hours and never wear her out.”

Other facts about Topspin’s breeding

1. Topsin’s great-grandsire (grandsire of Capriati) was Derby winner Mill Reef.

2. His sire’s half-brother Cento won Olympic team showjumping gold in 2000.

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We’re expecting “How to keep horses cool in summer” will be a popular Google search this week. Here in the UK we experienced record temperatures of more than 30ºC in May and some areas are predicted to reach 40ºC this week. How many of you had that on your 2026 bingo card?

A heatwave that early in the year was unusual, and this week will be even more uncomfortable – and dangerous. Therefore, owners need to think about how to keep a horse cool right now, and we’ve got you covered. Here are Horse & Hound’s top tips on for keeping horses cool when things get really hot.

How to keep horses cool when temperatures soar

The number one piece of advice for working horses in hot weather is to exercise them as early in the morning as possible. While the evening could be an option, check your weather app in advance. It can still be well above 25ºC at 9pm in a heatwave, which might not be suitable for you or your horse.

Safe stabling

1. If your horse is normally stabled at night and out during the day, consider reversing his turnout times to avoid the hottest temperatures and the worst of the flies – especially if he has limited shade or shelter in the field.

Before deciding, check his stable isn’t actually more uncomfortable in the heat than his paddock. If there’s poor ventilation and no through breeze, his stable could be very stuffy. Setting up a portable fan out of reach of your horse may help to increase airflow and have a cooling effect.

2. If there is no permanent shelter or tree cover in your horse’s paddock, but you’d like him to stay out, you could use some sheeting to rig up a safe, temporary area of shade so he has the option.

Turnout tips

3. A light coloured fly rug or summer sheet works better than a dark coloured one for keeping the horse cool, because white is best for reflecting the sun’s heat.

A rug that has a loose weave material lets the horse’s body heat and sweat out more than a tight weave, but as a compromise provides less effective protection from the smallest flies and midges.

A wet rug has hugely increased cooling properties, so hosing the rug down while it is on your horse multiple times a day is worthwhile in the hottest temperatures.

4. Bringing your horse in for a cool hose off and turning him back out without scraping off the water will give him respite from the heat. If you can do it more than once, so much the better.

5. Pink skin and white areas on the face and heels are most commonly affected by sunburn because they have less skin pigment and hair coverage, so remember to apply one of the best suncreams for horses to these areas.

A fly mask with UV protective properties may also be helpful. Plus, those with a built-in nose net offer extra protection for pink noses.

How to keep horses cool while travelling

6. If you have to transport your horse in the hot weather, leave as early as possible. This avoids travelling in the worst heat and reduces the risk of getting stuck in traffic. Professional transporters in the UK are not allowed to move horses in temperatures exceeding 30°C – and this is a good rule of thumb for private owners to follow.

7. If you transport your horse, ensure all suitable windows are open to keep fresh air flowing through the horsebox. You can also use portable fans to help keep your horse cool.

If you have a roof vent, opening only the rear section while you are moving helps to draw the hot air out of the vehicle while cool air can enter through the windows. On arrival, the roof vent should be opened fully.

However, your horse might not be cooler standing on the lorry or trailer, even if he is out of the direct sun – think of dogs in hot cars. Consider whether he would be better off outside in the shade.

How to cool down a horse quickly

8. If you suspect that your horse may be suffering from heat stroke, put him in the shade and cool him continuously with free-flowing cool water.

The best way to do this is with a hosepipe, but if the hose has been sitting in the sun, make sure you run it first to remove any water that was left in the pipe. This water can be extremely hot and cause scalding so take care when you check it so you don’t get burnt either.

If you don’t have a hose, use a watering can or pour buckets over your horse instead. You will likely have to refill the vessels and repeat several times.

Another key is to allow the water to run off or evaporate without scraping off the excess liquid. The belief that leaving water on a horse will “cook” him is an equestrian urban myth – it simply isn’t true. The best way to cool a horse down quickly is to allow the water to draw heat away from the horse’s skin by evaporation.

