Owners can lack confidence when deciding whether to call the vet for equine wounds – and some are still reaching for outdated treatments, research has highlighted.

In a study published in Animals, researchers from the University of Nottingham, with support from the British Horse Society, aimed to understand owner-reported causes, management and outcomes of equine wounds. The work gathered data to expand on existing wound evidence, which has predominantly been expert reviews or referral hospital studies.

Owners submitted information for 219 horses with injuries. The most common reason for wounds was wire/fencing injuries and the most common place was the lower half of the hindlegs. Owners gave first aid in just over two-thirds of cases and three-quarters of horses needed veterinary attention – but owners were not always confident in deciding whether the wound needed the vet.

The study highlights “several areas where information and resources could support behaviour change in owners and improve wound outcomes”, including on planning for emergencies and the need for guidance on when to call the vet and giving first aid.

Co-author Sarah Freeman told H&H the most common emergency vets get called to, after colic, is wounds.

“Vets see one perspective, but there’s an awful lot that owners see and vets don’t – so this gives us a different picture of what’s going on in the horse population,” she said, adding that there is further work taking place on wounds due out later this year.

“Some of the findings weren’t surprising, like the most common place for wounds – but it was interesting to understand the things that owners are commonly doing. We can look at whether they fit with best practice and what information we can provide; that’s maybe small things like washing hands before giving first aid, or helping people decide when to get to the vet or how to bandage.”

Professor Freeman added that the study showed some owners are applying products, such as Sudocrem or purple and silver sprays, which are “not ideal in quite a number of wounds”.

“There’s been years and years of people using these products, but over time products have evolved or changed and the ingredients are not always clear,” she said, adding that some can prevent wounds being able to breathe or slow healing.

In the study, 80% of horses who had veterinary intervention were given antibiotics. H&H vet Karen Coumbe said this proportion was “somewhat surprising” and that when it comes to wound care, “effective cleaning and dressing” may mean antibiotics are unnecessary, avoiding “overuse of such precious medication”.

Ms Coumbe added that “the position of a wound is crucial”, rather than the size.

“Even if it is relatively large it might not be as bad as one might imagine, whereas a small deep puncture near a joint may be catastrophic, if it penetrates into a vital structure,” she said.

“If in doubt, always consult your vet – it is not difficult to send photographs or video to help obtain advice, although phone pictures can be misleading and it helps to see the injury to ensure all is well.

“If a horse seems lamer than expected or depressed, unwell or uncomfortable, always contact your vet.”

British Horse Society horse care and welfare education manager Emmeline Hannelly told H&H the research provides “valuable insight” and helps raise awareness of the importance of effective wound care.

“Wounds are a common problem and one that owners should be prepared for,” she said, adding that injuries can lead to infection and serious complications if they are not assessed and managed appropriately.

“Prompt assessment and treatment are important, and knowing when to seek veterinary advice can make a significant difference to the outcome.”

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Equine first-aid kit essentials: what you really need

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Every horse owner and stable yard should have an equine first-aid kit that contains the items most likely to be needed to treat a minor injury or deal with a major accident while waiting for your vet to arrive.

If you’re underprepared in the first-aid kit department, something fairly routine, such as the need to treat a minor wound or poultice a foot can become a much more stressful experience than it needs to be.

You can buy ready-made horse and rider first-aid kits (like this one on Amazon), but they usually need adding to to ensure you’ve got absolutely everything you need and it’s recommended that you store supplies in a secure box. So what are these must-have items in an equine first-aid kit?

Equine first-aid kit essentials

1. Clean bowl or bucket

2. Clean towel

3. Disposable gloves – get a large box like this one and have them handy to deal with any injury

4. Large roll of cotton wool (like this option from Robinson Healthcare)

5. Round-ended curved scissors (like these ones from Amazon) for trimming hair from wound edges

6. Antibacterial scrub, such as Hibiwash

7. Packs of sterile saline

8. Ready-to-use poultice, such as Animalintex or NaturalintX– these poultices are shaped for hooves but can also be used on wounds.

9. Wound gel

10. Non-stick dressings, such as Melolin, which come individually wrapped, for minor injuries

11. Gamgee (like this from Amazon) and large sharp scissors for cutting it to size

12. A selection of bandages including:

• Stretch cotton bandages (like these from Amazon)
• Adhesive bandages (like these)
• Elastic conforming self-adhesive bandages (which you might know better as vet wrap)
• Tubular bandage e.g. Tubigrip
• Synthetic orthopaedic bandage e.g. Soffban
• A set of stable bandages

13. A roll of electrical insulating tape approximately 2cm wide (like this one), which is handy for securing protective boots and bandages

14. A roll of wide tape, such as black PVC tape or silver duct tape

15. Petroleum jelly (like this Vaseline) for taking a horse’s temperature

16. Small pair of tweezers (like these, which also have a magnifier)

17. Digital thermometer (like this one designed specifically for animals)

18. Poultice boot (like this one, which is available in a range of sizes) or piece of thick clean plastic suitable to wrap around an injured hoof

19. A bright torch or head torch (like this one) for inspecting wounds in poor light

20. Additional items that are also useful to have to hand include:

• A length of baler twine
• Paper and pencil
• Rope halter
• Hoof pick
• Shoe removal kit i.e. buffer, hammer, pincers, pliers
• Wire cutters

Storing your first-aid kit

Items in the kit should be kept in a clean box with a secure lid (like this one on Amazon), preferably in a relatively dust-free area, such as a cupboard. The contents should be replaced as they are used or go out of date, so it is helpful to keep a list of what’s inside attached to the inside of the lid.

It is also a good idea to have a list of useful telephone numbers in the kit — such as your vet, a horse transporter you can call on 24/7 and your horse insurance company.

It’s useful to also keep an equine and human first-aid kit (like this complete kit) in your lorry or towing vehicle, so should your horse suffer an injury while away from home, you are able to deal with the situation promptly.

Prescription medicines

In certain circumstances, your vet may prescribe particular medicines that cannot be obtained over the counter for your first-aid kit. This may happen, for example, if your horse has a recurrent problem. If the vet feels confident in your ability to detect the early signs and that immediate treatment is beneficial, sufficient medication may be left with you so treatment can begin while a visit is being arranged. Medication should only be used for the horse for which it has been prescribed.

NB: Always ensure both you and your horses are up to date with vaccinations against tetanus, so there is not a panic over every tiny wound.

Equine first-aid courses

If you don’t feel confident in your equine first-aid knowledge or ability, there are a range of courses available to upskill yourself. They are usually aimed at first-time horse owners and those looking to improve their employability within the equine industry.

Some are in-person practical courses, while others are online and can be studied at your own pace. Some courses also provide a qualification upon completion, which is important if you’re doing this to further your career.

Here are a few examples of equine first-aid courses:

• Equine First Aid at Bishop Burton
• Equine First Aid at Writtle College
• Level 3 Award in Equine Emergency First Aid at National Horseracing College
• Level 3 Award in Equine First Aid via Oplex Careers

For unlimited access to advice on how best to care for your horse, including our vet library, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

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• This article has been edited and approved by Karen Coumbe MRCVS, H&H’s veterinary advisor since 1991.

Being able to apply a hoof poultice is a key part of good horse husbandry, so we caught up with Dr Stuart Thorne MRCVS to get some expert tips

When you’re trying to work out how to poultice a horse’s hoof, following an injury or a hoof abscess, quite often the most difficult thing is that you’re doing it on your own. The horse is tied up and you haven’t got enough hands to get everything together and you’re desperately trying to keep the foot clean too.

