Latest from Horse & Hound in Feeding

Expert advice for feeding horses with or prone to laminitis – what owners need to know

Bethany Stone — Wed, 10 Jun 2026 13:00:15 +0000

Feeding horses with or prone to laminitis requires you to reconsider their whole diet, whether they’re retired or at the peak of their competitive career.

Laminitis is a common, painful condition which manifests itself in one or more of the horse’s hooves. It is a multifactorial condition, which means it can be caused by a number of factors, but it frequently arises as the result of a metabolic upset.

While laminitis is often seen in native ponies during periods of peek grass growth, overweight horses of any type can be at risk – and suffer from the condition – at any time of year. Horses with underlying issues, such as Cushing’s disease or Equine Metabolic Syndrome, are also at greater risk.

“The modern equine lifestyle of cosy stables, rugs and over-full haynets is often where the problem of laminitis stems from,” says Kate Hore, head nutritionist at NAF.

“The largest part of any diet should be forage and grazing. When that is rich spring grass, it can be a real risk for the laminitis-prone.

“We should be feeding as naturally as possible, which means feeding a high-fibre, high-forage diet with little to no starchy cereals, such as may be found in concentrates.”

So, how to approach feeding horses with laminitis, or those at risk? Read on for advice from nutrition experts. It’s important to note, however, that laminitis is a veterinary emergency – if you suspect your horse has it, please call your vet before doing anything else.

Feeding horses with laminitis – in the bucket

If a horse has been diagnosed with laminitis, then take individual advice from your vet, but generally speaking, they should be fed little and often in line with good equine feeding practice.

Fibre should form the bulk of their diet alongside essential vitamins and minerals, while sugar and starch levels should be kept low. Because hay, haylage and grass are naturally deficient in some nutrients, forage alone is not sufficient to deliver a fully balanced diet, so a top-up of essential vitamins, minerals and trace elements is required.

Pelleted forage balancers are an ideal bucket feed for laminitis-prone horses. Balancers work to ensure horses receive their recommended daily intakes (RDA) across the full spectrum of their diet. Some of these feeds are formulated specifically for horses prone to laminitis.

While they provide key vitamins, minerals and quality protein to suit the horse’s lifestyle and workload, they also keep calorie, starch and sugar intakes low. However, they must be fed according to the manufacturer’s recommendations to be effective.

“Ensure you maintain a good vitamin, mineral and quality protein intake. This supports muscle, hoof health, coat condition and internal nutrient reserves and healthy fibre levels to support gut function,” says Emma Short, equine nutritionist at Baileys Horse Feeds.

“For horses that need additional calories for weight gain, high-calorie fibre sources can be added along with the balancer. These might include unmolassed alfalfa chaffs with added oil, or soaked beet products. High oil supplements are also available,” she adds.

If a balancer is not the right option for your horse, you can also feed a supplement specifically for horses on restricted grazing, which will ensure they get the nutrients they need.

Feeding forage to a laminitic

Forage should make up the bulk of any horse’s diet, because it’s essential for healthy gut function. What’s more, it’s a horse’s chief source of energy (calories).

With this in mind, it’s important to consider how much hay to feed a horse. Most nutritionists say horses should ideally eat forage on an ad-lib basis.

However, this method delivers too many calories to some horses. Therefore, most nutritionists agree horses should eat between 2–2.5% of their bodyweight in dry matter forage (i.e. weight of hay less its moisture content) to maintain condition, or 1.5–1.8% for weight loss.

Another approach to feeding hay is to ensure your horse never has to fast for more than four hours. Consequently, you may need to look at ways to increase his chew time by making his ration last longer. You can do this using forage blocks, small-holed haynets and slow feeders.

Soaking hay will help to reduce the sugar content and calorie intake, while clean mature (stalky) hay is preferable to fresh green hay.

Feeding good quality oat or barley straw as part of a horse’s forage consumption is also an option. Because it’s low in calories yet high in fibre, it helps extend chew time without oversupplying energy.

Always ensure the straw is a nice yellow colour and free from mould. As with hay, there should be no airborne spore clouds emerging when you pull it apart.

Ponies prone to laminitis often require restricted access to grass – perhaps none at all. Photo: Alamy (Image credit: creditUnknown)

Is hay or haylage better for laminitics?

The right type of forage for feeding horses with laminitis is low in WSCs (water-soluble carbohydrates, which include sugar and fructans), starch and calories.

Forages vary widely, and these factors could be true of either hay or haylage. It’s also true that some hay types deliver more calories than haylage.

Therefore, it’s best to consider what to put in a laminitic horse’s haynet in terms of its content. You can ask the manufacturer for advice, or send samples of your forage off for analysis. Bear in mind, you would need to do this regularly and comprehensively, which is an additional cost.

If you feed hay, a late-cut crop is the most suitable. Late-cut hay is typically a stalkier, more mature plant that is less nutritious than early-cut hay, which is soft and leafy.

However, you can further reduce your hay’s WSC and calorie content by soaking it. The degree of nutrient reduction required determines how long to soak hay.

Soaking hay also reduces its fibre and dry matter content. This means you can safely feed a greater quantity to a laminitic horse, so they can chew for longer.

Grazing horses prone to laminitis

Feeding horses with laminitis can mean avoiding grass entirely, depending on their health or weight status. Always adhere to veterinary advice when considering turnout for a laminitis-prone horse. Vets recommend active laminitis cases be kept indoors in a deep, soft bed to minimise the risk, or degree, of pedal bone rotation.

Generally speaking, the grass is at its most dangerous for laminitis-prone (i.e. producing the most sugar) when it is…

experiencing flush, fresh growth
under stress from over-grazing
covered with frost on a bright morning where temperatures are below 4ºC (as sugar is produced but cannot be used for growth)

“For an overweight pony in light work, ideally we want to limit access to fresh grazing,” explains Kate. “If he needs additional fibre, ensure it is a low WSC hay or haylage, and consider soaking to reduce sugars.”

Many laminitics are notoriously good-doers, and love their food. Research shows that ponies on restricted turnout can adapt both bite rate and the amount taken in each bite, so that they can essentially eat as much in three hours as they would naturally do in 12 hours.

“Think of ways that you can maximise the time turned out, but still control access to grazing. It’s best to avoid a small cornered off area as that encourages them to stand and eat; natural movement is what we want. Track systems can be really useful, if practical, alternatively look at using a grazing muzzle or strip grazing to limit intake whilst encouraging mobility,” continues Kate.

But what about the horse in a higher level of work? The basic feeding principle with a laminitis-prone animal is really the same as with any horse, and that is “feed to work done”.

“For a fit but insulin-resistant eventer, we might be looking at alfalfa chaffs and controlled grazing, with additional oil, to provide all the energy they need,” explains Kate. “Supplement these with concentrated vitamins and trace elements to balance the diet.”

Prevention is better than a cure

If your horse is prone to laminitis, it’s important to regularly body condition score them to monitor their weight.

Ask for advice from your vet or nutritionist if you’re unsure how to do it. Plus, keep a record so you can track the results. Taking photos can also be useful.

“One of the key messages is working towards stopping laminitis happening rather than dealing with it,” Lizzie Drury, senior nutritionist at Saracen Horse Feeds.

“Be on high alert with your horse, particularly if he’s prone to laminitis, and don’t allow him to become overweight. Be constantly aware of what and how much you’re feeding him and his exercise level. Ask whether he needs to be rugged. Be aware 365 days a year,” she concludes.

Feeding competition horses prone to laminitis

The effect of the diet on laminitic horses is complex, and requires expert tailored advice from a nutritionist. Spillers nutritional content manager Vanessa Allen emphasises “prioritising health over performance”.

“We would recommend feeds based on body condition first and ridden energy levels second,” she explains. “For good-doers, balancers would be the first choice. Ensure all essential nutrients are provided, then choose a balancer specifically aimed at harder-working horses. Protein quality is just as important as quantity – for example, deficiency in lysine can limit protein synthesis, affecting muscle health and overall performance.”

Even if you feel your competition horse needs more oomph, if he’s prone to laminitis, most traditional competition course mixes are off the menu.

“This can make balancing energy levels difficult,” says Vanessa. “Some low-starch, high-energy performance feeds could be sensible options, ideally providing energy from oil and fibre rather than cereal.”

Meal sizes are another factor when considering starch and sugar intake, don’t just look at percentages.

“A balancer with a combined starch and sugar content of 15% provides just 75g of starch and sugar when fed at 500g per day; a feed with just 5% provides 150g when fed at 3kg per day,” Vanessa points out.

“As a guide, restrict non-structural carbohydrate (NSC) or ‘starch or sugar’ to less than 0.5g per kilogram of body weight per meal – less than 250g for a 500kg horse – for those who are not severely insulin-dysregulated. For the latter, seek advice from a nutritionist or vet; testing the horse’s insulin response to their normal feed and/or forage may be helpful.”

For laminitics in particular, Vanessa warns: “It’s important to tackle the whole diet, with potentially stricter forage and grass management – don’t just concentrate on the bucket feed. Consider all strategies to reduce sugar intake: soaking hay and reducing access to grazing.”

Vanessa would also recommend having your forage analysed for water soluble carbohydrate (via the “wet chemistry” method) to discover if it is suitable for your horse to eat.

For unlimited access to advice on how best to care for your horse, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

Could LeMieux’s new grazing muzzle help make tackling equine obesity cool?

Bethany Stone — Mon, 18 May 2026 09:32:43 +0000

I’m a very relatable horse owner. Just like an estimated 30-75% of owners (depending on which study you read), I have a fat horse in my paddock.

It’s easy to dismiss my overweight equine, Pip (pictured below), with language that minimises the problem. He’s a chunky monkey one minute and “Pippo the hippo” the next.

But waving away the problem with phrases like “he looks well” and “he’s in show condition” – which is a whole other kettle of fish – won’t do anything to make him healthier.

Yikes… this is the photo that prompted me to buy Pip’s muzzle last summer. Photo: Bethany Stone (Image credit: creditUnknown)

Overweight horses are predisposed to conditions like laminitis, arthritis and certain types of colic. No one would willingly expose their horse to health problems, and I’m willing to bet that most owners of fat horses have the best intentions.

In fact, equestrians being unable to spot an overweight horse is a key factor many experts cite when asked why so many horses are fat. Others state that some owners may even misidentify a fat horse as a thin one.

Owners might be influenced by peers who criticise restricting their overweight horses’ diets.

Many horses are on lush paddocks, eat forage that oversupplies calories, and consume diet-balancing bucket meals that provide still more calories.

It appears we are a nation of horse feeders with sparing tolerance for equines on the leaner side. Turning the tide of opinion on equine body condition has so far been slow going. But what if equine weight loss were Instagrammable?

Grass restriction made trendy

Earlier this spring, equestrian product giant LeMieux, world-renowned for their saddlepad, boot and ear bonnet co-ords, released their first product aimed at slimming down fat horses – a grazing muzzle.

Launched in two colours, the muzzle has an eye-catching design and an affordable price point. Of course, Pip would only accept a style that was triple the price for his weight loss journey, so I’m not the proud owner of one. However, our own Georgia Guerin gave it our highest rating, so we can safely say it’s effective too.

LeMieux’s popularity means the brand is consistently releasing market must-haves, and if this muzzle is their latest trend, I think it’s only good news for equine obesity.

Horses get most of their calories from forage, so soaking hay and restricting grass intake is the way to get them in a deficit and cause them to lose weight. If an appealing new product encourages those who are on the fence about helping their horse lose weight to take action, then I think it can only be a good thing, however fashionable.

Naturally, a sea-change in feeding practices is going to take more than a “viral” product, and I do think the lesson of safe forage restriction is more important than a trending muzzle.

I expect there may be some individuals out there who think impressionable children may use the LeMieux grazing muzzle on their poor ponies who are healthy – or even thin – for the sake of fashion. Personally, I don’t think this could ever be true.

There’s hardly enough of an appetite for restricting grass intake of obese horses, let alone poor doers.

Liked this column? To read opinion pieces from some of the biggest names in the horse world, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

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How long should you be soaking hay for horses? An expert explains

Bethany Stone — Sat, 16 May 2026 07:00:04 +0000

How long to soak hay for horses is one of those questions that you hear asked by owners time after time, especially in the summer months, and there’s a lot of confusion around the subject. If your horse is overweight, dust sensitive, prone to laminitis or has equine metabolic syndrome (EMS), it’s probably something you’ve questioned at some point.

Horses in these categories may have excessive body fat, which can contribute to many other conditions, such as some types of colic and arthritis, and affects the body’s normal hormonal processes. Overweight horses are also more likely to have EMS, which is a condition that encompasses insulin dysregulation and predisposes horses to laminitis.

Tackling weight gain for these horses is a potential life-or-death factor, so we’ve asked independent equine nutritionist Clare MacLeod MSc RNutr to help you work out what’s best for your horse.

Why soak hay for horses?

The two main reasons are to reduce nutrient intake (when helping horses to lose weight) or minimise dust (for horses with respiratory problems).

Horses have evolved to spend most of their time chewing fibre, and to receive most of their daily calories from grass, hay and haylage. Often, forage oversupplies calories to horses, contributing to weight gain and obesity.

Soaking hay is an effective method for reducing its energy (calorie), water-soluble carbohydrate (WSC), or sugar and fructan content. This helps cut sugar and restrict calories from an equine diet.

Fructans are not the same as sugar, Clare explains. “They are sugar units joined with bonds that are fermented in the hindgut, rather than broken down by digestive enzymes.

“Research shows some fructan is broken down via bacterial fermentation in the small intestine. This is likely why it contributes to insulin response.”

This means fructans also contribute to laminitis.

How long to soak hay for horses: things every owner should know

The length of time you’d soak hay for depends on the desired result.

You might soak hay for 15-30 minutes to minimise dust for a horse with respiratory problems.

Soaking hay for 30 minutes to an hour slightly reduces its calorie and WSC content. However, the reduction may be insufficient to keep an obese horse in a calorie deficit, which is necessary for weight loss.

“Losses from soaking can vary,” says Clare. “It depends on factors including the composition of the hay, the amount of water used and the temperature,”

“Therefore, research that shows significant losses of WSCs in an hour or two cannot necessarily be relied upon in all real-life situations.

“In addition we are not soaking just for sugar and fructan loss but also for energy (calories). Reducing sugar without a significant reduction in calories will be insufficient for weight-loss targets.

“It’s not just sugar that horses get calories from – it’s fructan and fibre, too!”

Clare says water temperature can also influence nutrient loss.

“Losses are quicker in warmer water, so we might find we can soak for less time in summer, compared to winter, and in large volumes of water, so using as much as you can is key.”

Obese horses need reduced calories, but still need to chew to maintain gut health – small-holed haynets can make his ration last longer. Photo: Getty/Anja Janssen (Image credit: creditUnknown)

Can you soak hay overnight?

Soaking hay for longer periods of 8–12 hours, or overnight, is considered suboptimal by some due to nutrient loss and the risk of fermentation.

But, according to Clare, a balance must be struck.

“Long soaking [10+ hours] reduces dry matter – the amount of actual hay, and fibre. Therefore, we need to take this into account and slightly increase the weight of hay to accommodate this loss.

“Increasing the weight of long-soaked hay by 20% can accommodate this, but the long-soak generally means we would be feeding hay at a higher rate anyway, since it becomes less nutritious.

“This is part of the benefit of long-soaking hay: it means we can feed more forage to our horse or pony while maintaining the calorie deficit they need for weight loss or healthy weight maintenance.”

As well as feeding more soaked hay, Clare adds that owners should use the bucket feed to ensure optimal nutrition.

“In terms of nutrient intake, we do need to carefully balance the diet with long-soaked hay,” she says.

“This can be done by adding a well-formulated feed balancer, such as a low-calorie compound concentrate fed at 100g per 100kg bodyweight, if there is no grass in the diet.”

Soaking hay overnight leads to elevated bacteria levels, but is better for a horse than obesity and its associated health risks. Photo: Philip Barker (Image credit: creditUnknown)

Clare recommends considering long-soaking hay in cost-benefit terms for overall equine health.

“Although bacterial count can increase on long-soaked hay, there is no evidence showing this occurs to a level that is harmful to the horse. Plus, horses and ponies have been fed long-soaked hay for years with good results,” explains Clare.

“We should only soak for as long as necessary, but also realise that a slightly elevated bacterial count in hay is less unhealthy than chronic obesity with altered metabolic parameters, for example insulin dysregulation and/or laminitis.”

How long does soaked hay last?

As a rule, Clare says that soaked hay should be fed as soon as it has drained. Avoid re-presenting any uneaten quantity to your horse.

The quality of the hay to be soaked will likely influence its longevity.

“We should select only good hygienic quality hay for long-soaking,” she continues. “By this, I mean hay that is not dusty, with no signs of a high mould spore count (no fine smoke-like clouds that go airborne when you pull it apart).”

Other good hygiene practices to improve the life of soaked hay include:

Soaking out of direct sunlight
Using clean water for every soak
Keeping soaking vessels and haynets clean
Using the largest volume of water possible to speed up the effects of soaking
Avoiding a long soak (for 10+ hours) unless you have to
Remove and dispose of any uneaten portions

If the hygienic quality of your hay is suboptimal and there is no alternative, Clare says you could steam after soaking to improve the hygiene.

“With less than ideal hay to soak, using straw to replace some of the hay ration might be a better choice than a long soak,” she continues. “However, very dusty or mouldy hay should never be fed to horses.”

How long to soak hay for horses prone to laminitis

While we can’t put an exact figure on how long to soak hay for laminitis, Clare has a rule of thumb to follow.

“I recommend soaking for as short a time as possible, but with caveats,” she says.

“The soak time should also be as long as it takes for that horse or pony to be able to be fed enough forage to avoid more than a four-hour fast, whilst still receiving the correct amount of energy (calories) for the desired result.

“That might be for weight loss, or maintenance if they are at a healthy bodyweight, and to control the laminitis.

“So, it really does depend on the hay, and the individual horse or pony.”

How to dispose of water from hay soaking

To prevent pollution, you should not allow uncontrolled draining from the waste water used to soak hay.

You should store liquid waste in a waterproof container and then dispose of it at a permitted facility or land spread – for more information, visit gov.uk.

You must get permission from your local water company to dispose of liquid waste to the sewer or a controlled water source. For more information, visit gov.uk

For unlimited access to advice on how best to care for your horse, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

How much to feed a horse, and what can horses eat? Everything a first-time owner needs to know

Bethany Stone — Mon, 04 May 2026 07:30:52 +0000

Little and often, fibre-focused and balance in the bucket – feeding equines appropriately takes know-how

In the wild, horses self-administer fibre-rich grass and browse hedges for up to 18 hours per day. But when it comes to domestic equines, who live very different lives from their wild and feral cousins, you might be wondering how much to feed a horse.

Spend five minutes in the horse world, and you’ll find a plethora of opinions on the subject – professional and otherwise. It’s true that how much to feed a horse hinges in part on the individual: breed and type, level of work, bodyweight, age and underlying conditions. To address such nuances, consult with a professional veterinary expert or equine nutritionist.

That said, there are golden rules of feeding horses that apply more or less across the board. These help meet nutritional needs and ensure healthy gut function in every horse.

In this guide, I’ll cover not only how much to put in your horse’s bucket, but also his forage ration. Plus, we’ll explore the composition of his diet, and what you can feed as a treat.

Jump to:

Your horse’s forage ration
How much forage to feed a horse
What goes in a horse’s bucket?
How much to feed a horse in their bucket
What can horses eat

Your horse’s forage ration

Forage is the term given to fibre-rich, stalky fodder such as grass, hay, haylage and chopped fibres such as chaff. There are many types of forage, including hay replacers, all with different nutrient, calorie (energy) and moisture levels. Whichever forage type – or types – match your horse, the important thing to know is that forage forms the vast majority of a healthy horse’s diet.

A horse’s diet is mostly made up of forage, like this haylage. Photo: Andrew Sydenham (Image credit: creditUnknown)

Why is forage so important?

Simply put, forage is fibre, and fibre is essential to equine gut health. Horses are trickle feeders, which means they are biologically designed to eat for the majority of their waking hours – and horses don’t sleep much. Grazing on forage is how they achieve this.

Chewing on forage encourages saliva production, which helps buffer a horse’s highly acidic stomach. It aids digestion and guards against gastric ulcers.

Importantly, your horse’s forage intake supplies most of his daily calories, so it’s a true cornerstone of his diet.

How much forage to feed a horse

Typically, the textbook advice is that horses should eat 2-2.5% of their bodyweight in forage per day on a dry matter basis, or no less than 1.5-1.8% to encourage weight loss. A dry matter basis means the weight of the forage minus its moisture content.

This means that if your hay has a 12% moisture content and you need to feed 10kg of dry matter forage to your 500kg horse, you would need to feed 11.36kg of hay.

You calculate this by dividing the weight of dry matter forage to be fed (10kg, or 2% of 500kg) by the dry matter percentage of your forage (in this case, 0.88).

The ad-lib rule

That said, there’s another rule for how much hay to feed a horse. The best way to feed forage is on an ad-lib basis. This means giving your horse as much as he can eat throughout the day and night.

Constant chewing and movement of the gut is optimal for horses, and a plentiful stream of forage is the best way to achieve this.

The ad-lib method is not suitable for overweight or obese horses, because it delivers too many calories and too much sugar. In these instances, owners must be clever about how they feed hay to extend their horses’ eating time.

For instance, they might soak hay to reduce its calorie content, meaning they can feed a greater quantity safely. Or, they might use one of the best small-holed haynets to slow their horse down.

Chaff is fed in the bucket to help encourage chewing. Photo: Andrew Sydenham (Image credit: creditUnknown)

A horse’s bucket feed – what goes in?

Although a vital source of calories and nutrients, grass, hay and haylage are naturally deficient in essential micronutrients, including vitamins and minerals.

This means a forage-only diet doesn’t deliver the full spectrum of micronutrients horses need each day, and must be “topped up” by a bucket feed.

Additionally, some horses require extra nutrients such as protein, calories (energy) or supplements to support them through work, age or a health concern.

Traditionally, horses were fed straights. This means feed rooms contained a variety of components such as grains, cereals, legumes and fibres and owners would mix them to form the bucket ration. Feeding straights correctly requires years of expertise and advanced equine nutritional knowledge.

These days, most owners feed from bags that are formulated by expert nutritionists and mixed for you by horse feed companies. These offer a correctly balanced diet when fed alongside appropriate forage.

In general terms, bucket rations often contain a selection of the following:

Dried chopped forage or chaff to add fibre, aid digestive health and comfort, and to help encourage chewing to help avoid choke
Pelleted or powdered feed balancers that, when fed at the recommended rate (usually around 100g for a 500kg horse) deliver the full spectrum of nutrients horses and a balanced diet alongside forage. They might also be formulated to address particular nutritional needs, such as for a veteran or breeding stock.
Coarse mixes that look like museli. Like balancers, these are formulated for different purposes and are often workload or performance-specific. They must be fed at the recommended rate to ensure the horse’s recommended daily nutrient intakes are met. Otherwise, they can be “topped up” with a balancer or vitamin and mineral supplement
Feed cubes (also called nuts) that serve the same purpose as mixes but can help discourage fussy feeding. They must also be fed at the manufacturer’s recommended rate or be “topped up”
Supplements that balance the diet for horses who don’t need any more calories or protein – there are joint supplements, respiratory supplements, gut balancers and so on
Mashes or soaked sugarbeet for hydration, conditioning, added fibre and additional calories and/or nutrients. Horses with poor dentition can benefit from these
Oils to add calories or promote a healthy coat
Straights for top dressing, such as oats to fuel performance or linseed for condition. These must be added with regard to total diet balance. If not, they can cause harmful imbalances, so it’s best to seek advice of a nutritionist before adding these.

Generally, bucket feed is wetted to encourage thorough chewing (to help avoid choke) and to lay any dust. For most feeds, the water added wouldn’t be enough to make a difference to hydration.

Large volumes of feed should be split over several bucket rations. Photo: Andrew Sydenham (Image credit: creditUnknown)

How much to feed a horse in their bucket

Another common saying in the horse feeding world? Feed little and often.

Despite their stature, horses have a relatively small stomach and a complex gut. Because of this, there is clear guidance on how much to feed a horse in their bucket at a time.

According to independent nutritionist Clare MacLeod MSc RNutr, a 500kg horse’s individual bucket feed (before adding chaff) should weigh no more than 1.5kg.

“The reason for this is the relatively small size of a horse’s stomach,” she explains, adding that it has a roughly 8-15 litre capacity.

“Also, horses evolved as a trickle-feeding forage eater, not as a large meal-eater.

“Another reason to keep concentrate meal size small is that it avoids overwhelming the capacity of the small intestine (the next part of the gut). It especially helps avoid large volumes of starch, which in turn helps to keep the hindgut healthy.”

Clare adds that calculating the total weight of bucket feed a horse needs per day depends how much concentrate they need to balance the nutrient shortages in grass, hay and haylage.

Sometimes, a horse must eat several kilos of bucket feed to attain the required nutrient and/or calorie intake. Because of the little and often rule, this volume would need to be spread across two or more feeds a day.

What do horses eat?

As well as their majority fibre diet of grass and hay/haylage and the contents of their bucket (see above), horses can eat a variety of foods as treats.

The best horse treats are high-fibre and low in sugar and starch. These are ideal for digestive health. Many horse feed companies manufacture treats for horses, and these should be fed according to their guidelines.

You can also feed handfuls of chaff as a low-value food reward.

Horses can eat many other fruits and vegetables as an occasional treat, but moderation is key. Safe treats for horses include:

carrots, cut into batons
parsnips, cut into batons
apples, halved or quartered
bananas, including the skin
celery, cut into batons
watermelon chunks
Turnips, cubed
Herbs, such as fenugreek and chamomile
Hedgerow plants, such as hawthorn, hazel, cleaver, rosehips

Horses can eat many fruits and vegetables, including bananas. Photo: Andrew Sydenham (Image credit: creditUnknown)

Highly processed foods, such as bread and biscuits, are not good for horses.

Many owners feed mints, such as Polos, to their horses as a reward but these should only be fed occasionally.

Horses should not eat foods that produce intestinal gases, such as onions, potatoes, tomatoes, cabbage and Brussels sprouts.

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The golden rules of feeding horses that all owners should know

Georgia Guerin — Wed, 29 Apr 2026 13:30:00 +0000

Every owner should learn the rules of feeding horses because a good understanding of equine nutrition is key to ensuring your horse remains healthy and in good condition all year round.

These rules cover the basics when it comes to feeding horses. There’s so much more to learn, but this is an excellent place to start.

Golden rules of feeding horses

These rules can be applied to every horse and will help maintain good health and avoid preventable digestive problems.

1. Provide access to fresh clean water at all times

Water is the most important part of your horse’s diet and is often overlooked. Horses should have access to fresh water at all times, whether stabled or in the field, to prevent dehydration.

An average horse at rest will drink around 25 litres a day and this can increase to more than double this amount if the horse is working hard or a hot environment.

Troughs, buckets and other water containers should also be kept clean.

Keep feeds in clean, rodent-proof bins or containers. (Image credit: Sarah Farnsworth)

2. Maintain good hygiene

Store your feed in a secure rodent-proof container within a clean, dry area to prevent damage from pests and moisture. Always use clean buckets, scoops and stirrers, and clean feed bins regularly.

3. Use high quality feeds

Never be tempted to feed dusty, mouldy or old feed. Doing so could cause respiratory problems, allergic responses or digestive upset.

Keep meals small by splitting your horse’s ration across the day. (Image credit: Getty Images)

4. Feed little and often

Horses have small stomachs and have evolved to trickle feed rather than eat large meals. If your horse’s bucket feed weighs more than 1.5kg, it must be split into two or more feeds over the course of the day. Splitting rations that weigh less it into multiple feeds is also beneficial.

5. Feed by weight, not volume

A scoop of one feed will not weigh the same as another as they have different densities. To ensure you’re feeding the correct quantities and know that your horse is getting everything he needs, weigh each type of feed you use.

Some bagged feed balancers will come with a cup or cardboard scoop to help you measure.

While two horses may live together, they are likely to have different nutritional needs. (Image credit: Andrew Sydenham)

6. Feed your horse as an individual

When feeding your horse, consider bodyweight, temperament, age and workload. You may need a horse to lose weight or be trying to help a horse gain weight, while some horses need low-sugar and starch options to prevent excitability.

Horses working harder will need more energy and feeding performance horses is a particular art and science. Older horses will have different requirements, too.

When something changes, such as workload due to injury, you’ll need to reassess your horse’s nutritional needs. If you’re unsure what to feed your horse, seek advice from your vet, an independent nutritionist or free nutritional helpline.

7. Make any changes to the diet gradually

Making dietary changes over at least a week will help reduce the risk of digestive upsets, such as colic. This rules applies to making changes to your horse’s bucket feed as well as the type of forage, including grass.

Introduce small amounts of the new foodstuff gradually, while withdrawing the original feed component at the same rate if necessary. This helps your horse’s digestive system adapt to the changes and produce the correct microbes to break down the new food.

8. Avoid exercise for one hour after cereal-based meals

Horses are unable to digest cereal-based meals quickly, so you should not exercise them after giving a hard feed to allow them time to digest it. It is, however, beneficial to feed horses something fibre-based before exercise to reduce the risk of acid splash in the stomach, which could lead to gastric ulcers.

Horses love routine and will know when to expect food. (Image credit: Alamy)

9. Feed your horse at the same time each day

Horses are creatures of habit and thrive on a regular routine. Doing this helps reduce stress and is good for gut motility.

10. Ensure forage is the cornerstone of your horse’s diet

Horses have evolved to live on high fibre diets and good fibre levels will help to stimulate a healthy gut function and reduce the risk of digestive upsets.

