Latest from Horse & Hound in Horse-care

Three adorable miniature horse breeds, and why they aren’t the same as ponies

Bethany Stone — Fri, 10 Jul 2026 14:53:37 +0000

Small but mighty, miniature horse breeds pack a large punch in a diminutive body. In fact, the world’s smallest horse is a miniature horse breed.

But what is a miniature horse? Aren’t we just talking ponies here?

Is a miniature horse a pony?

Crucially, no. There’s a horse fact for you to break out at parties!

Miniature horses and ponies are two different classifications of equine – it’s all to do with conformation.

Hundreds of years of selective breeding give us the miniature horses we recognise today. Stand a miniature horse next to a pony of the same height, and you’ll soon see the difference.

In general, ponies have short, stocky legs and thicker necks. They usually have a wider barrel compared to horses and have proportionally shorter bodies, too.

In contrast, a miniature horse looks just like a scaled down sport or competition horse. They have proportionally longer bodies and legs, slender necks and elegant heads.

Can you ride miniature horses?

Miniature horse breeds are not commonly used for riding – only a very young child would be small and light enough to do so. They would still need to be backed, trained and selected for an appropriate career like a regular-sized horse.

Many minis are used in driving, showing, and agility, and are also bred as pets and used as therapy animals.

Miniature horse breeds

Falabella. (Image credit: Alamy)

1. Falabella

Height: 24–28 inches

Weight: 50–80kg

Country of origin: Argentina

This tiny rare horse breed is the world’s smallest, and quite possibly the hardiest because they can withstand extreme temperatures and unforgiving landscapes.

Spanish horses brought to South America from the 16th century represent this breed’s origins. After some of them ended up getting loose and turning feral – even wild – they carved a path to some of the most hard-to-reach areas, such as isolated places outside Buenos Aires. Some of this equine population joined the indigenous Mapuche people.

How did the breed become so small? Generation upon generation was exposed to harsh climates, limited food and scarce water. The Falabella grew smaller and smaller to adapt to these conditions. And, because finding food and water was so tough, they became more intelligent over time in order to survive.

Falabellas were noticed by outsiders in 1845, when Irish settler Patrick Newell observed the remarkably small horses were kept alongside the Mapuche’s riding horses. He and his family took to keeping Falabellas and breeding them. His son-in-law, Juan Falabella, took up the mantle and gave the breed his name.

Juan brought Shetland pony and English thoroughbred blood into the breed to refine the Falabella into what we know today.

American miniature horse. (Image credit: Alamy)

2. American Miniature

Height: Less than 34 inches

Weight: 68–136kg

Country of origin: USA

According to the American Miniature Horse Society, American Miniatures are the result of nearly 400 years of selective breeding, with the earliest record of a small horse arriving in the country from overseas appearing in 1888. However, mini horses didn’t land in the wider public consciousness until as late as 1960.

The breed is understood to have been cultivated from the blood of English and Dutch working horses, particularly those put to work in mines (no prizes for guessing why!). These horses arrived in the US in the 19th century and went into the Appalachian Mountains to mine.

There is some evidence that the Shetland pony was also introduced to help achieve the desired miniature stature.

Dutch Miniature. (Image credit: Absolutely Fotografie)

3. Dutch Miniature

Height: 42 inches or less

Weight: 68–159kg

Country of origin: Netherlands

In Dutch, this tiny horse’s name is the Nederlands Minipaard.

With a studbook established in 1993, the original rules for registration with the breed society (Nederlandse Mini Paarden Registratie Stamboek) allowed any horse under 42 inches (106cm) to register. This allowed the inclusion of greater genetic diversity when establishing this miniature horse breed.

Today, foals hoping to enter the stud book must follow much more stringent criteria. This includes having registered parents.

The breed society hosts an annual summer show for all mini breeds in July. There are no ridden classes on the schedule, but participants compete in competitions like showing, jumping and driving.

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10 experts reveal the products they can’t live without at a horse show

Bethan Simons — Fri, 10 Jul 2026 14:30:33 +0000

After a busy first half of the season, it’s likely your grooming kit or stripping basket are in need of a refresh – this could be true whether your next stop is an area show or you’re prepping for a week at the Royal International.

From emergency saviours to cheap hacks, we asked some top producers what they can’t live without on show days.

Show kit essentials

Hannah Horton: “I wouldn’t contemplate going showing without good old baby wipes – they can be used for anything. We also make sure we have drinks for humans in the stripping basket.”

Emma Burrows: “For me, I need a good mane and tail detangler, coat gloss and a bit of baby oil gel [like this one] to smooth the hair.”

Danielle Heath: “We love Smart Grooming Super Shine; it’s fantastic on faces and gives a mega shine on bodies, too, especially in an evening performance.”

Having products you can rely on in your basket will make things easier on show day. (Image credit: Elli Birch)

Joe Watson: “This olive oil sheen spray is brilliant on our natives’ manes and tails especially,” he says, “and we use it as a coat gloss and highlighter, too. It’s not very expensive, which is great as we go through tons of the stuff.”

Leon King: “It has to be this Got2b hair gel for plaiting. We always have Leovet’s Power Phaser fly spray and this Cowboy Magic shampoo as well as their Detangler and Shine on tails; it’s incredible – like nothing else I have tried.”

Sara Parrott: “If I had to choose one product that I couldn’t be without it would have to be Supreme Products’ Sparkle Spray for those last minute finishing touches, manes, coats and tails – and even hooves and rider’s boots at a push!”

Sue-Helen Shuttleworth: “On the lorry we always have a good shampoo to quickly wash and dry if horses need it after travelling or working in. Personally I use Equioils Super Soap, Equioils Whitening Wood Flour and towels.

“In the strip basket there’s always a good, clean damp sponge for wiping away saddle marks before the conformation phase, and a good mane and tail brush.

And there’s always full fat Coke and sweets to keep us going.”

Harrison Taylor: “We use glycerine mixed in water for a sponge over, then Arena Products’ Show Shine spray on top. I also use Arena Products’ Clear Highlighter, which contains SPF for eyes and muzzle, black make up, Brylcreem, hair spray and baby wipes.”

Edward Young: “We always have tea, sugar and milk on the lorry. We also have a portable shower to wash any plaiting gel out of the manes and condition them when we unplait; it must be more comfortable for them, and it stops the mane getting too brittle. In my stripping bucket I carry fly spray, Brylcreem as long as it’s not too hot and sunny, hoof-stain, a good brush and a cloth [like this one].”

Simon Reynolds: “Our basket is like Mary Poppins’ bag; we carry everything we could possibly need as there’s nothing worse than having to go back to the lorry if you have forgotten something. But essentials include wet wipes and plaiting bands, plus electrical tape [like this] can be a great save in an emergency. And I’m diabetic so we always have fizzy sweets, too.”

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What do hosepipe bans mean for horse owners in the UK?

Georgia Guerin — Fri, 10 Jul 2026 13:35:17 +0000

As those living in the UK are in the midst of yet another heatwave, and some water companies have announced hosepipe bans, where does this leave horse owners who are trying to keep horses cool and prevent dehydration?

Currently, some customers of Southern Water, South East Water and Cambridge Water are facing water usage restrictions. Anglian Water customers will also be under restriction from 1am Saturday, 11 July.

Affinity Water has also put a hosepipe ban in place across its Central area, which covers parts of Bedfordshire, Berkshire, Buckinghamshire, Essex, Hertfordshire, Surrey and parts of London – this will come into effect on Friday, 17 July.

Other areas are not currently affected, but some water companies, such as Severn Trent, have asked customers to be mindful of their usage and issued guidance on how to reuse water where possible.

Washing horses down with a hosepipe is still allowed under hosepipe restrictions. (Image credit: creditUnknown)

Hosepipe ban exemptions?

The good news is that while the rules outlaw the use of hosepipes for washing cars and watering gardens, the use of a hosepipe for the cleaning, maintenance and general wellbeing of any kind of animal is exempt from hosepipe ban rules.

The Government requires that the welfare of animals must be protected at all times, including during a hosepipe ban – or as it is more correctly called a Temporary Use Ban (TUB).

What is allowed during a hosepipe ban?

Examples of what is allowed under the TUB restrictions include:

Washing horses down with a hosepipe
Filling up water troughs and buckets with a hosepipe
Cleaning out lorries, trailers and stables with a hosepipe

As long as you are genuinely using a hosepipe for the welfare of your horse and not abusing the interpretation of these rules, you should have no concerns. Responsible use of water is encouraged at the stables, as it is in your homes, to avoid putting added pressure on the supply during this period of high temperatures with little no rain forecast.

If you’d like further reassurance or information, you can contact your local water company for clarification.

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Complete Pony Club Camp packing checklist for child and pony

Bethany Stone — Thu, 09 Jul 2026 13:04:05 +0000

Struggling to work out what to pack for Pony Club camp? You don’t want your child to be missing anything, but you don’t want to send them with everything but the kitchen sink, either. Don’t worry, there’s still plenty of time to prepare and plug any gaps in your kit.

Your Pony Club may have a specific list tailored to their camp, but between the team at H&H, we’ve got many Pony Club camps under our belt – both as children and as parents – so we’re here with plenty of advice and ideas. Our top tip – make sure absolutely everything is named.

Pony Club camp packing list

Because the quintessential Pony Club camp packing list is rather long, we’re going to break it down into categories. We’ll start with the thing you definitely don’t want to leave at home – your pony!

Tack and horsewear

saddle
bridle
neck strap
martingale (if using)
girth
stirrups and leathers
saddle cloths or numnahs in your branch or centre’s permitted colours – take more than one in case they get dirty or sweaty
any legwear your pony uses, such as overreach boots, brushing boots or tendon boots
stud kit (if used)
headcollar and leadrope
tail and stable bandages
tack cleaning equipment, like saddle soap and a sponge
all your travel kit, to get your pony there in the first place

Pony care

First and foremost, check with your branch or centre about whether they will provide bedding that is suitable for your pony. If not, make sure to pack your own.

Also, check what your pony’s living arrangements will be. Will he be living out, and do you need to bring some electric fencing? Will you have access to a stable? Find out in advance so you can prepare.

You’ll want your own of most things, but you might be able to team up with other campers when it comes to the big items, such as wheelbarrows.

enough of your pony’s hay/haylage, feed and supplements to last the duration of camp
feed bin (like this one)
buckets for water and feed
haynets
wheelbarrow, large trug or garden bag (like this one) for mucking out
mucking out tools
grooming kit with all your brushes
sweat scraper and sponge
stud kit, if needed
your best horse shampoo
fly spray
horse sun cream, if needed
other grooming sprays if you use them, like mane and tail detangler or stain remover
rugs, such as a cooler or fly rug and fly mask if needed

Pony Club camp is as much about time off the ponies, so make sure you’ve got non-riding clothes packed, too. (Image credit: Emma Herrod Photography)

Rider kit

If you plan to stay overnight, pack accordingly for your accommodation. You may want a warm layer or two if you are camping!

Pony Club sweatshirt
Pony Club tie
white shirts
a few pairs of jodhpurs or riding tights (usually beige, black or navy, check your branch or centre’s rules)
tweed or show jacket (if needed)
plenty of riding socks and underwear
riding boots, either long or short with jodhpur clips or chaps/gaiters
hairnet and scrunchie (if needed)
riding gloves
whip
up-to-standard and tagged riding hat
up-to-standard body protector
casual tops and bottoms for off-horse activities
coveralls or waterproof trousers for mucking out
stout boots or wellies for the yard
trainers or comfy shoes for off the yard
sun hat
waterproof coat
pyjamas

Other essentials

toiletries
sun lotion
insect repellent
prescription medication (if used)
pillow and sleeping bag
camp bed (like this one, if needed) or airbed
towels
plate, mug and cutlery for mealtimes (if needed)
boot cleaning equipment
notebook and pen
Pony Club Manual of Horsemanship
water bottle
small personal first aid kit
torch
watch or alarm clock

Extras

pack of cards
book to read (check out the best horse books for kids)
torch
small amount of money for tuck
hand sanitiser
hair bobbles
swimming kit, if required
portable fan, for you or your pony if it’s hot
portable power bank (like this one)

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How to trot a horse up properly H&H subscribers

Horse & Hound — Tue, 07 Jul 2026 15:28:10 +0000

The aim of the trot-up is to allow the observer a clear view of the horse moving in a straight line and in balance, so that the gait can be assessed.

Horses are trotted up primarily to check for soundness. The trot is an even gait, with legs moving in diagonal pairs, so it is the easiest in which to spot lameness or uneven loading of the limbs. A horse may also be trotted up in-hand as part of a sale, to show off his movement.

FEI competitions for all disciplines will include a trot-up (otherwise known as the horse inspection) to check the horses are fit to compete. At three-day events, an initial trot-up takes place prior to competition. A second trot-up the morning after cross-country then follows to check the horses have recovered and are fit to continue to the final showjumping phase.

A trot-up in a straight line as part of a lameness examination allows the vet to make an initial assessment of the horse’s soundness. Further tests, such as flexion tests, lungeing and a ridden exam, may be necessary for the vet to gain more information.

At a pre-purchase exam, the vet is making a full assessment of the horse on behalf of a client. A trot-up is part of the examination, to identify any lameness issues that may prevent the horse being suitable for the buyer’s needs.

In all cases, a good, level surface that is not too loose, slippery or stony will help the horse trot confidently and offer the truest indication of his soundness.

A closer look

It is useful to know what the vet is looking for in these different trot-up circumstances.

As a spectator at a competition trot-up, it may be puzzling as to why some horses pass the trot-up while others are sent to an area called the holding box and occasionally eliminated.

The ground jury and veterinary delegate will assess each horse visually as he stands in front of them, before seeing him trot to evaluate his soundness. Any horse they have concerns about will be sent to the holding box for further assessment.

The vet in the holding box will be able to do a more thorough examination, including palpation and assessment of the horse’s limbs, to help identify any injuries — such as tendon or ligament injuries — which would prevent him from continuing in the competition.

A horse who has sustained a small overreach during the cross-country, for example, or who has pulled a shoe off, may appear slightly unlevel. After veterinary assessment, however, he may be deemed fit to complete a round of showjumping.

There may be horses competing that are poor movers, without having any specific injury that would be exacerbated by competition. At the second trot-up, on the final day, the ground jury will have benefited from seeing competitors at the first trot-up and in the dressage, so will have a clearer view of how each horse normally moves.

Taking the lead

Trotting up a horse correctly is an important skill to learn. The horse should be wearing a bridle for control and be led from the left side. Start by standing him up square so the vet or ground jury can examine him from all sides.

At an event trot-up, you will be expected to walk the horse for a few steps before trotting him away and then back towards the vet and ground jury. When examining a lame horse, or a horse for purchase, I ask to see him walked away and back and then trotted away and back. There is value in seeing the horse moving away and back towards you in both gaits.

The horse needs to be able to move his head freely without being held on a tight rein. The aim is to keep him moving in a straight line and at an even pace.

Stay by his shoulder and walk in a straight line by looking ahead, not at the horse. In trot, it is best to set off at a steady run with an even rhythm — remaining at his shoulder. If you run ahead or turn around to look at him, he may well back off and drag behind you.

It is important to keep the horse’s head and neck straight. If he curls towards you, this can make the gait look uneven and the right hindquarter can swing out and appear to drop away.

Experienced riders will have different ways of presenting a horse well, but I advise people to hold the reins in the right hand, as if you were riding one-handed, with your palm downwards and the reins separated by your hand. You can then place your arm across the horse’s chest so your hand is central, directly below the base of the neck.

With the reins in this position, you can encourage the horse to relax and take a contact with the bridle. He should then drop his head and lift over his shoulders and back, trotting with an even, powerful hindlimb gait.

If you are holding the reins together, in a fist, it is difficult to have much influence on a horse who sticks his head in the air and swings about. You can only apply downward force and he may react against this by putting his head up and hollowing through his back and neck, compromising the way he uses his body and hindlegs.

The horse needs to be able to trot in his own balance and rhythm, so find the pace or speed that suits him — which may mean adjusting your running speed. Don’t worry about your footsteps being in time with his. It’s great if they do match, but you may trip if your legs aren’t the same length as the horse’s and you try too hard.

Return to walk a few strides before the end of the straight and turn the horse away from you by moving his shoulder. This avoids being trodden on or tripped up, which can happen if you turn him towards you.

It is worth practising at home so both horse and rider learn to trot correctly. A horse who is poorly presented may look uneven, even if he isn’t.

Ref Horse & Hound; 17 October 2019

How to trot up for the vet, and when you might need to do so

Bethany Stone — Tue, 07 Jul 2026 15:28:10 +0000

A veterinary professional may want to see your horse trot up for a number of reasons, but what’s the best way to do it?

A good trot-up gives the observer a clear view of the horse moving in a straight line and in balance, so their gait can be assessed.

Primarily, vets use trot-ups to check for soundness. Because the trot is an even gait, with legs moving in diagonal pairs, it’s easier to spot lameness or uneven loading of the limbs than in walk or canter.

When are horses trotted up for vets?

Vets might wish to see horses trotted up as part of:

a lameness examination, in which further tests, such as flexion tests, lungeing and a ridden exam might also be carried out
a pre-purchase examination, in which a vet is employed to assess the horse’s physically suitablity for a buyer
an FEI competition of any discipline to check the horses are fit to compete. At three-day events, there are two horse inspections: one before the dressage phase, and another following the cross-country phase. Horses have to pass both to be allowed to compete

The holding box

At an FEI event, the ground jury and veterinary delegate will pass a horse following a trot up or send him to a holding box for further examination.

The vet in the holding box performs a more thorough examination, including palpation and assessment of the horse’s limbs, to help identify any injuries — such as tendon injuries — that would prevent him from continuing in the competition.

A horse who has sustained a small overreach injury during the cross-country, for example, or who has pulled a shoe off, may appear slightly unlevel. After veterinary assessment, however, he may be deemed fit to complete a round of showjumping.

Some horses are then represented at the trot-up, while others might withdraw from competition at the holding box.

Vets may perform flexion tests before watching your horse trot up. Photo: Lucy Merrell (Image credit: Lucy Merrell)

Equipment to use to trot your horse up for the vet

Be ready to trot your horse up with:

a well-fitting bridle, headcollar or halter
stout, appropriate footwear, such as yard boots
a riding hat
riding gloves
a schooling whip, if needed

Vets will watch your horse trot away and towards. Photo: Bex Pattenden (Image credit: BEX PATTENDEN)

How to trot up a horse for the vet

Before considering how to trot up a horse, first select your surface. It should be level and not too loose, slippery or stony.

Stand your horse square. This allows the vet to walk around and examine the horse’s posture from every angle. Hold the reins in your right hand as if you were riding one-handed.
Trot the horse away as straight as you can, keeping an even rhythm and ensuring he has enough rein to move his head freely so the vet can see any abnormalities. Your horse should be active, but not too fast.
The vet may signal when they want you to turn and trot towards them, or if you’re unsure you can ask them to call out.
Ask your horse for a walk transition a few steps prior to turning. When you turn, your horse should always turn away from you to avoid being trodden on. Guide the horse towards you slightly before asking him to turn away. This will enable you to trot back on the same line.
Keep the horse straight towards the vet, but ensure you have sufficient control so as not to run them over.

It is worth clarifying whether the vet wants to see your horse walk first. If so, use the steps above in walk.

Furthermore, it is good to clarify how to trot up for the vet in particular. Some want to see the transition from trot to walk in front of them. You should make this transition very obvious.

If you have a young or inexperienced horse, practise the routine of trotting up so that when you need to do so you can produce a good, straight trot for your vet without any hassle. If you’re preparing to trot up at a competition, it’s worth you and your horse learning to trot correctly as a horse who is poorly presented may look uneven, even if he isn’t.

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‘He was sometimes sleeping five times what he normally would’: the insightful AI data behind Jagerbomb’s World Cup recovery

Oscar Williams — Wed, 01 Jul 2026 11:10:24 +0000

When Becky Moody and Jagerbomb flew home from their FEI Dressage World Cup final win in Fort Worth, Texas, the celebrated gelding looked, by every outward measure, completely fine. He had a week off in the field, a fortnight of gentle hacking, and was – as she told The Horse & Hound Podcast – “bright as a button and happy”. But the data picked up something his demeanour didn’t.

How does monitoring horse sleep work?

At home, Becky works with EquiConnect, a vet-built AI stable-camera system installed in 12 stables in one of her barns. The cameras monitor sleep patterns – distinguishing between sternal lying, where a horse rests upright, and lateral lying, when they are “flat out and actually getting proper sleep” – as well as how long each horse spends eating and how active they are through the night.

Horses sleep only a few hours a day, most of it standing, thanks to the stay apparatus – a system of tendons and ligaments that lets them doze upright without tiring.

But they can only reach REM (rapid eye-movement) sleep, the deep restorative stage, when lying fully flat in lateral recumbency, because that phase involves a complete loss of muscle tone.

Vets generally cite a need for around 30-60 minutes of lying down a day to get enough REM sleep, and horses that can’t, or won’t, lie down – whether through pain, stress or an unfamiliar environment – can become REM-sleep deprived.

For Jagerbomb, that data proved illuminating. “He only ever sleeps at night – he never lies down during the day,” Becky explains. “So you can’t really know what his sleeping is like unless you’re looking at the camera information.”

And what the information showed, once he was home from the States, was a horse working hard to recover from his travels across the Atlantic.

“It took him about 16 or 17 days to get back to his normal sleeping patterns at home,” Becky says. Across that recovery period, the cameras logged him catching up dramatically: “He was sometimes sleeping five times what he would normally have slept.”

It is the kind of insight that would be invisible to even the most attentive horseperson. Jagerbomb was away for close to two weeks in total – the same long journey out reversed on the way back, with overnight stops at Liège and Dover – and the after-effects on his rest ran far longer than his outward demeanour suggested.

Why over-competing concerns Becky Moody

For Becky, the data underlines something she already felt strongly about: the hidden toll of travel and competition, and the importance of not asking too much of a horse.

“When we talk about horse welfare, this is one of the things that I think is really relevant,” she says.

Even a relatively standard trip carries a significant load. Travelling to an international show such as Rotterdam – where Becky is speaking to us from – can mean a horse spending well over eight hours on the lorry in a single day, she points out, once ferry queues and French customs (“anything between 50 minutes and three hours”) are factored in.

“I can pretty much, even without the data, know that he doesn’t sleep at a show like he sleeps at home,” she says.

Her response has been to build in a more deliberate recovery. After a major effort, Jagerbomb is given an easy couple of weeks: time in the field, or a few days off, followed by gentle hacking.

Becky’s careful to say there is no single rule. Some horses benefit from a fuller calendar, gaining confidence and learning to settle in the competition environment.

But the difference between a local outing and several days of championship-level sport is, she stresses, enormous. “You have to know your horse and what you’re doing and what is best for them,” she says.

It’s a philosophy now backed by hard data – and one she sums up simply: she is “quite a big one for not over-competing”.

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15 rare horse breeds from Great Britain and around the world

Bethany Stone — Tue, 30 Jun 2026 13:28:31 +0000

Do you have a handle on the world’s rare horse breeds?

All over the world lie elusive and rare breeds that you should definitely know about, many of which are British native breeds. Organisations such as the Rare Breeds Survival Trust (RBST) and individual breed societies oversee populations and campaign for the breeds’ conservation.

Here, we bring you a selection of rare horse breeds from across the globe, and some interesting facts about them…

Rare British horse breeds

The Dales pony. (Image credit: Alamy)

1. The Dales pony

Height: 14hh–14.2hh
Colour(s): black, brown, grey, bay and roan
Place of origin: the Pennines region
RBST status: Priority breed

The Dales pony is native to the upper dales of the eastern slopes of the Pennine range, from the High Peak in Derbyshire to the Cheviot Hills near the Scottish Border.

The breed originates from the crossing of Scotch Galloways used for pack work in the 17th Century, and native mares. According to the Dales Pony Society: “it was that the black Galloways of the mixed herds eventually superseded the Scotch Galloway, and eventually became the Dales Pony through a series of improvements from several sources.”

Bloodlines from the now extinct regional trotter (or roadster) breeds also helped develop the Dales pony we know and love today.

According to the Dales Pony Society: “the combination of strength, agility, thrift, hardiness and high courage, with good conformation and a calm, intelligent nature, makes the Dales Pony a first-class riding and driving pony with all the abilities of a true all-rounder.”

The Cleveland Bay. (Image credit: Alamy)

2. The Cleveland Bay

Height: 16hh–16.2hh
Colour(s): traditionally bay with black points, with a small white star the only permitted white marking
Place of origin: the Cleveland Hills, Yorkshire
RBST status: Priority breed

The Cleveland Bay horse can be traced back to the Chapman horse of the 17th century. According to the Rare Breeds Survival Trust, it is the oldest established native British breed.

In former times, the only acceptable colour was solid bay in colour with no white with the possible exception of a very small star. Nowadays, horses outside this breed standard can still be registered to protect their genetic value to the breed. However, their passport/studbook will note the deviation.

Initially bred in the Cleveland Hills, farmers used Cleveland Bays on the land, for riding and as pack animals.

The Cleveland Bay Horse Society acts as guardian of the breed. Formed in 1884 to preserve and promote the breed, it continues its role today.

The Royal family have given the breed a great boost. The late Queen’s grandfather had been a breeder of Cleveland bays in the 1920’s, and The late Queen purchased a Cleveland Bay colt named Mulgrave Supreme. They have been known to pull Royal carriages.

The Exmoor pony. (Image credit: Alamy)

3. The Exmoor pony

Height: 12hh–13.2hh
Colour(s): bay, brown or black, typically with pale points (mealy markings) on the face, especially around the eyes, flanks and inside the legs
Place of origin: Exmoor, Devon
RBST status: Priority breed

Ponies have been on Exmoor since ancient times, and this environment shaped their size, characteristic hardiness, independent spirit and native intelligence. Many consider Exmoor ponies one of the country’s oldest pony breeds, roaming the land for approximately the last 5,000 years.

In 1818, the crown sold the Royal Forest of Exmoor to industrialist John Knight. The outgoing Warden, Sir Thomas Acland, took 30 of the ponies and founded the Acland herd (now known as the Anchor herd) running on Winsford Hill. Farmers from Withypool and Hawkridge, who had worked for the warden, also bought stock at the dispersal sale and founded several herds which still exist.

Although some breed Exmoor ponies on studs throughout the country, herds of semi-feral free-ranging ponies still run on the moor.

The late 1940s nearly saw the demise of the Exmoor pony.

Today, while still a rare breed, they are a popular riding pony for children and small adults.

The Eriskay pony. (Image credit: Alamy)

4. The Eriskay pony

Height: 12hh–13.2hh
Colour(s): grey, occasionally black or bay
Place of origin: Eriskay, Outer Hebrides
RBST status: Priority breed

The Eriskay pony is among the last surviving remnants of the original native ponies of the Western Isles of Scotland.

Essential to the crofting community, this breed was instrumental in the retrieval of seaweed and peat for fertiliser and fires. People also used them for transport and all kinds of farm work.

Unfortunately, like many rare horse breeds, the Eriskay declined in the 19th century due to the advent of farm machinery. By the early 1970s, there were only 20 pure-breds on the remote island of Eriskay, so a dedicated group of people got together in an attempt to increase numbers. The Eriskay Pony Society was founded in 1995.

According to the breed society, there are around 420 Eriskays left in the world.

The Suffolk horse. (Image credit: Alamy)

5. The Suffolk Horse

Height: 16.1hh–17.2hh
Colour(s): chestnut, from dark liver to light red
Place of origin: Suffolk, England
RBST status: Priority breed

The Suffolk horse is the oldest breed of heavy horse to exist in its present form. They are also known as the Suffolk Punch. In local Suffolk dialect, their chestnut colour is called ‘chesnut’ without the ‘t’.

The earliest stud book of any heavy horse breed, and all modern Suffolks, are descended from just one horse, Crisp’s Horse of Ufford, which was born in 1768.

During the First World War, the strong horse was a popular working animal. Consequently, there were 1000s of Suffolks residing throughout East Anglia. They were known for their ability to be used for draught work and forestry

The rare breed declined rapidly when farmers swapped horses for tractors and machinery, and in 1966 there were only nine Suffolk foals registered.

Today, they are a popular cross to produce heavy sports and show horses, and they are being increasingly seen in ridden heavy horse classes.

The Hackney horse. (Image credit: Agency)

6. The Hackney

Height: 12.2hh–14hh (pony), 14hh–16.2hh (horse)
Colour(s): solid colours, such as black, bay and chestnut, with white markings
Place of origin: Norfolk and Suffolk
RBST status: Priority breed

The Hackney had its origins in the Norfolk and Yorkshire Roadsters (trotting horses) of the 18th and 19th centuries, but is first mentioned in medieval times.

Early thoroughbred stallions had a great influence on the breed. According to the RBST: “Following improvements in the roads during the 16th and 17th century there was an increased demand for carriage horses and the highest status symbol was to be seen out in a stylish equipage with proud high-stepping horses.”

Known to trot at high speed for extended periods, these slender, muscular and elegant animals were perfect for the job. In 1883, the Hackney Horse Society and Stud Book was formed.

The signature high-stepping action characterises both the horse and pony versions of the breed. Efforts to preserve the breed include highlighting its versatility as a driving, riding and show horse.

Rare horse breeds from around the world

The Sorraia horse. (Image credit: Alamy)

7. The Sorraia

Height: 13.3hh–14.4hh
Colour(s): dun of all kinds with primitive markings
Place of origin: Portugal

Sorraia horses are a remnant population of an indigenous, South Iberian wild horse, which survived in the formerly inaccessible lowlands of the river Sorraia in Portugal until the early 1900s.

The Iberian scientist and horse expert Dr Ruy d’Andrade discovered these horses in 1920 and is responsible for their preservation.

Occasionally, locals caught the horses to train for herding and farming. However, the population is largely feral.

Today, there are only 200–300 Sorraias. Private owners hold most of this population.

All Sorraias descend from only 11 or 12 animals that d’Andrade secured in the 1930s, and in-breeding is therefore incredibly high.

The American Cream Draft horse. (Image credit: Education Images/Universal Images Group via Getty Images)

8. The American Cream Draft Horse

Height: 13.5hh–16.3hh
Colour(s): pale cream to gold with a white mane and tail
Place of origin: Iowa, US

The American Cream Draft is a relatively new breed and is the only draft breed to have originated in the United States. Varying reports say there are between 250 and 400 in the world.

Many believe that the Cream traces its roots back to a draft-type mare named Old Granny. She is believed to have been foaled around the turn of the last century in Iowa and was cream in colour.

Gaining popularity in the 1930s, an owner called Clarence T Rieson was especially proactive in breeding Creams. Sadly, they became popular just as mechanisation began making working horses obsolete.

The American Cream Draft Horse was recommended for recognition by the National Stallion Enrolment Board in 1948. In 1950 they were recognised as standard by the Iowa Board of Agriculture.

The American Bashkir Curly. (Image credit: Alamy)

9. The Curly Horse (American Bashkir Curly Horse)

Height: 14hh–16hh
Colour(s): any
Place of origin: Nevada, US

While there is no real limit to a Curly Horse’s size, colour and type, all carry a gene for a unique curly coat of hair.

Curlies are claimed to be the only hypoallergenic horse breed. They originated in North America with less than 1000 in the world today. Some say that a man named Peter Damele discovered them at the turn of the 20th century. He spotted curly-coated horses while riding out in the Nevada desert.

The American Bashkir Curly Registry, the first breed registry, formed in 1971.

Most of today’s curly horses have ancestry to one or more of the three stallions Copper D, Curly Jim or Eli Bad Warrior’s sire (name unknown).

The British Curly Horse and Pony society was founded in 2010.

The Marwari horse. (Image credit: Alamy)

10. The Marwari Horse

Height: 14hh–15.1hh
Colour(s): any
Place of origin: Marwari (Jodhpur)

The Marwari Horse descends from the mounts of the Rajput warriors. A slender, elegant horse, it is recognisable for its inward-turned ear tips, which sometimes touch. With their lineage traced back to Arabian and Mongolian horses, this detail could link them to the Kathiawari horse.

The breed sadly fell out of favour with British colonisers, who preferred the thoroughbred.

Because the breed was rare and faced extinction, an export ban was placed in the 1930s and no Marwari horses were able to leave India. In 2000, Francesca Kelly in the United States received the first shipment of six horses.

Today, the breed is still rare with fewer than 5,000 purebred horses in the entire world.

The German Black Forest horse. (Image credit: Alamy)

11. German Black Forest Horse

Height: 14.2hh–16hh
Colour(s): chestnut (any shade) with a flaxen mane and tail
Place of origin: The Black Forest, southern Germany

This striking, cold-blooded, light draft horse originates from the Black Forest of southern Germany, where breeding dates back to the 15th century. The records of the Abbey of Saint Peter in the Black Forest.

A versatile breed, they were originally used for farm work and forestry. Today, many people ride and drive them.

The rare German Black Forest Horse has many names. These include Schwarzwälder Füchs, Schwarzwälder Kaltblut, Wälder Horse, and Saint Märgener.

As of 2017, it was recorded that there was a population of 88 stallions and 1,077 mares, and one of the key breeding programmes is at the Marbuch Stud horse farm in Germany.

The Canadian horse. (Image credit: Alamy)

12. The Canadian Horse

Height: 14hh–16hh
Colour(s): most commonly black, but other colours appear
Place of origin: Quebec, Canada

The Canadian Horse became the country’s national horse in 2002 and is registered as ‘at risk’ by Heritage Livestock Canada due to dwindling numbers. There are around 6,000 animals globally.

Canadian horses descend from a load of Spanish, Norman and Breton-bred horses sent to Canada in 1665 by King Louis XIV to his subjects in New France. From those foundation horses, a distinct breed of horse emerged, and became known as ‘Le Petit Cheval de Fer’ or ‘The Little Iron Horse’.

The Canadian Horse Breeders Association says the breed is known for “its calm and willing disposition, excellent feet, stamina and strength”. Additionally, the breed is understood to have influenced the Morgan horse.

The Caspian horse: (Image credit: Alamy)

13. The Caspian Horse

Height: 10hh–12hh
Colour(s): any solid colour
Place of origin: ancient Persia (modern day Iran)

Caspian horses average only 11.2hh but despite their height, they considered horses rather than ponies due to their conformation.

The rare horse breed dates back to ancient Persia, at least as far as 3,000 B.C. Experts now believe the Caspian to be the forerunner to the Arab horse and therefore to most of the hot-blooded horses in existence today.

Caspians have spectacular action as well as speed. The breed underwent a resurgence when native Virginian Louise Firouz and her Iranian husband Narcy began a breeding programme, hearing the Caspian was an ideal horse for children.

In the 1970s, the late Prince Philip received a breeding pair of Caspians and conservation developed in the UK. There are fewer than 500 in Britain, and around 2,000 worldwide.

The Newfoundland pony. Photo: Alamy (Image credit: creditUnknown)

14. The Newfoundland Pony

Height: 11–14hh
Colour(s): bay, black, brown, chestnut, dun, grey, roan and white only
Place of origin: Newfoundland, Canada

According to the Newfoundland Pony Society: “The Newfoundland Pony is known for its strength, courage, intelligence, obedience, and common sense.”

During the later part of the 20th century, the estimated population of 12,000 (1970s) dropped to fewer than 100 in the 1980s.

In 1997, the provincial government of Newfoundland passed the Heritage Animals Act of Newfoundland and Labrador. This Act provided legal protection to the Newfoundland Pony by making it illegal to transport Newfoundland Ponies off the Island without export permits. The Act also designated the Newfoundland Pony Society as the public group responsible for registering, promoting and protecting the Newfoundland Pony.

Truly one of the most rare horse breeds, there are an estimated 500–600 animals in Canada and the US.