You should also offer the horse water to drink every few minutes. If the horse appears wobbly (ataxic) then try to keep them walking in the shade, while continuing to apply cold water. If signs persist, contact your vet as a matter of urgency.

• For unlimited access to advice on how best to care for your horse, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

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Farrier Tom Broadbridge has overseen the care of numerous barefoot horses – here’s what he has learned

Considering transitioning your horse to barefoot, but not sure how to go about it? Spend any amount of time on social media and you’ll soon find that barefoot trimming and everything surrounding it is a hot topic.

“To my mind, enabling the horse to go barefoot is the gold standard,” says Tom Broadbridge, who qualified as a farrier in 2003 and is now purely a barefoot hoofcare professional.

“There are times when a horse can’t immediately go completely barefoot. Sometimes horses that look sound with shoes on may not be free from inflammation. Consequently, their unsoundness may be more obvious when the shoes are removed.

“If a horse is not sound, they may need another form of hoof protection after removing the shoes, such as hoof boots. In such cases, immediately going completely barefoot may not be best.”

Tom advises against making the transition alone.

“Firstly, ensure you’ve built a strong team of equine professionals around you. Communication with them is key.

“Speak to your vet and your hoof care professional for their advice rather than plunging straight into taking the shoes off.”

Why transition a horse to barefoot?

Keeping horses naturally is a significant motivator in the transition from shod to barefoot. There are several other reasons owners make the change too, including:

1. Cost

With the cost-of-living crisis applying increasing financial pressures – and leaving some owners unable to make ends meet – the thought of ditching a large six-weekly bill appeals to many. However, Tom advises proceeding with caution.

“If finances are your only motivation, I’d advise you to think again,” he says. “Barefoot is not necessarily the easy or cheap option. Keeping a barefoot horse requires a holistic approach, and you may find mounting costs with equine professionals in other areas of your horse’s management to address soundness without shoes, as they may mask lameness.”

2. Performance

“A horse often gains a more natural movement without the restriction of steel shoes,” explains Tom. “Watch the horses in the dressage arena that are barefoot.”

3. Retirement or semi-retirement

Many owners reassess their horses’ lifestyle when they reduce or remove their ridden routine. As well as removing shoes, many opt for 24/7 turnout or retirement livery, too.

4. Eliminates shoe pulling

If you have a horse that regularly pulls shoes, this leads to frequent call-outs mid-shoeing cycle and risks damage to the hoof.

5. A last resort

“I specialised in remedial farriery years ago and thought it was the key to everything,” explains Tom. “Then, you’d have cases where you’d throw every specialised shoe and technique you knew to fix a lame horse, but nothing would work.

“One client sent their horse to a barefoot rehab yard, and the horse came sound. It was one of the most exciting moments of my career. In fact, it was the beginning of my transition to barefoot.”

How to transition a horse to barefoot

Consulting your hoofcare professional alongside your vet and an independent nutritionist is the best way to set your horse up for a successful barefoot life.

That said, there’s much you can do in the months ahead to ease the transition.

Feeding

Ideally consulting with an independent nutritionist, Tom recommends reviewing and reducing the amount of sugar in your horse’s diet, from bucket to haynet.

“Sugar is a focus point because it is so influential in terms of inflammation,” says Tom. “But an independent nutritionist can help you review the micronutrients your horse is receiving for overall health and ensure they are optimally fed, too.”

Workload

“If I decided to take off my trainers and immediately go for a 20-mile walk, my feet would be in a sorry state,” says Tom. “It can be the same with newly-barefoot horses.”

While some individuals adapt quickly to work on hard or stony surfaces, others need time to adjust. Tom advises looking over your horse’s workload, scaling back for a period, then building up to your usual routine.

“Groundwork can be a great place to start,” adds Tom.

“If you’ve ever walked on uneven tarmac with no shoes, you’ll know how unpleasant it can feel and the effect on your gait.

“Now carry a saddle and a person. You’ve made an uncomfortable task even more difficult.”

All at once?

If a horse is shod all round, some owners choose to remove the back shoes first.