I’ve watched a client struggling to get a poultice on — they’d got the poultice in place and the cohesive bandage (eg: vet wrap) on top. They were struggling to get the hard-wearing 10cm-wide outer cloth tape (eg: Duck tape) on to protect the dressing. The horse was on a shavings bed and every time they dropped the tape it picked up all the bedding making it impossible to use.

Top tip number 1: before you begin, create a criss-cross square of cloth tape and tack it on to your stable door or wall so it’s within easy reach. Then once you have the poultice and bandage on, all you need to do is apply the whole square to the base of the hoof rather than struggling with a roll of tape.

When picking up the foot I get as close as possible to the horse. If the horse starts kicking and struggling, it’s harder when you’re further away. If you’re nice and close when a horse tries to kick, they have to get their leg past you so it gives you a warning. Also because you’re close you’ll get a push rather than a kick. When you’re further away you’re more exposed.

Top tip number 2: Try to get the leg high so you can rest it on your thigh and then you have both hands free.

A prepared poultice comes in the standard shape, which is a long strip that can be cut to fit, or the foot design, which is the one that I tend to use. With the majority of horses, once you’ve released an abscess, you put the poultice in cooling boiled water before applying.

Top tip number 3: The important thing about the poultice is to ensure you’ve got the shiny plastic side on the outside because that’s designed to keep the moisture in against the foot to help draw out the infection.

Top tip number 4: When you open the packaging of the cohesive bandage, if you do it really carefully you end up with a little plastic slipper. Once the poultice has been placed onto the foot, I then slide this plastic slipper over the top. That helps keep the moisture against the foot, which is where you want it. If you don’t do that the bandage often doesn’t stick very well because it’s really wet. Alternatively you could use a clean piece of plastic from a feed bag or carrier bag cut to size.

Top tip number 5: I tend to put a layer of cotton wool between the poultice and the vet wrap, or, as H&H’s veterinary advisor Karen Coumbe recommends, a disposable nappy is a good shape and design to help keep everything in place. “I find a disposable nappy in a 0-3month baby size fits snuggly on the average thoroughbred hoof,” says Karen.

There’a a natural crimp in the cohesive banadage and although you want to extend it slightly, I’m always worried when I see people pulling it really tight because you’ll end up with a tourniquet rather than a bandage. I tend to put it on relatively loosely and the bit I pull tight is just the last strand, because it then tends to stick better.

Top tip number 6: I use the cardboard roll at the end of the vetwrap to stick that final bit down tight — as long as that junction is tight it shouldn’t undo.

Running around the top of the coronary band where the hoof joins the leg is the really delicate vascular plexus. You can wrap as tight as you like onto the hoof wall, but if you spill over on to the coronary band you can get a really nasty tight compression which can cause a pressure injury, so take care.

Finally, grab the cloth tape criss-cross square you prepared earlier and place that over the sole of the hoof. You can tidy it up with one or two straps of tape over the top. It makes it so much easier than wrestling with the tape at the time.

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Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

In this week’s Vet Clinic, Kieran O’Brien MRCVS offers a first-aid refresher detailing the latest advice on wound treatment...

Horses usually sustain wounds from kicks or contact with fences, and treating horse wounds is something every owner should know how to do. A recent survey of 652 owners revealed that 40% of their horses had been injured in the preceding year, with nearly 90% of these injuries occurring out at grass.

Failure to spot a wound early or to recognise one that is potentially dangerous can affect both healing time and outcome, as can the use of inappropriate treatment from the start. Treating horse wounds correctly will promote fast and effective healing.

How does a wound heal

Within minutes of a wound occurring, the healing process begins. The first stage is the inflammatory phase, when blood clots in the wound. White blood cells migrate to it from surrounding tissues and blood vessels, releasing enzymes that “digest” damaged tissues and dead cells.

This phase lasts for a variable period and is prolonged by the presence of infection, trauma or foreign material. As inflammation is a key component of healing, suppressing it by administering anti-inflammatory drugs, such as phenylbutazone (commonly termed bute), may be ill-advised unless the horse is very lame.

The repair phase can only begin once the inflammatory phase is complete, typically within 12 hours of injury. Repair requires the formation of granulation tissue, a mixture of blood vessels, fibrous tissue-forming cells and other components, which expand to “bridge” the wound. This allows surface skin cells to migrate from the wound edges and over the granulation tissue.

During the final maturation stage, the tissue strengthens and contracts to reduce the overall size of the healed wound.

Various factors, such as excess movement, can interfere with healing. Failure to treat and clean a wound soon after injury, or to administer the full course of any antibiotics prescribed, may allow infection to develop or persist. Foreign material such as hair, soil, dead tissue or bone — even wound powder or spray — will also prevent healing.

Contrary to popular belief, a moist environment in the wound is best; studies have shown that “letting the air get to it” actually delays healing.

How to assess a horse’s wound

Wound assessment requires good light and the patient to be standing still, so a horse who is very distressed may first need veterinary sedation.

In many cases, injury assessment and decisions related to treating horse wounds are best left to a vet. As a rule, evaluation starts with the size and depth of the wound: those that penetrate the full thickness of the skin are particularly vulnerable to infection.

High-risk wounds include those close to important structures, such as a joint or tendon sheath; those involving damage to and exposure of underlying tissues, especially bone; wounds with large areas of skin loss; injury to the eye or head, and penetration of the chest or abdominal cavities.

Additional “red flags” include severe lameness, irrespective of the size of the wound, and evidence of a foreign body at the injury site or any discharge from it — particularly clear, yellow, viscous (thickened) fluid that could indicate joint penetration. Any of these signs require immediate veterinary treatment.

A kick wound is essentially caused by blunt trauma, so underneath an apparently small skin wound may be a much larger, bruised area that will act as a site for inflammation, swelling and bacterial multiplication. Kick wounds to the forearm or thigh regions typically become infected if not treated promptly, resulting in a swollen leg (cellulitis) and a lame horse within 48 hours.

While you wait for the vet to arrive, try to keep the horse quiet and still. Sweep any stable bedding aside if the wound is on a lower limb, or ideally stand the horse on a clean, hard surface.

The wound can be gently flushed clean with a hosepipe, but don’t use spray or powder before the vet has seen the injury. If the horse must be transported, for example, cover the cleaned wound with a sterile pad and cotton wool, followed by a support bandage.

A bleeding wound can be alarming, yet life-threatening haemorrhage is rare and only occurs if a major artery has been damaged. In most cases, bleeding ceases either spontaneously or when light pressure is applied for a short while.

Stem bleeding with a non-stick pad, such as Melolin, and a wad of cotton wool, holding this in place with a bandage or by hand if the wound is on the horse’s trunk. If blood seeps through, place another pad on top rather than removing the first.

A tourniquet should only be used in very rare cases where the pressure pad technique fails, since severe limitation of blood flow to the limb may cause damage. Encircle the limb with a bandage, just above the wound, before inserting a pen or a twig under the bandage and twisting it until blood stops flowing. Release the tourniquet after a maximum of 10 minutes to check if bleeding has stopped, using it for the shortest period possible.

And remember the importance of clean hands and materials, to lessen the risk of wound contamination.