The Akhal-Teke. (Image credit: Alamy)

15. Akhal-Teke

Height: 14.2hh–16hh
Colour(s): any colour with a metallic sheen, but frequently palamino, cremello and perlino with pale eyes
Place of origin: Karakum desert, Turkmenistan

Developed for endurance and speed, the Akhal-Teke is one of the oldest domesticated horse breeds, with links as far back as a 6th-century Siberian burial site. Here, archaeologists discovered equine remains similar to the Akhal-Teke. According to legend, Macedonian King Alexander the Great once rode them.

In 1881, Turkmenistan became a part of the Russian Empire and the first official breeding farms of Akhal-Tekes were established. Numbers declined due to the turmoil that marked the early days of Soviet Russia.

The breed came to the United States in 1972. In the same year, the breed registry began with the founding of the Akhal-Teke Association of America.

This rare horse breed possesses great athletic ability and crossing with thoroughbreds and sport horses is common. There are an estimated 6,600 in the world.

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The best way to cool horses and the science behind it

Bethany Stone — Mon, 29 Jun 2026 14:47:16 +0000

The best way to cool horses is sometimes debated in the equestrian community. Thankfully, there is a straight answer to the constant discussion between horse owners of to scrape or not to scrape – and it’s backed by science.

Heat is a major by-product of energy production and muscle function during exercise, with the amount of heat generated increasing in line with the intensity of a horse’s work. Therefore, cooling after the exertion of competition is extra important. But why?

The best way to cool horses can save lives

During exercise, a horse only uses a small proportion of stored energy to work his muscles. The rest is lost as heat through the metabolism of the stored energy. This causes heat build-up in the body, so controlling that body temperature, i.e. cooling the horse, is essential to avoid heat exhaustion.

A horse’s normal core body temperature at rest should be between 37.5°C and 38.5°C. When this rises to a dangerous level above 41°C to 42°C, you will see side effects and signs of heat exhaustion. These can range from excessively high heart and respiratory rates to dehydration, fatigue and poor recovery from exercise.

If left untreated, heat exhaustion can develop into heatstroke — a condition in which the body is unable to regulate its own temperature. This can ultimately lead to multi-organ dysfunction, including kidney and liver failure, abnormal heart rhythm, loss of coordination and, in severe cases, death.

The power of evaporation

Evaporative cooling — losing heat through the skin by sweating — is the most important way a horse controls his body temperature during and after exercise. Water from sweat evaporates into the air, taking heat energy with it.

Additionally, about 30% of heat loss occurs through the lungs and respiratory tract during normal breathing.

These methods of heat loss are at their most efficient when the difference between the skin temperature and the surrounding air temperature is greatest, such as in cool, dry weather.

Cooling by sweat evaporation is less effective in hot and humid conditions, because the surrounding air is already saturated with water. That means the difference between air and skin temperature is minimal, so evaporation is much less effective.

Sweat starts to drip from the body but removes just 5-10% of the heat that would have been lost through evaporation.

Continuous application of cold water is the best way to cool horses. Photo: Karen Coumbe (Image credit: creditUnknown)

Should you scrape a horse off after hosing?

While scraping water off a warm horse will do him no harm, it will slow the cooling process in a dangerously hot horse. Therefore, the best way to cool horses at the end of intense exercise or competition is to apply copious amounts of cold water over his whole body, without scraping it off.

But how does this work?

Research has shown that applying cold water (9°C) to a horse after exercise in hot, humid conditions helps bring core body temperature back down to normal faster than using tepid (31°C) water. Cold water has no negative effect, such as increasing the risk of tying-up.

How to explain the scraping myth? Water is a good conductor of heat, which is why cold water on a hot horse heats up – the horse is losing body heat to the water. Some owners might infer this means that the hot water is insulating the horse, but this isn’t true.

Then, the horse is cooled further as the water evaporates, because evaporation cools the surface the water is sitting on.

Along with a team of researchers, Dr David Marlin undertook extensive study in this area leading up to the 1996 Atlanta Olympic Games.

He says: “When faced with a horse that is moderately to dangerously hot after exercise or a horse that isn’t coping in hot weather even at rest, the most effective and safe way to cool is to apply water all over the body.

“Any water cooler than the horse – ideally less than 25°C – will work. The cooler the water the better and quicker the horse will cool down. The best indicator of body temperature and how effective your cooling is, is actually the horse’s breathing rate and how hot they feel to touch.

“Don’t concentrate on specific areas of the body – just apply water continuously either with buckets or a hose from the neck to the tail. Don’t scrape as this wastes time better served applying more cool or cold water and actually results in the surface warming up.”

How to keep competition horses cool

In addition to continuous cooling by applying cold water without scraping, other good ways to keep horses cool include:

keeping them in shade as much as possible
using a misting fan – you’ll find these most often at elite events
ensuring they appropriately fit – fitness and acclimatisation to local weather conditions are additional key factors in avoiding heat stress
maintaining a healthy weight and body condition score – an overweight horse will struggle more
helping with electrolytes – electrolyte supplements help to keep your horse hydrated, and a hydrated horse can cool regulate their temperature better
using ice boots to cool legs – some evidence states cold therapy has a positive effect on tissue metabolism and enzyme activity when skin temperature is reduced to 10°C or when joints are reduced to 30°C. However, ice must be applied thoughtfully and at reasonable intervals to avoid freezer burn

How to tell if a horse has heatstroke

Ambient temperature and humidity levels in the UK rarely reach those of more tropical climates. However, signs of heat exhaustion are not uncommon in horses competing here in the summer — particularly if the weather suddenly becomes hotter.

Signs of heat exhaustion include:

prolonged and delayed recovery (beyond 10 to 20 minutes after the end of the competition)
persistently elevated heart and breathing rates
continued, excessive sweating
shaking
weakness
loss of awareness of surroundings

Ongoing increases in rectal temperature after the end of exercise are a strong indicator of heat stress and the potential to develop heat stroke.

In its most severe form, this can leave a horse unable to sweat, reluctant to drink water or to walk. It can cause staggering, depression and collapse – even death.

Urgent cooling and appropriate veterinary treatment, including intravenous fluids in some cases, is vital.

Correction: 29 June, 2026

This article was first published on 25 June 2026 and it contained an error that stated Dr David Marlin had published a study showing that cold hosing the legs of leisure horses resulted in reducing the subjects’ temperatures. The study was not published by Dr Marlin and he does not endorse this as a cooling method. His position is that effective cooling involves applying cool of cold water over the horse’s entire body, without scraping the water away between applications.

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Summer horse care hacks, tips and products you need in your life to breeze through the season

Bethany Stone — Fri, 26 Jun 2026 08:39:02 +0000

Summer horse care hacks are about so much more than keeping cool. During the season, you want to make the most of the long daylight hours with time at yard and streamline your time at home. You want to keep pesky insects away (using the best fly sprays), avoid sun damage (with sun cream for you and sun cream for your horse), and it might be useful to lighten your mental load with some organisation ideas.

Without further ado, here are some of the summer horse care hacks I recommend to guarantee a smoother season. The best part? Some of the bits and pieces I’ve picked out to help you through summer also have discounts as part of Amazon Prime Day, which ends today (26 June).

Summer horse care hacks and tips you need to try

1. Flies, begone!

Don’t worry, I’m not about to tell you to use fly spray – you definitely already know that! But flies don’t just annoy horses, they annoy us too. Therefore, you also deserve insect repellent!

As well as for hacking, I used this Jungle Formula on a trip to India a while back and don’t recall getting bitten at all, so it’s decent stuff.

While you’re at it, why not pick up a magnetic fly curtain to keep winged pests out of your tack room? I have a set that I use to keep bugs out of my home – being able to keep the door open in the evening without stressing about moths and other flies is genuinely amazing.

2. Make aircon a reality

Whether for your tack room or for use at home, a portable air conditioning unit is a must when heatwaves land – and you just know the next one isn’t far away.

I bought this Delonghi compact air conditioner last year and honestly haven’t looked back. I no longer fear a heatwave and get plenty of sleep to be on my A game for my horse. My miniature schnauzer also absolutely loves it, so if you have a lorry dog who needs a cooldown, I would highly recommend.

Portable air cons are a bit of an investment, but I promise your comfort is completely worth it. Or, if you’re not quite ready to commit to several hundreds of pounds, a tower fan (like this one) will certainly tide you over.

Imagine how much easier it’ll be to pack and move all this around with a trolley. (Image credit: TI Archive)

3. No more heavy hauling

Have you seen these fold-away carts around and about? Some people load their kids into them, others will trundle a picnic to the park, but I say: these babies belong on the yard.

Pile them with haynets, take them to shows, or finally make it from the tack room or feed room to your horse in the elusive single trip with feed, hay, tack and rugs all safely ensconced within.

4. Cue the music

Long summer days are begging to be spent at the yard. Personally, I love poo-picking as a summer activity, and taking a bluetooth speaker (I have this one) can crank up the good times.

Worried about phone battery? Pack yourself a power bank (like this one) for peace of mind.

5. Get savvy with storage

Winter rugs clogging your tack room? And, at home, are you sick of the sight of your long riding coats and waterproof breeches?

Use these vacuum compaction bags to store them without taking up space. You’re welcome!

Need something to store your rugs in? Check out this massive plastic storage chest.

Once you use a hose attachment, you’ll never be satisfied with putting your finger over the hose again. (Image credit: Alamy)

6. Happy hosing

A hosepipe without an attachment is awkward to use – using your finger over the end only goes so far. Instead, try this hose attachment with loads of settings to cool your horse.

Not only that, there’s a reservoir for your pick of the best horse shampoo that will make bathing your horse easier than ever.

7. I’m a “fan” of this one…

Airflow in the stable is the thing to help keep your horse cool while he’s in. What’s more, a gentle breeze can also disrupt midge flightpaths, meaning they leave your horse alone.

You’ll want a portable fan (like this one) to help achieve this. They can be hung or stood on the floor and many have great battery life, so you don’t need to worry about having any power.

Want to cool down on the go? I just discovered this Shark Chill Pill hi-speed personal misting fan – I can see it being a hit at summer shows like the Royal International. If you want something at a cheaper price point, this personal fan is in the Prime Day sale.

8. Slip, slap, slop

Sun protection is an essential summer horse care hack, but it’s super important for humans, too. I always take suncream with me to the yard on summer days for top-ups, especially to my face.

This viral sun cream is currently in the Prime Day sale and one of my faves.

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10 tips for travelling in hot weather with your horse – and when to stay at home

Bethany Stone — Tue, 23 Jun 2026 14:34:17 +0000

When temperatures rise, ensuring your horse stays cool, comfortable and hydrated on the move becomes a little more complicated. Here’s how to succeed

Travelling horses in hot weather isn’t impossible, but it requires thoughtful preparation to ensure equine welfare is maintained.

In the UK, professional transporters are not allowed to move horses in temperatures exceeding 30°C – and this is a good rule of thumb for private owners to follow.

Tips for travelling horses in hot weather

Here’s how to best ensure equine welfare when transporting horses in hot weather.

1. Do your homework

Try to plan your travel around the weather conditions and avoid travelling during high temperatures and high humidity. If it is unavoidable, pick the times of day when it’s likely to be coolest.

Setting off early in the morning, for example, will make the experience much more pleasant for both you and your horse.

2. Plan ahead

Before setting off, ensure horses are fully hydrated by providing them with unrestricted access to forage and water for at least six hours with plenty of space to rest and relax.

3. What to wear?

While you might usually reach for one of the best travel rugs for a journey, it’s unlikely to be needed in hot weather. Any equipment on the horse’s body may contribute to overheating, the risks are likely to outweigh the benefits on a hot day.

Also consider leg protection. Thick travel boots may cause sweating, when a lighter pair of breathable brushing boots or cross-country boots combined with over-reach boots on all four legs will offer a basic level protection for a horse who typically travels well.

4. Prepare for the worst

While it sounds pessimistic, when travelling by road you just never know when or for how long you might get held up. Therefore, make sure you have plenty of forage and water on board for top-ups to keep your horses happy and healthy, and be confident you know what to do if you find yourself stuck on the road with a horse.

5. Provide good-quality forage

Access to quality forage will help maintain a healthy digestive system and provide an ongoing source of energy, as well as creating a small reservoir of fluid in the horse’s gut to help keep them hydrated.

You could also give a small fibre feed ahead of travel for this reason.

Loading up and travelling early in the day often means you can avoid the worst of the heat. (Image credit: Alamy)

6. Boost airflow

Opening the rear section of a trailer helps draw hot air out while fresh air is pulled in through the windows. But avoid travelling with the front door above the ramp open as there is a risk of flying debris being blow into your horse’s face.

If you have a roof vent, open this at the back, as it also draws warm air up and out of the transport while you are driving. You can also use clip-on portable fans to help keep air circulating.

7. Stick to frequent watering intervals

In normal conditions, horses should be offered water at least every four and a half hours while travelling. In hot weather, that interval should be shorter.

This is at your discretion, but use what you know. How hot and dry is it? Has your horse eaten and drunk well in the hours before setting off? Is he sweaty? Is he overweight? All these factors will help you decide how frequently to stop and offer water.

8. Make water tempting

Anyone who has offered their horse a drink in an unfamiliar place will know that horses can be choosy about the type of container they will drink from and the taste of the water. However, it’s important to stress that this doesn’t mean they’re not thirsty.

If possible, try and take water from home in a large capacity container (like this one) and provide it in a bucket they are used to drinking from.

Additionally, it’s always beneficial to familiarise them to different containers in case you can’t take your own. You can also try flavouring the water with apple juice.

9. Minimise stress

Horses can become dehydrated more quickly when they are stressed or unsettled so try to minimise this wherever possible.

Loading and unloading are two of the main stressors for horses when travelling so make sure you do as much as you can to keep the process calm and relaxed.

Practising often without the pressure of heading to a show or event will help it become second nature.

When you are on a schedule, leave plenty of time to load to avoid time pressure.

Ensure the vehicle is well ventilated and drive carefully to make the journey as comfortable as possible.

10. Prepare for the arrival

As with pre-planning before a journey, it’s just as important to give plentiful forage and water upon arrival at your destination. If you’re travelling to a show or event then make sure your horse has time to relax, graze, eat hay and drink before competing or beginning exercise. You could also feed a rehydration mash.

Risks of travelling horses in hot weather

Dehydration is the greatest risk and can affect any horse.

Signs of dehydration include:

fatigue
weakness
dullness
loss of performance
decreased appetite
abnormal drinking, such as taking longer than usual draughts or gulping
infrequent urination
dark urine
red or congested mucus membranes

Recommended ways to prevent or correct dehydration include:

making clean, fresh water available at all times
offering additional water sources with an electrolyte supplement
administering electrolytes around two hours before travel
feeding haylage, which has a higher moisture content than hay, or using soaked hay if appropriate
standing your horse in the shade as much as possible
offering water after exercise and packing a rehydration mash to administer if necessary

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Under-25 national champion Alice Casburn recalls the rocky start of her home-bred superstar

Martha Terry — Mon, 22 Jun 2026 15:30:11 +0000

Topspin is a second-generation home-bred who fulfilled a grandmother’s dreams, most recently carrying Alice Casburn to take the under-25 national championship at Bramham.

Alice was six years old when Topspin arrived in the world, a giant fourth foal from his 15.3hh mother Capriati. He still lives in the stable where he was born.

“Mum’s room had a TV where we could watch the foaling,” Alice says. “I wasn’t that interested in horses then, but foals were exciting.”

Although Alice describes Spin as her mother Caroline’s “favourite child”, he lived up to his name from the outset.

“He was so sharp, I was forever falling off,” says Caroline. “Friends were always catching him and picking me up. But from the start, he felt like he could jump anything.”

Caroline produced Spin mainly for showjumping, handing over the reins to Alice to event – and credits her “short body and long legs” for enabling her to sit his spins.

“He can be vile,” Alice says, lovingly. “But I understand him; some of it is naughtiness, some is insecurity. I just laugh at him now – I’d either laugh or cry.”

From this rocky start, he’s fulfilled the family’s dreams.

“My granny helped Mum with the breeding and used to joke that Spin and I would get to Burghley one day – when he wasn’t even managing at novice.”

What canny foresight. Topspin and Alice not only made it to Burghley, but have finished in the top 10 in all of their four runs.

Alice and Topspin have multiple five-star completions on their record. (Image credit: Nico Morgan)

Topspin breeding information

Name: Topspin

Stable name: Spin

Height: 17hh

Year of birth: 2008

Breeding: by Zento (16.3½hh) out of Capriati xx (15.3hh) by El Conquistador xx

Breeder: Caroline Casburn

Best results: fifth twice at Burghley CCI5*, fifth at Luhmühlen CCI5*, 2026 under-25 national champion at Bramham, young rider European team gold and individual bronze

Topspin’s pedigree chart (Image credit: creditUnknown)

Meet the parents

Caroline laughs that her premise for breeding Topspin was not entirely rational. She’d evented his grandmother, Spangle, at advanced. But out of five foals, she produced only one filly, Capriati.

“Capriati wasn’t the best to breed from in hindsight; sharp with an ever-ready battery,” says Caroline. “We bred from her to keep the line, but also as she was so hot-headed we didn’t like riding her!”

Stallion AI recommended Zento, for his quiet temperament: “Although Spin’s sharp, he’s workable,” Caroline says. “If you can stay on, you can bring him back to walk and explain things to him. You’d ride Capriati for three hours and never wear her out.”

Other facts about Topspin’s breeding

1. Topsin’s great-grandsire (grandsire of Capriati) was Derby winner Mill Reef.

2. His sire’s half-brother Cento won Olympic team showjumping gold in 2000.

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How to keep horses cool in a heatwave with helpful tips for instant results

Bethany Stone — Mon, 22 Jun 2026 12:39:08 +0000

We’re expecting “How to keep horses cool in summer” will be a popular Google search this week. Here in the UK we experienced record temperatures of more than 30ºC in May and some areas are predicted to reach 40ºC this week. How many of you had that on your 2026 bingo card?

A heatwave that early in the year was unusual, and this week will be even more uncomfortable – and dangerous. Therefore, owners need to think about how to keep a horse cool right now, and we’ve got you covered. Here are Horse & Hound’s top tips on for keeping horses cool when things get really hot.

How to keep horses cool when temperatures soar

The number one piece of advice for working horses in hot weather is to exercise them as early in the morning as possible. While the evening could be an option, check your weather app in advance. It can still be well above 25ºC at 9pm in a heatwave, which might not be suitable for you or your horse.

Safe stabling

1. If your horse is normally stabled at night and out during the day, consider reversing his turnout times to avoid the hottest temperatures and the worst of the flies – especially if he has limited shade or shelter in the field.

Before deciding, check his stable isn’t actually more uncomfortable in the heat than his paddock. If there’s poor ventilation and no through breeze, his stable could be very stuffy. Setting up a portable fan out of reach of your horse may help to increase airflow and have a cooling effect.

2. If there is no permanent shelter or tree cover in your horse’s paddock, but you’d like him to stay out, you could use some sheeting to rig up a safe, temporary area of shade so he has the option.

Turnout tips

3. A light coloured fly rug or summer sheet works better than a dark coloured one for keeping the horse cool, because white is best for reflecting the sun’s heat.

A rug that has a loose weave material lets the horse’s body heat and sweat out more than a tight weave, but as a compromise provides less effective protection from the smallest flies and midges.

A wet rug has hugely increased cooling properties, so hosing the rug down while it is on your horse multiple times a day is worthwhile in the hottest temperatures.

4. Bringing your horse in for a cool hose off and turning him back out without scraping off the water will give him respite from the heat. If you can do it more than once, so much the better.

5. Pink skin and white areas on the face and heels are most commonly affected by sunburn because they have less skin pigment and hair coverage, so remember to apply one of the best suncreams for horses to these areas.

A fly mask with UV protective properties may also be helpful. Plus, those with a built-in nose net offer extra protection for pink noses.

Hot horses will appeciate having the option to seek shade or shelter. Photo: Alamy (Image credit: creditUnknown)

How to keep horses cool while travelling

6. If you have to transport your horse in the hot weather, leave as early as possible. This avoids travelling in the worst heat and reduces the risk of getting stuck in traffic. Professional transporters in the UK are not allowed to move horses in temperatures exceeding 30°C – and this is a good rule of thumb for private owners to follow.

7. If you transport your horse, ensure all suitable windows are open to keep fresh air flowing through the horsebox. You can also use portable fans to help keep your horse cool.

If you have a roof vent, opening only the rear section while you are moving helps to draw the hot air out of the vehicle while cool air can enter through the windows. On arrival, the roof vent should be opened fully.

However, your horse might not be cooler standing on the lorry or trailer, even if he is out of the direct sun – think of dogs in hot cars. Consider whether he would be better off outside in the shade.

How to cool down a horse quickly

8. If you suspect that your horse may be suffering from heat stroke, put him in the shade and cool him continuously with free-flowing cool water.

The best way to do this is with a hosepipe, but if the hose has been sitting in the sun, make sure you run it first to remove any water that was left in the pipe. This water can be extremely hot and cause scalding so take care when you check it so you don’t get burnt either.

If you don’t have a hose, use a watering can or pour buckets over your horse instead. You will likely have to refill the vessels and repeat several times.

Another key is to allow the water to run off or evaporate without scraping off the excess liquid. The belief that leaving water on a horse will “cook” him is an equestrian urban myth – it simply isn’t true. The best way to cool a horse down quickly is to allow the water to draw heat away from the horse’s skin by evaporation.

You should also offer the horse water to drink every few minutes. If the horse appears wobbly (ataxic) then try to keep them walking in the shade, while continuing to apply cold water. If signs persist, contact your vet as a matter of urgency.

For unlimited access to advice on how best to care for your horse, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

Want to transition your horse to barefoot? A farrier, hoof boot maker and barefoot specialist shares his helpful practical tips

Bethany Stone — Mon, 22 Jun 2026 11:06:40 +0000

Farrier Tom Broadbridge has overseen the care of numerous barefoot horses – here’s what he has learned

Considering transitioning your horse to barefoot, but not sure how to go about it? Spend any amount of time on social media and you’ll soon find that barefoot trimming and everything surrounding it is a hot topic.

“To my mind, enabling the horse to go barefoot is the gold standard,” says Tom Broadbridge, who qualified as a farrier in 2003 and is now purely a barefoot hoofcare professional.

“There are times when a horse can’t immediately go completely barefoot. Sometimes horses that look sound with shoes on may not be free from inflammation. Consequently, their unsoundness may be more obvious when the shoes are removed.

“If a horse is not sound, they may need another form of hoof protection after removing the shoes, such as hoof boots. In such cases, immediately going completely barefoot may not be best.”

Tom advises against making the transition alone.

“Firstly, ensure you’ve built a strong team of equine professionals around you. Communication with them is key.

“Speak to your vet and your hoof care professional for their advice rather than plunging straight into taking the shoes off.”

Why transition a horse to barefoot?

Keeping horses naturally is a significant motivator in the transition from shod to barefoot. There are several other reasons owners make the change too, including:

1. Cost

With the cost-of-living crisis applying increasing financial pressures – and leaving some owners unable to make ends meet – the thought of ditching a large six-weekly bill appeals to many. However, Tom advises proceeding with caution.

“If finances are your only motivation, I’d advise you to think again,” he says. “Barefoot is not necessarily the easy or cheap option. Keeping a barefoot horse requires a holistic approach, and you may find mounting costs with equine professionals in other areas of your horse’s management to address soundness without shoes, as they may mask lameness.”

2. Performance

“A horse often gains a more natural movement without the restriction of steel shoes,” explains Tom. “Watch the horses in the dressage arena that are barefoot.”

3. Retirement or semi-retirement

Many owners reassess their horses’ lifestyle when they reduce or remove their ridden routine. As well as removing shoes, many opt for 24/7 turnout or retirement livery, too.

4. Eliminates shoe pulling

If you have a horse that regularly pulls shoes, this leads to frequent call-outs mid-shoeing cycle and risks damage to the hoof.

5. A last resort

“I specialised in remedial farriery years ago and thought it was the key to everything,” explains Tom. “Then, you’d have cases where you’d throw every specialised shoe and technique you knew to fix a lame horse, but nothing would work.

“One client sent their horse to a barefoot rehab yard, and the horse came sound. It was one of the most exciting moments of my career. In fact, it was the beginning of my transition to barefoot.”

You may need something sharper than a hoof pick to remove debris from the white line. Photo: Alamy (Image credit: creditUnknown)

How to transition a horse to barefoot

Consulting your hoofcare professional alongside your vet and an independent nutritionist is the best way to set your horse up for a successful barefoot life.

That said, there’s much you can do in the months ahead to ease the transition.

Feeding

Ideally consulting with an independent nutritionist, Tom recommends reviewing and reducing the amount of sugar in your horse’s diet, from bucket to haynet.

“Sugar is a focus point because it is so influential in terms of inflammation,” says Tom. “But an independent nutritionist can help you review the micronutrients your horse is receiving for overall health and ensure they are optimally fed, too.”

Workload

“If I decided to take off my trainers and immediately go for a 20-mile walk, my feet would be in a sorry state,” says Tom. “It can be the same with newly-barefoot horses.”

While some individuals adapt quickly to work on hard or stony surfaces, others need time to adjust. Tom advises looking over your horse’s workload, scaling back for a period, then building up to your usual routine.

“Groundwork can be a great place to start,” adds Tom.

“If you’ve ever walked on uneven tarmac with no shoes, you’ll know how unpleasant it can feel and the effect on your gait.

“Now carry a saddle and a person. You’ve made an uncomfortable task even more difficult.”

All at once?

If a horse is shod all round, some owners choose to remove the back shoes first.

“The front feet carry about two-thirds of a horse’s weight,” says Tom. “Some owners like to remove the hind shoes first to allow the horse to adjust how he loads and potentially ease the transition.”

However, others may argue that there is a height differential between the shod and barefoot hooves, and that can cause unintended issues.

How to support a horse while transitioning to barefoot

Tom says it’s perfectly normal for newly barefoot horses to feel sensitive on stony ground.

“Anyone who was used to wearing shoes would be,” he says.

“However, if a barefoot horse appears lame on any surface, it is a cause for concern and action needs to be taken.”

Always gain advice from a qualified equine professional.

If you regularly walk your horse on a hard, uneven track – for example, to reach his paddock – hoof boots are a useful tool.

Tom, who designs and produces his own range of hoof boots, says it helps avoid the cumulative effect of contact with sub-optimal ground.

“Newly barefoot horses who walk on stones might develop slight bruising.

“This might be pretty inconsequential as a one-off, but if it’s a daily thing you get bruising forming on top of bruising, and that can become very sore. What’s more, it can cause inflammation and affect the rest of the body due to compensatory issues.

“Using hoof boots for any activity on surfaces, such as stony tracks, can reduce issues, especially in those early stages, by protecting your horse’s soles.

“Gradually introducing different surfaces when the horse is completely barefoot allows them to adjust, and improves hoof health over time.”

Hoof boots like these Pioneer ones help horses transition to barefoot and support hooves through work. Photo: Tom Broadbridge (Image credit: creditUnknown)

Choosing and fitting hoof boots

You can find many different hoof boot styles on the market, including Tom’s own design, Pioneer Sports hoof boots, which are a self-adjusting style to accommodate natural movement and a growing hoof throughout the trim cycle.

Each company has its own fitting and measurement guidelines.

Tom recommends consulting your hoofcare professional on a style and fit to suit your horse when seeking hoof boot advice.

“Some companies, like The Hoof Boutique, will give you advice based on images and measurements you send them or provide a fit kit.”

Dealing with hoof cracks

When transitioning a horse from shod to barefoot, hoof wall cracks or wall degradation are common.

“If your horse has been shod for quite some time, you’ll have a series of nail holes,” Tom explains.

“Here, the horn is weak and will break away.”

Always seek advice from the hoof care professional. Many riders reach for hoof conditioners and moisturisers, but Tom advises it is bacterial or fungal infection within the hoof wall, not dryness, that causes low-level cracking.

“Use an anti-bacterial and anti-fungal product on the hoof horn from about a centimetre below the coronary band,” he suggests. “This permeates the horn and tackles the infection.

“New growth is imbued with the treatment and the cracking should stop. You can actually smell the product when you trim the hoof.”

He adds that the white line can stretch due to flaring, meaning small stones and other debris become lodged within.

“You need a tool sharper and thinner than a hoof pick, such as a bradle, to gently clear it,” advises Tom.

“I’d then use a packing material [like this one] to preserve the white line.”

A toothbrush or a hoof pick brush like this one is ideal for applying an anti-bacterial treatment. Photo: Alamy (Image credit: creditUnknown)

What’s the best time of year to transition a horse to barefoot?

For Tom, there are pros and cons to a summer versus a winter transition.

“If you transition in the winter, the ground is generally softer, but so are the feet,” he says. “So, the sole is more vulnerable to bruising and potentially more sensitive to stony underfooting.

“In the summer, the feet are generally harder and the sole less flexible, but also the ground is also harder and possibly more uncomfortable underfoot.”

The time of year you choose to transition will depend on what you already know about your horse’s feet. Ultimately, Tom recommends avoiding spring and autumn when the grass flushes and its sugar content intensifies.

“At these points in the year there’s a real boost of energy and sugar in the grass,” Tom explains. “This causes an instant response in the body that might lead to inflammation. It doesn’t need to be as severe as acute laminitis – even a small amount of inflammation in the body can make horses more sensitive.

“My horse has been barefoot for nine years. When the weather changes and the grass shoots up, he’ll feel the odd stone here and there where he wouldn’t have a couple of weeks before.

“And he’s not transitioning – he’s well into barefoot life.”

Ultimately, success will come from strategising ahead of removing your horse’s shoes.

“Start planning your transition while your horse is still shod,” says Tom. “Making dietary adjustments in advance, for example, can help minimise soreness, maintain hoof wall integrity and altogether make the transition far smoother.”

For unlimited access to advice on how best to care for your horse, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

Considering artificial insemination for your mare? Here’s what you need to know first…

Bethany Stone — Thu, 18 Jun 2026 14:45:35 +0000

Artificial insemination in horses is a technically demanding but routine part of modern equine veterinary practice. It is a modern breeding technique that can be incredibly complex and requires accuracy and strict biosecurity, plus good timing and organisation to be successful. In the UK, it sits firmly within the professional responsibilities outlined by the Royal College of Veterinary Surgeons (RCVS).

If you’re planning to use artificial insemination (AI) for your mare this breeding season, how can you maximise the chances of a successful equine pregnancy? We outline the most important points to consider when using artificial insemination in horses and explain what’s involved in the process.

How is artificial insemination done in horses?

Routinely, the process is as follows…

1. Semen collection

This begins with appropriate preparation of the stallion and the environment. In well-managed studs, stallions are trained to mount a phantom (dummy) mare rather than a live mare. This significantly reduces risk to both animals and handlers. An artificial vagina (AV) is carefully prepared to replicate physiological conditions – specifically temperature, pressure, and lubrication – so that ejaculation occurs in a controlled and humane manner.

The veterinary surgeon, or suitably trained personnel under direction, must handle the stallion in a way that minimises stress and risk of injury. Hygiene is critical: the AV must be sterile or single-use lined. In addition, collection vessels must be clean and pre-warmed. Obvious contaminants, such as dirt or urine, must be avoided.

Poor technique here can compromise semen quality and ultimately fertility outcomes.

2. Semen evaluation and handling

Once collected, semen is assessed promptly and properly. This directly informs clinical decisions about whether the ejaculate is suitable for use and how it should be processed.

Evaluation typically includes motility (movement), concentration, and morphology (assessing size and shape). This is all carried out under controlled temperature conditions to avoid cold shock. Accuracy in terms of process and record-keeping is essential.

3. Extension and preparation

To preserve sperm viability and produce multiple doses, semen is diluted with an appropriate extender following evaluation. Extenders are designed to buffer pH, provide energy substrates, and reduce bacterial growth.

Controlled temperature conditions are essential to dilution. Abrupt changes can irreversibly damage sperm membranes. Again, traceability and documentation are important, particularly where transporting semen between premises.

4. Storage and transport

If semen is not used immediately, it may be cooled for short-term storage or frozen for long-term preservation.

5. Insemination and post-breeding care

Your vet will manually insert the semen at the optimum time using a pipette. The mare is typically scanned via ultrasound 24–48 hours post-insemination to ensure ovulation has occurred and to check for any fluid buildup in the uterus. A second ultrasound scan is performed 14–16 days after breeding to confirm conception.

There are various benefits of AI being carried out at a dedicated breeding centre. (Image credit: Peter Nixon)

Can AI be carried out at home?

AI can be carried out at home, at an equine clinic or at a specialist breeding centre. So what might influence your choice?

“Studies show that pregnancy rates improve with minimised potential stress,” says equine vet and breeding expert Emma Cooper MRCVS. “Certain horses may be more relaxed at home, but you will ideally need stocks for ultrasound scanning and insemination.”

Insemination with frozen semen is particularly difficult to carry out at home, yet fresh and chilled also need a vet’s input.

“An AI package at a stud or clinic could well prove cheaper, as driving and visit fees often add up to more,” says Emma. “The benefit of a clinic is that the vet can examine a mare as often as necessary without the owner having to be there.

“Every mare is different, but an experienced repro vet with knowledge of AI will be able to see more detail in the uterus and follicle to tell exactly where she is in her cycle. Better care will most likely bring a better result – and fewer scans could lower costs.”

Vets recommend turning your mare out with another who has a similarly-aged foal. Photo: Alamy (Image credit: creditUnknown)

Pros and cons of artificial insemination in horses

It sounds so simple – and often it is – yet AI can disappoint the unwary. Take a look below at its pros and cons in summary:

Advantages

Reduced risk of injury to mare and stallion
Access to geographically distant or elite stallions
Allows use of chilled or frozen semen (genetic flexibility)
Better disease control (no direct contact)
Precise timing with ovulation → often good conception rates

Disadvantages

Requires veterinary expertise and monitoring (costly)
Variable fertility with frozen semen
Not permitted in some studbooks (e.g. Weatherbys/The Jockey Club for thoroughbreds)
Handling/storage logistics for semen

How much does AI cost?

Artificial insemination in horses can incur rapidly mounting costs, which you will need to add to the other costs of breeding a horse.

Pre-breeding assessment

Vets recommend a thorough pre-breeding check, which should include a complete gynaecological assessment, including ultrasound and appropriate tests for infections that can affect fertility (such as a blood test for equine viral arteritis and a swab for contagious equine metritis) as well as a general health check, including a worm egg count.

The mare’s vaccinations should also be up to date.

This is likely to cost between £215–300, including VAT, and is vitally important.

Cost of insemination

Costs for insemination can vary hugely depending on what clinical costs include. However, in addition to the cost of semen, you should be budgeting:

Chilled semen package = at least £525, including two pregnancy scans (including VAT)
Frozen semen package = at least £625, including two pregnancy scans (including VAT)

There are many potential additional costs, such as sedation, treatment for infection or infertility, such as uterine lavages and other additional treatments.

In other cases, the mares will be straightforward, and the costs may be less.

Be wary of additional charges

“Make sure you know the costs up front,” says Emma. “Ask if stud or clinic prices include extras such as livery, drugs and pregnancy scans, and whether you’ll pay the same the second time around if your mare does not conceive on the first cycle.

“Most AIs are fine, but complications can occur. Not all mares cycle every 21 days. Others produce excessive uterine fluid so that when the embryo enters the uterus it cannot survive.

“There’s also a reasonably high rate of twinning with some mares. The uterus is typically not large enough to sustain both embryos. While there’s a high success rate if one is ‘squeezed’ within the appropriate time, this does involve a risk to the other one.

“We don’t always know of potential problems until we start looking.”

Consider that a healthy foal, or that the foal will mature into a quality horse, is not a given. As such, careful consideration is essential from the outset.