“The front feet carry about two-thirds of a horse’s weight,” says Tom. “Some owners like to remove the hind shoes first to allow the horse to adjust how he loads and potentially ease the transition.”

However, others may argue that there is a height differential between the shod and barefoot hooves, and that can cause unintended issues.

How to support a horse while transitioning to barefoot

Tom says it’s perfectly normal for newly barefoot horses to feel sensitive on stony ground.

“Anyone who was used to wearing shoes would be,” he says.

“However, if a barefoot horse appears lame on any surface, it is a cause for concern and action needs to be taken.”

Always gain advice from a qualified equine professional.

If you regularly walk your horse on a hard, uneven track – for example, to reach his paddock – hoof boots are a useful tool.

Tom, who designs and produces his own range of hoof boots, says it helps avoid the cumulative effect of contact with sub-optimal ground.

“Newly barefoot horses who walk on stones might develop slight bruising.

“This might be pretty inconsequential as a one-off, but if it’s a daily thing you get bruising forming on top of bruising, and that can become very sore. What’s more, it can cause inflammation and affect the rest of the body due to compensatory issues.

“Using hoof boots for any activity on surfaces, such as stony tracks, can reduce issues, especially in those early stages, by protecting your horse’s soles.

“Gradually introducing different surfaces when the horse is completely barefoot allows them to adjust, and improves hoof health over time.”

Choosing and fitting hoof boots

You can find many different hoof boot styles on the market, including Tom’s own design, Pioneer Sports hoof boots, which are a self-adjusting style to accommodate natural movement and a growing hoof throughout the trim cycle.

Each company has its own fitting and measurement guidelines.

Tom recommends consulting your hoofcare professional on a style and fit to suit your horse when seeking hoof boot advice.

“Some companies, like The Hoof Boutique, will give you advice based on images and measurements you send them or provide a fit kit.”

Dealing with hoof cracks

When transitioning a horse from shod to barefoot, hoof wall cracks or wall degradation are common.

“If your horse has been shod for quite some time, you’ll have a series of nail holes,” Tom explains.

“Here, the horn is weak and will break away.”

Always seek advice from the hoof care professional. Many riders reach for hoof conditioners and moisturisers, but Tom advises it is bacterial or fungal infection within the hoof wall, not dryness, that causes low-level cracking.

“Use an anti-bacterial and anti-fungal product on the hoof horn from about a centimetre below the coronary band,” he suggests. “This permeates the horn and tackles the infection.

“New growth is imbued with the treatment and the cracking should stop. You can actually smell the product when you trim the hoof.”

He adds that the white line can stretch due to flaring, meaning small stones and other debris become lodged within.

“You need a tool sharper and thinner than a hoof pick, such as a bradle, to gently clear it,” advises Tom.

“I’d then use a packing material [like this one] to preserve the white line.”

What’s the best time of year to transition a horse to barefoot?

For Tom, there are pros and cons to a summer versus a winter transition.

“If you transition in the winter, the ground is generally softer, but so are the feet,” he says. “So, the sole is more vulnerable to bruising and potentially more sensitive to stony underfooting.

“In the summer, the feet are generally harder and the sole less flexible, but also the ground is also harder and possibly more uncomfortable underfoot.”

The time of year you choose to transition will depend on what you already know about your horse’s feet. Ultimately, Tom recommends avoiding spring and autumn when the grass flushes and its sugar content intensifies.

“At these points in the year there’s a real boost of energy and sugar in the grass,” Tom explains. “This causes an instant response in the body that might lead to inflammation. It doesn’t need to be as severe as acute laminitis – even a small amount of inflammation in the body can make horses more sensitive.

“My horse has been barefoot for nine years. When the weather changes and the grass shoots up, he’ll feel the odd stone here and there where he wouldn’t have a couple of weeks before.

“And he’s not transitioning – he’s well into barefoot life.”

Ultimately, success will come from strategising ahead of removing your horse’s shoes.