Treating horse wounds: how to

A good rule of thumb is never to put anything into a wound you wouldn’t be willing to put into your own eye.

Many wound powders contain old-fashioned antiseptics that are a potential irritant, and most have an inert carrier powder that the horse’s system must eliminate from the wound before it will heal. Coloured aerosol sprays that contain antiseptics (or an antibiotic, if supplied by a vet) and water-soluble dye should be reserved for superficial grazes and not used if the full thickness of the skin has been breached.

The preferred topical treatment is hydrogel, a non-irritant, soluble gel. The gel keeps the wound moist and absorbs bacteria, damaged tissue and debris, and can be rinsed away and replaced at dressing changes.

The recent appearance of bacteria resistant to common antibiotics has renewed interest in the ancient practice of using honey as a topical wound treatment. While many kinds of honey have antibacterial properties, manuka honey contains several additional elements that promote healing.

A unique manuka factor (UMF) score of 15+ is preferred for equine wounds. It’s worth investing in medical-grade manuka, from a chemist, as it’s thought that the pasteurisation of manuka honeys sold in supermarkets affects their properties. Applying manuka to bandaged wounds for more than 12 days can promote the growth of excess granulation tissue, known as proud flesh, but it can be used on unbandaged wounds for longer periods.

To dress a wound, apply a sterile pad then an absorbent layer, such as cotton wool, and a clean bandage. The size, firmness and thickness of the dressing is determined by the amount of discharge from the wound and the necessity to immobilise the skin edges or adjacent structures such as joints. Change the dressing daily in the early stages, according to the amount of discharge, reducing to every three to five days or as your vet advises.

Never use a poultice. This will delay healing, promote proud flesh and it has no role in equine wound management.

How to clean a horse’s wound

Wash your hands and be aware of the need for absolute cleanliness with equipment and technique.

Carefully clip away any overhanging hair from around the wound. Then using water and a very clean bowl, gently wash the surrounding skin with surgical scrub, such as Hibiscrub, and cotton wool. Any antiseptic you use should be very dilute.

Flush the wound with saline solution or a hosepipe, working upwards from beneath the wound and only for as long as to leave it visibly clean. Rinse away any cleansing soap or antiseptic from the surrounding skin.

A final flush with sterile saline will restore the correct salt concentration in the depths of the wound.

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Owners have been asked to share details of how any wounds their horses have suffered were treated for a new research project.

The Equine Wound Project launched by the British Horse Society (BHS) and scientists from Nottingham University aims to gather new evidence on the best methods of treatment.

“Owners sometimes have to deal with extremely variable wounds and we want to hear from them no matter how small the wound may be,” said Emmeline Hannelly, the BHS’s welfare education manager.

She said knowing how best to treat a wound “can be confusing as some treatments may be detrimental to healing.”

The project aims to provide answers to crucial questions such as when to call a vet, how long different wounds take to heal, when a horse will return to normal work and what the site of the wound will look like when it has healed.

Horse owners are asked to share details and photos of wounds, give an assessment and record treatment processes and healing outcomes.

Information can be submitted via Googleforms to the University of Nottingham.

Researchers want to hear about any type of equine wound regardless of whether it has had any veterinary treatment.

“There is currently a lack of research into which factors may delay or help equine wounds to heal,” said Gemma Stanford, welfare director at the BHS.

She said there was “no clear information available for owners about common wounds” and the BHS is “delighted to be to supporting the University of Nottingham with this new wound research project.”

Professor Gary England, dean of Nottingham University’s veterinary school and one of the project’s supervisors, said the evidence collected will be used to “develop high-quality education resources.”

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The research is another “citizen science project” undertaken by the University following on from the previous colic research also done in collaboration with the BHS.

The closing date for the wound forms is 1 August 2019; to take part visit the BHS website.

For all the news, reports, interviews and featured, don’t miss H&H magazine, out every Thursday.

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A reminder to owners of the vital life-saving help they can give their horse while waiting for the vet has been highlighted at the British Horse Society (BHS) welfare conference.

Redwings’ senior veterinary surgeon Nicola Jarvis spoke about the simple things owners can do to improve a horse’s chances in several emergency situations while the vet is on their way.

“Know your horse,” stressed Ms Jarvis.

“From the moment your horse is in some form of distress, if you can prevent deterioration until the vet arrives, you’re going to do such an amazing thing.”

She added knowing the normal resting breathing rate of your own horse, his heart rate, the colour of his gums and — if safe to take — his temperature is very useful information to be able to tell your vet.

“It is about being able to spot that subtle thing that is still a rip-roaring emergency,” she said.

Ms Jarvis added that your own safety is paramount and advised anyone dealing with an emergency to “hit the pause button” first to make sure they are not taking unnecessary risks.

“A distressed or injured horse will be unpredictable,” she said.

“If you are dealing with a collapsed or seizuring horse, in that moment that horse will not know you — he will not mean to kick you and break your leg, he doesn’t know what he is doing.

“I need you to treat your horse as a strange horse you have never met before — your only safe area is along that horse’s back.

“Before you help your horse, you need a hat on, you get a pair of handling gloves and you get lunge lines so you can be further away. Get a runner to be on the phone to the vet.”

She said for a horse having a seizure “peace and quiet” is essential and warned not to encourage them to stand prematurely.

Bales can be used to support him if he is trying to sit up of his own accord and making a soft non-slippery surface with shavings can help if he is trying to stand on his own.

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Among the other areas Ms Jarvis covered were:

Atypical myopathy

“Act quickly,” she said, adding that the horse and any others should be brought in off the field as soon as possible.

“The only treatment you can do is supportive, but your vet can do so much more with a horse who is still standing.”

Trapped horse

“Safety first — they will try initially to free themselves,” said Ms Jarvis.

“When they discover they can’t, some stop and even eat. That changes rapidly the second they sense freedom.

“Hit the pause button — get the hat, get the gloves, get the lunge lines.”

Colic

Ms Jarvis recommended that once you have called the vet, have buckets of warm water ready and hitch up the trailer or check the horsebox starts so you have one less job to do should the horse need to be taken in.

She added that while a gentle walk is fine, do not exhaust the horse, who should be allowed to go down if the area he is in “is safe to do so”.

Non-weightbearing lame

“If there is any abnormal movement, do not move the horse — any movement can make it worse,” she said.

She added if there is a foreign object obviously sticking out of a limb or foot, do not remove it where possible, but pad the surrounding area so they do not push it in further.

“Bandaging the supporting limb is something practical you can do,” she said.

Don’t miss next week’s issue of Horse & Hound — out Thursday, 28 September — for more from the BHS welfare conference

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

National pet charity Blue Cross has highlighted horse health care with some essential first aid tips for owners

1. Invest in a good first aid kit

Make sure you have a good equine first aid kit in an easily accessible place on the yard and when you travel and that it includes your vet’s emergency numbers.

2. Take first aid action fast

Take immediate action when an injury is discovered, to prevent the condition getting worse. Call the veterinary surgeon and act on the advice given.

3. Assess wounds carefully

Type and location of a wound, and the manner in which it was caused, can affect its severity and treatment. Even the most harmless looking wounds can be life-threatening if, for example, a joint or tendon sheath has been penetrated. It is advisable to call your vet to investigate how serious a wound might be.

4. Stem bleeding

Apply pressure to the area and call the vet. Treat wounds according to veterinary advice. All treatments should be carried out with the aim of stopping bleeding, cleansing and disinfecting the wound and promoting healing.