What is the success rate of artificial insemination in horses?

Conformation, temperament, size, soundness and freedom from hereditary conditions – all these will influence your choice of stallion. But will your chosen stallion’s semen get your mare in foal?

You also want to obtain a fertility record from the stud manager. That said, relevant fertility data can be hard to obtain, warns Fred Barrelet, a Newmarket reproduction vet.

“The key measure of a stallion’s fertility is his per-cycle conception rate, but many stud owners don’t publish this,” he says. “The number of mares he gets into foal tells you nothing about the time taken. What you need to know is the breeding efficiency achieved with his semen.

“Ask the stallion owner, stud or semen vendor for the number of mares that become pregnant per cycle. A lot depends on management and the individual mare, but you need to hear an answer of about 50%.”

Semen quality/handling, timing and the standard of clinical management also affect success, although no single variable determines outcome. Rather, the pregnancy rate reflects how well these elements align.

Mare selection

Younger mares generally have higher conception rates. With advancing age, there is a higher incidence of degenerative changes within the uterus. Such changes mean that after breeding, fluid and inflammatory debris do not clear as well, resulting in an increased chance of persistent uterine infections.

This is one of the most common causes of subfertility.

In addition, the cervix of older mares may not relax as effectively during oestrus, which can hinder both semen deposition and uterine clearance.

Egg quality also declines with age, so even when fertilisation occurs, early embryonic loss is more likely. So clinically, this means older mares often require more intensive management.

Semen types: what are your options?

A good semen sample will contain billions of sperm, but which type is best for your mare?

Fresh: straight from the stallion (who must be on-site or nearby), fresh semen offers the highest fertility rates and lasts longest once inseminated. Its lifespan is usually three hours from collection, but this varies between stallions.
Chilled: next best fertility-wise. Chilled semen is mixed with extenders, preservatives and antibiotics to lengthen its lifespan to up to 30 hours. This enables insemination at home and widens stallion choice to further afield in the UK, or even Europe. Timing is still an issue: it must be ready at the premises prior to your mare ovulating.
Frozen: fertility rates associated with frozen semen have improved with the use of extenders and veterinary management. It can be stored ready for use and opens up a worldwide pool of stallions. However, it requires considerable veterinary input, and can push up costs (insemination must take place within six hours prior to, and four hours after ovulation). Sperm from certain stallions has better post-thaw motility – swimming ability – than others.

Semen choice will largely depend upon your mare’s age and breeding health. Fresh or chilled will maximise an older mare’s chances of conceiving – provided it arrives on time, prior to ovulation.

Mares are assessed using ultrasound throughout the process. (Image credit: Jon Stroud Media)

Getting the timing right

During the horse breeding season, a mare ovulates (releases an egg) every 18-24 days – a process called cycling. Each egg forms inside the ovary in a structure known as a follicle.

“A mare is in season – or oestrus – for four to seven days, although this can vary from two to 12 days,” says Emma. “She is then out of season (in dioestrus), for 14-15 days.”

Timing and logistics therefore play a crucial role in successful AI.

“The stud team must work within a relatively narrow biological window as to when the mare is going to ovulate working with perishable materials,” adds Emma.

“It can be harder than one might think to predict ovulation and select the best time to inseminate a mare. Each mare is individual and reproductive cycles will vary. Therefore, veterinary teams must monitor her frequently and diligently monitoring using ultrasound, particularly when breeding from older mares.”

Vets can manipulate the point of ovulation to enable insemination of semen at the optimum moment, according to its type.

“During a season, follicle growth goes hand-in-hand with an increase in the oedema [fluid] within the mare’s uterus,” explains Emma. “When the follicle reaches a key size of 35mm we can use either one of two ovulation-inducing drugs, Chorulon and Ovuplant.

“The mare should then ovulate within 24-48 hours, which gives us a window to order and inseminate semen prior to ovulation. Follicle size may be smaller, though, particularly in ponies, so it helps to know a mare’s breeding history.”

Health is key

According to the British Equestrian Veterinary Association (BEVA), due to the serious concern of the spread of infectious diseases, it is best practice to only accept semen from a stallion for AI tested for contagious equine metritis (CEM), equine viral arteritis (EVA) and equine infectious anaemia (EIA) after 1 January 2026.

Generally, vets request that this certification arrive with the semen at delivery, otherwise they will be unable to proceed with insemination. This is already mandatory for all EU/foreign stallions – it is illegal to use semen from an unknown source or imported from abroad without the required health documentation.

It is wise to request this certification for UK stallions as well.

How do I prepare my mare for artificial insemination?

Good general health is essential for a mum-to-be, so keep your mare’s vaccination and worming programmes up to date and her hooves and teeth well maintained.

But how else can you prepare her for AI?

“We’d rather see a mare too light than too heavy, so aim for fair condition,” says Edward Matson of Twemlows Stud Farm and AI/ET (embryo transfer) centre. “Like females of all species, horses are more likely to conceive on a rising plane of nutrition.”

If you’re sending your mare to a stud or clinic for AI, pre-entry health requirements could include checks for CEM, EVA, EIA and strangles.

Edward points out that pre-breeding examinations are not always definitive in predicting a mare’s chances of conceiving.

“It is difficult to assess a maiden [first-time] mare’s reproductive health before she comes into season,” he says. “A specialised equine repro vet might suggest endometrial swabs or more complex biopsies with a potential problem mare.

“Around 80% of problems occur once the semen is inserted in the uterus, however. You can’t tell too much till then.

“If your mare has foaled previously, give the vet as much information as you can about her breeding history. This should include her own breeding information, the type of semen used and the cycle she conceived on – or why she didn’t. This can save a lot of time and money.

“Be realistic with an older maiden mare. She may be super-fertile or she may not, but you won’t know until you try.”

For unlimited access to advice on how best to care for your horse, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

Why do horses wear sunglasses?

Georgia Guerin — Thu, 18 Jun 2026 09:05:13 +0000

The first time you see a horse wearing sunglasses you will probably do a double take. They’re certainly not commonplace, but we’re seeing them in use more frequently and they’re not just a quirky fashion statement.

Horses wear sunglasses (often called equine goggles or visors) for a variety of reasons that are all centred around protecting their eyes. The most common reasons include:

managing conditions, such as equine recurrent uveitis, headshaking or photosensitivity
UV protection
glare reduction, improving a horse’s vision in bright conditions
extra protection during recovery from injury or surgery
high-risk sports, to prevent injuries from flying dirt kickback or balls, for example

Just like humans, horses benefit from the protection sunglasses, goggles and visors offer from harmful UV rays and sun glare. Horses with little or no pigment in the skin around their eyes are particularly vulnerable and can suffer from sunburn, squinting, watery eyes, sunburn, cataracts, and even cancer.

Horses can wear googles or visors for a variety of reasons. (Image credit: Alamy)

When can a horse wear sunglasses?

Unlike fly masks, equine sunglasses, googles or visors of any kind should only be worn when ridden or supervised. This is because of the potential for them to move or get caught if a horse rubs their face.

Visors are not permitted to be worn in competition by many governing bodies (including British Dressage, British Eventing and British Showjumping), so it’s recommended that you check individual rulebooks first. They are permitted in some cases by the British Horse Racing Authority, but must be declared in advance.

Horses may wear visors for snow polo due to the glare from the snow. (Image credit: Alamy)

Googles, visors and sunglasses are, however, also marketed for use in the following sports and areas of equestrianism across the world:

hacking or trail riding
barrel racing
eventing or cross-country
showjumping
endurance
racing
polo, including snow polo
mounted shooting protection
skijoring

Tinted lenses reduce the amount of light able to get through, just like human sunglasses. (Image credit: Getty Images)

Types of sunglasses for horses

Some visors – those with transparent lenses – only serve to protect a horse’s eyes from trauma, which could be caused by flying dirt or other objects.

Goggles or sunglasses with tinted lenses offer varying levels of light blocking, although this is not the same as UV protection. Horse sunglasses are also assigned filter categories (just like human sunglasses) depending on the strength of the filter, ranging from zero to four, with category four being the darkest.

Below are one model’s (the eQuick eVysor) visible light transmission percentages for their available tinted lenses, along with the filter categories for context.

Transparent: 98.08%, category 0
Mirrored orange: 46.28%, category 1
Mirrored blue: 42.64%, category 2
Mirrored green: 38.41%, category 2
Mirrored rainbow: 19.85%, category 2
Darker: 10.45%, category 3

Visors typically fit over the ears and secure under the jaw. Some have elasticated straps to make them easier to put on and take off.

Police horses may wear specialist visors in riot or public order situations. (Image credit: Alamy)

Visors for police horses

While Horse & Hound has previously reported on a police horse who wore sunglasses for medical reasons, some situations require mounted police horses to wear specialist visors that protect the eyes and nose from objects thrown in a public order or riot situation. These are category zero glasses designed purely for trauma protection rather than light reduction.

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‘He had the X factor’: Boston Black Tie’s breeder tells the story of how the champion came to be

Bethan Simons — Sat, 13 Jun 2026 07:41:42 +0000

Boston Black Tie (DJ) is the result of a careful breeding plan.

“It took me a long time to breed a hack,” says Stephen Howard. “I point-to-pointed his great-grandmother, Lovely Grange, and didn’t want to sell her. She had four foals, one of which – Boston Bellissima – I kept. In turn, she had DJ’s mother, Boston Boudicca.”

Stephen was instantly impressed by the newborn DJ.

“He had something – an X-factor or swag – that made you think he was special, though not necessarily a hack right away. They all develop differently.”

A young Boston Black Tie with dam Boston Boudicca. (Image credit: Stephen Howard)

Stephen’s friend Nicki Faulconbridge first saw DJ as a two-year-old and a year later, Stephen granted her her wish to purchase him.

“He’s never been to Nicki’s, though,” says Stephen, who remains a key DJ team member and fan. “He went straight to his producer Helen Baker and he’s lived there ever since; he’s a bit precious and they know exactly how to handle that.

“He’s very intelligent and quick to learn – as many of Kilvington Scoundrel’s progeny are. That can be to a hack’s detriment as they think they know best. But he’s right up there as a hack for me and has done far more than we could ever expect really. He keeps coming back out and we’re ultra-grateful for that.”

He adds with a wry smile, “I’ll not be letting go of his sister Boston Bed Of Roses.”

Boston Black Tie breeding information

Stable name: DJ

Height: 153cm

Year of birth: 2017

Breeding: by Kilvington Scoundrel out of Boston Boudicca

Breeder: Stephen Howard

Best results: Hickstead Derby Meeting hack champion on both his visits, and two-time Royal International hack champion.

Boston Black Tie’s pedigree chart (Image credit: creditUnknown)

Meet the parents

“DJ was his mother Boston Boudicca’s first foal,” says Stephen.

His sire, Kilvington Scoundrel is a decorated stock-getter of HOYS champions.

“Scoundrel is so prolific at breeding that quality type. At the time, if you were thinking of breeding a hack, you’d have to try him. He’d gone by that point, but there was semen available so it was worth a try.”

Kilvington Scoundrel’s semen is no longer available but, luckily, Stephen has a full yearling sister – Boston Bed Of Roses – waiting in the wings.

Other fact’s about Boston Black Tie’s breeding

1. The Boston prefix has been associated with Welsh ponies since 1968. Stephen inherited the stud, which is based five miles outside the village of Boston Spa, West Yorkshire, in 1996.

2. Boston Black Tie’s pedigree includes Dolphin Supreme and Yealand Nemesis, who have been responsible for numerous show pony and hack champions.

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Expert advice for feeding horses with or prone to laminitis – what owners need to know

Bethany Stone — Wed, 10 Jun 2026 13:00:15 +0000

Feeding horses with or prone to laminitis requires you to reconsider their whole diet, whether they’re retired or at the peak of their competitive career.

Laminitis is a common, painful condition which manifests itself in one or more of the horse’s hooves. It is a multifactorial condition, which means it can be caused by a number of factors, but it frequently arises as the result of a metabolic upset.

While laminitis is often seen in native ponies during periods of peek grass growth, overweight horses of any type can be at risk – and suffer from the condition – at any time of year. Horses with underlying issues, such as Cushing’s disease or Equine Metabolic Syndrome, are also at greater risk.

“The modern equine lifestyle of cosy stables, rugs and over-full haynets is often where the problem of laminitis stems from,” says Kate Hore, head nutritionist at NAF.

“The largest part of any diet should be forage and grazing. When that is rich spring grass, it can be a real risk for the laminitis-prone.

“We should be feeding as naturally as possible, which means feeding a high-fibre, high-forage diet with little to no starchy cereals, such as may be found in concentrates.”

So, how to approach feeding horses with laminitis, or those at risk? Read on for advice from nutrition experts. It’s important to note, however, that laminitis is a veterinary emergency – if you suspect your horse has it, please call your vet before doing anything else.

Feeding horses with laminitis – in the bucket

If a horse has been diagnosed with laminitis, then take individual advice from your vet, but generally speaking, they should be fed little and often in line with good equine feeding practice.

Fibre should form the bulk of their diet alongside essential vitamins and minerals, while sugar and starch levels should be kept low. Because hay, haylage and grass are naturally deficient in some nutrients, forage alone is not sufficient to deliver a fully balanced diet, so a top-up of essential vitamins, minerals and trace elements is required.

Pelleted forage balancers are an ideal bucket feed for laminitis-prone horses. Balancers work to ensure horses receive their recommended daily intakes (RDA) across the full spectrum of their diet. Some of these feeds are formulated specifically for horses prone to laminitis.

While they provide key vitamins, minerals and quality protein to suit the horse’s lifestyle and workload, they also keep calorie, starch and sugar intakes low. However, they must be fed according to the manufacturer’s recommendations to be effective.

“Ensure you maintain a good vitamin, mineral and quality protein intake. This supports muscle, hoof health, coat condition and internal nutrient reserves and healthy fibre levels to support gut function,” says Emma Short, equine nutritionist at Baileys Horse Feeds.

“For horses that need additional calories for weight gain, high-calorie fibre sources can be added along with the balancer. These might include unmolassed alfalfa chaffs with added oil, or soaked beet products. High oil supplements are also available,” she adds.

If a balancer is not the right option for your horse, you can also feed a supplement specifically for horses on restricted grazing, which will ensure they get the nutrients they need.

Feeding forage to a laminitic

Forage should make up the bulk of any horse’s diet, because it’s essential for healthy gut function. What’s more, it’s a horse’s chief source of energy (calories).

With this in mind, it’s important to consider how much hay to feed a horse. Most nutritionists say horses should ideally eat forage on an ad-lib basis.

However, this method delivers too many calories to some horses. Therefore, most nutritionists agree horses should eat between 2–2.5% of their bodyweight in dry matter forage (i.e. weight of hay less its moisture content) to maintain condition, or 1.5–1.8% for weight loss.

Another approach to feeding hay is to ensure your horse never has to fast for more than four hours. Consequently, you may need to look at ways to increase his chew time by making his ration last longer. You can do this using forage blocks, small-holed haynets and slow feeders.

Soaking hay will help to reduce the sugar content and calorie intake, while clean mature (stalky) hay is preferable to fresh green hay.

Feeding good quality oat or barley straw as part of a horse’s forage consumption is also an option. Because it’s low in calories yet high in fibre, it helps extend chew time without oversupplying energy.

Always ensure the straw is a nice yellow colour and free from mould. As with hay, there should be no airborne spore clouds emerging when you pull it apart.

Ponies prone to laminitis often require restricted access to grass – perhaps none at all. Photo: Alamy (Image credit: creditUnknown)

Is hay or haylage better for laminitics?

The right type of forage for feeding horses with laminitis is low in WSCs (water-soluble carbohydrates, which include sugar and fructans), starch and calories.

Forages vary widely, and these factors could be true of either hay or haylage. It’s also true that some hay types deliver more calories than haylage.

Therefore, it’s best to consider what to put in a laminitic horse’s haynet in terms of its content. You can ask the manufacturer for advice, or send samples of your forage off for analysis. Bear in mind, you would need to do this regularly and comprehensively, which is an additional cost.

If you feed hay, a late-cut crop is the most suitable. Late-cut hay is typically a stalkier, more mature plant that is less nutritious than early-cut hay, which is soft and leafy.

However, you can further reduce your hay’s WSC and calorie content by soaking it. The degree of nutrient reduction required determines how long to soak hay.

Soaking hay also reduces its fibre and dry matter content. This means you can safely feed a greater quantity to a laminitic horse, so they can chew for longer.

Grazing horses prone to laminitis

Feeding horses with laminitis can mean avoiding grass entirely, depending on their health or weight status. Always adhere to veterinary advice when considering turnout for a laminitis-prone horse. Vets recommend active laminitis cases be kept indoors in a deep, soft bed to minimise the risk, or degree, of pedal bone rotation.

Generally speaking, the grass is at its most dangerous for laminitis-prone (i.e. producing the most sugar) when it is…

experiencing flush, fresh growth
under stress from over-grazing
covered with frost on a bright morning where temperatures are below 4ºC (as sugar is produced but cannot be used for growth)

“For an overweight pony in light work, ideally we want to limit access to fresh grazing,” explains Kate. “If he needs additional fibre, ensure it is a low WSC hay or haylage, and consider soaking to reduce sugars.”

Many laminitics are notoriously good-doers, and love their food. Research shows that ponies on restricted turnout can adapt both bite rate and the amount taken in each bite, so that they can essentially eat as much in three hours as they would naturally do in 12 hours.

“Think of ways that you can maximise the time turned out, but still control access to grazing. It’s best to avoid a small cornered off area as that encourages them to stand and eat; natural movement is what we want. Track systems can be really useful, if practical, alternatively look at using a grazing muzzle or strip grazing to limit intake whilst encouraging mobility,” continues Kate.

But what about the horse in a higher level of work? The basic feeding principle with a laminitis-prone animal is really the same as with any horse, and that is “feed to work done”.

“For a fit but insulin-resistant eventer, we might be looking at alfalfa chaffs and controlled grazing, with additional oil, to provide all the energy they need,” explains Kate. “Supplement these with concentrated vitamins and trace elements to balance the diet.”

Prevention is better than a cure

If your horse is prone to laminitis, it’s important to regularly body condition score them to monitor their weight.

Ask for advice from your vet or nutritionist if you’re unsure how to do it. Plus, keep a record so you can track the results. Taking photos can also be useful.

“One of the key messages is working towards stopping laminitis happening rather than dealing with it,” Lizzie Drury, senior nutritionist at Saracen Horse Feeds.

“Be on high alert with your horse, particularly if he’s prone to laminitis, and don’t allow him to become overweight. Be constantly aware of what and how much you’re feeding him and his exercise level. Ask whether he needs to be rugged. Be aware 365 days a year,” she concludes.

Feeding competition horses prone to laminitis

The effect of the diet on laminitic horses is complex, and requires expert tailored advice from a nutritionist. Spillers nutritional content manager Vanessa Allen emphasises “prioritising health over performance”.

“We would recommend feeds based on body condition first and ridden energy levels second,” she explains. “For good-doers, balancers would be the first choice. Ensure all essential nutrients are provided, then choose a balancer specifically aimed at harder-working horses. Protein quality is just as important as quantity – for example, deficiency in lysine can limit protein synthesis, affecting muscle health and overall performance.”

Even if you feel your competition horse needs more oomph, if he’s prone to laminitis, most traditional competition course mixes are off the menu.

“This can make balancing energy levels difficult,” says Vanessa. “Some low-starch, high-energy performance feeds could be sensible options, ideally providing energy from oil and fibre rather than cereal.”

Meal sizes are another factor when considering starch and sugar intake, don’t just look at percentages.

“A balancer with a combined starch and sugar content of 15% provides just 75g of starch and sugar when fed at 500g per day; a feed with just 5% provides 150g when fed at 3kg per day,” Vanessa points out.

“As a guide, restrict non-structural carbohydrate (NSC) or ‘starch or sugar’ to less than 0.5g per kilogram of body weight per meal – less than 250g for a 500kg horse – for those who are not severely insulin-dysregulated. For the latter, seek advice from a nutritionist or vet; testing the horse’s insulin response to their normal feed and/or forage may be helpful.”

For laminitics in particular, Vanessa warns: “It’s important to tackle the whole diet, with potentially stricter forage and grass management – don’t just concentrate on the bucket feed. Consider all strategies to reduce sugar intake: soaking hay and reducing access to grazing.”

Vanessa would also recommend having your forage analysed for water soluble carbohydrate (via the “wet chemistry” method) to discover if it is suitable for your horse to eat.

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Which top competition horse did this cute little foal grow up to be?

Martha Terry — Sat, 06 Jun 2026 15:12:18 +0000

The breeding of Lordships Graffalo has resulted in one of the greatest eventers to have graced the planet, but he was something of a “thug” in his foalhood. Still known for his habits of tugging his grooms to tastier grazing, chewing ropes and upending wheelbarrows, “he used to walk over everyone” as a curious, independent baby. So let’s learn more about his early life.

Originally called Hermes, his stable name was changed to Walter at four after a horse transporter his owners knew. He was raised in Essex, at Writtle College, as his dam – Cornish Queen – had been loaned to Lordships Stud by her owner Pennie Wallace, as part of a breeding programme.

“His mum was so fiery, they had to lead her in a bridle at Writtle or she’d dance on her hindlegs,” says Pennie. “None of her foals were straightforward, but it did Walter good to live out in a herd.”

Caroline Farr, Lordships Stud manager, remembers Walter as “a very friendly foal. He loved interacting with humans and other horses and was always inquisitive and up to something”.

Walter was a curious and independent foal. (Image credit: Caroline Farr/Lordships Stud)

At two, he returned to Pennie, who sent him to Ros Canter as she liked how Ros was producing his older half-sister Pencos Crown Jewel. It was shrewd foresight – Ros had yet to compete at five-star and there was no assurance of the megastar she would become.

“All the ducks aligned for Walter,” says Pennie. “I knew Cornish Queen had good bloodlines, but I never dreamt she’d produce what she has. Walter is out-and-out talented, but it also needed Ros to bring that out. You need the right rider with the experience and talent.”

Lordships Graffalo breeding information

Stable name: Walter

Height: 17hh

Year of birth: 2012

Breeding: by Grafenstolz out of Cornish Queen (by Rock King)

Breeder: Pennie Wallace and Lordships Stud

Owners: Michele and Archie Saul

Best results: three-time Badminton and two-time Burghley winner; European individual and team champion; Olympic team gold medallist

Lordships Graffalo’s pedigree chart (Image credit: creditUnknown)

Meet the parents

While Grafenstolz needs no introduction as a top-ranked eventing sire, Walter’s damline is equally illustrious. Cornish Queen was bred by Olympic gold medallist Bridget Parker – a niece of her Munich 1972 ride Cornish Gold – and sold to Pennie Wallace. Although Cornish Queen didn’t compete beyond pre-novice (BE100), her mother Cornish Faer (by Ben Faerie) contested Badminton and Burghley.

“They all had an amazing jump and a type,” says Bridget. “I hope people realise how much comes from the mare.”

Other facts about Lordships Graffalo’s breeding

1. Graffalo has a full sister, Pencos Sovereign, born 2023.

2. His part-Arab great-great-granddam (April The First, dam of Tregea) won a 7ft 2in puissance.

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Top stallions at stud in the UK that breeders need on their radar right now

Oscar Williams — Thu, 04 Jun 2026 09:40:46 +0000

British breeders haven’t always had it easy. For decades, the assumption has been that the most exciting stallions stand in Germany or the Netherlands – and that British mares need to look overseas to find genuinely top-quality bloodlines. But the picture has shifted considerably in recent years with a wide range of UK stallions at stud now available.

This new generation of stallions is standing on British soil – from young horses in their first or second year of breeding to competition-proven sires whose offspring are competing at the highest level. Post-Brexit logistics have made importing semen more complex and more expensive. The result is a growing appetite for high-quality stallions standing closer to home – and the British stud industry is rising to meet the demand.

Whether you’re breeding a future grand prix dressage horse, a top-class eventer, a careful showjumper, or a quality native breed, there are British stallions worth considering at every level and price point. Below, we’ve gathered some of the most interesting UK stallions standing at stud – by discipline, with notes on what each is producing, what kind of mare they suit, and how to book.

Jump to:

UK dressage stallions at stud
UK showjumping stallions at stud
UK eventing stallions at stud
UK showing, native and pony stallions at stud

UK stallions at stud: dressage

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

Sezuan’s Donnerhall (Sezuan x Sir Donnerhall I)

This dark chestnut Oldenburg stallion has stood in the UK since 2024, bringing one of the most exciting young dressage sire lines to British breeders. By the three-time World Young Horse Champion Sezuan – unbeaten at FEI young horse level, with scores of over 9.7 in the five- and six-year-old finals – Sezuan’s Donnerhall has the pedigree, the conformation and the performance record to back up the hype.

He won his 14-day performance test in Neustadt-Dosse on 9.34, then dominated his 50-day test at Schlieckau on 9.19, including a perfect 10 for canter and 9.5 for rideability, willingness to perform, and overall impression. He’s described as having outstanding paces and first-class rideability – qualities he passes on to his offspring.

His damsire, Sir Donnerhall I (by Sandro Hit), is one of Germany’s most influential dressage sires, and his dam, Siola, is a three-quarter sister to the licensed small tour stallion San Schufro. A strong all-round option for breeders looking to produce a top-class dressage horse with both expression and trainability.

Year of birth: 2015

Height: 171cm

Studbook: Oldenburg

WFFS status: negative

Stud fee: £1000 + VAT

For more information: visit elitestallions.co.uk

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

L’Espoir (Lord Loxley I x Warkant)

A standout from the 2009 Danish Warmblood stallion licensing, L’Espoir now offers UK breeders – particularly those in Scotland and the north of England – access to a top-quality dressage sire.

He achieved the highest-ever score at the Danish 35-day test in 2009, recording 944 with three perfect 10s and no score below nine – a result only two stallions have since exceeded. The Danish breeding director Karina Christiansen described him as “the prototype of the future dressage horse,” and the judges at Redefin called him a “miracle mover.”

He has competed internationally to inter I. His offspring have been fetching top prices at European auctions, including Lord Schufro (€220,000 at the 2012 AOS Auction) and Loui (€55,000 at the 2016 Westfalen Winter Auction). His progress is reflected in the latest Baileys Horse Feeds British Breeding Futurity all-time sire rankings, where he has climbed from 102nd to 52nd – a clear signal that his offspring are making their mark.

Year of birth: 2006

Height: 169cm

Studbook: Danish Warmblood (approved across multiple European studbooks)

WFFS status: negative

Stud fee: Available on enquiry (fresh and chilled semen, concessions available)

At stud with: Romanno Stud, Lanarkshire, Scotland

For more information: visit romannostud.co.uk or phone 01899 810223

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

Durable (Spielberg TN x Obelisk)

A British-based grand prix dressage stallion with international competition status, exceptional offspring quality at home and a temperament breeders and riders alike rave about, Durable is one of the most accomplished options for UK dressage breeders.

Bred in the Netherlands by M.M.J. Bekkers, Durable has been competed throughout his career by Norfolk-based Nikki Barker (née Crisp), who took on the ride when he was six and has produced him to international grand prix level.

He’s by Spielberg TN – by Sandro Hit out of an Oldenburg damline – and his damsire Obelisk traces to one of the most respected Dutch breeding families. International dressage judge Isobel Wessels, who first judged him as a four-year-old when he won the young dressage horse final at Hartpury, describes him as having “all the ingredients to be a top horse” – combining ground-covering extensions with a “bouncy, closed canter” and the ability to “close and sit and take the weight behind” for piaffe and passage.

His progress as a sire is reflected in the latest Baileys Horse Feeds British Breeding Futurity all-time sire rankings, where – competing against international sires from across Europe – he has climbed from 100th to 35th position. That’s one of the biggest individual gains in the rankings.

His temperament – “incredibly soft, like riding liquid” in Nikki’s words – combined with his presence and power, makes him a strong choice for breeders looking to produce a quality grand prix dressage prospect.

Year of birth: 2008

Height: 178cm

Studbook: KWPN (AES licensed)

WFFS status: negative

Stud fee: £1350 + VAT

At stud with: Nikki Barker, Norfolk

For more information: phone +44 (0) 7775 811918

UK stallions at stud: showjumping

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

Billy Congo (Vechta x Animo)

One of British showjumping’s most successful homebred stallions of the modern era, Billy Congo combines a top-level competition record with a proven track record at stud – making him one of the most distinctive options available to UK breeders.

Under William Funnell, Billy Congo had a remarkable career on the international circuit. He was the most successful stallion on the 2013 Global Champions Tour, with second-place finishes at Monte Carlo and Cannes, and fourth at London. The same year, the pair took team gold at the European Championships in Herning. Other career highlights include wins in the CSI5* grand prix in Donetsk, the CSI3* grand prix in Lummen, and the 1.55m at Rome – plus a double-clear in the CSIO5* Hickstead Nations Cup.

He retired from top-level sport in 2019 after finishing second in the Queen Elizabeth II Cup at Hickstead the previous year. At stud, Billy Congo has proved as productive as he was in the arena. His offspring include Billy Buckingham (a 2018 WEG team horse and Hickstead Derby winner), Billy Fanta (FEI Young Riders gold with Samantha Cohen in 2019), and CCI4* eventers Billy Liffey, Billy Cuckoo and Billy Bandit. Known for his scope, technique and competitive spirit, he passes on the qualities that made him a star to the next generation.

Year of birth: 2001

Height: 168cm

Studbook: AES (approved)

WFFS status: negative

Stud fee: £600 + VAT

At stud with: The Billy Stud, Surrey (frozen semen via Rozel Breeding and Stallion AI Services)

For more information: visit thebillystud.co.uk

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

Copain Du Perchet (Conteur x Calypso II)

A genuine five-star competition stallion whose offspring are already showing they’ve inherited his ability, Copain Du Perchet CH is one of the most exciting established showjumping options for UK breeders.

Under Ireland’s Cian O’Connor, Copain Du Perchet won five-star classes in Dublin, Aachen, Falsterbo, Rotterdam, Villach and Treffen, with earlier success under Switzerland’s Edwin Smits. He went on to become a cornerstone of Emily Moffitt’s grand prix string at Poden Farms, jumping at the highest level on the international circuit and contesting Nations Cups at Dublin, Calgary, Gijón, and Al Ain. Lorenzo De Luca brought him out once more at the CSI4* in St Tropez before his retirement was announced in February 2023.

“It’s every girl’s dream to have such a beautiful horse like Copain,” Emily said at the time. “I remember seeing him for the first time and being in awe, and that feeling has never faded.”

He was lightly bred during his sport career, but his offspring are already making their mark – names to watch include Camillo du Perchet, Hermes du Perchet CH, Cullinan du Perchet, and Cassiopee Du Perchet. He comes from impeccable jumping lines, with his sire Conteur tracing to Contender, and his damsire Calypso II a renowned producer of international sport horses.

Year of birth: 2005

Height: 173cm

Studbook: CH (Swiss warmblood)

WFFS status: negative

Stud fee: from £700 + VAT

For more information: visit stallionai.co.uk

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

Golden Hawk (Vigo D’Arsouilles x Chin Chin)

One of British showjumping’s most successful international stallions in active sport, Golden Hawk has been a flag-bearer for Ireland’s Shane Breen and Hickstead-based Breen Equestrian on the world stage for over a decade.

A powerful, attractive stallion with elite AES grading, Golden Hawk has earned over £350,000 in prize money and has proved his quality across grand prix, Nations Cup, derby, puissance, six-bar and speed classes. Headline results include a win at the CSI5* London Olympia in 2018, the CSI5* Oslo grand prix the same year, the CSI4* Liverpool grand prix, and second in the 2022 Al Shira’aa Hickstead Derby. He was also part of the third-placed team in the 2017 CSIO5* La Baule Coupe des Nations and finished second in the 2016 Dublin grand prix.

His sire Vigo d’Arsouilles took World Equestrian Games gold under Philippe Le Jeune in 2010, and his dam Ta Belle van Sombeke is a top breeding mare who jumped to 1.60m under Jos Lansink. She has produced multiple grand prix horses, including Glock’s London, Wabelle de Muze and Casimir de la Pomme.

Golden Hawk has excellent fertility rates and has sired more than 20 horses competing at 1.45m or above. His standout offspring include Scarteen and BE Golden (both competing internationally to 1.60m under Shane Breen), BE Golden Lynx (who jumped the Aachen Nations Cup in 2025), and Evita Van’t Zoggehof (ridden by Lorenzo De Luca).

Year of birth: 2005

Height: 167cm

Studbook: Belgian Warmblood

WFFS status: negative

Stud fee: £1,000 + VAT

For more information: visit breenequestrian.com

UK stallions at stud: eventing

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

Future Hepsilon (Upsilon x Heraldik xx)

The only licensed son of the record-breaking eventing stallion Upsilon standing in the UK, Future Hepsilon brings one of the most exciting young eventing pedigrees available to British breeders – and has already proven himself a versatile and competitive young horse in his own right.

By Nations Cup gold medallist Upsilon and out of a dam line that has also produced a Nations Cup gold medallist, Future Hepsilon is a unique combination of genetics from two of the most influential bloodlines in modern eventing. His sire Upsilon – by Canturo – is now an established producer of young horses and sired the back-to-back Young Event Horse World Champion Golden de Beliard. His damsire Heraldik xx, a thoroughbred, topped the WBFSH sire rankings for eventing for five consecutive years.

His own competition record is exceptional for his age. In 2022, he was one of only two horses in the UK to finish in the top 12 of all three British national five-year-old championships – the Burghley Young Event Horse, NexGen, and the BE CCI1*-S Young Horse Championship. He has also competed at newcomers in showjumping, with plans to move up to Foxhunter in 2026.

His dam line is impressive. The first four dams produced over 64 horses jumping at 1.40m or above – including Chanyon (sixth individually at the Tokyo Olympics), Ben Maher’s 1.50m horse Wintu, the Danish Nations Cup silver medallist HS Chaccophanie, Paul Schockemöhle’s stallion Qualdandro, and Embassy II (winner of over €1 million in prize money). From the same four-generation dam line comes Yasmin Ingham’s Nations Cup eventer Night Line, who placed 5th at Burnham Market CCI4* and 8th at Bicton 4* in 2021.

Year of birth: 2017

Height: 170cm

Studbook: AES

WFFS status: negative

Stud fee: £795 + VAT

At stud with: Future Sport Horses, East Yorkshire (semen via Stallion AI Services)

For more information: visit futuresporthorses.co.uk or phone Julia Hodkin on 07951 519 288 or 07775 633 004

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

Timolin (Totilas x Sion)

Bred at Catherston Stud, Timolin holds the highest scoring average of any horse or pony ever presented at the British Breeding Futurity three times. He was the overall highest-scoring dressage yearling in 2012 (9.38), reserve overall champion two-year-old in 2013 (9.34), and the highest-scoring three-year-old in 2014 (9.43) – a score that remains a record for a three-year-old dressage horse. He was also the Sport Horse Breeding of Great Britain stallion grading champion.

Under saddle, Timolin has competed successfully across multiple disciplines. As an event horse with Aimee Stunt, Gubby Leech, and Izzy Taylor (the latter standing in for the novice national championships at Gatcombe, where he finished sixth), he has competed to within one point of advanced. As a dressage horse, he progressed through the levels with Lizzie Murray to win at grand prix in 2023, with Charlotte Dicker now continuing his international career.

His standing as a sire is genuinely remarkable. In the latest Baileys Horse Feeds British Breeding Futurity all-time sire rankings, Timolin leads the eventing rankings and holds third position among the dressage sires – the only stallion to feature in the top of both lists.