“Start planning your transition while your horse is still shod,” says Tom. “Making dietary adjustments in advance, for example, can help minimise soreness, maintain hoof wall integrity and altogether make the transition far smoother.”

• For unlimited access to advice on how best to care for your horse, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

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Artificial insemination in horses is a technically demanding but routine part of modern equine veterinary practice. It is a modern breeding technique that can be incredibly complex and requires accuracy and strict biosecurity, plus good timing and organisation to be successful. In the UK, it sits firmly within the professional responsibilities outlined by the Royal College of Veterinary Surgeons (RCVS).

If you’re planning to use artificial insemination (AI) for your mare this breeding season, how can you maximise the chances of a successful equine pregnancy? We outline the most important points to consider when using artificial insemination in horses and explain what’s involved in the process.

How is artificial insemination done in horses?

Routinely, the process is as follows…

1. Semen collection

This begins with appropriate preparation of the stallion and the environment. In well-managed studs, stallions are trained to mount a phantom (dummy) mare rather than a live mare. This significantly reduces risk to both animals and handlers. An artificial vagina (AV) is carefully prepared to replicate physiological conditions – specifically temperature, pressure, and lubrication – so that ejaculation occurs in a controlled and humane manner.

The veterinary surgeon, or suitably trained personnel under direction, must handle the stallion in a way that minimises stress and risk of injury. Hygiene is critical: the AV must be sterile or single-use lined. In addition, collection vessels must be clean and pre-warmed. Obvious contaminants, such as dirt or urine, must be avoided.

Poor technique here can compromise semen quality and ultimately fertility outcomes.

2. Semen evaluation and handling

Once collected, semen is assessed promptly and properly. This directly informs clinical decisions about whether the ejaculate is suitable for use and how it should be processed.

Evaluation typically includes motility (movement), concentration, and morphology (assessing size and shape). This is all carried out under controlled temperature conditions to avoid cold shock. Accuracy in terms of process and record-keeping is essential.

3. Extension and preparation

To preserve sperm viability and produce multiple doses, semen is diluted with an appropriate extender following evaluation. Extenders are designed to buffer pH, provide energy substrates, and reduce bacterial growth.

Controlled temperature conditions are essential to dilution. Abrupt changes can irreversibly damage sperm membranes. Again, traceability and documentation are important, particularly where transporting semen between premises.

4. Storage and transport

If semen is not used immediately, it may be cooled for short-term storage or frozen for long-term preservation.

5. Insemination and post-breeding care

Your vet will manually insert the semen at the optimum time using a pipette. The mare is typically scanned via ultrasound 24–48 hours post-insemination to ensure ovulation has occurred and to check for any fluid buildup in the uterus. A second ultrasound scan is performed 14–16 days after breeding to confirm conception.

Can AI be carried out at home?

AI can be carried out at home, at an equine clinic or at a specialist breeding centre. So what might influence your choice?

“Studies show that pregnancy rates improve with minimised potential stress,” says equine vet and breeding expert Emma Cooper MRCVS. “Certain horses may be more relaxed at home, but you will ideally need stocks for ultrasound scanning and insemination.”

Insemination with frozen semen is particularly difficult to carry out at home, yet fresh and chilled also need a vet’s input.

“An AI package at a stud or clinic could well prove cheaper, as driving and visit fees often add up to more,” says Emma. “The benefit of a clinic is that the vet can examine a mare as often as necessary without the owner having to be there.

“Every mare is different, but an experienced repro vet with knowledge of AI will be able to see more detail in the uterus and follicle to tell exactly where she is in her cycle. Better care will most likely bring a better result – and fewer scans could lower costs.”

Pros and cons of artificial insemination in horses

It sounds so simple – and often it is – yet AI can disappoint the unwary. Take a look below at its pros and cons in summary:

Advantages

• Reduced risk of injury to mare and stallion
• Access to geographically distant or elite stallions
• Allows use of chilled or frozen semen (genetic flexibility)
• Better disease control (no direct contact)
• Precise timing with ovulation → often good conception rates

Disadvantages

• Requires veterinary expertise and monitoring (costly)
• Variable fertility with frozen semen
• Not permitted in some studbooks (e.g. Weatherbys/The Jockey Club for thoroughbreds)
• Handling/storage logistics for semen

How much does AI cost?