5. Bandage with caution

Bandages should be applied over padding, with an even pressure used throughout, to avoid damaging the leg as they can cause additional pressure sores if too tight. There should be no wrinkles in either the bandage or the padding.

6. Know how to take your horse’s pulse

A horse’s resting pulse rate is 30 to 40 heartbeats per minute. It will increase with exercise and excitement, but can also increase when the horse has pain or a fever. Check the pulse at the point where the facial artery passes under the lower jaw. When the artery has been located, apply light pressure with the flat of two or three fingers. Count the pulses over 15 seconds and multiply by four to obtain the pulse rate per minute.

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7. Be familiar with taking your horse’s temperature

Recognise when your horse’s temperature is raised; a horse’s normal temperature is 37.5-38.5°C. Take care when checking your horses temperature with a rectal thermometer, this can be dangerous as you could get kicked.

8. Recognise your horse’s respiratory rate

A horse’s resting respiratory rate is 8-15 breaths per minute but it will increase with exercise and excitement. To check it stand either at your horse’s side and watch his ribcage rise and fall or watch his nostrils flare with each breath.

9. Know how to check the digital pulse

Being familiar with your horse’s normal digital pulse will help you identify signs of pain or inflammation in the foot, including laminitis. A stronger and more easily felt pulse may indicate a problem. Run your fingers gently across the back of the pastern half way between the fetlock and the coronary band. Apply light pressure until you feel a slight groove above the bulb of the heel. Gently feel for a slight pulse but don’t press too hard or you will stop the blood vessel.

10. Recognise the signs of lameness

Including an increased digital pulse. This can vary from slight stiffness to serious pain. If you know the cause of lameness do tell your vet, if not, do call the vet for advice.

11. Be aware of the signs of colic

The term is used to describe abdominal pain – it can indicate a problem with the gut or other organs in the abdomen. Early detection of colic will improve the chances of a good recovery. Be aware of restlessness and pawing at the ground, sweating and increased breathing rate, elevated pulse rate, eating less or reduced droppings, irritated kicking to the stomach, stretching as if to urinate, rolling or attempting to roll. Colic should always be treated as an emergency.

12. Know your horse and know what’s normal

This will allow you to identify any abnormal behaviour such as not eating, excessive lying down/not moving or not interacting as normal. If you spot abnormal behaviour, investigate and call your vet for advice.

For all the latest veterinary advice, don’t miss Horse & Hound magazine, out every Thursday

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Competitors at last Saturday’s British Show Pony Society (BSPS) Area 6 show in Solihull have spoken of their anger that first-aiders took too long to attend pony producer Samantha Roberts when she broke her leg.

A Welsh section C, ridden by last week’s H&H cover star Sam, slipped and fell in the rainy conditions, crushing her leg.

Gill Kapadia, H&H reporter at the show, said: “She lay on the ground for 20 minutes while officials repeatedly tannoyed for first aid.”

Though a paramedic was eventually summoned by a 999 call, Sam spent more than an hour lying on the ground in the pouring rain before an ambulance arrived.

BSPS area chairman Mary Allison said: “The response time was not good and I admit that. But the first-aid service, Keith Sharmen First Aid, we’d booked hadn’t turned up.

“The only way we could go ahead with the show was to have cover from a nurse whose child was competing.”

But Mrs Allison said the nurse was walking someone else’s dog at the time of the accident.

Sam was eventually taken to Warwick hospital and underwent surgery on Sunday for a broken tibia and fibula, which had been crushed in seven places by the fall.

Sam’s mother, Suzi Roberts, told H&H her daughter is unlikely to be discharged from hospital until the end of this week.

“No end of people said to me afterwards that they were shocked at how long it took,” she said.

Competitors had paid £2 each with their entry for first-aid cover — including those who had entered on the day of the show.

One top show pony producer told H&H: “It’s absolutely disgusting — we pay our money for first aid and it took too long to arrive.”

Sam Darlington fell off earlier in the day when her pony slipped in the collecting ring.

“A few ponies went down — the weather had made the conditions appalling. I was lucky to have been thrown clear,” she said. “We all paid for first aid and expected that service to be provided.”

But producer Debbie Thomas, who was watching the class and ran to help Sam, remained philosophical.

“These things happen and it was a suspected broken leg — an emergency would have been chest pains,” she said. “It always seems to take forever when an accident happens, but organisers did all they could to keep her comfortable.”

Mrs Allison said the money raised for first aid would be donated to the local air ambulance.

This article was first published in Horse & Hound (3 June, ’10)

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

Riding is a high-risk sport and if you are working with horses, at some point, you may find yourself at the scene of an accident where your actions could save someone’s life. Those who have been involved in an accident agree that even basic first aid training can give you the confidence to cope.

“I’d done Red Cross first aid classes,” explains Penny Broome, who events two horses. “But in a real-life situation it’s hard not to panic.”

Penny was driving down a lane one day behind a lady riding one horse and leading another.

“The horse she was on started bucking, which spooked the other one, and in the chaos she fell on to the road and the horses galloped off, ” explained Penny. “I immediately put into action what I had been taught. She had a head injury and was unconscious. I checked she was still breathing, but she was gurgling blood, so I carefully turned her on her side to stop her choking. I left her riding hat in place because I remembered that removing it could have killed her.

“I called the emergency services on my mobile and, meanwhile, a vet, who happened to be passing, pulled up behind me. He provided rugs to keep the lady warm. It was also a comfort to have someone else there to help until the ambulance arrived.”

Penny’s actions saved the lady’s life. Three months later, after recovering from a blood clot, she phoned to thank Penny for her help.

Livery yard manager Lizzie Heaton was less prepared for an accident, having had no first aid training. When she discovered one of her livery clients lying in the field with a broken leg — having fallen off when schooling over jumps — she panicked.

“I didn’t know where to start. I saw the lady struggling to sit up and a loose horse careering round the field. I shouted to the lady but she was ominously quiet, so I knew she should be my priority. But the horse was also posing a danger.”

Luckily the yard owner was within earshot and called an ambulance before dealing with the loose horse, leaving Lizzie to look after the stricken rider.

“I couldn’t think straight and needed another person to take charge. The lady was in considerable pain but conscious and talking. I was unsure whether to move her from the damp ground. I kept her talking and warm but I just felt helpless. I’ve never been so happy to see an ambulance. The yard owner paid for me to go on a first aid course after that.”