Forage should be fed ad lib where possible – here’s more information on how much hay to feed a horse. If your horse struggles with traditional forage options due to poor dentition, check out the best forage replacers.

Enjoyed reading this? For more in-depth guidance on horse care, management and know-how, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

‘The feed room is where performance truly begins’: Vet explains the art and science of feeding performance horses

Ed Busuttil MRCVS — Sat, 28 Feb 2026 08:30:12 +0000

Fine-tuning a horse’s diet to the specific demands of his work aids optimum results. Ed Busuttil MRCVS outlines the science behind sport horse nutrition in this exclusive feature for H&H subscribers

In the competitive world of horse sport, feeding performance horses for marginal gains can make all the difference. Nutrition and how we feed horses is one of the most influential – and sometimes misunderstood – factors in a horse’s performance and health, often interlinked with managing medical and musculoskeletal conditions.

Whether you’re preparing a dressage horse for precision work, conditioning a showjumper for power or building stamina in an eventer, feeding performance horses correctly can mean the difference between a horse that just about performs at the level expected and one that excels.

This feature explores how workload, energy sources and modern feeding science come together to create a diet that supports fitness, recovery and soundness in the sport horse.

Feeding performance horses is both an art and a science. Two horses doing the same job may metabolise feed very differently, influenced by temperament, genetics and training routine. The goal is always the same: to provide enough of the right kind of energy to support performance without compromising health, temperament or gut function.

Feeding performance horses for workload

A horse in light work – perhaps hacking and schooling a few days a week – will have very different energy requirements to one galloping cross-country or jumping in several classes at a show.

Light work – a horse who does occasional schooling and hacking can usually be maintained on quality forage, perhaps with a low-energy feed balancer or small ration of cubes.

Moderate work – those whose work includes regular jumping, novice-level eventing or mid-level dressage will need more digestible energy and protein for muscle maintenance and recovery.

Heavy work – an animal who competes at an advanced level, or those whose work is polo, Flat racing or endurance, requires higher energy density and careful electrolyte management to support intense exercise and sweat losses.

Intense work – these are the horses who compete in elite endurance and eventing, and jump racing.

Based on the National Research Council guidelines, the energy requirement for horses are:

light work – 16.7MJ per 100 kg
moderate work – 19.5MJ per 100 kg
heavy work – 22.3MJ per 100 kg
intense work– 28.9MJ per 100 kg

These guidelines do not take into account the age and breed of the horse, which is why consulting with an independent nutritionist to carry out an individualised plan for your horse is essential.

The key is to feed appropriately for the work done. Overfeeding concentrates to a horse in light work can lead to excitability or digestive upset, while underfeeding an athlete in full training will cause weight loss, muscle wastage and reduced performance, increasing the risk of injury as stride length shortens.

How horses burn energy

As a horse exercises, it burns fuel consumed from their diet to produce energy, mainly through the aerobic and anaerobic metabolism systems.

Aerobic metabolism uses oxygen to convert carbohydrates and fats into energy. It’s the horse’s main energy system for longer, steadier exercise, such as dressage training, hacking or endurance training. It is efficient and produces minimal by-products that cause fatigue.

The energy used while hacking is produced by the aerobic system. (Image credit: Emma Herrod Photography)

Anaerobic metabolism comes into play when oxygen supply can’t keep up with demand during sprints, jumping rounds or the final centre line. The body relies on stored glycogen (a form of carbohydrate) within the muscles and liver and produces lactic acid when it is used, leading to fatigue if prolonged.

Most equestrian disciplines involve a blend of the two. Eventers, for example, rely on aerobic energy for dressage and stamina across phases, but also need anaerobic bursts for jumping and speed work. Understanding which system predominates helps determine what sort of energy your horse needs from its diet.

For sustained aerobic effort, such as that seen in endurance or extended schooling sessions, slow-release energy from fibre and fats is ideal. For short, explosive efforts, such as showjumping or racing, more rapidly available carbohydrates provide quick power.

The physical and nutritional demands of each sport vary widely. (Image credit: Getty Images)

Fuelling and feeding performance horses for different sports

Each sport demands a unique nutritional balance to support its predominant energy system.

Dressage: controlled, rhythmic work mainly utilises aerobic pathways. Diets rich in quality forage and oil-based calories promote calm, sustained energy without excess fizz.
Showjumping: combines stamina with short anaerobic bursts. Moderate starch levels, balanced with digestible fibre and oils, support both energy systems.
Eventing: the true all-rounder. A blend of fibre, oil and controlled starch fuels endurance and speed phases alike. Careful feeding before and after event days is key.
Endurance: almost entirely aerobic. High-fat, high-fibre diets improve fat metabolism and delay fatigue, while electrolytes and hydration strategies are vital.
Racing: high-intensity sprinting relies on glycogen oxidation to generate energy. Whereas anaerobic metabolism supplies up to 600m or 30% of the energy during a race, aerobic metabolism powers the rest.

It is also important to remember that racehorses are generally still growing and maturing, requiring extra energy. The caveat to this is that excess provision will predispose growing horses of any discipline to increased developmental orthopaedic disease and gastric ulceration risk, which may have welfare implications.

Water is the most essential nutrient. (Image credit: Getty Images)

The importance of water

Water is the most essential yet most often underestimated nutrient in the sport horse’s diet. A 500kg horse in light work may drink around 25–30 litres per day, but this can easily double or even triple during hard training or competition, especially in warm weather.

Fluid loss through sweat can be significant. A galloping horse may lose more than 10 litres per hour. Dehydration quickly impairs performance, concentration and recovery, while increasing the risk of impaction colic and tying-up.

Constant access to fresh, clean water is vital, both at home and when travelling. Horses can also receive a salt lick or measured daily salt in feed to encourage adequate drinking and maintain electrolyte balance. Monitoring drinking habits, urine output and skin elasticity offers useful clues to hydration status.

Where horses get energy from

Hydrolysable carbohydrates (starch and sugar)

Broken down in the small intestine into glucose, these fuel high-intensity work. However, when overfed, they can lead to digestive and behavioural problems – particularly equine gastric ulcer syndrome (EGUS).

Diets providing more than 2g of hydrolysable carbohydrates per kilogram of bodyweight per day markedly increase ulcer risk, as undigested starch ferments in the stomach, producing acid and gas.

The type of carbohydrate matters too, with feeds with a high glycaemic index, such as oats or corn, causing rapid spikes in blood glucose and insulin, which can make sharp horses sharper and may influence muscle metabolism and gastric stability. Note that a kilogram of oats and corn have approximately 600g and 700g of hydrolysable carbohydrates respectively.

Feeds with a lower glycaemic index, like rice bran, provide calories without the sharp sugar rush of cereals. It delivers steady, cool energy while helping maintain condition and topline, particularly valuable for horses prone to ulcers or excitability.

Fermentable carbohydrates (fibre)

Fibre is the cornerstone of every equine diet. Fibre from different types of forage, including hay, haylage, beet pulp and chaff is fermented in the hindgut into volatile fatty acids (VFAs), a slow-release energy source ideal for endurance and general work. Fibre also supports digestive motility and a healthy gut microbiome.

Replenishing the glycogen store after exercise is most efficiently done within the “glycogen window”, within one to two hours of anaerobic work. For every 1g of stored muscular glycogen, 3g of water is also required. Although hydrolysable carbohydrates can be a useful source of glycogen replenishment, fermentable carbohydrates such as soaked beet pulp provide the quickest refuelling without the subsequent energy spikes associated with hydrolysable carbohydrates.

Oils contain more than double the energy of carbohydrates. (Image credit: Andrew Sydenham)

Fats and oils

Fats are highly energy-dense (more than twice the energy of carbohydrates) and produce a calm, long-lasting energy source. Common oil options for horses include linseed, soya and rice bran.

Horses adapt to fat supplementation over several weeks, gradually improving their ability to both digest and use fat as a fuel. This is hugely beneficial for stamina and reducing lactic acid build-up.

The ratio of omega-3 (alpha-linoleic acid) to omega-6 (linoleic acid) is an important consideration, as omega-6 can be pro-inflammatory, as opposed to omega-3, which is anti-inflammatory.

The ratio of omega-3 to omega-6 is 1:6.5 and 4:1 in soya and linseed oil respectively, indicating that linseed oil is significantly less inflammatory, and soya oil may be pro-inflammatory.

The forage-to-concentrate ratio

Even elite equine athletes are grazing animals at heart. Forage must remain the foundation of the diet, for both digestive health and mental wellbeing.

Horses should receive at least 1.5% of bodyweight in dry matter daily (around 7.5kg for a 500kg horse). Most sport horses thrive on a 70:30 forage-to-concentrate ratio, though top performers with very high calorie needs may require a little more concentrate.

Regardless of discipline, forage must remain the foundation of a horse’s diet. (Image credit: Getty Images)

Reducing forage too much increases the risk of gastric ulcers, colic and stereotypical behaviours, such as weaving or crib-biting. High-quality hay or haylage, ideally analysed for nutrient content, ensures consistent energy and protein intake. Soaking and steaming hay may reduce protein content by approximately 30% and 40% respectively.

Feed sensitivities

Feed allergies, intolerances and sensitivities can affect performance. Signs include dull coat, poor condition, recurring skin irritation or digestive upset.

Blood tests and skin testing can now detect immune reactions to specific ingredients such as soy, molasses, linseed or alfalfa. While these tests can be informative, a controlled elimination diet may still be required.

For unlimited access to expert advice on how best to care for your horse, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

If your horse is underweight this expert advice for feeding poor-doers will set you safely on the right path

Bethany Stone — Tue, 24 Feb 2026 17:04:57 +0000

Need to know how to help a horse to gain weight? Whether it’s through age, type, illness or fussiness, some horses struggle to gain and keep on the pounds – and feeding horses like this can feel like an uphill battle.

Concerned owners should call their vet first to determine any underlying medical issues. It’s also wise to consult a qualified equine nutritionist for help tailoring your horse’s diet for weight gain.

It’s important to be sure your horse needs a significant increase in their body condition. Many horses in the UK are overweight and so your eye may be used to seeing horses that are fat, rather than fit. The glimpse of a rib or two coming into spring is healthy for most horses, so it is worth doing a body condition score check first before starting an active weight-gain programme.

Once you are confident your horse needs to gain weight, it’s not just what’s in the diet that counts. While feeding the best feeds for weight gain will usually have an impact, adjusting meal sizes, changing the types of forage the horse consumes, weighing feeds rather than guessing, and splitting feeds into smaller portions can also help a horse gain weight.

Looking for in-depth advice? Here are some helpful, practical tips from experts to help you tailor a poor-doer’s diet and optimise how you feed to make him gain weight.

How to make a horse gain weight: tips to help poor-doers

1. Consult your vet

“Remember that factors like stress, poor dentition, horse worm burdens or underlying health problems can also affect how well a horse maintains their weight,” says Katie Reeve, equine nutritionist at Dengie. “If your horse is struggling, it is worth contacting your vet.

“Speaking to an equine nutritionist is also helpful as they will be able to provide more tailored advice for your horse’s feed and forage.”

2. Underweight or undermuscled?

Louise Scott, senior nutritionist at D&H, explains that a horse’s muscle tone may give a false impression of their body condition. “Many horses lacking muscle and topline will look poor even if they have a healthy body fat level,” she explains.

“Conversely, some horses with a lack of topline and weak core muscles may have a dropped belly, making them look like an overweight horse even if they are underconditioned,” she continues.

“Take the time to assess topline and muscle tone, as well as rib cover and overall body condition score, before making any adjustments to your horse’s routine.”

She adds: “Calories are key to putting on body fat to support condition, so look for conditioning feeds that have a digestible energy content of 12MJ/kg or higher.”

Louise says that to support muscle development and topline, owners could focus on supplying adequate protein in the diet.

“Look for feeds with ingredients rich in quality protein, such as soya, or with added amino acids.”

3. Deliver more calories

Vanessa Allen, nutrition content manager at Spillers, reminds owners to ensure their poor-doers’ meals are calorie-dense.

“Oil is high in calories, relatively cheap, non-heating and starch- and sugar-free, so may be a useful addition,” she explains.

“With oil, 300ml is equivalent to 1kg of oats. Oil for horses should be introduced gradually, and it is advised to check with a nutrition specialist if you’re feeding more than 100ml per day.”

Katie of Dengie concurs. “If you’re interested in feeding fibre sources that are highly digestible, alfalfa and beet pulp are useful ingredients to look out for,” she says. “Using feeds that are low in sugar and starch is preferable for supporting gut health and helping your horse to get the most out of what you’re putting in.”

Horses who need to gain weight benefit from manageable, calorie-dense meals. Photo: Alamy/Paul Beard (Image credit: creditUnknown)

4. Investigate different energy source types

Emma Short, senior nutritionist at Baileys, encourages owners to be mindful of different energy source types – both what they are and how they work.

“The calories in quick-release sources are rapidly absorbed and readily available, so may not suit the fizziest types, but do work well for many horses,” she explains.

“Quick-release sources include carefully cooked cereals,” she adds. “They are used in higher-calorie horse feeds for weight gain because they are a highly digestible and concentrated source of extra calories for promoting weight gain.

“The starch they contain can increase acidity levels in the stomach, which may exacerbate gastric discomfort in the horses prone to gastric ulcers, however.”

On the other hand, slow-release energy sources include highly digestible fibres, known as “superfibres”, such as beet pulp, alfalfa and soya bean hulls, and vegetable oils.

“They provide more than twice as many calories as the same weight of cereals,” says Emma, and these are more suited to feeding horses prone to ulcers.

She adds: “Many conditioning and competition feeds now contain energy sources which take longer to digest and absorb into the bloodstream and do not exacerbate excitability, so are ideal for fizzy, stressy horses.”

5. Consider gut health as a whole

Some horses seem to eat well, but don’t gain weight as expected.

“Supporting the whole digestive system, from encouraging saliva production and helping to manage stomach acidity, through to supporting nutrient absorption in the small intestine, can make a real difference,” shares Jane Bansted, customer experience and advocacy manager at NAF.

She adds that adding an appropriate gastric supplement or gut balancer could be helpful. “Nourishing the hindgut with prebiotics, probiotics and postbiotics helps maintain a healthy microbial balance, supports efficient fibre digestion, and ultimately allows the horse to get more from the diet they’re already eating.”

6. Consider your forage – and forage alternatives

Emma Short of Baileys says the texture of your forage could hold information about its nutritional value. “Choose soft, leafy forage – hay or haylage should be clean and sweet smelling, but feel it in your hand and look for the least stalky bales.

“The stalkier the grass when it was harvested, the less digestible it is,” she continues. “So, try to find softer hay or haylage, with a higher leaf content, which will also be more nutritious and reduce the amount of additional calories that will need to come from bucket feed.”

If your horse is not a good hay or haylage eater, Emma suggests providing some alternatives, such as one of the best hay replacers. “Adding additional fibre sources in separate buckets alongside his forage to browse on and increase your horse’s overall fibre intake.

“This will supply some extra calories from digestible fibre but will also help ensure that gut health and digestive efficiency are optimised so that the system can make the most of the whole diet.”

Horses who need to gain weight should eat at least 2% of their body weight in forage daily on a dry matter basis. Photo: Alamy/Caroline Burton (Image credit: creditUnknown)

7. What is ad lib really?

D&H’s Louise Scott acknowledges that feeding forage ad lib is best, but staying informed is even better. “Giving forage ad lib allows horses to self-regulate how much they want to eat,” she begins.

“However, it is important to be aware of how much you have provided, especially if your horse is underconditioned or your horses share access to forage, so you can notice if your horse is not eating enough or if there are any changes in his eating habits.”

Calculating how much hay to feed a horse depends on a few factors.

“Horses that need to gain condition should ideally receive around 2% of their total bodyweight in forage each day on a dry matter basis,” says Louise. “Dry matter refers to the amount of water in the forage and differs depending on whether you feed hay or haylage.

“Haylage contains more water than hay, so you need to feed more haylage to provide the same dry matter than if you were feeding hay.”

So, how much do you actually need to feed? “For a 500kg horse, 2% is equal to 10kg of forage on a dry matter basis. If you feed hay which is around 85% dry matter, this means feeding 12 kilos of fresh hay each day.”

The table below demonstrates the approximate fresh weight of hay or haylage you would need to feed daily, depending on your horse’s weight. Weighing haynets is easy to do with a handheld luggage scale (like this one on Amazon).

Horse’s weight	Hay	Haylage
300kg	7kg	9kg
400kg	9kg	12kg
500kg	12kg	15kg
600kg	14kg	18kg

8. Know your bucket feed size

Vanessa suggests being clear on bucket feed weight, too. She adds that it’s good practice to weigh all your horse’s feeds to make sure you’re feeding the correct amount, and know how much your scoop holds.

“Keep meal sizes small, no more than 2kg per meal for a 500kg horse,” she advises.

“Feed three or more meals if you need to feed more than 4kg per day. Horses don’t digest large meals so efficiently; feeding large quantities may cause other issues or simply waste money.

“Smaller meals can be useful for tempting fussy horses – large meals can be overwhelming.”

Weighing your horse’s forage takes the guesswork out of calculating how much he has eaten. Photo: Alamy/Johner Images (Image credit: creditUnknown)

How to help a horse gain weight quickly

According to H&H veterinary consultant Karen Coumbe, those with concerns about their horse’s weight and body condition are likely to benefit from a second opinion before rushing to feed him up quickly.

“Owners who see their horses every day can find it hard to perceive changes in their horses’ weight in either direction, or simply become used to how the horse looks,” she explains.

In Karen’s experience, the average leisure horse owner’s opinion on body condition differs from the average professional competitor. This depends on many factors, especially discipline, but what really matters is that weight and body condition are appropriate to the individual horse.

“When I’m working with racehorses, you can admire almost every bit of muscle on them,” she continues. “They’re built for speed, so there’s barely an ounce of excess fat there.”

Although the average horse owner does not own a racing thoroughbred, Karen adds that horses generally benefit from being on the leaner side.

However, if you’re worried about a very thin or emaciated horse, consult your vet and/or a professional nutritionist to avoid the dangers of refeeding syndrome.

“Certainly very thin horses are better fed back up slowly,” she says. “When we start to think about getting horses to gain weight quickly, it can be dangerous.”

Karen cautions against an immediately calorie-dense diet, adding an influx of volume and energy to bucket and forage at once. This can unbalance a horse’s fat metabolism, or the ability to break down and store fat, and do far more harm than good.

Abrupt changes to the diet can also contribute to gastrointestinal conditions, such as colic, or inflammatory diseases, such as laminitis. Gradual weight gain, therefore, is safest – find out more about how long it takes for a horse to gain weight.

“A golden rule is to work a horse ahead of his feed,” she adds. “This helps avoid problems such as tying up (exertional rhabdomyolysis, or azoturia).

For unlimited access to advice on how best to care for your horse, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

Beyond the bale: thinking outside the box to ensure our horses have the forage they need

Eleanor Jones — Sat, 21 Feb 2026 16:53:16 +0000

Equestrians may have to start thinking outside the box when it comes to alternative forage sources for horses, scientists have suggested, if recent weather trends are here to stay.

Last summer’s low hay yield in some parts of the country, followed by a dry summer and very wet late winter, have created problems for many owners and yards.

Possible ways of coping with this situation, should it become the norm, will be discussed at a public lecture at the Royal Agricultural University (RAU) in Cirencester on 25 February.

“Researchers in the equine industry are now keen to develop a greater understanding of the forages we feed our horses, as well as to look into alternative forages and new feeds, both of which they believe will be essential in order to be able to manage horses sustainably into the future,” an RAU spokesperson said.

The lecture will be led by Simon Daniels, RAU associate professor of equine science, and his former colleague Meriel Moore-Colyer, now professor of equine science at Hartpury University.

Professor Moore-Colyer has been studying haylage for some 35 years and in more recent years, she and Dr Daniels have been part of a research group looking into forage.

“There are ways we can think imaginatively around this problem, but I would think haylage might become a crop that’s a bit more used, and that we can conserve within our climate,” she said. “You can conserve it earlier, when we still have a bit of moisture; we were still getting quite a lot of rainfall in April, and that’s when they can start making haylage and silage.”

Professor Moore-Colyer said this earlier harvesting could be more productive than waiting for hay to grow in a dry late spring and early summer.

Alternative forage sources for horses

Dr Daniels said that horses will always need forage, and the key may be considering different forage options.

“We have colleagues in Germany, for example, who have been looking at different approaches. They’ve been making more alfalfa hay at some studs, because it’s something they can grow and conserve. I think probably, going forward, we might have to think a bit differently if we’re going to keep having years of variable weather.”

Dr Daniels said he would like to “bust some myths” about haylage; some owners think it is more acidic so should not be fed to horses prone to ulcers. But, he explained, the saliva produced by chewing means the haylage is not acidic by the time it reaches the stomach.

“If there’s lots of water-soluble carbohydrate in the haylage that might ferment in the stomach, that we don’t know the answer to, but I think owners worry that haylage is acidic, so not suitable for horses with gastric ulcers, but actually we don’t truly know that, and if they’re chewing well, it might not be a problem.

“People are obviously concerned about a lack of forage, but maybe we do have forage options available, but we’re not truly exploring.

“Mariel did some work, years ago, feeding ponies silage. It might not be the most appropriate, but we do have forage sources we could probably explore better, that we know we can conserve, but we’re very hay focused, because that’s what’s always done.”

Nutritional value

Another issue both scientists are interested in is nutrient quality of forage; if this is better, it could mean less need for concentrated feed.

“We need people to understand a bit more about the energy they can get from forage, and we need better analysis,” Dr Daniels said, adding that this is an area his team is looking into.

Professor Moore-Colyer agreed that alfalfa could help here too; analysis has shown it is a very good source of crude protein.

“So that’s something; mix alfalfa with haylage and you have a balanced diet,” she said. “And we can grow good alfalfa in this country.”

Both scientists agreed that the key is to start thinking differently.

“We’re not saying ‘You need to change everything’,” Professor Moore-Colyer said. “We’re just suggesting a little shift here, a little shift there. It’s not saying ‘I can’t feed hay again’; you might be able to feed a bit of hay and a bit of something else, so that’s going to be our message.”

The lecture starts at 6.30pm on 25 February and tickets are available online.

To stay up to date with all the breaking equestrian news throughout 2026, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

How to weigh a horse –and why it’s so important

Bethany Stone — Wed, 18 Feb 2026 13:33:36 +0000

Weighing a horse accurately isn’t usually that easy; most yards aren’t equipped with an equine equivalent to bathroom scales, which would make things much easier. Nevertheless, knowing how to weigh a horse – or how to work out if they sit within their ideal weight range – is an important equine management skill.

There are three standard methods for determining a horse’s weight: applying a weight estimation formula, using a weigh tape, or a weighbridge. Below, we’ll explore how these methods work and their pros and cons with expert input.

Why is weighing horses important?

Katie Reeve, an equine nutritionist at Dengie, highlights several reasons to have an accurate picture of your horse’s weight – including how much hay to feed your horse.

“Having an accurate weight for your horse helps to ensure they are receiving enough forage in their diet,” she says. “This is particularly helpful if they are on a restricted ration to help promote weight loss.

“Once the horse’s weight is known, we can then calculate 1.5% of their bodyweight to ensure there is enough fibre in their ration. It can also help ensure you feed the correct quantity of products like feed balancers to provide the horse with the vitamins and minerals they need.”

Katie adds that knowing your horse’s weight is helpful for practical reasons, too.

“Knowing your horse’s weight ensures correct dosage for deworming and medication or making sure you aren’t exceeding the payload in your horsebox.”

How much should my horse weigh?

You can find weight estimations on the back of feed bags, but a good indicator that your horse is in the right weight range is having an optimal body condition score. In the UK, body condition score is measured on a scale of 0–5. An optimally healthy horse scores between two and three.

“Knowing your horse’s body condition score is arguably more important than the number on the scales,” says Katie. “It tells you if your horse is carrying a healthy amount of bodyweight or if they are overweight or underweight.”

Katie gives the example of two horses, both 500kg, one with an optimal body condition score of 3/5 and other 5/5.

“Although the two horses weigh exactly the same, the first horse has a much healthier body condition score and the second is very overweight,” she says.

“In this instance, it is the body condition score that tells us how healthy the horse actually is and if there are any changes that need to be implemented in their ration.”

Weigh tape readings are not accurate, but can give an indicator as to how a horse’s weight fluctuates. (Image credit: Alamy/Susan Norwood)

How to estimate a horse’s weight

There’s a formula you can use that’s designed to estimate a horse’s weight – you just need a calculator, a long measuring tape with centimetres, and possibly a helper.

The two measurements you need to know are:

Your horse’s heart girth (the distance around the whole torso behind the elbows), and;
Your horse’s body length from the point of shoulder to the point of buttock.

Then, the formula you use to calculate the weight in kilograms is:

(Heart girth (cm) x heart girth (cm)) x body length (cm) ÷ 11877

While useful as a guide, there are flaws the formula, such as the fact that doesn’t take body condition into account. It is most useful when used alongside a weighbridge so the figures can be compared.

How to use a weigh tape

“Weigh tapes [like this one available on Amazon] are very useful for tracking weight, especially when used regularly,” says Vanessa Allen, nutritionist at Spillers. “We suggest weekly for those who need their weight monitoring for gains or losses.

“They may not be accurate, but are a useful guide and confirm if your horse’s weight is going in the right direction.”

Step by step

Emma Short, senior nutritionist at Baileys, says…

Make sure your horse is standing square – bearing in mind some horses can be nervous on their first weigh tape encounter.
On their near side, keep the end of the tape in your right hand and pass the rest of the tape over the horse’s back, behind the withers.
The tape needs to sit where the girth normally goes, just behind the front legs. It should be pulled snug to depress the flesh very slightly.
Read the weight by overlapping the tape and taking the measurement at the arrow.

Pros and cons of weigh tapes

While weightaping is quick, convenient and home-based, it can’t be relied upon as an accurate measure.

“In overweight horses, weigh tapes typically slightly underestimate bodyweight,” says Emma. “This is because the tape does not account for any fatty deposits over the neck or around the tailhead.

“Body length is also not accounted for on the tape, so horses with longer backs may come up slightly lighter on the tape.”

Katie adds that a combination of measures can work best. “In an ideal situation, you should weigh tape your horse at the same time as using the weighbridge,” she explains.

“You can then use the weigh tape more frequently to easily monitor the horse’s weight in between weighbridge sessions.”

Horses must stand perfectly still on a calibrated weigh bridge to record an accurate weight. (Image credit: Bex Pattenden)

How to weigh a horse with a weighbridge

You can weigh your horse at a public weighbridge, or some feed companies and vets have portable devices to bring along to yard visits.

“Using a weighbridge will always be the most accurate reading for your horse,” says Katie. “It should be used alongside regular body condition scoring and weigh tape readings to monitor fluctuations.”

Some weigh tapes also have a scale to measure your horse’s height.

Step by step

Topspec’s veterinary nutritionist Anna Welch says…

If using a portable scale, position the weighbridge on a firm, flat, level surface with a straight, unobstructed approach and exit.
Calibrate or sense-check the weighbridge with a known weight, such as a bag of feed or a full water container.
Approach confidently with your horse, like you would a trailer ramp. Look ahead, allowing him time to investigate, sniff and pause if needed.
For an accurate reading, your horse should be straight, centred, and standing completely still on the weighbridge. If he becomes anxious, it may help to step off and re-approach.

Weighbridges must be calibrated before use. (Image credit: Bex Pattenden)

Using a weighbridge for the first time

Vanessa says she has weighed thousands of horses, and of those only a handful refused to go on.

“Even if they have a little snort or are suspicious to start with, if the owner is confident and walks straight across it their horse will usually just follow,” she says.

“Some owners will walk around it and their horses follow them, seeing the weighbridge as something to avoid.”

Vanessa says it takes only a couple of seconds to register the weight, so a well-handled horse should be fine after a couple of practice runs.

“I’d recommend owners follow instructions from the nutrition advisor who brings the weighbridge,” she continues. “We’re really experienced and genuinely know all the tips if a horse is shy to start with.”

Pros and cons of using a weighbridge

Anna says as well as providing greater accuracy than a weigh tape, it means you can be sure you’re supporting your horse with an accurate feeding and worming programme, and precise doses of medication too.

“Limitations include limited access to a weighbridge, which makes regular monitoring a challenge,” she adds. “Errors can occur due to uneven footing and failing to zero the weighbridge, and accurate readings depend on your horse standing completely still.”

Anna says the biggest error owners can make is ignoring body condition because the weight in kilos seems acceptable.

“When weighing your horse, make sure you replicate the conditions,” she says. “For example, if you ride to a weighbridge and weigh your horse in his saddle, make sure to do the same next time.”

For unlimited access to advice on how best to care for your horse, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

Horse feed recalled: manufacturer confirms ‘no harmful substance present’

Eleanor Jones — Fri, 06 Feb 2026 17:41:07 +0000

Horse feed manufacturer Allen & Page has published full details of its Fast Fibre product recall announced this week, stressing that this was a “precautionary measure”, and there is “no evidence of a harmful substance being present”.

Allen & Page announced on Tuesday (3 February) that two specific batches of Fast Fibre had been recalled; batch number 14/01/26 with a best before date of 04/05/26 and batch number 15/01/26 with a best before date of 05/05/26.

The horse feed manufacturer explained that this was because linseed levels in some bags from these two batches were higher than intended.

“While not every bag within these batches is affected, the decision was taken to recall the entirety of the two identified batches as a precautionary measure,” a spokesperson said.

The batch number is on the right-hand side of the label sewn in to the bottom of each bag of the feed, and no other batches nor Allen & Page products are included in the recall.