Artificial insemination in horses can incur rapidly mounting costs, which you will need to add to the other costs of breeding a horse.

Pre-breeding assessment

Vets recommend a thorough pre-breeding check, which should include a complete gynaecological assessment, including ultrasound and appropriate tests for infections that can affect fertility (such as a blood test for equine viral arteritis and a swab for contagious equine metritis) as well as a general health check, including a worm egg count.

The mare’s vaccinations should also be up to date.

This is likely to cost between £215–300, including VAT, and is vitally important.

Cost of insemination

Costs for insemination can vary hugely depending on what clinical costs include. However, in addition to the cost of semen, you should be budgeting:

• Chilled semen package = at least £525, including two pregnancy scans (including VAT)
• Frozen semen package = at least £625, including two pregnancy scans (including VAT)

There are many potential additional costs, such as sedation, treatment for infection or infertility, such as uterine lavages and other additional treatments.

In other cases, the mares will be straightforward, and the costs may be less.

Be wary of additional charges

“Make sure you know the costs up front,” says Emma. “Ask if stud or clinic prices include extras such as livery, drugs and pregnancy scans, and whether you’ll pay the same the second time around if your mare does not conceive on the first cycle.

“Most AIs are fine, but complications can occur. Not all mares cycle every 21 days. Others produce excessive uterine fluid so that when the embryo enters the uterus it cannot survive.

“There’s also a reasonably high rate of twinning with some mares. The uterus is typically not large enough to sustain both embryos. While there’s a high success rate if one is ‘squeezed’ within the appropriate time, this does involve a risk to the other one.

“We don’t always know of potential problems until we start looking.”

Consider that a healthy foal, or that the foal will mature into a quality horse, is not a given. As such, careful consideration is essential from the outset.

What is the success rate of artificial insemination in horses?

Conformation, temperament, size, soundness and freedom from hereditary conditions – all these will influence your choice of stallion. But will your chosen stallion’s semen get your mare in foal?

You also want to obtain a fertility record from the stud manager. That said, relevant fertility data can be hard to obtain, warns Fred Barrelet, a Newmarket reproduction vet.

“The key measure of a stallion’s fertility is his per-cycle conception rate, but many stud owners don’t publish this,” he says. “The number of mares he gets into foal tells you nothing about the time taken. What you need to know is the breeding efficiency achieved with his semen.

“Ask the stallion owner, stud or semen vendor for the number of mares that become pregnant per cycle. A lot depends on management and the individual mare, but you need to hear an answer of about 50%.”

Semen quality/handling, timing and the standard of clinical management also affect success, although no single variable determines outcome. Rather, the pregnancy rate reflects how well these elements align.

Mare selection

Younger mares generally have higher conception rates. With advancing age, there is a higher incidence of degenerative changes within the uterus. Such changes mean that after breeding, fluid and inflammatory debris do not clear as well, resulting in an increased chance of persistent uterine infections.

This is one of the most common causes of subfertility.

In addition, the cervix of older mares may not relax as effectively during oestrus, which can hinder both semen deposition and uterine clearance.

Egg quality also declines with age, so even when fertilisation occurs, early embryonic loss is more likely. So clinically, this means older mares often require more intensive management.

Semen types: what are your options?

A good semen sample will contain billions of sperm, but which type is best for your mare?

• Fresh: straight from the stallion (who must be on-site or nearby), fresh semen offers the highest fertility rates and lasts longest once inseminated. Its lifespan is usually three hours from collection, but this varies between stallions.
• Chilled: next best fertility-wise. Chilled semen is mixed with extenders, preservatives and antibiotics to lengthen its lifespan to up to 30 hours. This enables insemination at home and widens stallion choice to further afield in the UK, or even Europe. Timing is still an issue: it must be ready at the premises prior to your mare ovulating.
• Frozen: fertility rates associated with frozen semen have improved with the use of extenders and veterinary management. It can be stored ready for use and opens up a worldwide pool of stallions. However, it requires considerable veterinary input, and can push up costs (insemination must take place within six hours prior to, and four hours after ovulation). Sperm from certain stallions has better post-thaw motility – swimming ability – than others.