He has over 26 Elite scores at the BEF Futurity, and standout offspring include Tremarl Timber (HOYS Price In-Hand Champion 2025), Tremarl Timpani (HOYS Riding Horse Champion 2025), Catherston Timeless (winning at grand prix), and Catherston Tuxedo (SHB-GB Stallion Grading Champion on a record 9.35, and the holder of the Futurity’s highest-ever score on 9.775).

Year of birth: 2011

Height: 170cm

Studbook: British Warmblood (BWBS, SHB-GB Champion, AESB, BHHS, Hannoverian Verband graded)

WFFS status: negative

Stud fee: £1,200 incl. VAT (chilled, frozen or natural/fresh; £150 collection fee)

At stud with: Catherston Stud, Over Wallop, Hampshire

For more information: visit catherstonstud.com or phone Jennie Loriston-Clarke MBE FBHS, Anne Dicker or Billy Moran on 01264 782 716

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

Future Guilty Pleasure (Levisonn x Cantoblanco)

One of the most exciting young eventing sires available to British breeders, Future Guilty Pleasure has already established himself as a triple national champion sire of futurity eventers – and is producing the kind of stock that British eventing breeders have been crying out for.

Future Guilty Pleasure was the national champion of the AES Stallion Licensing (from over 90 stallions inspected). As a competition horse himself, he progressed rapidly through the eventing levels – in his first full season in 2023, he went from BE100 to Intermediate and CCI2* in just three months, winning a BE100 on his dressage score of 18, finishing second at novice, third at intermediate, and 11th in his first CCI2*.

CCI5* eventer Alex Bragg has called him “naturally gifted for all disciplines.” His pedigree is built for the job. He’s by Levisonn — double champion of the Holsteiner Performance Test for both showjumping and dressage, and sire of 1.60m showjumpers and CCI5* eventers.

His damsire, Cantoblanco, was a Holstein champion stallion and a Bundeschampionat finalist. The dam line also traces back to Future Gold Digger, the highest-graded BEF event foal between 2005 and 2011 and a maternal sister to Olympic individual silver medallist and three-time Rolex Kentucky CCI5* winner Winsome Adante.

His progeny record is already exceptional for a stallion of his age. He has been a triple national champion sire of futurity eventers (with each of his first three crops), British Futurity Best Newcomer Sire 2019, and is now a sire of licensed stallions, Burghley Young Event Horse finalists, multiple British Breeding national champions, top-price auction lots, and elite Futurity eventers. His offspring have been competing successfully internationally, including in Australia and at Westfalen NA inspection sites.

Year of birth: 2016

Height: 168cm

Studbook: AES (Life Approved), SHB(GB) (Life Graded)

WFFS status: negative

Stud fee: £895 + VAT (fresh/chilled, with NFNF or LFG terms; frozen on a £395 booking + £500 28-day scan structure)

At stud with: Future Sport Horses, East Yorkshire (semen via Stallion AI Services)

For more information: visit futuresporthorses.co.uk or call 07951 519 288

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

Amiro Z (Amigo Toss xx x Ramiro Z)

With almost 70% thoroughbred blood, an international showjumping record to 1.45m, and an eventing-focused offspring profile already producing horses at four-star level, Amiro Z is one of the most exciting eventing-orientated stallions available to UK breeders.

Amiro Z jumped internationally to 1.45m, including qualifying for the Lanaken World Championships for six-year-olds in 2012. His sire Amigo Toss xx was an Argentinian thoroughbred brought into Zangersheide to add blood to Holsteiner lines, and his damsire is the legendary Ramiro Z – known as the “King of Sires,” with grand prix wins and Nations Cup appearances, jumping over 2.20m in puissance.

His damline is exceptional. His dam, Renomee Z, jumped at the 1996 Atlanta Olympic Games and the 1998 World Cup, and her full sister is Ratina Z – one of the most successful jumping horses of all time, with nearly €1 million in lifetime earnings, two Olympic team golds plus individual silver, double gold at the 1997 European Championships, and victory in the Aachen grand prix under Ludger Beerbaum.

Other relatives include international grand prix horses Comme Il Faut, Freedom Z and Crown Z. Amiro Z’s offspring are now making a significant impact at the highest eventing levels. His daughter, Caunton First Class, placed 16th at Blenheim with Sarah Bullimore. His son Corimiro placed first in two CCI2*, was the highest-placed British-bred at the eight- and nine-year-old CCI4*-S at Blenheim 2024, and went on to contest his first CCI4*-L at Boekelo – one of only five combinations to go clear inside the time.

His offspring are bold characters with good temperaments, inheriting their sire’s jump, power and rideability.

Year of birth: 2004

Height: 170cm

Studbook: Zangersheide (Z)

WFFS status: negative

Stud fee: £1,000 + VAT (booking fee £250 + VAT, pregnancy fee £750 + VAT payable 1 October)

At stud with: Elite Stallions

For more information: elitestallions.co.uk

UK stallions at stud: showing, natives and ponies

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

Turberry Top Cat (Cusop Dimension out of Caterina (by Kilvington Scoundrel))

A quality 138cm part-bred Arab (PBA) stallion with a strong show ring CV, Turberry Top Cat is an excellent option for breeders looking to produce children’s show ponies – including those wanting horses eligible for Arab Horse Society registration.

Turberry Top Cat was the National Pony Society (NPS) Young Stallion Award winner in 2014, the NPS Stallion Awards winner in 2017, and finished fifth overall in the NPS Stallion Awards the same year.

Described by his stud as oozing quality, with a “fabulous turn of front, exquisite head, lovely conformation and an outstanding mover,” he produces stock with the elegance and quality demanded in the show ring. His dam, Caterina, was second at the Royal International Horse Show as a ridden show pony – a damline pedigree credit worth noting for showing breeders.

He is registered PBA 30% Arab blood, meaning all his offspring are eligible for registration with the Arab Horse Society. He is a full brother to Turberry Tom Kitten, who stood at Stanley Grange Stud for two seasons before being exported to Australia.

Year of birth: 2009

Height: 138cm

Studbook: Part-bred Arab (PBA 30%)

Stud fee: £550 from frozen, £650 for chilled

At stud with: Millbry Hill Stud, North Yorkshire

For more information: email office@millbryhillstud.co.uk

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

Skellorn Bronze Soldier (Skellorn Prince Consort out of Burside Penny Black (by Rotherwood Beechnut))

A standout Welsh section B stallion of his generation, Skellorn Bronze Soldier represents one of the most distinguished British Welsh pony breeding programmes – and gives breeders access to some of the section’s most respected old bloodlines.

A homebred for Kerry Wainwright at the Cheshire-based Skellorn Stud – founded by Kerry’s grandfather Les Wainwright in the 1960s – Soldier has been a flag-bearer for the operation for over a decade. Under regular handler Stuart Mason, he was crowned Welsh section champion at the Royal Welsh in 2019 – the ultimate accolade for any Welsh breeder. He has now qualified for the Price Family Supreme In-Hand final at Horse of the Year Show (HOYS) five times, equalling the qualification record of Castle Emperor and bettered only by Rosslyn Sweet Repose.

He has also proved his breeding influence, jointly topping the Royal Welsh sire ratings in 2022. His son Skellorn Royal Anniversary won at the Royal International Horse Show 2025 under Tori Oakes – one of a relatively small group of offspring on the ground, given his sparing use at stud.

Soldier’s pedigree traces to many of the most influential names in Welsh section B breeding – Solway Master Bronze, Gredington Tiwlip, Downland Chevalier and Kirby Cane Pilgrim – making him a strong outcross option for British Welsh pony breeders.

Year of birth: 2007

Height: 134cm

Studbook: Welsh Pony and Cob Society (Section B)

Stud fee: From £300

At stud with: Skellorn Stud (Kerry Wainwright), Adlington, Cheshire

For more information: email skellornstud@hotmail.com or phone 01625 572356

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

Tiger Attack (Dolphin Supreme x The Outlaw)

A versatile sport horse stallion with a stellar competition record across in-hand, eventing, dressage and working hunter, Tiger Attack is one of the most exciting options at Hampshire’s renowned Catherston Stud – and a strong choice for breeders looking to produce a quality sport horse with significant blood.

A homebred for Billy Moran, Tiger Attack made his name first in the in-hand ring, winning the Ottergale Supreme three years running, the £1,000 North of England Supreme two years running, and the Martin Wood £1,000 Supreme final. He qualified for the Cuddy in-hand finals as a two-, three- and four-year-old.

Under saddle from his five-year-old season, he took to eventing “like a duck to water” – winning the Southern combined training championship, the Hartpury five-year-old young event horse qualifier, and the Dauntsey Park regional final, before completing the Badminton Grassroots final with a clear cross-country round and a top-20 finish. He has also competed successfully in British Dressage (qualifying for the regionals) and in showjumping, while continuing to win in the show ring (Royal Windsor flat sport horse class, 2018).

Standout progeny include three-time Royal Windsor winner Stage Diva; HOYS, RIHS and Royal Windsor champion Ladies Man; Price Family Supreme In-Hand winner and reserve champion Tiger Cub; and the promising Tiger Feet.

He passes on his quality of head, turn of front, elegant movement and excellent temperament. Standing at over 60% thoroughbred blood with 9.5 inches of bone, he is a strong option for breeders looking to add blood while retaining substance.

Year of birth: 2012

Height: 165cm

Studbook: Sport Horse Breeding GB (graded); registered NPS and Sport Horse Ireland (entry level)

Stud fee: £800 frozen

At stud with: Catherston Stud, Over Wallop, Hampshire

For more information: visit catherstonstud.com or phone Jennie Loriston-Clarke MBE FBHS, Anne Dicker or Billy Moran on 01264 782 716

Frequently asked questions about UK stallions at stud

How do I book a covering with a UK stallion?

Most UK studs require a nomination form and a booking fee before semen can be dispatched or a mare can visit. Each stud operates on its own terms – some on a no foal, no fee (NFNF) basis, others on a live foal guarantee (LFG), and others on a non-refundable booking fee plus a pregnancy fee paid later in the year. Contact the stud or owner directly to discuss their specific arrangements, lead times, and any veterinary requirements for your mare.

What’s the difference between fresh, chilled and frozen semen?

Fresh semen is collected and used immediately – typically when the mare visits the stud or the stallion is on the same yard. Chilled semen is collected and transported the same day, with insemination usually within 24 to 48 hours. Frozen semen is preserved in liquid nitrogen and can be stored indefinitely, meaning it can be shipped internationally and used at any time. Fresh and chilled semen generally have higher conception rates, but frozen semen offers more flexibility – particularly for international breeding.

How do I choose the right stallion for my mare?

Consider your mare’s bloodlines, conformation, temperament, and competitive record alongside what you’re hoping to produce. A heavier mare may benefit from a stallion that brings blood and refinement; a sharper mare from a calmer, more rideable type. Look at the stallion’s offspring competing at the level you’re aiming for, and consider their temperament and trainability. Many stallion owners are happy to discuss whether their stallion is a good match for your particular mare – and the studs and owners featured in this guide are no exception.

What is WFFS, and why does it matter when choosing a stallion?

WFFS (Warmblood Fragile Foal Syndrome) is a recessive genetic disorder identified in the warmblood horse population. A foal that inherits the gene from both parents – meaning both the stallion and the mare are carriers – is born with severely fragile skin and joint connective tissue and typically doesn’t survive. Carriers themselves (horses with only one copy of the gene) are completely unaffected and live and compete normally. WFFS is specifically a warmblood concern: studies suggest around 7-12% of the warmblood population carries the gene, while it’s effectively unknown in native breeds. Responsible breeders test their mares for WFFS before using a stallion, and a covering should only be undertaken when at least one parent is confirmed negative. If both parents carry the gene, there’s a 25% chance the foal will be affected. All the stallions in this guide are confirmed WFFS-negative, meaning they’re safe to use on any mare – including untested mares. Where a stallion is a carrier, breeders should test their mares and only proceed if the mare is confirmed negative.

What is a sire ranking and why does it matter?

Sire rankings – such as the Baileys Horse Feeds British Breeding Futurity rankings and the WBFSH (World Breeding Federation for Sport Horses) rankings – measure a stallion’s overall breeding influence by tracking how his offspring perform in competition. A stallion who consistently produces high-scoring offspring will rise up the rankings. These rankings give breeders an objective measure of a stallion’s performance beyond his own competition record and can be a useful signal of whether his offspring are genuinely making their mark.

What’s the difference between AES, BWBS, KWPN and other studbooks?

Each studbook is a breed registry with its own standards for approval, inspection and grading. AES (Anglo European Studbook) and BWBS (British Warmblood Breeders Society) are British-based, while KWPN (Royal Dutch Sport Horse), Hanoverian, Oldenburg and Holstein are European studbooks with strong UK breeder bases. A stallion may be approved by multiple studbooks, meaning his progeny can be registered with several societies.

Can I use frozen semen from a UK stallion overseas?

Yes – frozen semen is the standard option for international breeding, and most UK studs ship internationally. Post-Brexit, additional health certification and customs paperwork are required for export to the EU, which the stud or its agent (often Stallion AI Services for many of the stallions featured in this guide) will arrange. Lead times and costs vary, so it’s worth contacting the stud well in advance of when you need the semen.

What should I ask a stud before booking a covering?

Useful questions include: What’s the stud fee structure (NFNF, LFG, or split)? What’s the chilled or frozen availability? What are the shipping costs and lead times? What health screening has the stallion had (WFFS, PSSM1, OCD)? Has the stallion’s semen been tested for fertility? Are there concessions for mares with proven competition records? What’s the typical conception rate? Don’t be afraid to ask – established studs and experienced owners want to make sure the match is right too.

For unlimited access to expert breeding advice, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

How often you really need to have your saddle checked, plus advice from a Society of Master Saddlers master saddle fitter

Georgia Guerin — Tue, 02 Jun 2026 09:15:54 +0000

Booking a saddle fitting and getting your horse’s saddle checked is something all horse owners should be doing regularly, but it can fall by the wayside until there’s an issue. It doesn’t matter whether you’ve got a second-hand GP saddle, a custom-made dressage saddle or something in between, good saddle fit is essential to your horse’s welfare.

We asked Ruth Spencer, a master saddle fitter who also serves on the board of Society of Master Saddlers (SMS) assessors, to explain how often you really need to get your saddle checked and answer some other need-to-know questions about saddle fitting.

How often should you get your saddle checked?

As a general rule, saddles should be checked at least every six to 12 months.

“This is in line with guidance from the Society of Master Saddlers,” Ruth explains, “however, it isn’t a one-size-fits-all approach. Horses in regular work, young horses, those changing shape through training, or those coming back into work after time off may need more frequent checks.

“In contrast, a mature horse in consistent, light work with a stable condition may be fine with annual checks – but it’s important not to become complacent, as subtle changes can still occur over time,” she warns.

What factors affect saddle fit?

A horse’s shape is not static, so saddle fit can change for a variety of reasons, but riders can also affect how the saddle fits and performs, Ruth explains.

These factors include:

changes in horse weight
muscle development (or loss)
fitness levels
age
workload
seasonal factors, such as availability of grazing
changes in rider weight
rider position or balance

Additionally, the saddle itself can alter over time through flocking compression, wear or tree movement.

Running your hand under the panels regularly will help pick up any early signs of change. (Image credit: Andrew Sydenham)

What can owners do between checks to ensure good fit?

There are several simple but effective checks owners can do regularly, Ruth reveals.

You should look for:

Even contact and balance – the saddle should sit level and not tip forward or back
Clearance and symmetry – check there is adequate clearance over the withers and that the saddle sits evenly on both sides
Horse’s way of going – monitor changes in performance, willingness, or behaviour under saddle

“Consistently running your hands under the panels and observing your horse before and after work can help you pick up early signs of change,” she advises.

Signs a saddle doesn’t fit as well as it should

Common indicators include:

uneven sweat patterns
dry patches
ruffled hair under the saddle
reluctance to be tacked up
resistance under saddle
hollowing
change in performance
muscle wastage
soreness
sensitivity when grooming around the saddle area

A well-qualified, independent saddle fitter should be able to assess a wide range of saddles. (Image credit: creditUnknown)

Who can check saddle fit?

Owners should look for a fitter qualified through the SMS, such as a qualified saddle fitter (QSF). This ensures they have undergone recognised training, assessment, and adhere to professional standards. You can find more information about saddle fitting qualifications at mastersaddlers.co.uk.

Ruth adds that “ongoing professional development and insurance are also important indicators of a reputable practitioner”.

Regarding specific brands, Ruth says that a well-qualified, independent saddle fitter should be able to assess a wide range of saddles.

“Some brands do have specific design features, however, so a fitter with experience or training in that brand can be beneficial in some cases,” she adds.

“Ultimately, the priority should be the fitter’s qualifications, experience, and ability to work objectively in the horse’s best interest.”

How long does a standard saddle fit check take?

A standard saddle check typically takes 45–90 mins. It should include assessing the horse statically and in motion, templating, evaluating the saddle on and off the horse, checking flocking and balance, and observing the rider where possible.

Any necessary adjustments, such as flocking, may be carried out on the day or scheduled for a later date.

How much does saddle fitting cost?

As with many costs of keeping a horse, prices can vary depending on location and the level of service, Ruth explains, but costs “typically range from around £50 to £100 for a standard check, with additional costs for adjustments such as reflocking”.

She advises that it is always worth clarifying what’s included in the fee before booking an appointment.

“I struggle to find someone willing to check a saddle they haven’t sold me” – any advice?

Ruth agrees that this is a common frustration, but says “there are good fitters who will assess any saddle objectively”.

She suggests searching the SMS register to find qualified professionals in your area.

“When contacting fitters, be upfront about your needs – many will offer a check-and-advice service even if you’re not looking to purchase. Building a relationship with a trusted fitter over time can also make future appointments easier,” says Ruth.

“It’s worth remembering that an ethical, professional fitter’s priority should always be the welfare of the horse, regardless of where the saddle was purchased.”

For unlimited access to advice on how best to care for your horse, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

Preparing your mare for breeding: the pre-breeding checks every owner should know about

Oscar Williams — Mon, 01 Jun 2026 11:30:25 +0000

Preparing a mare for breeding starts months before she sets foot on the stud. Breeding a horse is expensive, time-consuming and full of variables you can’t control, but getting the preparation right can make the difference between a smooth season and a costly one.

One commercial breeding operation estimates that the cost of breeding a horse and keeping it to three years old sits at around £15,000 – before backing and production costs are added.

Breeding soundness examinations

Whether you’re sending your mare to stud for natural covering, taking her to an AI (artificial insemination) centre, or having your vet inseminate her with chilled semen in her own stable, the pre-breeding checks she needs are essentially the same. The mare doesn’t have to travel for the disease risks to apply – semen and equipment do – and a vet performing AI at your yard will want to see the same negative swabs and certificates that a stallion stud would ask for.

Before any mare is bred, she needs what vets call a breeding soundness examination – essentially a full pre-breeding MOT. It’s a catch-all term for the checks your vet runs to confirm she’s healthy, free from infection, and physically capable of conceiving and carrying a foal.

It says nothing about her quality as a riding horse or her temperament; it’s purely a check on her reproductive health. Done properly and in good time, it protects your mare, any other horses she may come into contact with, and your investment.

Why swabbing matters when preparing a mare for breeding

Venereal bacteria – those passed between horses at covering, or carried on semen and equipment during AI – are the single biggest infectious risk to a breeding operation. They can quietly reduce fertility, are awkward to treat, and one of them, the organism that causes contagious equine metritis (CEM), is notifiable in the UK, meaning vets are legally required to report it.

A confirmed case can shut down movement on and off a stud entirely.

AI is now the standard route for most non-Thoroughbred breeders – but the pre-breeding checks don’t relax just because the mare stays at home. (Image credit: Elli Birch)

Three bacteria are of particular concern: the CEM organism itself, and two others called Klebsiella and Pseudomonas. All three are covered by the Horserace Betting Levy Board (HBLB) annually updated Codes of Practice – voluntary guidelines that apply to all breeds of horse and pony, not just thoroughbreds, and the standard reference that most reputable studs and AI vets will expect mares to have been tested against.

Mares and stallions can carry any of them with no outward signs at all, which is exactly why swabbing isn’t optional.

Swabs are taken by your vet from the clitoral area (and, separately, from the lining of the uterus when the mare is in season). They’re then tested at an HBLB-approved laboratory by bacterial culture, PCR (polymerase chain reaction), or both. PCR, which detects bacterial DNA directly rather than waiting for a culture to grow, is now widely used alongside traditional culture.

A few practical points worth knowing:

Swabs must be taken after 1 January of the breeding season in which the mare will be covered or inseminated. A negative result from the previous year doesn’t carry over.
Clitoral swabs can be taken at any time and from pregnant mares, including before foaling.
Endometrial (uterine) swabs must be taken when the mare is in season, because the cervix needs to be open.
Allow at least seven days for results. If something positive turns up, you’ll need time to treat the mare and re-swab before breeding goes ahead.
Get the testing done in good time. If your mare is travelling, that means before she leaves home; if she’s being inseminated at the yard, it means before the semen arrives. Either way, no certificate means no breeding.

Once everything comes back clear, the mare is issued with a laboratory certificate confirming her status for the current season – the BEVA mare certificate is the standard document. No reputable stallion stud will cover a mare without seeing it, and no reputable vet will inseminate one either.

EVA and the wider disease picture

Equine viral arteritis (EVA) is the other infection every breeder needs to think about. Mares should be blood-tested for EVA after 1 January and within 28 days of covering, and stallions must also be EVA-free – a point that matters just as much when you’re using imported semen as when you’re sending your mare to a UK stud.

The 2019 UK outbreaks were a reminder that the virus doesn’t only affect Thoroughbreds, and recent disruption to vaccine supply has made surveillance and biosecurity even more important. Talk to your vet about current testing recommendations for both your mare and the stallion you’re using.

Equine herpesvirus, strangles and other infectious diseases are also covered in the HBLB Codes, and any responsible stud or vet will expect mares to be up to date on flu and tetanus vaccinations as a minimum.

For some breeds, there’s an additional layer of pre-breeding screening to think about. As Rebecca Hamilton-Fletcher MRCVS of Endell Equine Hospital previously told H&H, “further tests [may be needed] if there’s a risk she’s a carrier of a breed-specific inheritable condition, such as hoof wall separation disease in Connemaras.” Your vet or breed society will know what applies.

The physical examination when preparing a mare for breeding

Swabs are only half the picture when preparing a mare for breeding. Your vet should also give the mare a thorough physical check before breeding goes ahead.

Externally, the focus is on the vulva, which provides the first line of defence against infection ascending into the uterus. If the vulval lips don’t form a good seal – common in older mares, those in poor condition, or mares with poor conformation – air, dirt and bacteria can be drawn in.

A short procedure called a Caslick’s operation can fix it: the vet stitches the upper part of the vulva closed under local anaesthetic, leaving a small opening at the bottom for normal urination. It’s a routine job that prevents a lot of larger problems.

Internally, the vet examines the ovaries, uterus and cervix by rectal palpation, almost always combined with ultrasound. The vagina and cervix are also examined visually using a speculum. Hamilton-Fletcher recommends “a full gynaecological examination of the external genitalia and the cervix for conformation and health, and an ultrasound examination of the uterus and ovaries to look for cysts, tumours and other abnormalities that might suggest breeding complications”.

Cervical damage – usually tearing or scarring from a previous difficult foaling – is one of the things they’re looking for, because it directly affects the mare’s ability to conceive and carry.

Ultrasound will also pick up uterine cysts and free fluid. Cysts can interfere with conception and embryo monitoring; fluid in the uterus needs to be cleared before breeding.

For mares being inseminated at home or at an AI centre, ultrasound has a second job: tracking the mare’s cycle so that insemination is timed as close to ovulation as possible. Chilled and frozen semen both have a short window of effectiveness, so the scanning becomes part of the routine, not an optional extra.

In some cases – particularly with older mares, mares with a history of pregnancy loss, or mares whose history is unknown – your vet may recommend a uterine biopsy. A small sample of the uterine lining is examined under the microscope, and the degree of scarring (fibrosis) it shows is one of the best predictors we have of whether the mare is likely to carry a foal to term. For a heavily fibrotic uterus, the honest answer may be that breeding isn’t worth pursuing.

Hygiene and the human factor

It’s easy to focus on the mare and forget that bacteria travel on hands, equipment and clothing too. Disposable gloves, changed between every horse, separate sterile equipment for each animal, and clean water are basic requirements wherever breeding work is happening. Reputable studs run tight protocols; ask about them if you’re new to a yard.

Plan early, save money later

The single most useful thing an owner can do when preparing a mare for breeding is start the conversation with their vet in good time – ideally in late autumn or early winter for a spring covering. That gives you room to swab, blood-test, address any conformational or uterine issues, get the Caslick’s done if needed, and have certificates in hand before the stud or AI vet asks for them.

Breeding will always involve a degree of luck. The preparation is where you give yourself the best possible chance.

For unlimited access to advice on how best to care for your horse, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

17 ways you can help your horse lose weight

Georgia Guerin — Thu, 28 May 2026 10:56:10 +0000

Having an overweight horse can be incredibly stressful and you’ll find yourself spending a lot of time thinking about how you can help them to lose weight.

Obesity in horses increases the risk of of many health problems, including laminitis, equine metabolic syndrome and joint pain, which makes losing the excess weight all the more important.

Studies indicate that 50–70% of horses in the UK are overweight or obese. Unfortunately because, as a nation of horse owners, we are so used to seeing it, many struggle to recognise when their horse has an issue.

The battle of getting an overweight horse to lose weight is something that I have personal experience of. My pony is the definition of good-doer and when I bought him around 10 years ago he was very overweight. He had a bout of laminitis in our first summer together and after that I became militant. Over the next few years, I worked towards finding a sustainable way to get his weight down and, importantly, keep it off. We eventually hit our stride and he lost more than 100kg over a few years.

Of course, it’s taken a lot of commitment and it’s not all been plain sailing – for example, when we’ve moved yards, each move has required me to reassess how I can manage him best in the new environment with a different setup. Over the past decade I’ve tried almost every tactic and, although it’s hard work, it’s possible to help your horse lose weight – you just need to find what works for you both.

How to help your horse lose weight

Here are some things you can do to help your horse lose weight – the basic principles are “eat less, move more” but there are a number of ways you can arrive at this. You’ll likely need to incorporate multiple changes into your routine in order to see any results, especially if you have a good-doer.

H&H veterinary expert Karen Coumbe agrees that “the feed your horse is consuming is likely to be more important than any exercise, although both need to be considered” when helping your horse to lose weight.

1. Use winter wisely

In the wild, your horse would lose weight naturally over the winter months so if you’re trying to help your horse lose weight you can lean into this. It’s easier to get your horse to lose weight in the winter because it’s colder – so they’re using energy to keep warm – and there’s less grass around, so they’re less likely to overeat.

Horse should come out of winter with their ribs just visible, which will give some scope for natural weight gain when the grass starts to grow.

Over-rugging is a welfare problem and can have serious consequences. (Image credit: creditUnknown)

2. Avoid rugging unnecessarily

Horses do not get cold as quickly as we do and over-rugging an obese horse will prevent them from losing weight. Preventing the natural winter weight loss interferes with your horse’s hormones and they are much more likely to get laminitis in the spring.

Here’s some more information about when horses feel the cold and our rugging guide for every temperature.

3. Restrict grazing

There is more nutrition in pasture and forage that you might realise, warns Karen.

“That must be factored in, which might sound obvious, but is so crucial,” she says.

Ensuring your horse isn’t overeating is a key part of losing and then maintaining weight, and there are a number of ways to do this. It’s important that horses still consume at least 1.5% of their bodyweight each day to keep their gut healthy, so much of this is advice is about extending their eating time to make the same amount last longer, rather than simply eating less.

Here are four options to restrict grazing – you might find that incorporating a combination of these will give the best effect.

4. Reduce turnout

Keeping your horse in a stable or turnout pen for part of the day will reduce their access to grass and allow you to control what they’re eating within that time.

Being turned out at night and in during the day is preferable to the reverse as there are less sugars in the grass at night. They begin to rise again around 10am, so ensure your horse comes in before then.

Strip grazing can work really well for some horses. (Image credit: creditUnknown)

5. Strip graze

Strip grazing gives your horse access to a fresh strip or area of grass each day (or every time you move the fence), and using a follow fence will allow you to rest your pasture once it’s been grazed, too. You’ll need electric fencing to set this up successfully.

6. Implement a track system

A track system usually runs around the perimeter of a field, with water and hay distributed at various points along it to encourage your horse to move.

They often include a variety of surfaces and obstacles, such as small logs, for your horse to negotiate. Many tracks are entirely grass-free, but hay is usually provided ad-lib and horses learn to self-regulate their intake.

A grazing muzzle slows your horse’s intake, but cannot be used 24/7. (Image credit: creditUnknown)

7. Invest in a grazing muzzle

The best grazing muzzles slow your horse’s intake by reducing the amount of grass they can access at one time. Horses cannot wear a grazing muzzle 24/7, so to successfully incorporate this into your management routine, your horse will also need to be stabled or turned out in a bare paddock with hay for some of the day.

8. Extend eating time

Use one of the best small-holed haynets or slow feeders to extend eating time. This can help prevent horses becoming bored and reduces the risk of gastric ulcers. And the more time they spend eating one thing, the less time they have to move on and eat something else.

Keeping track of droppings can help you monitor your horse’s intake. (Image credit: creditUnknown)

9. Count daily poos

A great way to keep an eye on your horses’ intake – even if you’re not trying to get them to lose weight – is to count their droppings. It can be hard to tell how quickly the grass is coming through and how much they’re really eating, but if you poo-pick at regular intervals, you’ll soon notice if their daily output increases. You can then adjust their intake – by reducing hay provision or grazing access – accordingly.

10. Soak your hay

Soaking hay reduces the nutrient quality in the forage (replace the nutrients using a vitamin and mineral supplement). It strips the hay of calories, sugars and fructans, so that you can still feed a good amount to fill your horse and keep his digestive system working well without giving him any extra calories.

You need to soak hay for at least an hour, but if this is not resulting in weight loss then try soaking for longer until it does. Soaking for short periods, such as 10–15 minutes, only reduces the dust levels to help horses with poor respiratory health – it’s not long enough for weight loss.

When soaking hay:

soak it in the shade
use fresh water each time
balance a bucket of water on top to keep hay submerged
ensure the soaked hay still smells good
hang it up to drain and rinse with a bucket of fresh water
always feed straight after draining

11. Eliminate high-calorie feeds

Consider what you’re feeding your horse and whether you need to rethink. Not all horses need a bucket feet, but for those that do there may be a better option. For example, the best feed balancers provide the essential nutrients in a low-calorie package. If your horse is prone to laminitis, check out the feeds suitable for laminitics, as approved by The Laminitis Trust.

If you’re restricting your horse’s grazing and/or soaking hay, you should provide a supplement for horses on reduced grazing to ensure they receive a nutritionally balanced diet, unless you’ve already covered all bases with a balancer.

Introduce any changes gradually to prevent colic or dangerously rapid weight loss.

12. Change up your forage

Consider changing to a different type of forage if your current selection is high energy. For example, if you feed haylage try switching to hay, and if you feed hay consider adding straw to your horse’s ration.

Weighing feed and forage will prevent extras slipping in. (Image credit: creditUnknown)

13. Weigh everything you feed

A little bit extra here and there can really add up if you’re unknowingly feeding more than you intend – it’s so easy to put more in your haynet than you had accounted for. By weighing your feed and forage, you can be sure that your horse is getting exactly what he needs, and you’ll be able to accurately assess the difference made when you increase or decrease feed or forage by small amounts.

Here’s some more information about how much hay to feed a horse.

14. Avoid treats

Don’t give your horse treats for the sake of it – and make sure no one else does, either – as everything adds up. The same logic applies to allowing your horse to snack on his way in from the field or out on a hack.

If you use treats in training, ensure you’re using a super-low-energy option.

15. Increase exercise

You don’t need to be doing super-intense training, but increase the frequency or intensity of your sessions, or both if appropriate. Ask your vet or a trainer for advice if you’re unsure what you should be doing.

My pony only really hacks, but I’ve found that committing to hacking five days a week during the spring and summer months has made a real difference. On days that you’re really pushed for time, remember that a 25-minute brisk walk or quick schooling session is better than nothing at all.

If your horse is retired, consider other ways you can increase their movement, such as a track system, groundwork or walking in hand.

Using a weigh tape is often the simplest way to monitor your horse’s weight loss. (Image credit: creditUnknown)

16. Monitor weight

Monitor your horse’s weight by regularly reviewing your weight loss programme with your vet or nutritionist. Use a weighbridge for accuracy and then assess and record weight weekly using body condition scoring and a weight tape (like this one on Amazon).

“Having something concrete as a measure is useful,” says Karen.

I also like to feel my horse’s neck each day as that’s usually the first place I will notice a difference.

It’s useful to take regular photos – once a fortnight – of your horse standing square so that you can look back on how far you’ve come.

17. Ask for help

If you’re implementing these tips and still struggling or are not sure where to start, Karen recommends seeking “proper dietary advice from your vet or a trained nutritionist”.

She adds that many large feed companies are really helpful in providing sensible advice free of charge, with no obligation to purchase products.

What to do next

Use these tips alongside personalised professional advice to make a weight loss plan for your horse, aiming for steady and consistent loss. Once you’ve decided how you’re going to tackle it, begin by checking your horse’s weight so you have a start point for monitoring.

If you don’t see a change in the first two weeks, tweak your plan to incorporate more tactics to safely reduce intake and increase movement.

For unlimited access to advice on how best to care for your horse, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

Understanding the equine breeding season and your mare’s oestrus cycle

Bethany Stone — Mon, 25 May 2026 07:24:48 +0000

Equine breeding season occurs in the spring and summer. It is during this time that mares go into recurring cycles of oestrus, giving a window of approximately five to seven days in roughly every 21 days in which a mare is “in season”.

Breeding a mare takes careful preparation and precision, with plenty to work out in advance. From choosing a stallion and selecting a broodmare to working out how much it costs to breed a horse, a healthy amount of research should go into your decision.

When are mares in season?

Mares are seasonally polyoestrus, which means they recurrently come into season at a particular time of year. Generally speaking, a mare’s breeding cycles take place between April and October. However, this – and cycle length – can vary horse to horse.

In winter, a mare’s reproductive system goes into a rest period, known as anoestrus. After this winter inactivity, the cycle usually begins again in spring.

The mare does not suddenly begin to cycle regularly, but has a “transitional phase” when the length is variable. Once the mare is truly in the breeding season, her oestrus cycles last around 21 days.

Equine breeding season – understanding the oestrus cycle

Most mares have a 21-day oestrous (breeding) cycle. This is divided into:

Oestrus (average five to seven days)
Dioestrus (14–16 days)

The cycles begin at puberty (approximately 18–24 months) and continue throughout the mare’s life.

Oestrus

During this time, the mare is receptive to the stallion. Typical signs of oestrus include:

Adopting a urinating stance, raising the tail raised and uritinating in small squirts
Opening and closing the vulval lips, known as “winking”

During this time one or more ovarian follicles enlarge and burst, releasing an egg. This is ovulation.

The mare normally ovulates approximately 24 hours before the end of oestrus, and its exact timing is only determined by performing ultrasound scans of the ovaries.

Dioestrus

The mare’s receptiveness ends and she may flatten her ears, swish her tail or squeal/kick out at the stallion.

How long is a mare pregnant for?

If breeding is successful, mares are pregnant for about 11 months, though a gestation period anywhere between 320 and 350 days is completely normal for horses.

Manipulating a mare’s breeding cycle

Factors such as daylight, nutrition and temperature influence the equine breeding season.

Daylight controls the production of hormones that trigger a mare’s cycling. Therefore, the natural breeding season in the mare is strongest from May until August, when the days are longest, and the weather is warmest.