Emergency action plan

The purpose of first aid is to maintain life until professional help arrives. Richard Craddock from Skillbase Training Ltd provides these rules to remember at the scene of a serious accident:

• D=DANGER. Check for danger, make sure it is safe for you to give help. If it is not safe or you cannot safely remove danger, stay back and wait for expert help
• R=RESPONSE. Check the casualty is responsive, shout their name and gently tap their shoulders. If the casualty is not responding shout for help
• A=AIRWAY. If the casualty is not responsive, check for a clear airway. Vomit or an embedded object may be restricting the person’s breathing and you may have to put the patient in the recovery position. Be careful if you have to turn the rider over to do so, make sure the rider’s neck and back are kept in line as you do
• B=BREATHING. If the casualty is not breathing, call an ambulance. Give two effective rescue breaths only if you have been trained to do so
• C=CIRCULATION. Look, listen and feel for any normal breathing, coughing, movement or signs of life. If there are no signs of circulation, commence CPR if trained to do so

Tips for riding accidents

• If the chinstrap or body protector is restricting breathing, then undo or slacken them, but do not remove them
• If the casualty is conscious, stop them from moving until they have been properly checked. Steady their head and neck to avoid any movement
• If the casualty is unconscious, try to maintain a clear airway
• Always call an ambulance if the rider was unconscious at any time
• Talk to the casualty calmly and try to keep them relaxed
• Inform the police if there are loose horses on the road
• Do not allow the casualty to remount if they were unconscious or concussed
• Do not give any first aid for which you have not been trained
• Do not rely on your own opinion, if you suspect illness or injury, always seek professional medical advice
• Never use a tourniquet to try to stop a casualty bleeding – it may cause tissue damage or gangrene
• Do not remove any embedded objects from a wound – it may be stemming bleeding and cause further damage
• For a casualty with any suspected broken bones, try to keep the injury still and the patient warm until medical help arrives

Join NAGS

This NAGS/careers feature was first published in Horse & Hound. NAGS membership is available to all bona fide grooms and students. Benefits include Horse & Hound subscription at £1 per copy and eligibility for NAGS-only competitions and offers. For a membership form (tel: 020 7261 6993) or e-mail: nags@ipcmedia.com

One of the most common problems encountered in an emergency situation is a wound: the nature of the beast means horses tend to injure themselves, either by kicking each other or somehow colliding with solid objects. Certain horses are also injury prone and seem to hurt themselves however careful you are.

Although wounds have not changed, first-aid treatment has improved. Relatively new water-soluble wound gels have replaced traditional wound powders and the various coloured sprays. Originally designed for human burns patients, these gels are also very useful in horses.

Wound hydrogels can be applied to the area of damage, helping to keep it clean and moist. It is thought hydrogels reduce the number of bacteria in the wound and can speed healing. They are a useful addition to any first-aid kit and a safe and satisfactory answer to the question: “What shall I put on a wound?”

There are various such products on the market, including Derma-gel, Vetalintex, Intrasite gel and Nugel, all of which are useful to apply to open wounds.

The healing of a wound is influenced by the way it is managed straight after an accident occurs, so your immediate action is important and should include the following:

• If possible, move the horse to a safe place so that it is not likely to injure itself further or cause injury to others
• Control any bleeding, usually by applying pressure to the wound
• Assess the injury and call the vet if necessary
• Protect the wound from contamination and further injury. Cover the wound where possible to protect it. It is important to remember that raw tissues are exposed and will be painful
• Assess whether the horse is shocked or just very sore. It helps to check how it can walk and whether it is lamer than one would expect
• Clean the wound
• Prevent or control infection
• Prevent or reduce swelling

Another essential first-aid rule is that contamination and infection prevents wound healing. If infection penetrates vital structures such as joints or tendon sheaths, a horse may be permanently crippled. Hence it is vital to check the position, depth and severity of any wound carefully. To do this properly, you must clean the wound, so you can see what is involved, provided this can be done without making it bleed further. Cold hosing can be very effective here.

Always contact your vet if:

• Any wound is bleeding profusely
• The horse is very lame, even if the wound itself is small
• Any wound is more than a couple of inches long and has gone right through the skin, so that it gapes open and may need to be stitched
• There is any suspicion of a foreign body in the wound
• There is any suspicion that a vital structure such as a joint may be involved
• The horse has NOT had an anti-tetanus vaccination

If you think a wound may need to be sutured (stitched or stapled), you should consult your vet as soon as possible, since a wound will heal more effectively if it is sutured while still fresh. This does not mean your vet has to attend instantly, as there is a 6-8hr optimum period for wound repair.

A wound may need to be sutured if:

• The edges are gaping apart, leaving a large gap for dirt to enter
• It is very large or deep
• It is in an awkward place that will scar

In most cases, deep punctures, injuries with very swollen or crushed wound edges or severely contaminated or infected wounds will not be suitable for suturing, nor will wounds that are more than 8hr old. Your vet will be able to advise you what is best for any particular wound. Many wounds that look appalling at first inspection will repair very well, given time and proper care.

Another innovation is the use of surgical skin staples, which are now often used instead of stitching for certain types of skin wounds. They can be inserted very quickly and may be ideal when a horse does not want to stand still. Staples do not work well for jagged injuries or when the wound edges are under a lot of tension, but they are often a neat and efficient way to repair clean cuts.

Large wounds often do very well, whereas small puncture wounds are frequently far more serious, since they may penetrate vital structures, introducing crippling infection.

• This veterinary focus formed part of a larger veterinary feature first published in Horse & Hound (19 January, ’06)

A foreign body stuck in a horse’s foot is a common emergency that is not always taken as seriously as it should be. Although many of these wounds are superficial and respond well to first aid treatment, a deep puncture wound can cripple a horse.

As the hoof is hard and relatively tough, a puncture wound in this area will have been caused by something sharp, and potentially harmful, that is likely to have damaged the tissue.

A nail is often to blame for puncture wounds and may be pushed deep inside the foot as the horse stands on it. If you find a nail in your horse’s foot, it is critical to note:

• Where the nail penetrated the foot
• The angle at which it went in
• How deep in it went – in other words, the length of nail within the foot.When to remove a foreign bodyIn general, it is sensible to leave foreign bodies where they are wedged until you have professional help to remove them – it is important that items do not break off as you work them out. A nail in the foot is the one exception to this rule, as a horse may push the nail in further if it tries to stand on the limb.If a nail is removed, it is recommended to mark the point at which it entered the horse’s foot. However, if the horse is so lame that he is not weight bearing at all, it is reasonable to leave the nail where it is and contact your vet urgently.You need to note where the nail entered the foot, because the deeper it goes, the more dangerous it is – particularly if it pierces the middle third of the horse’s foot, where several vital structures are located (see diagram, below). These include:
• The navicular bone and its associated structures;
• The deep digital flexor tendon and its sheath; and
• The coffin joint.If you suspect that a foreign body may have pierced this danger zone, contact your vet immediately.Preventing infectionWounds that penetrate the toe of a horse’s foot may infect or break the pedal bone, while wounds in the heel tend to produce infection in the area of the puncture.Gently scrubbing the site with a clean nailbrush and antiseptic such as pevidine or chlorhexidine (Hibiscrub), then applying a clean dressing or poultice, can be effective first aid for a superficial puncture. Dilute hydrogen peroxide is also useful to clean out minor wounds.The foot needs to be kept clean and dressed until the puncture has sealed. This will probably take just a few days, providing there are no complications such as infection.Assessing the depth of damageIf a dirty foreign body, such as a nail, reaches any of the vital structures within the foot, poulticing is unlikely to be sufficient.Instead, your vet may recommend taking an X-ray of the area, using a probe at the site of the puncture, to assess how deeply the foreign body has penetrated the tissues. Sometimes, contrast material is used to highlight the site of the injury and surgery may be needed to drain infection and clean out the wound.If vital structures such as the navicular bursa have been penetrated, the chance of a horse returning to soundness is reduced.Bear in mind that punctures to the foot can be misleading – once a nail is removed, the injury can appear so much better that treatment is delayed until it is too late. In such cases, pain is not always a clear indicator that something serious is wrong, so if you are faced with a nail puncture that goes more than two centimetres into the foot, do not delay contacting your vet.Sometimes, lameness may appear a few days after a superficial puncture as a result of infection, which can cause a foot abscess or pus in the foot – this will need to be drained by your vet or farrier.Furthermore, tetanus is a significant risk with any foot puncture and is one of the many reasons why all horses should be vaccinated as a preventative measure.HORSE tip: If you do not have a poultice to hand, a baby’s disposable nappy is ideal as an emergency dressing, to protect a puncture site from dirt and damage and to reduce the chances of infection developing.For practical help on what to do in an emergency, invest in a copy of First Aid for Horses by Karen Coumbe (JA Allen, £19.99).
• This article first appeared in HORSE June issue

Everyone involved with horses should have basic knowledge of first aid because the care a casualty receives in the first few minutes after an accident is vital and will affect their chances of recovery.