“The affected batches are not toxic, are not contaminated, and are not a clean sport or NOPS [naturally occurring prohibited substance] issue,” the spokesperson said. “There is no evidence of a harmful substance being present.”

Fast Fibre recall

Allen & Page has advised anyone who has been feeding horses from an affected bag to stop doing so and dispose of the feed.

“Monitor your equine, as usual, for appetite and water intake, manure and urination, attitude and behaviour etc, if you notice any changes please contact us,” the spokesperson said.

“Increased linseed can affect equines differently. If you would like to discuss your horse’s health, please contact us directly so we can support you.”

The spokesperson added that feed stockists have been told of the affected batches so will be able to confirm whether bags they supplied were affected. Some of the feed concerned may appear darker, and feel stickier or more “gloopy” than is normal.

“If you purchased Fast Fibre after 16 January and notice unusual colour or a stickier mash once soaked, please do not feed it and contact us directly,” the spokesperson said. “If you purchased Fast Fibre before 16 January, your feed is unaffected and safe to feed.

“Although the ingredient is linseed, please do not feed Fast Fibre from the affected batches. Dispose of the feed and retain the label or receipt as proof of purchase, if you have it. A full refund is available through your stockist.”

For any more advice, call Allen & Page on 01362 822902.

To stay up to date with all the breaking equestrian news throughout 2026, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

Want to save money on feed? We asked equine nutrition experts and industry specialists for their best tips

Bethany Stone — Fri, 16 Jan 2026 12:28:19 +0000

I don’t have to tell you that keeping horses is an expensive hobby; you already know! From farriery and veterinary needs to physio and feed, the bills are frequent and many-figured – and we all want to save money on these costs. On the subject of feed, 2025’s low hay yield squeezed many owners’ fodder budgets, but is it possible to save money on horse feed? “Yes”, is the short answer, but you should ensure you save with care and without compromising on quality.

Keen to discover more? We asked equine nutrition experts and industry specialists for their top tips on how to save money on horse feed. Find out how it’s possible below.

How to spend less on horse feed

As Jade Bensted, customer experience and advocacy manager at NAF, says, smart feeding is about meeting needs, not filling buckets.

“When every ingredient has a purpose, every scoop truly counts,” she says.

With this in mind, here are five ways to help you save money on feed…

1. Feed by weight, not by scoop

Scoops are convenient, but rarely accurate.

“Feeds vary widely in density,” continues Jade. “So, a scoop can weigh far more or less than expected.

“Over time, small overfeeds soon add up in both condition and cost.”

Jade says that weighing feeds not only ensures consistency and avoids wasted nutrition, but it can also highlight when a horse is being fed below recommended levels of a compound feed.

“In these cases, supplements play a valuable role, helping to fill nutritional gaps. As supplements are designed to deliver precise levels of key nutrients, feeding the correct amount ensures your horse gets the intended benefits and keeps the ration balanced.”

She adds that feed should be kept in sealed containers and out of direct sunlight so your horse can keep feeling the full nutritional benefits.

Storing feed in open bags can compromise its nutritional value. Photo: Andrew Sydenham (Image credit: creditUnknown)

2. Feed your forage effectively

According to Vanessa Allen, nutritional content manager at Spillers, around 30% of forage can end up on the muck heap.

“If your horse is one to trash his bedding, haynets and slow feeders can help stop your forage mixing in,” she says.

She also recommends weighing out forage before feeding – you can do this easily with a luggage weigher (like this one on Amazon).

“It may seem like an extra chore, but it could really help you reduce waste and be more consistent with how much your horse really needs. This is especially true of good-doers.”

Feeding hay from the floor has its benefits, but it can also lead to waste. Photo: Lucy Merrell (Image credit: creditUnknown)

3. Keep the feed size manageable

Remember to keep the weight of your horse’s meals under the equivalent of 0.5kg per 100kg of bodyweight, which would equate to 2.5kg for a 500kg horse. You’ll need to weigh your horse first.

“Overfeeding results in your horse not being able to digest everything that is in the bucket, leading to an expensive muck heap, or worse, digestive upset,” says Baileys senior nutritionist, Emma Short.

Additionally, consider the amount of chaff or chop that is added to your horse’s compound feed. “A small amount is ideal for encouraging efficient chewing, but if your horse is a good fibre eater and gets ad lib forage, they may not need the extra fibre provided by additional chaff,” continues Emma.

“Conversely, poor fibre eaters may benefit from additional alternative fibre sources such as a chaff or a partial or full hay replacer fed alongside their forage as ‘haynets in buckets’. This encourages natural foraging behaviour and an overall increase in fibre intake.

“A healthy fibre intake not only supplies calories but also ensures healthy gut function and improved digestive efficiency so that the horse can make the most of the rest of the diet.”

4. Streamline your feed bucket

Vanessa says that now is an ideal time to re-evaluate your horse’s bucket ration and seek advice.

“We often come across owners who add a bit of this and a splash of that to their horse’s bucket,” she comments. “All these added extras can add up to a very expensive meal.

“Nutrition specialists like ours can help you simplify your horse’s ration to ensure you make savings while still achieving a balanced diet. You might achieve this with all-in-one feed balancers, for example, or by feeding a chaff that includes vitamins and minerals alongside a smaller hard feed ration.

“You’ll still meet your horse’s needs, just in a more budget-friendly way.”

Some horses do not need every powder and pellet in their bucket, while for others it’s a great benefit. Photo: Andrew Sydenham (Image credit: creditUnknown)

5. Don’t compromise on excellence in nutrition

Dr Marga Mas-Fiol MRCVS, D&H’s head of veterinary equine health and performance, advises that working out your feed bag’s cost per day will help you track your bill accurately.

She says it can be tempting to consider feeding cheaper alternatives in order to spend less on horse feed.

“However, it is important to remember that these feeds may not fulfil your horse’s nutritional requirements,” she continues. “This can result in you needing to feed more, or needing to spend more on additional supplements to compensate.

She adds that understanding your horse’s nutritional needs against the ingredients in the feed will help you to make more informed choices.

“Most feed brands have free nutritional helplines with experts at the end of the phone to help you come to the right decision for your horse.

“In addition to ensuring that your horse is being fed on quality ingredients, it is also worth looking deeper than just the price of your bag. Feed tends to come in sizes anywhere between 15–25kg with the smaller sizes appearing to offer better value for money.

“However, this isn’t always the case. With the higher-cost feeds, you often feed less and deliver the same, if not better, nutritional benefits.”

For unlimited access to advice on how best to care for your horse, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

How to feed a horse on box rest to maintain health and aid recovery

Ed Busuttil MRCVS — Sat, 20 Dec 2025 08:30:56 +0000

Equine vet Edward Busuttil MRCVS helps explain how to feed the resting horse to aid recovery and maintain welfare

Understanding how to feed a horse on box rest is a challenge for horse owners that requires the horse’s nutritional requirements to be balanced with their welfare needs. An effective feeding strategy must reduced the horse’s calories while continuing to support their digestive, immune and psychological health. Accurate weight estimation, careful energy management and thoughtful forage preparation are key to avoiding complications.

As box rest for horses is normally linked to an injury or illness, feeding for recovery involves more than simply reducing the food ration – it means using nutrition as a tool to preserve wellbeing, reduce stress and promote healing. Careful planning and regular monitoring can help horses on box rest to recover safely and comfortably and return to health with fewer setbacks.

How to feed a horse on box rest

Stabled horses are denied natural behaviours such as grazing, walking and socialising. This can lead to stereotypies like crib-biting, weaving or box walking, alongside signs of anxiety and boredom. Physically, reduced movement can result in weight gain, muscle loss, a slowing of the digestive tract and gastric ulcers.

Nutrition plays a critical role in mitigating these effects – an appropriate feeding plan must address both reduced energy demands and support mental and digestive health.

Accurate body weight estimation is essential for planning a suitable diet. It guides forage allocation, nutrient intake and tracking of weight changes. The gold standard is a weighbridge, but most owners use weigh tapes (like this one) or body measurements. Consider clipping a couple of patches to ensure that your weigh tape consistently passes through the same areas, to avoid artificially “changing” your horse’s weight.

An often used formula is: Weight (kg) = (heart girth² × body length) / 11,880

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

Although not exact, it provides a useful estimate for monitoring trends over time. Fluctuations in weight, particularly when a horse is on box rest for an extensive period of time, should not be too concerning as muscle mass decreases and posture changes also result in slight changes with your measurements.

Assessing their body condition score could be equally beneficial – ideally, you should be able to feel your horse’s ribs when running your hands along their side, but not be able to see them.

Keep a weekly diary so you’re able to make regular, small tweaks, decreasing the risks of stress and colic associated with sudden alterations to the diet.

With reduced physical activity, energy requirements drop. According to NRC (National Research Council) guidelines, horses need 12.5–15.2MJ of digestible energy (DE) per 100kg body weight daily. Therefore, a 500kg horse typically needs 62.5–76MJ/day under maintenance conditions, but those on box rest often require less. Good-doers may need further reductions to avoid weight gain.

Feeding even slightly more than needed can cause unwanted weight increases, especially with calorie-dense forage types or unnecessary concentrates.

How to support normal gut function on box rest

Fibre plays an essential role when feeding a horse on box rest. It maintains healthy gut function, limits digestive issues like impaction colic and ulcers and, as a long-lasting food source, supports mental wellbeing. A horse’s digestive system slows with reduced movement, so continuous fibre intake – as forage, like hay or haylage – is crucial to keep the gut moving.

Fibre also helps satisfy the horse’s natural urge to chew, reducing boredom and stress while confined. Providing adequate, good-quality fibre is key to keeping a box-rested horse healthy physically and mentally. Forage analysis is available to check quality, and this may be particularly useful in cases of long-term box rest when a consistent hay source will be provided. Poor-quality hay can contain dust and mould, which may trigger or worsen equine asthma.

Soaking hay reduces dust and water-soluble carbohydrates (WSC), helping manage laminitis or weight gain risk, but also leaches minerals like calcium, and palatability and hygienic quality are reduced if hay is soaked for too long. Long soaking (six to eight hours) can encourage microbial growth, especially in warm weather. Soaking and repeatedly lifting and submerging hay for 20 minutes can effectively reduce WSC.

Steaming hay preserves more nutrients than soaking and kills mould spores, bacteria and dust mites. (Image credit: Peter Nixon)

Steaming hay at over 90°C using a commercial hay steamer effectively kills mould spores, bacteria and dust mites, improving respiratory safety. Steaming preserves more nutrients than soaking but does alter protein structure, reducing digestibility. Total crude protein remains stable, but digestible protein may drop by more than 40%, which may require dietary adjustments.

A constant supply of clean fresh water should always be available, alongside a high-forage diet. When temperatures drop, adding some hot water to water buckets may increase the amount the horse drinks. Providing water in buckets for horses on box res, rather than using automatic drinkers, will allow their intake can be monitored.

Avoiding gastric ulcers during box rest

Box rest greatly raises the risk of equine gastric ulcer syndrome, driven by stress and amplified by improper feeding practices. Horses are continuous grazers with stomachs that secrete acid constantly. Without regular forage, stomach acid can damage the unprotected, non-glandular part of the stomach.

To mitigate this, horses should have constant access to low-calorie forage to promote chewing and saliva production, which helps buffer stomach acid. Concentrates, especially high-starch feeds, should be avoided when feeding a horse on box rest.

Alfalfa, with its high calcium content, can help buffer stomach acid. Different companies provide alfalfa chaffs of various flavours to provide food-based enrichment. Alternatively, straw-based chaffs are also available, rich in fibre and low in energy. Unmolassed sugar beet provides digestible fibre and natural pectin and lecithin, which soothe the stomach lining and support gut health in ulcer-prone horses.

Read more about feeding horses to avoid gastric ulcers.

How to feed a good-doer on box rest

With horses that tend to maintain or gain weight easily, the lack of exercise associated with box rest can lead to significant increase in their body condition. It is important to reduce their calorie intact while continuing to provide the essential nutrition to maintain health. This is a necessity with cases where horses are confined owing to laminitis or where horses have an diagnosed with metabolic issues, such as PPID and EMS.

In addition to feeding soaked hay, having hay tested will help owners chose a forage that is low in WSC and therefore less likely to result in weight gain. Feeding forage using small-holed haynets and slow feeders to make the hay ration last as long as possible is also recommended.

Feed balancers can be really useful when feeding a good-doer. Including a feed balancer when feeding a horse on box rest – or vitamin and mineral supplement – alongside a straw-based chaff will ensure the horse receives all the micro nutrients needed during their period of recovery without any extra calories.

How to maintain body condition during box rest

If your horse is a more highly strung type, who struggles with confinement and is likely to worry their weight off during a period of box rest, forage should still be the primary feed source. Good quality hay fed ad-lib, ideally in multiple feed stations located at different heights around the stable, will encourage the horse’s natural foraging instinct and serve to provide enrichment.

Feeding ad-lib hay from different heights including the floor can help encouraging foraging. (Image credit: Lucy Merrell)

If additional calories are required to maintain condition, a fibre- and oil-based concentrate feed will provide extra calories without the risk of disrupting the horse’s gut by feeding starch. High fibre and oil conditioning feeds are also less likely to encourage undesired excitable behaviour when the horse needs to rest. Adding a digestive feed supplement will also help the horse to get the most out of the nutrition provided.

How to promote healing on box rest

Horses recovering from trauma may need more protein in their diet, but most on box rest benefit from moderate-protein hay (under 10%) and diets tailored to actual needs. Alfalfa is a high-protein forage (over 15%) and may increase urination if fed in excess.

Excess protein in a low-exercise diet can lead to increased urea production and higher urinary output. This results in wetter bedding, stronger ammonia odour and possible irritation to the respiratory tract and hooves. If your horse experiences increased urination, wood shavings can provide a far more absorbent bed than straw – but this does not negate the need for frequent mucking out and hoof care.

How to reduce boredom

Box rest restricts natural foraging behaviour, which can increase stress and boredom. Gustatory enrichment – food-based mental stimulation – can reduce frustration and support digestive health.

Boredom can be a problem for horses on box rest. (Image credit: Andrew Sydenham)

Offering forage in multiple small nets around the stable, changing hay types or using slow feeders can promote engagement. Low-sugar treats like swede or celery, or hay-based, low-sugar licks, provide sensory stimulation without excess calories. These strategies mimic natural feeding patterns and improve mental wellbeing, keeping horses happier and healthier when stabled.

You can also consider purchasing hay blocks with chamomile (like this one) or making ice blocks with shredded carrot and apple during the warmer months of the year.

There are a range of stable toys and other boredom busters for horses available to help entertain your horse during a period of enforced rest.

How to avoid respiratory problems

Stabled horses are at increased risk of developing respiratory issues, particularly if ventilation is poor or the environment is dusty. Conditions such as recurrent airway obstruction (RAO), commonly known as heaves, can be exacerbated during prolonged periods indoors.

The choice of bedding type and forage is particularly important. Traditional straw can be dusty and should be replaced with low-dust alternatives such as cardboard, paper or high-quality shavings, including lavender-scented brands.

Plenty of air important for horses on box rest. (Image credit: Emma Herrod Photography)

Hay should be soaked or steamed to reduce airborne particles and haylage may be a suitable alternative for some horses. Stable ventilation must be optimised without creating drafts. Open doors, high windows and the use of fans (when safe) can help improve airflow, as well as cleaning away cobwebs and bird nests.

Ammonia build-up from urine is another concern, as it can irritate the airways. Frequent mucking out, and the use of absorbent bedding, can help reduce exposure.

Supplements for a horse on box rest

Targeted feed supplements for horses can support recovery in certain cases:

● digestive supplements with prebiotics and yeast support hindgut health, particularly if antibiotics have been used or if diet changes occur

● ulcer-prone horses may benefit from gastric supplements that contain gastroprotective agents such as lecithin, pectin and buffering compounds, although veterinary treatment may also be required

● omega-3 fatty acids from linseed oil or marine sources support joint and immune function

● vitamin E supplementation is often necessary during periods of box rest, as horses have reduced access to fresh forage. Vitamin E (as d-alpha-tocopherol) is a key antioxidant supporting muscle function, immunity and recovery. Deficiency can lead to stiffness or even neurological signs

● respiratory supplements can also help maintain respiratory health if your horse is at risk of respiratory disease. This can come in the form of omega-3s, MSM (methylsulfonylmethane; which decreases upper airway inflammation) and marshmallow root (which may help to reduce mucus build-up in the lungs)

Knowing how to feed a horse on box rest can be a challenge, but by making the right decisions you can help keep your horse happy and healthy during this period of enforced rest.

If you’re still unsure about feeding a horse on box rest, then we recommend speaking to an independent equine nutritionist. To find a nutrition specialist, visit the British Equestrian Trade Association’s equine nutritionist and feed advisor register.

For more expert advice on caring for your horse in the best possible way, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

New register to help owners seek feeding advice from trusted sources

Lucy Elder — Sun, 07 Dec 2025 17:49:12 +0000

Do you really know who you are getting your horse’s feeding advice from? A new register of equine nutritionists and feed advisors has been launched to give owners confidence that the information they are seeking comes from a trusted source.

The British Equestrian Trade Association’s (BETA) Equine Nutritionist and Feed Adviser Register (ENFAR) aims to “promote the highest standards of evidence-based feeding advice for horse owners and the wider industry”.

The project has been led by Dr Katie Williams, of Dengie Horse Feeds, and developed by BETA’s feed committee.

ENFAR has two categories: feed advisers and equine nutritionists. Each person accepted onto the register has committed to engage in continuing professional development and to ENFAR’s code of best practice.

Both advisers and nutritionists must also complete a series of online assessments before they are accepted.

“The assessment process is designed to ensure that everyone is in the right category and be rigorous enough to ensure a minimum standard of competency and knowledge,” said Claire Williams, BETA’s executive director.

“The assessments include technical skills and knowledge, but are also looking at how effectively someone can communicate. Ultimately, we want to be sure that the candidate can advise effectively.”

A BETA spokesperson explained that currently the profession of equine nutritionist has no protected status, which means anyone can call themselves a nutritionist regardless of their qualifications or experience.

“Inevitably this means a lot of advice is of a very poor quality, which has the potential to be detrimental to equine welfare and damage the credibility of those operating professionally,” added the BETA spokesperson.

Dr Katie Williams said that the idea behind ENFAR is to “recognise those who are doing a good job and who horse owners can trust”.

“What I love about the register is that anyone who is giving advice on feeding and nutrition can apply, so ultimately it will help to raise standards across lots of different equestrian professions including veterinary personnel, bodyworkers and coaches,” she said.

The register is live on the BETA website at https://beta-uk.org/enfar-directory/ and professionals wishing to join can also apply online.

To stay up to date with all the breaking news from major shows throughout the year, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

16 gut balancers on the market – and how to choose the best for your horse

Franchesca Slack — Tue, 18 Nov 2025 14:59:57 +0000

Digestive supplements and gut balancers for horses support the digestive system to help them cope with a number of transitions throughout the year, such as increased turnout in the spring, change of grazing quality in the winter or the introduction of a different type of forage to the diet. These changes can leave some horses’ digestive systems struggling, leading to a reduction in efficiency, loose droppings and other digestive upsets.

Often containing soothing herbs as well as pre- and probiotics, these supplements aim to maintain a healthy digestive system and promote a normal population of bacteria to make sure your horse is getting the most out of what he eats while keeping him comfortable.

Best gut balancers for horses: what are your options?

Here is a selection of the best gut balancers for horses that are currently available, including the manufacturers’ descriptions of their products…

NB: Cost per day has been calculated using the maintenance measure for a 500kg horse in light work (where there was variation) and the RRP of the smallest available tub. Some products require loading measures and some horses will require a higher daily measure, which will increase the cost per day, while buying a larger tub will likely decrease it – these costs per day are a guide only.

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

Protexin Equine Gut Balancer

This contains prebiotics, probiotics and yeast to help re-establish a healthy gut microflora and encourage normal digestive function and efficiency.

Form:: Powder | Sizes:: 400g, 700g, 3.5kg, 7kg | RRP:: £18.99 for 400g | Daily measure:: 10g | Cost per day:: £0.47

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

NAF GastriAid

This formula supports a healthy gastric environment, the natural anti-inflammatory processes and balanced pH levels, as well as soothing the stomach walls. Ideal for competition and performance horses, this daily supplement is designed to target digestion from the point of ingestion, then promote correct function and gut integrity from foregut to hindgut, giving your horse a happy, healthy tummy.

Form:: Powder | Sizes:: 1.8kg, 3.6kg, 10kg | RRP:: £41.99 for 1.8kg | Daily measure:: 60g | Cost per day:: £1.40

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

Baileys Better Biome

Baileys Better Biome brings together three valuable digestive enhancers in the form of a prebiotic, a probiotic yeast and postbiotics which work synergistically as a unique support package for the horse’s microbiome to help promote optimum gut health. If your horse is prone to loose droppings or runs up light at the drop of a hat, Baileys’ Better Biome may help, by supporting their hindgut microbiome so that ‘friendly bacteria’ can flourish.

Form:: Powder | Sizes:: 1.5kg, 6kg | RRP:: £30 for 1.5kg | Daily measure:: 40g | Cost per day:: £0.80

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

EquiNutritive B-Complete

This natural digestive supplement contains dried, green bananas, which help to maintain normal gastric mucosa. It helps to maintain gut stability, normal digestion, feed utilisation and temperament.

Form:: Powder | Sizes:: 2.5kg, 7.5kg, 15kg | RRP:: £74.99 for 2.5kg | Daily measure:: 60g | Cost per day:: £1.80

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

Aviform Pro-Choice Gold

This supplement features a unique blend of a pre- and probiotic, now featuring a new and improved triple action formula making it ideal for horses prone to stress or upset due to dietary change, or any who may need extra support. Available in a 100% compostable pouch.

Form:: Powder | Sizes:: 1kg, 2kg | RRP:: £27.71 for 1kg | Daily measure:: 50g | Cost per day:: £1.39

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

Science Supplements Gut Balancer

Winner of the BETA International Innovation Award at launch, this fast-acting supplement is a balanced combination of pre- and probiotics to support gut health and aid digestion. It also contains a live yeast to beneficially influence hindgut function.

Form:: Powder | Sizes:: 1.5kg | RRP:: £44.99 | Daily measure:: 50g | Cost per day:: £1.50

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

Dodson & Horrell Digestive Support

This high specification, pelleted supplement provides nutritional and herbal support for the entire digestive system, promoting the normal population of bacteria within the large intestine. It is ideal for sensitive digestive systems, those undergoing dietary changes, being stabled for long periods, travelling or during periods of change or competition.

Form:: Pellet | Sizes:: 1.5kg | RRP:: £22.28 | Daily measure:: 15g | Cost per day:: £0.22

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

Cavalor Gastro Aid

Gastro Aid from Cavalor consists of herbs that stimulate saliva production to neutralise acid and create a healthy environment in the stomach and protect the stomach wall against acid damage. Also available in liquid and paste forms.

Form:: Powder | Sizes:: 1.8kg | RRP:: £169 | Daily measure:: 30g | Cost per day:: £2.82

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

TopSpec Digestive Aid

Designed to optimise digestive health and stimulate appetite in horses, this supplement contains high levels of a pure, protected probiotic yeast and pre-biotic MOS as well as vitamin B12. It is particularly effective for horses that are working hard, on high concentrate/low forage diets, or stressed.

Form:: Powder | Sizes:: 3kg, 9kg, 20kg | RRP:: £37.50 for 3kg | Daily measure:: 100g | Cost per day:: £1.25

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

Equine America Pro Gut Balancer

This triple action combination of live probiotics, prebiotics (FOS), and a mannan-oligosaccharide (MOS) is designed to support digestive health and maintain a healthy gut microbiome. It’s described as being particularly helpful to re-establish healthy gut microbiota following a digestive upset or course of antibiotics, and supports horses during stressful times such as travel, changing yards or a change in diet or forage.

BETA NOPS compliant.

Form:: Powder | Sizes:: 450g, 900g, 2.7kg | RRP:: £17.50 for 450g | Daily measure:: 15g | Cost per day:: £0.58

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

Omega Digest Gut Balancer

A palatable everyday powdered supplement formulated with high levels of probiotics as well as prebiotics, brewer’s yeast, B-vitamins, minerals and essential amino acids.

Form:: Powder | Sizes:: 650g, 1.3kg, 5.66kg | RRP:: £16.80 for 650g | Daily measure:: 15.5g | Cost per day:: £0.40

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

BSC-Seabuckthorn

BSC-SeaBuckthorn is a highly palatable, natural plant extract that provides complete support for gastro-intestinal health and digestive stability. It is rich in prebiotic antioxidants and non-digestible fibres that provide a broad spectrum of gut boosting nutrition.

Form:: Liquid | Sizes:: 5l | RRP:: £72 | Daily measure:: 90ml | Cost per day:: £1.30

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

Spillers Ulca Ease

A palatable, pelleted supplement that contains a blend of ingredients to help maintain a healthy pH in the stomach as well as support the stomach lining. It also contains liquorice root and fenugreek, traditionally used to support stomach health.

Form:: Pellet | Sizes:: 3kg | RRP:: £49.99 | Daily measure:: 100g | Cost per day:: £1.67

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

H Bradshaws Coligone Intense Pellets

A concentrated gastric supplement to support the digestive tract, guard against gastric irritation, promote calmness and improve performance. Low in sugar and starch and contains no cereals making it suitable for horses prone to laminitis and those with gastric ulcers or EMS.

Form:: Pellet | : | Sizes:: 6kg | : | RRP:: £70 | : | Daily measure:: 100-200g | Cost per day: From: £1.17

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

Lincoln All Inclusive Digestive Balancer

An advanced daily supplement which supplies all the fundamental vitamins and trace minerals, with some added extras plus specialist prebiotic digestive support.

Form:: Powder | Sizes:: 2kg (pouch), 2.1kg (tub) | RRP:: £26.99 for 2kg pouch | Daily measure:: 70g | Cost per day:: £0.94

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA (Image credit: creditUnknown)

Aloeride Aloe Vera

An organic, taste-free and easy-to-feed aloe vera supplement that supports a healthy digestive system.

Form:: Powder | Sizes:: Carton of 30 sachets | RRP:: £55.20 | Daily measure:: One sachet | Cost per day:: £1.84

What are gut balancers?

Most gut balancers are formulated to help maintain a stable environment in the gut, which keeps digestion healthy, regular and efficient, despite changes in diet and environment. Some digestive supplements target other specific areas of the digestive system, such as buffering stomach acid, so we’ve rounded these up in a guide to the best gastric supplements for horses.

How to choose the best gut balancer

Knowing why you want to feed your horse a digestive supplement will help you choose the right one for him.

Common ingredients of gut balancers include…

probiotics, which are often referred to as “good bacteria”
prebiotics, which are the “food” for probiotics, helping them to work effectively

Consider the form the supplement takes – digestive supplements can come in liquid, powder and pellet forms. Your horse may have a preference to one over another, which could make all the difference as if he won’t eat it, your horse won’t receive the benefit.

Cost is another consideration – we’ve calculated the daily cost of all the supplements featured in this guide to help you compare them easily. To make it as comparable as possible, we’ve used the smallest tubs available, but you’re better off buying a larger volume of supplement if you can as the daily cost can become significantly lower.

If you compete with your horse then it is important you make sure any supplements you use do not contain any prohibited substances.

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Veteran supplements: what’s on the market?

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Horse & Hound magazine, out every Thursday, is packed with all the latest news and reports, as well as interviews, specials, nostalgia, vet and training advice. Find how you can enjoy the magazine delivered to your door every week, plus options to upgrade your subscription to access our online service that brings you breaking news and reports as well as other benefits.

Wondering how much hay to feed your horse? A nutritionist reveals how to calculate their ideal daily ration

Bethany Stone — Tue, 18 Nov 2025 10:41:31 +0000

In broad terms, how much hay to feed a horse depends on the horse you’re feeding it to. A small pony doesn’t need the same ration as a 17hh warmblood, nor does a retired cob need the weight of hay that a top-level eventer would.

While we can all agree forage rations vary horse to horse, how can you as an owner best calculate an appropriate amount of hay to feed? We spoke to an expert nutritionist to get to the bottom of it – and it might not be as complicated as you imagine.

Can you feed a horse too much hay?

As many horse owners know, feeding hay ad lib is best, as it allows the horse’s gut to be in constant motion, just as nature intended.

However, overfeeding forage can occur in good-doers or horses who hoover up their hay ration quickly, prompting you to feed more.

“The challenge with ad lib is that many horses will overeat, and become overweight as a result – even on normal quality meadow hay,” warns independent equine nutritionist Clare MacLeod.

“If you find yourself in a position where feeding hay ad lib is impossible, you’ll need to work out how to limit the amount.”

How much hay to feed a horse: making sense of dry matter

Clare says the textbook way to calculate how much hay to feed a horse is to provide an appropriate percentage of his bodyweight (here’s how to weigh your horse) in hay on a dry matter basis.

“Horses will eat anything from about 1.8–5% of their body weight daily,” says Clare. “A typical textbook would tell you horses need 2% of their bodyweight in forage per day, 2.5% if they’re hardworking.”

However, this method isn’t without its complications.

“First of all, you need be aware that these textbook values are based on the hay’s dry weight. That is, the weight of hay leftover if all the moisture was removed.

“That means owners need to calculate how much hay to feed to ensure their horses are receiving the correct dry weight of hay,” says Clare. “The typical dry matter value for hay is 88% – the other 12% is moisture. Therefore, you’d need to feed 1.136kg of hay in order to provide 1kg in dry matter.”

To calculate this, divide the hay weight in kilos by the moisture content as a percentage. For example, if you needed to feed 15kg of dry weight of hay per day and wanted to know how much to feed a horse to achieve this, you’d divide 15 by 0.88, giving you 17.05kg to feed in total.