During the spring, or the months of February to April, the weather is unpredictable and the daylight hours relatively few. This irregularity and limited daylight window creates variability in the mare.

At this time, it can be difficult to predict when the mare will ovulate. This makes is all the more tricky to determine an accurate time to cover or use artificial insemination (AI). Therefore, it is not cost-effective to breed her, whatever breeding method you choose.

During the early equine breeding season, it’s possible to artificially manipulate the mare to encourage normal cycling, which can shorten this uncertain transitional period. Vet use two main methods to do this.

Light

Studies have shown that artificially increasing daylight to 14–16 hours daily for a minimum of eight to 10 weeks can induce normal cycling.

Progestogens

Progesterone treatment suppresses the release of luteinising hormone (LH), which allows LH to build up and be stored.

When progesterone treatment is stopped, a surge in LH induces a strong oestrous which usually results in ovulation.

ReguMate (Altrenogest) given orally once daily for 10-15 days is commonly used during the transitional period. Mares come into season four to seven days later and ovulation occurs seven to 12 days after treatment has stopped.

Vets also use progesterone releasing devices, which are placed in the vagina for 10–12 days. These medicines are shown to encourage ovulation and result in more successful insemination.

For unlimited access to advice on how best to care for your horse, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

Equine flu: what horse owners need to know during the current outbreak in Britain

Carol Phillips — Thu, 21 May 2026 13:27:03 +0000

This article has been edited and approved by Karen Coumbe MRCVS, H&H’s veterinary advisor since 1991.

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

Equine flu, as equine influenza is commonly known, is caused by various strains of the influenza virus that affect the upper and lower respiratory tract of horses, donkeys and mules. It is a major and economically important cause of acute respiratory disease throughout the world, with the exception of some island nations, such as Iceland and New Zealand. As H&H’s veterinary advisor Karen Coumbe has said, “equine flu rarely kills horses, but it does kill horse events”.

There has been a significant increase in cases of equine flu in the British horse population since 1 April 2026. This has led to tighter biosecurity requirements at horse shows and other places where horses come together. Six-monthly vaccinations are being recommended with horses’ passports now being checked on arrival at many venues. The increase in cases is not inline with the normal pattern, which research published in the Equine Veterinary Journal has shown typically increases in the final quarter of the calendar year.

British Equestrian (BEF) is calling for “horse owners, yard managers and vets to adopt a risk-based approach when moving horses, particularly between premises, events and regions” during this outbreak. The BEF has also stated that France is also seeing heightened equine influenza activity, particularly in the north of the country, so advises using “extreme caution when travelling horses to, from or through there”. This also applies to purchasing horses from France.

View the latest data from the Equine Infectious Disease Surveillance website

What are the signs of equine flu?

A very high temperature of 39-41C (103-106F) which lasts for one to three days
A frequent harsh, dry cough that can last for several weeks
A clear, watery nasal discharge that may become thick and yellow or green
Enlarged glands under the lower jaw
Clear discharge from the eyes and redness around eyes
Depression and loss of appetite
Sometimes filling of the lower limbs, muscle stiffness and other signs such as weight loss

How do horses catch equine flu?

As with the human version, equine flu is very contagious. With an incubation period of one to five days, it spreads rapidly as the virus is released into the atmosphere by infected animals. It is mainly acquired through inhalation of virus from ill animals coughing and spluttering infected respiratory droplets. Indirect spread is also possible via buckets or grooms/handlers/nurses/vets.

Unlike strangles and some other infections, the flu virus does not linger nor survive for long outside the horse, but it can be airborne, blowing over surprisingly long distances, certainly more than 1km.

Once the virus has been inhaled, it invades the lining (epithelium) of the horse’s airway, which becomes inflamed, producing a very sore throat and a nasty cough. This damage causes patches of the membranes lining the airways to ulcerate, which disrupts the clearance of mucus and debris from the airways causing a thick discharge from the horse’s nose. Bacteria then invade the damaged areas leading to further infections.

How serious is equine flu: do I need to call the vet?

If your horse shows a raised temperature and/or any signs of equine influenza, strict hygiene and isolation procedures should be adhered to immediately and you should contact your vet.

Horses that have been in contact with an affected animal should be carefully monitored and should not attend shows or external clinics or training.

It is recommended that horses on a stable yard with an outbreak of equine flu do not leave the premises while the outbreak is ongoing.

Diagnosis of equine flu

An accurate diagnosis of equine flu can be made by:

recognising the clinical signs and the history of rapid spread between horses
isolation of the virus through nasal or nasopharyngeal swabs
rising antibody levels in blood (serum) samples taken early in the course of the disease and two to three weeks later
history of recent contact with a confirmed case of the disease

Vaccinated horses may still show signs, but these are usually much milder than those seen in unvaccinated horses.

Equine flu treatment

Basic nursing is key when treating a horse with the virus. Good stable ventilation and dust-free management is essential. Exposure to dust should be minimised, as horses with respiratory infections are more susceptible to airway irritation. It is best to switch to dust-free bedding and feed soaked hay, or better still haylage, from the floor.

If weather permits and risks to other animals are manageable, then affected horses benefit from being turned out for at least part of the day once their temperatures have returned to normal. This is especially important in the recovery stages. At the same time infected horses should be isolated.

Antibiotics have no effect against a virus, but can be useful to control secondary bacterial invasion. This is a risk in foals or elderly or otherwise unwell animals, which can succumb to fatal pneumonia. Medications to help breathing can prove beneficial.

How long does equine flu last?

Horses that catch equine flu typically start to show signs around one to five days after exposure and it may take three to six weeks before the signs pass, assuming they are receive appropriate care.

Horses with a respiratory infection should be given complete rest and not restart any strenuous exercise until at least three to four weeks after the signs have gone.

How to prevent flu in horses

Flu is difficult to control, especially in equine that are frequently transported and mixed extensively, so regular vaccination of horses is important. Equine flu outbreaks are most common when young susceptible horses are brought together at sales and shows, or for weaning and training.

Surprisingly low numbers of the UK’s horse population are vaccinated, despite the fact that vaccination is the preferred method of control and is compulsory when competing under British Horseracing Authority, FEI and affiliated governing bodies’ rules in the UK.

Whenever you attend shows or training outings away from home, you should follow strict biosecurity and hygiene methods such as:

Do not allow horses to touch or sniff other horses
Riders/grooms should only handle their own horses and tack
Do not share buckets or kit with other horses/riders
Avoid using on-site water facilities. If this is impossible, avoid placing the hose into the bucket and sanitise your hands before carrying the bucket to the horse
Avoid hand grazing your horse at a venue
Ensure show stables have been disinfected before and after use and all bedding removed and replaced with fresh
Horse’s temperature should be taken before travel to an external venue
Horses returning from external venues should be isolated if possible, with their temperature and their health closely monitored

How often are horses vaccinated for flu?

All British equine sport governing bodies require the minimum of the first two vaccines to have been given prior to attending competition.

The British Horseracing Authority introduced new flu vaccination rules on 1 January 2022 to harmonise with other racing authorities in Europe. The new rules increased the frequency of boosters from 12 months to six months and reduced the time periods between the first and second vaccines from 21-92 days to 21-60 days, and between the second and third vaccines from 150-215 days to 120-180 days.

NB: We recommend all competition riders double check the latest version of the appropriate rulebook to ensure your horse’s vaccinations comply with their governing body’s requirements.

British Horseracing Authority: horses must have been vaccinated against equine flu within the past six months. Horses must not have been vaccinated less than seven days before racing.FEI competitions: a booster vaccination must have been given no more than six months and 21 days prior to competing. A vaccination should not have been given within seven days of the competition or of entry into the FEI stables.British Dressage (BD): Once a horse has received its first three vaccinations, further vaccinations can be given at 12 monthly intervals, but not within seven days of competing. In response to the spring 2026 outbreaks, BD is “strongly recommending that all members move to a six-month vaccination cycle”. If your horse’s last vaccination was more than six months ago, BD recommends “that you bring their annual booster forward to provide sufficient cover when competing during the summer season”.British Eventing (BE): Horses require an annual booster every 12 months for national BE competitions, since 1 January 2026. A horse may not compete if it has been given the booster on any of the seven days before it is to compete at an event. Although six monthly boosters are not mandated by BE, the organisation strongly advises that horse owners and competitors give horses an additional booster at this time of high risk if they were last vaccinated more than six months previously.British Showjumping (BS): Horses to have received booster vaccinations not more than 365 days from their last vaccination, and should not compete within seven days of receiving a vaccination. In response to the spring 2026 outbreaks, BS venues will be carrying out passport checks on arrival. BS has shared the Equine Infectious Disease Action Group’s recommendation that owners whose horses were last vaccinated more than six months ago, are strongly recommended to bring their next booster forwards to give them the best protection during the outbreak.British Riding Clubs (BRC): Horses must have had their initial course, plus annual (12 month) vaccinations to attend BRC qualifiers and/or championships.

If a horse or pony is competing in one discipline for instance, showjumping but it is attending an event at a venue, such as a racecourse, it will be required to comply with the vaccination requirements under the rules of racing, which means it must have been vaccinated within six month, but not in the previous seven days.

The British Horseracing Authority has stated that, from Wednesday 20 May 2026, only horses from licensed training yards will be allowed to enter racecourses on racedays. This means all scheduled hunter chases from 20 May have been called off and Retraining of Racehorses (RoR) parades are cancelled. Racecourses are also increasing the period of time between hosting an equine event involving horses from unlicensed premises and a licensed raceday to six clear days (from three).

The vaccination record(s) in the horse’s passport, must be completed, signed and stamped line by line, by an appropriate veterinary surgeon (who is neither the owner nor the rider of the horse). The responsibility to comply with this rule lies with the owner, who should consult with their vet.

From 1 January 2026, for horses competing under FEI rules, flu vaccinations must be recorded digitally in the FEI HorseApp, as well as in the horse’s passport. Vets must enter the vaccination details on the day it is administered. There is a transition period running until 30 June 2026 during which no sanctions will be issued, but from 1 July 2026 missing or incorrect digital records may result in fines for the person responsible (this is usually the horse’s rider).

What to do during an equine flu outbreak?

If flu occurs locally, it may be advisable to give a booster vaccination to any healthy horse that has not been vaccinated in the previous six months. Consult your vet for advice.

The BEF explains that “frequent boosters ensure antibody levels remain high, which is essential for reducing both the severity of the disease and risk of the virus shedding within the wider equine population”.

You may wish to limit the situations where you expose your horse to others by reducing the competitions and training outings you attend, or choose only to visit venues that actively check the vaccination status of equines in attendance and require six-monthly boosters.

Can humans catch equine flu?

The equine influenza virus is similar to the flu virus that affects people, but is not identical, so horses cannot catch human influenza or vice versa.

References and further reading

What happened after the epidemic? Equine influenza surveillance sheds light on sources and seasonal risk in the United Kingdom Equine Veterinary Journal, 5 March 2026

British Dressage’s equine influenza update, British Dressage website, 20 May 2026

British Showjumping’s equine influenza update, British Showjumping website, 21 May 2026

British Eventing’s equine influenza update, British Eventing website, 21 May 2026

Call for increased vigilance as number of reported equine influenza outbreaks in UK continues to rise, British Equestrian website, 12 May 2026

Annual booster vaccination and the risk of equine influenza to Thoroughbred racehorses Equine veterinary journal, 21 November 2019

British Horseracing Authority: amendments to the vaccines code, October 2021

British Riding Clubs Important Flu Vaccination Update, 21 October 2022

British Eventing vaccination update, British Eventing Facebook page, 15 December 2025

Mandatory registration of equine influenza vaccination details in the FEI HorseApp, FEI website, 12 Dec 2025

For unlimited access to expert advice on how best to care for your horse, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

Could LeMieux’s new grazing muzzle help make tackling equine obesity cool?

Bethany Stone — Mon, 18 May 2026 09:32:43 +0000

I’m a very relatable horse owner. Just like an estimated 30-75% of owners (depending on which study you read), I have a fat horse in my paddock.

It’s easy to dismiss my overweight equine, Pip (pictured below), with language that minimises the problem. He’s a chunky monkey one minute and “Pippo the hippo” the next.

But waving away the problem with phrases like “he looks well” and “he’s in show condition” – which is a whole other kettle of fish – won’t do anything to make him healthier.

Yikes… this is the photo that prompted me to buy Pip’s muzzle last summer. Photo: Bethany Stone (Image credit: creditUnknown)

Overweight horses are predisposed to conditions like laminitis, arthritis and certain types of colic. No one would willingly expose their horse to health problems, and I’m willing to bet that most owners of fat horses have the best intentions.

In fact, equestrians being unable to spot an overweight horse is a key factor many experts cite when asked why so many horses are fat. Others state that some owners may even misidentify a fat horse as a thin one.

Owners might be influenced by peers who criticise restricting their overweight horses’ diets.

Many horses are on lush paddocks, eat forage that oversupplies calories, and consume diet-balancing bucket meals that provide still more calories.

It appears we are a nation of horse feeders with sparing tolerance for equines on the leaner side. Turning the tide of opinion on equine body condition has so far been slow going. But what if equine weight loss were Instagrammable?

Grass restriction made trendy

Earlier this spring, equestrian product giant LeMieux, world-renowned for their saddlepad, boot and ear bonnet co-ords, released their first product aimed at slimming down fat horses – a grazing muzzle.

Launched in two colours, the muzzle has an eye-catching design and an affordable price point. Of course, Pip would only accept a style that was triple the price for his weight loss journey, so I’m not the proud owner of one. However, our own Georgia Guerin gave it our highest rating, so we can safely say it’s effective too.

LeMieux’s popularity means the brand is consistently releasing market must-haves, and if this muzzle is their latest trend, I think it’s only good news for equine obesity.

Horses get most of their calories from forage, so soaking hay and restricting grass intake is the way to get them in a deficit and cause them to lose weight. If an appealing new product encourages those who are on the fence about helping their horse lose weight to take action, then I think it can only be a good thing, however fashionable.

Naturally, a sea-change in feeding practices is going to take more than a “viral” product, and I do think the lesson of safe forage restriction is more important than a trending muzzle.

I expect there may be some individuals out there who think impressionable children may use the LeMieux grazing muzzle on their poor ponies who are healthy – or even thin – for the sake of fashion. Personally, I don’t think this could ever be true.

There’s hardly enough of an appetite for restricting grass intake of obese horses, let alone poor doers.

Liked this column? To read opinion pieces from some of the biggest names in the horse world, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

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How long should you be soaking hay for horses? An expert explains

Bethany Stone — Sat, 16 May 2026 07:00:04 +0000

How long to soak hay for horses is one of those questions that you hear asked by owners time after time, especially in the summer months, and there’s a lot of confusion around the subject. If your horse is overweight, dust sensitive, prone to laminitis or has equine metabolic syndrome (EMS), it’s probably something you’ve questioned at some point.

Horses in these categories may have excessive body fat, which can contribute to many other conditions, such as some types of colic and arthritis, and affects the body’s normal hormonal processes. Overweight horses are also more likely to have EMS, which is a condition that encompasses insulin dysregulation and predisposes horses to laminitis.

Tackling weight gain for these horses is a potential life-or-death factor, so we’ve asked independent equine nutritionist Clare MacLeod MSc RNutr to help you work out what’s best for your horse.

Why soak hay for horses?

The two main reasons are to reduce nutrient intake (when helping horses to lose weight) or minimise dust (for horses with respiratory problems).

Horses have evolved to spend most of their time chewing fibre, and to receive most of their daily calories from grass, hay and haylage. Often, forage oversupplies calories to horses, contributing to weight gain and obesity.

Soaking hay is an effective method for reducing its energy (calorie), water-soluble carbohydrate (WSC), or sugar and fructan content. This helps cut sugar and restrict calories from an equine diet.

Fructans are not the same as sugar, Clare explains. “They are sugar units joined with bonds that are fermented in the hindgut, rather than broken down by digestive enzymes.

“Research shows some fructan is broken down via bacterial fermentation in the small intestine. This is likely why it contributes to insulin response.”

This means fructans also contribute to laminitis.

How long to soak hay for horses: things every owner should know

The length of time you’d soak hay for depends on the desired result.

You might soak hay for 15-30 minutes to minimise dust for a horse with respiratory problems.

Soaking hay for 30 minutes to an hour slightly reduces its calorie and WSC content. However, the reduction may be insufficient to keep an obese horse in a calorie deficit, which is necessary for weight loss.

“Losses from soaking can vary,” says Clare. “It depends on factors including the composition of the hay, the amount of water used and the temperature,”

“Therefore, research that shows significant losses of WSCs in an hour or two cannot necessarily be relied upon in all real-life situations.

“In addition we are not soaking just for sugar and fructan loss but also for energy (calories). Reducing sugar without a significant reduction in calories will be insufficient for weight-loss targets.

“It’s not just sugar that horses get calories from – it’s fructan and fibre, too!”

Clare says water temperature can also influence nutrient loss.

“Losses are quicker in warmer water, so we might find we can soak for less time in summer, compared to winter, and in large volumes of water, so using as much as you can is key.”

Obese horses need reduced calories, but still need to chew to maintain gut health – small-holed haynets can make his ration last longer. Photo: Getty/Anja Janssen (Image credit: creditUnknown)

Can you soak hay overnight?

Soaking hay for longer periods of 8–12 hours, or overnight, is considered suboptimal by some due to nutrient loss and the risk of fermentation.

But, according to Clare, a balance must be struck.

“Long soaking [10+ hours] reduces dry matter – the amount of actual hay, and fibre. Therefore, we need to take this into account and slightly increase the weight of hay to accommodate this loss.

“Increasing the weight of long-soaked hay by 20% can accommodate this, but the long-soak generally means we would be feeding hay at a higher rate anyway, since it becomes less nutritious.

“This is part of the benefit of long-soaking hay: it means we can feed more forage to our horse or pony while maintaining the calorie deficit they need for weight loss or healthy weight maintenance.”

As well as feeding more soaked hay, Clare adds that owners should use the bucket feed to ensure optimal nutrition.

“In terms of nutrient intake, we do need to carefully balance the diet with long-soaked hay,” she says.

“This can be done by adding a well-formulated feed balancer, such as a low-calorie compound concentrate fed at 100g per 100kg bodyweight, if there is no grass in the diet.”

Soaking hay overnight leads to elevated bacteria levels, but is better for a horse than obesity and its associated health risks. Photo: Philip Barker (Image credit: creditUnknown)

Clare recommends considering long-soaking hay in cost-benefit terms for overall equine health.

“Although bacterial count can increase on long-soaked hay, there is no evidence showing this occurs to a level that is harmful to the horse. Plus, horses and ponies have been fed long-soaked hay for years with good results,” explains Clare.

“We should only soak for as long as necessary, but also realise that a slightly elevated bacterial count in hay is less unhealthy than chronic obesity with altered metabolic parameters, for example insulin dysregulation and/or laminitis.”

How long does soaked hay last?

As a rule, Clare says that soaked hay should be fed as soon as it has drained. Avoid re-presenting any uneaten quantity to your horse.

The quality of the hay to be soaked will likely influence its longevity.

“We should select only good hygienic quality hay for long-soaking,” she continues. “By this, I mean hay that is not dusty, with no signs of a high mould spore count (no fine smoke-like clouds that go airborne when you pull it apart).”

Other good hygiene practices to improve the life of soaked hay include:

Soaking out of direct sunlight
Using clean water for every soak
Keeping soaking vessels and haynets clean
Using the largest volume of water possible to speed up the effects of soaking
Avoiding a long soak (for 10+ hours) unless you have to
Remove and dispose of any uneaten portions

If the hygienic quality of your hay is suboptimal and there is no alternative, Clare says you could steam after soaking to improve the hygiene.

“With less than ideal hay to soak, using straw to replace some of the hay ration might be a better choice than a long soak,” she continues. “However, very dusty or mouldy hay should never be fed to horses.”

How long to soak hay for horses prone to laminitis

While we can’t put an exact figure on how long to soak hay for laminitis, Clare has a rule of thumb to follow.

“I recommend soaking for as short a time as possible, but with caveats,” she says.

“The soak time should also be as long as it takes for that horse or pony to be able to be fed enough forage to avoid more than a four-hour fast, whilst still receiving the correct amount of energy (calories) for the desired result.

“That might be for weight loss, or maintenance if they are at a healthy bodyweight, and to control the laminitis.

“So, it really does depend on the hay, and the individual horse or pony.”

How to dispose of water from hay soaking

To prevent pollution, you should not allow uncontrolled draining from the waste water used to soak hay.

You should store liquid waste in a waterproof container and then dispose of it at a permitted facility or land spread – for more information, visit gov.uk.

You must get permission from your local water company to dispose of liquid waste to the sewer or a controlled water source. For more information, visit gov.uk

For unlimited access to advice on how best to care for your horse, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

How much to feed a horse, and what can horses eat? Everything a first-time owner needs to know

Bethany Stone — Mon, 04 May 2026 07:30:52 +0000

Little and often, fibre-focused and balance in the bucket – feeding equines appropriately takes know-how

In the wild, horses self-administer fibre-rich grass and browse hedges for up to 18 hours per day. But when it comes to domestic equines, who live very different lives from their wild and feral cousins, you might be wondering how much to feed a horse.

Spend five minutes in the horse world, and you’ll find a plethora of opinions on the subject – professional and otherwise. It’s true that how much to feed a horse hinges in part on the individual: breed and type, level of work, bodyweight, age and underlying conditions. To address such nuances, consult with a professional veterinary expert or equine nutritionist.

That said, there are golden rules of feeding horses that apply more or less across the board. These help meet nutritional needs and ensure healthy gut function in every horse.

In this guide, I’ll cover not only how much to put in your horse’s bucket, but also his forage ration. Plus, we’ll explore the composition of his diet, and what you can feed as a treat.

Jump to:

Your horse’s forage ration
How much forage to feed a horse
What goes in a horse’s bucket?
How much to feed a horse in their bucket
What can horses eat

Your horse’s forage ration

Forage is the term given to fibre-rich, stalky fodder such as grass, hay, haylage and chopped fibres such as chaff. There are many types of forage, including hay replacers, all with different nutrient, calorie (energy) and moisture levels. Whichever forage type – or types – match your horse, the important thing to know is that forage forms the vast majority of a healthy horse’s diet.

A horse’s diet is mostly made up of forage, like this haylage. Photo: Andrew Sydenham (Image credit: creditUnknown)

Why is forage so important?

Simply put, forage is fibre, and fibre is essential to equine gut health. Horses are trickle feeders, which means they are biologically designed to eat for the majority of their waking hours – and horses don’t sleep much. Grazing on forage is how they achieve this.

Chewing on forage encourages saliva production, which helps buffer a horse’s highly acidic stomach. It aids digestion and guards against gastric ulcers.

Importantly, your horse’s forage intake supplies most of his daily calories, so it’s a true cornerstone of his diet.

How much forage to feed a horse

Typically, the textbook advice is that horses should eat 2-2.5% of their bodyweight in forage per day on a dry matter basis, or no less than 1.5-1.8% to encourage weight loss. A dry matter basis means the weight of the forage minus its moisture content.

This means that if your hay has a 12% moisture content and you need to feed 10kg of dry matter forage to your 500kg horse, you would need to feed 11.36kg of hay.

You calculate this by dividing the weight of dry matter forage to be fed (10kg, or 2% of 500kg) by the dry matter percentage of your forage (in this case, 0.88).

The ad-lib rule

That said, there’s another rule for how much hay to feed a horse. The best way to feed forage is on an ad-lib basis. This means giving your horse as much as he can eat throughout the day and night.

Constant chewing and movement of the gut is optimal for horses, and a plentiful stream of forage is the best way to achieve this.

The ad-lib method is not suitable for overweight or obese horses, because it delivers too many calories and too much sugar. In these instances, owners must be clever about how they feed hay to extend their horses’ eating time.

For instance, they might soak hay to reduce its calorie content, meaning they can feed a greater quantity safely. Or, they might use one of the best small-holed haynets to slow their horse down.

Chaff is fed in the bucket to help encourage chewing. Photo: Andrew Sydenham (Image credit: creditUnknown)

A horse’s bucket feed – what goes in?

Although a vital source of calories and nutrients, grass, hay and haylage are naturally deficient in essential micronutrients, including vitamins and minerals.

This means a forage-only diet doesn’t deliver the full spectrum of micronutrients horses need each day, and must be “topped up” by a bucket feed.

Additionally, some horses require extra nutrients such as protein, calories (energy) or supplements to support them through work, age or a health concern.

Traditionally, horses were fed straights. This means feed rooms contained a variety of components such as grains, cereals, legumes and fibres and owners would mix them to form the bucket ration. Feeding straights correctly requires years of expertise and advanced equine nutritional knowledge.

These days, most owners feed from bags that are formulated by expert nutritionists and mixed for you by horse feed companies. These offer a correctly balanced diet when fed alongside appropriate forage.

In general terms, bucket rations often contain a selection of the following:

Dried chopped forage or chaff to add fibre, aid digestive health and comfort, and to help encourage chewing to help avoid choke
Pelleted or powdered feed balancers that, when fed at the recommended rate (usually around 100g for a 500kg horse) deliver the full spectrum of nutrients horses and a balanced diet alongside forage. They might also be formulated to address particular nutritional needs, such as for a veteran or breeding stock.
Coarse mixes that look like museli. Like balancers, these are formulated for different purposes and are often workload or performance-specific. They must be fed at the recommended rate to ensure the horse’s recommended daily nutrient intakes are met. Otherwise, they can be “topped up” with a balancer or vitamin and mineral supplement
Feed cubes (also called nuts) that serve the same purpose as mixes but can help discourage fussy feeding. They must also be fed at the manufacturer’s recommended rate or be “topped up”
Supplements that balance the diet for horses who don’t need any more calories or protein – there are joint supplements, respiratory supplements, gut balancers and so on
Mashes or soaked sugarbeet for hydration, conditioning, added fibre and additional calories and/or nutrients. Horses with poor dentition can benefit from these
Oils to add calories or promote a healthy coat
Straights for top dressing, such as oats to fuel performance or linseed for condition. These must be added with regard to total diet balance. If not, they can cause harmful imbalances, so it’s best to seek advice of a nutritionist before adding these.

Generally, bucket feed is wetted to encourage thorough chewing (to help avoid choke) and to lay any dust. For most feeds, the water added wouldn’t be enough to make a difference to hydration.

Large volumes of feed should be split over several bucket rations. Photo: Andrew Sydenham (Image credit: creditUnknown)

How much to feed a horse in their bucket

Another common saying in the horse feeding world? Feed little and often.

Despite their stature, horses have a relatively small stomach and a complex gut. Because of this, there is clear guidance on how much to feed a horse in their bucket at a time.

According to independent nutritionist Clare MacLeod MSc RNutr, a 500kg horse’s individual bucket feed (before adding chaff) should weigh no more than 1.5kg.

“The reason for this is the relatively small size of a horse’s stomach,” she explains, adding that it has a roughly 8-15 litre capacity.

“Also, horses evolved as a trickle-feeding forage eater, not as a large meal-eater.

“Another reason to keep concentrate meal size small is that it avoids overwhelming the capacity of the small intestine (the next part of the gut). It especially helps avoid large volumes of starch, which in turn helps to keep the hindgut healthy.”

Clare adds that calculating the total weight of bucket feed a horse needs per day depends how much concentrate they need to balance the nutrient shortages in grass, hay and haylage.

Sometimes, a horse must eat several kilos of bucket feed to attain the required nutrient and/or calorie intake. Because of the little and often rule, this volume would need to be spread across two or more feeds a day.

What do horses eat?

As well as their majority fibre diet of grass and hay/haylage and the contents of their bucket (see above), horses can eat a variety of foods as treats.

The best horse treats are high-fibre and low in sugar and starch. These are ideal for digestive health. Many horse feed companies manufacture treats for horses, and these should be fed according to their guidelines.

You can also feed handfuls of chaff as a low-value food reward.

Horses can eat many other fruits and vegetables as an occasional treat, but moderation is key. Safe treats for horses include:

carrots, cut into batons
parsnips, cut into batons
apples, halved or quartered
bananas, including the skin
celery, cut into batons
watermelon chunks
Turnips, cubed
Herbs, such as fenugreek and chamomile
Hedgerow plants, such as hawthorn, hazel, cleaver, rosehips

Horses can eat many fruits and vegetables, including bananas. Photo: Andrew Sydenham (Image credit: creditUnknown)

Highly processed foods, such as bread and biscuits, are not good for horses.

Many owners feed mints, such as Polos, to their horses as a reward but these should only be fed occasionally.

Horses should not eat foods that produce intestinal gases, such as onions, potatoes, tomatoes, cabbage and Brussels sprouts.

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The golden rules of feeding horses that all owners should know

Georgia Guerin — Wed, 29 Apr 2026 13:30:00 +0000

Every owner should learn the rules of feeding horses because a good understanding of equine nutrition is key to ensuring your horse remains healthy and in good condition all year round.

These rules cover the basics when it comes to feeding horses. There’s so much more to learn, but this is an excellent place to start.

Golden rules of feeding horses

These rules can be applied to every horse and will help maintain good health and avoid preventable digestive problems.

1. Provide access to fresh clean water at all times

Water is the most important part of your horse’s diet and is often overlooked. Horses should have access to fresh water at all times, whether stabled or in the field, to prevent dehydration.

An average horse at rest will drink around 25 litres a day and this can increase to more than double this amount if the horse is working hard or a hot environment.

Troughs, buckets and other water containers should also be kept clean.

Keep feeds in clean, rodent-proof bins or containers. (Image credit: Sarah Farnsworth)

2. Maintain good hygiene

Store your feed in a secure rodent-proof container within a clean, dry area to prevent damage from pests and moisture. Always use clean buckets, scoops and stirrers, and clean feed bins regularly.

3. Use high quality feeds

Never be tempted to feed dusty, mouldy or old feed. Doing so could cause respiratory problems, allergic responses or digestive upset.

Keep meals small by splitting your horse’s ration across the day. (Image credit: Getty Images)

4. Feed little and often

Horses have small stomachs and have evolved to trickle feed rather than eat large meals. If your horse’s bucket feed weighs more than 1.5kg, it must be split into two or more feeds over the course of the day. Splitting rations that weigh less it into multiple feeds is also beneficial.

5. Feed by weight, not volume

A scoop of one feed will not weigh the same as another as they have different densities. To ensure you’re feeding the correct quantities and know that your horse is getting everything he needs, weigh each type of feed you use.

Some bagged feed balancers will come with a cup or cardboard scoop to help you measure.

While two horses may live together, they are likely to have different nutritional needs. (Image credit: Andrew Sydenham)

6. Feed your horse as an individual

When feeding your horse, consider bodyweight, temperament, age and workload. You may need a horse to lose weight or be trying to help a horse gain weight, while some horses need low-sugar and starch options to prevent excitability.

Horses working harder will need more energy and feeding performance horses is a particular art and science. Older horses will have different requirements, too.

When something changes, such as workload due to injury, you’ll need to reassess your horse’s nutritional needs. If you’re unsure what to feed your horse, seek advice from your vet, an independent nutritionist or free nutritional helpline.

7. Make any changes to the diet gradually

Making dietary changes over at least a week will help reduce the risk of digestive upsets, such as colic. This rules applies to making changes to your horse’s bucket feed as well as the type of forage, including grass.

Introduce small amounts of the new foodstuff gradually, while withdrawing the original feed component at the same rate if necessary. This helps your horse’s digestive system adapt to the changes and produce the correct microbes to break down the new food.

8. Avoid exercise for one hour after cereal-based meals

Horses are unable to digest cereal-based meals quickly, so you should not exercise them after giving a hard feed to allow them time to digest it. It is, however, beneficial to feed horses something fibre-based before exercise to reduce the risk of acid splash in the stomach, which could lead to gastric ulcers.

Horses love routine and will know when to expect food. (Image credit: Alamy)

9. Feed your horse at the same time each day

Horses are creatures of habit and thrive on a regular routine. Doing this helps reduce stress and is good for gut motility.

10. Ensure forage is the cornerstone of your horse’s diet

Horses have evolved to live on high fibre diets and good fibre levels will help to stimulate a healthy gut function and reduce the risk of digestive upsets.

Forage should be fed ad lib where possible – here’s more information on how much hay to feed a horse. If your horse struggles with traditional forage options due to poor dentition, check out the best forage replacers.

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How to measure a horse, and what is a lifetime height? H&H explains…

Bethany Stone — Tue, 28 Apr 2026 11:40:02 +0000

Ever wondered how to measure a horse? It’s not as straightforward as standing them with their back to a door and marking at the top of their head as you might do with a child. While historically horse height was always recorded in hands, now centimetres is also used, particularly for competition ponies.

But does it really matter exactly how tall a horse or pony is? Well, in some cases, it’s essential. Exceeding a prescribed height can even be grounds for elimination from competition.

Confused? I’m not surprised. Read on for the low-down on how to measure a horse, and why recording height accurately can make or break a horse or pony’s value.

How are horses measured?

There are two important things to remember for how to measure a horse.

The first, horses are measured to their wither, the highest point of the horse’s back above the shoulder and usually around where the mane stops growing. To find the exact point, ask the horse to lower their head and the first point that doesn’t change is the wither.

The second is that horses are typically measured in hands. Hands are an archaic unit of measure that, if you’re unfamiliar, might take a moment to wrap your head around.

As a rough explainer, there are four inches in a hand. So, a horse that is 15 hands high (or hh to give it its abbreviation) is 60 inches tall to the wither.

What happens if a horse is between complete hands? Surely if he were 15 hands and two inches, he would be 15.5hh?

Not quite – here’s where measuring in hands gets quirky. The number after the point shows the additional number of inches, rather than part of a hand.

Therefore, a horse that is 15 hands and two inches is 15.2hh.

Finally, we don’t say 15.4hh, that would be 16hh.

Pony height

Just to make things confusing, ponies are often measured in centimetres to the wither. This is especially true of competition ponies, whose height determines the class they can compete in.

How to measure a horse: step-by-step

To measure a horse, you will need a height stick (like this one on Amazon). These are essentially large rulers showing measurements in hands. They have a sliding arm attached at a right angle with a spirit level that, when resting on the wither, will indicate the height measurement.

Or, you can use a height tape (like this one). I personally find the height tapes cumbersome because they aren’t rigid. However, they are cheaper to buy and easier to store, so there are pros and cons to each.

You may not need a helper to measure a calm horse who is happy to stand square. (Image credit: Emma Herrod)

Ask a helper to stand your horse square on a level surface, such as a concrete yard.
Stand the height stick upright, parallel with the horse’s wither.
Slide the arm down so it’s resting on top of the wither and the spirit level reading is central.
Making sure your horse is still standing square, take the height reading from the ruler.

You may need to desensitise your horse to the height stick over a few sessions before you can take an accurate reading. Using positive reinforcement training, gradual practice sessions and allowing your horse to investigate the stick with his nose will help him feel more comfortable.

What is a horse’s “life height”?

Some horses and ponies have their height officially recorded for competitive, passport and/or breed registration purposes.

This is because some competitive classes, particularly pony showjumping and showing classes, have height restrictions and some breed societies will only accept equines within a certain height range.

In order for these horses and ponies be accepted, owners may need to provide concrete proof of their animal’s height. This usually takes the form of an official height certificate.

Because competition horses and ponies can be tremendously valuable for specific classes, a height certificate can be vital to secure a sale.

Similarly, some breeds are highly sought after. A height certificate confirms an individual fits the breed standard – or doesn’t.

In the UK, these are issued by the Joint Measurement Board (JMB), British Showjumping (BS) and the FEI. They were formerly known as life height certificates.

JMB certificates

The basis for JMB measurements is the accurate and repeatable recording of an equine’s lowest relaxed height at the highest point of the wither.