In the event of an accident in the field, consider first whether it is safe to approach the casualty. Once it is safe, check if they are conscious by speaking to them and gently shaking their shoulder. If the casualty doesn’t respond or is having difficulty breathing, shout for help and call 999 — it is better to be safe than sorry.

Any rider who has fallen may have sustained spinal injuries and should be treated with great care to prevent any worsening of the injury. However, failure to get air into the body will kill someone faster than anything else, so the decision of whether to move the casualty should depend on signs on life.

Follow the A B C D

The first thing to check is the casualty’s airway. Leave the rider’s hat on and loosen any clothing around the neck. Look into the patients mouth and use your fingers to clear the mouth of vomit, blood or broken teeth.

Unless a spinal injury is expected, open the airway by gently tilting the forehead back and lift the chin upwards. If you do suspect a spinal injury, keep the neck still and just push the jaw forwards.

Breathing

Look, listen and feel for breathing for 10sec. If the casualty is not breathing, you’ll have to start mouth-to-mouth rescue breaths. Pinch the victim’s nose closed, take a deep breath and place your lips around their mouth, ensuring you have a good “seal”. Blow steadily for about 2secs to make the chest rise. Lift your head away and take another deep breath while the chest deflates and repeat once.

Circulation

Check for any signs of circulation such as a pulse, coughing or swallowing. If signs of circulation are present, then continue rescue breaths every 4sec until the casualty starts to breathe on their own.

If there are no signs of circulation proceed to CPR (cardio-pulmonary resuscitation). At this stage protection of the neck and back is relatively less important, so move the patient on to their back on a firm surface and find the centre of the chest (about two fingers’ width up from the lowest point of the breastbone).

Place your hands one on top of the other, both facing down, and use the heel of your hand to depress the chest about 2in, 100 times a minute. After 15 compressions, give two more breaths and continue alternating 15 compressions with two breaths. Continue until the casualty shows signs of life or until professional help arrives.

Deadly bleeding

Applying direct continuous pressure is the best way to stop any bleeding. Elevate the bleeding part, remove any tight clothes and press directly on to the bleeding area with an, ideally clean, pad and your fingers for at least 10mins.

If you can do these simple things, you can save a life. The techniques pertain to any episode, however caused. So have a go — if things are this bad you can do no harm. Don’t panic, just do your best. Be sensible and logical, and remember that one day they might be doing the same for you.

The complete article by Dr Lucy Free was published in the 27 November issue of Horse & Hound. To purchase a back issue (tel: 020 8532 3628).

A stable yard with dust particles from bedding and hay floating around, plus spray from fly repellents and coat conditioners and perhaps wood preservatives, can be a potentially hazardous place for our eyes.

When using anything that may present a risk, it is always advisable to wear protective eye goggles. Even the most superficial of grazes to the cornea (surface of the eye) may result in scaring or infection that can lead to permanently impaired vision, so treat all eye injuries with care — they present a potentially serious risk to the casualty’s sight.

The best way to remove most minor irritations floating on the white of the eye, such as dust and eyelashes, is by gently rinsing the eye out. Locate the problem by sitting the casualty down facing the light, then, standing behind them, gently separate the eyelids and carefully search the eye, asking the casualty to look left, right, up and down.

When the foreign body is located, wash it out with sterile eyewash or by pouring clean water from a glass. If you are unsuccessful, lift the object with a damp tissue or swab, or seek medical help.

Never touch anything that sticks to the eye, is on the coloured iris, the pupil or which has penetrated the eye. In these circumstances, the casualty should lie on his back holding a sterile dressing or clean, non-fluffy pad over the injured eye, while keeping both eyes as still as possible. Do not remove contact lenses and transport the person to hospital urgently.

If the eye is splashed with a chemical, it is vital to rinse it off immediately. This will dilute and disperse the chemical, minimising the potential damage to the surface of the eye. If possible wear disposable gloves and take care that the contaminated water doesn’t splash on to you or the casualty, overflow in to the other eye or run down the side of the face.

Hold the casualty’s eye under gently running cold water, either from a tap or by pouring water from a glass, until you are sure the chemical is gone. If pain causes the casualty to shut the eye, pull the eyelids open gently but firmly and irrigate carefully.

Give the casualty a sterile eye dressing or clean pad to hold over the injured eye while medical help is sought.

This article was originally published in Horse & Hound as part of its Accident & Emergency series. Don’t miss the current issue (30 October) which discussed equine breathing problems.

While falls and knocks are more common in the equine environment than injuries accompanied by severe bleeding, accidents with implements such as knives, scissors and clippers do occur from time to time.

Wearing disposable gloves if available, uncover the wound by cutting or removing clothing if necessary. Check the wound for foreign bodies and if none are found apply direct pressure over the wound with a sterile, non-fluffy dressing or clean pad (if available) and the flat of your hand.

If there is a foreign body present do not apply pressure directly to the wound as this will press the object further into the body. Do not try to remove the foreign body either. Instead press firmly either side of the object, pushing the edges of the wound together.

If the bleeding is coming from a limb, try to raise and support the injury above the casualty’s heart level to help reduce blood loss.

If there is no foreign body present then a dressing may be firmly bandaged in to place to maintain pressure on the wound. The bandage should not be so tight that circulation is restricted.

A further layer of padding may be used on top of the original dressing if the bleeding persists. If blood becomes visible through the dressings, then remove them both and apply a fresh dressing accurately over the wound.

If a foreign body is present gently build up padding either side of the object, then carefully bandage a dressing into place without pressing the object further into the wound.

Wounds at a joint crease are likely to bleed profusely as they are the sites of the major blood vessels. When controlling bleeding in these areas adequate circulation to the extremities must be checked and maintained.

Place a sterile dressing or pad over the injury and bend the joint to hold it firmly in place and maintain pressure on the wound. Raise the limb above heart level if possible and transport the casualty to hospital in this position.

An injury that results in severe bleeding needs urgent medical assistance and anyone involved with horses should ensure their tetanus vaccinations are kept up-to-date.

Any severe loss of bodily fluid is likely to lead to shock so be aware of the signs and treat urgently as necessary. Click here to read more about shock. If shock is suspected, and the injuries allow, lay the casualty down, with their legs raised and supported above heart level.

This article was originally published in Horse & Hound (4 September) and the information contained within it is available in the eight edition of First Aid Manual, authorised by the St John Ambulance.

Horses have hard heads and when they make an unexpected movement that brings their head in to contact with ours, we can come off worse.

Nose bleeds

A blow to the face may cause tiny blood vessels within the nose to rupture, resulting in a nosebleed. This is not generally serious unless there is an excessive amount of blood loss, or the blood is thin and watery, which may indicate fluid from around the brain is leaking due to a fractured skull.