The easiest way to weigh hay is in a net with a portable luggage scale (like this one on Amazon).

“To add another layer of complexity, it’s almost impossible to predict how much grass a horse eats while they’re turned out,” continues Clare. “This means huge challenges for your calculations if your horse has access to grass some or all of the time.”

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

Focus on time eating over weight fed

Rather than grapple with complex calculations if ad lib feeding is impossible, Clare advises focusing on how long a horse eats for, rather than precisely how much he eats.

“When your horse is off grass, try to feed forage in such a way that he never has to fast for more than four hours,” says Clare.

The challenge with an overweight horse becomes finding a way to slow them down.

“Forage amount-wise, I’d be reluctant to drop below 1.8% of bodyweight,” says Clare. “Any less, and you risk extending that fasting window beyond four hours.

“Have another look at the type of forage you’re feeding to see if you can make changes there before reducing the amount by any more.”

Clare adds that it could be helpful to “downgrade the forage” to a less energy-rich crop, such as late-cut, stalky hay that is a more mature and less nutritious plant.

“You can also long-soak your hay and feed straw alongside it as ways as ways to reduce the calories of the forage portion of the diet, as well as focusing on limiting the intake amount and rate.”

“Otherwise, you can make it harder for your horse to get through his ration quickly with small-holed haynets and slow feeders, or using a hay replacer, such as forage bricks, to substitute part of the ration with and help slow them down.”

How much hay to feed a poor-doer

In general, poor doers can eat ad lib hay, and their forage ration is a prime opportunity to load more nutrition in.

“Make sure to feed an early-cut, leafy crop, or ask your supplier about their highest energy hay product,” says Clare.

“Alongside feeding ad-lib hay, you can also add an appropriate concentrate to their bucket feed, add another daily bucket feed. In addition, you could top up their balanced bucket ration with a calorie-rich foodstuff, such as linseed, or an oil-rich supplement if further weight could be gained.”

For unlimited access to advice on how best to care for your horse, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

Is it safe to feed straw? Everything you need to know, with expert advice from an equine nutritionist

Bethany Stone — Sat, 08 Nov 2025 08:39:15 +0000

Horses get through bale upon bale of hay through winter, but can horses eat straw? The short answer is yes. Not only is straw safe for horses to eat, but there are also benefits to including this type of forage in your horse’s ration, too.

“As long as it’s introduced and fed correctly, straw can be really invaluable,” remarks independent equine nutritionist Clare MacLeod MSc RNutr. “Lots of owners feed it nowadays alongside their horse’s hay ration. It’s a great choice if you want to increase the time your horse spends eating without adding excessive calories.”

Rules of feeding straw to horses

There are a few golden rules for feeding straw. Firstly, as with any feed or forage, straw must be introduced into a horse’s diet gradually.

“If you have a grass-kept horse that comes in to a straw bed for the night and munches away for hours, problems may arise,” says Clare. “This is where the old-fashioned idea that eating straw causes impaction colic came from.

“While such a dramatic change from a grass diet to a large quantity of dry straw does represent a colic risk, research from Europe shows straw is perfectly safe to feed when done correctly and introduced slowly.”

Secondly, it’s essential to ensure your horse is drinking plenty of water.

“Ensure your horse has free access to clean fresh palatable water,” says Clare. “In winter, some horses drink too little if the water is very cold, but when you feed straw you need to be sure they are drinking plenty. Don’t make assumptions that just because a trough or tub is full, that it’s enough.”

Thirdly, take care to balance the diet correctly.

“Straw is lower in protein and minerals than hay, as well as providing less energy,” Clare explains. If you’re unsure how to correctly balance your horse’s diet, speak to a nutritionist for advice.

Finally, consider your horse’s teeth.

“Veterans or those with poor dentition might struggle to chew straw, so a softer hay may be more suitable,” she adds.

If you’re looking for other ways to make your horse’s hay ration last longer, small-holed haynets and slow feeders are a good idea.

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

What straw can horses eat?

For Clare, the type of straw you feed isn’t the most crucial part of the story.

“Oat, wheat or barley straw is all fine to feed,” she comments. “What matters is that we feed hygienic straw.”

What does this mean?

“Hygienic straw is bright yellow,” explains Clare. “It shouldn’t be grey, brownish or dark in hue or clump together, because that could indicate the presence of mould.

“We also want to ensure the straw is low in dust and doesn’t have any musty smell.”

Clare adds that ideally, the straw should not have been sprayed with any chemical.

“Some farmers spray the straw to dry it out, or use pesticides and herbicides on their crops,” remarks Clare. “Ask whoever you plan to source straw from if this is the case.”

With hay prices ballooning this year, many owners are looking for ways to reduce their hay bill. While feeding straw alongside hay can help, Clare urges owners to prioritise sourcing quality forage.

“When the supply is stretched, people can sometimes panic and buy anything they can,” says Clare. “But do go and check out any forage before you buy it.

“Or, if you can’t go in person, consider buying a small amount first to check the quality before placing a bigger order.”

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

Can you feed soaked straw?

If your dust-sensitive horse has soaked hay, then yes, you can feed soaked straw – but don’t soak it for long.

“About an hour is sufficient,” says Clare. “This is because straw can have a slightly higher bacterial load than hay.”

How much straw can I safely feed my horse?

You can safely replace up to 30% of your horse’s forage ration with straw, provided it is done gradually.

“Some people will say they can feed more, but nutritionists will advise 30% because that’s a safe, general guideline for every healthy horse or pony who is not prone to colic.”

You may also be interested in:

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New research confirms straw could be valuable weapon in fight against equine obesity

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Horse & Hound magazine, out every Thursday, is packed with all the latest news and reports, as well as interviews, specials, nostalgia, vet and training advice. Find how you can enjoy the magazine delivered to your door every week, plus options to upgrade your subscription to access our online service that brings you breaking news and reports as well as other benefits.

8 ways to reduce your hay bill this winter

Carol Phillips — Fri, 17 Oct 2025 11:23:19 +0000

Feeding your horse during the winter can be a challenge and many horse owners will be looking at how to save money on hay and reduce bills this year. No-one wants to over pay for their horse’s hay or haylage, and this year, with the reduced hay yield and increased prices, this is more front of mind than ever. We asked the experts how to get the most out of your horse’s forage without compromising their health and performance.

Fibre is essential for healthy hindgut function and the process of digestion helps to keep the horse warm. It also supplies slow-release energy and reduces the risk of colic in horses, so it’s important to ensure we are feeding enough fibre to our horses while searching for ways to reduce unnecessary expensive wastage.

How to save money on hay

1. Avoid waste

It sounds obvious, but don’t waste forage, whether it’s by overfeeding, not supplying in a varied enough form or by not presenting it to your horse properly. Hannah Briars of Winergy suggests: “Bring horses in from the field to eat or provide a field rack to prevent hay being wasted through trampling.”

There are plenty of small-holed haynets and slow feeders and that will help reduce waste simply by keeping it tidy and off the ground. They can also protect the nutrientlevels from decreasing due to exposure to bad weather.

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

2. Make hay last longer

Horses need to eat around 1.5–2.5% of their bodyweight a day, and the majority of this should come from forage. However, some horses eat far more than they need to – and very quickly. If you’re giving extra hay purely to reduce the time they’re without, make use of small-holed haynets to reduce the speed your horse can eat at and make the same amount of hay last longer.

Here’s how to weigh your horse to ensure you’re feeding the right amount of hay.

3. Use different types of forage

Katie Williams, head of nutrition at Dengie Horse Feeds, says: “Research has shown that offering a variety of fibre types – hay, haylage, chopped fibre – keeps stabled horses happy and stimulated. Offering a bucket of chopped fibre, such as Hi-Fi Original, with carrots and apples is a great way of increasing fibre intake and encouraging them to forage.”

Lizzie Drury, senior nutritionist from Saracen Horse Feeds describes this as “cafeteria-style” feeding and goes further: “Try offering a net of hay, another of haylage, a bucket of chaff and sprinkle high-fibre cubes in a pile of hay on the floor.”

Used with caution, good-quality oat or barley straw accompanied by plenty of water — and a watchful eye to ensure droppings are regular — can be used to make hay or haylage go further, especially for good-doers. But it is not recommended for a horse with a fragile digestive system and can cause impaction colic, so if you’re unsure then discuss this plan with your vet before introducing it.

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

4. Consider hay replacers

Clare Barfoot of Spillers advises: “If you can’t find a reliable source of hay or haylage, hay replacers may be useful. These are chopped fibre-based products formulated to provide the same level of nutrition as hay or haylage and can be fed at up to 100% of the diet.

“Some contain vitamins and minerals, such as Spillers Happy Hoof, while others don’t, so it is worth checking with the manufacturer whether or not you need to add in a supplement.”

Hay replacers may appear expensive at first, but some are only designed to be a partial replacement. Our guide to the best hay replacers explains the differences and will help you identify a suitable option.

5. Investigate larger bales

Switching from traditional small bales, to larger bales of hay, could save you money in the long run. Unlike haylage, which will go off if not used quickly enough, big-bale hay will last and some merchants will wrap hay for clients if you need to store it outside.

6. Club together

If you do prefer to use haylage, clubbing together with other owners on your yard will help ensure you get through big-bale haylage fast enough to minimise wastage.

7. Buy from the field

If you can buy your hay straight from the field, and collect it yourself, this is likely to be is cheaper. The farmer may well give you a discount if you’re willing to save him the job of transporting it home.

Many farmers are prioritising loyal customers this year, but it’s worth trying if you’re able to transport.

8. Get your hay analysed

Hay and haylage don’t just differ in their moisture content; depending on the type and age of ley (mix of grass varieties) used, when it is cut (anything from May to late August) and the amount of time it “cures” before being baled, the nutritional value of your forage can vary, so it is worth getting it analysed so you know what you are feeding.

Once you have this information, speak to a nutritionist about your horse and you may find you can save money by reducing your horse’s hard feed.

Know your forage: which type is right for your horse?

Georgia Guerin — Fri, 17 Oct 2025 09:20:33 +0000

You might be considering different types of forage for horses due to the current shortage of hay. Being aware of the benefits and shortfalls of different forages and knowing about the best forage replacers will help you make an informed decision when it comes to selecting the right products for your horse.

Forage is a really important part of the diet as it contains fibre, which is needed for energy. It also plays an important role as a filler, helping to prevent gastric ulcers and aid digestion. We’ve covered all the types of forage – and explained some of the benefits and problems associated with feeding each.

Types of forage for horses

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

1. Hay

Hay is the most commonly fed type of forage for horses. harvested either from permanent pasture meadow grasses or specially sown seed leys. Once cut, it’s left to air-dry in the field. It tends to be harvested between the end of May and end of July.

Benefits of feeding hay

Various types of hay available
Long stems encourage chewing, which stimulates saliva, helping to control stomach acid
Can buy in various sizes
Can be soaked

Problems associated with hay

Can be dusty
Shortage this year has affected availability and driven up prices
Can’t know specific nutrient quantities unless professionally analysed

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

2. Haylage

Haylage is conserved cut grass, baled with a higher water content than hay, and then wrapped. Haylage tends to be cut earlier in the season compared to hay (generally before mid-June).

Benefits of feeding haylage

Tends to be higher in overall energy if it’s cut earlier
Less dusty
Can buy in bulk or smaller bags

Problems associated with haylage

Due to the higher water content, more haylage needs to be fed than hay (by weight) as the nutrient and fibre levels will effectively have been ‘diluted’
Not usually so good for good-doers
Starts to go off once wrapping is opened
Can’t know specific nutrient quantities unless professionally analysed (or purchased in bags with nutritional info)

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

3. Straw

More commonly used as a cheap bedding option, straw can also be fed to horses. Oat and barley straw are most common, though oat straw has a slightly softer texture and is less prickly for the horse to eat compared to barley straw.

Benefits of feeding straw

Cheaper and readily available
Can be used as a partial replacement (up to a maximum of 30% of the daily fibre intake) for good-doers or overweight horses

Problems associated with straw

Always make sure that you are providing a clean, fresh supply of drinking water alongside and monitor droppings to reduce the risk of impaction colic

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

4. Chopped dried grass

Chopped dried grass is harvested earlier than hay and dried artificially.

Benefits of chopped dried grass

Often higher in protein and energy, making it a good option for poor-doers and veterans

Problems associated with chopped dried grass

These types of chaffs retain much of the natural sugar content of fresh grass, but without the water content to ‘dilute’ it, so it’s usually best to avoid these for horses prone to laminitis or requiring a low sugar diet
Not suitable for use as a complete hay replacement

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

5. Sugar beet

Sugar beet is the fibrous byproduct of the sugar beet root left after the sugar has been extracted for human consumption.

Benefits of sugar beet

Palatable way to add fibre
Quick-to-soak options
Molasses free options

Problems associated with sugar beet

Can’t be used as a complete replacement
Dangerous if fed unsoaked

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

6. Short-chopped fibres

These may contain chopped straw, grass and alfalfa, or a combination of the three. They sometimes come as complete feed including vitamins and minerals to ensure a balanced diet, in which case they may be an economical alternative to a traditional hard feed of mix or nuts. Short chopped fibres can either partially or totally replace forage ration.

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

7. Soakable products

Soakable high fibre products or mashes are often high-fibre and low in sugar and starch, so can be used as a partial replacement and are ideal for horses with dental problems.

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

8. High-fibre pellets

Pellets are a versatile and palatable way of adding fibre as a complete compound feed, partial replacer or treats in a stable toy. Some contain added vitamins and minerals so should be fed in accordance with manufacturer recommendations.

Expert advice for feeding a horse to avoid gastric ulcers

Emily Bevan — Tue, 14 Oct 2025 13:35:49 +0000

Feeding a horse with gastric ulcers in the right way is key for their health and comfort. Gastric ulcers can affect any horse or pony of any breed or any age because the horse’s stomach constantly secretes acid. Horses need to chew regularly to produce enough salvia to help neutralise this acid – and without frequent intakes of forage, the acidity increases and they are at a greater risk of developing ulcers.

“Approximately 90% of racehorses and up to 60% of competition horses are thought to have gastric ulcers. Although diet is just one risk factor, appropriate nutritional management helps to reduce the risk and severity of gastric ulcers,” says Sarah Nelson, Spillers nutritionist. Recent studies have also shown that 37% of leisure horses are also affected, so this is a problem for all horse owners.

What to feed a horse with gastric ulcers

A horse with gastric ulcers should receive a high-fibre, high-forage diet that contains little or no whole cereal grains. Their total daily forage intake should be a minimum of 1.5% of their bodyweight. On average for a 500kg horse without access to grazing this equates to approximately 9kg of hay (unsoaked weight) or 10-12kg of haylage.

Some feeds suitable for horses with gastric ulcers have the BETA EGUS Approval Mark, so this is a simple way to identify some safe options.

A horse’s diet should contain less than 1g of non-structural carbohydrate (starch and sugars) per kilogram bodyweight per meal and ideally less than 2g of starch per kilogram bodyweight per day. For a 500kg horse this is equivalent to less than 500g of NSC per meal and ideally less than 1kg of NSC per day.

“Starch, such as found in concentrated cereal feeds, is strongly associated with an increased risk of gastric ulcers. Therefore, stick to the high-fibre diet, supplemented to balance the micronutrients. If additional energy is required then this is best fed through a high-oil diet, which is shown to be beneficial for the ulcer-prone — and don’t forget to balance with vitamin E,” says Kate Hore, head nutritionist at NAF.

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

For those horses and ponies who only eat forage, feeding oil or one of the best feed balancers can be a valuable addition to their diet.

“Balancers provide a concentrated source of vitamins, minerals and quality protein, but due to the low feeding rate, a negligible level of energy, starch and sugar,” says Sarah.

Saliva provides a natural buffer to a horse’s stomach acid and horses only produce saliva when they chew so maximising forage intake is key.

“The sooner we all feed our horses more naturally, the sooner we can make many equine health issues, including ulcers, a thing of the past. That means not only feeding the high forage diet, but also maximising turnout as much as possible, to encourage good gut motility, as the horse’s digestive system evolved to work to its best when grazing and gently moving around,” concludes Kate.

When to feed a horse with gastric ulcers

“Horses are designed to eat little and often and therefore should receive ad lib forage; research has proven that there is a risk factor for the development of ulcers if there is absence of forage in a horse’s diet for over six hours,” explains Katie Williams, technical and product development manager at Dengie.

“While this can be difficult to avoid overnight, try putting multiple haynets around your horse’s stable or if someone goes to the yard later in the evening than you, ask them to give your horse a haynet so the horse has the shortest possible time without forage.”

You can also use small-holed haynets and slow feeders to extend your horse’s eating time, which will help reduce the time he’s without if he tends to finish his ration.

Adding short chopped fibre, ideally containing alfalfa, to every meal can be hugely beneficial as the high protein and calcium content in alfalfa is thought to help buffer stomach acid.

“It is also advisable to feed a handful of chaff or forage or give a horse a haynet 20-25 mins prior to exercising to help line the horse’s stomach and stop the acid from splashing around while the horse moves,” adds Katie.

Feeding to prevent gastric ulcers

As the diet is the main contributing factor to gastric ulcers, feeding your horse as naturally as possible will go along way to helping prevent them.

Different types of forage should form the majority of your horse’s diet to provide enough fibre to buffer the stomach acid. If you need to feed for additional energy or condition, choose concentrates that are high in fibre and low in starch. There are also gastric supplements that are formulated to help balance the stomach’s pH.

If you give your horse a bucket feed with more than just a forage replacer, split these into smaller meals where possible and ensure plenty of forage is fed in between.

Twenty-four hour turnout is ideal, but not possible for many, but keeping your horse turned out for as long as you can will support their digestive health. If your horse is injured or on heavily restricted turnout due to weather, you will also need to consider how best to feed your horse while on box rest.

Providing forage in stressful situations – for example, travelling – will also help buffer any additional acid. Feeding chaff before exercise may also help to trap acid and limit ulceration.

If you’re unsure on how to proceed or are navigating multiple issues, speak to a nutritionist for advice – most feed companies have free helplines.

Bed and breakfast for the horses – the 1% details that drive a world number one to the pinnacle of their sport

Martha Terry — Tue, 01 Jul 2025 15:32:00 +0000

Harry Meade’s attention to detail doesn’t apply just to his riding skills. His horse management routine, right down to how he’s selected their bedding, is intricately planned and detailed. In this article exclusive to H&H subscribers, Harry describes his feeding philosophies and how he makes choices on other aspects of management.

When a rider reaches the status of world number one, while most of us only see the glory days, it’s always the result a monumental amount of work over years and years. Behind the glamorous scenes is a jigsaw puzzle of training, physio, farriery, feed and management, and a team of countless people playing an integral part. The new eventing world number one Harry Meade’s feeding routine is meticulously managed, according to factors such as the horse’s weight, history, workload, condition, time of year and targets.

Nor does he leaves any stone unturned when it comes to other management details, such as bedding and worming. Here are the 1% margins that help give Harry the edge.

Harry Meade’s feeding routine

Nutrition-wise, Harry Meade simplifies feeding into three requirements, “energy levels, condition, and ensuring all nutrients are delivered at the appropriate thresholds”.

To ensure the nutrient levels are correct and nothing is over-delivered or lacking, D&H, with whom Harry has a long-term relationship, profiles each horse’s complete diet – including forage, grazing, supplements as well as hard feeds – at different times of the year.

For energy levels, he can feel how much spark they have, and alter accordingly.

The horses’ condition is monitored closely, each horse is weighed regularly and their weekly average added to a graph on their lifelong spreadsheet, recorded alongside their total feed intake. By tracking this information, Harry can spot trends before they develop and make adjustments to ensure each horse is at its peak weight for performance.

CCI5* campaigner Et Hop Du Matz at his regular weigh-in at Harry Meade’s yard. (Image credit: Peter Nixon)

“I’ll assess each by eye and note down if any are starting to look slightly light or big,” he explains.

“Weighing only gives you a number, which means nothing by itself, but it does allow you to track how each horse fluctuates. If any horse begins to deviate away from their ideal trend, the weight gives a head start before it is evident to the eye.”

It also flags up repeat yearly patterns.

“I’ve had most of my horses since they were young, so I can analyse their historical data,” he adds.

“I’ll know that a certain horse is prone to run up light or put weight on at a particular time of year, so I can feed in advance of an anticipated drop or gain and have a smooth taper, rather than reacting retrospectively, which leads to homeostatic fluctuations.”

One of Harry’s CCI5* mares, Cavalier Crystal, tucks into her feed, which is bespoke according to several factors – including her own history and predicted fluctuations in condition. (Image credit: Peter Nixon)

Best bedding

Harry’s chosen bedding is thanks both to circumstance and scrupulous research.

“Fifteen years ago, the bedding company I was using had supply issues so I had to change,” he says. “I contacted racehorse trainers in Britain, Ireland, the US, France and Australia, to find out the pros and cons of various types of bedding used around the world.

“We ordered eight pallets of different bedding and put sections of the yard on different types for a few months each. We assessed each from the point of view of dust, mould spores and how easy it was to muck out.”

The winner was a chopped rape straw, Caviera, recommended by a French trainer.

Harry Meade uses chopped rape straw bedding, which he chose for its dust-free qualities and ease of use. (Image credit: Peter Nixon)

“I also had it analysed as a feed, to check it has no downsides in case they eat any,” he adds.

Catching the worm

Worming, too, isn’t left to chance.

“We send off the horses’ faecal egg counts to Intelligent Worming, who determine whether treatment is necessary and if so with what product, to target that specific type of worm burden,” Harry explains.

“This avoids unnecessary or ineffective treatment. Prevention is better for the horse, and more economical too.”

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15 electrolytes on the market –and why they are vital for healthy horses

Georgia Guerin — Fri, 02 May 2025 13:55:27 +0000

Are you confused about the best electrolytes for horses, why they are important and how to ensure your horse has the right levels? Or are you looking for the best electrolyte product for your horse? Then we are here to help.

Electrolytes are commonly fed to horses, particularly in the summer months, but in order to get the best out of them, choose the right one and know how to feed them, it’s important to understand how they work.

Electrolytes for horses: what are your options?

Here is a selection of the best electrolytes for horses on the market…

NB: Cost per day has been calculated using the maintenance measure for a 500kg horse in light work (where there was variation) and the RRP of the smallest available tub. Some products require you to feed more with a higher workload, which will increase the cost per daily measure, while buying a larger tub will likely decrease it – these costs per day are a guide only.

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

Equine America Apple Lytes

Carefully formulated to replace the key electrolytes and encourage drinking to help prevent dehydration. They are highly palatable and should be mixed in feed. Also available as a syringe paste.

Form:: Powder | Sizes:: 2.5kg, 10kg | RRP:: £23.50 for 2.5kg | Daily measure:: 30g | Cost per day:: £0.28

(Image credit: Kevin Gibson Photography Ltd)

Equine Products UK Everyday Electrolyte

Formulated for long-term daily use, this product assists with the movement of glucose to cells for energy metabolism as well as replacing electrolytes.

Form:: Powder | Sizes:: 1kg, 20kg | RRP:: £11.94 | Daily measure:: 50g | Cost per day:: £0.60

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NAF Electro Salts

Form:: Powder | Sizes:: 1kg, 4kg | RRP:: £19.99 for 1kg | Daily measure:: 30g | Cost per day:: £0.60

Electro Salts is a concentrated combination of the essential plasma salts combined with dextrose to aid efficient absorption. It should be fed following exertion, after heavy sweating or during periods of very hot weather, and can be given in the feed or dissolved in water.

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Dodson & Horrell Electrolytes

These balanced and flavoured electrolytes are easy to incorporate into an existing diet on days when a little extra replenishment is needed for a better recovery.

Form:: Powder | Sizes:: 2kg, 5kg, 15kg | RRP:: £24.40 for 2kg | Daily measure:: 60g | Cost per day:: £0.73

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BettaLife ElectroLYTE+ Complete Hydration Formula

ElectroLYTE+ is a complete hydration formula containing a balanced spectrum of Sodium, Chloride, Potassium, Calcium & Magnesium to support rehydration, aid recovery times, and maintain optimum performance.

Form:: Powder | Sizes:: 1.25kg, 2.5kg, 5kg | RRP:: £30 for 1.25kg | Daily measure:: 25g | Cost per day:: £0.60

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Science Supplements Complete Electrolytes

This palatable and balanced electrolyte is gentle on the stomach and uses microencapsulation technology to ensure it reaches the small intestine, where electrolyte uptake is optimal, before dissolving. Also available as a syringe paste.

Form:: Powder | Sizes:: 2kg, 10kg | RRP:: £39.99 | Daily measure:: 28g | Cost per day:: £0.56

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TopSpec Electrolytes

This high-salt formula is flavoured with wild fruit berries and should be fed in addition to any salt already in the diet. It’s recommended that you divide the daily amount equally between feeds, and that it’s used for at least two days after sweating.

Form:: Powder | Sizes:: 1.5kg, 3kg, 9kg, 20kg | RRP:: £19.95 for 1.5kg | Daily measure:: 100g | Cost per day:: £1.33

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Nettex Equine Electrolyte Maintenance Liquid

Form:: Liquid | Sizes:: 1l | RRP:: £12.85 | Daily measure:: 50ml | Cost per day:: £0.64

This is rapidly absorbed to replace vital salts required for recovery and maintaining stamina. The peppermint-flavoured powder can be added to water or feed after sweating, during hot weather, exercise or in times of stress. Also available in powder form.

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Aviform Electroform EQ Equine Electrolytes

This fast-acting electrolyte contains the optimum ratios of sodium, chloride, potassium, magnesium, calcium, MSM, glucose and vitamin C. It’s described as easy to use and palatable, and can be administered in water or feed.

Form:: Powder | Sizes:: 1kg pouch, 2kg tub | RRP:: £22.95 for 1kg | Daily measure:: 35g | Cost per day:: £0.80

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Baileys Aqua-Aide

This provides the optimum balance of sodium, potassium, chloride, magnesium and calcium. It also contains dextrose for palatability and improved absorption. It can be given in water or wet feed, beet or chaff, whenever your horse sweats.

Form:: Powder | Sizes:: 2kg, 9kg | RRP:: £16 for 2kg | Daily measure:: 30g | Cost per day:: £0.24

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Omega Equine Electrolytes

This carefully balanced combination of vital electrolytes to maintain general health, performance and healthy hydration in horses by ensuring proper muscle and nerve function, which is crucial for optimal health.

Form:: Powder | Sizes:: 1.5kg, 5kg, 10kg | RRP:: £13.99 for 1.5kg | Daily measure:: 30g | Cost per day:: £0.28

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Horse First Heavy Sweat

This balanced electrolyte supplement is free from glucose and fillers. Also available as a syringe paste.

Form:: Powder | Sizes:: 1kg, 3kg, 10kg | RRP:: £12.65 for 1kg | Daily measure:: 50g | Cost per day:: £0.63

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Cavalor Electrolyte Balance

This supplement contains the vital salts as well as some important B vitamins. It also includes essential amino acids and sugars that provide energy and promote the absorption of electrolytes. It can be given in a feed or dissolved in drinking water right after a period of sweating.

Form:: Powder | Sizes:: 800g, 5kg | RRP:: £32.50 for 800g | Daily measure:: 45g | Cost per day:: £1.63

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Feedmark Replenish

Form:: Powder | Sizes:: 1.5kg, 3kg, 6kg | RRP:: £22.99 for 1.5kg | Daily measure:: 50g | Cost per day:: £0.77

This balanced blend of the essential electrolytes will help keep competition horses performing at their best by maintaining correct muscle and nerve function for optimum health.

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Plusvital Electrolyte Plus

This supplement contains an appropriate balance of salts lost in exercise, while also providing anti-oxidant ingredients to support recovery. It’s recommended that you dilute it in water after exercise, but it can also be mixed into feed.

Form:: Powder | Sizes:: 2kg, 4kg, 15kg | RRP:: £25.50 for 2kg | Daily measure:: 25g | Cost per day:: £0.32

What are electrolytes?

Electrolytes are minerals dissolved in the blood and tissues of the body, which carry a positive or negative charge and can bind with another ion to make a “salt”. They help to preserve the correct balance of fluids in the body’s cells and are involved in muscle function and the processing of wastes. Deficiencies cause dehydration, impaired performance and may exacerbate clinical problems such as azoturia.

The main electrolytes are:

Sodium (Na+)
Chloride (Cl−)
Potassium (K+)
Magnesium (Mg2+)
Calcium (Ca2+)

Horses lose electrolytes daily through sweating, in urine and faeces. These losses can normally be replaced in the diet. Horses rely on sweating to control body temperature during exercise and it is generally accepted that 90% of a horse’s weight loss after exercise is due to sweating. It is important that this weight loss is monitored and the fluid and electrolyte losses replaced, otherwise poor performance will result.

During periods of exertion such as competition and training, electrolyte losses can be considerable, particularly during hot weather. Even under normal exercise conditions, a 500kg horse could lose 10 litres of sweat during two hours of exercise.

Signs of electrolyte deficiency in horses include:

Dull coat
Sunken eyes
Depression
Listlessness
Poor performance
Dark urine

How to provide electrolytes to horses

The horse’s body cannot retain water without the presence of electrolytes, so simply offering water after exercise, while important, will not fully rehydrate your horse. Electrolytes should be added to either the water or the feed.

Adding electrolytes to water to form an isotonic solution (a solution that contains the same electrolyte concentrations as that of the body fluids) will ensure that both fluid and electrolyte losses are replenished and the horse becomes quickly rehydrated. However, after prolonged sweating it will take several days of electrolyte supplementation to completely replenish losses.

Alternatively, if your horse is a poor drinker or there is no opportunity to replace fluid losses during the competition, electrolytes may be fed alongside a small amount of concentrate feed. Electrolyte pastes are also available. However, a large single dose can cause the horse to absorb water from the blood vessels surrounding the gut and actually worsen the effects of dehydration in the short term.

Sodium chloride (table salt) can be made available for the horse ad lib in the form of a salt lick, but intake should be monitored, particularly in hot weather, as evidence has shown horses do not naturally self regulate their intake. Alternatively feeding a tablespoon of table salt daily will ensure your horse receives sufficient sodium chloride.

Giving electrolytes to competition horses

The electrolytes most commonly used in supplements – sodium chloride, calcium carbonate and potassium chloride – are not included in the FEI Clean Sport prohibited substances list. Neither are other common ingredients, such as sodium bicarbonate or glucose.

Simple electrolyte supplements should, therefore, be safe for use in competition horses. However, it is advisable to check the label of any supplement or ask the manufacturer. For the full list of banned substances visit feicleansport.org

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Unsure what’s best to feed a horse who lacks energy? H&H asks the experts

Bethany Stone — Fri, 18 Oct 2024 12:00:54 +0000

Everyone knows there is no one way to manage a horse – especially when there are so many factors that go into creating his care programme. What’s more, every horse is an individual with his own specific needs, considerations and health concerns. While it would be helpful if horses produced a list of their wants and needs, it’s up to us owners to work it out and tailor management as best we can. This is why feeding a horse with no energy is a real head-scratcher – the underlying cause could be one of many.

Horse with no energy: why is my horse tired?

A horse lacking in energy typically performs below his best. He might drop behind the leg frequently, lack his usual impulsion or precision or accumulate more jumping faults than normal. A lack of energy may manifest in evasive behaviours such as napping or spooking. Or, you might notice he isn’t as alert on a hack, and doesn’t want to canter as frequently or as far. If you feel like you’re riding a horse with no energy, the following factors could be contributing:

Soundness
Workload
Nutrition

We’ll explore each with an expert below. To jump to a specific topic, click on it above.

Soundness

A horse’s dip in performance and energy might be explained by checking his vital signs, says H&H veterinary consultant Karen Coumbe MRCVS.

“Your horse can’t tell you when he has a headache, but if you make a habit of observing him closely and knowing what’s normal, you’ll be best placed to pick up anything abnormal,” she explains. “Sometimes, lethargic horses have a low-grade virus. If you know his normal temperature range, you’ll know right away if he has a fever, so best to check.”

In cases where a horse has reduced energy, Karen recommends consulting a vet early.

“It helps if you have a regular vet who knows you and your horse and can see if there’s a difference,” Karen adds. “Get an independent assessment and a clinical exam, plus a blood test. A normal blood result can be reassuring.

“Classically, sore feet are the culprit, or low-grade lameness possibly linked as well to a sore back,” adds Karen, who recommends a full lameness work-up to help isolate the region from which the lameness originates if problems persist. Some horses will benefit from a change in shoeing or a simple saddle refit.

Horses that are persistently lethargic may require further investigations, such as checking out the horse’s heart to look for cardiac abnormalities sometimes including an electrocardiogram (ECG) or ruling out gastric ulcers by gastroscopy. The best thing is talk to your vet.

Workload

For British Showjumping accredited coach Christine Shubrook, a regular coach who knows you and your horse well – and is familiar with his routine and workload – could provide a helpful second opinion.

“You see a lot posts on Facebook asking ‘what should I feed my horse?’ But your coach sees you every week and knows you, and can look at the problem holistically.”

If you feel that your horse has no energy, Christine recommends being honest about how fit he really is.

“Because of the weather, the light and work commitments, it can be really hard to keep a horse going through winter.

“But whatever you want to do on the weekend, be it a fun ride or a round of showjumps, the level of work shouldn’t be a surprise to your horse. And really, fun rides can be three or four hours in length. Plus, you’ve got your travel there and back, where the horse has to balance himself for the whole journey. That in itself is tiring – you wouldn’t run a marathon on no training, after all!

“A round of showjumps is about two minutes, so your horse needs to be able to canter comfortably and regularly for two minutes in the school. It’s longer than you think, so use a free app to time yourself. That way, you know you’re putting in the right level of work.”

Christine says increasing your horse’s fitness now will pay dividends through the winter. What’s more, keeping his work varied throughout the darker months targets his whole body.

“Get him fit enough for a fun ride now and you can maintain it,” she says. “Not by riding that long distance, but by timing your canter work with walk intervals for recovery, doing simple lateral work to strengthen the core and walking over poles. Walking over poles in hand, especially raised ones, demands more than people realise. Just 20 minutes is quite an intense muscle-builder.

“It doesn’t need to be a complicated pattern – three poles in a line does a lot. It’s much easier to fit in than a hack and targets muscles more efficiently.”

Rider fitness is another factor that could hamper a horse’s performance.

“The fitter we are, the more we can support ourselves, the quicker we adapt to the horse’s movement and become an easier load for him to carry.”

Nutrition

According to Sarah Nelson BSc, product manager at Spillers, the way your horse looks should give you a good idea of whether his energy requirements are being met.

“Horses maintaining a healthy body weight or condition score are consuming the right amount of energy for their workload – regardless of whether they lack energy under saddle!” she says. “Unless they’re actively losing weight, overweight horses are consuming too much energy. Underweight horses are not consuming enough energy.

“Vitamins and minerals are needed for optimum health,” she adds. “Many are involved in energy metabolism which means a shortfall in the diet could result in lethargy. Make sure you are feeding the recommended amount of an appropriate compound feed or balancer to make up for any shortfall in winter forage.”

Sarah also advises owners to consider the type of energy that is most appropriate for their horses.

“Feeds high in cereal starch promote a more energetic response in some horses, which is why some owners choose traditional competition mixes or oats for those that are ‘lazy’ or in need of extra ‘sparkle’. Many healthy, exercised horses in ideal body condition handle controlled amounts of cereal starch in their diet very well. For those in moderate to hard work, a balance of energy sources, such as those found in Spillers Performance Mix, can help to support performance.

“However, diets high in starch and sugar are not suitable for all horses. Spillers Stamina+ Cubes are rich in highly digestible fibre and oil, providing a source of ‘slow release’ energy for horses in moderate work.”

Fuelling the good-doer

Overweight horses in need of an energy boost often get their spark back once they’ve lost weight, says Dengie senior nutritionist Dr Katie Williams PhD MSc (Dist) RNutr.

“It’s important to balance the diet,” she continues, “because it can often be the shortfall in vitamins and minerals, which are involved in energy metabolism, that can impact the energy levels.

“A classic one for the good doer would be the loss of electrolytes through sweat. Horses who carry a lot of weight are probably going to sweat more, because they work a bit harder, and the loss of electrolytes contributes to fatigue and them feeling like they are running out of active energy. Balancing the diet, and topping up electrolyte levels, is key to maintaining performance.”

Katie also recommends adding a quick-release energy source to a good doer’s bucket if he’s at a healthy weight.

“As long as he isn’t susceptible to laminitis or EMS, adding a traditional quick-release energy source, such as bruised oats, can help give him a bit of sparkle.”

Katie suggests adding a couple of handfuls to begin with, and seeing if that has the desired effect.

“First of all, you don’t want to add too much and end up with exuberance,” she explains, “and secondly, you don’t want to exceed around one-and-a-half kilos total weight per feed. Any more than that, and the risks of feeding higher starch outweigh the benefits of the quick-release energy it provides.

“It’s also key to remove the oats if the horse has time off.

“Feeding a few handfuls of oats alongside a balanced ration shouldn’t disrupt the overall calcium-to-phosphorus ratio. But, if you do end up feeding more, alfalfa is a really nice natural balancer for this. So, if you had a couple of scoops of Dengie Alfa-A Molasses Free and top dress with up to 1.5kg of oats, then this would naturally balance for calcium and phosphorous. However, if you feed even more, you will need a balancer or supplement to ensure all the micro-nutrient needs are met.”

If you’re looking to fuel a higher level of work and want to aid your horse’s stamina, an oil-based chopped fibre is Katie’s go to.

“Oil is a concentrated, dense source of slow-release energy,” explains Katie. “Which is really useful for helping to fuel low-intensity work. This means energy stored as glycogen in the horse’s muscles is spared – a so-called glycogen-sparing effect meaning they’ve got more in the tank when they move into more intense work. This effect also seems to help horses recover from exercise quicker.

“My go-to for this is Dengie Alfa-A Oil. It’s a really simple formulation but seems to do the job!”

Timing is key

For owners looking to feed a horse with no energy a ‘quick release’ energy source, when they feed it could be the answer. According to Topspec nutrition director Nicola Tyler BSc (Hons) RNutr: “Feeding strategically for a horse to be more in front of the leg is best done about an hour-and-a-half before you need them to have more oomph,” she advises. “This is particularly good advice for good doers. If you had a competition in the morning, you might feed 100g of a fast-releasing energy source, such as TopSpec Turbo Flakes, to a good doer. This won’t add significantly to the horse’s calorie intake, but it will give him a short-term energy boost.

“The effect lasts for about two hours before insulin levels rise and take down the level of glucose that you’ve increased in the bloodstream.”

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Unsure what’s best to feed an excitable horse as the days draw in? H&H asks the experts

Bethany Stone — Thu, 17 Oct 2024 12:00:14 +0000

If your horse is on the sharper side, you’ll know that riding, managing and feeding an energetic horse often requires a different approach to the laid-back good doer.

Winter routines usually incur changes to turnout, stabling, management and sometimes ridden work. For some horses, it means as much exercise as limited daylight and ground conditions allow. For others it could mean reduced hacking and more time spent under lights in an arena. If a horse has spent the summer season competing in full work, switching to winter management could mean a reduction in movement and energy expended. Where, then, does this energy go?

If you own a horse prone to spookiness or excitability, you might have noticed a seasonal change in behaviour. Some owners report that their horses become more energetic once clipping starts.

“Often around the time of the first clip, we get more calls to the Dengie Feedline with owners reporting that their horse is suddenly more excitable,” says Tracey Hammond MSc (Dist), Equine Nutritionist at Dengie. “Although there is no evidence to prove it, we suspect they are suddenly noticing the cold a little more!”

If you’re puzzling over managing and feeding an energetic horse, read on for expert tips.

Energetic horses: management considerations

Jane Buchan of Baileys advises a holistic approach to the energetic horse rather than rushing to change the feed immediately.

“Feed is often picked out as the culprit yet, while some feed ingredients can have an effect on temperament, many other factors are likely to be influential,” she says.

Stress

“Horses can be stressed in their environment and work for a plethora of reasons and it is our job to identify if they are stressed and why,” continues Jane, adding that stress and reactive behaviour are both signs of equine gastric ulcer syndrome (EGUS).

“The pain of the ulcers may be exhibited in stressful behaviour. If gastric ulcers are suspected, it is wise to have this investigated by the vet. Altering the horse’s management and feeding regimes can help, but veterinary intervention is recommended to ensure horses get maximum benefit from those changes.”

Turnout

We often think of turnout in terms of quantity, but Jane advises ensuring your horse’s time out is good quality, too.

“If they are not happy on their own or don’t like their companion, some experimentation may be necessary to find a turnout regime with which they are comfortable,” she says.

Stabling arrangements should also be taken into account.

“Some horses like to see what’s going on and be able to interact with other horses, while some may prefer a quieter situation,” says Jane. “In any case, when stabled, horses should always have access to forage or forage alternatives to satisfy their need to chew and produce saliva, which helps neutralise stomach acid.

“As a guide, a horse should consume ideally no less than the equivalent of 1.5% of his bodyweight in fibre per day so, if they don’t have access to grass or are not great eaters of hay or haylage, it may be wise to give them forage alternatives to boost their intake.”

Feeding an energetic horse: does feed affect behaviour?

Understanding how horses are fuelled by feed starts with understanding how that feed is digested and its energy released.

“Carbohydrates are the predominant energy source for herbivores such as the horse,” says Tracey. “The feedstuffs used for horses will vary in the proportions of the different carbohydrates they contain which largely determines their suitability for each horse.

“Carbohydrates include fibre, starch and sugar which vary considerably in how quickly they are broken down in the digestive system and therefore how quickly the energy they contain is released to the horse…”

fibre is a slow-release energy source digested in the hindgut – the collective term for the caecum and large intestine – by its microbial population. The energy it produces is in the form of volatile fatty acids (VFAs)
starch is a quick-release energy source primarily digested in the foregut – the collective term for the stomach and small intestine – by enzymes. The energy it produces is in the form of glucose if digested in the foregut. If starch reaches the hindgut it is broken down faster than fibre and produces stronger forms of the VFAs (acid)
sugar is an even quicker release energy source because it is a simpler structure than starch when digested in the foregut. The energy it produces is in the form of glucose if digested in the foregut and VFAs if it reaches the hindgut

“Feedstuffs that are higher in sugar and starch provide quick-release energy,” continues Tracey. “Studies measuring blood glucose levels after feeding oats found that levels peaked 2 hours after feeding, whereas the levels of VFA in the hindgut peaked at around 5 hours after feeding a high-fibre diet.

“What needs to be considered here is that if horses are fed an ad-lib, forage-based diet, rather than meal feeds, there is less likelihood of a glucose “peak” as the horse is consuming their food more slowly, even though forages contain some sugar.”

Put to the test

In theory, slower-release energy sources – particularly ad-lib forage – should be less likely to contribute to excitable behaviour in energetic horses. But does this work in practice?

“To try and substantiate this with some more scientific evidence, Dengie worked with researcher Louise Bulmer to explore the effects of different energy sources,” explains Tracey.

“The trial compared the effects of feeding Alfa-A Molasses Free (containing 2% starch) with a cereal-based mix (22% starch) with the same energy level (11.5MJ/Kg DE).

“The horses wore heart rate monitors and their behavioural reactions were also recorded when presented with new situations, such as asking the horses to walk through a curtain of plastic strips.

“The study showed that horses fed the cereal mix were more reactive to new experiences than those fed the fibre and oil diet, and were less consistent in their behaviour. Interestingly they also had higher heart rates than those fed the fibre feed, which suggested they were in a more reactive condition and so perhaps more likely to shy or spook at the novel stimuli. The study has since been replicated in unhandled ponies to try to control for any possible human influence and the same results were found.

“This, along with other studies, provides evidence to back up the theory that fibre should be less likely to cause over-excitable and spooky behaviour .”

Feeding an energetic horse: expert recommendations

For Jane, feeding an energetic horse to match his energy output needs is key.

“That way, he won’t have excess calories to burn. Choosing a mix or cube that meets your horse’s condition and energy needs when fed at the recommended rate will help deliver this.

“Good-doers may get all the calories they need from forage alone so a low-starch, high-nutrient balancer is ideal for providing essential nutrients without the calories associated with a traditional mix or cube.

“Many people believe that a higher protein level can exacerbate excitability, but this is not the case. Protein is rarely used by the horse’s body as a source of energy.”

Jane’s recommendation comes in mix or cube form to suit a variety of palates.

“Baileys Ease & Excel Mix and Cubes are both formulated to be sympathetic to horse’s stomach and digestive system by being low in starch and sugar and providing high levels of slow-release calories from superfibres and oil.

“Both contain top-quality protein sources to build and repair muscle tissue, backed up with boosted levels of vitamins, chelated minerals and antioxidants to support performance, immunity and recovery. It’s ideal for any stressy or sharp horses as well as those prone to gastric ulcers.”

Tracey says: “For those that prefer the convenience of an all-in-one option, Dengie Healthy Tummy is a good choice,” she says. “It is a nutritionally complete fibre feed for optimal digestive health and when fed at the recommended feeding rate, does not require an additional balancer or vitamin and mineral supplement alongside”.

“Healthy Tummy combines chopped and pelleted alfalfa with an oil coating, a high specification of vitamins and minerals, and added herbs for great palatability. Healthy Tummy also contains Protexin In-Feed Formula that supplies prebiotics and live yeast for optimal fibre digestion and digestive support. Based on entirely ‘slow-release’ energy sources, Healthy Tummy is also useful for condition without the fizz.”

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How to keep your horse’s digestive system healthy this winter, plus expert feed recommendations

Bethany Stone — Wed, 16 Oct 2024 15:30:28 +0000

Just like our own human diets, information on feeding horses for gut health can feel at best overwhelming and at worst contradictory. With so many opinions in the ether, how can we make the best nutrition programme for our horses that will actually maintain a healthy gut?

The first port of call is to take the advice of a registered equine nutritionist, which is exactly what we’ve done. We’ve spoken to the experts to demystify the equine gut and get to the bottom of feeding horses for gut health.

Equine microbiome 101

According to Dr Katie Williams MSc (Dist) RNutr, senior nutritionist at Dengie, no one can overestimate the importance of fibre.

“Over time, the minimum amount of forage recommended for maintaining gut health has increased, largely in recognition of the increased prevalence of gastric ulcers,” she explains. “Fibre provided by forages has other important functions, not least that it is utilised by the immune system-supporting microbiota, or ‘bugs’, that live in the horse’s digestive system.

“Beneficial microbes in the digestive tract help to keep potentially harmful ones at bay by out-competing them for resources. If we keep the good bugs well-fed and in an environment they prefer i.e. not too acidic, they should thrive. If we don’t give them enough to eat, they will start to digest the mucus that lines and protects the gut.

“If the mucus layer is eroded, a phenomenon known as leaky-gut syndrome can occur. This means that things that shouldn’t pass through the gut wall can then do so, potentially compromising the horse’s health.”

Feeding a fibre-rich diet is key to keeping the good bugs in the equine gut well fed. Horses who maintain a healthy weight on ad-lib forage are of least concern, but horses prone to weight gain present a challenge.

“If you have a good doer you’re very likely striving to find a balance between feeding enough to maintain gut health but without resulting in excessive weight gain,” remarks Katie.

So, how much fibre is enough? “For long-term health and well-being, a minimum of 1.5% of current body weight on a dry matter basis is recommended to be fed.”

Equine gut bacteria: can I give them a boost?

“Ingredients that support the microbes in the digestive tract are collectively referred to as digestive aids and would include probiotics, prebiotics and more recently postbiotics,” says Katie. “The first point to note is that there are no bacterial probiotics approved for horses, so anything labelled as a probiotic should only contain live yeast.

“Prebiotics, like the ADM Protexin In-Feed Formula in Dengie Healthy Tummy, are not live but are substances that only impact bacteria in the digestive tract – the horse can’t use them as an energy source, for example.

“The relatively new term of postbiotics is a definition introduced to describe inanimate microbes and their components that have been shown to have an effect on the microbial population in the gut.”

Using any of these digestive aids or gut balancers should help to maintain a healthy digestive system and are arguably even more important when horses are challenged by low fibre diets, high levels of stress and medication.

Winter gut health for horses

Equine management is seasonal, so how do we know we are feeding horses for gut health as their routine and menu changes?

“The equine digestive system thrives on consistency,” says Dr. Stephanie Wood PgDip BSc (Hons) RNutr, head of nutrition at Dodson & Horrell. “Yet the changes in management and feeding that often take place in autumn and winter challenge this status, increasing the risk of digestive disturbance.”

As well as feeding a variety of fibre sources to help increase the diversity and stability of gut bacteria, Stephanie also advises owners to be mindful of feeding too much starch.

“Guidelines are to feed a maximum of 1g of starch and sugar combined per kg of body weight per meal,” she explains. “So you simply use the horse’s body weight and convert that to grams to give you the maximum amount of starch and sugar per meal, e.g. 500g for a 500kg horse.”

While staying within these guidelines is easy for horses in light work or prone to weight gain, owners of poor doers and competition horses with a higher workload going into winter have a slightly trickier task.

“Feeding within these guidelines is also possible by splitting the daily amount of feed into multiple meals; most people do this with a morning and evening feed,” says Stephanie.

“The ideal feeds for those needing more energy are those containing a variety of energy sources as they reduce the reliance on starchy cereal grains. For horses that prefer to eat a cube, Dodson & Horrell ERS Cubes are the ideal choice due to their multiple fibre sources, controlled levels of starch and elevated levels of oil and vitamin E.

“For those who prefer a muesli, Dodson & Horrell Elite Sport Muesli is the ideal option as it shares the same nutritional qualities.”

The best of both worlds

While traditionally mixes and cubes have been seen as the energy source in a horse’s bucket feed, given the right circumstances it’s possible to meet a working horse’s energy requirements with fibre alone.

“Some short chopped fibre feeds, such as Spillers Ulca Fibre, contain added vitamins and minerals, which means they can be fed as a full or partial replacement for traditional compound feeds, such as mixes and cubes,” says Sarah Nelson BSc (Hons), product manager at Spillers.

“This combines the benefits of reducing starch intake and extending eating time at meals, which helps horses produce more saliva and provide a natural buffer to stomach acid. “Therefore, where possible, adding a chopped fibre such as Spillers Alfalfa-Pro Fibre to each meal is hugely beneficial for gut health.”

Katie adds: “Scandinavian researchers (Jansson and Lindberg, 2011) did exercise tests with horses just fed on haylage, and they were performing comparably to horses on more traditional rations. Subsequently, Martin et al (2023) have shown that high-quality fibre like alfalfa fed alongside much lower levels of cereals than are traditionally used, can also support elite equine athletes.

“As long as you put the good enough quality fibre in, so they’ve got the energy substrate to use, horses can make use of it – performance isn’t compromised by doing that and there are a number of long-term health benefits to reducing starch intake and feeding more fibre.”

Katie says Dengie’s Alfalfa Original is comparable to a light mix in terms of energy provision. “It does need to be used in line with a balancer or vitamin and mineral supplement.”

“Dengie Cool, Condition and & Shine, when fed at the recommended rate, is a complete feed that’s equivalent to a medium energy mix.”

Equine management is seasonal, so how do we know we are feeding horses for gut health as their routine and menu changes?

Feeding horses for gut health: a vet’s three easy ways

Unrestricted water, fibre mats and adlib forage — Caroline Hughes MRCVS explains the science behind her three golden feeding rules, and why you must follow them in order to keep your horse happy and healthy…

1. Provide unrestricted access to water

This is perhaps the most important rule of them all, because a horse’s body is approximately 80% water.
Horses should drink around 50ml per kg in 24 hours — that’s about 25 litres a day for an average 500kg horse.
Fluid demand rises if a horse has been sweating, is lactating or eats dry hay.
Fresh grass contains moisture, so horses may appear to drink less after grazing.
Signs of dehydration include dark urine that has a strong smell and dark pink/red gums that feel sticky and take more than two seconds to return to their normal colour after being pressed.

2. Feed before exercise

The school of thought used to be that we shouldn’t feed a horse before they are worked but actually, due to the stomach’s sensitive lining, riding on an empty tummy is bad news.
Stomach acid is produced in the lower (glandular) half of the stomach, which has a thick protective lining. However, the upper (non-glandular) part of the stomach does not.
Therefore, an empty stomach results in acid splashing around and hitting the top of the stomach, risking ulceration and discomfort.
Feeding at least a handful of chaff/hay prior to work provides a fibre mat to protect the stomach.
Do not feed concentrates prior to exercise, however, due to the risk of colic.

3. Feed adlib forage

Horses are designed to be continuous grazers and, as herbivores, require a high-fibre diet.
Those that live out 24/7 spend 75% of their time eating, which equates to 18 hours a day.
When stabled, small-hole haynets can prolong eating time to avoid long periods without food.
Providing two sources of forage — perhaps hay on the floor and a haynet — solves the problem of not restricting forage intake while ensuring their supply lasts for longer.
Horses are hindgut fermenters, as their hindgut is key to digestion. That is why their diets should be at least 50% good quality roughage.
Long fibre also encourages chewing, which in turn creates saliva. Saliva is important for digestion and is also a natural pH buffer to stomach acid.

Additional reporting by Aimi Clarke

Top tips help tackle horse weight loss worries ahead of winter

Bethany Stone — Tue, 15 Oct 2024 07:30:00 +0000

Winter weight is something every horse owner has to consider. While some owners look to shift kilos from an overweight horse in preparation for spring, for others keeping weight on their horse is a concern from winter to winter. But if your equine friend is approaching his twilight years or perhaps has a sudden drop in condition, what should you feed him to help him gain weight?

First of all, an unexpected and drastic change in weight is a possible sign of disease and discomfort. As such, it should prompt a call to your vet. Possible causes for such weight loss include:

Teeth: sharp edges may be causing pain and discomfort and reducing intake and resulting in weight loss
Worms: Internal parasites may compete directly for the nutrients inside the digestive tract and taking nutrients from the horse. A heavy worm burden may also result in damage to the intestinal lining, affecting nutrient absorption and leading to weight loss
Pain: horses in pain, especially with chronic back or muscle problems, do not thrive, and a vet should be consulted
Disease: discuss the problem with your vet if the weight loss has happened quickly

However, if your horse routinely loses condition in winter and doesn’t need to, adjustments to management and nutrition will help him maintain his weight when the temperatures fall. If the above options can be ruled out, the next step is to look at the horse’s calorie and nutrient intake, as knowing what to feed your horse to help them gain weight is key.

Why do horses lose weight in winter?

“Horses use the energy contained in their feed to fuel all functions within the body, including maintaining their core body temperature,” says Dr Stephanie Wood PhD, PgDip, BSc (Hons) RNutr, head of nutrition at Dodson and Horrell.

“As the weather turns colder and wetter, the amount of energy the horse uses to maintain their core body temperature increases, although how much energy individuals use for keeping warm is influenced by factors such as how thick a coat they grow, how much protection they have against the cold, wet, and wind, and how well acclimatised they are.

“Horses don’t feel the cold the same as humans do,” she adds, “and are comfortable in much lower temperatures. Their ability to cope with cold temperatures is affected by rain and wind, as both of these factors increase heat loss from the body and thereby the horse’s energy demand.

“To fuel heat production, the horse metabolises its internal fat stores, meaning that throughout winter there is a balance of using fat stores to keep warm and replenishing them from the energy consumed in the feed. If this balance is tipped so that the amount of energy consumed is less than the amount of energy used, weight loss occurs.”

What to feed my horse to gain weight? Think fibre first

Maintaining winter condition for horses who are poor doers means feeding to meet their increased energy demands.

“Ensuring the diet has adequate levels of fibre is the first consideration,” says Stephanie. “Feeding forage ad lib is the easiest way of ensuring they eat enough fibre. This not only supports digestive health, but the fermentation of fibre also creates heat, helping to keep horses warm from the inside.”

According to Dr Katie Williams BSc (Dist) RNutr, senior nutritionist at Dengie, the quality of the forage you feed is also key.

“Forage quality is largely determined by how digestible it is – the older and taller a plant gets, the more lignin, an indigestible feedstuff, is present.

“Late-cut forage will be less digestible than that cut earlier and so if you are looking for weight gain, find a soft, leafy early-cut forage which will be easier for your horse to digest. Poorer quality forage will mean you need to feed more in the bucket, so it’s worth investing in the right forage.”

The importance of tooth condition

Horses with poor dentition are likely to struggle with maintaining condition through winter. “In a Dengie-funded study, horses with poor dentition consumed about two thirds less hay in the same time as horses with normal teeth,” says Katie. “It’s no wonder horses with poor teeth often lose weight!

If you have a horse with dental issues, it’s vital to consider what types of feed will help that horse to gain weight.

“Providing fibre in a form they can manage is often the best way to mitigate weight loss,” continues Katie. “Dengie Hi-Fi Senior or Pure Grass Pellets are ideal as quality forage replacers which can be fed ad-lib. If you want to give a soaked feed, Dengie Alfa-Beet is a super-soft, highly digestible fibre than can be used alongside other condition feeds.”

What to feed my horse to gain weight? Hard feed options

Most horse owners balance their horse’s diet with an appropriate hard feed to deliver the full spectrum of nutrients in the right amounts.

“Conditioning feeds are energy-dense, meaning you don’t need to feed high amounts,” says Stephanie. “Dodson and Horrell CushCare Condition is an excellent conditioning feed option that is particularly suitable for horses who need additional energy but low levels of starch and sugar.

“It also benefits from the inclusion of carnitine for energy metabolism, probiotics for optimum digestive, and joint support, making it the ideal winter feed. Its unique crumble form means it can be fed damp or soaked, allowing you to tailor it to your horse’s tastes.

“For those who prefer to feed a more traditional mix, Dodson & Horrell Build Up Conditioning Mix is recommended. This highly palatable mix is ideal for supplying slow-release energy to support weight gain. Probiotics promote efficient digestion, ensuring horses can maximise their whole diet, whilst high levels of vitamins and minerals balance the diet.”

Tempting the fussy feeder

If your horse is the type to turn up his nose at his bucket feed or lose interest in his haynet, providing a variety of forage types can help maintain his interest and adding appealing tastes and textures to his bucket, or adding a horse lick to his stable, can help pique his interest.

“The act of licking a balancer enhances saliva production, which helps buffer stomach acidity and supports the digestive system,” says Rachel Bowles, equine brand manager at Horselyx. “This is particularly beneficial for horses with sensitive stomachs or those prone to digestive issues.”

She adds: “Horslyx Mint Balancer contains peppermint oil, which is an ideal appetite stimulant for fussy feeders. The appealing aroma and taste of peppermint can encourage horses’ natural foraging behaviour, which can help manage weight by promoting more extended periods of eating and reducing boredom. Plus, it provides a comprehensive blend of vitamins, minerals, and trace elements that might be lacking in forage and grazing. This ensures that your horse receives all the essential nutrients they need for overall health and well-being.”

Winter condition for horses: other considerations

Ensure you are rugging effectively – Don’t scrimp on rugging a poor doer, as the less energy he has to use keeping warm, the better
Access to water – Ensure troughs remain clean and thawed to encourage your horse to stay hydrated
Use an exercise sheet – or invest in a walker rug for if you use a horse walker
Consider your clip – Would your horse avoid getting excessively hot or sweaty with a blanket or trace clip instead of a full clip? Keeping his winter coat partially intact will reduce his energy demand for warmth

Helpful tips for feeding a good doer that lives out during the winter

Carol Phillips — Mon, 14 Oct 2024 15:30:00 +0000

Owners of horses who seem to gain weight on fresh air may find knowing how to feed a fat horse who lives out year-round a real challenge as they try to balance providing sufficient nutrition to cover their essential requirements for good health, without seeing their waistline expand.

Obesity in horses is a real risk to health, with weight-related problems including increased stress placed on limbs and joints, a higher risk of heart disease, circulation problems, digestive disorders and decreased resistance to disease, as well as increasing the likelihood of laminitis occuring.

So if you own a horse or pony who is a good doer, what steps can you take to ensure they achieve a healthy weight and then maintain it? The good news is that going into winter is a great opportunity for these horses to lose weight as nature intended.

Assuming there are no underlying health conditions leading the horse to become overweight, such as equine metabolic syndrome, the most common cause is that the horse is taking on more energy in the form of calories than they are using in exercise, which results in the excess energy being stored as fat.

One of the first things to look at when considering how to feed a fat horse is the quality of your horse’s grazing. This is going to be the primary food source for any horse living out 24/7. If you have a horse that tends to carry too much weight, then this is likely to be the root of the problem, particularly if the horse is in a large field of good quality grass.

While the nutritional value of grass will reduce during the winter months, a field of well-fertilised grazing, such as that produced by farmers for cattle, will still contain a high level of calories for horses to consume.

So how can you reduce the calories from the grass your horse has access to feeding a fat horse ? Equine nutritionist Christine Smy suggests:

Consider the size of your horse’s field – is there a smaller field available?
Could you use electric fencing to strip graze or set up a track system?
Is it possible to use sheep to eat down the grass, so there is less of it for your good doer to munch on?
If none of the above are possible, you may need to use a grazing muzzle to restrict the amount of grass your horse can eat

If you run short of grass in the winter – or there is snow on the ground – then additional forage will need to be supplied to maintain the horse’s gut health, but try to feed hay that has been a late cut if possible, as this typically has a lower nutritional value, or even better, have your hay tested so you know its nutritional value.

Another option is to mix hay with quality oat straw up to a 50:50 ratio to reduce the calories while maintaining plenty of roughage passing through the horse’s gut. Research undertaken by Redwings and the University of Edinburgh in 2020 has found this can be an effective way to help fat horses lose weight. Ruth Morgan, co-author of the study and researcher at the University of Edinburgh, does recommend that anyone feeding a mix of hay and oat straw ensures that their horse’s teeth are in good condition before introducing straw as it does take more chewing — this will also reduce any risk of impaction colic (none of the horses in the 2020 study displayed any signs of colic). Owners should also keep an eye on the horse’s droppings to ensure their digestive system is managing to move the less digestible forage through efficiently.

It’s important that horses living out full-time are getting all the key nutrients needed to maintain good health. Having your hay analysed to check its feed value will help you to ensure your horse is receiving a well-balanced diet. In terms of bucket feed, a feed balancer designed for good-doers combined with a low-calorie chaff will provide all your horse needs with minimal calories.

For Dr Katie Williams Ph.D. MSc (Dist) RNutr, senior nutritionist at Dengie, encouraging trickle feeding as much as possible is key for overweight horses with conditions such as equine metabolic syndrome (EMS) and Pituitary Pars Intermedia Dysfunction (PPID). A consequence of these issues is insulin dysregulation, which means the horse’s hormonal response to eating is disrupted.

“A key function of chopped fibre in the bucket feed is to slow the rate of intake,” she explains. “A study by Ellis et al. (2005) found the addition of chopped straw, at an inclusion rate of 20%, to a ration containing pellets and other chopped fibres resulted in significantly longer eating periods as well as an increased number of chews.

“Other studies have shown that feeding straw as part of the forage ration can slow the rate of intake to such an extent that no discernible insulinemic response results (Jansson et al. 2021), which makes sense when we think about the basic principle of the horse being a trickle feeder.”

While chopped straw is a useful addition to the good doer’s bucket, Katie recommends it is fed as part of a balanced diet as straw contains much lower levels of natural vitamins and minerals than grass-based forages.

“Meadow Lite with Herbs is Dengie’s ultra-low calorie feed, providing just 5MJ/kg of digestible energy,” she says. “It’s also naturally low in sugar (3%) and starch (0.5%) – levels way lower than you would find even in timothy hay. It’s ideal for mixing with a supplement or balancer to ensure the diet is balanced”

She adds: “For those worried about ulcers then Dengie Ulser Lite is a low calorie (8MJ/kg), sugar (6.5%) and starch (2%) fibre feed with added herbs, yeast and prebiotics to promote digestive health. It contains a blend of soft chopped grasses with high-quality oat straw for maximum fibre content while still keeping the calories low. Alfalfa pellets are included for natural buffering due to their high levels of bioavailable calcium.”

To reduce a good doer’s overall calorie intake, Top Spec nutrition director Nicola Tyler BSc (Hons) RNutr recommends looking at the whole diet.

“If you consider that an average 500kg horse would eat between 10 and 15 kilos of forage a day, then what type of chaff you feed at a rate of 125–600 grams per day makes very minimal difference,” she explains.

“You make a far bigger impact with the main forage, and controlling that as much as you can.”

For the good doer, Nicola recommends late-cut meadow hay. “It tends to be lower in sugar and protein, and higher in fibre,” she says.

“For horses who are competing but have got excellent forage and carry their weight well, we would recommend TopSpec Performance Lite feed balancer. For horses who are obese or whose forage intake is restricted due to a condition such as EMS, TopSpec AntiLam forage balancer is ideal. It’s very slightly lower calorie, but has a much higher level of micronutrient support, because it’s those micronutrients that are going to be massively missing in his diet due to such significant dietary restriction.”

Echoing the importance of key micronutrients in an overweight horse’s diet, Sarah Nelson BSc (Hons), product manager at Spillers, says: “Forage only diets often exceed the calorie requirements of good doers, but are likely to fall short of key nutrients including copper, zinc, selenium, vitamin E and lysine.

“Protein is made up of ‘building blocks’ called amino acids, some of which are described as ‘essential’ because they can’t be synthesised by the horse and must be provided in the diet. Lysine is considered the most important essential amino acid and may be deficient in weight loss diets,” she continues. “If a horse’s lysine requirement isn’t met, the body will begin to break down muscle tissue to try and meet demand.

“Spillers Lite & Lean balancer is specifically formulated to balance a calorie-restricted diet and is high in vitamin E and lysine.

“Feeding a balancer alongside a low-calorie short chopped fibre, such as Spillers Fibre Lite Molasses-Free, helps to bulk out the bucket and extend eating time without compromising the good doer’s waistline.”

Other considerations: how to feed a fat horse

If your horse is living out wearing a rug during the winter, it is important to regularly remove the rug to check their physical condition, as well as to allow their skin the chance to breathe and to check for any rubs or injuries that may have occurred. This is particularly important if you’re not riding regularly.

However, ask yourself if your horse really needs a rug? Many native types living out unclipped are able to cope with the worst of the British weather and are likely to be more comfortable without rugs if there is sufficient shelter — either natural or man-made — to allow them to escape from the wind. If you need your horse to lose weight then no rug will allow the horse to use its natural internal warming system to maintain its body temperature, which in turn will help burn the calories it would otherwise lay down as fat.

If your horse has a thick winter coat, it may be difficult to assess their condition by eye, so it’s recommended to get hands-on to assess their body condition score, combined with weekly use of a weight tape, to monitor weight loss or gain. Use the tape weekly at the same time of day and keep a note of the measurements. A gradual weight loss is, as it is in humans, more desirable than losing a lot of weight quickly.

Exercise is a key element of ensuring your horse loses weight. If you are unable to exercise your horse during the winter months, due to limited daylight or other restrictions, then consider the layout of your turnout to encourage the horse to move more. Track systems are becoming increasingly popular as they encouraging the horse to move naturally between areas where they can eat, drink and relax, which can aid weight loss.

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When is this year’s hay safe to feed to your horse?

Rachel Fraser — Tue, 02 Jul 2024 12:00:19 +0000

With the recent fine weather, horse owners across the UK have started to stock up on freshly baled hay — but when is this year’s hay safe to feed to your horse? Ask seasoned horse owners and the response typically varies from “straight away” to “after eight weeks”.

In perfect conditions — where the hay has been baled at less than 12% moisture and is very dry — it is safe to feed straight away, but this isn’t often the case, as Tim Moxon of TM Agri Services Ltd explains: “The main reason for allowing a period of anywhere between two and eight weeks before feeding freshly made hay is to allow for a process called curing to take place.”

Tim continues: “This basically allows the sugars and fermentation process to settle to a safe level before feeding so as not to cause colic. If the hay has been baled very dry at less than 12% moisture, this shouldn’t be necessary as it shouldn’t need to go through the fermentation process.”

However, guaranteeing that the hay has been baled this dry is tricky and can be a risky strategy to take.

Annabel Wells, also of TM Agri Services Ltd, advises: “Although in theory very dry hay is safe, there is always the risk that there could be damp inside the bale so I would never recommend feeding freshly baled hay straight away.

“Some yards do feed it immediately, but in my opinion it’s always better to be safe than sorry.”

If you’re still unsure about when is this year’s hay safe to feed, ask your supplier for their recommendations, while erring on the side of caution, is the wisest course of action. If you are in any doubt, waiting longer should help minimise the risks of feeding new season hay to your horse.

For advice specific to your horse, consult your vet or an equine nutritionist.

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Horse & Hound magazine, out every Thursday, is packed with all the latest news and reports, as well as interviews, specials, nostalgia, vet and training advice. Subscribe today and enjoy the magazine delivered to your door every week, plus unlimited website access and digital versions of the magazine dating back to September 2012.

10 tips to help you take control of your horse’s weight

Gemma Redrup — Tue, 04 Jun 2024 07:30:50 +0000

With rates of obesity thought to be as high as 70% in some populations of ponies, it’s invariably weight loss rather than weight gain that’s needed to keep most of our horses healthy and this means cutting back on the availability of grass to them.

Excess weight can significantly increase the risk of horses and ponies developing laminitis, alongside causing other potential problems ranging from insulin dysfunction to being unable to perform at their best, whether that’s on a relaxing hack or while out competing.

Tips to help you take control of your horse’s weight

1. Use winter wisely every year and allow your horse to lose weight naturally. Being able to see your horse’s ribs is healthy as you enter spring and will give some scope for natural weight gain when the grass starts to grow.

2. Restrict grazing because grass in its growing stages is highly calorific:

Consider turning out overnight when there is likely to be less water-soluble carbohydrate (WSC sugar and fructan) in the grass, but keep an eye on the amount of time you turn your horse out for as the lower level of WSC may be negated if you are turning them out for 16 hours rather than eight hours during the day
Strip graze to restrict the amount of accessible grass and consider back fencing to make grazing restriction more effective.
Consider implementing a track system to reduce grass intake and encourage movement.
Turn out for longer on sparser paddocks with lower quality grazing rather than on lush pasture for a limited time, to prevent binge eating.
Try a grazing muzzle remembering to introduce it carefully and not use it for more than 12 hours per day. Ensure it’s worn for the duration of your horse being turned out to avoid compensatory eating once the muzzle has been removed.

3. Assess faecal output daily to check for changes in pasture intake when you have restricted the grazing. The latest research suggests you need to see a decrease of around half to result in weight loss if the horse previously had unrestricted access to pasture.

4. Don’t use rugs unnecessarily – very few horses need them in summer, even if it’s raining! Instead allow your horse to naturally shake off a few pounds by keeping themselves warm, as nature intended.

5. Feed alternative forage to horses and ponies at very high risk of laminitis. Ideally remove them from pasture altogether and feed a suitable forage/short chopped fibre, preferably one of the feeds that has been approved by the Laminitis Trust.

6. Invest in forage analysis to make sure you know the nutrient and WSC content of the hay or haylage you plan to use for your weight loss programme.

7. Weigh forage before feeding having first discussed with your vet the appropriate percentage bodyweight ration your horse needs to promote weight loss (if soaking start with 20% more dry weight as some dry matter will be lost post soaking). Consider using a slow feeder to extend eating time.

8. Increase exercise to a minimum of 25 minutes (including 15 minutes at brisk trot) five times a week to help keep your horse’s waistline in check and support a healthy metabolism.

9. Provide nutritional support to ensure your horse has a balanced diet. The latest research recommends that a low calorie, protein, vitamin and mineral supplement or balancer should always be included in the diet of horses on restricted forage.

10. Monitor your horse’s weight by regularly reviewing your weight loss programme with your vet or nutritionist. Use a weighbridge for accuracy and then assess and record weight weekly using body condition scoring and a weigh tape (like this one on Amazon).

Equine weigh tape | Amazon
Use this tape to keep track of your horse’s weight.View Deal

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The Horse & Hound Podcast 148: Showing sisters Vikki Smith & Amy Canavan-Smith | NAF Five Star Metazone

Gemma Redrup — Thu, 25 Apr 2024 05:45:27 +0000

On our 148th episode of The Horse & Hound Podcast, supported this month by NAF, we speak to sisters and showing supremos Amy Canavan-Smith and Vikki Smith. They talk to H&H’s showing editor Alex Robinson to discuss all things native ponies and working hunters, including how they got started in the discipline and how to know if your pony has the potential for top level workers. In the second part of this episode, we’ll hear from NAF vet and innovations director, Dr Andy Richardson and NAF head nutritionist Kate Hore in a promotional feature discussing NAF Five Star Metazone. We hope you will enjoy listening.

Episode 148 of our popular audio service The Horse & Hound Podcast, supported this month by NAF, is now live.

Each episode is available for H&H fans to listen to via your favourite podcast app, as well as here on the website. Search for “The Horse & Hound Podcast” in your preferred podcast app and click subscribe to be notified about each new episode.

View all episodes of The Horse & Hound Podcast

On our 148th episode of The Horse & Hound Podcast, in partnership this month with NAF, we speak to sisters and showing supremos Amy Canavan-Smith and Vikki Smith. They talk to H&H’s showing editor Alex Robinson to discuss all things native ponies and working hunters, including how they got started in the discipline and how to know if your pony has the potential for top level workers.

“They might have everything there structurally, but if they’re not going to mentally let you in to train them, it makes your job very difficult” – Vikki Smith on finding the ideal equine partner to show with

In the second part of this episode, we’ll hear from NAF vet and innovations director, Dr Andy Richardson and NAF head nutritionist Kate Hore in a promotional feature discussing NAF Five Star Metazone.

“It’s all about balance and helping the horse’s body to retain a healthy balance. When that balance starts to tip in favour of the unwanted effects, we’re just trying to keep that balance on the positive side” – Kate Hore on NAF Five-Star Metazone

We would love to hear your feedback on all our podcasts, so please do send your thoughts to pippa.roome@futurenet.com

Horse & Hound Podcast: episode 148

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Should you call time on feeding bran mash? Horse & Hound investigates…

Bethany Stone — Sun, 03 Mar 2024 18:30:44 +0000

Feeding bran mash to horses is long associated with traditional horsemanship practices. A straight feed composed of the outer coating of kernels of grain, bran is a by-product of milling grain for flour. Historically, it was mixed with warm water to make a tempting mash for working horses. It was believed to assist with recovery after hard work, replenishing lost fluids and promoting gut mobility. Some Horse & Hound readers still report feeding it today.

Moving with the times

There’s something very nostalgic – romantic, even – about watching your horse eagerly tuck in to a warming bowl of “equine porridge” after a hard day’s work. But as horsemanship practices have moved on, with many owners opting for nutritionally balanced compound feeds or feed balancers rather than straights, is the occasional mash still an appropriate feed for the working horse of 2024?

For Karen Coumbe MRCVS, H&H’s veterinary consultant, bran is not a frequent find in modern feed rooms. “Anecdotally it is said to help by providing fibre and, with the added fluid, reduces the risk of colic,” she tells H&H. “However, it is counterproductive to suddenly change feed by giving a bran mash to your horse.”

Karen adds that bran mash is of somewhat questionable nutritional value.

“Bran has a poor calcium to phosphorus ratio and it’s deficient in key nutrients such a lysine. Furthermore, if you feed huge amounts of bran long-term, horses can develop a condition known as ‘big head’, which is actually secondary hyperparathyroidism. This condition is extremely rare with modern, balanced diets.

“Feeding bran has become increasingly unpopular as although it is perceived as a laxative, it may also irritate the intestinal tract. Ultimately, bran mashes are traditional feeds that are now considered old-fashioned. Most yards no longer seem to feed them and, in fact, rarely have bran in their feed room. When it comes to appropriate nutrition, there are other modern, more sophisticated diets to be tried.”

Spillers Perform & Restore Mash | Amazon
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What is “big head” disease?

“Big head” disease or “bran disease”, is properly known as secondary hyperparathyroidism. It occurs in horses who become calcium deficient alongside consumption of excess phosphorus. This causes the horse to leach calcium from the bones to balance supplies elsewhere in the body. The bones form fibrous growths in place of the lost minerals, causing the head to take on an enlarged, deformed appearance. If caught early and the diet is changed, the damage can be reversed. If not, horses can be left with permanent skeletal damage.

Finding a balance

Independent equine nutritionist Clare MacLeod MSc RNutr tells us that while bran mashes should be fed with caution, wheat products similar to bran are still widely-used ingredients in compound feeds.

“The biggest problem with feeding bran mash to horses is that they are traditionally fed once a week,” she tells H&H. “In doing this, you disturb the horse’s healthy gut microbes. Traditionally, we change feeds gradually – it’s something we all know to do. As long as you feed it every day, and phase it in and out of the diet over the season, you avoid upsetting the microbiome. It’s lovely to treat our horses, but we need to respect their physiology, too.”

Clare, who pioneered her own Confident Horse Feeding Programme, also warned of the dangers of low-calcium-high-phosphorus intake. She adds: “Because bran is so high in phosphorus, you would need to add calcium to balance it out. You can used limestone flour to do this, I recommend a ratio of 42g per kilo of bran.

“Bran can be a useful feed. It’s moderately high in fibre and protein and low in sugar. It’s got a moderately high starch content, so it’s not suitable for low-starch diets, but it’s not a bad feed when fed appropriately and balanced correctly.”

NAF Limestone Flour | Amazon
Limestone flour is a source of calcium that you can add to cereal diets.View Deal

The Horse & Hound Podcast 144: Amateur showing rider Floriann Gilston | Feeding a veteran

Gemma Redrup — Thu, 28 Dec 2023 06:45:49 +0000

On our 144th episode of The Horse & Hound Podcast, which is currently supported by Spillers, we speak to amateur show rider Floriann Gilston. She tells us about her back-story, how she juggles showing with work and she offers some helpful advice too. We also hear from Spillers’ nutritionist Vanessa Allen and Redwings’ lead vet Nicky Jarvis, who provide us with some insight on how to best feed senior horses. We hope you will enjoy listening.

Episode 144 of The Horse & Hound Podcast, our popular audio service, which this supported by Spillers this month, is now live.

View all episodes of The Horse & Hound Podcast

On our 144th episode of The Horse & Hound Podcast, supported by Spillers, we speak to amateur show rider Floriann Gilston. She tells us about her back-story, how she juggles showing with work, and she offers some advice too.

“Hard work and determination are things you definitely need to have, but you need to keep it fun too. Winter is long and hard, so you need to keep it fun for yourself and your horse” – Floriann Gilston on how to keep motivation up during the winter months

We also hear from Spillers’ nutritionist Vanessa Allen and Redwings’ lead vet Nicky Jarvis, who provide us with useful insight on how to best feed senior horses.

“The main part of a horse’s diet, whatever their primary source of calories might be, has a huge effect – if they’ve gone from usually eating 6kg overnight, down to suddenly only managing 5kg… if that is happening every day, it’s obviously a huge portion of their diet that’s being lost” – Vanessa Allen

We would love to hear your feedback on all our podcasts, so please do send your thoughts to pippa.roome@futurenet.com

Horse & Hound Podcast: episode 144

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The Horse & Hound Podcast 143: Emily King | When to call a qualified saddle fitter

(Image credit: Alex Robinson)

The Horse & Hound Podcast 142: Carl Hester on 2023 and the Paris Olympics | Feeding during the winter

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The Horse & Hound Podcast 141: John & Michael Whitaker

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The Horse & Hound Podcast 140: Caroline Powell on her 2010 Burghley win with Lenamore | Feeding a competition horse

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The Horse & Hound Podcast 142: Carl Hester on 2023 and the Paris Olympics | Feeding during the winter

Gemma Redrup — Thu, 26 Oct 2023 05:45:02 +0000

On our 142nd episode of The Horse & Hound Podcast, which is currently supported by Spillers, we speak to six-time Olympian Carl Hester. He looks back on this year’s successes, including winning European team gold and a national championships win, plus he looks forward to next year’s Paris Olympics. We will then hear from Spillers’ nutritionist Georgina Burgoyne, who will talk about conditioning horses with winter coming up. We hope you will enjoy listening.

Episode 142 of The Horse & Hound Podcast, our popular audio service, which is currently supported by Spillers, is now live.

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“I’ve tried to commit myself towards next year. I’m feeling excited about it and I just have to keep my fingers crossed that I’m riding well enough and the horses are going well enough to try and be part of that team” – Carl Hester on the possibility of riding at the 2024 Paris Olympics

We will then hear from Spillers’ nutritionist Georgina Burgoyne, who will talk about conditioning horses with winter coming up.

“In essence, if you’ve got a fat horse, use winter to slim them down, whereas for our poor doers, the aim is to prevent weight loss before it starts – you just need to be proactive and keep an eye on them, which is the best strategy” – Georgina Burgoyne

We would love to hear your feedback on all our podcasts, so please do send your thoughts to pippa.roome@futurenet.com

Horse & Hound Podcast: episode 142

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The Horse & Hound Podcast 141: John & Michael Whitaker

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The Horse & Hound Podcast 140: Caroline Powell on her 2010 Burghley win with Lenamore | Feeding a competition horse

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The Horse & Hound Podcast 139: Hickstead Derby winner David Simpson | Keeping horses hydrated

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The Horse & Hound Podcast 138: Dressage rider Dannie Morgan

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The Horse & Hound Podcast 140: Caroline Powell on her 2010 Burghley win with Lenamore | Feeding a competition horse

Gemma Redrup — Thu, 31 Aug 2023 05:45:25 +0000

Our 140th episode of The Horse & Hound Podcast, which is currently supported by Baileys Horse Feeds, we delve into the history of the Defender Burghley Horse Trials and chat to Caroline Powell, the New Zealand rider who won the event in 2010 aboard the wonderful little grey, Lenamore. We will then hear from Bailey’s Horse Feeds nutritionist Emma Short, who will give us some advice on feeding a competition horse. We hope you will enjoy listening.

Episode 140 of The Horse & Hound Podcast, our popular audio service currently supported by Baileys Horse Feeds, is now live.

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“He’s still my idol – our relationship was similar to a marriage in that we loved each other and hated each other sometimes. He was a special little horse and I think he catapulted me right into the stars and kept us there for quite a long time” – Caroline Powell on Lenamore

We will then hear from Bailey’s Horse Feeds nutritionist Emma Short, who will give us some advice on feeding a competition horse.

“When a horse’s workload is increasing, their nutrient requirements also increase, and choosing the right feed is really important to compliment the forage that you have available” – Emma Short

We would love to hear your feedback on all our podcasts, so please do send your thoughts to pippa.roome@futurenet.com

Horse & Hound Podcast: episode 140

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The Horse & Hound Podcast 139: Hickstead Derby winner David Simpson | Keeping horses hydrated

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The Horse & Hound Podcast 138: Dressage rider Dannie Morgan

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The Horse & Hound Podcast 137: Showing legend Jayne Ross | Expert feeding advice

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The Horse & Hound Podcast 136: Badminton-bound Felicity Collins | Feeding good-doers

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Horse & Hound has a team of reporters covering all the Burghley action. To keep reading on our website after five articles, readers will need to buy a subscription. Visit horseandhound.co.uk/join to buy a Horse & Hound website unlimited subscription or, for great value, visit magazinesdirect.com for a combined magazine and website subscription. If you are already a magazine subscriber, the cost to upgrade your subscription to include full website access is minimal – call 0330 333 1113 to find out more.

The Horse & Hound Podcast 136: Badminton-bound Felicity Collins | Feeding good-doers

Gemma Redrup — Thu, 27 Apr 2023 05:45:28 +0000

Our 136th episode of The Horse & Hound Podcast, which is currently supported by Spillers, features an exclusive interview with young event rider Felicity Collins. She talks about her successful Badminton debut last year ahead of her second crack at the five-star next week. We’ll then hear from Spillers’ senior nutritionist Katie Wakeham, who offers advice on feeding good-doers. We hope you will enjoy listening.

Episode 136 of The Horse & Hound Podcast, our popular audio service, which is currently supported by Spillers, is now live.

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“The Badminton in my head wasn’t quite like the Badminton in real life, but once I settled into it and got used to it, it ended up being one of the best weeks of my life” – Felicity Collins on making her Badminton debut in 2022.

Badminton final scores

We’ll then hear from Spillers’ senior nutritionist Katie Wakeham, who offers advice on feeding good-doers.

“Often the struggle is that we want to keep calories low to avoid excess weight gain while still trying to make sure that our horses are getting all of their required vitamins and minerals. There are two ways of doing this and one of those ways we will talk about today” – Spillers’; senior nutritionist Katie Wakeham

We would love to hear your feedback on all our podcasts, so please do send your thoughts to pippa.roome@futurenet.com

Horse & Hound Podcast: episode 136

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The Horse & Hound Podcast 135: Top young dressage rider Annabella Pidgley | Riding helmet standards

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The Horse & Hound Podcast 134: National Hunt legends Lucinda Russell & Peter Scudamore | Laminitis advice

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The Horse & Hound Podcast 133: Dressage world champion and world number one Lottie Fry

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The Horse & Hound Podcast 132: Leading show horse producer Kirstine Douglas | Feeding your horse for weight gain

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How to watch Badminton Horse Trials

If you are interested in watching Badminton Horse Trials live from the comfort of your home, wherever you are in the world, then you will need to subscribe to Badminton TV. To sign up, visit watch.badminton-horse.tv – click the “Sign Up” link in the top right corner of your screen, then follow the instructions. An annual subscription to Badminton TV costs £19.99 and gives you 365 days of access to all of the content in the Badminton TV library, the ability to watch the action live, and the option to replay all of this year’s action later.

The Horse & Hound Podcast 134: National Hunt legends Lucinda Russell & Peter Scudamore | Laminitis advice

Gemma Redrup — Thu, 30 Mar 2023 05:45:47 +0000

Our 134th episode of The Horse & Hound Podcast, with this episode supported by Spillers, features an exclusive interview with National Hunt trainer Lucinda Russell and Peter Scudamore, who is eight-time champion jockey and now assistant to Lucinda. They reflect on the recent Cheltenham Festival and look forward to the Grand National next month, as well as remembering their big win in the race in 2017 with One For Arthur, who recently died. We’ll then hear from Spillers’ senior nutritionist Isabel Harker, who will give us an insight into laminitis. We hope you will enjoy listening.

Episode 134 of The Horse & Hound Podcast, our popular audio service, with this episode supported by Spillers, is now live.

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“I’ll never forget it – it was wonderful, and I hope we can do the same again this year” – Lucinda Russell on training the winner of the 2017 Grand National

We’ll then hear from Spillers’ senior nutritionist Isabel Harker, who will give us an insight into laminitis.

“Laminitis should be considered a risk for all horses, as it doesn’t just affect ponies or those who are overweight” – Isabel Harker; Spillers’ senior nutritionist

We would love to hear your feedback on all our podcasts, so please do send your thoughts to pippa.roome@futurenet.com

Horse & Hound Podcast: episode 134

Catch up with more episodes of The Horse & Hound Podcast…

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The Horse & Hound Podcast 133: Dressage world champion and world number one Lottie Fry

(Image credit: Alamy Stock Photo)

The Horse & Hound Podcast 132: Leading show horse producer Kirstine Douglas | Feeding your horse for weight gain

(Image credit: Alamy Stock Photo)

The Horse & Hound Podcast 131: International dressage rider Abi Lyle | Teaching horses to stand still | News round-up

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The Horse & Hound Podcast 130: Paul Nicholls | Horses that rear or buck | News round-up

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The Horse & Hound Podcast 132: Leading show horse producer Kirstine Douglas | Feeding your horse for weight gain

Gemma Redrup — Thu, 26 Jan 2023 06:45:02 +0000

Our 132nd episode of The Horse & Hound Podcast, which is supported by Spillers this month, features an exclusive interview with leading show horse producer Kirstine Douglas. She talks about making it in showing, despite being based in Scotland, her top horses over the years and how she got started in the sport. We’ll then hear from five-star event rider Imogen Murray and Spillers’ senior nutritionist Yvonne Judith, who chat about how to help your horse gain weight safely this winter if he’s looking a little poor. We hope you will enjoy listening.

Episode 132 of The Horse & Hound Podcast, our popular audio service which is sponsored by Spillers this month, is now live.

View all episodes of The Horse & Hound Podcast

“Nothing is handed on a plate – you have to work very, very hard. Even nowadays, the younger ones coming through – they just don’t realise what it’s like” – Kirstine Douglas on making it in showing

We’ll then hear from five-star event rider Imogen Murray and Spillers’ senior nutritionist Yvonne Judith, who chat about how to help your horse gain weight safely this winter if he’s looking a little poor.

“Safe weight gain does take time and we can’t expect to see those changes overnight, so it’s really important that we monitor our horse’s weight” – Spillers’ senior nutritionist Yvonne Judith

We would love to hear your feedback on all our podcasts, so please do send your thoughts to pippa.roome@futurenet.com

Horse & Hound Podcast: episode 132

Catch up with more episodes of The Horse & Hound Podcast…

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The Horse & Hound Podcast 131: International dressage rider Abi Lyle | Teaching horses to stand still | News round-up

(Image credit: Peter Nixon)

The Horse & Hound Podcast 130: Paul Nicholls | Horses that rear or buck | News round-up

(Image credit: Peter Nixon)

The Horse & Hound Podcast 129: Carl Hester | Strong horses | News round-up

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The Horse & Hound Podcast 128: Working hunter specialist Kelly Ward | Why horses nap | News round-up

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13 tips for feeding native ponies during the winter

Gemma Redrup — Fri, 20 Jan 2023 13:02:22 +0000

Our native breeds have evolved over thousands of years to graze poor quality pasture on hillsides, plains, and moorland, but by being clever with feeding native ponies during the winter, you can ensure you have a happy and healthy pony when the spring grass arrives.

As we started domesticating and riding our natives for pleasure and sport, we totally changed the environment in which they live, including turning them out on pasture far richer than they have evolved to eat.

This dietary challenge is compounded by the fact that natives are not using as much energy as nature intended to keep warm, thanks to the advent of modern rugs. By rugging our natives their natural winter weight loss can be greatly reduced — meaning they enter the spring carrying too much condition. And, in some cases natives don’t receive as enough exercise as they need.

The result of all these factors mean weight gain is common across all native breeds. But using the winter wisely can play an important role in weight management.

Top tips for feeding native ponies during the winter

1. Native breeds have evolved to put on weight in the summer and live off their fat reserves in the winter. So let them do this; it is fine to have your horse or pony lean at the end of the winter ready for the spring grass.

2. In the coldest of weather a horse’s energy utilisation can rise by 25-30%, so if your horse or pony is a little overweight allow him pull on his stored reserves rather than increasing his feed. Let the weather do some of the hard work for you.

3. Be careful about the rugs he wears. Unless clipped, most horses and ponies do not need thick rugs. Native ponies, especially overweight ones, may not need to be rugged at all.

4. If your pony is turned out all the time over the winter months, he may not need additional forage unless grass availability and quality rapidly decline, or the field becomes covered in snow.

5. If your horse or pony is kept stabled for some of the time, consider how much hay or haylage you are feeding. Most horses or ponies will do well and maintain their weight on a diet that supplies 1.5-2% (dry weight) of their bodyweight in total feed per day, eg. 7.5-10kg for a 500kg horse. If your horse or pony is overweight and you are supplying more than this try adjusting this down. Remember too that although the grass has less nutritional value in the winter, it will be supplying some energy and protein and therefore you will not need to provide the full ration of forage to meet this 2% requirement in the stable overnight. For example, 4-6kg of hay overnight may be sufficient for a 500kg horse.

6. If you are trying to get your pony to lose weight it’s worth having your forage analysed — so you can choose the one with the lowest energy. It is impossible to tell the nutritional quality of forage by looking at it and sometimes hay is richer than haylage.

7. If you do choose haylage, opt for a high-fibre source as it is likely to be lower in energy than a less mature ryegrass source.

8. If you choose hay, go for a mature fibrous one, such as Timothy hay, as this is likely to be lower in calories.

9. Soaking your hay will reduce the water soluble carbohydrate and calorie content. In order to maximise this effect it will need to be soaked overnight (up to 16 hours) ideally in water at or more than 16°C. In winter this can be a challenge, but try raising the temperature at least initially with a few boiled kettles.

10. Regardless of the forage source you choose, it won’t supply a balanced diet. In order to achieve this choose a low-calorie feed balancer. This will provide good quality protein alongside vitamins and minerals making up for any shortfall in the diet without adding unnecessary calories.

11. You may need to restrict grazing by using a grazing muzzle — these have been shown to be highly effective, restricting intake by over 80%. Do make sure it is properly fitted, that your horse or pony can drink and their teeth are checked regularly. Muzzles shouldn’t be used all the time and you should keep an eye on herd behaviour to prevent bullying.

12. If your pony spends a lot of time in the stable, make sure you are not using bedding he can eat.

13. In order to extend eating time, use double haylage nets. As long as your pony has time each day eating from the ground (such as time spent grazing), there is no evidence this will damage teeth.

What the experts say

Katie Grimwood from Bailey’s Horse Feeds shares her expertise on feeding your native this winter:

“Having adapted to thrive on the poorest of grazing, Britain’s native ponies are programmed to put on weight, when food is readily available, in the spring and summer, storing these excesses as fat throughout the body, especially the abdomen (tummy), where it is known as omental fat. These fat cells, originally thought to be benign energy stores, do actually produce hormones which regulate a number of body processes and play a key role in helping ponies survive harsher conditions.

“One such hormone is cortisol, which inhibits the action of insulin, the hormone responsible for controlling blood glucose levels. The result is a degree of insulin resistance, which is normally of benefit as it ensures glucose is available for essential areas, like the brain, at the expense of less essential tissues, like muscles. This condition pervades through the winter but gradually lessens as the pony loses weight, and omental fat, with the naturally reduced availability of food and colder weather conditions.

“By spring time, the pony is lean but healthy and ready to indulge in the pleasures of spring grazing and gaining weight for the following winter. The trouble is, these fluctuations in a pony’s condition are no longer acceptable, nor suitable, for the modern owner, whose requirements for performance or breeding are less satisfactorily met by a pony who spends six months of the year in “poor” condition.”

Emma Nissler, nutritional manager at Dodson & Horrell recommends feeding the following to your native this winter:

“Go Lite Balancer is fully balanced in all essential vitamins and minerals, providing everything the horse or pony needs alongside their forage and grazing each day. It contains added digestive support (probiotic), hoof support (biotin, zinc and methionine) and immune support that consists of our blend of antioxidants (blackcurrant, kale, spinach, beetroot, rosemary, rosehip and pomegranate). It is low in starch and sugar, making it ideal in support of those with laminitis. As it is a balancer, it is low intake and so low in calories, making it ideal for native horses and ponies that naturally hold their weight well.

“The feeding rate of the Go Lite Balancer is 100g/100kg of bodyweight per day. For example, a 500kg horse will need 500g of Go Lite per day.

“Safe & Sound is a fibre-based product. It is fully balanced in all essential vitamins and minerals, providing everything the horse or pony needs alongside their forage and grazing each day. It contains added digestive support (probiotic), hoof support (biotin, zinc and methionine), immune support (QLC antioxidants) and joint support (MSM). All of these are ideal in support of native horses and ponies in light to moderate workloads. It is low in starch and sugar, ensuring its suitability for horses with laminitis, as well as being low in calories and so suitable for native breeds that hold their weight well.

“The feeding rate of the Safe & Sound is 400g-600g/100kg of bodyweight per day. For example, a 500kg horse will need a minimum of 2kg per day (four Stubbs scoops) and up to a maximum of 3kg per day (six Stubbs scoops).”

Insulin Dysregulation

“The problem with not allowing a fat pony to lose weight through the winter is that the insulin resistance, resulting from cortisol production, is not reversed. When allowed to continue long-term, this can result in Equine Metabolic Syndrome (EMS) or Insulin Dysregulation, giving rise to elevated levels of glucose and insulin in the blood and, ultimately, a greatly increased risk of laminitis. Overweight or obese ponies are also likely to suffer with joint problems, struggle to regulate their body temperature (especially in the summer) and be at greater risk of certain forms of colic.”

Healthy condition

“There’s nothing wrong with wanting to avoid the natural season fluctuations in a pony’s condition but our aim should be to maintain healthy condition rather than one that is overweight. Ponies in ‘show condition’ are arguably overweight, and much still has to be done to address the accepted norm, but that is a topic in itself! So how do we achieve healthy condition and feed to maintain it?

“Starving is not a healthy option for any equine so even the overweight must still be fed but their diets must be devised to maximise chew time and minimise calorie intake. Fibre intake must be maintained at 1.5% of bodyweight (around 5kg for a 350kg pony) per day, to ensure gut health and efficiency, and high calorie, low fibre (relatively) grass is only allowed in moderation unless, of course, the demands of work mean that your pony burns off all the calories he consumes so does not store any as fat.

“Stalkier, later-cut forage is generally less nutritious, while soaking hay for up to 12 hours will help “wash” out water-soluble carbohydrates (calories), leaving all-important fibre to keep the pony chewing. Small-holed nets will extend chew time, while other low-calorie fibre sources, like “light” chaffs and soaked unmolassed beet pulp, can be fed to add variety as long as they are accounted for in the overall fibre ration ie. are part of that 1.5% of bodyweight.

“Essential nutrients, like protein, vitamins and minerals, are naturally lacking in modern forage and pasture anyway but are also lost along with the calories, when hay is soaked, and are likely to especially deficient in stressed rough or ‘starvation’ pasture. Feeding a balancer such as Baileys No. 14 Lo-Cal Balancer will provide all these essential nutrients without the unwanted calories of a mix or cube and will support muscle tone, hoof growth, metabolism and general well-being.

“Constant monitoring of a pony’s body weight and condition, through weighing or weightaping and use of an objective Body Condition Scoring (BCS) system are essential for the long-term maintenance of healthy body weight, along with corresponding alterations to diet, exercise and management to achieve healthy body condition.”

5 expert tips for feeding horses this winter

Emily Donoho — Thu, 19 Jan 2023 08:32:06 +0000

Cold weather, rain and grazing low in nutrients — the winter months can prove a feeding challenge for most owners. But these tips on feeding horses in winter can help keep your horse in peak condition

1. Older horses, particularly those with poor teeth, can struggle in the winter and lose condition dramatically. Soaked fibre-replacement feeds are a good addition or alternative to forage when chewing becomes difficult. Teeth should be checked regularly and intake should be monitored. Signs that may indicate poorer dental health can include loose droppings, reduced appetite, long strands of fibre in the droppings or partially chewed and balled up fibres (quidding).

2. From an evolutionary perspective, winter is the season when horses in the wild would slim down by drawing on their fat reserves as the cold weather bites. So, don’t be too quick to supplement the diet of your horses and ponies if they go into winter a bit on the plump side.

3. Maintaining weight is a challenge that worries many owners during the winter months. A feed supplement high in oil can help to boost the calorie intake. Some horses and ponies do increased amounts of work in the winter, particularly those who hunt or continue to compete indoors. As such, feed intake needs to increase to compensate for a higher workload. For those with a tendency to hot up, the best approach is to look for higher energy feeds that are low in starch, but high in digestible fibre and oil. A fibre-based feed that combines chopped high temperature dried grasses and alfalfa with a light molasses and oil coating can be used as a total forage replacer for veteran horses than struggle to chew their normal forage ration.

4. Horses have a strong inbuilt desire to chew and it is difficult to satisfy this in horses stabled 24/7 during the winter months. If ignored, behavioural issues such as wood chewing, windsucking and weaving may ensue. Serious health issues such as colic or gastric ulcers can pose a risk, too. Therefore, access to forage must be plentiful, ideally a constant supply, along with fresh water. Supplementary hay or haylage should also be provided in the field when grazing quality is reduced over the winter months.

5. For horses that have a history of tying-up, the winter’s disjointed and irregular work patterns can be a big problem, especially when associated with an increase in quantity of feed to maintain condition. Regularity of work is important as well as allowing plenty of time to warm up and cool down. A well-balanced diet is essential, but a concentrate that is low in both starch and sugar can be beneficial. An electrolyte supplement should also be provided for feeding horses in winter whenever the horse is working hard enough to sweat, and water intake should be monitored.

Adding oats — and other myths about feeding competition horses debunked

Emily Bevan — Wed, 18 Jan 2023 13:02:55 +0000

Feeding is a complicated science — never more so than with a competition horse aiming for peak performance. Emily Bevan sorts the facts from the fiction

Myth: adding oats to my horse’s feed ahead of a competition will give him an energy boost.

One of the golden rules of feeding is to be consistent, so making any sudden changes to your horse’s diet, particularly ahead of a competition when you are wanting him to perform at his best, is never a good idea.

“An abrupt dietary change can increase the risk of colic, plus during exercise horses, like humans, use stored energy sources not energy directly from their previous meal,” says Yvonne Judith, an equine nutritionist with a focus on competition horses. “This ‘instant’ energy may also cause behavioural issues in some horses — the last thing you want before a competition.”

For a horse to safely receive the full energy benefits that oats provide, he would need to be consuming them daily, rather than just on or before competition day.

“Oats are a great way of adding quick-release energy into the diet for horses who can be lethargic or lacking in energy, but this should not be seen as a substitute for ensuring adequate fitness,” says Katie Grimwood, a nutrition advisor from Baileys Horse Feeds.

Myth: my horse shouldn’t drink after competing as he will get colic.

While all riders and owners are aware of the importance of hydration, many withhold water after exercise as they believe it’s not safe for a horse to drink if he’s hot and sweaty.

However, this isn’t true and a horse’s thirst instinct is at its highest after exercise so it’s important to make the most of this opportunity to rehydrate your horse as soon as he wants to drink.

“Exercise has a direct effect on thermoregulation and fluid balance,” explains Emma Nissler, Dodson & Horrell’s nutritional manager. “The water requirements of competitive horses are affected by several variables that can influence sweat and respiratory fluid losses. Water has a direct and indirect involvement in nearly every physiologic process within the body, and so it is really important to ensure they are rehydrated, especially post-exercise when their natural instinct is at its peak.”

Myth: I should avoid including molasses in my horse’s diet as it will make him excitable on competition day

Molasses is a byproduct of sugar cane or beet so naturally has a high sugar content. While sugar is fine in moderation, many riders and owners believe the high sugar levels in molasses will give their horse too much energy on competition day. However, what they don’t realise is that molasses is already included in most competition mixes in a diluted state to bind the ingredients and dampen the mixture to reduce dust.

“Molasses gets blamed for a myriad of problems, including hyperactivity,” says Saracen Horse Feeds’ senior nutritionist Lizzie Drury. “Molasses supplies the horse with digestible energy because it is composed entirely of sucrose, glucose and fructose. The amount of molasses in a typical helping of a concentrate feed cannot, however, induce hyperactivity.”

It’s important to look at the sugar content in your horse’s diet as a whole rather than singling out specific ingredients.

TopSpec’s nutrition director Nicola Tyler adds: “Molasses contains approximately 50% sugar and its contribution to the total level of sugar in the diet should be calculated before ruling it out.”

Myth: I don’t need to give my competition horse much forage as he gets all the calories and energy he needs from his hard feed

Horses are trickle feeders and need to have regular access to forage to keep their gut mobile. Forage also contains all the essential nutrients a horse requires and should form the basis of every horse’s diet. One of the main components of forage is fibre.

“Fibre supports the way that the horse has evolved to graze and provides a bulk to the feed to maintain and support digestive health,” says Katie Grimwood. “It can also allow the horse to better utilise the nutrients received through the concentrate feed.”

There is a common belief that forage shouldn’t be fed to a horse while travelling or before competition as it gives them colic or slows them down.

“The opposite is actually true,” says Yvonne Judith. “A lack of fibre can increase the risk of gastric ulcers and colic. Fibre does bind water in the gut but the slight increase in weight will not impact performance.”

Myth: if I feed a specific product it will help my horse’s physical development

It’s important to take advice from a nutritionist to ensure you are feeding a balanced diet and are not wasting money on fad products or supplements.

“There is a belief among lower level competitors that feeding a certain product or supplement can help your horse to gain topline without supporting the diet with a structured exercise plan. As a result, owners can be tempted to load the horse up on excess ingredients that he doesn’t actually need,” says Blue Chip Feed’s Emma Nicholls.

Protein is one of the key supplements owners often include, believing it helps condition muscle.

“While protein is required to build muscle tone and topline and is needed for the growth and repair of body tissues, feeding protein alone is not sufficient to promote topline and should be used in combination with correct training,” explains Katie Grimwood.

If your horse is consuming a balanced diet he should be receiving the nutritional support he needs for all areas of development.

“Topline develops from the correct working of the horses’ muscles along the spine to build a ‘top line’. Quality amino acids are required to help build muscle and feeding the correct diet according to the horses’ requirements should provide these amino acids, without the need for additional supplements,” says Anne Priestman.

Myth: we are moving up a level in competition so I’ll increase my horse’s food intake to ensure he has enough energy to cope

“Grassroots competitors are often naïve in what they are feeding their horses and think that when they step up a level they need to increase their horse’s feed intake,” says Emma Nicholls. “The overriding message is ‘my horse needs more energy so I will up his feed’ rather than looking at the type of feed he requires.”

Understanding your horse’s dietary requirements is essential if he is to perform to his best and maintain a healthy weight. Advice from a nutritionist can not only help to ensure your horse consumes the correct feed, but also that he receives the appropriate quantities.

“Another common misconception is that feeding ‘high energy’ feeds can help to improve energy levels without causing weight gain,” explains Katie Grimwood.

“Calories are just units of energy, so high energy feeds are also high in calories. Although feeds such as competition mixes or straight oats can work to an extent, if used they should be incorporated as part of a fully balanced diet and in combination with a suitable fitness regime.”

Myth: my horse performed well today in tough conditions. I’ll give him a bran mash when we get home as it’ll be good for him

While a bran mash may be considered a warm, comforting treat and it can help increase your horse’s water intake, if it is not a regular component of his diet it has no place in his feed bucket.

“Recovery is such an important part of any horse’s routine, especially competition horses that are in harder work,” explains Emma Nissler, Dodson & Horrell’s nutritional manager. “While ‘recovery’ feeds are tempting to add into their meals on a competition day, it is more likely to be effective as part of their regular concentrate ration.

“For horses in hard work, that sweat heavily during exercise and travel, the addition of electrolyte salts (sodium, chloride, potassium, magnesium and calcium) will ensure the nutrients lost through sweat are replenished efficiently and will positively influence recovery time. Performance feeds will sometimes contain added electrolytes already, but if not, electrolytes can be added to their meals a day before, the day of, and up to two days post-competition.”

“Abrupt dietary changes are never a good idea and bran is no exception. Bran is not balanced, especially in terms of calcium and phosphorus, and can actually be quite abrasive on the digestive system,” says Yvonne Judith. “Also be warned: some products marketed as mashes, especially within Europe, can be very high in starch which could contribute to colic, tying up or behavioural problems.”

(Image credit: Lucy Merrell)

The golden rules of feeding horses that all owners should know

(Image credit: Lucy Merrell)

How to reduce your horse’s vet bills this winter

Pippa Roome — Wed, 16 Nov 2022 13:02:24 +0000

The cost of living crisis is hitting everyone across the UK and we’d all like to know how to reduce vet bills for our horses – without compromising their welfare.

Veterinary care is expensive and new horse owners don’t always fully factor in these costs. It is better to work with your vet to plan your horse’s healthcare than to call the vet only when something goes wrong, which can mean expensive treatment that could have been avoided.

Cancelling or cutting back on horse insurance – or dipping into your emergency fund for routine bills – could prove a very expensive mistake, so make sure you do keep your rainy day provisions in place.

Routine vet care essential to reducing vet bills for horses

All owners should ensure horses receive routine veterinary care; cutting corners here is a false economy which compromises welfare and can lead to larger vet bills for horses in the long run. Horses are stoic creatures and often hide pain until it is serious, but detecting issues early can mean less expensive treatments are sufficient, and horses often have a greater chance of recovery.

Preventative medicine includes equine vaccinations, dentistry and testing for worms and your vet practice may be able to offer a check-up or MOT alongside this care, to spot other issues before they become serious. Preventative care also helps minimise drug resistance to wormers and antibiotics, so treatment can be targeted better and we avoid unnecessary use of drugs, which is a serious ongoing problem in the horse world and beyond.

Veterinary practices may also provide discounted healthcare packages, combining vaccinations and dentistry and offering add-ones such as worm egg counts and blood tests.

By putting in place good preventative measures, your horse will hopefully enjoy good health and you will enjoy low vet bills. Don’t let that make you complacent and relax your routine healthcare, though, as inevitably that will be when disaster will strike.

Zone visits and yard discounts

Many vet practices offer zone visits, where vets concentrate non-emergency calls in a set area on a particular day of the week. Some practices also offer yard discounts, where multiple horses are seen in one visit. Do ask your practice whether these are available.

Old friends – and the final decision

When owners need to cut costs, they sometimes curtail veterinary care for older, retired horses and ponies, but these equines need as much healthcare as any horse, sometimes more. If you cannot afford suitable care for a retired horse, the responsible thing to do is to give him a humane end and have him put down.

Equine euthanasia is a difficult subject, but all owners should have enough money saved for this eventuality. Costs vary according to the method, plus there will be a fee for disposal of the body.

Have a chat with your vet about options at a time when there is no pressing need for that conversation – it is better to have decided what you want to do in advance than to have to make difficult choices (and worry about costs) in an upsetting emergency situation.

Importance of feeding fibre for healthy horses all-year round

Carol Phillips — Fri, 21 Oct 2022 07:02:00 +0000

The modern horse still has its ancestors’ gut design – that of a fibre-digesting herbivore. This means that two-thirds of the digestive tract is devoted to fibre digestion through fermentation, while just one-fifth is able to process protein, oil and starch from cereals.

For horses in light work, feeding regimes typically match digestive design, as most of the diet is forage. However, for horses in medium to hard work, low-energy forage may not provide sufficient energy. In this situation additional feedstuff is required to counter the shortfall in energy, ensuring the horse can maintain condition and have sufficient stamina to do the work required.

Traditionally, cereals were fed to horses to provide energy, but this typically includes high levels of starch, which the horse’s digestive system is not designed to cope with. If the cereals are not fully digested before they pass into the hindgut, this can lead to problems including colic, excitable behaviour and changes in temperament. As a result there has been an increasing trend towards feeding fibre and oil as energy sources to horses that need more than a basic forage diet.

Fibre as an energy source

Fibre can provide the horse with energy, as well playing an important role as a filler, to help prevent gastric ulcration and aid digestion. Made up of a complex of carbohydrates and compounds, it is broken down by bacterial fermentation in the hindgut.

Fibre is made up of lignin, cellulose and hemicellulose. Lignin is indigestible, and feedstuff with high lignin levels, such as straw and mature seed hay, have a low energy content. Cellulose and hemicellulose are digested by bacteria in the hindgut. The higher the levels of cellulose and hemicellulose, the more energy the forage or fibre-based feeds have to offer. If you are unsure what level of energy your forage is providing then it may help to have it analysed by a professional.

While all horses should receive ad-lib forage as the basis of their diet, good quality fibre is particularly useful for:

Horses requiring stamina – another facet of fibre digestion is that the energy is slow release, capable of sustaining work for a long period, making it ideal for hunters and endurance horses
Horses with loose droppings – check to see they are getting sufficient long fibre in the diet
Those prone to laminitis, colic and tying up – these problems can all be related to disruptions in fibre supply through the gut
Whenever grass quantity drops – particularly relevant during hot summer and winter. As soon as grass growth slows, a horse eats less fibre each day.

For gut health and general welfare, horses (other than those on a weight-loss programme) should ideally be fed forage ad lib, and at least 15gDM/kg bodyweight (i.e. 1.5% of bodyweight). This would mean giving a minimum of 7.5kg forage DM for a 500kg horse per day. This equates to 8.5kg of a 90% DM hay, or 11kg of a 70% DM haylage. Even those horses in very high intensity work should be fed forage amounting to at least 12.5g DM/kg bodyweight (i.e. 1.25% of bodyweight).

How to feed your horse during his winter holiday

Horse & Hound — Thu, 20 Oct 2022 12:02:16 +0000

The rules of good feeding state “feed according to work done”, so if you are planning to give your horse a break this winter, you will need to adjust his feed accordingly, but those same rules state that “changes in feeding must be made gradually”, so what is the best way to go about this?

The main reason for cutting feed is to reduce the calorific and, more specifically, the starch and sugar component of the diet, to avoid weight gain, excitability or muscle problems, particularly for horses susceptible to the condition widely known as tying-up, azoturia or ERS. But if your horse needs to put weight on during his break, then this requires a different plan of action.

Nicola Tyler, nutrition director at TopSpec shares her top tips for feeding a horse that is about to be turned away or is already on a winter holiday.

“The general principle is that you can reduce the amount of hard feed fed to a horse a lot quicker than you can introduce it, providing there is ample forage available — it won’t upset a horse’s digestive system to cut hard feed out straight away.

“If your horse is having a short holiday (three weeks or less) and is in good condition, you are usually fine to feed a vitamin, mineral and salt-based feed, such as a balancer, or an all-round vitamin and mineral supplement mixed with chaff.

“If your horse needs to gain weight while he is on his holiday, then continue to feed hard feed designed with weight gain in mind, but if your horse needs to lose weight, then this is a great opportunity to achieve that by reducing calories to a minimum.

“A fit competition horse can have a holiday for three weeks and hardly lose any of its fitness — if your horse is only off for this period of time, then feed a balancer to help keep microflora healthy in the gut.

“If your horse is off for a longer period of time, maybe up to six months or a year, feed only forage and an appropriate balancer — for example a light balancer in the summer and one high in protein in the winter as grass has significantly less protein content during the cooler months.

“Always make sure clean, fresh water and a salt lick are available as there is hardly any sodium in grass and a lack of it can lead to health issues, such as tying up.”

Lucy Smith, a professional groom agrees, saying that each individual horse is different and so they must be treated on a case-by-case basis when roughing off for the winter.

“Each horse must be treated as an individual, but as a rough guide we tend to reduce a horse’s workload steadily — it would be unfair to expect a horse to settle if you throw them straight out in the field when they have been in full work,” she explains.

“We do this by putting horses on the walker for less and less time, or perhaps taking them for a gentle hack to help their brains wind down. Same goes for rugging — by making changes gradually it give the horse time to adjust and they are more likely to go out on holiday in the right frame of mind.

“As hard feed is reduced and cut out, we feed ad lib forage in the form of hay or haylage in the field to keep the gut healthy — a horse will never be without hay or haylage while on holiday. We tend to keep a rug on horses throughout their winter holidays — but these will be taken off so the horses’ can be checked regularly during their time off.”

Tracey Hammond from Dengie adds: “Alfa-A Molasses Free combines chopped and pelleted alfalfa with a rapeseed oil coating and the added herbs mint and fenugreek. Based on entirely slow-release energy sources Alfa-A Molasses Free is ideal for condition without the fizz and the added pellets and herbs are great for fussy feeders. For those that need a lower calorie option Hi-Fi Molasses Free combined chopped and pelleted alfalfa and straw with a light oil coating and the added herbs mint and fenugreek. These feeds should be combined with a broad-spectrum vitamin and mineral supplement or balancer to provide a balanced ration.”

Turmeric for horses: what is all the fuss about?

Lottie Butler — Thu, 11 Aug 2022 15:32:43 +0000

An increasing number of horse owners are turning to turmeric as a supplement for their horses. Lottie Butler finds out what it’s used for, the research behind it and looks at options on the market.

What is it about turmeric for horses at the moment? For many of us, it is just that colourful peppery spice added to Asian dishes for colour and flavour. However, an increasing number of horse owners are turning to turmeric as a supplement for their horses; a natural remedy that has been proven to be beneficial for humans and is believed to help ease a whole range of health problems in horses — from joint stiffness to skin irritations. Some owners even swear it helps horses suffering from sarcoids.

Turmeric for horses: what is it used for?

Turmeric has long been prevalent in ancient Indian and Chinese medicines as a powerful anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant used by people suffering from a wide range of conditions, including diarrhoea, respiratory infections, dermatitis, and even cancerous tumours. Though more commonly used in the West as a condiment, there is growing awareness of its therapeutic properties.

Global Herbs, specialists in equine supplements, has been using turmeric in its products for many years. Both Flyfree, an anti-fly feed supplement that you can find on Viovet, and its Skratch products, a range formulated to support horses with skin conditions (also on Viovet), contain turmeric.

“Turmeric is suitable for horses suffering from stiff joints and itchy skin conditions, as well as offering support to the digestive system,” says Becky Darby, product advisor at Global Herbs. “A lot of people feed it to provide support to horses whose joints are under stress.”

Due to customer demand, the company then launched a turmeric supplement – Tumeric Gold, which is available from Viovet.

“Our supplement consists of pure powdered turmeric and black pepper, which aids absorption of the active ingredient into the body,” says Becky.

The main active ingredient in Turmeric is curcumin, a compound found to have powerful anti-inflammatory effects in humans. It is also a strong antioxidant, that is useful for soothing stiffness and pain, maintaining good digestion and alleviating skin conditions in people.

What’s the evidence that turmeric can help your horse?

However, it’s worth noting that there have been no definitive clinical trials to support turmeric’s medicinal impact or establish an effective dose for horses.

“There is no research into the safety and long-term effects of feeding turmeric,” advises equine nutritionist Zoe Davies. “Curcumin is well-studied in humans and has proven properties, but horse owners should be aware that it is not the only biologically active compound in turmeric.

“Turmeric only contains about 2½-3% of curcumin — experimental data suggests it could take as much as 250-500g turmeric to deliver an effective dose to a horse.

“Similarly, curcumin can affect iron metabolism in the horse’s body, which could contribute to development of anaemia. As such, turmeric isn’t advisable for horses with any kind of chronic disease or anaemia,” adds Zoe.

How should turmeric be fed?

If you do decide to feed turmeric to your horse, it might be beneficial to feed it in conjunction with one of the best oils for horses and black pepper to help the absorption of the herb into the system.

“We always recommend to mix it with flax oil – which is rich in omega oils and good for the joints and coat,” says Becky. “The quantity really depends on size of horse. For a horse of about 500kg, we would suggest a heaped tablespoon of turmeric per day (approx. 25mg), mixed into a paste with 2 tablespoons (approx. 50ml) of oil.”

As with any feed, turmeric should be introduced to the horse’s diet slowly, built up gradually over the course of a week or two. “For the fussy eater, you could add a little apple puree or juice to sweeten it up, but I am yet to come across a horse that won’t eat it,” says Becky.

NB: If you believe your horse is suffering from a medical problem, H&H recommends that you speak to your vet in the first instance for diagnosis. If your vet suggests that a nutritional supplement might be beneficial, then speak to a qualified equine nutritionist for advice.

Turmeric supplements: what’s on the market?

NB: Cost per day has been calculated using the maintenance measure for a 500kg horse in light work (where there was variation) and the RRP of the smallest available tub. Feeding larger amounts – for example, if you have a larger horse or need to feed a loading dose initially – will increase the cost per daily measure, while buying a larger tub will likely decrease it – these costs per day are a guide only.

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

Global Herbs Turmeric Gold

Sizes: 1.8kg

RRP: £15.50

Daily measure: 16g

Cost per day: £0.14

In the UK? View now at amazon.co.uk, viovet.co.uk, gsequestrian.co.uk or hyperdrug.co.uk

In the US? View now at amazon.com

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

NAF Turmeric Plus

Sizes: 2kg

RRP: £15.99

Daily measure: 36–54g

Cost per day: From £0.29

In the UK? View now at amazon.co.uk, viovet.co.uk, gsequestrian.co.uk, petdrugsonline.co.uk or hyperdrug.co.uk

In the US? View now at amazon.com

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

Dodson & Horrell Turmeric

Sizes: 2kg

RRP: £20.63

Daily measure: 30g

Cost per day: £0.31

In the UK? View now at amazon.co.uk, viovet.co.uk, gsequestrian.co.uk or hyperdrug.co.uk

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

Equine America Turmeric Xtra

Sizes: 3kg

RRP: £20.99

Daily measure: 50g

Cost per day: £0.35

In the UK? View now at equine-america.co.uk, amazon.co.uk, viovet.co.uk, gsequestrian.co.uk or naylors.com

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

The Golden Paste Company TurmerAid

Sizes: 2kg, 15kg

RRP: £23.20 for 2kg

Daily measure: 50g

Cost per day: £0.58

In the UK? View now at amazon.co.uk, viovet.co.uk or gsequestrian.co.uk

Can horses eat strawberries? H&H investigates…

Gemma Redrup — Thu, 12 May 2022 07:32:30 +0000

Can horses eat strawberries? The answer is yes, and they can actually be useful for hydrating your horse and boosting their immune system.

However, although strawberries are perfectly safe for most horses, that may not be the case for all of them. If you want to feed your horse a strawberry, introduce the food slowly into their diet and closely monitor how they react. If you suspect any medical concerns following your horse eating strawberries, contact your vet.

Can horses eat strawberries and how can they benefit them?

Strawberries are rich in vitamins, fibre, antioxidants, minerals, and water. The fruit contains a high level of vitamin C, E, and K. It also has magnesium, phosphorus, calcium, and potassium.

Horses can eat strawberries, but make sure you cut them up first to help prevent choking.

How many strawberries should a horse eat?

You should feed no more than six to 10 strawberries per week, and ideally, no more than one to two per day. It is important you wash the strawberries prior to feeding them to your horse as they might have residual chemicals or pesticides on them. You also shouldn’t feed your horse mouldy strawberries as this could make them ill.

Remember that strawberries contain a lot of sugar and colic may be a risk if horses are over-fed them.

Is your horse partial to an unusual form of treat? Let us know your stories by emailing hhletters@futurenet.com, including your name, nearest town and county, for the chance to have your letter published and you might win a bottle of Champagne Taittinger

Understanding probiotics: your complete guide

Martha Terry — Mon, 25 Apr 2022 06:02:00 +0000

The use of probiotics for horses can be beneficial when a horse is convalescing after illness, or his digestive system is being exposed to the stress of competition or changes to routine. However, only a small number of studies support the use of probiotics in horses and therefore consulting both a vet and nutritionist is a wise course of action before adding to the feed indiscriminately.

Stress alters the level of acidity in both the upper gut (small intestine) and hind gut (caecum and colon) allowing opportunistic “bad” or non-beneficial bacteria to multiply and overwhelm the “good” bacteria.

If left unchecked in the horse’s small intestine, bad bacteria, such as Salmonella and E. Coli, can cause health problems.

Probiotics consist of various naturally occurring lactic acid-producing bacteria that encourage the growth of beneficial bacteria already present in the horse’s small intestine. Essentially they deliver live bacteria to your horse’s digestive tract, ideally colonising the digestive tract and helping improve your horse’s overall health and digestion. Probiotics may help maintain proper pH levels, absorption of nutrients, feed efficiency and immune health. Adding them to the feed can be helpful in horses that have difficulty maintaining weight, are susceptible to hindgut issues, or are prone to loose stools.

H&H vet Karen Coumbe points out: “Many years ago we use to feed live yoghurt and historically horses were stomach tubed with gut contents from another horse, but now there are products that can be easily administered as pastes [or powders]. The key thing is for horses to have healthy bacteria and other micro-organisms in their hindgut to help fermentation and digestion.”

How probiotics work on horses

Probiotics work in three ways:

Rebalance acid levels in the small intestine
Use the food needed by bad bacteria
Prevent bad bacteria from colonising the horse’s gut wall.

They also:

Protect against the effects of stress
Boost the immune system
Reduce side-effects of antibiotics
Protect against gastric problems
Promote efficient digestion
Increase milk in lactating mares.

Choosing a probiotic for horses

There is a big difference between probiotics and feed balancers.

A probiotic is a mixture of live bacteria designed for the upper gut to improve its efficiency and is fed in grammes per day. They often feature in gut balancers and digestive supplements for horses.

A feed balancer is a complete feed that contains vitamins, minerals, cereals and protein sources to balance any forage deficiencies. The recommended feeding level is usually 1kg per day. Often they contain yeasts, as do other feeds that are recommended to be fed at higher levels.

The equine industry often describes lactic acid-producing bacteria supplements that help the upper gut as probiotics. Yeast cultures (which are also technically probiotics) help the function of the horse’s hind gut. Both need to be fed for relatively short periods. Choose a product that targets the part of the gut you want it to.

Karen Coumbe says that choosing a probiotic should be done judiciously, as it is not always easy to tell if a product works.

“Unless they are prescription medicines, controls are less strict and it is hard to be sure what the contents include or how efficacious they are,” she says. “I would suggest owners need to look at overall horse health to include good diet, as normal an environment/diet as possible, for example: turn-out, grazing and limited rich concentrate feeds, minimise use of antibiotics that may affect gut health.

“I would also ensure sensible parasitic worm control with regular faecal worm egg counts and pasture hygiene (poo picking) rather than routinely using dewormer medications that can lead worms to build up resistance to such medication and potentially have other harmful effects.”

What are prebiotics?

Some formulas contain both probiotics and prebiotics. The difference between the two is that prebiotics do not introduce new bacteria to the horse’s digestive tract. However, prebiotics do promote the health and growth of micro-organisms already living there. They essentially act as a food source for your horse’s existing gut microbes.

Probiotics contain live bacteria, essential for a healthy gut, while prebiotics basically provide food for these “good bacteria”.

Grow your own horse treats: a guide for the green-fingered

Rachel Fraser — Wed, 23 Mar 2022 13:02:12 +0000

The green shoots of spring have arrived in the UK, so if you’re trying to keep your overall cost of living down and are green-fingered, why not try growing your own horse treats? Rachel Fraser shares some easy-to-grow plants that are likely to go down well with your horse…

Cleavers

You may well already have cleavers growing in your garden or field hedgerows. Also known as ‘sticky weed’, cleavers grow well in hedgerows, overgrown or wild flower areas and around trees.

Believed to be a natural tonic, cleavers are a popular choice for owners growing their own horse treats — some pick enough to fill a haynet, while others let their horses forage for themselves when cleavers are planted in a field.

To grow them at home, sow seeds directly into the soil in shaded areas for best results.

Find cleavers seeds at etsy.com

Mint

No surprises here — shop-bought mints have long been a staple horse treat. Hailed for helping fussy-eaters enjoy bucket feeds, mint is readily sold in its dried form as a supplement. Why not have a go at growing mint and swap shop-bought for fresh?

Mint plants can be purchased from most garden centres and some supermarkets. Simply plant up into a large pot of compost for easy harvesting. A pot is recommended to avoid the plants from rowing uncontrollably and taking over your garden.

Pick mint leaves frequently to encourage new shoots to grow and you should have a plentiful supply from spring to late autumn.

Find mint plants at amazon.co.uk

Cow parsley

Cow parsley has delicate white flowers and often grows on roadsides and verges — your horse may well have grabbed a sneaky bite of it to eat while out on a hack.

According to the Wildflowers UK website, seeds should be sown either outside where they are intended to flower or into seed trays in the autumn.

They flower from April to June and prefer semi-shade, so areas near to hedges are ideal. A word of caution though — cow parsley tends to seed itself well, so you may end up growing more of it than you originally planned.

Find cow parsley seeds at amazon.co.uk

Nettles

Nettles might not seem like an obvious choice but once cut and allowed to wilt, they lose their sting and become a delicious treat.

You might have some growing in your fields already, in which case simply cut, harvest and feed once the sting has gone.

If you’re starting off a new crop, plant seeds into pots of compost and cover with a few centimetres of soil. Keep the pots well-watered until the seed has germinated, usually within about two weeks.

Find nettle seeds at amazon.co.uk

Hawthorn

Hawthorn makes a popular and tasty treat for horses. Where it is growing in paddocks, horses will often self-select the plant to supplement their grazing. Hawthorn berries are sometimes sold as a supplement, believed to support circulation.

Hawthorn grows into trees eventually, but can be purchased as a young plant. These are much smaller and may be more manageable for those looking to grow them in large pots or in the garden at home.

Gardening website lovethegarden.com suggests that hawthorns aren’t too fussy about their position, so you can grow them in most areas — sunshine or shade. The website advises that bare-root trees are best planted between November and March, but container-grown Hawthorns can be planted any time of year.

Growing your own horse treats is a great way to make use of hedgerows and add variety to your garden or yard — so why not get green-fingered and give it a go?

Find hawthorn plants at amazon.co.uk

NB: Horse & Hound recommends that all treats should be fed in moderation. If your horse has any existing health conditions, please seek expect advice from your vet or equine nutritionist before feeding them any of the above plants.

What’s the best type of oil to feed to horses?

Martha Terry — Sat, 26 Feb 2022 00:00:00 +0000

Adding one of the best oils for horses to your horse’s feed is a low-cost supplement, however it’s important to understand the reasons for including it, the benefits and which oils are best. Horses digest oil well, and it is a concentrated source of calories that can help horses gain weight while providing slow-release energy. While oil can be an appropriate energy source for excitable horses who might hot up on traditional starch-based diets, conversely it’s not recommended for overweight horses or good-doers. Additionally, a high-oil diet should be balanced with antioxidants (usually vitamin E) to minimise oxidative damage.

The benefits of oil

To provide essential fatty acids (EFAs), which are useful for general health and vitality
To add body condition. Oil is very energy dense, having nearly three times the number of calories as carbohydrate. Just 300ml of oil provides the same amount of calories as a kilo of oats. As it is easily digested and absorbed, it is an excellent way to maintain weight
As an energy source. Oil is a very accessible source of muscle fuel for horses, particularly those in endurance-type work. Due to its relatively slow breakdown, it’s ideal for horses that tend to “fizz up” or tie-up on cereal starch, also avoiding other health risks associated with cereal diets, such as gastric ulcers and laminitis
To boost coat condition in healthy horses
To relieve stiff joints and arthritis in older horses. However, oil levels should be reduced if the horse has liver problems.

Does my horse need extra oil?

If your horse is prone to weight gain, then definitely not. However, for horses needing to put on weight it is a great way of increasing the calories and providing slow-release energy when his maximum meal size has been reached, or you want to go easy on the starch content.

“If you have a horse that struggles with weight gain, has a small appetite or is a picky eater, adding oil can work really well to help keep meal sizes small but pack in the calories to help with weight gain,” says Saracen nutritionist Stephanie George. “But additional oil isn’t necessary for all horses as it is so calorie-dense, so consider the type of horse you have before adding it to the diet.”

NAF head nutritionist Kate Hore points out that “in the horse’s natural diet, grass is actually a great source of omega fatty acids”.

“Grass contains around 3–5% fat, and provides more Omega 3 than Omega 6, which is preferable, which explains why our horses’ coats naturally shine in summer,” she says. “Levels are lower in preserved forage and poor in cereals. Therefore, particularly if your horse does not have access to fresh grass growth, adding a little oil to the diet can be advised.”

Some horses may benefit from added oil to support their skin and coat health, if they do not already have a skin and coat supplement. Spillers nutritionist Sarah Nelson says: “Although there’s no substitute for a balanced diet and good grooming, a small amount of oil can be the icing on the cake for achieving the ultimate show ring shine.”

Sarah points out that, “if fed the appropriate amount of feed and/or feed balancer, many horses don’t need additional oil”, and warns that the “difference in cost between adding larger amounts of oil and switching to a higher oil feed may be negligible”.

Which oil should I feed?

Some owners buy their horse’s oil at the supermarket while others choose specialist feed merchants. There’s a bewildering array of linseed, rapeseed, sunflower, soya and marine – which is best?

“All oils are definitely not created equal,” says Kate. “They all provide the same energy density but differ in their ratios of Omega 3 and 6 fatty acids. Omega 3 is naturally anti-inflammatory, while Omega 6 is pro-inflammatory, although that isn’t always a bad thing, such as in triggering immune responses to speed up wound healing. However, we definitely want a positive ratio with more Omega 3 than 6.”

Kate acknowledges that although marine oil, such as cod liver, is good for joint health, “not all of use choose to feed it to horses, whether on ethical grounds of over-fishing, or that we don’t believe it be part of the natural equine diet”.

“At NAF, we advise either choosing linseed, which is naturally high in Omega 3, or a linseed-based Omega blend, to give a positive ratio with more Omega 3 than 6 but the benefits of both. Supermarket vegetable oil is nearly always rapeseed or sunflower, and both are very low in Omega 3 and middling to high in Omega 6. The balance is pro-inflammatory, certainly not the way we want to go.”

Spillers’ Sarah Nelson says: “Some owners prefer linseed oil [because of the Omega ratios] but the ideal Omega 3: Omega 6 ratio has not been established in horses. Some horses also find linseed oil less palatable. The quality of the oil fed (it should be human-grade) is more important than type, with corn, rapeseed and linseed all being suitable options. Regardless of the type of oil you choose, speak to a nutritionist before feeding more than 100ml/day to ensure your horse’s diet provides a sufficient level of vitamin E.”

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The main reason for not buying your horse’s oil in the supermarket is because of the risk of contamination.

“We cannot expect the supermarket to be concerned about a positive test in a competition horse, and they won’t be monitoring for Naturally Occurring Prohibited Substances [NOPS] so the risk of accidental contamination is always there,” warns Kate, while Sarah adds: “If your horse is competing, opt for an equine product that is BETA NOPS approved.”

However, it’s worth remembering that oil doesn’t just come in a bottle. Pellet oil in a rice-bran supplement, such as Saracen’s Equi-Jewel (which you can find on Amazon), may be a better choice for those feeding a lot of oil.

“It takes the messiness away from feeding large quantities of oil and helps increase palatability,” says Stephanie. “Liquid oil goes rancid quickly when exposed to air and light, whereas pelleted oil is stabilised, so it keeps for longer.”

Specialist forms of oil in pelleted options and fish oil specifically for horses are available in feed stores.

How much oil should I feed?

It can take up to 12 weeks for horses to adapt to a high-oil diet.

A high-oil diet must be balanced with antioxidants, such as vitamin E. NAF recommends 1 IU (international unit) of supplementary vitamin E for every millilitre of oil fed.

Can feeding a balancer help a horse on box rest?

Emily Donoho — Fri, 14 Jan 2022 13:32:51 +0000

Few aspects of horse ownership are as worrying as an injured horse, stuck on box rest. Managing their diet and feeding a horse on box rest is one of the major problems owners need to address, because the horse cannot graze and forage naturally, potentially for months. Lacking exercise or any movement, some horses will put on weight. Others will stress the weight straight off. And box rest increases the risk of colic, as the horse’s digestive system functions best when the animal is moving. We asked some equine nutritionists if there is anything balancers can do for box-resting horses.

According to Katie Grimwood, BSc (Hons), the senior nutritionist at Bailey’s, feed balancers are actually quite helpful.

“Correct nutrition may actually aid soft tissue healing by providing the nutritional components for repair,” she says. “Amino acids, for example, are the building blocks of protein and are essential for soft tissue construction. Essential amino acids (those not synthesised within the horse’s body), such as lysine and methionine, are particularly good for supporting repair.”

Katie advises that forage won’t provide enough nutrients.

“It does not contain the quality protein required to supply plenty of essential amino acids, although alfalfa is a good source of the amino acid, lysine.”

Lizzie Drury, the senior nutritionist at Saracen Horse Feeds, agrees that a balancer could be a useful addition to the recuperating horse’s diet, explaining: “When you have a horse that is on box rest or convalescing, a feed balancer is a convenient way to provide essential amino acids, antioxidants, prebiotics and probiotics that will help to support the immune system and maintain a healthy digestive system. Sick horses may also have limited appetites and feed balancers can help to stimulate intake and deliver a high plane of nutrition in a small amount of feed.”

The box-resting horse should still be given ad lib forage, as it gives him something to do and helps prevent digestive complications. Kate Hore, RNutr (Animal), registered nutritionist with NAF, says: “A horse out of work should be on a high fibre, low energy diet with little or no hard feed.” She adds: “However, those micronutrients are still essential — after all, they are required for repair and regrowth, so are an essential part of your horse’s return to fitness.”

Unlike feed made out of whole cereal grains, balancers don’t provide the horse with as much buzzy energy. Getting into the science of it, Kate explains: “Starch and sugar are the primary sources of quick release energy within the diet, with high intakes of these being commonly associated with excitable or fizzy behaviour. Starch is found in higher amounts in whole cereal grains such as oats, maize, wheat and barley. Digestion breaks the starch molecule down into separate glucose molecules which are absorbed straight into the blood stream in the small intestine.

Cereals are therefore known for supplying quick release energy, as they are easily digested and can be used much quicker than energy from fats and fibre. Due to the small feeding rates of balancers (typically 100g per 100kg of bodyweight), the starch and sugar contributions will be minimal, making them ideal for horses that can be fizzy while their workload and energy expenditure is reduced.”

Clare Barfoot, RNutr, the marketing, research, and revelopment director at Spillers, also emphasises the importance of forage, which “will keep [the horse] occupied, fulfil his desire to chew and reduce his risk of developing gastric ulcers.” She continues: “In such circumstances, nutrition support in the form of balancer every day will help support the forage-based diet, providing essential daily vitamins and minerals but without the extra calories which are not often needed when a horse is out of work.”

It is critical that owners choose the right balancer for the box resting horse. Some have more protein than others. Kate stresses that owners need to provide “quality protein, without providing excess quantity of protein.” While protein such as lysine is essential for repairing tissues, a balancer, or any feed, that adds too much protein can result in unwanted weight gain. If your horse is the type to gain weight easily, that is something to be avoided. She also says: “Another important factor for both the horse and their carer, is that excess protein will mean excess nitrogen is excreted as urea — resulting in very wet beds, lots of mucking out, and the potentially damaging irritant effects of ammonia — definitely one to be avoided!”

However, if your horse is prone to being stressy and loses weight easily, a balancer alone won’t be sufficient for keeping condition on it. Katie says: “For these types, using low starch conditioning feeds, which are instead high in fibre and oils, may be more beneficial.”

(Image credit: Lucy Merrell)

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(Image credit: Lucy Merrell)

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(Image credit: Lucy Merrell)

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(Image credit: Lucy Merrell)

Should I feed my competition horse a balancer?

Emily Donoho — Thu, 13 Jan 2022 13:02:32 +0000

The owners of hardworking competition horses might wonder what a balancer can do for their horses. Should they add one to the diet? The answer is, maybe. It depends on the horse, whether it’s a hard keeper or an easy keeper or sensitive to diet, and what else you’re feeding it. We speak to equine nutritionists, to find out more.

Lizzie Drury, senior nutritionist with Saracen, explains: “Feed balancers can be useful for competition horses, especially those that are training, travelling and competing on a frequent basis, as they can help to provide that extra layer of support to the immune system, digestive system and muscular system. If horses are already being fed the recommended levels of a competition feed, then a balancer can be top dressed on top of this feed at half of the recommended feeding rate e.g. 2.5kg of a competition feed and 250g of a balancer.

“They are also good for competition horses who have poor or fussy appetites when away from home to provide essential dietary elements to horses with limited appetites or reduced fibre intakes.”

Kate Hore, RNutr (Animal), registered nutritionist at NAF, further elaborates: “They allow you to feed the essential micronutrients in a very concentrated way, reducing or removing the need for starchy concentrate or ‘hard’ feed. Increasingly research recognises the negative effects of high cereal diets, whether that be on gastric ulcers, weight gain, laminitis, poor behaviour or other health issues. Feeding as nature intended — a high fibre, low cereal diet – allows your horse’s system to work naturally and efficiently, so your horse can work and compete in comfort, and concentrate on the job in hand.”

As with all feeds, owners have choices, and to get the most out of a balancer, they should work out which products suit their horse.

Clare Barfoot, RNutr, marketing, research, and development director at Spillers, says there are roughly two types of performance-orientated balancers: “A premium multi balancer should be rich in amino acids including lysine and methionine to support muscle development and topline. It will usually include antioxidants to support the immune system and probiotic live yeast and prebiotic MOS for digestive health.

“A performance balancer should be used to enhance a base performance diet while not oversupplying nutrients such as selenium and iron that will be already be present in the base diet. Ideally a performance balancer should include antioxidants and vitamins E and C to support muscle, immune and respiratory health and probiotic live yeast and prebiotic MOS and FOS to support digestive health.”

Which type you use depends on your feeding regime, and whether the horse is already getting enough selenium or iron, for example. And not all performance horses require a full ration of compound feed, which might reduce their intake of nutrients and amino acids. For those who do not, Clare says: “[Balancers] will ensure that their extra dietary needs are supported to best effect.”

However, she continues: “Feeding the full recommended amounts according to the bag may provide the horse with too many calories (resulting in excess weight gain), but taking the mix or cube out completely would not be enough! If you are feeding less than recommended amounts, then a balancer can be really useful, to ‘top up’ the nutrients your horse may be lacking, but without too many calories.”

Similarly, if your horse gets too hot or fizzy on mixes or cubes, you might reduce those feeds. It might make him more rideable, but at the same, risks underperformance due to deficiencies in nutrients. The reason, Katie explains, is that: “Vitamins and minerals are important for all horses to support metabolism and the ability of the body to utilise the energy provided in the diet.”

Balancers can be useful for this sort of horse, because they “top up on those nutrients whilst supporting all round condition and well-being,” and they usually don’t make the horse hot.

It goes without saying that training is also important for achieving the correct musculature, but the horse’s body needs support from its diet. Kaite says: “It cannot achieve this without the right levels of the right building blocks in the diet. Performance feeds are formulated to meet the increased demands of working horses, whose requirements include the constant repair and rebuilding of body tissues needed as they get fitter and stronger.”

Before you rush out and buy the nearest balancer, you should look your overall feeding program and decide whether or not your horse actually requires it. Balancers cost approximately £16 for a basic daily balancer to just under £40 for a senior balancer or a high-performance balancer. Due to the small amounts required, it’s more cost-effective than mixes and cubes, but still, you don’t want to spend money on something which might be redundant.

As Katie points out: “A large proportion of horses in hard work will often need and benefit from the full recommended amounts of a competition or a conditioning mix or cube. In these instances, a balancer will not usually be required, as they should be getting all the nutrients they need from the fortified mix or cube, alongside their forage.”

Kate cautions: “A balancer will not provide as much energy as the hard feed you’re hoping to replace.” But she adds: “For horses that need more energy, this can easily be remedied by introducing additional oil to the diet. Horses metabolise oil extremely efficiently and weight, for weight, oil provides over twice as much energy as oats, making it a great choice for the working horse.

“Remember, if you do want to put your horse on a high oil diet, it needs to be increased gradually over several weeks, to allow the body’s metabolism to adjust, and the high oil diet should be balanced with additional vitamin E.”

What is a feed balancer? H&H explains…

Emily Donoho — Wed, 12 Jan 2022 13:02:07 +0000

Feed balancers are something most horse owners have come across, but do you know what purpose balancers serve? Many owners have given what they consider to be the best feed balancers to their horses, trying to resolve a dietary issue – or because it just seemed like a good idea – but without really understanding what they are and what they do. In order to find out, we approached several equine nutritionists and asked them to explain the mystifying balancer.

Clare Barfoot (RNutr), the senior marketing, research and development director at Spillers, says: “A well-designed balancer provides ideal levels of vital vitamins, mineral and amino acids to balance the base diet with minimal calories and starch. Typically, balancers come in pellet form and are fed at lower levels than traditional compound feeds; 500g (a couple of mugfuls) per day for a 500kg horse. The low calorie content makes balancers an especially good choice for horses and ponies that maintain their weight on a forage-only diet or for those that require less than the recommended amount of compound feed.

“Every horse needs a balanced diet. While grass alone may provide up to three times the horse’s daily energy (calorie) requirements, certain nutrients such as lysine, copper, zinc and selenium are typically low in UK pasture. Vitamin E is the most important antioxidant and although grass alone may meet maintenance requirements, levels in in hay and haylage may be negligible.”

Lizzie Drury, the senior nutritionist at Saracen, explains: “Thousands of horses and ponies survive on just grazing alone; their coats may not shine, and their feet may not be in the best condition, but they are generally happy and healthy. How many of us feed mainly forage with just a handful of a coarse mix or cube ‘just for the vitamins and minerals?’ How many of us feed every supplement under the sun except one with vitamins and minerals? Feed balancers, as the name suggests are designed to balance a horse or pony’s ration nutritionally in terms of vitamins and minerals, protein and energy as a result of increased emphasis on forage utilisation in the diet.”

Katie Grimwood, BSc (Hons), nutrition advisor for Bailey’s, elaborates: “Balancers are a really useful way of giving your horse all the nutrients he needs without supplying any additional calories, so are perfect for good-doers or those who maintain condition well on forage alone. A balancer will provide all the essential nutrients you’d find in a mix or cube, without the associated energy or calorie element. Because they are so nutrient-dense, they can be fed in much smaller quantities. They can be fed as the sole concentrate, or mixed with a little chaff or beet for good doers, or they can be used to “top dress” a fortified mix or cube if less than recommended quantities are being fed.”

She further explains: “Balancers contain a wide range of vitamins and minerals in carefully calculated ratios to provide a balance of these nutrients to meet a horse’s daily needs. The basics should all be there, whichever balancer you choose; nutrients to support healthy hoof growth, metabolism, tissue repair – all the body processes which are involved in keeping a horse healthy.

“They also contain quality protein, supplying amino acids, the building blocks of all body tissues, including horn, hair, muscle and bone, so pretty important and often deficient in modern forages. Most balancers also contain one or more “digestive enhancers”, like a yeast culture or prebiotic, which help support gut efficiency.”

A horse is designed to eat grass, and it might seem surprising that it would not be getting sufficient vitamins and minerals from that grass. So why does a horse at pasture need a balancer? Wild or feral horses travel great distances, grazing on a wide variety of vegetation and in a range of locations, but domestic horses more or less stay in one place, and they get fed hay and whatever concentrated feed their owners provide.

Kate Hore, RNutr (Animal), the registered nutritionist with NAF, elucidates: “Termed ‘micronutrients’ many of them may be deficient in the general diet, either due to soil and grazing deficiencies which are passed to pasture and forage, or micronutrient losses particularly in preserved forage and feed.”

Of course, many horses appear perfectly healthy on a diet of grass and hay, but Barfoot suggests that a balancer can still benefit them. “Initially horses may look fine when not being provided with a balanced diet, but the long-term effects may include poor hoof growth and condition, a compromised immune system and a lack of general wellbeing,” she says. “A balancer, with just 20% of the calories of the recommended daily amount of horse and pony cubes, can be used safely for horses and ponies on restricted diets including those prone to laminitis.”

Making a similar point, Grimwood says: “You are unlikely to see weight gain when adding a balancer, because they do not contain significant calorie levels, but an overall improvement in muscle tone may be seen if the previous diet was deficient. Furthermore, the yeast and prebiotics that balancers contain, and which help improve gut efficiency, should mean that your horse is able to extract more from the forage and other elements of his diet.”

Other benefits, according to Grimwood, include “an increased enthusiasm for work. Horses who are not getting enough vitamins and minerals often feel lacklustre and lazy but, once getting the nutrients they need, their metabolism improves, and they feel a whole lot better. Improving gut health, through the inclusion of digestive enhancers (yeast, MOS, ScFOS), can also make a horse feel more comfortable in himself and therefore less crabby or jumpy.”

Balancers work their best when the horse receives the right balancer for its workload, age, and metabolism. Hore advises: “Well-designed balancers truly ‘balance’ the diet, i.e. feeding more of those nutrients that are likely to be low, such as selenium and zinc, and less of those well provided naturally. Therefore, we don’t advise balancers and supplements that promise to provide ‘100% RDA’ for all micronutrients – after all, they are not truly balancing, as they are not considering what is provided by the rest of the diet.”

Most feed companies have helplines, so if you feel that a feed balancer might be suitable for your horse, you can contact one and speak to a nutritionist.

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