These might be annual height (when the horse is four, five, six or seven, or eight-year-olds who are having their first measurement) or a full height certificate (from eight years old providing there has been one annual measurement the previous year).

An official measurer performs the measurement with a calibrated stick and care is taken to ensure the horse is thoroughly relaxed when the measurement is taken.

JMB’s member societies include the British Connemara Pony Society and British Show Horse Association.

British Showjumping National Pony Measuring and FEI Pony Measuring System

BS used to be a JMB member body, but stopped accepting JMB certificates in early 2024.

Instead, BS introduced a new system of pony measuring from 1 April 2024. This system closely replicates the FEI’s Pony Measuring System. BS pony measuring is undertaken in sessions in various locations around the UK.

Under the BS system, a pony that measures in and is eight years old or older will receive a Lifetime Measuring Certificate. If a pony measures in and is under eight years old, it will receive an Interim Measuring Certificate, which is valid for 15 months.

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Horse owners warned to be vigilant after ‘marked increase in equine flu’ cases

Eleanor Jones — Tue, 21 Apr 2026 13:26:27 +0000

Horse owners are urged to be vigilant, ensure vaccinations are up to date and report any new outbreaks of equine flu after a “marked increase in activity”.

The equine infectious disease surveillance (EIDS) team at Cambridge Vet School told H&H it is continuing to report cases and outbreaks; equine flu has been reported from 14 different locations in 11 English counties in the three weeks since the beginning of April.

“This is a marked increase in flu activity compared to the first three months of 2026, when the group were made aware of only two equine flu outbreaks,” an EIDS spokesperson said.

EIDS issued an alert on 10 April, of a “sudden rise in equine influenza outbreaks detected in the UK this month”.

The six cases recorded at that point were in six counties, five were in horses who had recently arrived; three from Europe including Ireland and the Netherlands.

By 17 April, nine cases had been reported in total; the EIDS team said: “A steady rise in diagnosed outbreaks is evident over the first three weeks of April indicating accelerating transmission. Although the fourth week currently shows fewer cases, this likely reflects reporting delays, and early indications suggest the upward trend may continue.”

Information is on the EIDS website

EIDS keeps its website updated and horse owners can check cases nationally or by area; the counties in which cases have been reported since 1 April are Berkshire (one), Cambridgeshire (two), Gloucestershire (one), Hampshire (two), Kent (two), Lincolnshire, Shropshire, Suffolk, Surrey and Warwickshire (one in each) and North Yorkshire (one).

The two Kent cases were on the same premises and although the two North Yorkshire cases were reported nearly three weeks apart, they were confirmed a week apart.

It is too early to determine whether this week’s reports indicate a further increase in cases as there is always a delay in reporting owing to the time for owners to call the vet, the disease to be diagnosed and the report made.

But “EIDS continue to urge vigilance and encourage horse owners and vets to investigate signs of respiratory disease in the horses under their care and in particular to promptly report to us when they have positive diagnoses of equine influenza (or other infections such as equine herpes virus) so we can continue to monitor progression of spread in the UK,” the spokesperson said.

Owners with concerns about flu are advised to contact the vet; vets with concerns about suspected or confirmed cases can call the EIDS advice line on 01223 766496.

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How much does it cost to breed a horse? H&H crunches the numbers

Oscar Williams — Fri, 17 Apr 2026 12:26:28 +0000

Breeding your own horse is, for many owners and riders, an appealing proposition – the chance to produce exactly the type of horse you want, from bloodlines you’ve chosen, with every stage of their development in your hands. But how much does it cost to breed a horse?

It’s certainly not a cheap way of getting your next horse, and the costs involved with breeding a horse are often significantly higher than buyers and breeders anticipate. It’s important to say upfront: most small-scale breeders don’t make money from breeding horses. “Making a bonfire out of banknotes would be a cheaper hobby,” as one hobby breeder puts it.

Caroline Ironside of MFS Stud Farm in Scotland, who has been breeding sport horses for 30 years, calculates that she needs around £9,000 per foal simply to break even – and that’s before accounting for the value of her own time, her land, or her stabling.

As Eva-Maria Livesey, executive director of British Breeding, points out: “Our foals are actually remarkably cheaply priced, given that there’s a lot that goes into them that breeders don’t even think about as a cost.”

Understanding what goes into producing a horse helps explain why good youngstock costs what it does – and why, more often than not, the breeder is subsidising your purchase.

It’s also worth knowing that British breeders operate at a structural disadvantage compared to their European counterparts. In Germany and the Netherlands, horse breeding is classified as agriculture, giving breeders access to subsidies, tax advantages and cheaper land and feed that British studs simply cannot access. In the UK, horse breeding is classified as a leisure industry – regardless of how professionally it is run. The result is that British-bred horses often cost more to produce than equivalent horses on the Continent, for reasons entirely outside the breeder’s control.

Costs involved with breeding a horse

I’m going to lay out the costs of breeding a horse. All prices quoted are approximate and based on prices at the time of publishing (April 2026). These costs will vary significantly depending on your location, whether you have your own land and facilities, and whether everything goes to plan, which, with horses, it often doesn’t.

I’ll cover the costs of:

Stud fee
Veterinary fees
Stud keep charges
Cost of foaling down
What can go wrong – and what it costs
Subsequent costs
What happens next

Importing semen from a top international stallion can cost more than £2,000. (Image credit: Alamy)

Stud fee

While natural covering is still used, artificial insemination (AI) with chilled or fresh semen is the most common method of breeding sport horses. Stud fees can vary from a few hundred to many thousands of pounds – importing semen from a top international stallion can cost £2,000 or more – but an average fee for a good, proven stallion is likely to be in the region of £1,000 plus VAT.

If you’re using a stallion standing abroad, be prepared for significant additional costs on top of the stud fee itself. Post-Brexit, a single semen shipment from Europe that once cost around £30 now costs in the region of £240, with mandatory veterinary documentation adding a further £25. Health papers, collection and delivery charges can add £150-200 or more to the bill. If your mare fails to hold on the first cycle – which is far from unusual – those shipping costs alone can exceed the price of the semen itself.

“Before we’ve even started, our costs are way up compared to European breeders,” as one breeder puts it.

Veterinary fees are an unavoidable cost of breeding, so make sure you understand what’s covered. (Image credit: Lucy Merrell)

Veterinary fees associated with breeding

Vet fees are unavoidable, but most studs offer all-in-one packages in conjunction with a veterinary practice. Prices vary from around £275–450 plus VAT for the first cycle using chilled or fresh semen, though costs have risen in recent years partly due to the consolidation of equine practices into large corporate groups.

Package components vary, so make sure you understand exactly what is and isn’t included. Packages for maiden mares and those over 18 can cost more. You can opt to pay vet fees in the usual way rather than via a package if you prefer.

If you’re using frozen semen or embryo transfer, costs increase considerably – a full embryo transfer package from a top-level mare can run to £4,500 or more, with recipient mare hire adding a further £1,000 on top.

Stud keep charges

If your mare is to be covered naturally, she’ll need to go to stud. The use of frozen semen requires a high level of veterinary attention, so sending your mare to a specialist stud is recommended. With fresh and chilled AI, it is possible to breed from an experienced broodmare at home.

The length of stay at stud will vary. If you live locally, your mare can travel to and from the stud between insemination and pregnancy confirmation. But a resident mare that doesn’t hold for two or three cycles could be away for three or four months.

Grass keep will lessen costs, but these will soon add up if you want your mare stabled.

There’ll also be routine costs to consider – teeth, feet, and worming – as well as specialist feed in the last trimester and booster vaccinations prior to birth.

If you send your mare to foal at stud, expect her to stay for around four weeks. (Image credit: Getty Images>)

Cost of foaling down

Experienced breeders can foal their mare at home, although the vet will need to attend afterwards to check the mare and foal. If you decide to send your mare to stud to foal, she will need to arrive in good time and stay until the foal is strong enough to travel home. As well as the foaling fee – typically around £400-500 – there’ll be around four weeks’ keep, some of which will be stabled.

What can go wrong – and what it costs

It’s worth remembering that complications occur all too often, no matter how much care is taken or expertise deployed.

A joint infection can add £4,000 or more to your costs. A retained placenta will require immediate veterinary treatment – typically around £250. A retained testicle in a colt can cost £750 to correct. A plasma transfusion for a foal that has not received adequate antibodies from its dam can run to £1,000. And that’s before accounting for the possibility of losing a foal or a mare entirely.

As one breeder who has experienced all of the above puts it: “Where there’s livestock, there’s dead stock.” When budgeting for breeding, build in a contingency – ideally of several thousand pounds – for complications you hope will never arise.

Subsequent costs of breeding a horse

Once the mare and foal are home, the ongoing costs begin. The foal will need a passport, microchipping, sometimes a DNA test, and registration with the relevant breed society. If he is a colt, there may also be the cost of castration, typically around £500.

If you chose to keep the foal, you’ll then likely need to keep the foal for at least three years before they are backed. Over this time, you’ll be paying the normal costs of keeping a horse, such as feed, worming, vaccinations, and foot trimming.

For those without land, field rent and livery charges must be factored in. Budget a minimum of £2,500 per year for basic keep, though the real figure is often considerably higher – one commercial operation estimates it costs an average of £15,000 to take a horse from conception to three years old when all costs are properly accounted for.

And this is before backing and production costs, which is where the value of a horse increases significantly – but where the expenses do too.

Breeding is just the first part of the process, then you’ve got the producing to think about. (Image credit: Andrew Sydenham)

What happens next

The table below covers costs up to the point of backing – but it’s worth understanding that this is where the significant value increases begin, and where the costs continue to climb.

A horse that goes from unbacked to backed sees a notable spike in value, simply because it can now be ridden. From there, value tends to plateau between the ages of four and six, while the horse is developing but unproven.

In dressage, for example, the movements that really move the market – flying changes, the beginnings of piaffe and passage – typically emerge at six or seven in a professionally produced horse.

Each additional year of keep, training, and competition entry fees adds to the total cost of production.

So how much does it cost to breed a horse?

The table below gives an approximate guide to the costs involved in breeding a horse from conception to three years old, assuming everything goes straightforwardly — which it often doesn’t. Travel costs are additional, and if your foal is a colt, castration costs will also apply.

Service	Cost	Total
EHV vaccinations (course of 3 injections, with call outs)	£200 + VAT	£240
CEM and EIA tests	£120 + VAT	£144
Stud fee	£1,000 + collection fee, delivery and VAT	£1,400
Stud livery (grass only)	£270 + VAT per month	£324
Veterinary package for AI (chilled or fresh semen)	£345 + VAT	£414
Mare’s keep for the year	£270 per month	£3,240
Autumn pregnancy diagnosis	£60 + VAT	£72
Flu and tetanus boosters	£75 + VAT	£90
Foaling fee	£400 + VAT	£480
Mare and foal vet check	£120 + VAT	£144
Passport, microchipping, breed registration, DNA test	£150	£150
Three years keep including routine care	£2,500 per year (minimum)	£7,500
Total approx. cost to breed a horse from birth to backing	£14,198

Is it worth it?

For most small-scale breeders, the honest answer is that it rarely makes financial sense. The costs are high, the risks are real, and the market for youngstock is currently challenging.

And yet the breeders who remain are, almost without exception, passionate advocates for what they do – producing horses with individual care and attention that, at its best, results in animals that are better prepared for long-term soundness and rideability than those raised in larger, more industrial operations.

If you’re considering breeding your own horse, go in with your eyes open, your budget stress-tested, and a healthy contingency fund. But if you do produce a horse that goes on to fulfil its potential – knowing you were there from the very beginning – there are few things in the equestrian world quite like it.

For unlimited access to advice on how best to care for your horse, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

Do you really know enough to put your mare in foal? I love my horse, but I regret breeding him…

Bethany Stone — Wed, 15 Apr 2026 12:50:04 +0000

H&H’s Bethany Stone talks frankly about the lessons she learnt and why she believes you should think twice before putting your mare in foal

Talking horses is my job, but it can also be a painful point. Why? Because I don’t ride anymore, and I regret breeding my horse.

I’m physically able and mentally eager to ride horses. After all, horse riding first captivated me and brought me into the equestrian world as a child.

Since then, I’ve learned that loving and owning horses means just 10% of your time with them is spent riding, and do I relish the 90% that is, essentially, hanging out with and caring for a horse.

But I’d be lying if I said riding wasn’t important to me.

Sadly, my horse is the reason I can’t afford the cost or time to share one to ride, let alone buy a horse or rehome a ridden equine. As his breeder, it’s also my fault he’s here and therefore I’m responsible for him.

‘Intermittent lameness transformed into rearing’

When asked if I have a horse, I pull up a photo of my dark bay part-bred warmblood: 16hh, 11 years old, homebred, rather handsome.

“How lovely!” people reply. “And what do you do with him?” And I have to say: “Nothing, I retired him at six. He’s got a catalogue of medical issues, and he’s been retired for nearly half his life.”

I don’t usually say I regret breeding my horse. Instead I’ll talk about how we had a great start together – hacking, training, beach riding, going to our first shows.

Then, very subtle and intermittent lameness signs transformed into napping, bucking and rearing.

Several trips to equine hospital, joint injections and a year of unsuccessful rehab later, I had a horse who had completely soured.

So, I decided to put us both out of our misery and retire him to the field.

Pip is a lovely person and we have a bond again. He’s a living link to his fantastic dam, who I owned for 18 years until she died.

People often ask me why I don’t rehome or loan out Pip as a companion.

As his owner and the reason he exists, it’s a risk I could never take. Partly because he’s frequently tricky to handle, partly because I really love him, but mostly because he requires specific support thanks to his health conditions.

He’s been through so much, so if he ever fell into the wrong hands I would never forgive myself.

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

‘Another horse is missing out’

It’s hard to imagine there’d be any harm in breeding just one or two foals. But the cumulative effect of many individuals can lead to thousands of extra foals on the ground.

World Horse Welfare has done much to highlight the impact with their “Need to breed?” campaign, highlighting the vast number of horses they, as one charity, take in each day.

In fact, there are fewer and fewer places available as centres close and more owners give up horses.

Small-scale and one-off breeders – like me – also contribute to the problem World Horse Welfare identified.

You might be thinking that’s a bit like pinning carbon responsibility on individuals when corporations chuck out tonnes of it – and I grant you, there are parallels.

But having a whole life in your hands feels like a much bigger contribution than declining plastic straws.

I also believe that sometimes the smallest voices can merge to make the biggest statements.

Breeding Pip meant triggering a chain of events that means another horse who might have enjoyed a loving home with me is now missing out.

My horse’s stable represents one less knowledgeable and capable home available for the many thousands of horses in the UK who are suffering needlessly due to overpopulation.

‘He was a guinea pig’

My expertise in horse management has increased tenfold since my family decided to put my mare in foal.

We used guidance from knowledgeable contacts, but looking back with the benefit of hindsight nearly 12 years later, I don’t agree with everything they advised us to do.

For example, Pip was born with a bent forelimb. The advice we interpreted was to wait and see and that our colt didn’t need to see a farrier for many months.

Having spent my career interviewing top vets, farriers and academics, my feelings on this have totally flipped. If I could go back, I’d be calling an excellent farrier immediately, sending photos and asking how soon they could come out to inspect my foal.

To this day, Pip overloads the inside of that leg – you can tell by his hoof conformation. I didn’t know better, but I’ll always worry that leaving the leg unaddressed has contributed to his issues.

This, for me, is one of the astonishing things about breeding horses. As naive as my parents and I were, there were absolutely zero barriers to prevent us breeding from my mare.

That naivety, however loving and well-intentioned, has without doubt contributed to my horse’s medical and behavioural issues.

Every horse person, from amateur to professional, makes mistakes. But breeding my horse also made him a guinea pig for our amateur have-a-go breeding efforts, and that isn’t fair.

I often think about how differently I would do things next time, from birth to backing, but I can say with certainty there won’t be a next time.

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

‘He has a great life’

It’s important to say that my sensitive, tricky horse has taught me to be a much more sympathetic owner.

I now use positive reinforcement training and am far more focused on the three F’s in my care than I ever was before.

He has a great life, and I’m committed to giving that to him – even if it means riding is out of the question.

If everything went as planned with Pip, if we were sailing around grassroots eventing tracks, enjoying long hacks and getting stuck into training, I accept that I might feel much more positive about small-scale breeding.

Encouraged, I might have bred more foals only to encounter issues down the line or having to sell, thereby losing security over my stocks’ future.

‘Something to be taken extremely seriously’

I’m aware I might sound callous or selfish, and if you’re reading this with a homebred or two in your paddock, I’m not trying to point the finger or make you feel guilty about the wonderful horses you love and care for fastidiously.

Like mine, many homebreds have an unconditionally loving home for life. A great many others aren’t so lucky.

I simply hope to give would-be one-time breeders a little perspective. I understand why you want to breed a foal; it’s probably for the same reasons I did.

However, it’s something to be taken extremely seriously. Be extremely critical, honest and accountable regarding how much you know.

Be responsible and highly informed for every single step, from choosing your stallion to weaning, and from backing to producing. And you should not rely on “wait and see”.

My honest opinion to amateur horse owners is: don’t breed. Your next horse is among hundreds of horses out there already who are perfect for you. The one you breed might not be in that herd.

● Are you an amateur rider who breeds or has plans to do so in the future? We’d love to hear your views at hhletters@futurenet.com, including your name, nearest town and county, for the chance to have your thoughts published in a future issue of Horse & Hound magazine

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What you need to know about towing limits for horse trailers to keep your horse safe

Becky Murray — Tue, 14 Apr 2026 06:01:19 +0000

Understanding the correct towing limits for horse trailers is highly important from a safety and legal perspective – but it’s a topic that often causes heated discussion as many drivers interpret the rules differently.

For a set-up to be correct both the towing vehicle and the trailer need to be considered – and you must not exceed the vehicle’s gross train weight (GTW) or the trailer’s maximum authorised mass (MAM). Vehicles and most trailers will have a weight plate, displaying the GTW or MAM. These can also be found in the vehicle handbook, and on some trailer manufacturer’s websites.

Confusion can arise where people assume that a big vehicle has a large GTW – which is not always the case. Similarly, some might assume that a vehicle with a large GTW – for example many pick-ups – will always be able to carry two big horses, but this is dependent on the trailer’s MAM; a trailer may be stalled for two but the MAM might not be great enough for two heavy horses.

How much can my vehicle tow?

The DVSA provided the below guidance to H&H to help owners understand weight plates and work out how much their vehicle can tow.

Understanding towing vehicle weight plates

Most vehicles display a manufacturer’s weight plate under the bonnet or on the door frame. It typically shows:

Gross vehicle weight (GVW)
Gross train weight (GTW)
Maximum front and rear axle weights

The GTW is especially important when towing as it sets the maximum combined weight of the vehicle, trailer, and load.

An example of a vehicle weight plate. (Image credit: creditUnknown)

Understanding trailer towing weight plates

A trailer’s plate usually displays:

Maximum authorised mass (MAM)
Unladen (empty) weight
Axle weight limits

The MAM must never be exceeded, even if the towing vehicle is capable of towing more.

An example of a horse trailer weight plate. (Image credit: creditUnknown)

What is load weight?

Load weight refers to anything the trailer carries: the horse, tack, water, hay, equipment and any other items. To tow safely, you must:

Ensure total load + unladen weight does not exceed the trailer MAM
Ensure the combined vehicle and trailer weight does not exceed the GTW
Balance load correctly to avoid instability or sway

How to work out how much your vehicle can tow

Below is the DVSA’s advice on how you can accurately establish how much your vehicle can tow, taking into account factors such as the horse, passengers, equipment and water.

1. Check the vehicle’s maximum permissible towing capacity

This is set by the manufacturer and can be found in the vehicle handbook or on the weight plate.

2. Identify the trailer’s plated weights

A trailer plate will display its MAM

3. Estimate load weight

Add together:

Horse weight
Passengers
Tack, feed, bedding, and equipment
Water and any additional carried items

4. Compare actual weight against limits

Ensure the total does not exceed either of the following:

The vehicle’s maximum permissible towing capacity
The trailer’s MAM
Any combination or gross train weight limits

If you are ever unsure, you can take your vehicle to a public weighbridge to check the weight.

To summarise:

The GTW is the maximum weight of the:

Towing vehicle
Trailer
And everything loaded into the towing vehicle and trailer

The weight of the load carried on the trailer, combined with the weight of the trailer itself, must not exceed the MAM of the trailer.

Importance of adhering to legal towing weight limits

Towing beyond the legal weight limits is a significant safety risk. Exceeding the MAM of either the towing vehicle, the trailer, or the overall combination can:

Reduce vehicle stability and increase stopping distances
Increase the likelihood of trailer sway
Overload braking systems
Lead to mechanical failure or loss of control

For unlimited access to advice on how best to care for your horse, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

8 jobs in the horse world that you might not have considered previously

Georgia Guerin — Sun, 05 Apr 2026 07:30:29 +0000

I grew up knowing I wanted a job with horses, but I didn’t have a specific career path in mind at first. I just knew I loved horses – and that was that. Instagram didn’t exist and Facebook was somewhere that you posted pictures of nights out rather than a place of career research and inspiration.

I knew about the obvious jobs with horses – riding instructor, equine vet or groom, for example – but I hadn’t thought any further than that, and the careers advice at school just wasn’t set up for someone who wanted to do something a bit different. It focused on traditional professions and classic business roles.

Since then, I’ve done a three-year equine degree and spent at least a decade working in the industry. Over that time, I’ve had the pleasure of meeting and speaking to hundreds of people with jobs in all corners of the horse world. Some of them work hands-on with horses on a daily basis, but many of them have what most people might consider a “normal job” with a horsey twist.

It’s hard to land your dream job – and not everyone does – as there are lots of people looking to turn their passion into a career, but knowing what’s out there in the world of equestrian jobs is the best place to start. And some has to do them, so why not you?

Some roles involve hands-on work with horses and their daily care, while others are more removed. (Image credit: Getty Images)

Jobs with horses you’re likely to be aware of

Equine vet
Veterinary nurse
Farrier
Equine behaviourist
Equine nutritionist
Saddle fitter
Equine dental technician
Equine physiotherapist, chiropractor or massage therapist
Groom, ranging from a freelance groom in a specific discipline, to travelling groom or stud groom
Rider
Trainer
Coach or instructor

Jobs with horses you might not have considered

Below are some examples of jobs in the horse world that you might not have thought of – it’s not an extensive list, but I hope it might spark an idea and give you somewhere to start your search.

You might find you benefit from a broader experience in the related industry at first, which when added to your passion for horses and knowledge of the equestrian industry, will make you a great candidate for interview in a more specific role.

Marketing and advertising

Every company will need to market and advertise their product or service in some way. Within these roles, you could be involved with creating marketing plans and assets, such as adverts or social media creatives, or developing strategies to target new audiences who would benefit from your product or service. These roles are likely to suit problem-solvers and good communicators.

Equine education ranges from anatomy to practical husbandry. (Image credit: Getty Images)

Education and research

Does teaching and inspiring the next generation of the equine industry sound like something you could do? While being a maths teacher might not be something you’d ever contemplate, teaching other horse enthusiasts in a further education setting is a totally different prospect.

You might develop a specialist area – my lecturers taught everything from breeding science and equine husbandry to nutrition and biomechanics. Many people who work in higher education also conduct research alongside their teaching.

Communications

Most companies have a press and communications team or take on external PR support. These roles are all about getting a message out to the public. I receive emails from PR teams every day and they could include results from an event, advance information on a product release or potential news stories about welfare cases.

These roles are varied, but usually require decision making skills and the natural ability to connect with people.

Event management

Do you like the idea of being involved with the running of a big show like London International or Horse of the Year Show? These events can’t happen without a team behind the scenes who plan for months and years in advance to make them possible. Within these teams, you’ll have people responsible for schedules and entries, while others plan the trade stand layouts and sell the units to retailers.

These roles require excellent organisation skills, the ability to multi-task and work under pressure as there will be times where it’s “all hands on deck”.

Some equestrian media involve attending and reporting on events. (Image credit: Peter Nixon)

Media and journalism

This world doesn’t end at event and news reporting. These creative industries need designers, editors, website specialists, photographers, producers, commentators and presenters, and there is work to be found within print and digital publishing, TV, radio, podcasting and social media.

There are a range of skills needed in these roles – if I look at my own team, we all have strengths in different areas. Some roles require creativity, while others focus on accuracy, but all require good communication skills.

Insurance and law

From underwriting and customer service, to finance and legal services, there are a range of opportunities in these areas. In each case, it’s unlikely that you’ll spend any time with horses in person, but you can use what you know as a horse owner to identify with clients and understand their needs.

In jobs like this, it’s easier to separate your own horse life from your work, while still doing something connected to the world you love. These jobs would suit an analytical and logical thinker.

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

Retail and ecommerce

Are you one of those people who can sell anything to anyone? Do you love equestrian products and fashion, or a passion and talent for product design? There are a wide range of roles in retail, from working on a shop floor or managing an online equestrian retailer to working on a trade stand at major equestrian events.

Working in a customer facing role requires excellent people skills, while managing an ecommerce website would need particular IT skills. Everyone working in retail benefits from customer service experience.

Business support

Some of the more practical professions require a wide range of support staff. There are people behind the scenes at veterinary practices and welfare charities, for example, who do crucial work that isn’t directly involved with a horse’s daily care.

These roles could include office management, customer services, human resources or finance and payroll, and are likely to require an organised person who enjoys working as part of a larger team.

What to consider when looking for a job with horses

If you’re set on a career connected to the equestrian world, thinking about the following might help you narrow down which jobs with horses might suit you:

Your skills and interests outside of horses – what are you particularly good at and what do you get satisfaction from doing well?
Level of horse involvement – do you want to be behind the scenes in an office or would you prefer to be at the heart of the action? Or a mix of the two?
Career prospects – is there an obvious route for growth and development?
Working hours – are you happy to be working early starts, evenings and weekends or would you prefer a regular 9–5?
Travel – does national or international travel interest you?
Employment prospects – is an area saturated with staff or are there always jobs available?
Job security – how do you feel about working for yourself versus an employed role?
Remote work – do you want the flexibility of working remotely or do you prefer in-person collaboration?

How I found my career with horses

I left school on a path to become an equine sports therapist, but soon realised that although I could do all the assessments and massage techniques, I just didn’t have the passion and couldn’t imagine going out into the world and doing it every day. Some people on my course had a feel and eye for it – I did not.

However, during my time at university, I discovered skills I didn’t realise I had – writing and editing – as friends soon asked me to read through all their assignments before they handed them in. I would translate complicated anatomy and physiology we’d learnt in lectures to a language they could understand, offer suggestions of ways to improve assignments, and make corrections of spelling and grammar. In my third year, I realised I’d like a job where I took information and reproduced it in a way that people could understand. As it turns out, this is skill required in the world of editing and publishing – finally I could see a path ahead of me.

Oh how I wish I’d known about this skill sooner – or someone had opened my eyes to the jobs that were linked to horses, but didn’t involve the obvious practical element. I also wish someone had pointed out that I didn’t want to work during other people’s leisure time – I wanted to be off when everyone else was, too, whereas for other people the 9–5 is something they purposely look to avoid. I also didn’t want to be self-employed – there are certainly benefits, but at the time it wasn’t for me.

Over the last decade, I’ve worked my way through the publishing industry, carving out my niche. I am now deputy website editor at Horse & Hound but if you’d told me 10 years ago that I’d specialise in ecommerce and SEO as part of my ideal role, I wouldn’t even have known what they were. This just goes to show that there are lots of opportunities out there and as the world changes, businesses (and possibly your career) will adapt, too.

For more inspiration on jobs with horses, check out the ‘All In A Days Work’ feature that runs every week in Horse & Hound (here’s how to subscribe) where you’ll meet people in different careers from across the equestrian industry.

For unlimited access to advice on how best to care for your horse, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

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Types of livery to consider when looking for somewhere to keep your horse

Georgia Guerin — Fri, 03 Apr 2026 07:30:13 +0000

The majority of privately owned horses in the UK are kept on various types of livery yards. What’s offered by individual livery yards can vary enormously – and I have been lucky enough to have first-hand experience of a few different types – so here’s a handy break down of what to expect at different types of livery.

Thinking about what type of livery arrangement will suit you best is something to carefully consider if you’re buying a horse, assessing the cost of keeping a horse or looking for a new livery yard.

What is livery?

A livery yard or stable is where horse owners pay a fee (typically weekly or monthly) to keep their horses. Horses kept on livery yards are usually privately owned.

A livery yard not the same as a riding school – although some riding schools may offer livery as another part of their business – and facilities and types of livery vary widely.

Types of livery

Below are the most common livery options you’ll find in the UK.

Grass livery is usually the cheapest form of livery. (Image credit: Alamy)

Grass livery

This means that you’re being offered grazing only – no stable, although there may be a field shelter. Grass livery options also vary from a field space (either individual or group turnout) with a storage area, to having facilities, such as an arena or the option to pay for ad hoc for regular livery services.

It’s possible that your field may not have a water supply, although this is more common when renting land for grazing rather than on a livery setup.

Pros

Generally the cheapest form of livery
You don’t need to pay for a stable you won’t use if your horse lives out

Cons

You don’t have a stable in case of emergencies, such as needing to box rest
Usually less facilities available, although not true for all cases

DIY livery

Many horse owners choose DIY livery, as it tends to be one of the most economical options if you have time to care for your horse yourself. Once again, what’s included can vary a lot.

Some yards take “do it yourself” literally, and will expect you to pay for and undertake any repairs, while others will take care of the yard while you do all the jobs associated with looking after your horse. This may also include sweeping up and tidying of communal areas alongside other liveries.

Pros

Economical option
You have control over your horse’s daily care

Cons

It’s a lot of work
There are usually rules to follow, such as turnout times

Some livery yards offer services, such as mucking out, in addition to your package. (Image credit: Sarah Farnsworth)

Assisted DIY livery

This is where you keep your horse on grass or DIY livery, but usually either have help at one end of the day or can add on optional services as you need them. For example, you might be on a DIY yard and pay for your horse to be turned out three times a week if you need to get to work early. This is a great option if you need a bit of help or flexibility, but still want to be heavily involved in your horse’s care.

Pros

Saves you time and fuel travelling to the yard
Very involved with your horse’s daily care
Usually more flexible than part livery

Cons

Not all yards offer the same amount of flexibility with services
Services are charged as extras

Part livery

This is a step up from assisted DIY and tends to include all the essential aspects of horse care, but typically with no extras such as grooming, tack cleaning or exercise. It may be on a five-day per week basis, with owners doing DIY on weekends, or a full seven-day per week basis. It might also lean more towards the description of assisted DIY above with services at one end of each day. Yards can interpret part livery and the care package included differently, so it is essential you check what the agreement is first.

Pros

Saves you time and fuel travelling to the yard
Regular help

Cons

Wide variation in what yards offer

Some full livery options will have your horse ready for you when you arrive. (Image credit: Andrew Sydenham)

Full livery

This option probably has the most room for variation, so if you’re planning on moving to a full livery yard, make sure you know what’s included. Some yards will clean your tack, ride your horse, polish his hooves and read him a soothing bedtime story, while others will muck out and put him on the horse walker twice a day. Costs vary from “great value” to “it would be cheaper to buy him his own apartment in St Tropez”.

Pros

Great if you can’t commit to being at the yard twice a day on regular days
You can focus on riding in the time that you have

Cons

Expensive option
You may have less control over your horse’s care

Competition livery

If you would like your horse to be kept fit and taken to competitions by a professional rider, this is the type of livery you’re looking for. Competition livery involves your horse being on full livery, with the rider doing some or all of the exercise with your horse.

A sales livery will care for your horse while they manage the sale. (Image credit: Andrew Sydenham)

Sales livery

This type of livery does what it says on the tin. Your horse is in full livery on a rider or dealer’s yard, with the idea being that they will take on the responsibility of selling your horse for you. It’s likely that you’ll pay a weekly fee for the duration of their stay, and the seller will also usually take a cut of the horse’s final selling price.

Working livery

Working livery is usually offered by riding schools, and means they can use your horse for lessons in return for a reduction in livery fees or possibly in return for them doing all the work. This can be a good option if you don’t get as much time to ride as you’d like, but does mean you might not have much control over who is riding your horse.

Retirement livery

This is usually a similar setup to grass livery in that your horse will live out 24/7, but within a herd of other retired horses. Usually there is someone who will perform daily checks, feed and water. Depending on the arrangement, this person may also take on the responsibility of organising farriery visits and other care.

For unlimited access to advice on how best to care for your horse, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

How to spring clean your stable, with tips from a vet hospital supervisor and five-star eventing groom

Catherine Welton — Mon, 30 Mar 2026 08:45:01 +0000

It’s the season of spring cleaning, and where better to address your attentions than focusing on how to deep clean your stable yard. Spick and span doesn’t just look pretty, it’s healthier for horse and human, and we’re not just talking about mucking out here – we’re going the full hog.

How to deep clean your stable

Jayne Tansey is one of the yard supervisors at the Philip Leverhulme Equine Hospital. A medical setting requires exemplary standards of cleanliness and hygiene. This is how she would deep clean a stable:

Remove all faeces and urine, along with all the bedding, matting and equipment (buckets, tying-up string and so on)
Empty and clean any associated drains
Remove dust from all fixtures, such as lights, heaters, pipes, hayracks and from the rafters and roof
Manually scrub walls and floors with an animal-safe general surface disinfectant (like this one) to remove organic matter and clean grossly contaminated areas
Allow to dry
For a really thorough clean, repeat steps four and five

Jayne recommends speaking to your local farm supplier to get advice on the best chemicals to use.

“We use non-residue high-level disinfectants that do not contaminate the environment,” she says. “Our disinfectants naturally degrade to water.”

Disinfectant should only be used after all the organic material has been removed, otherwise it’s ineffective. (Image credit: H&H Archives)

Hygiene rules at home

Naturally, we may not be double-disinfecting our stables at home between each use as they do at equine hospitals, but clean beds go a long way in keeping horses healthy, especially when it comes to wind issues and infection.

Good hygiene is vital for equine health for three main reasons:

It helps stop infections spreading from one horse to another
It reduces a horse’s exposure to harmful bacteria in its environment
It lowers the risk of pathogens (germs) passing between horses and the people who care for them

For Jade Roberts, head competition groom to five-star event rider David Doel, hygiene standards are very much part of the job description.

“If I tip water out of a water bucket into a glass – would you want to drink it?” she asks.

With the welfare of top competition horses at stake, it’s no wonder that Jade is so particular.

“Hygiene is extremely important, you’re trying to eliminate any disease and health issues,” she explains.

“We try to keep the same standards at home, when travelling and at competitions. I do all the international competitions, and the younger girls join me for the one-days at home, following the same procedures so everyone knows what they’re doing.”

Travelling horses to competitions, Jade is particularly concerned with hygiene in relation to their respiratory systems. “You don’t want any coughs or snotty noses.”

Cleaning routine on top event yard

Jade outlines the routine at David Doel’s.

All the stables are mucked out every morning, and then also skipped out at lunch, in the afternoon (the slightly dirtier ones are mucked out again) and evening
All water buckets and haynets come out before you start to muck out
If a bed needs a top up, take the bank down and add fresh bedding to the banks rather than the middle of the bed to encourage rotation of the bed
Loose bits are swept out rather than into the bed – fresh forage shouldn’t be put on top of the crummy bits, which are made up of bedding and seeds from the forage, as it festers and gets moist, which is not good for the horses’ respiratory systems.

How to deep clean your stable: what are you missing?

When it comes to maintaining good hygiene on our own yards, there are some commonly overlooked areas.

Field troughs – standing water is an ideal breeding ground for bacteria
Rubber matting – the stable looks clean but debris and moisture can build up underneath, so these need to be lifted regularly (use a mat mover tool like this one to help) and the floor properly cleaned and disinfected
Tie-up strings – remove string between the turnover of horses, or use tie-up bungees that are washable
Food and water bowls – these need washing with detergent and rinsing well
Cross-tie clips if that area is communal
Travel kit – anything that goes to competitions, clinics or camps, might need more frequent washing

Water troughs are often overlooked when it comes to maintaining hygiene. (Image credit: Alamy)

Disinfecting a stable

Rosina Lillywhite, head of nursing at Liphook says that unfortunately, just sloshing around disinfectant isn’t the answer.

“Disinfectant is inactivated by organic material (like faeces and urine) so if you don’t remove that first, you’re just making your stable smell pretty.”

She also stresses the importance of correct contact time: “Disinfectant needs time to work, if it’s washed away it won’t be effective.”

Rebecca Bruford, head nurse at the Philip Leverhulme Equine Hospital, agrees that there’s a difference between a stable looking or smelling nice and actually being hygienic.

“Cosmetic cleanliness is important, but it is sensible to focus on risk-based hygiene,” she says.

She also says it’s worth being prepared for the worst.

“It might seem like overkill, but have a kit ready for a disease outbreak like strangles – a footbath, disposable hazmat suits, gloves – if it’s ready to go, then hopefully you never have to use it,” she says.

Hopefully you’ll never need it, but it’s good practice to have all the personal protective kit required in case disease strikes. (Image credit: Getty Images)

Tips for deep cleaning stables

Use mole grips or mat mover tools (like this) to help you move rubber mats
Use a garden knapsack sprayer (like this one) to apply disinfectant – you can even take it away with you to a stay-away show
Don’t try to substitute good old-fashioned elbow grease – you cannot beat manual scrubbing!

How do professionals deep clean stables: the gold standard

Abiee Olver is yard nurse manager at Liphook Equine Hospital. Hygiene and biosecurity are the top priorities, and it’s reassuring to see quite how high the standard is, even if our own yards are put in the shade.

“We care for in-patients such as newborn foals and horses with weakened immune systems, alongside some isolation cases, so it’s our most important focus,” she says.

The team at Liphook follow strict protocols, including removing all bedding, scrubbing walls, water buckets and feed buckets.

“We wash our hands between patients, and any time we touch a horse for a medical procedure, we wear gloves,” she says.

Jayne Tansey says the Philip Leverhulme Equine Hospital is similarly meticulous.

“Hygiene and biosecurity within the hospital are a large part of the yard technicians’ and nurses’ role,” Jayne explains.

“After every inpatient is discharged, the bedding is removed, and the stable is thoroughly cleaned. Stables are only reallocated to patient use following a negative environmental swab.”

And it’s not just the stables that are tested for bacteria.

“Spot checks are carried out where any member of the team can have their hands swabbed at any point, which is sent to our onsite lab for analysis of bacteria.”

And while we don’t need to go as far as swabbing our fellow liveries, Jayne points out that keeping on top of germs in our own stable management routine is important.

“You may not need hospital level protocols at home, but biosecurity is still very relevant,” she says.

“Damp and warm environments, such as stables and high touch areas, act as the perfect bacterial breeding ground. Biofilms can form on these surfaces, building over time that can make it difficult to remove bacteria and disinfectant becomes less effective.

“So, it’s important to clean ‘high touch’ areas such as tack rooms regularly.”

Tack rooms are “high touch” areas and should be cleaned regularly. (Image credit: Alamy)

Andrea O’Brien is company director at Equine International Shipping in Ireland.

“Hygiene is very important in the world of horse transportation,” she says. “For a number of different reasons, mostly biosecurity for safeguarding against the spread of disease, bacterial, viral or fungal infections, for example, ringworm.”

As well as maintaining hygiene standards for the horses in transit, they also have a layover yard where horses stay for their Department of Agriculture inspection, before leaving the country or on entry.

“Our layover stables have composite walls and sealed floors,” says Andrea.

“We empty every bit of shavings out of the box and wash down the walls with a soft brush, with disinfectant. We give the soft, sealed floors a brush down, let that dry and then later in the week we knapsack spray, then do all the feed pods, hay bars and the drinkers.”

Scientific understanding of bacteria, viruses, how they’re transmitted and the dangers of antimicrobial resistance is increasing all the time. Arming ourselves with the latest knowledge will help us keep our horses safe and reduce the risk of avoidable diseases.

Rosina says we shouldn’t be afraid to ask the experts around us: “If you’d like advice on hygiene and protocols, do speak to your vet or veterinary nurse as they’ll be happy to help you put a simple plan in place, so you can see what good practice looks like and where improvements might be needed.”

And, as Andrea concludes, “The cleaner the environment, the healthier the horse, at the end of the day.”

For unlimited access to advice on how best to care for your horse, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

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(Image credit: Getty Images)

7 spring horse care hacks and helpful advice to make this season a breeze

Bethany Stone — Sat, 28 Mar 2026 08:52:20 +0000

As the days draw out and temperatures rise, life with horses feels a little bit easier than it has done for a while, don’t you find? However, as every owner knows, caring for a horse isn’t a walk in the park at any time of year. As many will agree, spring horse care presents its own set of challenges.

Perhaps you have a good doer who seems to gain kilos with every bite of spring grass? Or you’re not sure how to help your winter grazing recover? Maybe you’re even feeling overwhelmed by all the post-winter detritus and know you’re in need of an urgent tack room clearout.

Fear not, friends. As a horse owner for more than 20 years – and with numerous H&H colleagues on tap who are more experienced than I – here is everything I have learned over the years to help get your season off to an oh-so-smooth start.

Spring horse care hacks and things to do this season

1. Manage routine changes slowly

Everyone knows any changes in a horse’s routine need to be made gradually, but it’s worth considering this in context so you can actually do it effectively.

For example, is your horse moving onto a new paddock that rested all winter? If so, turn him out on it for an hour or so on day one, and work up to a full day over a week to 10 days if possible. This will be best for his gut health as it allows the bacteria to adjust to an influx of nutritious grass without too much volume right from day one.

Or, perhaps you want to switch from stabling overnight to during the day? If you can make arrangements, start bringing him in for a few hours in the afternoon and leaving him out for longer into the evening. You might want to look into boredom busters and other ways to occupy stabled horses to help him acclimate. I really like these forage blocks for my gelding, or you could take a look at stable toys like these on Amazon.

It’s the same with your horse’s workload. If you’re wondering how to form a fitness plan for your horse, it’s best to build up slowly – especially if your horse has had a period of time completely off.

If you’re keen to get out competing, take a look at how Harry Meade gets horses fit.

2. Control grass intake and monitor weight

My gelding wintered well and my grass is relentless, so I’ve started weigh taping weekly.

If you’re wondering how to weigh a horse, a weigh tape isn’t the most accurate method, but it will give me an indication if his weight is trending up or down. And yes, I am hoping he slims.

One way I’m tackling his weight is with this grazing muzzle I found online. It’s not the cheapest, but I chose it because my horse is funny about things touching his nose and this muzzle isn’t as invasive as others.

He got used to it quickly, seems comfy in it and, by the look of things, finds it easy to use, so it’s a win! It was easy to fit, too, which was a bonus.

Grazing muzzles are also helpful for owners of horses with equine metabolic syndrome (EMS) or those prone to laminitis. A couple of rules of thumb with grazing muzzles:

Make sure you use it with a breakaway or field-safe headcollar. This will keep your horse safe if the muzzle gets caught on anything. Some muzzle brands sell accompanying headcollars separately.
Check your horse daily for rubs or sores where the muzzle touches his face.
Do not leave a muzzle on for more than around six to eight hours at a time.
Monitor your horse’s weight to ensure the muzzle is aiding weight loss, and if it is, that the loss is not too dramatic.

Weightape readings are not accurate, but can give an indicator as to how a horse’s weight fluctuates. (Image credit: Alamy / Susan Norwood)

3. Round up your winter gear

Doing a proper audit of everything you’ve been using will help you assess what needs cleaning, fixing or replacing. Check your clippers are clean and get them serviced now to avoid a panic in the autumn.

It’s also the perfect time to get your heavyweight turnout rugs and stable rugs sent off for washing and reproofing. Or, you might like to wash your horse’s rugs at home.

Gathering your gear might include a walk around the paddock for that lost overreach boot, so you could tie it in with checking your electric fencing for broken posts and other things amiss.

4. Check the status of your spring and summer kit

Do you remember what state you left your fly mask and fly rug in at the back end of last summer? Make sure they are clean and ready to go for this year.

What about your summer lotions and potions, like sun cream, fly sprays and no-rinse wash? Check what you have in stock and what’s expired, and get your order in now so you’re ahead of the game.

If you’re wondering what’s in my kit, I swear by this hoof moisturiser to stop my barefoot horse’s feet from cracking – it’s my ultimate spring horse care must-have that works amazingly all through summer too. I also have this Aniwell Filtabac cream on standby – it’s beloved by most of team H&H. You can get it on Amazon here.

5. Get your saddle checked

Horses frequently change shape in the winter due to alterations in diet and exercise level. Therefore, calling the saddler and getting your horse’s saddle fit signed off for spring is a must.

While you’re at it, review your spring horse care and routine appointments, setting reminders for booking them in. Teeth, physio, farrier, vaccinations and worm egg counts should all be on your list.

A well-fitting saddle is essential to mitigate discomfort and protect your horse’s back. (Image credit: Steve Bardens)

6. Sort your winter field maintenance

As web editor Carol Phillips told me recently, equestrians have roughly a 10-minute window where their fields are in that happy place between a quagmire and concrete to get them harrowed and/or rolled and bare patches seeded.

Okay, this might have been tongue-in-cheek, but she has a valid point. When the ground isn’t too wet or too dry (in other words, absolutely perfect for canter work) arrange to have areas that poached over winter restored to their former glory. Now is also the perfect time to lay grass mats to help prevent the cycle from repeating itself this winter.

I don’t clear droppings over from December to February to avoid the winter poo picking struggle, so I’ll be dealing with that and tackling the weeds. Now is the best time to do this if you have a field that won’t be grazed for several months. This means any parasite burden can be most effectively reduced.

7. Clean your grooming kit

I just did this and let me tell you, it was super satisfying. My brushes and grooming box were filthy following months of mud removal, and now they’re pristine.

Some people like to run their brushes through their dishwasher. If I did this it would likely end in divorce, and I also wouldn’t want to risk ruining my brushes (which are these Haas horsehair ones) or damaging the dishwasher. Potentially, it sounds to me like a very expensive way to clean brushes.

Instead, I waited for a warm sunny day. I used warm water, horse shampoo and this plastic brush to gently scrub the bristles of each brush.

I then rinsed them and left them to dry in the sun, and scrubbed out my grooming box too. Trust me, you’ll love having everything clean and ready to go.

Do you have any spring horse care hacks to share with fellow readers? Write to us at hhletters@futurenet.com, including your name, nearest town and county, for the chance to have them published in a future issue of Horse & Hound.

For unlimited access to advice on how best to care for your horse, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

Helpful advice for owners on how pre-existing conditions and exclusions affect your horse insurance

Bethany Stone — Thu, 26 Mar 2026 09:35:21 +0000

Horse insurance exclusions can be a bone of contention for many owners, so it is important to understand why exclusions are placed on some health conditions before you take out, renew or switch an equine insurance policy.

Typically exclusions are placed on pre-existing conditions that existed before your equine insurance policy started.

“SEIB places exclusions from the start of each policy period, which generally runs for 12 months,” says Andy Burnett, equestrian schemes underwriting specialist. “This means from policy activation, or from renewal thereafter.

“In either circumstance, the excluded conditions would be deemed pre-existing to that policy period.”

When taking out a new policy, you must always disclose pre-existing conditions.

“Be honest with your broker,” says Lawrence Gill. “Insurers are here to help and want to help, but we can’t pay out for pre-existing conditions.

“Insurance is here to protect against the unexpected. If we know what is pre-existing (and therefore more likely to recur) we can be clear about what we can and cannot cover from the outset.

“Insurers might review some conditions after a certain amount of time. It is worth discussing with your insurer if some time has passed since the injury or illness.”

Lawrence adds that trying to hide pre-existing conditions and then claiming for them constitutes fraud.

“We ask for a full veterinary history as part of the claim process and will investigate any discrepancies that arise,” Lawrence adds. “Claiming fraudulently means your insurer could cause the policy to be voided.”

What is an exclusion?

When it comes to horse insurance, pre-existing conditions are excluded from policies. But what does this mean?

Francis Martin, CEO of the Insurance Emporium, says: “To put it simply, an exclusion could be a specific condition, circumstance, item or type of loss that the policy does not cover due to an increased insurance risk.”

He adds that there are two main types of exclusions.

“General exclusions, set out in the policy wording, apply to all policies. You can find ours below the insurance table of benefits on our website.

“Meanwhile, specific exclusions apply to an individual policy. They usually exclude cover for a particular condition, risk, or circumstance identified during underwriting.”

Andy adds that exclusions provide clarity and transparency: “This means policyholders fully understand what their policy does and does not cover.

“SEIB works closely with veterinary advisers to ensure that exclusions are proportionate, fair and based on appropriate professional guidance.”

Equine insurance typically covers health conditions that arise for the first time during a period of insurance (often one year), then exclude it after that. (Image credit: Andrew Sydenham)

How do horse insurance exclusions work?

Before applying an exclusion on a horse insurance policy, insurers will determine which part(s) of a horse’s anatomy to exclude from the policy. Many insurers will provide cover for around a year following the onset of a condition or injury. However, you should always check the policy wording or contact your insurer for clarification if you are unsure.

Francis Martin explains the process at the Insurance Emporium: “When determining the correct exclusion to place, we consult our exclusion matrix. We created this after using the services of an independent veterinary consultant.

“For example, when presented with the increased risk of a tendon or ligament condition, we place the exclusion for the affected and opposing tendon or ligament.

“If a claim is submitted for an illness, injury or disease and the claim is accepted within the normal terms of your cover, the Insurance Emporium will continue to provide cover up to 365 days from the onset of the condition or up to the maximum amount recoverable, whichever comes first, irrespective of the date on the exclusion.”

Agria works differently to many other equine insurance providers as it does not place exclusions on conditions that develop during the period of insurance, as long as you renew your Agria lifetime policy each year, with no break in cover.

“This means if your horse develops a condition like kissing spines while insured with Agria, then this condition remains covered for treatment should they flare up again in future,” says underwriting manager Alexandra Gillam.

Agria does typically exclude any pre-existing conditions that have affected the horse prior to their lifetime policy being taken out, in the same way as other providers.

Are pre-existing conditions always excluded from horse insurance?

Broadly speaking, yes.

Francis Martin says: “You should disclose any pre-existing conditions, clinical signs or circumstances, whether you have claimed for them or not.

“This is so your insurer can accurately determine any specific increased risks.

“We would also encourage you to review your insurance cover and terms and conditions carefully, as not all insurers offer the same cover with the same general exclusions.”

Anthony Burnett says SEIB is able to reduce or remove exclusions in cases where the exclusions are not permanent.

“Whether an exclusion can be reduced or removed and to what extent depends on the nature of the exclusion and the circumstances surrounding why it was placed,” he adds.

Is it possible to remove horse insurance exclusions?

In some circumstances, yes. However, exclusion removal or amendment depends on the condition and the insurer.

Katie Jackman, UK underwriting assistant for Petcover, says: “Most of our exclusions allow the client to remove or reduce the exclusion. This will depend on the conditions, treatment and severity, but most can be reduced or removed.

“Our exclusions specifically state dates. Therefore, clients clearly understand when they come into effect, and if they are a reviewable or non-reviewable exclusion.

“If they are reviewable [giving the possiblity to remove or reduce them] we will include details on how this can be done.”

For unlimited access to advice on how best to care for your horse, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

How much does a horse cost a month? H&H does the maths so you don’t have to…

Georgia Guerin — Wed, 25 Mar 2026 13:50:04 +0000

When considering how much it costs to keep a horse, it’s important to realise that the ongoing care costs will go way beyond the initial outlay associated with buying a horse. These costs are continuous and should be realistically assessed before you decide to take on the responsibility for a horse of your own.

In my experience, once you’ve calculated what you believe to be a realistic budget, you should add on a buffer – prices always go up and there will undoubtedly be things you haven’t accounted for in your initial budget. I am now spending more than double what I originally budgeted for my horse’s monthly costs before I bought him 10 years ago – and I do everything I can to save money on horse costs. He doesn’t want for anything, but there are certainly no nice-to-have extras.

I’ll share the regular costs of keeping a horse, so that you can step into the wonderful world of horse ownership as prepared as possible for what you’re about to take on. Where the costs vary significantly, I’ll offer some considerations I wish I’d better understood before I bought my first horse. All prices quoted are approximate and based on prices at the time of publishing (March 2026) – spoiler alert: it’s a small fortune, but worth every penny.

I’ll cover the costs of:

Livery
Feed and forage
Bedding
Insurance
Farriery
Regular healthcare

Unless you have facilities at home, livery or field rent is an unavoidable cost. (Image credit: Andrew Sydenham)

Costs of livery

The costs of livery can vary wildly because there is a full spectrum of options from DIY grass livery (your horse lives in a field without a stable, and you look after it yourself) all the way up to full competition livery with all-singing-and-dancing facilities that includes training, competing, tack cleaning (you name it, they do it).

However, there are also variations depending on your location, similar to buying or renting a house. I moved from Berkshire to Nottinghamshire and got more facilities for my money, but there are parts of the country that are both far more expensive and cheaper than these.

Unfortunately, there are also major differences in livery pricing between lowest and highest prices for the same offering and similar facilities, which can make budgeting more difficult.

It’s hard to put a figure on it as costs vary so wildly, but according to the latest BETA survey (2023), owners spent an average of £257 per month on livery or £129 per month on grazing. Bear in mind, it’s possible to spend an awful lot more and costs will have risen since the survey due to the ever-increasing cost of living and raises to the minimum wage.

When choosing a livery yard, look at as many different yards in your local area as possible and work out what your priorities are – this will help you compare your options and weigh up what’s best. If you choose a DIY yard, don’t forget, if you’re on holiday or need assistance, you’ll need to pay someone to look after your horse, too, unless you can share the work with friends.

Unless you’re in the lucky position of being able to keep your horse at home, livery charges will be one of the largest regular monthly costs of owning a horse. And even if you can keep it at home, don’t be fooled into thinking it’s free.

Cost of feeding a horse

Similar to livery, the costs of feeding a horse are certainly not “one size fits all”. You might have a good-doer, which generally means your costs will be lower, but once you start adding things, such as a joint supplement, which they might need as they age, for example, the costs start to add up.

If you have a horse who struggles to hold weight or needs a specialist diet for any reason, then be prepared for much higher monthly costs. Similarly, feeding competition horses is usually more expensive.

The cost of forage can fluctuate with yield and availability. (Image credit: Emma Herrod Photography)

Remember, it’s not just what’s in the bucket that will cost you. Hay, haylage and other types of forage are the foundation of your horse’s diet and likely to account for much of the monthly expense. You can save money on hay by buying in bulk, for example, but I would suggest that you should be prepared to spend at least £50–60 per month on hay for an average sized horse, although again, this varies with location and quality.

The quality of your grazing and the amount of turnout your horse gets, will affect how much forage you need to feed. Despite my horse having 24/7 turnout year round, I still feed hay throughout the year as there is not enough grass – this suits me as he’s a good-doer and it means I can easily monitor his weight, but it would be very expensive to manage a horse that struggles to maintain weight in this way.

There are ways to save money on horse feed and budget wisely, but feed and forage are essential costs that you can’t really cut corners with to ensure your horse gets the nutrition he needs.

Cost of bedding

Stabled horses will need bedding and you may also want rubber stable mats as they make it possible to use less bedding, as well as providing a comfortable and non-slip surface. Straw is the cheapest type of horse bedding, but it’s not typically not suitable for horses with respiratory problems and some horses will eat it.

In the long term, rubber mats combined with a more expensive bedding, such as shavings or wood pellets, can prove more economical, but the initial investment is considerably more.

Some horses are particularly wet and dirty, which will inevitably mean you use more bedding. If you’re in a position to deep litter, then this could reduce your costs, although this needs to be carefully managed to avoid negative impacts on your horse’s health.

Be prepared to use a minimum of one bale of shavings a week, which would cost around £10 per bale (although this varies with quality and your location). Good quality rubber mats will cost around £40 each, and you’d typically need six for a 12x12ft stable.

Cost of insurance

Following legal cases that have ruled that owners can be held responsible for any damage caused by their horses, all horse owners should be insured for third-party/public liability. One way to do this is to become a BHS Gold Member at £105 a year, which provides up to £30million of cover.

Horse insurance to cover death, straying, theft, vets fees and more is not mandatory, but many horse owners opt for it for peace of mind as costs can quickly escalate. You may also wish to take out rider insurance or tack insurance, which will add to the premium. Insuring high-value horses is more expensive, as is insuring horses that compete, while you can get specialist policies to insure veteran horses, which should prevent you paying for aspects you don’t need.

The cost of insurance varies a lot depending on what exactly you want to cover, but there are ways to save money on horse insurance. I would suggest budgeting at least £100 per month for a ridden horse, but get quotes before you buy your horse – the same as you would if you were buying a car – and be prepared that they may well be higher.

Regular hoof care is a significant expense. (Image credit: Peter Nixon)

Costs of farriery

This is likely to be your largest cost after livery, feed and bedding is accounted for, especially if your horse is shod all round. Trimming a barefoot horse may cost around £30–40, while front shoes may cost £60–70 and a full set £90–100. If your horse needs remedial shoeing then it is likely to be a lot more.

Due to variation across the country, I would suggest using these numbers as a guide to compare the costs of different shoeing options. I know even within my local area, it’s possible to be paying up to £150 for a full set – and on average a horse is likely to need new shoes, or a trim, every four to six weeks.

Costs of regular healthcare

While you’ll inevitably encounter some vet fees over your horse’s lifetime, these are not regular occurrences. Instead, I’ll run through the costs you can expect to pay as part of the maintenance care for your horse.

Vaccinations

It’s recommended that your horse receives an annual equine flu vaccination, plus tetanus every other year, and the flu vaccination is mandatory if you’re competing. You can find more information about what’s required in our guide to equine vaccinations, but I would suggest putting aside £100 a year to cover the vaccinations and call-out fee.

Dentistry

Horses need a visit from an equine dental technician or vet who practices dentistry every six to 12 months, depending on their age and oral health. If your horse can be done without sedation and needs no additional treatment, you might be looking at around £50–60 a visit, but this will increase with sedation and any further treatment.

Physio

Regular maintenance sessions with a physical therapist can keep your horse moving freely and feeling their best. Costs will likely depend on the therapist’s qualifications as there are a wide range of therapies available, but you should be prepared to spend at least £50 a session. Your horse might only need seeing once every three months, but if your practitioner needs to work a specific issue this could be more frequent.

Saddle fitting

It’s recommended that your horse’s saddle is checked for fit at least every six months as their shape can change throughout the year. Depending on how the saddle fitter structures their costs and whether they include visit fees, this could cost anything from £40–100 depending on where you live, whether you’re part of a group visit, and whether you’re booked on an initial assessment or follow-up visit. Adjustments to your saddle are likely to be additional.

Worming

The most cost-effective worming programme is a “targeted” plan, which uses worm egg counts (around £10 per horse) and worming only if the results suggest it’s necessary. It’s recommended to perform a worm egg count test every 12 weeks, and a saliva test for tapeworm every six months.

Annual worming packs that include everything you need delivered to your door cost £6–10 per month, depending on your package.

Once you’ve accounted for general care costs, you need to factor in all the kit. (Image credit: Andrew Sydenham)

How much does it cost to keep a horse: total costs

The costs I’ve covered so far are simply the basics – further significant costs to be considered are tack, rugs (plus washing and repairs) and grooming products, before you even start on transport or training.

Below is an example of what the basics costs to keep a horse on DIY livery might be. Of course, for you some things may be less and others more, so do some research in your local area and add up the numbers.

Costs such as dentistry aren’t paid monthly, but I prefer to put the money aside each month so that when vaccinations and a dentist visit land in the same month as my farriery appointment, it’s not a problem because the cost is already accounted for. I also find this a clearer way to understand whether I can afford to take on a new ongoing expense.

Cost	Yearly	Monthly
Livery (based on DIY livery)	£2,400	£200
Feed	£720	£60
Hay	£720	£60
Bedding	£540	£45
Insurance	£1,200	£100
Farrier (based on a full set every six weeks)	£780	£65
Vaccinations	£100	£8
Dentist (based on six-monthly visits)	£100	£8
Physio (based on quarterly visits)	£200	£17
Saddle fitting (based on six-monthly visits)	£140	£12
Worm testing and egg counts (based on full yearly package)	£120	£10
Total	£7,020	£495

For unlimited access to advice on how best to care for your horse, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

More power for police under new law on dog attacks – but horse owners will ‘still have questions’

Lucy Elder — Wed, 25 Mar 2026 12:53:58 +0000

Stronger law on dog attacks on animals – including horses – is now in force, giving police tougher powers to deal with offenders.

H&H reported that the Dogs (Protection of Livestock) (Amendment) Bill had passed its final reading and would become law (news, 18 December). It came into effect on 18 March and has been welcomed, although some questions still remain for horse owners.

The maximum penalty for livestock worrying has increased from £1,000 to an unlimited fine. It also extends protection to incidents on roads and paths, recognising that attacks can happen when livestock is being moved.

Under certain circumstances, police can now seize and detain a dog, and enter premises to secure evidence or animal DNA.

A Defra spokesperson said Defra recognises that dog attacks can have horrific consequences and takes this issue very seriously, confirming to H&H that “livestock” includes horses.

The spokesperson added that if a horse is attacked by a dog while being ridden on a road or path, there may be sufficient evidence that the dog was dangerously out of control under the Dangerous Dogs Act 1991.

He said the Crown Prosecution Service (CPS) would assess whether to proceed with a prosecution under relevant legislation on a case-by-case basis, and that it remains a matter for the courts to ultimately decide whether, on the facts of the case, an offence has been committed.

World Horse Welfare head of public affairs Kim Ayling told H&H the charity is delighted the legislation is in place, the intention “clearly being to better protect livestock, including horses”.

“We know riders and dog owners have questions over how it will work in practice, especially around what enforcement action will be taken when it comes to chasing or causing horses distress, rather than when an out-of-control dog has attacked a horse or livestock,” she said.

“As with any new law, it will come down to how the court interprets each situation based on the facts available and how it chooses to apply the law.”

Hannah Bradley, partner at Aria Grace Law CIC, told H&H: “Horse owners will feel some additional protection by the specific inclusion of attacks on roads and paths in the legislation, which seems to open the door for attacks while hacking to be prosecuted more easily. However, the deterrent impact of it will only be felt if there is awareness in the dog-owning community about the more robust penalties.

“Dog attack cases are always fact-sensitive, and the retention of contemporaneous evidence such as video footage will always be helpful to secure a prosecution.

“It remains to be seen how charging decisions in relation to the new legislation will be made by the CPS, and ultimately how the courts will interpret and enforce the legislation.”

H&H also contacted the British Horse Society (BHS) and was told that BHS safety team manager Des Payne’s comments from December still stand.

In December, Mr Payne said that the BHS recognises the positive steps, but there are still “vital elements we feel need to be addressed”.

He said that although the BHS acknowledges this gives police greater powers, it only protects horses on agricultural or grazing land including “roads and paths” for movement.

“We welcome any opportunity to discuss the bill with the Defra minister, so that this can include all public spaces and clarification that this does include while being ridden or driven,” said Mr Payne, adding that the BHS is supportive of “any legal process that furthers the protection of horses”, but will continue to campaign for stricter regulations.

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What is public liability insurance, and why do horse owners need it?

Bethany Stone — Tue, 24 Mar 2026 09:05:16 +0000

Many equine insurance policies include public liability insurance for horses, which is an important backstop for horse owners.

Francis Martin, CEO of The Insurance Emporium, says public liability insurance is also referred to as third-party liability insurance. “They both cover your legal responsibilities to other people should your horse damage their property or cause them injury.”

These legal responsibilities include costs paid out to someone who makes an injury or damage claim against you, the cost of which can run into anything from hundreds to millions.

While many horse insurance products include public liability, you can also take out standalone or bolt-on policies for your horse or yourself. Lisa Ripley, head of customer operations at Harry Hall says: “You typically find this type of liability cover within horse insurance policies, and those provided by membership organisations.”

The cost of these policies varies depending on factors such as voluntary excess and limit of cover.

Lisa adds, “the limit of indemnity can vary with policies starting from £1m up to £30m.”

Do I need public liability insurance for my horse?

Public or third-party liability insurance for horses is not a legal requirement, but it does provide vital protection against damage or injury claims.

“A piece of legislation called the Animals Act 1971 applies strict liability to horse owners,” explains Lawrence Gill, executive director of KBIS. “This means that a claim against a horse owner can still be successful even if the owner didn’t do anything negligent.”

As with any insurance policy, it’s important to be clear on the wording and schedule. This will clearly describe the scope of your policy, and the conditions of cover.

“It is always worth checking your individual policy to ensure you have the right cover in place,” says Rosie Pope of SEIB’s equestrian department. “Do not assume automatic inclusion. Often, ‘off-the-shelf’ third-party liability policies can exclude equine activities.

“It is important to seek cover that is appropriate for the activities you carry out,” she adds. “Bear in mind there may be differences in cover for those who ride recreationally, compared to an equestrian business. For example, a riding school or freelance instructor would require a specific commercial policy.”

Some third-party policies cover others who handle your horse with your permission. (Image credit: Andrew Sydenham)

What does public liability insurance for horses cover?

Public liability insurance for horses covers their owner should a claim be brought against them for injury or damage to a third party. Some policies also extend to anyone consensually riding, handling or interacting with your horse.

“Even the best-trained horses can do something unexpected,” says Francis. “Imagine a plastic bag flapping in a bush causes your horse to spook and bump a passing car. You then have a litigious motorist with a horse-shaped dent in their car to deal with.

“Your public liability insurance covers the driver’s car repair claim against you.”

Lisa cites the example that your horse bolts and injures a pedestrian. “Claims can easily reach hundreds of thousands of pounds and might cover, for instance, the claimant’s injuries, loss of earnings, long-term rehabilitation and legal defence.”

What are the limits of cover?

“An obvious limitation to this cover is that the third party is a member of the public, not someone known to you,” explains Francis. “It excludes any claims from people with whom you have a contractual relationship, like a livery yard owner.”

Rosie Pope adds that there may be additional conditions to comply with. “For example, wearing a riding hat that is up to date with current regulations.

“Exclusions may also apply. For example, some policies may exclude stunt riding, racing, or similar activities.”

She continues to explain that third-party liability cover would not extend to any volunteers or employees who may assist you. “By law, you’d require separate employers’ liability cover in this instance.”

What insurance do I need to ride other people’s horses?

As discussed above, some owners’ policies might extend cover to those riding their horses with their consent. Be very clear on this before you get on if you have concerns.

However, as Lisa states: “If you ride loan, share, school, or hack out horses you don’t own, you can still be held liable for injuries you cause while in control of the horse and damage the horse causes to third parties while you are riding or handling. We strongly recommend having your own liability policy .”

If you are a freelancer, Lisa has this advice. “If you’re considering becoming a freelance groom or instructor, or you are a professional rider, you require specific public liability insurance that covers you for commercial activities.”

This is because they are providing paid services and may be held liable for:

injury to clients
damage to property
injury or damage caused by horses in their care

“In addition to public liability, freelancers often need care, custody and control [CCC] insurance for any horses they handle and professional indemnity cover if they provide advice or instruction.”

Specific horse rider insurance might work for you provided the policy includes public liability cover (many of them do) and relevant professional cover if required.

If you intend to ride someone else’s horse, check their third-party liability cover extends to you. (Image credit: Andrew Sydenham)

My horse is non-ridden, do I still need public liability insurance?

It’s worthwhile considering public liability insurance for horses out of or not yet in ridden work, says Francis.

“What if, one day, your horse escaped his paddock, got out on a road and caused an accident?”

It’s also wise to purchase a policy if others will be caring for your horse.

“Our public liability insurance is an optional benefit to our standard benefit,” Francis adds. “It not only covers your horse, but extends cover to anyone riding, handling, or interacting with your horse with your permission or consent if they have an accident of their own with a third party.”

Peace of mind

Lawrence Gill of KBIS explains that some owners find it hard to justify the cost of public liability insurance because, in most cases, they will never need to use it.

“It can feel to some like money thrown away,” he says. “Really, it’s the opposite. In the event of a claim against you, the insurer can sweep away financial burden.

“Third-party insurance gives policyholders the comfort to confidently go out and do the activities they want to. They know that if the worst does happen, they’re protected.”

For unlimited access to advice on how best to care for your horse, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

14 travel tips to ensure a smooth journey with your horse wherever you’re going

Georgia Guerin — Mon, 23 Mar 2026 11:40:57 +0000

Some horses travel more frequently throughout their life than others, but a bad journey can have serious consequences, so we’ve put together some tips for transporting horses to ensure both you and your horse have as stress-free a journey as possible.

Between the team at Horse & Hound, we have decades of experience transporting horses of our own, so we know what it’s like to be taking your first solo trip – these tips will help first-timers as well those who’ve been doing it a while.

Tips for transporting horses

1. Pack first, load after

Take the time to pack everything you need – both for the journey and in case of emergency – before you load your horse. This will ensure he doesn’t spend any more time standing on the box than he needs to. View our horse travel kit checklist.

2. Pack extras

Ensure that you carry extra hay and water for your horse, plus warm clothes and refreshments for you, just in case.

3. Always travel with your horse’s passport

Make sure your horse’s passport is on board as it’s illegal to transport your horse without it.

4. Allow plenty of time to load

Don’t rush as loading can be a stressful part of travelling for horses. Make sure you stay calm, too, and avoid getting frustrated if your horse doesn’t load first time.

If your horse is young or inexperienced, practise loading your horse into your vehicle before he is going to travel. Park the lorry or trailer next to a wall, if you can, to help channel him into the box. Also parking your lorry or trailer so your horse is walking towards their stable or field as they load can sometimes help. If parking on sloping ground, position your vehicle to minimise the steepness of the ramp.

Ensuring your horse has got the right travel kit on will help to protect him if he slips or trips while loading as well as when on the road. (Image credit: Andrew Sydenham)

5. Use protective kit

Use appropriate protective travel boots or bandages – a lot of damage can be done by hooves and legs becoming trapped under a partition or kicking at the sides, but make sure your horse is comfortable and confident wearing them before you try to load or travel him in them. Some horses are more confident wearing brushing boots or cross-country boots with over-reach boots all-round when travelling, so it’s worth seeing what your horse prefers.

Using one of the best tail guards or bandages will also protect the tail from being rubbed, but take care that they are fitted correctly so they don’t restrict bloodflow to the tail, nor slip down.

6. Use a suitable headcollar

Always use a well-fitting headcollar, with the lead rope tied using a quick-release knot to a thin piece of baler twine or a safety tie. This will allow quick and easy release in an emergency. A leather headcollar or other type of safety headcollar is recommended as these will break if the horse pulls back.

7. Don’t overdress your horse

When travelling, horses typically do not need the same thickness of rugs that they would standing in the stable. Horses don’t feel the cold as much as we do, but a travel rug may be appropriate for some horses.

Being too cool is preferable to too warm, however, especially given that horses expend energy while keeping their balance during transit. Horseboxes and trailers can often get quite warm with horses on board, even on winter days, so ensure good airflow by opening windows and roof vents as appropriate.

Always check that your breakdown cover is valid before travelling. (Image credit: Emma Voysey)

8. Never travel without breakdown cover

Take out emergency rescue cover that includes horses and store the membership card in your vehicle – and make sure you’re confident in what to do if you breakdown with a horse.

9. Ensure adequate ventilation

Allow good ventilation en route to prevent respiratory problems. Avoid using dusty hay or bedding, too.

10. Travel the heavier horse on the inside

If you’re travelling two horses in a front- or rear-facing trailer or horsebox, stand the heavier of the two on the side closest to the centre of the road (on the right if you’re in the UK). If you’re only traveling one horse, it is recommended that they stand on this side, too.

Tips for long journeys with horses

1. Plan frequent breaks

On long journeys of more than three hours, pull over and untie the horse so that he can lower his head and drain mucus from his airways. This helps decreases the risk of pneumonia or shipping fever.

Use these rest breaks to offer water and hay from the ground, again allowing the horse to stretch his head down. This will help prevent dehydration, which can trigger respiratory problems and increase the risk of colic.

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

2. Map vets along route

Work out where veterinary practices are along your route if you’re travelling out of your area. Mark them on a map and record their contact details.

3. Stable en route

Consider leaving earlier and stabling overnight if you can – a long, hot and bumpy ride will takes its toll and tire your horse. The quality of driving also effects the effort a horse must make to maintain balance, so drive smoothly and at reasonable speeds.

4. Be prepared

A big part of having a good journey is feeling confident you know what to do in an emergency. Read up on what to do if you breakdown with a horse on the motorway and ensure you’ve got all the phone numbers you need to hand.

For unlimited access to advice on how best to care for your horse, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

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Is ICSI in sport horse breeding a miracle tool or a misunderstood risk? H&H investigates

Oscar Williams — Sat, 21 Mar 2026 08:30:07 +0000

ICSI – intracytoplasmic sperm injection – has become routine in sport horse breeding. The technique allows foals to be produced long after a stallion’s death and from mares still competing at the highest level.

Yet unease persists. In some corners of the sport – and under plenty of social media posts – ICSI horses are still dismissed as “less robust” or “test tube horses”, with critics questioning whether they are as durable as those bred naturally.

More than two decades after the technology first appeared in horses, the question is no longer whether it works – but whether the concerns surrounding it are grounded in evidence.

ICSI involves fertilising a mare’s egg in the laboratory by injecting a single sperm directly into it before the resulting embryo is transferred to a recipient mare. For a full step-by-step guide to how the process works, see our explainer on ICSI in horse breeding.

Why do some breeders remain cautious about ICSI?

When ICSI entered equine reproduction in the late 1990s, there were no mature competition horses to assess and no long-term data to reassure sceptics. The technology also arrived alongside wider debates about assisted reproduction in humans, where science often advanced faster than public understanding.

More than two decades after ICSI first appeared in horses, the question is no longer whether it works – but whether the concerns surrounding it are grounded in evidence. Credits: Elli Birch/Boots and Hooves Photography (Image credit: creditUnknown)

“In the early years, there was a natural degree of caution,” says Lorna Wilson of Elite Stallions, whose team were the first to offer commercial ICSI services in the UK.

“It was new, and people didn’t fully understand the process. When that’s the case, assumptions can fill the gap.”

Some of the hesitation was instinctive rather than evidence-based. During a 2023 British Equine Veterinary Association debate, Professor Madeleine Campbell described the so-called “yuck factor” – a general unease around technologies perceived to interfere with nature.

Confusion with cloning – a separate and more invasive procedure linked to documented complications – has also contributed to lingering concern.

Over time, “we don’t yet know” in some quarters evolved into “there must be a problem”. Anecdote travels faster than data, and isolated disappointments – inevitable in any breeding programme – were sometimes attributed to conception method rather than genetics or management.

More than two decades later, ICSI is embedded in commercial sport horse breeding, with notable exceptions such as racing. The question now is not whether the technique works, but whether horses conceived this way perform differently from those bred naturally or via artificial insemination or embryo transfer.

So what does the evidence actually show?

Are ICSI horses less durable?

At present, there is no scientific evidence that ICSI horses are more fragile or less durable over a long career.

“Based on current scientific knowledge, there is no biologically plausible mechanism suggesting that ICSI would negatively impact musculoskeletal development, soundness or long-term athletic performance,” says Carlos Ramires Neto, vet and co-founder of assisted breeding specialists Genetech.

A peer-reviewed study in Reproduction, Fertility and Development compared American Quarter Horse foals produced by natural conception, embryo transfer and ICSI. Researchers found no meaningful differences in birthweight, growth measurements or placental function between the groups.

Early developmental data is similarly reassuring. A 2026 study in Theriogenology compared embryos produced via ICSI and conventional IVF and found no differences in gene activity between the two methods.

While embryo studies cannot predict how a horse will perform later in life, they offer no evidence that the fertilisation technique itself alters normal biological development.

What does the sports data show?

Assessing performance in the arena is more complex.

Studbooks do not routinely record conception method, making direct large-scale comparisons between ICSI and naturally conceived horses difficult. There are currently no comprehensive lifetime datasets comparing injury rates, career longevity or level achieved between horses of identical breeding conceived by different methods.

Studbooks do not routinely record the method of conception, making direct comparisons between ICSI and naturally conceived horses difficult. Credits: Agencja Fotograficzna Caro/Alamy Stock Photo (Image credit: creditUnknown)

That absence of formal data cuts both ways: there is no proof of disadvantage, but nor is there definitive, career-spanning proof of complete parity.

One useful lens is the offspring of long-deceased stallions, where frozen semen supplies are limited, and ICSI is frequently used to maximise it.

Take Chacco-Blue, ranked third among showjumping sires on the 2025 World Breeding Federation for Sport Horses list despite having died in 2012. Foals born many years after his death – particularly during the period when ICSI became more widely commercialised – are likely to include a significant proportion produced using the technique.

According to Hippomundo data published in 2025, 66.8% of Chacco-Blue’s offspring aged four and older are active in international sport. Of those aged eight and above, 68.6% have completed a 1.45m class or higher at least once.

A similar pattern is visible with stallions such as Cumano and Heartbreaker, whose recent progeny are progressing into international sport as expected for elite lines.

“What we’re seeing so far is comparable progression,” Lorna says. “There isn’t a pattern of them failing to progress.”

If ICSI carried a systemic disadvantage, one might expect a consistent drop-off at key transition points – from young horse classes into open sport, or from national to international level. So far, no such pattern has been demonstrated.

Genetics still matter most

Expanded access to genetics should not be confused with guaranteed success.

ICSI is most often used for high-value, deliberately planned breeding combinations. Elite mares, often still competing internationally, are paired with proven stallions. Embryos are frequently sold into professional production systems.

There is currently no scientific evidence that horses conceived this way are less durable or athletic than those bred naturally. (Image credit: Jon Stroud Media)

“The mare and stallion combinations tend to be of very high genetic value,” Lorna says. “And if someone has invested significantly in an embryo, they’re likely to invest in the training and management as well.”Carlos agrees: “Genetic quality and training environment remain fundamental determinants of performance. When analysing results, those factors must be considered alongside the reproductive technique.”In other words, while current data does not suggest that ICSI limits performance, it would be equally misleading to attribute success to the technique itself.The fundamentals – genetics, management and horsemanship – remain decisive.

Welfare concerns and the breeding process

Performance is only part of the debate. For some critics, the concern lies in the process itself.

Technically, ICSI is more invasive than artificial insemination or standard embryo transfer. Ovum pick-up involves collecting eggs from the ovaries using an ultrasound-guided needle while the mare is sedated.

ICSI is most often used for high-value, deliberately planned breeding combinations – but expanded access to genetics should not be confused with guaranteed success. Credits: Jon Stroud Media (Image credit: creditUnknown)

Although generally well tolerated in experienced hands, it is more physically involved than uterine flushing and carries a small risk of complications.

Lorna admits she once shared some hesitation.

“I always thought ovum pick-up sounded more invasive,” she says. “But when you look at the whole breeding cycle, it isn’t always that simple.”

Some embryo transfer programmes involve repeated hormonal synchronisation, frequent scanning and multiple uterine flushes. In certain mares, that level of repeated intervention can increase the risk of uterine irritation or inflammation.

By contrast, ICSI allows embryos to be frozen and transferred later, reducing the need to synchronise multiple recipient mares for each cycle.

As with any reproductive technique, the welfare debate is nuanced. Outcomes depend less on the headline method and more on case selection, frequency and clinical standards.

ICSI is a breeding tool – not a shortcut

Today, the balance of evidence suggests that ICSI changes access to bloodlines, not the biological foundations of the horse itself.

“There is no scientific evidence that ICSI-born horses are less athletic or less durable than naturally conceived horses,” Carlos says.

The technique does not alter inheritance, nor can it compensate for poor conformation, management or training. It is a reproductive tool – one that expands breeding options and preserves valuable genetics – but it does not rewrite the fundamentals of sport.

Ultimately, success in the arena still rests on the same variables it always has: breeding choices, horsemanship and opportunity – not the method of conception.

To stay up to date with all the breaking equestrian news throughout the year, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

Expert advice for anyone looking to buy a working hunter pony

Bethan Simons — Thu, 19 Mar 2026 12:27:59 +0000

If you or your child are looking for the added challenge of a course of fences to negotiate in the show ring, then the workers is the place for you. Our guide to buying a working hunter pony is a good place to start if you’re looking for a new pony to meet the challenge.

What makes a good working hunter pony?

Working hunter pony classes are one of the most popular sections within showing. Show schedules today offer a whole host of working hunter classes where both children and adults can enjoy competing their ponies over a course of rustic fences as well as showing off their way of going and conformation.

Each class is split into three phases, and marks are awarded for jumping, style, manners and way of going, conformation, type and freedom of action. The combination with the highest final score wins the class.

There are different levels of working hunter pony classes, ranging from unaffiliated through to novice, restricted, open and finally, national finals found at the major showing championships, Horse of the Year Show (HOYS), the Royal International (RIHS), and the London International Horse Show (LIHS).

Both the plaited and mountain and moorland (M&M) working hunter pony classes are split into height sections, some of the classes are also restricted according to rider age and competition level.

What to consider when buying working hunter pony

Before you begin looking at the ponies themselves, there are some considerations that you will need to make…

Plaited vs native working hunter ponies

If you are searching for a working hunter pony for your child, then one fundamental decision you need to make is whether to pursue a plaited or a mountain and moorland pony. There are pros and cons to both.

Plaited working hunter pony classes are age restricted, so your child will generally be competing against their peers. Also, if you purchase a part-bred pony, a sports pony or a British Riding Pony, for example, they will only be able to compete in the plaited ranks.

Noble Peppermint is one of the most successful nursery stakes and 133cm contenders of recent times. (Image credit: Peter Nixon)

Just like their plaited counterparts, M&M working hunter ponies jump in height but there are no age restrictions on M&M worker classes, aside from in tiny tots or junior classes. This means that unless your child is just starting out in the workers and is aiming for those classes, they will not have to move out of any one height due to their age.

The advantage of this is that your child can potentially stay on their pony much longer. So, for example, if you were to purchase a 133cm pony for your child of 11, provided they don’t outgrow it, they could stay on that pony until it retires.

Poppy Rowlands and M&M working hunter pony Delami Bravado hold their own against much older riders. (Image credit: Eli Birch/ Boots and Hooves Photography)

This is particularly advantageous to children who are smaller than average as they can enjoy extra years on a native, whereas peers on a plaited will have to move up through the sizes regardless of whether they are still small enough for their existing pony.

This does mean, however, that your child will have to compete with riders of all ages in the M&M working hunter pony ranks.

But if you purchase wisely, you could find yourself able to compete in both sections with a registered native pony that is capable of jumping the slightly bigger fence heights in the plaited sections.

Just remember that to compete in affiliated M&M working hunter pony classes, the pony must be fully registered with their respective native breed society and trimming isn’t allowed by all native breed societies. So even though, for example, the Fell pony you are considering is more than capable of jumping the heights, your chances of wrangling its mane into plaits and slicking down its feathers to look trimmed are very slim indeed!

The Welsh sections A, section B and section C, New Forests and Connemaras each have examples of their breeds currently successfully holding their own in both the plaited and M&M working hunter pony sections.

Connemara pony Woodfield Jovial Joker is an excellent example of one who has successfully competed in both plaited and native working hunter pony classes. (Image credit: Peter Nixon)

Age restrictions

Another of the most basic considerations you need to make is the age of your child. There are age restrictions on each of the plaited height classes as well as on native tiny tots and junior sections. There are also differences in the age restrictions for plaited finals at the RIHS and HOYS.

Make sure you read through the rules of the classes you are aiming to enter to ensure that they are going to be able to compete.

A word of caution: for parents new to showing and even to ponies, it may seem like a good idea to buy a pony from one of the bigger height sections even if your child is still relatively young in these classes and new to the competition. However, this means that they will be competing against children much older than them – or even young adults – and will be faced with much bigger fences. You’ll need to make an informed decision on whether or not your child can handle the stiffer end of the competition.

If you’re looking for a working hunter pony for yourself and are reading this guide, make sure that you check which classes you are eligible for. If you are over 18 years of age, then you are confined to either a 153cm or an intermediate in the plaited ranks, but M&M working hunter pony classes are generally open to adults, too, so you don’t need to worry about age restrictions for these classes.

Rider height and weight

As well as considering their age, it’s also sensible to consider your child’s height. The reality is, taller children might need to move up through the pony heights faster than their peers. Consider this before purchasing a pony for your child as you may find the pony outgrown before they’ve really hit their stride together.

As with their age, it may seem a good idea to launch your little 12-year-old into 153cm classes on the basis they can remain on the same pony for years, but if they are over-horsed, you could be creating a whole new problem to solve.

For taller children, they may find they have an extra year or two in a height bracket aboard a native pony, as they can be chunkier to take up long and growing legs.

Your own height and weight should be a consideration for you, too, when looking at ponies. The idea of smaller fences and a smaller pony to manage may be appealing, but you will feel more comfortable and the all-important picture will be much more attractive to judges if you are sensibly mounted.

I’m all for adults riding ponies if they wish to, but they should be on a pony of an appropriate size and build. It’s unfair to expect a pony to work properly over a course of fences if you are of an inappropriate weight ratio for the pony. Welfare guidance suggests that the rider should be no more than 20% of the pony’s weight.

Rider capability, personality and goals

Consider carefully your child’s capabilities and your aims for them with their prospective ride. If your child only has one season left in the class and is desperate to enter HOYS qualifiers, then buying a novice pony with very little mileage is not sensible. Neither is a novice a suitable purchase if your child is realistically not capable at this point in their own education of bringing on a green pony.

As well as your child’s capabilities, consider their personality and confidence levels, and try to purchase sensibly with these things in mind. If your child is nervous for example, they may be better suited to a pony who will quietly and steadily go about tackling the course, and it may be better to purchase a pony with some prior mileage who can help your child build confidence.

On the other hand, if your child is confident and ambitious, they may prefer a bolder jump and more forward ride. They may also be more mentally able to cope with the unknowns and the hurdles associated with bringing on a novice pony. Of course, this isn’t an exact science, and only you can really know what your child needs and what they can deal with.

If you’re buying a pony for yourself, you still need to consider your aims and realistically, what you are capable of. Can you honestly see yourself having the time and energy to bring on a green pony? Do you really want to jump the meatier HOYS or RIHS qualifiers and finals? If so, you’ll need to find a pony with a sufficient jump to cope with these fences, but if you think that competing at a lower level is more for you, then you may find more ponies to view that fit the bill and fit your budget.

Your personality is also important. What type of ride will you enjoy? A pony with more “go” than “whoa” or visa versa as they approach a fence? As an experienced adult, you may be able to school your pony to give you the kind of ride you enjoy. But be honest with yourself about your goals, capabilities and personality and you’re more likely to find a suitable partner.

Type and conformation

Samantha Darlington and her daughter Georgia Darlington have produced multiple top working hunter ponies. Georgia won the HOYS intermediate working hunter pony final in 2022 riding her own Jara before the pair stepped up successfully into horse ranks, finishing champion working hunter at HOYS in 2025. She was also champion M&M working hunter pony at HOYS in 2015 riding Welsh pony Tynwydd Good Friday. Georgia has also won the RIHS on each of the ponies. During her career Sam won HOYS and the RIHS over fences and was part of the England working hunter pony team.

“We always try to remember that a working hunter class is a showing class, so we’re looking for a type of animal that is good enough to show,” says Sam. “When we look at a pony and we ask ourselves if it would be good enough to show on the flat. For example, it must have correct conformation, move well and be straight.

“If I’m looking at a plaited pony then I would look at it as a show hunter pony. While it’s definitely harder to find these quality types today, once upon a time most riders would do both working hunter and show hunter classes with their ponies.”

2025 HOYS working hunter pony champion Sea Warrior – ridden by Izzy Mason – is an excellent example of a pony who can hold his own at the highest level in flat classes as well as in the workers. (Image credit: Peter Nixon)

“If I were looking for a native, it would similarly need to be a conformationally correct animal that is of a good type and stamp for its breed. If a pony hasn’t jumped it can be hard to tell if it is going to make a worker. You could take a look at the breeding to gauge if it will jump, though it’s not a guarantee.”

Blemishes and injuries

A true blemish, caused by a knock or an accident, is passable if everything else is good, Sam explains.

“I could overlook a splint or something similar if it didn’t impact soundness. A working hunter should have been jumped and hunted, so it’s unrealistic to expect their legs to be absolutely perfect.”

When it comes to prior injury, though, proceed with caution. Make sure that whatever has happened in their past is not likely to affect their future soundness and their ability to stand up to the kind of rigorous training and fitness needed for a successful season in the workers ring. If the pony is perfect in all other ways, discuss throughly with your vet what you can do to manage the condition and make an informed decision from there.

Where to find your next working hunter pony

Ponies are often sold via word of mouth, as Sam explains.

“It’s the best method in my opinion. Asking people who are out and about on the circuit and who have seen the pony around is the best way to gauge if it will do your job.”

Working hunter ponies for sale will be advertised at various times in the season on online platforms as well as on social media. Often, top ponies with consistent CVs will be available after HOYS, especially if the rider will be out of class for the next season.

“Social media and online sources make it easier to find out a pony’s history, and if we have pursued a pony billed as a schoolmaster we make sure to do extensive homework before a viewing; we make sure that it has done what is being claimed.

“I would definitely not recommend buying a pony without going to view it. Many ponies can sound ideal on paper but when you look at their jumping record they’re not quite what it seems, as in they might be consistently having poles down, or might have issues with certain obstacles, such as water trays.”

It’s also worth thinking outside the box. Look at adverts for Pony Club ponies or all-rounders. If the pony has good conformation and paces and is of a good type, it might make an excellent worker with the added benefit of having gained lots of mileage out and about enjoying other disciplines.

Viewing the pony

It’s always advisable to view a pony, even if you have asked around and gained some positive recommendations.

When assessing the ride of a working hunter pony, Georgia says: “I like a worker to ride forward and ‘pingy’. I like something to take me to a fence as I don’t like kicking. I would want a prospect worker to be bold and careful over a fence.”

It goes without saying that it’s a good idea to give the pony a jump when trying it. Think carefully about what you expect in a ride. If the pony you are viewing ticks all other boxes but gives a lesser ride, think about whether you can work with the pony to improve it.

If it rides well but isn’t your ideal partner in other ways, you’ll need to weigh up whether you can compromise on those things. For example, my sister’s former worker stopped twice when we tried him, even though he had previously jumped open tracks. The stops and his behaviour revealed that we were looking at a pony with some quirks, but ultimately we decided to buy him anyway – and though his personality would drive others stir crazy, we work with them where we can as we love him anyway.

If you’re unsure, genuine sellers will be happy for you to try a pony a second time. If you or your child have worked with a trainer for a while, they may be willing to accompany you to a viewing, especially if you are new to purchasing. And they may well be able to give valuable insight.

Ultimately, only you – and your child if it’s for them – will know if the pony you are viewing is the right one.

Some sellers will permit a trial period, though not all sellers wish to let their ponies go out on trial.

How much does a working hunter pony cost?

Budget is hugely personal and how much you can expect to pay is dependent on many different factors.

Every seller has a price in their mind, but a pony is only worth what someone is willing to pay. If you’re thinking of approaching the owners of a pony already proving itself on the circuit to ask to purchase the pony, expect to pay more.

An established pony in the current climate will be at least five figures.

If you don’t have the budget for your perfect pony, you need to decide whether you can wait to save up some more, or whether you can compromise and purchase, for example, a less established pony.

What happens when I’ve agreed on a sale?

When you have agreed on a sale, it is time to organise a pre-purchase vetting, something that is strongly recommended.

The vet will assess the pony with the specific job you want it for in mind, so it’s important to let the vet know prior to the vetting that they are intended as a working hunter pony.

If you tell the vet that you want the horse for the show ring, they should hopefully inform you of any blemishes or conformational faults that could impact its future career, even if they don’t impact its soundness or performance.

If the pony is for a child, then suitability and temperament should be taken into consideration by the vet.

Sam adds: “If you are spending a decent amount of money, I strongly recommend getting a vetting, ideally a five-stage vetting. An unbroken three-year-old could undergo a three-stage.”

It’s always advisable to vet prospective purchases to make sure that they are physically capable for the job intended. (Image credit: Andrew Sydenham)

Anything else?

Take your time. Just because you are keen to hit the ring or your child is suffering serious FOMO at the side of the ring, doesn’t mean that you should rush into any purchase. It’s best to be absolutely happy with your buy, even if that means exercising a little patience. The right pony is out there somewhere!

For more information, you can read H&H’s ultimate guide to buying a horse.

To stay up to date with all the breaking news from major shows throughout the year, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

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What is ICSI and how does it work in horse breeding?

Oscar Williams — Wed, 18 Mar 2026 13:59:54 +0000

Intracytoplasmic sperm injection (ICSI) is an assisted equine reproduction technique in which a single sperm is injected directly into a mare’s egg in the laboratory to produce an embryo.

Once considered a niche technology associated with human fertility treatments, ICSI is now increasingly common in sport horse breeding. The modern breeding technique allows breeders to produce embryos from valuable mares, maximise limited semen supplies and preserve genetics from stallions long after their death.

ICSI is used alongside ovum pick-up (OPU), a procedure in which eggs are collected from a mare’s ovaries. Together, these techniques form part of a process known as in-vitro embryo production (IVEP).

How does ICSI work in horses?

1. Egg collection (OPU)

Eggs are collected from the mare’s ovaries using an ultrasound-guided needle while the mare stands under sedation.

2. Fertilisation

In the laboratory, a single sperm is injected directly into each mature egg.

3. Embryo development

The fertilised egg develops into an embryo over around seven to 10 days.

4. Transfer or freezing

The embryo is transferred to a recipient mare to carry the pregnancy, or frozen and stored for future use.

5. Gestation

Although fertilisation occurs in the laboratory, the foal develops normally in the uterus of a mare.

What does ovum pick-up (OPU) involve?

The procedure is carried out with the mare standing under sedation. An internal ultrasound probe allows the vet to visualise the ovary and guide a needle into each follicle to collect the fluid and oocyte (egg).

Typically 15 to 20 follicles may be collected during a session. The eggs are then matured in the laboratory before fertilisation.

OPU is generally well tolerated by mares and can be repeated every three to four weeks, provided sufficient follicles develop.

The technique can be particularly useful for:

mares that cannot carry a pregnancy
older mares with reproductive challenges
competition mares that remain in work

Because eggs can be collected in a single procedure, disruption to training schedules is usually minimal.

Why is ICSI used in horse breeding?

ICSI has become increasingly popular because it allows breeders to:

maximise limited frozen semen supplies
breed from stallions that have died
produce embryos from mares still competing
breed from mares unable to carry a pregnancy

Because only a single sperm is needed for each egg, one straw of semen can be used many times.

More than two decades after the technique was first introduced in horses, there is currently no scientific evidence suggesting that ICSI-conceived foals develop differently from those conceived naturally.

What is the difference between ICSI and IVF?

ICSI is a specialised form of in-vitro fertilisation (IVF).

In conventional IVF, eggs and many sperm are placed together in a dish and fertilisation occurs naturally. In ICSI, however, a single sperm is injected directly into the egg.

Conventional IVF is not reliably successful in horses, which is why ICSI is used instead. Success rates vary depending on factors such as mare age, egg quality and semen quality, but laboratories commonly report embryo development rates of around 60 to 70%.

Is ICSI available in the UK?

ICSI was initially more widely available in North America and continental Europe, where specialist laboratories were established earlier.

In the UK, a number of veterinary reproduction centres now perform ovum pick-up, with eggs transported to specialist laboratories for fertilisation. Domestic laboratory capacity has expanded in recent years, making the technique increasingly accessible to UK breeders.

As a result, ICSI is now commonly used to expand access to valuable bloodlines and increase flexibility in breeding programmes.

Is ICSI safe for horses?

More than two decades after the technique was first used in horses, there is currently no scientific evidence suggesting that foals conceived through ICSI develop differently from those conceived naturally.

Can a competition mare produce a foal using ICSI?

Yes. Eggs can be collected from mares while they remain in training or competition. The embryo is then transferred to a recipient mare to carry the pregnancy.

Why is ICSI used instead of IVF in horses?

Conventional IVF does not work reliably in horses, so ICSI is used instead, with a single sperm injected directly into the egg.

Can semen from a dead stallion be used for ICSI?

Yes. Because only one sperm is needed per egg, ICSI allows breeders to maximise limited frozen semen supplies, including semen collected before a stallion’s death.

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Farmer’s fine after cattle trampled walker a reminder of horse owners’ footpath responsibilities

Becky Murray — Tue, 17 Mar 2026 16:23:15 +0000

A legal case involving a dog walker who was injured by cattle is a reminder to horse owners of their responsibilities when public footpaths lead through grazing fields.

A farmer was fined £5,260 having pleaded guilty to breaching the Health and Safety at Work Act in a prosecution by the Health and Safety Executive (HSE), when a dog walker was trampled by cattle on a public footpath.

Litigation solicitor Bridget Sanger of Clark Willmott LLP told H&H that although there is no HSE guidance for horses, the sample principles will apply and the onus is on the horse owner to assess the risk of turning out equines in areas accessed by the public.

“Landowners, including farmers and horse owners, have a legal duty to ensure the safety of anyone on their land, including walkers using public rights of way,” said Ms Sanger.

Equine lawyer Hannah Bradley, partner at Aria Grace Law CIC, told H&H that if a walker is injured by a horse on a public footpath, a claim for damages could be pursued. The court will apply a three-stage test in which the claimant must prove that the horse was likely to cause damage or if the horse caused damage, it was likely to be severe; that the damage related to a characteristic not normally found in horses and that the owner knew about the characteristic that caused the injury.

H&H asked Ms Bradley whether having warning signs at fields with public footpaths could be admitting liability and she said generally speaking, it is not possible to disclaim liability for personal injury.

“A sign that says something like ‘horse may bite’ could arguably create evidence that the owner had knowledge of a certain characteristic, but also it could be used to argue that the claimant assumed the risk,” she said.

Bulls over 10 months old cannot be kept in fields with public footpaths, but there is no restriction on stallions or colts – Ms Bradley said owners should keep in mind the knowledge test the court will apply.

“It is likely that certain behaviours which might cause injury could be said to be more prevalent – and known about – in a stallion or colt,” she said.

Ms Bradley added that owners should give consideration to public liability insurance for horses, taking into account their personal circumstances.

“It is imperative to make sure that the policy has sufficient coverage for the full possible loss caused by an injury caused by a horse. Claims relating to life-changing injuries can run into millions of pounds,” she said.

British Horse Society director of access Mark Weston reminded owners that if they keep horses in fields crossed by public rights of way they have a responsibility to help ensure the route remains safe for everyone.

“It’s vitally important to understand what type of right of way runs through your land to begin with – whether this is a footpath for pedestrian access only, or a bridleway or byway, or restricted byway or bridleway, which can mean cyclists and fellow equestrians can use the route. This helps you understand who can pass through your land and what you need to do to ensure they can do so safely,” he said.

“Owners have a responsibility to make sure that horses grazing in these fields are suitable to be around members of the public and not known to behave dangerously. Extra care should be taken when deciding which horses are turned out in these fields, and we strongly advise against keeping stallions in fields where equestrians have rights of way.

“It’s also important that gates, fencing and stiles along the route are well maintained so people can pass through safely and horses cannot escape if a gate is accidentally left open.”

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‘A welfare document first’: new equine euthanasia guidance for vets will help owners of insured horses

Eleanor Jones — Tue, 17 Mar 2026 13:21:30 +0000

The publication of revised British Equine Veterinary Association (BEVA) guidance for euthanasia of insured horses has been welcomed as an “important and much-needed step forward”.

The guidance was initially written in 1996, and updated in 2009, to set out the circumstances in which putting horses down would meet the requirements of all-risk mortality cover policies. Ian Beamish, who led the BEVA group working on the revision, said the aim was to clarify and ensure consistency, but also to take into account changes to attitudes on equine welfare and suffering in the last 17 years.

“The veterinary surgeon’s primary responsibility is undoubtedly to ensure the welfare of the horse, regardless of whether the horse is insured,” Mr Beamish said, echoing the statement in the introduction to the document. “This is a modernised version of the outdated 2009 guidelines, with a carefully revised list of conditions and their prognoses, updated language, and revised protocols on grounds for euthanasia.

“It is important to note that although vets may advise euthanasia, we may not advise on the insurance policy conditions; this is a matter for the insured and insurer to discuss.”

The guidelines cover protocols for definite, suspected or absent grounds for emergency euthanasia and also for chronic disease or pain in which there is negligible prospect of recovery.

BEVA euthanasia guidance: three scenarios

“Realistically, there are only three scenarios you can have,” Mr Beamish said.

“There’s the horse that justifies emergency euthanasia there and then to minimise its suffering. There are horses that do not require euthanasia; the owner is probably saying they want to euthanise the horse on financial grounds, normally. Then there are horses where you may think it justifies emergency euthanasia, but you’re not sure, or you may want to seek more evidence – a second opinion, or further investigation.

“We’ve really tried to make it, not quite black and white, because there is a section of grey, but at least a fairly uniform grey section that people can work through. So they can come to their conclusion and in hindsight, be able to look at how their decision-making pathway came about. And that’d be very clear for anyone that wants to scrutinise the decisions made.”

Mr Beamish covered the difficulty of chronic cases such as laminitis, adding that the nature of these conditions at least gives time to seek a second opinion or more information, and for conversations with insurers.

“What we all want to try to avoid is making an irreversible decision and then in hindsight, having that muddied water of, ‘Did my vet make the right decision? Should my horse not have been euthanised?’” he said. “And was or is there a payout from the insurers? Based on that, we’re all trying to make it as simple a process as possible, and to be able to be reassured that we’ve made the right decision.”

Making decisions under pressure

The guidance had input from equine insurers, and Mr Beamish stressed that it is a “welfare document, first and foremost”.

“It’s there to enable [BEVA] members to make decisions under pressure in what are invariably stressful times,” he said.

“Insurance considerations shouldn’t influence our decision-making. You’re trying to assess an animal based on the clinical evidence in front of you, based on that horse’s welfare and what should happen next. The fact that’s an insured or not insured animal shouldn’t affect how you go about making that decision.”

The guidance has been written as a resource for vets but BEVA expects it will be a “valuable reference document” for owners, insurers, trainers and event organisers “seeking to better understand potentially complex scenarios”.

SEIB Insurance Brokers equine claims adjuster Leanne Palmer told H&H: “The recently revised BEVA guidelines are an important and much-needed step forward.

“SEIB supports progress that promotes the welfare of the horse and the new guidelines provide a clear framework for the insurer, the veterinary surgeon and the owner to work together to make timely and well-informed decisions in high-stress situations.”

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5 tried and tested tips to clean muddy feather – and keep them sparkling

Bethany Stone — Mon, 16 Mar 2026 14:30:52 +0000

These quick and easy feather hacks have helped the team at H&H keep their horses spotless over the years

Whether you own a mountain and moorland, a traditional cob or a heavy, like many horse owners you spend a lot of time wondering how to keep your horse’s feather clean. It can seem like an uphill battle, as well as a thankless task. For one thing, you might spend half a day washing your horse’s legs with your best horse shampoo. Then, feather gleaming, you turn him out through a muddy gateway into a boggy field, and all your work is undone. What’s the point?

If this sounds like you, don’t stress. As someone plugged in to the Horse & Hound network, I can bring you the very best advice from the inside. And trust me, these owners, breeders, competitors and producers really know what they’re doing.

So, if you want to know the processes and products to use that will not only get horse feather clean but also keep them that way, read on.

Five steps for clean feather

1. Use purple shampoo on white feather

For that initial feather wash, make sure you opt for a powerful shampoo (like this one on Amazon). As products editor Franchesca Slack told me, purple and blue shampoos are a must for whitening. “They will remove brassy tones in the hair,” she says. “Make sure you use warm water to lift dirt better”.

Our former showing editor Alex Robinson tested the best whitening shampoos on the market and she picked out the Supreme Products Blue Shampoo as her favourite.

While it can be tempting to reach for washing up liquid, it’s not ideal for feather. “It cleans well but it dries the hair out,” says showing editor Bethan Simons.”

Use warm water to lift stains. (Image credit: Phillip Barker)

2. Don’t forget to condition

“We use hair masks for humans on the feather to keep them well-conditioned,” says Bethan. There are plenty of horse-specific conditioning shampoos on the market too, however, such as the Carr & Day & Martin Gallop, which comes recommended by deputy website editor Georgia Guerin.

3. Treat stains as they come up

Franchesca added that keeping on top of feather staining is important, but you don’t need to spend hours and hours bathing your horse. Instead, use one of the best dry shampoos to spot clean and remove stains from the legs. Fran particularly recommends this one from Absorbine and this one from Supreme Products.

“It’s tricky through the wetter months, but try to keep your horse out of the mud and wet as much as possible,” adds Bethan. “It damages the hair and can stop them having good cover over the hoof.

“Using turnout pens or the school for periods where you can will help,” she adds.

4. Prevent stains setting in

Keeping horse feather clean is much easier when you apply one of the best coat shine sprays or pig/showing oil, such as this oil product on Amazon that Bethan loves. “I get through loads of this!” she says.

It works by making the hair shaft smoother and, therefore, harder for mud to stick.

“In the summer especially, I apply it at night so that it soaks in and doesn’t contribute to any burning during the day,” adds Bethan. She also makes sure to apply to oil to dry legs.

“Through winter, I wash my horse’s legs off at night and oil them before turnout to stop mud sticking.”

Spot cleaning will help you keep on top of your horse’s feather. Photo: Findlay/Alamy (Image credit: creditUnknown)

5. Add a little touch-up

To achieve brilliant white legs, apply a little chalk – this will neutralise yellow areas and give a brilliant finish.

“It’s best to use a paste [like this one] rather than a powder; they’re easier to apply and I find them less wasteful,” Bethan advises. “Or, take a chalk product like this show preparation powder, mix it with a little water and make a paste yourself.”

How to keep horse feather clean overnight

I spent more than fifteen years keeping white legs and feather clean for shows. Here’s what I learned:

Stable your horse if possible on a deep, clean bed
Skip out as late as possible the night before your show to minimise the chance of poo stains
Bandage your horse’s legs – but ensure the legs themselves are washed, conditioned and dry beforehand. Bandaging damp legs increases risk of skin irritation and other skin problems, but can also cause any missed dirt at the root of the hair to be absorbed by the bandage, compromising the clean feather
Use clean bandages so there’s no risk of transferring dirt
If you plan to bandage the legs, avoid using too much oil or coat shine after washing them, as the bandages may slip. However, you can apply it above the bandages at the knees and hocks
If you can, keep the bandages on while travelling and fit travel boots over the top
Take a spot-cleaning kit with stain removers and chalk in my grooming bag for touch-ups before my classes

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