In non-serious circumstances, the casualty should sit down and pinch the soft part of the nose, tilting the head forwards to allow the blood to drain through the mouth. Do not tip the head back as this may cause the blood to run down the throat and result in vomiting.

Maintain the pressure for 10min, while keeping movement to a minimum. Talking, swallowing, spitting or coughing may disturb the forming clot. If the bleeding has not stopped, this procedure can be repeated twice more. Medical help should be sought for any nosebleed, which has continued for more than 30min.

Once the bleeding stops, the casualty should remain quiet for a few hours, taking care not to disturb any clots.

Bleeding from the mouth

Minor cuts to the lips, tongue and mouth nay bleed profusely and be alarming. There is a danger that blood may be inhaled into the lungs, causing breathing difficulties. The casualty should sit with their head forward and tilted slightly to the injured side to let the blood dribble from the mouth.

A gauze pad should be pressed on the wound for 10min to help the bleeding stop. If the bleeding has not stopped after this procedure has been repeated twice more, then medical help should be sought.

Once the bleeding has stopped hot drinks should be avoided for 12hr. Washing the mouth out may disturb a clot that is beginning to form, so should be avoided.

Lost teeth

If an adult tooth is knocked out, it should be replanted in its socket as soon as possible. Cleaning it off may cause tissue damage, so wearing disposable gloves, gently push the tooth into the socket and keep it in place by pressing a guaze pad between the top and bottom teeth.

If this is not possible and the casualty is conscious, they should keep the tooth inside their cheek while urgent help is sought. Alternatively the tooth can be placed in a small container of milk to prevent it from drying out.

Biting down on a thick gauze pad placed across he empty socket can help control any associated bleeding.

This article was originally published in the 7 August issue of Horse & Hound. The information is available in the eighth edition First Aid Manual, authorised by St John Ambulance.

Although a broken collarbone is rarely caused by direct force, the indirect stress from a hard fall on to a rider’s outstretched arm or to the shoulder can be a common cause of a fracture.

Immobilising the injured shoulder and arm, and taking the casualty to hospital as quickly and comfortably as possible is the top priority.

If a collarbone fracture is suspected, there may be pain that becomes worse with movement, and the shoulder may be swollen or appear deformed. The casualty is likely to carry his head to the injured side and support the elbow in an effort to relieve pain.

Crashing falls to the shoulder or an outstretched arm may also result in damaged ligaments or dislocation of the joint.

This will obviously be extremely painful so the casualty may be reluctant to move and likely to incline the head to the injured side and support the arm. The shoulder can have a flat, angular look.

What to do

• Help the casualty to sit down and place the affected arm diagonally across the chest, with their fingers on the uninjured shoulder, supporting the elbow with their other hand
• Remove any uncomfortable clothing, and place a soft pad between the arm and body.
• Using a triangular bandage, form a sling, placing soft padding inside between the arm and chest to offer comfort
• If this is not possible, get the casualty to support the injured arm in the most comfortable position for them and call medical aid
• Do not allow them to eat, drink or smoke in case a general anaesthetic is needed
• Don’t attempt to replace a dislocated bone
• Get the casualty to hospital where the injury can be properly assessed

This information is available in the eighth edition of the First Aid Manual authorised by St John Ambulance.

While our horses receive the best possible attention for the slightest injury, with the most scrupulous care taken to avoid infection, when it comes to ourselves, very often the “it’s only a scratch” policy is adopted.

Although many wounds are superficial, if they are not adequately treated infection could take hold, leading to more serious problems and most seriously a prolonged recovery period during which you may be unable to ride or care for your horse.

When caring for horses just about any injury is possible, and the type of wound you receive will depend upon how and what inflicted it.

Lacerations and tears: don’t tend to bleed excessively, but may have tissue damage and contamination from germs, so infection is a high risk.

Incised cuts: are usually cleaner, may bleed profusely and possibly need stitching to repair damage to tendons and nerves.

Contusions (bruises): ruptured blood capillaries beneath the skin. If severe, may indicate a fracture or internal damage.

Puncture wounds: a classic cause of infection or tetanus — especially if stabbed in the foot with a stable fork, which will carry bacteria deep into the wound.

Abrasions: superficial but can become infected by foreign particles if not cleaned thoroughly.

Treating bleeding

• Bleeding from most superficial injuries can generally be relieved by pressure and elevation
• Clean a dirty wound by rinsing gently under running water, or use an alcohol-free wipe. Pat dry and cover with sterile gauze.
• Help reduce bleeding by elevating the injured part above heart level, if possible
• Wash the surrounding area with soap and water, using clean swabs for every stroke. Always wipe away from the wound to avoid contaminating it
• Pat dry, then cover the wound using a clean, fresh, self-adhesive dressing

Treating bruises

Both bites and kicks from horses result in severe bruising, not to mention most falls.

Apply a cold compress, either by making a pad from a towel soaked in very cold water (you will need to re-soak the towel every few minutes) or by using an “ice bag”, such as a bag of frozen peas wrapped in a dry tea towel. Ice should not be put directly onto the skin.

Keep the compress in place for at least 10min. If the symptoms do not ease or the kick was in the chest or abdomen, seek medical advice.

This information is available in the eighth edition First Aid Manual authorised by the St John Ambulance.

An adequately trained individual and a well-stocked first aid kit could be the difference between life and death when an animal or person is badly injured. Happily, in most instances first aid means simply being able, and prepared, to cope with a fall or injury while expert help is summoned.

Anyone who travels or competes frequently will need first aid kits on the lorry for humans and animals, as well as boxes for both at home. Useful contact telephone numbers, such as vet, farrier, doctor and insurers, should be readily accessible, together with a pen and paper, a well-charged mobile phone and a torch.

Veterinary surgeon Mike Barrott of the Cinder Hill Equine Veterinary Clinic, says: “Most minor wounds are easily treated at home, but more serious injuries or those close to joints or tendons are likely to requireveterinary assistance.”

Strictly speaking, all stable yards should have a designated first aider, who has had some training.

St John Ambulance training officer Clive James says: “Falls from horses can result in extensive injuries and it’s vital that those on the scene have at least some basic training.”

There are many courses available in basic first aid. Details are available on the St John Ambulance website www.sja.org.uk or in your local telephone directory.

The equine first aid box

• Gamgee
• Cotton wool
• Melonin or similar dressings
• Antiseptic wound cleaner
• Antiseptic creams and soluble, clear wound gels
• Vetwrap or similar adhesive bandages
• Stretch, exercise and stable bandages
• Clean container for water
• Animalintex or similar poultice
• Duct tape
• Hoof pick and a pair of pliers
• Bute – check with your vet first before administering
• Golden eye ointment
• Thermometer
• Round-ended scissors

The human first aid kit

• Booklet on basic first aid procedures
• Round-ended scissors
• Thermometer
• Eye pads
• Eyewash and eye bath
• Triangular bandage and safety pins
• Melonin dressings or similar
• Antiseptic wipes
• Antiseptic wound washes
• Disposable gloves
• Resuscitators (face shields for hygienic resuscitation)

Many lower leg wounds can be described as over-reaches but the first aid each requires will differ depending on the precise cause.

Horses can injur themselves by:

• The hind foot striking into the front heel – an overreach
• Wounds on the inside of the leg, below the knee or hock, caused by the inside of the oppositeleg’s hoof – speedicut
• The hind foot striking into the front leg anywhere above the heel, including causing damage to the flexor tendons – a strike injury
• Wounds around the coronet that are the result of a horse treading on himself, often while travelling – treads

Such wounds can range from trivial scrapes requiring a minor clean-up to crippling injuries that damage the vital tissues of the lower limb and can end a horse’s career.

First aid

• Assess the degree of lameness. With any trauma, the horse can be sore, but persistent lameness implies serious damage. Call your vet.
• Stop bleeding. If there is major bleeding, encourage clotting by applying a clean pressure bandage over the wound. Tape a pad in place for at least five minutes.
• Clean the wound. Low-pressure cold-hosing is a good method, as it numbs pain. Blood and dirt should be wiped away with moist swabs.
• Assess the damage. A small skin wound is not trivial if the horse is very lame: serious damage is likely, especially with strike injuries in which the leg was bent when it was struck. There may be underlying tissue damage away from the wound site.
• Cover the wound. Use a gel to start wound repair. These can be applied directly to the injury, which should then be dressed. Most wounds will be too bruised to suture, but your vet can advise.

Danger areas

• Deep wounds at the back of the pastern that may involve the tendon sheath
• Wounds around the coronary band, which can indicate coffin joint damage
• Wounds around the back of the cannon bone may mean tendon damage
• In each of these cases, or if the horse is lamer than you would expect, consult your vet.

First aid measures

• Stable the horse
• Feed good quality hay, but no grass
• Plenty of water to drink
• Don’t feed concentrates
• Probiotics may help in some cases
• As well as plain water, offer a separate water bucket containing electrolytes
• Check the horse’s temperature. If it is elevated contact your vet
• Look for oedema (accumulation of fluid) under the belly and on the lower limbs. This is a serious sign. If you notice it, you should talk to your vet as soon as possible
• Check your worming regime as parasites can cause diarrhoea

There is always a remote possibility that diarrhoea can spread to other horses or people. For this reason, be sensible with your own hygiene and keep the affected horse in, away from his fellow animals.

Cleaning the dock area and buttocks and applying petroleum jelly can help to reduce skin damage. It may also be necessary to bandage the tail to keep it clean, but never leave a bandage on for more than four hours at a time.

Keeping a well-stocked first aid kit available at all times, whether at home or at a show, is vital if you are to administer emergency first aid successfully.

The contents of your kit can be simple or elaborate, but the following are worth having:

• List of key phone numbers, eg vet, doctor, insurers
• Pen and paper
• Torch, ideally a small pen torch and a larger torch (plus spare batteries)
• Thermometer
• Curved, stainless steel scissors
• Small pair of tweezers or forceps
• Clean bucket or big bowl
• Antiseptic wound cleaner eg povidone-iodine (pevidine) or chlorhexidine (Hibiscrub)
• Surgical spirit
• Petroleum jelly (Vaseline)
• Wound gel (Dermagel, Intrasite gel, Nugel, Vetalintex)
• A range of dressings including cotton wool and Gamgee
• Ready-to-use poultice (Animalintex)
• Non-stick sterile dressing squares to go over wounds (Melonin)
• Cotton stretch bandages (K band)
• Adhesive bandages (Elastoplast)
• Self-adhesive bandages (Vetrap)
• Zinc oxide tape or electric insulating tape
• Exercise bandages
• Stable bandages

Useful extras

• shoe-removing kit
• Pliers and wire cutters
• Spare hoofpick
• Salt
• Sterile bag of saline to flush wounds
• Moist baby wipes to clean wounds
• Sterile antiseptic-impregnated nail brushes to clean wounds (E-Zscrub)
• Proprietary ice wrap or cooling bandage
• Clean, old towels
• Bailer twine and some rope
• Medications: to be discussed with your vet and prescribed as necessary
• Bandages: there are many modern bandaging materials available, ask your vet to advise on the best options for your individual situation.

Every horse owner should have a good understanding of basic first aid techniques to use when an injury is discovered. It may provide help straight away for an obviously serious emergency until the vet arrives or can be used to treat minor injuries that are unlikely to need a vet.

If in doubt, consult your vet. Horse owners need to know how to recognise a serious injury and how to respond with the appropriate first aid until a vet can attend.

When a horse is cut and bleeding badly, the problem is obvious, but in cases of colic, illness or a more subtle injury, it can be more difficult to assess how distressed the horse actually is.

It is therefore important to know your horse’s normal vital signs, including temperature, pulse and respiration, so you can easily detect any changes.

Similarly, make sure you are aware of their normal behaviour patterns, so that you can spot differences.

Owners should:

• know how to contact your vet in an emergency
• know where or how you can obtain horse transport in a hurry
• keep a well-stocked first aid kit available

Taking action

The most common first aid condition is when a horse sustains a wound.

The immediate action should be to:

• prevent further injury
• control blood loss
• minimise contamination
• maintain cleanliness and reduce the risk of infection.

All but the most severe bleeding can be controlled by applying a clean, dry bandage pad with moderate pressure. If you are out in the middle of nowhere, sacrifice a T-shirt or similar to hold over the wound. If you can tape it in place or hold it there for at least 5min, it should allow blood clotting to occur.

The ideal is to use a sterile or clean bandage to reduce contamination by dirt and dust. This is where dressings from a first aid kit are useful.

First aid rules for wounds

• clot: first stop the bleeding
• check and clean: contamination and infection prevent wounds from healing. If infection penetrates vital structures such as joints or tendon sheaths, a horse may become permanently lame, so it is vital to check carefully the position, depth and severity of any wound. To do this properly, you will need to clean the wound, so that you can see what is involved, provided this can be done without making it bleed further.
• cover: the wound should be covered where possible to protect it. People are often tempted to apply creams and potions on to an injury. It is important to remember that raw tissues are exposed

Wound management

With a wound, always contact your vet if:

• any wound is bleeding profusely
• the horse is very lame, even if the wound is small
• any wound that is more than a couple of inches long and has gone right through the skin, so that it gapes open, may need stitching
• there is any suspicion of a foreign body
• there is any suspicion that a joint may be involved
• the horse has not had an anti-tetanus vaccination.

A wound may need to be stitched if:

• the edges are gaping apart
• it is large or deep
• it is in an awkward place where it will scar.

If you think a wound may need to be stitched, you should consult your vet as soon as possible, since it will heal more effectively if it is sutured while still fresh. However, there is a 6-8hr optimum period for wound repair.

Deep punctures, swollen or crushed wound edges and severely contaminated or infected wounds will not be suitable for suturing, nor will wounds that are more than 8hr old in most cases. Your vet will advise you on this.

Emergency leg support

Leg injuries are another common first aid issue. If a suspected fracture is managed properly, immediately after the initial injury, it may improve the chances of recovery.

If a horse is extremely lame, it is important to prevent it from moving unnecessarily on the damaged leg and exacerbating the injury. Keep the hopping-lame horse as still as possible while help is summoned. Proper immobilisation and support of the injury will help relieve pain.

Inadequate splinting can make an injury worse. With a suspected fracture, your vet may apply a large support bandage, known as a Robert Jones bandage.

It is essential to remember that first aid is the first thing done. Most important of all is ensuring that the horse is not in pain. Treating a wound, supporting a leg injury, good nursing and the correct management as soon as something goes wrong can all speed a successful recovery.