Semen choice will largely depend upon your mare’s age and breeding health. Fresh or chilled will maximise an older mare’s chances of conceiving – provided it arrives on time, prior to ovulation.

Getting the timing right

During the horse breeding season, a mare ovulates (releases an egg) every 18-24 days – a process called cycling. Each egg forms inside the ovary in a structure known as a follicle.

“A mare is in season – or oestrus – for four to seven days, although this can vary from two to 12 days,” says Emma. “She is then out of season (in dioestrus), for 14-15 days.”

Timing and logistics therefore play a crucial role in successful AI.

“The stud team must work within a relatively narrow biological window as to when the mare is going to ovulate working with perishable materials,” adds Emma.

“It can be harder than one might think to predict ovulation and select the best time to inseminate a mare. Each mare is individual and reproductive cycles will vary. Therefore, veterinary teams must monitor her frequently and diligently monitoring using ultrasound, particularly when breeding from older mares.”

Vets can manipulate the point of ovulation to enable insemination of semen at the optimum moment, according to its type.

“During a season, follicle growth goes hand-in-hand with an increase in the oedema [fluid] within the mare’s uterus,” explains Emma. “When the follicle reaches a key size of 35mm we can use either one of two ovulation-inducing drugs, Chorulon and Ovuplant.

“The mare should then ovulate within 24-48 hours, which gives us a window to order and inseminate semen prior to ovulation. Follicle size may be smaller, though, particularly in ponies, so it helps to know a mare’s breeding history.”

Health is key

According to the British Equestrian Veterinary Association (BEVA), due to the serious concern of the spread of infectious diseases, it is best practice to only accept semen from a stallion for AI tested for contagious equine metritis (CEM), equine viral arteritis (EVA) and equine infectious anaemia (EIA) after 1 January 2026.

Generally, vets request that this certification arrive with the semen at delivery, otherwise they will be unable to proceed with insemination. This is already mandatory for all EU/foreign stallions – it is illegal to use semen from an unknown source or imported from abroad without the required health documentation.

It is wise to request this certification for UK stallions as well.

How do I prepare my mare for artificial insemination?

Good general health is essential for a mum-to-be, so keep your mare’s vaccination and worming programmes up to date and her hooves and teeth well maintained.

But how else can you prepare her for AI?

“We’d rather see a mare too light than too heavy, so aim for fair condition,” says Edward Matson of Twemlows Stud Farm and AI/ET (embryo transfer) centre. “Like females of all species, horses are more likely to conceive on a rising plane of nutrition.”

If you’re sending your mare to a stud or clinic for AI, pre-entry health requirements could include checks for CEM, EVA, EIA and strangles.

Edward points out that pre-breeding examinations are not always definitive in predicting a mare’s chances of conceiving.

“It is difficult to assess a maiden [first-time] mare’s reproductive health before she comes into season,” he says. “A specialised equine repro vet might suggest endometrial swabs or more complex biopsies with a potential problem mare.

“Around 80% of problems occur once the semen is inserted in the uterus, however. You can’t tell too much till then.

“If your mare has foaled previously, give the vet as much information as you can about her breeding history. This should include her own breeding information, the type of semen used and the cycle she conceived on – or why she didn’t. This can save a lot of time and money.

“Be realistic with an older maiden mare. She may be super-fertile or she may not, but you won’t know until you try.”

• For unlimited access to advice on how best to care for your horse, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

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The first time you see a horse wearing sunglasses you will probably do a double take. They’re certainly not commonplace, but we’re seeing them in use more frequently and they’re not just a quirky fashion statement.

Horses wear sunglasses (often called equine goggles or visors) for a variety of reasons that are all centred around protecting their eyes. The most common reasons include: