When considering how much it costs to keep a horse, it’s important to realise that the ongoing care costs will go way beyond the initial outlay associated with buying a horse. These costs are continuous and should be realistically assessed before you decide to take on the responsibility for a horse of your own.

In my experience, once you’ve calculated what you believe to be a realistic budget, you should add on a buffer – prices always go up and there will undoubtedly be things you haven’t accounted for in your initial budget. I am now spending more than double what I originally budgeted for my horse’s monthly costs before I bought him 10 years ago – and I do everything I can to save money on horse costs. He doesn’t want for anything, but there are certainly no nice-to-have extras.

I’ll share the regular costs of keeping a horse, so that you can step into the wonderful world of horse ownership as prepared as possible for what you’re about to take on. Where the costs vary significantly, I’ll offer some considerations I wish I’d better understood before I bought my first horse. All prices quoted are approximate and based on prices at the time of publishing (March 2026) – spoiler alert: it’s a small fortune, but worth every penny.

I’ll cover the costs of:

• Livery
• Feed and forage
• Bedding
• Insurance
• Farriery
• Regular healthcare

Costs of livery

The costs of livery can vary wildly because there is a full spectrum of options from DIY grass livery (your horse lives in a field without a stable, and you look after it yourself) all the way up to full competition livery with all-singing-and-dancing facilities that includes training, competing, tack cleaning (you name it, they do it).

However, there are also variations depending on your location, similar to buying or renting a house. I moved from Berkshire to Nottinghamshire and got more facilities for my money, but there are parts of the country that are both far more expensive and cheaper than these.

Unfortunately, there are also major differences in livery pricing between lowest and highest prices for the same offering and similar facilities, which can make budgeting more difficult.

It’s hard to put a figure on it as costs vary so wildly, but according to the latest BETA survey (2023), owners spent an average of £257 per month on livery or £129 per month on grazing. Bear in mind, it’s possible to spend an awful lot more and costs will have risen since the survey due to the ever-increasing cost of living and raises to the minimum wage.

When choosing a livery yard, look at as many different yards in your local area as possible and work out what your priorities are – this will help you compare your options and weigh up what’s best. If you choose a DIY yard, don’t forget, if you’re on holiday or need assistance, you’ll need to pay someone to look after your horse, too, unless you can share the work with friends.

Unless you’re in the lucky position of being able to keep your horse at home, livery charges will be one of the largest regular monthly costs of owning a horse. And even if you can keep it at home, don’t be fooled into thinking it’s free.

Cost of feeding a horse

Similar to livery, the costs of feeding a horse are certainly not “one size fits all”. You might have a good-doer, which generally means your costs will be lower, but once you start adding things, such as a joint supplement, which they might need as they age, for example, the costs start to add up.

If you have a horse who struggles to hold weight or needs a specialist diet for any reason, then be prepared for much higher monthly costs. Similarly, feeding competition horses is usually more expensive.

Remember, it’s not just what’s in the bucket that will cost you. Hay, haylage and other types of forage are the foundation of your horse’s diet and likely to account for much of the monthly expense. You can save money on hay by buying in bulk, for example, but I would suggest that you should be prepared to spend at least £50–60 per month on hay for an average sized horse, although again, this varies with location and quality.

The quality of your grazing and the amount of turnout your horse gets, will affect how much forage you need to feed. Despite my horse having 24/7 turnout year round, I still feed hay throughout the year as there is not enough grass – this suits me as he’s a good-doer and it means I can easily monitor his weight, but it would be very expensive to manage a horse that struggles to maintain weight in this way.

There are ways to save money on horse feed and budget wisely, but feed and forage are essential costs that you can’t really cut corners with to ensure your horse gets the nutrition he needs.

Cost of bedding

Stabled horses will need bedding and you may also want rubber stable mats as they make it possible to use less bedding, as well as providing a comfortable and non-slip surface. Straw is the cheapest type of horse bedding, but it’s not typically not suitable for horses with respiratory problems and some horses will eat it.

In the long term, rubber mats combined with a more expensive bedding, such as shavings or wood pellets, can prove more economical, but the initial investment is considerably more.

Some horses are particularly wet and dirty, which will inevitably mean you use more bedding. If you’re in a position to deep litter, then this could reduce your costs, although this needs to be carefully managed to avoid negative impacts on your horse’s health.

Be prepared to use a minimum of one bale of shavings a week, which would cost around £10 per bale (although this varies with quality and your location). Good quality rubber mats will cost around £40 each, and you’d typically need six for a 12x12ft stable.

Cost of insurance

Following legal cases that have ruled that owners can be held responsible for any damage caused by their horses, all horse owners should be insured for third-party/public liability. One way to do this is to become a BHS Gold Member at £105 a year, which provides up to £30million of cover.

Horse insurance to cover death, straying, theft, vets fees and more is not mandatory, but many horse owners opt for it for peace of mind as costs can quickly escalate. You may also wish to take out rider insurance or tack insurance, which will add to the premium. Insuring high-value horses is more expensive, as is insuring horses that compete, while you can get specialist policies to insure veteran horses, which should prevent you paying for aspects you don’t need.

The cost of insurance varies a lot depending on what exactly you want to cover, but there are ways to save money on horse insurance. I would suggest budgeting at least £100 per month for a ridden horse, but get quotes before you buy your horse – the same as you would if you were buying a car – and be prepared that they may well be higher.

Costs of farriery

This is likely to be your largest cost after livery, feed and bedding is accounted for, especially if your horse is shod all round. Trimming a barefoot horse may cost around £30–40, while front shoes may cost £60–70 and a full set £90–100. If your horse needs remedial shoeing then it is likely to be a lot more.

Due to variation across the country, I would suggest using these numbers as a guide to compare the costs of different shoeing options. I know even within my local area, it’s possible to be paying up to £150 for a full set – and on average a horse is likely to need new shoes, or a trim, every four to six weeks.

Costs of regular healthcare

While you’ll inevitably encounter some vet fees over your horse’s lifetime, these are not regular occurrences. Instead, I’ll run through the costs you can expect to pay as part of the maintenance care for your horse.

Vaccinations

It’s recommended that your horse receives an annual equine flu vaccination, plus tetanus every other year, and the flu vaccination is mandatory if you’re competing. You can find more information about what’s required in our guide to equine vaccinations, but I would suggest putting aside £100 a year to cover the vaccinations and call-out fee.

Dentistry

Horses need a visit from an equine dental technician or vet who practices dentistry every six to 12 months, depending on their age and oral health. If your horse can be done without sedation and needs no additional treatment, you might be looking at around £50–60 a visit, but this will increase with sedation and any further treatment.

Physio

Regular maintenance sessions with a physical therapist can keep your horse moving freely and feeling their best. Costs will likely depend on the therapist’s qualifications as there are a wide range of therapies available, but you should be prepared to spend at least £50 a session. Your horse might only need seeing once every three months, but if your practitioner needs to work a specific issue this could be more frequent.

Saddle fitting

It’s recommended that your horse’s saddle is checked for fit at least every six months as their shape can change throughout the year. Depending on how the saddle fitter structures their costs and whether they include visit fees, this could cost anything from £40–100 depending on where you live, whether you’re part of a group visit, and whether you’re booked on an initial assessment or follow-up visit. Adjustments to your saddle are likely to be additional.

Worming

The most cost-effective worming programme is a “targeted” plan, which uses worm egg counts (around £10 per horse) and worming only if the results suggest it’s necessary. It’s recommended to perform a worm egg count test every 12 weeks, and a saliva test for tapeworm every six months.

Annual worming packs that include everything you need delivered to your door cost £6–10 per month, depending on your package.

How much does it cost to keep a horse: total costs

The costs I’ve covered so far are simply the basics – further significant costs to be considered are tack, rugs (plus washing and repairs) and grooming products, before you even start on transport or training.

Below is an example of what the basics costs to keep a horse on DIY livery might be. Of course, for you some things may be less and others more, so do some research in your local area and add up the numbers.

Costs such as dentistry aren’t paid monthly, but I prefer to put the money aside each month so that when vaccinations and a dentist visit land in the same month as my farriery appointment, it’s not a problem because the cost is already accounted for. I also find this a clearer way to understand whether I can afford to take on a new ongoing expense.

• For unlimited access to advice on how best to care for your horse, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

You might also enjoy reading:

13 ways to save money on horse costs without compromising on care

New horse? Or moving yards? Be prepared with Horse & Hound’s ultimate checklist

Deep litter bedding for horses: pros and cons

How much does it cost to breed a horse? H&H crunches the numbers

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

If you or your child are looking for the added challenge of a course of fences to negotiate in the show ring, then the workers is the place for you. Our guide to buying a working hunter pony is a good place to start if you’re looking for a new pony to meet the challenge.

What makes a good working hunter pony?

Working hunter pony classes are one of the most popular sections within showing. Show schedules today offer a whole host of working hunter classes where both children and adults can enjoy competing their ponies over a course of rustic fences as well as showing off their way of going and conformation.

Each class is split into three phases, and marks are awarded for jumping, style, manners and way of going, conformation, type and freedom of action. The combination with the highest final score wins the class.

There are different levels of working hunter pony classes, ranging from unaffiliated through to novice, restricted, open and finally, national finals found at the major showing championships, Horse of the Year Show (HOYS), the Royal International (RIHS), and the London International Horse Show (LIHS).

Both the plaited and mountain and moorland (M&M) working hunter pony classes are split into height sections, some of the classes are also restricted according to rider age and competition level.

What to consider when buying working hunter pony

Before you begin looking at the ponies themselves, there are some considerations that you will need to make…

Plaited vs native working hunter ponies

If you are searching for a working hunter pony for your child, then one fundamental decision you need to make is whether to pursue a plaited or a mountain and moorland pony. There are pros and cons to both.

Plaited working hunter pony classes are age restricted, so your child will generally be competing against their peers. Also, if you purchase a part-bred pony, a sports pony or a British Riding Pony, for example, they will only be able to compete in the plaited ranks.

Just like their plaited counterparts, M&M working hunter ponies jump in height but there are no age restrictions on M&M worker classes, aside from in tiny tots or junior classes. This means that unless your child is just starting out in the workers and is aiming for those classes, they will not have to move out of any one height due to their age.

The advantage of this is that your child can potentially stay on their pony much longer. So, for example, if you were to purchase a 133cm pony for your child of 11, provided they don’t outgrow it, they could stay on that pony until it retires.

This is particularly advantageous to children who are smaller than average as they can enjoy extra years on a native, whereas peers on a plaited will have to move up through the sizes regardless of whether they are still small enough for their existing pony.

This does mean, however, that your child will have to compete with riders of all ages in the M&M working hunter pony ranks.

But if you purchase wisely, you could find yourself able to compete in both sections with a registered native pony that is capable of jumping the slightly bigger fence heights in the plaited sections.

Just remember that to compete in affiliated M&M working hunter pony classes, the pony must be fully registered with their respective native breed society and trimming isn’t allowed by all native breed societies. So even though, for example, the Fell pony you are considering is more than capable of jumping the heights, your chances of wrangling its mane into plaits and slicking down its feathers to look trimmed are very slim indeed!

The Welsh sections A, section B and section C, New Forests and Connemaras each have examples of their breeds currently successfully holding their own in both the plaited and M&M working hunter pony sections.

Age restrictions

Another of the most basic considerations you need to make is the age of your child. There are age restrictions on each of the plaited height classes as well as on native tiny tots and junior sections. There are also differences in the age restrictions for plaited finals at the RIHS and HOYS.

Make sure you read through the rules of the classes you are aiming to enter to ensure that they are going to be able to compete.

A word of caution: for parents new to showing and even to ponies, it may seem like a good idea to buy a pony from one of the bigger height sections even if your child is still relatively young in these classes and new to the competition. However, this means that they will be competing against children much older than them – or even young adults – and will be faced with much bigger fences. You’ll need to make an informed decision on whether or not your child can handle the stiffer end of the competition.

If you’re looking for a working hunter pony for yourself and are reading this guide, make sure that you check which classes you are eligible for. If you are over 18 years of age, then you are confined to either a 153cm or an intermediate in the plaited ranks, but M&M working hunter pony classes are generally open to adults, too, so you don’t need to worry about age restrictions for these classes.

Rider height and weight

As well as considering their age, it’s also sensible to consider your child’s height. The reality is, taller children might need to move up through the pony heights faster than their peers. Consider this before purchasing a pony for your child as you may find the pony outgrown before they’ve really hit their stride together.

As with their age, it may seem a good idea to launch your little 12-year-old into 153cm classes on the basis they can remain on the same pony for years, but if they are over-horsed, you could be creating a whole new problem to solve.

For taller children, they may find they have an extra year or two in a height bracket aboard a native pony, as they can be chunkier to take up long and growing legs.

Your own height and weight should be a consideration for you, too, when looking at ponies. The idea of smaller fences and a smaller pony to manage may be appealing, but you will feel more comfortable and the all-important picture will be much more attractive to judges if you are sensibly mounted.

I’m all for adults riding ponies if they wish to, but they should be on a pony of an appropriate size and build. It’s unfair to expect a pony to work properly over a course of fences if you are of an inappropriate weight ratio for the pony. Welfare guidance suggests that the rider should be no more than 20% of the pony’s weight.

Rider capability, personality and goals

Consider carefully your child’s capabilities and your aims for them with their prospective ride. If your child only has one season left in the class and is desperate to enter HOYS qualifiers, then buying a novice pony with very little mileage is not sensible. Neither is a novice a suitable purchase if your child is realistically not capable at this point in their own education of bringing on a green pony.

As well as your child’s capabilities, consider their personality and confidence levels, and try to purchase sensibly with these things in mind. If your child is nervous for example, they may be better suited to a pony who will quietly and steadily go about tackling the course, and it may be better to purchase a pony with some prior mileage who can help your child build confidence.

On the other hand, if your child is confident and ambitious, they may prefer a bolder jump and more forward ride. They may also be more mentally able to cope with the unknowns and the hurdles associated with bringing on a novice pony. Of course, this isn’t an exact science, and only you can really know what your child needs and what they can deal with.

If you’re buying a pony for yourself, you still need to consider your aims and realistically, what you are capable of. Can you honestly see yourself having the time and energy to bring on a green pony? Do you really want to jump the meatier HOYS or RIHS qualifiers and finals? If so, you’ll need to find a pony with a sufficient jump to cope with these fences, but if you think that competing at a lower level is more for you, then you may find more ponies to view that fit the bill and fit your budget.

Your personality is also important. What type of ride will you enjoy? A pony with more “go” than “whoa” or visa versa as they approach a fence? As an experienced adult, you may be able to school your pony to give you the kind of ride you enjoy. But be honest with yourself about your goals, capabilities and personality and you’re more likely to find a suitable partner.

Type and conformation

Samantha Darlington and her daughter Georgia Darlington have produced multiple top working hunter ponies. Georgia won the HOYS intermediate working hunter pony final in 2022 riding her own Jara before the pair stepped up successfully into horse ranks, finishing champion working hunter at HOYS in 2025. She was also champion M&M working hunter pony at HOYS in 2015 riding Welsh pony Tynwydd Good Friday. Georgia has also won the RIHS on each of the ponies. During her career Sam won HOYS and the RIHS over fences and was part of the England working hunter pony team.

“We always try to remember that a working hunter class is a showing class, so we’re looking for a type of animal that is good enough to show,” says Sam. “When we look at a pony and we ask ourselves if it would be good enough to show on the flat. For example, it must have correct conformation, move well and be straight.

“If I’m looking at a plaited pony then I would look at it as a show hunter pony. While it’s definitely harder to find these quality types today, once upon a time most riders would do both working hunter and show hunter classes with their ponies.”

“If I were looking for a native, it would similarly need to be a conformationally correct animal that is of a good type and stamp for its breed. If a pony hasn’t jumped it can be hard to tell if it is going to make a worker. You could take a look at the breeding to gauge if it will jump, though it’s not a guarantee.”

Blemishes and injuries

A true blemish, caused by a knock or an accident, is passable if everything else is good, Sam explains.

“I could overlook a splint or something similar if it didn’t impact soundness. A working hunter should have been jumped and hunted, so it’s unrealistic to expect their legs to be absolutely perfect.”

When it comes to prior injury, though, proceed with caution. Make sure that whatever has happened in their past is not likely to affect their future soundness and their ability to stand up to the kind of rigorous training and fitness needed for a successful season in the workers ring. If the pony is perfect in all other ways, discuss throughly with your vet what you can do to manage the condition and make an informed decision from there.

Where to find your next working hunter pony

Ponies are often sold via word of mouth, as Sam explains.

“It’s the best method in my opinion. Asking people who are out and about on the circuit and who have seen the pony around is the best way to gauge if it will do your job.”

Working hunter ponies for sale will be advertised at various times in the season on online platforms as well as on social media. Often, top ponies with consistent CVs will be available after HOYS, especially if the rider will be out of class for the next season.

“Social media and online sources make it easier to find out a pony’s history, and if we have pursued a pony billed as a schoolmaster we make sure to do extensive homework before a viewing; we make sure that it has done what is being claimed.

“I would definitely not recommend buying a pony without going to view it. Many ponies can sound ideal on paper but when you look at their jumping record they’re not quite what it seems, as in they might be consistently having poles down, or might have issues with certain obstacles, such as water trays.”

It’s also worth thinking outside the box. Look at adverts for Pony Club ponies or all-rounders. If the pony has good conformation and paces and is of a good type, it might make an excellent worker with the added benefit of having gained lots of mileage out and about enjoying other disciplines.

Viewing the pony

It’s always advisable to view a pony, even if you have asked around and gained some positive recommendations.

When assessing the ride of a working hunter pony, Georgia says: “I like a worker to ride forward and ‘pingy’. I like something to take me to a fence as I don’t like kicking. I would want a prospect worker to be bold and careful over a fence.”

It goes without saying that it’s a good idea to give the pony a jump when trying it. Think carefully about what you expect in a ride. If the pony you are viewing ticks all other boxes but gives a lesser ride, think about whether you can work with the pony to improve it.

If it rides well but isn’t your ideal partner in other ways, you’ll need to weigh up whether you can compromise on those things. For example, my sister’s former worker stopped twice when we tried him, even though he had previously jumped open tracks. The stops and his behaviour revealed that we were looking at a pony with some quirks, but ultimately we decided to buy him anyway – and though his personality would drive others stir crazy, we work with them where we can as we love him anyway.

If you’re unsure, genuine sellers will be happy for you to try a pony a second time. If you or your child have worked with a trainer for a while, they may be willing to accompany you to a viewing, especially if you are new to purchasing. And they may well be able to give valuable insight.

Ultimately, only you – and your child if it’s for them – will know if the pony you are viewing is the right one.

Some sellers will permit a trial period, though not all sellers wish to let their ponies go out on trial.

How much does a working hunter pony cost?

Budget is hugely personal and how much you can expect to pay is dependent on many different factors.

Every seller has a price in their mind, but a pony is only worth what someone is willing to pay. If you’re thinking of approaching the owners of a pony already proving itself on the circuit to ask to purchase the pony, expect to pay more.

An established pony in the current climate will be at least five figures.

If you don’t have the budget for your perfect pony, you need to decide whether you can wait to save up some more, or whether you can compromise and purchase, for example, a less established pony.

What happens when I’ve agreed on a sale?

When you have agreed on a sale, it is time to organise a pre-purchase vetting, something that is strongly recommended.

The vet will assess the pony with the specific job you want it for in mind, so it’s important to let the vet know prior to the vetting that they are intended as a working hunter pony.

If you tell the vet that you want the horse for the show ring, they should hopefully inform you of any blemishes or conformational faults that could impact its future career, even if they don’t impact its soundness or performance.

If the pony is for a child, then suitability and temperament should be taken into consideration by the vet.

Sam adds: “If you are spending a decent amount of money, I strongly recommend getting a vetting, ideally a five-stage vetting. An unbroken three-year-old could undergo a three-stage.”

Anything else?

Take your time. Just because you are keen to hit the ring or your child is suffering serious FOMO at the side of the ring, doesn’t mean that you should rush into any purchase. It’s best to be absolutely happy with your buy, even if that means exercising a little patience. The right pony is out there somewhere!

For more information, you can read H&H’s ultimate guide to buying a horse.

• To stay up to date with all the breaking news from major shows throughout the year, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

You may also be interested in:

H&H’s guide to working hunter pony classes: what to know before you give them a go

“Turnout should be smart and workmanlike...”

How can I buy the perfect working hunter?

Looking to buy a show hunter pony? Where to search and exactly what to look for

How can I buy my perfect Connemara pony?

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Clients of a dealer have raised concerns about a trial system that requires full payment in advance, some customers reporting significant delays in receiving their refunds when horses proved unsuitable.

Lynn Robertson, of Broadhill Stables, is being investigated by Cambridgeshire Constabulary after numerous reports to the force regarding her dealings. Her solicitor said she “denies any fraudulent conduct” but that she cannot comment owing to the ongoing police investigation.

The dealer, whose website was unavailable as H&H went to press, offered clients horses on a trial basis. They were told they had to pay her the full price of the horse in advance, but would be refunded within 14 days if the horse was unsuitable. H&H first spoke to people who had taken up this offer and did get all their money back – after considerable delays.

One of these clients is Vicky Rieunier, who paid £12,500 for cob Cookie on 6 February 2025, did not in the end get him on trial and was fully refunded by Ms Robertson, by 18 March 2025.

Ms Rieunier is a very experienced rider who has coached, evented and worked for top eventers but had lost some confidence so was looking for a “straightforward and sensible” horse. After several failed vettings, she saw a cob Ms Robertson was selling, and rang up about him.

“She said she had lots of people interested so I couldn’t see him,” Ms Rieunier told H&H.

“She sent me the contract and it looked fine; she said someone else wanted to see him, so I sent the money. Then the cycle started.”

Lynn Robertson: delays

Ms Rieunier said Ms Robertson offered to organise transport but this was delayed for a week “because he needed to be shod”. But before he came, Ms Robertson said she had received a vet’s report saying Cookie had suspensory issues.

“She offered me other horses but I didn’t want them and alarm bells were ringing so I asked for my money back,” Ms Rieunier said. “Lynn said she had two weeks, in the contract, to refund me, then she kept giving excuses: ‘I’ve hit my daily allowance,’ or, ‘It’ll come tomorrow.’”

H&H also spoke to another client, who paid £13,950 for a horse called Guinness; she saw his advert, rang Ms Robertson and was told she had to pay in full that day, 31 October, to secure him on trial.

She was also told she had to wait for the horse to be shod. The client said Lynn also asked her not to post about the horse on social media until she had decided to keep him – but then told her he had “failed” a vetting.

“On 17 November she sent me pictures of another horse and I said he looked a bit quiet, probably not the one for me. She said she had more but I said could I have my money back while she was looking and I was looking,” the client said. “From 20 November, I started the, ‘Any chance of my refund,’ and I’d get all the, ‘I’ll sort it, I haven’t had space on my transfer limit.’

“I sent her a message on 30 November saying my options were asking others about her on social media or seeking legal advice.”

Facebook post

Soon after this, a friend of the client asked in a Facebook group if anyone had had similar experiences with Ms Robertson.

The client was refunded in full by 4 December, after which she said the dealer asked her to get the friend’s post taken down.

“I look back on the conversations and she said she didn’t want to sell a horse who’s not right, and you think, ‘Thanks for being honest,’” the client said.

“But when she phoned me, she said I’d got my money back. I said that wasn’t the point; what I wanted was a horse. Guinness could have been my perfect horse, and I’ll never know if what she’d told me was true, because I don’t know if there was really anything wrong with him.

“What’s really sad is that I got excited about a horse who could have been perfect, and it had turned into a disaster.”

Both clients, and others, told H&H they had researched Ms Robertson thoroughly before they paid her money but could only find positive reviews.

Facebook group

But in a Facebook group called “Broadhill Stables/Lynn Robertson Buyers Beware”, clients have been putting their stories together.

Two riders have told H&H they each paid £12,500 for Cookie in May, one on 7 May and one on 15 May. Both were later told about a vet’s report regarding his lameness, both cancelled the trial, and both were fully refunded by 6 June.

The timing of these transactions has raised questions among clients about how Ms Robertson’s trial system operated.

Multiple clients’ experiences of dealing with Ms Robertson have been collated in a spreadsheet by members of the Facebook group, seen by H&H. Hannah Brooke, who did keep Harvey whom she bought from Ms Robertson last summer, told H&H: “I am glad I bought Harvey as he’s very sweet but when all this kicked off, I sent [Ms Robertson] a screenshot of the woman who messaged me saying, ‘I bought him after you did,’ and said, ‘Have you got anything you’d like to say to me about this, Lynn?’

“And she read it, but she didn’t reply.”

H&H has not independently verified the other buyer’s claim about Harvey.

Cambridgeshire Constabulary has confirmed to H&H it is investigating.

Lynn Robertson’s solicitor told H&H Ms Robertson denies any fraudulent conduct and cannot comment further while the police investigation is ongoing.

• To stay up to date with all the breaking equestrian news throughout 2026, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

You may also be interested in:

Buying or selling a horse: do you know where you stand? *H&H VIP*

The new Consumer Rights Act covers everything from washing machines to horses and also toughens up consumers' rights on services

New pre-vetting document introduced to make buying and selling horses smoother

Horse owners warned about creating unintended contracts on WhatsApp when buying and selling

How to protect yourself when buying or selling horses: legal experts share helpful advice

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

Richard Sheane of top Irish horse producers Cooley Farm explains why he feels vets examining X-rays without having seen the horse in the flesh is influencing the sales of future equine stars

Here at Cooley Farm, we’re having an ongoing problem, which is shared by many high-end horse sales yards. It’s common for a client to come in from abroad, buy a horse subject to vetting and for the horse to be presented at their chosen Irish veterinary clinic for the pre-purchase examination.

The horse is clinically examined and X-rayed and when everything is deemed normal, the X-rays and in some cases, scans, are sent to the customer’s home vet. In many cases, they find issues that are irrelevant to the horse’s future performance. It might be something minor and within normal limits, but their concerns mean the sale falls apart.

It feels like the home vet wants to show that they see more than the vet who saw the horse in person and that they are protecting their clients, but ultimately all they are doing is stopping their clients from purchasing a top horse.

The vet check can really only assess the horse on the day – primarily by a clinical examination. No one has a crystal ball to predict what the future holds and the horse could be injured in so many ways. If the vet is satisfied on the day, it’s ridiculous to base its future soundness on unfounded potential scenarios.

We estimate that 80% of the horses we’ve sold that have gone on to be placed at four- and five-star have been judged unsuitable in this way by a “third-party vet”.

Their careers reinforce a lesson we’ve learned through decades of experience. Elite performance is built on ability, temperament, durability and matching of horse to rider and the correct system – not on the misguided opinion of a vet who never viewed the horse in person.

When assessed correctly and in context, minor, non-prejudicial findings do not impact soundness, performance, longevity or ultimately results.

One Cooley graduate, who is now succeeding at four-star and is one of the hottest up-and-coming horses in the sport, fell foul of no less than seven different vets before he found his home – and he’s now beating lots of the riders who turned him down.

Customers then sometimes complain that they didn’t buy the horse “because there was x, y, z wrong with it” – but there wasn’t anything wrong with it, as its subsequent performance shows.

“A focus on horses that will perform”

We are a top-end yard, not the equine dealing equivalent of a used car salesman, and this is affecting horses with a value over £30,000.

We are giving decent money for the horses initially and we have them thoroughly vetted. We have no interest in horses that have clinical or radiographic problems.

Our focus is on horses with exceptional temperament and ability – horses that will perform at the highest level.

We have a record for selling horses that are well and sound – we’d have no business if we sold horses who weren’t up to the job.

If someone did ring up and had a problem with a horse, we’d take it back.

Vets perhaps don’t realise how difficult it is to find a horse with the potential for the top level and then to match the horse and the rider and system to create the perfect formula.

Assessing suitability for elite sport requires an understanding of temperament, ability, production systems and rider compatibility – areas that extend beyond the scope of a vet’s knowledge.

When these broader factors are not fully considered, unnecessary doubt can be introduced by the vet into the decision-making process, often resulting in riders and owners missing horses that would have been an excellent fit for their system and goals.

We do get our horses sold, of course, but it’s such a rigmarole and it feels like we are getting to the point where vets have too much control and they are choosing horses, not riders.

Ultimately purchasers are buying horses that the vets like, not what is best for them and their future.

● Are you a vet with a different view? Or a buyer with an opinion? Write to us at hhletters@futurenet.com, including your name, nearest town and county, for the chance for your thoughts to appear in a forthcoming issue of the magazine

• To stay up to date with all the breaking news from major events, as well as exclusive insights from top names, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

You might also be interested in:

All in a day’s work for Cooley Farm horse dealer Richard Sheane

Study finds ‘almost no evidence’ to support equine neck X-rays in pre-purchase vettings

New research reveals most common findings in pre-purchase horse vettings

Should owners still buy a horse if problems are found on X-rays during the vetting?

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

Sellers of horses will be asked to declare relevant information in writing, directly to prospective buyers – cutting out the vet “middleman” – as part of a new toolkit.

The British Equine Veterinary Association (BEVA) has introduced a pre-purchase examination (PPE) seller’s declaration as part of its new online toolkit for vets. Previously, the seller’s declaration was part of BEVA’s pre-purchase worksheet, containing questions for the vet to ask the seller.

This new declaration, which has been revised with the support of British Equestrian (BEF) and the British Horse Society (BHS), is a more extensive, stand-alone document. Prospective buyers are recommended to ask for a completed copy from the seller directly before the formal PPE starts.

“BEVA’s new seller’s declaration will iron out the PPE process to make it smoother and more efficient for all three parties involved: buyer, seller and vet,” said BEVA veterinary projects officer Lucy Grieve, who has been instrumental in putting the new guidance together.

“The advantage is it cuts out the vet as a middleman… asking if the horse has received any medication, or coughs on dry hay and so on. The declaration means that the seller should declare those things to the buyer straight off. If completed in advance, it should give the buyer more robust information on which to base proceeding with the PPE or not.”

She added that it is hoped this becomes an “industry standard”, so that all parties can proceed with vettings with as much confidence as possible.

The document asks the seller to disclose a horse’s veterinary history and interventions, behaviour, whether he is in work or not, specific management requirements, lameness history, plus details of preventative care such as worm control and dental care. There is also an area to declare whether the form was filled in by the seller or an agent.

BHS director of horse care and welfare Gemma Stanford said: “We always urge a buyer to make careful considerations when going through the process of purchasing a horse. It’s a decision that should never be rushed and one that needs to be made with every detail to hand.

“BEVA’s new seller’s declaration will be a great, supportive resource to help with this process. Sellers can easily input all the information required in one go, while buyers have peace of mind that they’re making an informed decision. Critically, it’ll ensure that the welfare of the horse is always the key priority.”

Lawyer Jodie Seddon, partner at Aria Grace Law CIC, welcomed the move, also recommending that parties still have sales contracts.

“We support the BEVA, BHS and BEF in their aim to bring more transparency to equine transactions, however we would caution that the proposed questionnaire does not alone form a sales contract that both parties can rely on,” she told H&H.

“This is a positive step in ensuring more consistent information sharing, to the benefit of the welfare of horses changing hands. However, to ensure that the information disclosed has contractual force, we would always recommend using a sales contract.”

• For more information, visit: beva.org.uk/Resources/Clinical-resources/PPE-toolkit or view a digital version of the form

To stay up to date with all the breaking news from major shows throughout 2025, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

You may also be interested in:

‘We’re delighted to bring loyal readers this benefit’: H&H magazine subscribers get free website access

Horse owners warned about creating unintended contracts on WhatsApp when buying and selling

How to protect yourself when buying or selling horses: legal experts share helpful advice

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

Equestrian buyers and sellers have been warned to be aware of entering into “unintended” contracts via online messages following a recent High Court ruling.

In the case of Jaevee Homes Ltd v Fincham, the parties discussed a construction project via WhatsApp, but never signed a written contract. After a payment dispute arose later, a judge ruled that a binding contract had been formed based on these communications because essential elements of a contract were included such as an offer, acceptance and terms.

Equine lawyer Hannah Bradley, partner at Aria Grace Law CIC, told H&H that although this was not an equine case, it sets a precedent and provides “important guidance for those who negotiate sales via messaging platforms”.

“This applies for social media messaging like Facebook, WhatsApp or text; where despite the informality, you can form a legally binding contract,” she said, adding that it is common in the horse world for buyers and sellers to use these platforms to exchange photos, negotiate prices or arrange viewings and vettings.

“Aside from the risk of creating a binding contract when you don’t intend to, the further problem is, you are not necessarily confined to what you think you have agreed. There are many terms that might be implied by statutory or common law and they can all become part of the contract, which is a bit of an uncontrolled beast. You can also fail to include terms which you might have wanted to. Whereas if you have a formal written contract you can generally consider and regulate what the terms are in a bit more detail.”

Ms Bradley said a lot of legal cases arise in the equestrian world based on contracts formed via electronic communication.

“It’s obviously a time when people are excited about a new horse and want to do things quickly, and often they’re not thinking about the potential adverse consequences,” she said.

“It’s about being aware and exercising caution when you’re entering into these communications, whether you’re the buyer or seller.”

To reduce the risk of creating “unintended contracts”, Ms Bradley advises to use language to clarify that discussions are preliminary and non-binding, such as “subject to signed contract” and “pending formal agreement”. She also recommends considering independent legal advice for complex or high-value sales.

“While messaging apps provide speed and convenience, they also demand care. Every message could be relied on at a later date whether it be to prove a contract, or in respect of a dispute post sale,” she said.

“Once preliminary negotiations are complete, send a formal written contract via email or signed on paper in person. That contract should set out all the key terms, and contain warranties that are important to either party. By using cautious language and moving to formal agreements when appropriate, you can protect yourself from accidental commitments.”

British Horse Society director of horse care and welfare Gemma Stanford told H&H it is “incredibly important” to draw up a formula agreement when buying a horse.

“While fast communication tools such as text conversations are convenient, they’re no substitute for well drafted contracts. It’s the only way for everyone to be completely explicit on what has been agreed,” she said.

“We advise you to clearly state the terms and conditions the horse was purchased under, including arrangements regarding a deposit and the circumstances in which this deposit should be returned. Make sure both parties sign the document, to avoid any disputes. We know that it can be a daunting process, but there are many tools to support people with drafting a contract.”

Ms Stanford added that the BHS offers a sales agreement service to its members to assist with pulling together a “fool-proof” sales contract.

• To stay up to date with all the breaking news from major shows throughout 2025, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

You may also be interested in:

Horse sellers beware? How consumer law could mean dealers get the raw end of the deal

Court case over £21,000 deposit highlights need for contracts in horse sales

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

Whether you’re looking to buy an Arabian horse, or had never even considered the breed before, this advice might help you decide if they are the horse for you.

Would an Arab horse be suitable for me?

The Arab horse is one of the world’s most distinctive breeds of horse. It’s arguably one of the oldest breeds still in existence and it is recognised by key traits such as a dished head, high tail carriage and extravagant movement. While pure-bred Arab breeding is still thriving among dedicated enthusiasts in the UK and overseas, the bloodlines have contributed to nearly every modern light horse breed. The part-bred Arab is a hugely popular cross, too, and horses and ponies with Arab blood can be found in many competitive disciplines.

Arab horses typically stand between 14.1hh – 15.1hh but are compact and strong in stature. They are known for being quite highly-strung animals that enjoy work, but the temperament largely depends on the individual animal. While they can be a good choice for a competitive rider with performance ambitions, those horses with a quiet disposition can make ideal mounts for leisure riders.

What can I do with an Arab horse?

Arabs have their own classes within the show ring, with finals for pure-breds being held at Horse of the Year Show (HOYS) and Royal International. The Arab Horse Society of Great Britain also holds shows for in-hand and ridden Arabs, and many breeders and enthusiasts use these shows as a lead up to the global stage, with many opting to travel to Europe and the Middle East with their horses to compete for international titles.

Arabs are popular endurance horses due to their stamina and ability. Due to the harsh environment they were bred to survive in, the Arab horse has strong endurance capabilities making them ideally suited to this challenging discipline.

Arabs are definitely not one-trick horses and they are capable of performing multiple jobs, including jumping and dressage.

The part-bred Arab is an equally popular choice that is capable of being enjoyed in many different spheres, with the Arab adding refined qualities, endurance and athleticism to the other parent. The showing of part-bred Arabs is also a popular sector, and classes specifically for this cross-bred are found at all major shows.

What should I look for in a ridden Arab horse?

Sian Warman has ridden and produced pure-bred Arab horses at top level for many years. She is a regular face in the pure-bred ridden Arab final at HOYS, and she has also won the supreme of show at the Arab National Show and supreme ridden title at the British Arab championships during her career.

She describes what she’d be looking for in a prospect for the show ring and beyond: “First and foremost, I’m looking for a good base. Everyone has their own opinion on type, but I am not a lover of the taller, more sporty types and I prefer the more compact types that have a leg at each corner. I need to be able to look at the horse and see where the saddle will sit.

“I’m looking for all the features of a good Arab which include a set of strong, big side eyes and expressive nostrils that lead into the dished head. I’d be assessing the head carriage and neck line as well as the tail set, which should be high. We want nice, sound bone, well proportioned feet, long, sloping pasterns and sturdiness of the croup.

“Movement-wise, they must be straight. I do like a big mover, but their step must come through the shoulder. It’s this action that gives them that long, elegant stride. Personally, I like to think of my ridden Arab as a mini hack. I am looking for elegance combined with beautiful movement, a rhythmical canter and evidence that they can carry the rider.

“Upbringing is important, too. I like all of my horses to do other things, such as hacking and pole work, so it’s important that they have been raised well and have seen a bit of the world.”

Where should I buy an Arab horse from?

If you want to buy an Arab horse, they will be advertised at various times in the season on online platforms by private sellers, studs and professional agents who specialise in the breed, as well as via word of mouth.

“I would suggest going to a breeder with a good record,” says Sian. “Do your research into a breeder’s history to see what they’ve bred over the years, and possibly get into a discussion with them to see what they have available.

“I would also look at certain lines and see which sire’s stock you favour. For example, the stallion Emerald J has produced many top ridden horses currently out and about on the circuit. There are also consultants in the Arab world who do a lot of selling.”

How much should I expect to pay?

“The prices of horses can vary massively, as in any type,” Sian says. “Horses with show ring CVs will be priced in double figures. A horse that has been shown to a good level, or a promising novice, can easily fetch between £6,000 and £10,000. The bloodlines can also determine prices and breeding stock with successful in-hand records can go for really good money.

“A proven in-hand horse, though, that has been successful in the Middle East or aboard might not make the ideal ridden horse for the UK circuit.”

I’ve agreed to buy an Arab horse, what now?

It’s strongly recommended to arrange a pre-purchase vetting when you have found the right horse.

The vet will assess the horse with the specific job you want it for in mind. It’s important to let the vet know prior to the vetting what you hope to do with the horse. The vet should pay close attention to any conformational faults which could impact its future in any sphere, even if they don’t affect soundness or performance.

“It is always recommended that you get a horse put through a vetting, especially if you are spending a certain amount of money,” says Sian. “I would always get the basic assessments done, and then you can take what you want from that.”

• To stay up to date with all the breaking news from major shows throughout 2025, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

You may also be interested in:

Prolific pair crowned champions at Royal Windsor as Arabs and their part-breds grace the ring

‘My life revolves around this horse’: HOYS glory for home-bred and home-produced Arab

‘This one has always eluded us’: Arab achieves rare hat trick as he wins Royal International

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

Scientists may argue over what is the world’s most precious substance: is it platinum, iridium, oil, antimatter? Parents with children under the age of 16 know — forget the rest, it’s the perfect Pony Club pony.

Rarer than rubies, more valuable per ounce than gold, as sought after as truffles, the Pony Club gem is top of every mother’s wish list.

So what qualifies as the Perfect Pony Club Pony (PPCP)?

They can be divided into two main types — the small, fluffy, safe-as-houses saint who can act as nanny, and the bigger, legendary competition pony who has been on every team for donkey’s years and knows the entire dressage test range off by heart and exactly how many strides they need to fit in through that downhill coffin.

What they have in common is safety. You can trust them not to kick, bite or dump your child unnecessarily. Of course children will always fall off, even if the pony doesn’t put a foot wrong, but a good pony should make reasonable efforts to keep them in the plate.

A child should be able to carry a flapping flag during mounted games, or a polocrosse stick, and go “round-the-world” without objections from below.

Every Pony Club instructor breathes a sigh of relief to see them in their ride at camp — they can be used to demonstrate dressage moves, take part in a rousing game of cowboys and Indians, and won’t bog off back to the lorry if the child does fall off.

7 tips for finding the perfect Pony Club pony

1. Do consider older ponies — in fact, the older the better. Many small ponies improve considerably with age.

2. Don’t buy a young, green pony for a nervous child — 99 times out of 100, it won’t work.

3. Do get it vetted if you are buying it — what you find out may not stop you buying it, but it’s important to know if it has had laminitis or other problems in the past.

4. Keep a close eye out at rallies and competitions for lovely ponies — then suck up to their present owners like mad and make sure you seem like the perfect “next home”.

5. Don’t get too ambitious. If your child is nervous, the pony who will only canter for five strides, after much kicking, is better than the all-singing, all-dancing whizzy competition pony.

6. Remember that just because a pony behaves beautifully for someone else’s child, it doesn’t necessarily mean it will with yours — but try and work out why before you blame the pony.

7. Be prepared to be the envy of everyone if you find a PPCP — and warn your children that others may be jealous.

• To stay up to date with all the breaking news from major shows throughout the season, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

You may also be interested in:

16 things we miss about being young

If for you the days of Pony Club, picnic rides and galloping ponies bareback across stubble fields are but a

Been there, done that, got the t-shirt: 5 reasons you can always rely on a family horse

There’s nothing to beat a good family horse — this Mr Dependable of the horse world might not be a

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

Taking on a new horse or pony is an exciting – and often daunting – experience, full of new firsts, especially if you have never had sole responsibility for a horse before.

While many will be eager to get a new partnership under way, it can be useful to spend time on the basics during the first few weeks. Don’t put pressure on yourself to have any specific boxes ticked ahead of establishing a good connection and level of understanding with your new horse.

Dr Gemma Pearson, veterinary behaviourist expert and director of equine behaviour for The Horse Trust, says it is important to remember that a horse is going through many changes when it moves to a new yard with a new owner.

“It’s a lot of change all at once – there’s a new owner and new way of handling and riding the horse, a new premises, introductions to new horses,” she says. “It’s important to really look at them as individuals and monitor how well they’re doing.

“I would always say to give a horse or pony at least a week of just allowing them to settle into their new environment, and in that time do a little bit of groundwork with them to make things really easy.”

Look out for signs your new horse is giving

Equine welfare charity HorseWorld rehomes horses and ponies every year and currently has 185 horses and ponies on loan. The charity’s head of equine welfare Sarah Hollister advises to look out for signals a horse might be displaying that they are unsure.

“If they are doing things like refusing to be caught, not wanting to engage with you, spooking, or planting when you’re trying to bring them in, these are all signs that they’re not yet comfortable [with you and their environment],” says Sarah.

“You might need to take the pressure off until you can do basic things like catching, leading and grooming them in their new environment [without them showing signs of stress] before doing anything more.”

Gemma advises that once a horse is showing the following signs of being comfortable, owners can take those next steps.

“When they leave their field companions they’ll walk out confidently, they’re not hesitant or walking faster, or calling back,” she says.

“You’re looking for no muscular tension, and that the horse is relaxed, calm and quiet.

“When you bring them in, they’ll stand quietly while things are happening, they’re not looking around for potential threats.”

Don’t make sudden changes

A new horse might come with the tack they have always been ridden in, but BHSII and UKCC coach Danielle Quigley of Holmside Hall Equestrian recommends having this checked by a qualified saddler to ensure it fits correctly.

“On the basis that the tack fits, you don’t want to make sudden changes if they have always been used to a certain bridle or bit for example,” she says.

“Similarly, if they are on hard feed I would stick to this, or if you are reducing their level of work, consider cutting down or removing all hard feed so they don’t have extra energy that isn’t being used.”

When working with a client with a new horse, Danielle will take into consideration the horse’s age and experience and what they have been doing in their previous home.

“Hopefully the new owner has tried them a couple of times before they took them home,” she says. “I would usually recommend taking things slowly to begin with.”

Danielle may recommend someone experienced putting the horse on the lunge if they haven’t been ridden for a while, as this will give the horse the chance to move its body without the rider.

“When getting on for the first time it is useful to have a friend there, so you’ve got some reassurance – and similarly if you’re going on your first hack, making sure to have some company either from another rider, or someone on the ground. I recommend keeping sessions short and simple while you get to know each other,” she adds.

Some basic groundwork exercises before you get on can be really helpful to establish a connection.

“If everything is going happy and well, and with the help of your coach, you can then proceed with building up the workload in a sensible manner,” advises Danielle. “But it’s important to remember everyone is bound to have teething problems. They are horses are not machines, and it can take time to build up that rapport with a new horse.”

Sarah says where riders encounter problems such as napping when taking a horse away to ride or leaving the yard, this is often down to confidence issues from both horse and rider.

“If you have a horse that doesn’t want to leave their friends, generally it can be that the horse is feeling a bit anxious or worried,” she says. “Maybe the rider doesn’t have the confidence or competence at that point to give the horse the reassurance it needs, so that’s where having somebody with experience to give them a hand will pay dividends.

“Another thing to be aware of is separation anxiety, especially in cases where someone keeps a horse at home or in a field and there is only one other horse as a companion. We always recommend introducing separation as part of your training from the beginning, even if it’s just taking one horse out for a few minutes and putting them back together, and building on that.”

Check out Jason Webb’s advice on how to help horses suffering separation anxiety.

Seeking help with your new horse

Gemma adds that it can be tough for new owners and talking to others can help – and she recommends that people are not afraid to seek professional advice early on.

“Finding other liveries on the same wavelength, or just someone to offload and talk to about what’s going on is useful,” she says. “We know that emotionally it can be difficult for new horse owners so it’s finding someone that can hopefully reassure you.

“If you’ve got a relationship with a riding instructor that knows you talk to them about your concerns. Or, consider a clinical animal behaviourist. If things aren’t going as expected with a new horse we would recommend getting on top of these things sooner rather than later.

“What normally happens is people have gone round the houses and it’s six months or a year down the line that as a veterinary behaviourist I get involved, and it’s so much harder to get that relationship back on board than if we’re involved at two weeks.”

Did you find this article interesting? You may also enjoy reading…

Is your horse pushy or bargy? These three simple groundwork exercises can help establish your personal space, improve your communication and keep you safer

How to stop your horse being pushy on the ground – and train him to stand when tied up

5 types of horsey parent you might see ringside

Does the prospect of riding alone fill you with dread? Follow these top tips to fill you with confidence and inspiration instead

Fancy a beach ride, but feel nervous riding in open spaces? This expert advice will help build your confidence so you can enjoy it

Build your horse’s confidence with this expert’s guide to classical conditioning

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

If you’re on the hunt to buy a Welsh section D to ride and compete, this guide is for you.

What is a Welsh section D?

The Welsh section D — or the Welsh cob — is the largest of the Welsh breeds. The breed has no upper height limit but must exceed 13.2hh to ensure it is in fact a section D and not a section C. While there is no maximum height requirement, it is desirable that the section D retains pony character and true Welsh type.

The section D can be any colour, except piebald and skewbald. Grey colouring is more rare than in other types of Welsh ponies, but white markings are common.

A Welsh cob’s action should be: “Free, true and forcible. The knee should be bent and the whole foreleg should be extended straight from the shoulder and as far forward as possible in the trot. Hocks flexed under the body with straight and powerful leverage.”

Welsh Pony and Cob Society conformation standard for Welsh section Ds

General character: Strong, hardy and active, with pony character and as much substance as possible

Head: Full of quality and pony character. A coarse head and Roman nose are most objectionable

Eyes: Bold, prominent and set widely apart

Ears: Neat and well set

Neck: Lengthy and well carried. Moderately lean in the case of mares, but inclined to be cresty in the case of mature stallions

Shoulders: Strong but well laid back

Forelegs: Set square and not tied in at the elbows. Long, strong forearms. Knees well developed with an abundance of bone below them. Pasterns of proportionate slope and length. Feet well shaped. Hooves dense. When in the rough, a moderate quantity of silky feather is not objected to but coarse, wiry hair is a definite objection.

Middlepiece: Back and loins, muscular, strong and well-coupled. Deep through the heart and well ribbed up.

Hindquarters: Lengthy and strong. Ragged or drooping quarters are objectionable. Tail well set on.

Hind legs: Second thighs, strong and muscular. Hocks, large, flat and clean, with points prominent, turning neither inward nor outward. The hind legs must not be too bent and the hock not set behind a line falling from the point of the quarter to the fetlock joint. Pasterns of proportionate slope and length. Feet well shaped. Hooves dense.

The Welsh Pony and Cob Society suggests that the section D has been aptly described as “the best ride and drive animal in the world”.

“The general character is the embodiment of strength, hardiness and agility. The Welsh cob is a good hunter and a most competent performer in all competitive sports. In recent years they have had great success in the international driving world. Their abilities in all spheres are now fully recognised throughout the world.”

What can I do with a Welsh section D?

Welsh section Ds are a breed that you will find in most disciplines in the UK and across the globe. Welsh section Ds are popular showing animals, with standalone classes at major finals such as Horse of the Year Show (HOYS). They compete in the large breeds category against other native breeds, or in specific Welsh section C and D classes.

The breed is popular as they can carry most adults and taller riders, but have native pony traits meaning they are generally hardy. They can fare well in dressage owing to their movement, and the more athletic types also have a presence in working hunter classes, eventing, showjumping and out hunting. Some Welsh section Ds have also competed successfully in driving and they can also make good all-rounders and non-competitive rides. The in-hand showing scene is equally well supported, with many breeders showcasing their home-bred stock at breed shows, on the county show circuit and beyond.

Ultimately, the ideal job for each pony depends on its type, character traits and natural talent in specific areas.

Is it the right breed for me?

Aimee Devane is a leading native pony producer who has ridden many successful Welsh section Ds. Her first top pony was the gelding Pentrepiod The Judge but she has since ridden many stars, including the late Aleanto Bon A Parte and Steppers Relight My Fire, ridden champion at the Royal Welsh in 2023.

“They are my favourite breed,” Aimee confirms. “But I would not say a Welsh cob is the breed for an easy life in the sense they can be more hot-headed and generally do need stimulation and consistency to get the best out of them, especially in the early stages of training. This does not mean dangerous, but you need to have your wits about you.

“Obviously, upbringing has a lot to do with how they take to ridden work, and you do find more laid-back examples. If you find the right pony for you, though, they are amazing animals to work with and train.”

What should I look for in a Welsh section D?

“I like an old-fashioned type; I’m looking for a true pony of cob type and my preference for the show ring is for something that stands between 14hh and 14.2hh, ideally no bigger,” Aimee says. “I’m looking for a pony that has a nice length of rein as well as good bone, feather and feet. You can add topline, but you cannot add limb, feather or foot.

“I would look for something with an uphill front as this is usually an indicator of how they will eventually ride. A lot of cobs don’t have the most natural canter, so if they’re more uphill they’re likely to find that pace easier. They can be later maturers, though, and the canter can come as they get stronger. There are a few four- and five-year-olds who have a solid temperament and brain, but you will usually start to get the very best out of a Welsh section D when it is six or seven.

“Movement-wise, I like a bit of knee action that comes up and out from the shoulder. I like a pony that covers the ground; we don’t want a pony that daisy-cuts. A Welsh cob should arguably be one of the biggest movers in a ring of natives, but it’s important that we’re getting the true action without rushing or pushing the pony out of its natural rhythm.”

How much should I expect to pay?

As with any horse or pony, the price will depend on several factors including the market at the time as well as the individual animal’s temperament, age, quality, competition record and breeding.

“Welsh cobs are very valuable as they can take a taller rider,” Aimee says. “I would always find a Welsh section D easier to sell than a Welsh section C of equal quality. Plus, a Welsh section D with form in the show ring is likely to have the ability to go and succeed in another discipline, especially dressage due to their movement.

“The price I would pay for a pony depends on quality,” Aimee adds. “You can find unbroken ponies for £1,500, and ridden ponies for £8,000, but it does depend on how much potential the animal has. For the top end I would want something special that has it all; bone, feather, movement and flare. Obviously, after being backed and trained the prices increase. Top ridden ponies can go from anywhere between £10,000 and £15,000, often more.”

I’ve bought a pony, now what?

It is time to organise a pre-purchase vetting, something that is strongly recommended. It’s important to let the vet know prior to the vetting what you intend to use the pony for so they can assess it accordingly. If you tell the vet you want the pony for the show ring, they should hopefully inform you of any blemishes or conformational faults which could impact its future career, even if they don’t impact its soundness or performance.

“Due to my experience I often buy ponies without a vetting, and I also buy them unseen if sourcing from breeders or from vendors I trust,” Aimee says. “Every pony will have a job, too, even if it’s not in the show ring or in competition.”

For more information, you can read H&H’s ultimate guide to buying a horse.

• To stay up to date with all the breaking news from major shows throughout the season, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

You may also be interested in:

The Welsh section D: the ‘native cobs’ with power, action and presence

While there is no maximum height requirement, it is desirable that the section D retains pony character and true Welsh

Native breed experts pinpoint 6 core skills for your pony to be light, forward and responsive in the ring this season

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

If you’re hoping to buy a Dales pony for the show ring or to simply enjoy, then this guide on what to look for is the ideal starting point.

What is a Dales pony?

The Dales pony is one of the Britain’s native breeds. According to the Dales Pony Society (DPS), the Dales is a native of the upper dales of the eastern slopes of the Pennine range, from the High Peak in Derbyshire to the Cheviot Hills near the Scottish Border, where a lead mining industry flourished from Roman times until the mid-nineteenth century.

During the late 17th Century, the Scotch Galloway was the favoured breed for fast pack work.

The DPS says: “Suitable native mares ran with the breeding herds and it is recorded that farmers also liked to run a few Scotch mares with the native herds on the fell.

“The largest, strongest and most active ponies were chosen for pack work and were well fed to ensure fitness and speed. So it was that the black Galloways of the mixed herds eventually superseded the Scotch Galloway, and eventually became the Dales pony through a series of improvements from several sources.

“The Scotch Galloways were famous for their ‘peculiarly deep and clean legs, their qualities were speed, stoutness and sure-footedness over a rugged and mountainous country’. In turn, the Dales ponies became renowned for their great strength, iron constitution, endurance, and the ability to get over rough country fast.”

Dales ponies ideally stand between 14hh to 14.2hh, but there is no upper height limit on the breed.

Dales ponies can be registered as follows (credit DPS):

• Section A: By a registered, licensed stallion, and out of either a section A or a section B mare, and displaying correct markings.
• Section B: By a registered, licensed stallion and:
  a) out of a section A or a section B mare, but displaying incorrect markings.
  b) out of section C mare, and correct in type and colour.
• Section C: By a registered, licensed stallion and out of section D mare, and correct in type & colour.
• Section D: Passed by two inspectors as being true to type, height and colour (closed 31 December 1971).

The Society also maintains a part-bred register.

Dales ponies are predominantly black but some are brown, bay, grey and, more rarely, roan. White markings, such as a star and/or a snip, and white to the hind fetlocks, are allowed. Ponies displaying more white than this are down graded from section A to section B.

Dales Pony Society breed standard

Head: Neat and pony-like. Broad between the eyes, which should be bright and alert. Pony ears slightly incurving. Long foretop of straight hair down the face.

Neck: Strong and of ample length. Stallions should display a bold outlook with a well-arched crest. Throat and jaws clean-cut. Long, flowing mane.

Shoulders: Well-laid, long, sloping shoulders with well-developed muscles. Withers not too fine.

Body: Short-coupled and deep through the chest, with well-sprung ribs.

Hindquarters: Deep, lengthy and powerful. Second thighs well-developed and very muscular. Tail well set on, not high, with plenty of long, straight hair reaching the ground.

Hocks: Broad, Flat and clean. Well let down with plenty of dense flat bone below.

Forearms: Set square. Short and very muscular, with broad, well-developed knees.

Feet, legs and joints: The very best of feet and legs, with flexible joints, showing quality with no coarseness. The cannons should display eight to nine inch (20.3cm — 22.9cm) of flat, flinty bone and well defined tendons. Pasterns should be nicely sloping and of good length. Ample silky feather on the heels. Large, round feet open at the heels, with well developed frogs.

Action: The Dales is defined by its flashy, energetic action. The knee and hock should be lifted and the hind legs should be flexed well under the body for powerful drive.

Dales ponies are popular all-rounders, succeeding in multiple disciplines. The DPS says: “Dales ponies were bred for a specific job in a harsh environment. When the job changed, they were successfully adapted for other uses, and today the ponies can demonstrate all the qualities and abilities which brought their forebears such renown.

“The combination of strength, agility, thrift, hardiness and high courage, with good conformation and a calm, intelligent nature, makes the Dales pony a first-class riding and driving pony with all the abilities of a true all-rounder.”

What should I look for in a Dales pony?

Anna Pennell and her family breed Dales ponies under the Nipna prefix. Ponies from the stud have won at all major fixtures as well as at breed shows. Their stallion Nipna Midnight Rambler was crowned supreme M&M champion at London International in 2023.

“Whatever pony I’m looking at I start with the quality of the feet and the lower limbs,” explains Anna. “They need to have quality bone with a good-sized, strong foot. Hocks and joints are so important to any breed.

“Working our way up the pony, I’d look for a good shoulder, especially if seeking a future ridden pony. If looking for a ridden animal, I’d like slightly longer pasterns, but not too long as they need to stand up to work. The angle of the pastern should also match the length of the shoulder. This gives them the true Dales trot and comfortable ride that they are known for.”

Anna also says that Dales ponies are known to be slow maturers compared to other natives, so going into a viewing with an open mind is essential: “Don’t expect most four-year-olds to be ready to go out and do it all. I would not be worried if a six or seven-year-old was immature, either, as most of them don’t come into their prime until they are at least eight years old, but some take even longer. Of course, there are the odd exceptions to this rule, but they are generally late maturers that require time and patience to develop both mentally and physically.

“The action of a Dales should be akin to a wagon wheel,” Anna continues. “They should move up and travel forwards. We don’t want a pony to ‘potato-mash’ up and down, or daisy cut. The best of the best tend to move from the get go, but if I saw a nice two or three-year-old with quite average movement I would not write it off. They can often develop their action under-saddle and it can take time for them to strengthen and become more powerful.”

When asked if prospective buyers should look for a section A or a section B Dales, Anna advises: “I have no issues with section Bs — there are successful section Bs out and about on the circuit. If you want to show then a pony with four white socks and a blaze is not ideal, but they are extra markings at the end of the day, not a conformational defect. If you don’t want to show, a section A or a section B could be suitable for you as Dales ponies generally make super all-rounders that can do anything and everything.”

Where to buy a Dales pony

Online horse for sale sites have Dales ponies advertised when they are available, but Anna warns that as the Dales is a rare and in demand breed, they are rarely advertised on the open market.

“A good starting point is to get in touch with the DPS,” says Anna. “Then, it’s always a good idea to go to breed shows and speak with breeders who might have stock currently available or coming up for sale in the near future. I would not expect many ponies to be advertised on sales sites throughout the year, though; once people get hold of a Dales they rarely want to let them go!”

How much does a Dales pony cost?

The price of a Dales pony will depend on several factors, including breeding, age and competition record.

“We have sold colt foals for around £2,000 and filly foals for around £3,000,” Anna says. “If you have a rising four or five-year-old ready for breaking you could expect them to sell for between £4,000 and £5,000, perhaps more. An established show pony could easily fetch between £10,000 and £15,000. This is an estimate for ponies good enough to show, though you can certainly find ponies for less, and for more.”

What happens when I’ve agreed to buy a pony?

If you decide to purchase a pony a pre-purchase vetting is strongly recommended. It’s important to let the vet know prior to the vetting what you intend to use the pony for so they can assess it accordingly.

“I would have an older pony put through a two-stage vetting, at least,” Anna says. “But a lot of buying a pony is about common sense. If you don’t feel you are experienced enough to make a decision on a pony’s health and soundless, always seek professional advice.”

For more information, you can read H&H’s ultimate guide to buying a horse.

• To stay up to date with all the breaking news from major shows throughout the year, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

You may also be interested in:

The Dales pony: the hardy, hairy ponies who can turn a hoof at any job

‘He does the lot, even half pass’: amateur’s joy as her dressage star leads Dales field at HOYS

‘What a result for the breed’: Dales stallions take top two spots in M&M supreme at London International

Dales stallion performs like a ‘true superstar’ to be crowned HOYS M&M champion

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

A ladies’ horse for the show ring has a niche set of requirements, so if you’re looking to buy a side-saddle horse for this season or for some time in the future, then our guide is a must-read.

What is riding side-saddle?

Side-saddle is a style of riding that requires the rider to sit with both legs to one side of the saddle, rather than astride. Traditionally, side-saddle riding was undertaken by women out hunting, hence the word ladies’ being used when referring to side-saddle showing classes. Sitting sideways allowed a woman to ride a horse while also wearing a long dress.

Compared to riding astride, a side-saddle rider sits further back and on more top of the horse with both legs positioned to one side. Many riders carry a cane to use as a guide, support and to give signals to the horse on the offside, and have a longer length of rein.

Many showing classes permit side-saddle riders and there are also a host of sections and shows specifically for enthusiasts, such as the National Side-Saddle Association championships. On the showing circuit, the most prestigious classes to win are the ladies’ show hunter final at the Royal International (RIHS) and the ladies’ show horse of the year at the Horse of the Year Show (HOYS). 

Many riders choose to ride sideways and there are many opportunities to give it a go aside from in the show ring. Hunting and dressage are disciplines where you may spot side-saddle riders.

Will my current horse do side-saddle?

Katie Jerram-Hunnable has ridden many top side-saddle horses during her career. She was supreme at HOYS in 2010 with the ladies’ champion Dunbeacon.

Katie advises that if you have a younger horse that has never carried a side-saddle before, then it is not a given that the horse will take to it.

“While you can often predict if a horse is going to carry a side-saddle due to their stamp and how they are put together, sometimes they just don’t like the feel of it,” Katie says. “In this instance I would not push it; it’s a big heavy saddle and it can provide a feeling that not every horse will cope with.”

What qualities should I look for in a side-saddle horse?

“A good ladies’ horse should not be so big that it’s possibly intimidating,” Katie continues. “For me, an ideal stamp would be somewhere between a large riding horse and a lightweight hunter, and in years gone by, the top ladies’ rides were lovely thoroughbred horses.”

Conformation, like in any type of show horse, is key, as Katie explains: “You want a nice shoulder, a good length of rein and somewhere for the saddle to sit comfortably on the back. For the ladies’ job, I would avoid a horse that is too tall – it will be difficult for the judge to get on – or something with flat withers. I would also avoid a horse with choppy striding, an upside down neck or an excessively straight shoulder. If the horse had plenty of length through the ribs that would be preferable to a horse that was shorter and more butty in its body.

“Temperament wise, you want a horse that is trainable, and also not cold backed in the slightest,” Katie adds. “Side-saddle horses have to cope with a lot; you only have one leg, using a stick as the other, so they do need to be relatively easy going, though they can learn and improve with consistent training. I like a horse with a good mouth for this job; when I’m ride judging I like to be able to take a contact. We don’t want something that holds itself too high or won’t take the rein forward, we are looking for an even and soft feel in the contact.”

How much should I expect to pay?

Horses vary in price depending on many factors such as competition record, breeding, age, temperament and experience, as well as the situation of the seller. As a ladies’ horse will likely have a sound temperament and usually takes a side-saddle as a secondary job, they can fetch higher prices.

“I would expect to pay between £15,000 and £30,000 for a good ladies’ horse with a nice temperament and quality conformation,” says Katie. “That is quite a large window, but an open horse or something that is at least up and running in a side-saddle would be in demand.”

Where should I look?

Side-saddle horses will be advertised at various times in the season on online platforms, via private sellers and professional horse dealers. Horses are sometimes sold via word of mouth.

Katie has introduced many horses to a side-saddle herself, though she says this is not something to introduce during a viewing: “If someone came to view a horse that had never taken a side-saddle before and asked if it could be ridden in one on the day, I would say no, even if they thought it to be the ideal stamp for the job. This would be your responsibility once you got the horse home and had gotten used to him astride. Rome wasn’t built in a day, so don’t rush this process.”

I’ve agreed to buy a horse, now what?

When you have agreed on a sale, it is time to organise a pre-purchase vetting, something that is strongly recommended.

The vet will assess the horse with the specific job you want it for in mind, so it’s important to let the vet know prior to the vetting that your main goal is to ride side-saddle. If you tell the vet that you want the horse for the show ring, they should hopefully inform you of any blemishes or conformational faults which could impact its future career, even if they don’t impact its soundness or performance.

“I would never sell a horse without a vetting being done, and I would never buy a horse without a vetting certificate, either,” says Katie. “A five-stage would be preferable for an open show horse.”

For more information, you can read H&H’s ultimate guide to buying a horse.

• To stay up to date with all the breaking news from major shows throughout the season, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

You may also be interested in:

Effortless elegance (or so it seems): refine your side-saddle skills to glide to the top of the ladies’ show horse line-up

Side by side: Three generations of side saddle riders compete at championship show

Keeping it in the family...

Irish rider breaks world side saddle high jump record

Susan Oakes and her grey stallion SIEC Atlas cleared 6'8" (2.03m), beating an unofficial record set in Australia over 100

Side-saddle rider and multi-talented gelding cut elegant picture at Winter Dressage Championships

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

Looking to buy a Highland pony to be your next best friend? If you’re wanting a ride for the show ring, or you are simply looking for a larger pony that’s hardy, versatile and fun, this native breed is definitely worthy of your consideration.

What is a Highland pony?

The Highland Pony is one of the three native pony breeds of the Scottish Highlands and Islands (alongside the Shetland and Eriskay), but there are now studs located throughout Scotland, England, Wales, Europe and across the rest of the word. The Highland pony was originally bred to work on small farms in Scotland, and while some ponies are still worked in parts of the countryside, they are now used for a variety of riding activities.

The Highland Pony Society (HPS) is the guardian of the breed and offers the following description on what to look for in a good example:

“The Highland pony is a strong, well-balanced, compact pony with all its features being in proportion to its height. It is one of the largest of the British native breeds and should show substance and strength. The strength and sound temperament of Highland ponies make them good work horses and they are still used in areas inaccessible to machines, such as in logging or to extract deer carcasses from the hill.”

Height: Not to exceed 14.2hh (148cm).

Head: Well carried and alert with kindly eye. Broad muzzled with a deep jowl.

Neck and Shoulders: Reasonable length of neck from wither with a good sloping shoulder and well placed forearm.

Body: Well balanced and compact with plenty of room for heart and lungs. Ribs well sprung.

Quarters and Hindlegs: Powerful quarters with well developed thigh, strong second thigh and clean flat hocks.

Legs: Flat hard bone, broad knees, short cannon bones, oblique pasterns and well shaped broad dark hoofs. Feather soft and silky. Ponies of Western Isles type may have striped hoofs which grow out at maturity.

Mane and Tail: Hair should be natural, flowing and untrimmed with a full tail.

Colours: A range of duns, mouse, yellow, grey, cream. Also grey, brown, black, bay and occasionally liver chestnut with silver mane and tail. Many ponies have a dorsal stripe and some show zebra markings on legs and shoulder. Foal coat colour often changes and many ponies change colour gradually as they grow older, especially those with grey hairs interspersed with the original colour. Others show a slight seasonal change in colour between winter and summer coats. Broken colours are not allowed. A small star is acceptable but other white markings are discouraged. Stallions with white markings other than a small star are not eligible for licensing.

Action: Straight and free moving without undue knee action.

Capabilities: A ride, drive and pack animal which can adapt to many equestrian disciplines.

The late Queen Elizabeth II was known for her love of the breed. She was a patron of the society and she bred Highland ponies under the Balmoral prefix. Her ponies won many titles, including the in-hand supreme at Royal Windsor.

The Highland Pony Enthusiasts Club says the fact that Highlands perform well in comparatively slow work such as trekking, forestry and deer-carrying suggests that they have a calm, steady temperament: “This makes them outstandingly suitable for the nervous or elderly, and they have also been used successfully as mounts for disabled riders, all of whom appreciate their confidence-giving attributes.

“However, it must not be thought that, because they are kind and reliable, they are also dull. For many a Highland has shown itself to be a keen, active ride in the hunting field and, correctly schooled, to be able to compete with great success in Pony Club and riding club activities – making up by sure-footedness and handiness what it may lack in outright speed. With the present revival in harness work both for showing and for pleasure, the ponies are once more proving their worth in this field also.

“Safe, reliable, friendly, a good, comfortable ride, constitutionally strong and hardy, attractive to look at, and with considerably more versatility than is generally appreciated, the Highland pony has so much to offer.”

Highland ponies are popular in the show ring and they have form at major shows. An example is stallion Benbreac Of Crolia who was the 2018 Royal International supreme pony, becoming the first native to land the title, while stallion Stirlingdene was supreme at HOYS in 2012.

What should I look for in a Highland?

Gillian McMurray is a leading judge and she also breeds Highlands under the Trailtrow Prefix. Ponies from the Trailtrow Stud have featured at Horse of the Year Show (HOYS) and London International several times, winning best of breed titles on many occasions. Gillian was supreme at Olympia in 1987 riding her foundation mare, Dunrowan Dolphin.

“I would recommend that most prospective buyers attend some big shows – such as Blair, the Royal Highland or the HPS breed show – to look at classes of ponies and see how much variation in type there is within the breed,” says Gillian.

“The type you would want for a top ridden pony would differ compared to the pony you’d need for hacking or deer work. If looking for a pony for the ridden job, I would want something with a good length of rein and a good shoulder, nothing too straight. Then, we want a lovely round hind-end with a short second thigh; this is the engine of the pony that pushes it forwards. There are a few ponies out there that are too straight in the hind-leg and it does show during their ridden work.

“Like with any pony, we want nice straight limbs that don’t deviate from the knee down, as well as good strong feet.

“Movement wise, the walk is a really important pace. Traditionally, the Highland would spend the majority of its time walking. Canter isn’t their natural pace; many can find it hard to come up off their forehand in the canter. However, if you find something with a good hind leg they will find it easier.”

Where should I buy a Highland from?

There are online sale sites that have Highland ponies advertised throughout the year.

“Attending shows to see what type of pony you are looking for is the best place to start,” says Gillian. “Then, it would be a case of approaching breeders. Some breeders produce for riding more than others, so it completely depends on what job you want your pony to do. Most breeders will have youngstock for sale, so if you’re looking for a pony that is up and running, you should check out breed enthusiast groups, or the HPS has a sales list on their website.

“Make sure you ask around to see if anyone has seen the pony out and about, especially if it’s done some showing,” Gillian adds. “This could help you gage if the pony is suitable for you and your set-up.”

How much should I expect to pay?

Prices vary greatly depending on the age and experience of the pony.

“I would be wary of something that is very cheap due to the general price of Highlands these days,” Gillian says. “There are only approximately 250 foals born each year, so prices have gone up. At minimum, you can expect to pay anything from £2,000 for a foal at weaning, and you can expect a reasonable amount to be added on each year. A pony ready for breaking could reach anything from £5,000 upwards. Winning ponies with experience have been advertised for around the £15,000 mark.”

I’ve found a pony, now what?

It is time to organise a pre-purchase vetting, something that is strongly recommended. If the pony is for a junior rider, asking for a trial period would be sensible, but not all sellers will agree to this.

It’s important to let the vet know prior to the vetting what you intend to use the pony for so they can assess it accordingly. If you tell the vet that you want the pony for the show ring, they should hopefully inform you of any blemishes or conformational faults which could impact its future career, even if they don’t impact its soundness or performance.

“A vetting is sensible, though a five-stage would not be appropriate for a youngster,” Gillian says. “If you’re going to view young ponies, do take someone experienced with you. If you are buying something up and running, then a vetting would be advised.”

For more information, you can read H&H’s ultimate guide to buying a horse.

• To stay up to date with all the breaking news throughout major shows throughout the year, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

You may also be interested in:

The Highland pony: the tough working ponies who can shine in the show ring or in the hills

Find out more about this British native breed

Native breed experts pinpoint 6 core skills for your pony to be light, forward and responsive in the ring this season

‘He knew he was spectacular’: Farewell to one of the most prolific Highland ponies of all time

Go behind the scenes at The Queen’s Highland pony stud at Balmoral

Highland stallion bags supreme pony title at the Royal International Horse Show

With two contenders on the same marks, it was all the play for...

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

If you’re looking to buy a mini show pony for either lead rein or first ridden classes, continue reading for expert advice on how to source the correct partner for your young child.

What is a show pony?

The show pony, also known as the children’s riding pony, is a type of pony that has its own defined category within showing.

Show pony classes are usually divided into height sections with each class possessing its own rider age limit.

The four individual classes run 128cm, 138cm, and 148cm sections with a single championship, and lead rein and first ridden show ponies have their own separate classes culminating in their own mini championship.

Show ponies should be elegant, graceful and mannerly, suitable for a child or young person to show. They should possess clean limbs, balanced yet expressive paces, pretty heads and a good length of rein.

Show ponies are judged on an individual show and on their conformation.

The highest level of show pony classes are governed by the British Show Pony Society (BSPS). In the UK, the riding pony stud-book is still administered by the National Pony Society (NPS) — first formed in 1893 as the Polo Pony Stud Book Society.

Show ponies are presented plaited up and in a bridle with a coloured browband. Jockeys wear navy jackets and short jodhpur boots.

What are the restrictions on mini show ponies?

In the lead rein and first ridden show pony classes, ponies must not exceed 122cm.

Under BSPS rules, riders in lead rein classes must not have attained their eighth birthday before 1 January in the current year. Riders must not be under three years of age. In first ridden classes, a rider is not to have attained their 10th birthday before 1 January in the current year.

In tiny tots first ridden classes, riders must be under eight years of age. Lead rein tiny tops competitors must be aged under five.

Show pony classes are hosted at most shows across the country, from local level to national championships.

What makes a good mini show pony?

Claire Smalley and her mother Ann breed show ponies under the Barkway Prefix. Ponies from the Barkway Stud have won accolades at all major shows, including the Royal International and Horse of the Year Show.

Top ponies from the stud include Barkway Take That, Barkway Black Jack, Barkway Moonfair, Barkway Mr McGregor, Barkway Huckleberry, Barkway Sweet William, Barkway Precocious and Barkway Blackberry. Their home-breds have dominated the line-ups at the HOYS and the RIHS.

“Temperament is key with mini ponies of any type,” says Claire. “You need a pony that is trainable, safe and sensible, especially when it is for a young child. A show pony, though, also needs to have that look-at-me quality. If they are going into the show ring they need to stand out and have a little spark about them that catches the eye.

“Conformation wise, the pony must be of quality. I would not buy anything that is over at the knee. I like a big front and a good shoulder, and a visible position for the saddle. Mini ponies don’t need such a huge engine, but I do like nice, big movement. When you look at a pony everything should be correct and look like it belongs together. A weak back end is never good. Also, something I think I’ve inherited from Mum, is a liking for a very pretty head; it’s the first thing you see.

“I have never been particular about coat colour,” Claire adds. “There are some people who can’t look past some colours, including chestnuts, and favour others, particularly black ponies, but in my opinion colour shouldn’t matter. I also think something a bit different stands out!”

Do lead reins and first riddens differ in type?

Claire says the type of pony you choose will depend on what job you want it for.

“A first ridden will be scopier, have a slightly bigger frame and should stand over more ground than a lead rein. A first ridden should also differ in type to an open 128cm contender,” she says. “We’ve previously had two black youngsters in the field and while from afar they looked very similar, on closer inspection they were of a different type. One was dinkier and more petite, the ideal lead rein, while the other had more scope and range, though not bigger in height, so more likely to be a successful first ridden.

“It can be beneficial for people to take their first riddens out in lead rein classes at the beginning of their careers, however, to gain experience and learn,” Claire adds.

How much should I pay for a mini show pony?

The prices of mini show ponies will vary depending on many factors, including the show ring CV of the pony.

“The market can vary greatly,” says Claire. “But over the past 20 years we’ve sold three-year-old ponies for between £3,000 and £4,000, on average. Breeders work hard to match bloodlines, keep the mare, get the foal on the ground and keep the pony until it’s aged three or four. If we sell it for around this mark then we’re not making money; it’s definitely a labour of love!

“A pony that has been in the ring and has enjoyed success could easily be worth between £10,000 and £15,000, especially if it’s a safe first ridden with a good temperament,” Claire adds.

Where should I buy a mini show pony from?

There are online sale sites such as Whickr that have show pony lead reins and first riddens advertised throughout the year.

Where you source your new pony from will depend on what stage you would like the animal to be at.

“It depends on your experience, your own set up and your personal finances,” Claire says. “And it also depends if you want to buy a ready made pony or you would rather do it yourself. If you want a pony that is ready to go and you have a child who is of the right age you might be looking at a pony that’s with a producer or in a private home. If you’re wanting a new face you can approach breeders. You’re likely to get more quality for less money if you buy something that is not established.”

I’ve agreed to buy a pony, now what?

It is strongly recommended that you arrange a pre-purchase vetting. As the pony is for a child, asking for a trial period would be sensible, but not all sellers will agree to this. If you do have a pony on trial, it is important that you insure it.

Let the vet know prior to the vetting what you intend to use the pony for so they can assess it with this in mind. If you want the pony for the show ring, ask the vet to inform you of any blemishes or conformational faults which could impact its career, but do bear in mind that vets are not showing judges.

It’s also worth sharing with the vet the age and experience of the junior rider the pony is intended for, and whether you intend to place the pony with a professional producer or have the pony at home, so they can consider on the pony’s temperament during the assessment, too. Small ponies can also be susceptible to laminitis so you may want to ask the vet to consider this risk.

“Whether or not to proceed with a vetting does depend on how experienced you are, for example, would you be able to spot if a pony shows signs of lameness?” Claire says. “If you are in any doubt about anything then cover yourself with a vetting, and it also depends on how much money you are spending on a pony. I’ve had ponies vetted, and others not, though it’s always a gamble when buying a horse or pony.”

For more information, you can read H&H’s ultimate guide to buying a horse.

• To stay up to date with all the breaking news throughout the season, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

You may also be interested in:

Little steps for big results: lead-rein producers share their winning formulae for the show ring’s budding stars

‘Build a bond with the pony before the jockey gets on’: Leading producer shares her top tips for training lead rein ponies

7 homework lessons for first-ridden combinations to build confidence and success for the new season

First impressions count in the show ring: why the go-round can make or break your class – and how to ace it

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

If you want to buy a Shetland pony for yourself if you’re a small adult or for your child, then this guide with tips from a breeder is good place to start.

What is a Shetland pony?

The Shetland pony is a British native breed of pony that hails from the Shetland Isles. It is a small and hardy breed, standing at no more than 42 inches (107 cms), while their minimum height limit is 28 inches (71.1 cms).

The Shetland Pony Stud Book Society provides a breed standard that describes the ideal type:

Shetland ponies may be any colour known in horses except spotted. The mane and tail hair should be long, straight and profuse.

The head should be small, and in proportion. Ears should be small and erect, wide set but pointing well forward. Forehead should be broad with bold, dark, intelligent eyes. Muzzle must be broad with nostrils wide and open. Teeth and jaw must be correct.

The neck should be properly set onto the shoulder, which in turn should be sloping, not upright, and end in a well defined wither. The body should be strong, with plenty of heart room, well sprung ribs, the loin strong and muscular.

The quarters should be broad and long with the tail set well up on them.

These should have good, flat bone. Strong forearm. Short balanced cannon bone. Springy pasterns.

The thighs should be strong and muscular with well-shaped strong hocks. When viewed from behind, the hindlegs should not be set too widely apart, nor should the hocks be turned in.

Straight and free action using every joint. Tracking up well.

The feet should be tough, round and well shaped.

A most salient and essential feature of the Shetland pony is its general air of vitality (presence), stamina and robustness.

Shetland ponies are shown in small breed ridden mountain and moorland (M&M) classes and currently they compete against Exmoors at the Horse of the Year Show (HOYS) final. They are popular choices for junior, lead rein and first ridden ponies, too, given their size. Scopey Shetlands have also featured in 122cm working hunter pony classes over the years.

The Shetland Pony Grand National is an organisation that raises money each year for a nominated charity. A number of ponies and their jockeys race at prestigious venues across the country.

Shetland ponies are also a good option for driving exhibits given their temperaments, weight-carrying abilities, stamina and intelligence.

What should I look for when I buy a Shetland pony?

Claire Connor of the Acresdale Prefix has been breeding Shetlands for a decade.

She regularly imports stock from Europe, also selling foals and youngstock to homes in the UK and across the globe. Her ponies have won breed show championships and have also contended HOYS, London International and The Royal International Horse Show under-saddle.

“First and foremost, a Shetland pony needs to have a good temperament, especially if it’s for a child,” Claire says. “No matter how good a quality a pony may be, if it’s not got a level head and trainable willing nature you won’t be able to get the very best out of that pony.”

Alongside this, Claire says it’s important to source a pony from a reputable and knowledgeable breeder who will have ensured the pony has had the best upbringing prior to your acquisition of it: “People might breed or buy a Shetland as they assume they’re funny, cute and small, and while they are, I’ve seen ponies regularly allowed to run riot and perform tricks, such as rearing up at people especially as foals. Once they get into these habits it’s very hard to stop that behaviour and once fully grown can become dangerous.”

Buying from somebody who has given the pony the correct upbringing and education is advised.

“Shetlands, as with any breed, can also have health issues. For example, some ponies can have issues with their mouths. Jaws can be undershot or overshot meaning their teeth do not aline correctly. Even if you’re not wanting to show, a pony with an incorrect mouth could potentially have issues with eating.

“Also look out for incorrect movement and permanent noise in stifle and hock joints. It doesn’t appear to cause pain, but it can cause a pony to move incorrectly and should be avoided if possible.

“Ultimately, the stamp of Shetland you should look for will depend on the job you want the pony to do; If someone is coming to look at a pony I will always ask what job they have in mind. Do you want the pony for a show/ridden role, are you wanting it more as a family pet, or are you wanting to breed from the pony? It is important to look for attributes that would best suit the job in mind. For example Shetland ponies of a heavier stamp with a much shorter back and limb may not be quite as well suited for the ridden show job as your slightly more athletic stamp of Shetland is.

“Many showing people will seek a full-up 42 inch pony, though in my opinion they are overlooking some real quality marginally smaller ponies by having this mindset. Some people become fixated on the height, being willing to compromise on quality in the process; a bit like four white socks are often idealised in the Welsh breeds.”

Where should I buy a Shetland pony from?

There are online sale sites that have Shetland ponies advertised throughout the year.

You can also pursue private sales, or approach breeders, or visit auctions. The official Shetland breed sale is a warranted sale.

“If you are looking for a ready-made child’s pony with miles on the clock, then a private home could be the best option. “If you have the space and inclination, buying a foal is a good idea; you can put your own stamp on it and you will also get a larger variety of choice,” Claire continues. “Breeders are often looking to retain the three or four-year-olds they have run on in their studs, whereas they’re usually more willing to part with some of their best foals that would otherwise have been retained. You can usually get more for your money in the long run by doing this.”

How much should I expect to pay for a pony?

Claire says standard Shetlands are hard to come by these days, which has impacted the market.

“People have stopped breeding as much so there is consequently a huge lack of standard Shetlands, causing the prices to go up,” she says. “On average, you can buy a foal for between £500 and £1500, with the bigger studs often taking less money for one.

“There seems to be less demand for a one or two-year-old, so they’d usually sell for between £1200 and £1800, on average.

“The prices for three and four-year-olds then jump up massively. For a halter broken three-year-old ready to commence education you can be looking for an average of between £2500 and £3500.

“Ridden ponies can also fetch strong money as there is a big market for them; I’ve had ponies that are going under-saddle for sale that I could have sold 40 times over. Shetlands that do a bit of everything, but might not win HOYS, can go for between £8000 and £10,000. At the end of the day, finding the right pony is priceless to some people.”

I’ve agreed to buy a pony, now what?

It is time to organise a pre-purchase vetting, something that is strongly recommended. If the pony is for a child, perhaps asking for a trial period would be sensible, but not all sellers will agree to this.

It’s important to let the vet know prior to the vetting what you intend to use the pony for so they can assess it accordingly. If the pony is for a child, the vet will hopefully keep an eye on the temperament during the assessment, too. Small ponies can be more susceptible to laminitis so ask the vet to consider this risk.

“I would always check teeth, heart, eyes, limbs and stifles,” Claire says. “If you do not feel experienced enough to assess a pony, I do recommend seeking a vetting, even if just a two-stage, or asking for a simple vet check.”

For more information, you can read H&H’s ultimate guide to buying a horse.

You may also be interested in:

How to buy the perfect Welsh section B pony including what to look for and where to start your search

On the hunt for a Welsh section A pony? Then you need to read this first…

Is an Exmoor pony right for you? Tips from a breeder on buying your perfect one

How to buy the perfect Dartmoor pony for either yourself or a child

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

Many children who enjoy riding have caught the bug from one or other of their parents, having grown up with horses around them, or sometimes the parents have caught the bug from their children! Either way, sharing a horse with your child can feel like a great idea, keeping costs down and meaning responsibilities can be shared, especially as children grown into young adults. But before you take the plunge, here are some things you should consider ahead of making the idea a reality.

1. How similar are you and child in terms of size, build and riding ability? A horse (or pony) will need to be an appropriate size, height, age and type for both of you. If there are differences then the horse’s temperament is going to be key, particularly if one party is much smaller, less experienced or more nervous than the other. For sharing a horse with your child to be a success, the horse’s character, personality and ability has got to suit both of you.

2. What are both riders’ ambitions? Is your child wanting to do all the Pony Club teams and bomb around the countryside with their friends while you prefer a sedate hack? Or do you want to be out hunting all winter, while they are happier perfecting their dressage tests in the arena? There may need to be some elements of compromise when looking for a horse that can do quite different jobs for different riders, but decide on what you absolutely can’t compromise on and stick to that when you are looking for your ideal horse to share. An older experienced schoolmaster-type that is looking to step down a level can often be a good choice.

3. Once you’ve found your ideal horse, ensure you have clearly defined responsibilities and roles so you know who is doing what and when. If the child is young or has commitments such as school or college, be realistic about what those roles and responsibilities are.

“Our budget wouldn’t stretch for an older and more experienced pony so we bought a four-year-old mare called Bonnie from a private producer of ponies in Wales, which my daughter, Eleanor, and I share,” explains veterinary physiotherapist Diane Messum. “We share the responsibilities and it works well as I can do more of the riding during term time – especially in the winter with the dark nights – and Eleanor can do more in the holidays.”

4. Sharing saves money! Having one horse between two people is a cheaper option than having one horse each, but parents should still be realistic about the costs involved as they are going to be responsible for the vast majority of them, unless you sharing with your adult son or daughter who is earning a wage and can contribute.

5. There will be times when you have to face difficult decisions and situations when sharing a horse with your child, so you will need to be prepared to help each other out, chip in when needed, bite your tongue at times, and compromise.

“Eleanor and Bonnie are both growing and developing an amazing partnership together, but there are times when Bonnie asks questions and is being a bit testing. Eleanor doesn’t yet have the leg, hand and seat to deal with these situations so I will jump on board and ride Bonnie through it. I know Eleanor sometimes finds this frustrating, but it’s great that we can work through it together and help each other,” says Diane.

6. Most parents will attest that teaching their own children to ride rarely works, even if the parents are very experienced in their own right. In most cases it is better to call on the skills of a professional riding instructor or coach for training. If this individual’s teaching style suits both the parent and child, then it helps avoid causing confusion for the horse, although this is less likely to become a problem with an older more established horse than a younger one.

7. With only one horse there are likely to be times when both riders want to attend different training events, shows, hunts or just go for a ride. This requires an element of compromise, with good organisation to help avoid diary clashes and communication being key.

“One downside to sharing a horse is when we are invited to hack with friends only one of us can go as we only have one horse,” adds Diane.

So, if you still think that sharing a horse with your son or daughter is for you, then we hope that you enjoy the experience and all three of you have a lot of fun along the way.

• Do you have any helpful tips on how to make sharing a horse with your child work? Let us know at hhletters@futurenet.com, including your name, nearest town and county, for the chance to have your thoughts published in a future edition of Horse & Hound magazine

To stay up to date with all the breaking news from major shows throughout the year, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

You may also be interested in:

How much does a horse cost a month? H&H does the maths so you don’t have to…

New horse? Or moving yards? Be prepared with Horse & Hound’s ultimate checklist

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

If you are hoping to buy a Welsh section B pony, this guide with advice from a top breeder should help you start your search for the right one

What is a Welsh section B?

The Welsh section B pony is one of the four Welsh breeds. It is the finer and arguably most athletic of the sections. The section B cannot exceed 13.2hh (137.2cm) in height but you regularly see smaller breed representatives out and about.

According to the Welsh Pony and Cob Association (WPCS): “The general description of ponies in section A of the stud book is applicable to those in section B. But more particularly the section B pony shall be described as a riding pony, with quality, riding action, adequate bone and substance, hardiness and constitution and with pony character.”

They can be described as the more refined and taller version of the section A. The B was developed by breeding mountain ponies with Hackney, Arab and thoroughbred influences.

The section B was added to the stud book in 1931 and the WPCS provides the same breed standard as the section A with the above characteristics:

Head: Small, clean-cut, well set on and tapering to the muzzle

Ears: Well placed, small and pointed, well up on the head, proportionately close

Neck: Lengthy, well carried and moderately lean in the case of mares, but inclined to be cresty in the case of mature stallions

Shoulders: Long and sloping well back. Withers moderately fine, but not “knifey”. The humerus upright so that the foreleg is not set in under the body.

Forelegs: Set square and true, and not tied in at the elbows. Long, strong forearm, well developed knee, short flat bone below knee, pasterns of proportionate slope and length, feet well-shaped and round, hoofs dense.

Back and loins: Muscular, strong and well coupled

Hind quarters: Lengthy and fine. Not ragged or goose-rumped. Tail well set on and carried gaily.

Hind legs: Hocks to be large, flat and clean with points prominent, to turn neither inwards nor outwards. The hind legs not to be too bent. The hock not to be set behind a line from the point of the quarter to the fetlock joint. Pasterns of proportionate slope and length. Feet well-shaped, hooves dense.

They have straighter, more low and long striding movement than the A, C and D sections arguably with a more pointed toe, though they still need to have appropriate hock action from behind.

What should I look for in a Welsh section B?

Hayley Grota runs the successful Cadlan Valley Stud alongside her parents, Howell and Yvonne Davies. Hayley’s daughter, Libby, currently competes the home-bred ponies under-saddle.

Ponies with the Cadlan Valley prefix have won at the Horse of the Year Show (HOYS), Royal International and Olympia.

“Conformation and breed type are the most important things to look for in a quality Welsh section B,” says Hayley. “I like a section B to possess Welsh pony characteristics, too, as well as plenty of substance and limb, two things a lot of ponies have lost over the years, which in turn has meant they’ve lost some of their hardiness.

“Today, a lot of Bs are weak in their hind legs; they move in front but they don’t move from behind. I like a pony to really use itself from the back end. Adding to this, I would never buy a section B that looks like a show pony, unless you intend it for this class; I like a pony with substance, limb and bone.”

What can I do with a Welsh section B?

Welsh section Bs are versatile and they can fare well in multiple jobs due to their athleticism and level temperaments.

Welsh section Bs have their own final at Horse of the Year Show. Sometimes they compete against Welsh section As or against other small breeds.

Many modern section Bs are also successful in plaited showing classes, standing at the top of show hunter pony and plaited working hunter pony line ups at championship level.

Smaller section Bs can make good first ridden ponies, and the breed is also a popular choice for native working hunter classes due to their natural scope and stamp.

“Welsh Bs are highly popular, both in the UK but especially in the USA,” Hayley notes.

Where should I buy a Welsh section B pony from?

There are online sale sites such as Whickr that have Welsh section B ponies advertised throughout the year.

“I advise you to do research into certain bloodlines and types that you like,” Hayley says. “Buying direct from a breeder, especially if you are looking for a youngster, is a good way of sourcing exactly what you want. Do your research and look at the back breeding of certain ponies you like that are out and about on the circuit.

“Usually, good families pass on their temperaments, which is ultimately the most important thing if you’re looking for a ridden pony. For example, if we had a stallion that didn’t have the best attitude we would not use him again.”

How much should I expect to pay?

As with all breeds and types of horses and ponies, the price you will be looking to pay for an animal will depend on your own personal budget, the competition CV of said horse or pony and the level of the sales market at the time.

“A two or three-year-old Welsh section B pony that is nice but that is not going to be a world beater could still fetch anything from between £2,500 to £3,000,” Hayley says. “If you have a youngster that is a bit more special then you’re looking at prices from £5,000 upwards, especially if the pony has done some winning in-hand.

“When it comes to older ponies with competition records they can go for anything over five figures. I have spoken to people who have sold HOYS-level Welsh section B ponies for up to £25,000. I do think breeders will sometimes sell ponies for less money, especially if they know the home is knowledgeable.”

I’ve bought a pony, now what?

It is time to organise a pre-purchase vetting, something that is strongly recommended. If the pony is for a child, perhaps asking for a trial period would be sensible, but not all sellers will agree to this.

It’s important to let the vet know prior to the vetting what you intend to use the pony for so they can assess it accordingly. If you tell the vet that you want the pony for the show ring, they should hopefully inform you of any blemishes or conformational faults which could impact its future career, even if they don’t impact its soundness or performance.

If the pony is for a child, the vet will hopefully keep an eye on the temperament during the assessment, too. Small ponies can be more susceptible to laminitis so ask the vet to consider this risk.

“We have been doing this long enough that we don’t tend to have unbroken ponies vetted as we can look at their teeth and limbs, and we have a friend who is a vet who is always willing to provide advice on certain aspects I might be worried about,” Hayley says. “I know people who have had ponies vetted and something has gone wrong later down the line, and I’ve also known ponies that fail the vet but have gone on to be great with no issues.”

• To stay up to date with all the breaking news from major shows throughout the season, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

You may also be interested in:

From the diminutive Shetland to the spectacular Welsh cob – meet Royal Windsor’s 2025 M&M champions

Native breed experts pinpoint 6 core skills for your pony to be light, forward and responsive in the ring this season

Welsh-bred section B stallion triumphs at Horse of the Year Show in South Africa

Buying a horse: Horse & Hound’s ultimate step-by-step guide

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

If you’re on the hunt for a top-class show horse for this season and beyond, then these tips on how to buy a show hunter could be a good place to start.

What is a show hunter?

Sport Horse Breeding of Great Britain’s definition of a show hunter is “a mare or gelding capable or likely to be capable of carrying its designated weight regularly for a full day’s hunting. It should have substance, quality and a calm, bold temperament. It should have the conformation to produce high performance.”

The British Show Horse Association adds: “It should have the conformation to produce high performance with sustained soundness. It should be alert and when ridden, have four athletic natural paces.”

Show hunters are divided into three weight sections; lightweight, middleweight and heavyweight.

A lightweight should be able to carry up to 12st 7lb, stand around 16-16.2hh and have about eight and a half inches of bone under the knee.

A middleweight hunter stands around 16.3hh, can carry between 12st 7lb and 14st and has around nine inches of bone.

A heavyweight stands around 17hh, has nine to nine and a half inches of bone and is capable of carrying more than 14st.

In addition to the three weight divisions, hunters can contest small hunter classes (horses under 15.2hh), ladies’ hunter classes (to be ridden side-saddle) and working hunter classes, which includes a jumping section.

Show hunters are arguably one of the most competitive classes within showing. The main championships are held at the Royal International (RIHS) and the Horse of the Year Show (HOYS), with separate classes for amateur hunter owners at some shows.

A show hunter is a solid choice for an amateur due to their versatility and ability to compete in multiple disciplines.

What should I look for in a show hunter?

Robert Walker is the circuit’s leading producer of hunters. He has won the Horse of the Year Show (HOYS) hunter championship numerous times, including in 2023 riding MHS Morning Master. He is known for producing young hunters through the ranks.

“Conformationally, he has got to be sound with no faults,” begins Robert, who has also won the prestigious novice hunter accolade at Royal Windsor several times during his career. “I would never buy a horse that is back at the knee or that has a bad foreleg. It’s a big no no for me and I would always walk away from something with this fault.

“Ultimately, the horse needs to have a category to fit into, too. When I’m looking at him I’m asking myself ‘what would he make and where will he end up?’ Will he make a lightweight, middleweight, a heavyweight, or a small? Can I predict his type in some way by looking at his current frame and at the breeding?”

Robert says that ensuring your potential buy has the X-Factor is essential.

“One of the main things we’re also looking for is star appeal. He’s going to be a show horse so this element is vital,” he confirms. “Due to breeding influences over the years the movement of each of the weights has become more similar. There are some heavyweights out on the circuit that have such good steps. Hunter classes are now so competitive that a horse has to move across the floor and go around the ring elegantly, like dancers on a dance floor. Movement sets the best apart from the rest.”

If looking at an older horse with some mileage under its belt, Robert says: “Try to find something that still enjoys the game. It can be hard to find one that has done a few seasons but is still up for the job. Try to assess if the horse will stand up to different types of going, too. We often get sent older horses for hunting as they didn’t like the harder ground you often need to perform on during the summer season. With this in mind, also pay close attention to his joints and joint capsules. Ask yourself if this horse is going to have much longevity.”

What weight or age of hunter should I buy?

It is important to be suitably mounted with a horse of the correct size and stamp for your height and weight. Robert also says that you need to consider your own situation before choosing a stamp or age of horse.

“People have different circumstances,” explains Robert. “If you work full time and have an elderly parent putting your horse in and out, you need something that they are going to be able to cope with. Most young hunters are impressive, strapping animals, so ask yourself if the horse in question will fit in with your lifestyle. Size is irrelevant, really, as it’s more about the temperament and level-headedness of the horse.”

Where shall I buy a hunter from?

Hunters for sale will be advertised at various times in the season on online platforms, as well as being sold via word of mouth.

“When I was a teenager buying a hunter was a much easier process,” says Robert. “Nearly every agricultural show or major fixture like Royal Dublin had an abundance of traditionally-bred young horses that were for sale. Today, there are usually one or two on the market that everyone wants.

“My main advice for buyers is to be open-minded. I’m very fortunate that I have lots of young horses coming through and we have the space to turn them away if necessary. This isn’t practical for everyone and some riders can only have one horse. In this case, don’t be afraid to ask the professionals if they know of a horse for sale.

“At the end of the season we have a few young horses that have had a good education up for sale. It’s not because they aren’t good enough, but we need to make space for the next crop coming through. Ask around and you might be surprised at what you might find.”

How much should I expect to pay for a hunter?

“Everything has gone up in price, including the price of horses,” says Robert. “You might be very lucky and drop onto one that someone wants rid of due to circumstances. But, nearly everyone knows if they’ve got a really good horse. The top horses will always fetch the top money.

“Generally, you can expect to pay anywhere between £25,000 and £40,000 for a top established horse being shown at the highest level. While £10,000 and £15,000 could get you a nice young horse. But they’re all priced differently and if you want a good horse you will need to pay the money; you could buy an old banger, or you could get what you want, but you’ll need to pay!”

What happens when I’ve agreed to buy a horse?

When you have agreed on a sale, it is time to organise a pre-purchase vetting, something that is strongly recommended.

The vet will assess the horse with the specific job you want it for in mind, so it’s important to let the vet know prior to the vetting that your main goal is to compete as a show hunter. If you tell the vet that you want the horse for the show ring, they should hopefully inform you of any blemishes or conformational faults which could impact its future career, even if they don’t impact its soundness or performance.

Robert says: “I appreciate that I have the experience to check a horse over myself, but if you don’t have this knowledge then get a vet involved. I would look around the horse, check how it lands when being trotted up and I would listen to the breathing. If you don’t have this experience then ask around and find a vet you can trust to do the assessment.”

For more information, you can read H&H’s ultimate guide to buying a horse.

• To stay up to date with all the breaking news from major shows throughout the season, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

You may also be interested in:

How can I buy the perfect working hunter?

Looking to buy a show hunter pony? Where to search and exactly what to look for

How to buy the perfect Dartmoor pony for either yourself or a child

How can I buy my perfect Connemara pony?

Expert advice for anyone looking to buy a working hunter pony

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

Want to buy a top-class Dartmoor pony to compete, or one simply to become your family’s best friend? Then these top tips from a breeder will help guide you every step of the way.

What is a Dartmoor pony?

The Dartmoor pony is the British native breed that originated from the county of Devon. The ponies have been recorded living on the moors of Dartmoor since the middle ages, meaning they have developed to be hardy and resilient.

The Dartmoor Pony Society (DPS) represents the pedigree Dartmoor pony and they are known as “the guardian’s of the breed”. In addition to registered Dartmoor ponies, there are many ponies living out on Dartmoor of all sizes and colours, most of unknown breeding. These are known as Dartmoor Hill Ponies.

When it comes to pure-bred Dartmoor ponies, the DPS provides the following breed standard:

Colour: A certain amount of white is acceptable (for example a small sock to fetlock, small star or snip), but excessive white markings (such as a white blaze, stripe and any stockings) are to be discouraged.

Neck and head: The head is small and bloodlike, reasonably short from eye to muzzle and without much tapering to the nose. The ears are small and alert and the eyes fairly large giving the pony a kindly interested expression. It should be well set on a good neck of medium length. The throat and jaws should be fine and showing no signs of coarseness or throatiness. Stallions to have a moderate crest.

Shoulders: Good shoulders are most important. They should be well laid back and sloping, but not too fine at the withers.

Body: Of medium length and strong, well ribbed up with a good depth of girth giving plenty of heart room.

Loin and hindquarters: Strong and well covered with muscle. The hind quarters should be of medium length and neither level nor steeply sloping. The tail is well set up.

Limbs: The forelegs should not be tied in at the knee. The forearm should be muscular and relatively long and the knee fairly large and flat at the front. The cannons should be short with ample good, flat bone. The pasterns should be sloping but not too long. The feet should be hard and well shaped. The hocks should be well let down with plenty of length from hip to hock, clean cut and with plenty of bone below the hock. They should have a strong second thigh. They should not be sickled or cow-hocked.

Movement: Low and straight coming from the shoulder with good hock action but without exaggeration.

Dartmoors are not to exceed 12.2hh (127cm).

They can be bay, brown, black, grey, chestnut, or roan in colour. Piebalds, skewbalds and spotted are not allowed.

The DPS also states that: “The Dartmoor is a very good looking riding pony, sturdily built yet with quality, like a scaled down middleweight hunter. The mane and tail should be full and flowing. The general impression given by a Dartmoor is of a well made, quality pony with ample bone which stands over plenty of ground.”

The Dartmoor Pony Society has a grading system for stallions. Stallions become Premium or Super Premium through the progeny they have sired winning at the society’s star shows.

An increasing amount of part-breds are seen on the circuit and in other disciplines, too, with the Dartmoor adding hardiness, bone, substance and pony characteristics to other breeds.

What should I look for in an Dartmoor pony?

Joyce and Jacky Newbery run the Newoak Dartmoor Stud in Devon. They have bred ponies that have won all over the country, including at Horse of the Year Show (HOYS), the Royal International (RIHS) and the Dartmoor pony breed show.

“Conformation is conformation, irrespective of what type or breed of pony you are looking at,” Jacky begins. “A Dartmoor should be a scaled down middleweight hunter in many ways with good bone, nice short cannons, good feet and a pretty pony head with small ears. Bone is exceptionally important; I would not buy a pony with weak bone.

“Ultimately, we’re looking for a quality pony for the riddens; whether we’re buying a pony or aiming to breed one, it needs to have a job. They must possess a good shoulder where the saddle can clearly sit. Movement wise, a pony should cover the ground and not daisy-cut like a show pony, while also following through with the hocks.

“Also, we’re looking for a pony that has a good temperament.”

What can I do with a Dartmoor pony?

Dartmoor ponies are seen in multiple disciplines and they are very popular show animals, being ridden by small adults and children in the show ring.

They compete and are successful in open, junior, lead rein and first ridden mountain and moorland (M&M) classes and they also feature in working hunter pony classes.

The Dartmoor has its own final at HOYS and otherwise they contend small breeds classes. Dartmoors make good family ponies as they can be shown but can also stand up to other activities such as Pony Club, hunting and jumping.

They are fairly low maintenance to keep, requiring little intervention to live happy and healthy lives, however as with most smaller ponies, buyers should be aware that laminitis can be a risk.

Where should I buy a Dartmoor pony from?

“A lot of buyers come to us as breeders looking for something specific,” says Jacky. “We have a demand for Dartmoors of all ages, from foals to fully grown ponies ready to start their ridden careers.

“While the pages of Horse & Hound and online sales sites can be useful, a lot of good ponies are sold via word of mouth.”

How much should I expect to pay for a Dartmoor?

“A reputable stud with a good track record can expect higher prices for their stock,” says Jacky. “They could sell a foal from around £800 up to £1500. A good pony aged four years old or over and ready to back could be several thousands.

“Ridden prices can vary; I’ve seen ponies go for £5,000, and others go for £20,000 depending on their records and results. Dartmoors can be for anyone, they can easily carry a small adult but they make fantastic children’s ponies if they’ve been educated properly and have been given the best start in life. This is the reason that we don’t usually sell ponies until they are three or four years old.”

What about Dartmoor Hill Ponies?

Dartmoor Hill Ponies or Heritage Ponies cannot be shown in affiliated native ridden or in-hand classes, but this does not mean they don’t have jobs, as Jacky explains: “They are still very versatile ponies, just as much as their pure-bred counterparts. We have several Heritage Dartmoor Ponies in our riding school and they are athletic and intelligent animals who can do many things.”

I’ve agreed to buy a Dartmoor, now what?

It is time to consider a pre-purchase vetting, something that is strongly recommended. If the pony is for a child, perhaps asking for a trial period would be sensible, but not all sellers will agree to this.

It’s important to let the vet know prior to the vetting what you intend to use the pony for so they can assess it accordingly. If you tell the vet that you want the pony for the show ring, they should hopefully inform you of any blemishes or conformational faults which could impact its future career, even if they don’t impact its soundness or performance.

“We are always open to vettings, though we don’t tend to get a lot of people requesting them,” says Jacky. “It’s a personal choice and depends on how much you are paying for a pony, and if you need to obtain one for insurance.”

• To stay up to date with all the breaking news from major shows throughout the season, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

You may also be interested in…

How much does a horse cost a month? H&H does the maths so you don’t have to…

On the hunt for a Welsh section A pony? Then you need to read this first…

Looking to buy a show hunter pony? Where to search and exactly what to look for

How much does it cost to breed a horse? H&H crunches the numbers

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

Want to buy an Exmoor pony? Then this guide on what to look for and where to search is a good place to start.

What is an Exmoor pony?

The Exmoor pony is one of Britain’s oldest breed of native pony. The Exmoor pony is a rare native breed recognised by the Rare Breed Survival Trust and is listed in their watchlist under priority.

The preferred height range of Exmoors is:

• Stallions and geldings can stand up to 12.3hh, from 11.3hh
• Mares can stand up to 12.2hh, 11.2hh

The Exmoor Pony Society (EPS) was founded in 1921.

The EPS states that: “Exmoor ponies are versatile, adaptable, very strong for their size and able to turn their hooves to a wide variety of activities. Historically, the Exmoor pony was used by the hill farmers to undertake all kinds of work from being ridden for shepherding to being used in harness for ploughing, harrowing, taking feed to stock and the farmer’s family to market and church. Ponies from wild herds were gathered and then trained to pull the carts and chariots of the Celtic settlers. The Doomsday book contains the first written evidence of ponies on Exmoor, when it was a designated Royal Forest. Records from the 1500s onwards reveal that the equine population varied in numbers rising to about 1,000 at times. Non-Exmoor mares came to the moor to join the indigenous British Hill Pony type stock but it is thought that the wardens ran native stallions.”

There are approximately 500 breeding mares and 100 licensed, registered stallions in any given period of five years producing between 100-150 foals per year.

Foals are bred into the free-living herds on Exmoor – the home of the Exmoor pony – and also in in-ground and free-living situations throughout the UK, Europe and North America.

All Exmoor pony foals are inspected each year and registered into Section 1 or Section X of the EPS studbook in accordance with EU/DEFRA legislation and the Rules of the EPS.

Each herd is assigned a number and then each foal is assigned a number in that herd – this makes up the registration number for the pony.

The EPS provides the following breed standard:

• General appearance: Definite “pony” character; hard and strong; vigorous and alert and symmetrical in appearance; mealy muzzle; prominent hooded toad eye
• Head and neck: ears short, thick and pointed; clean cut face; wide forehead, eyes large, wide apart & prominent with well defined fleshy hood and pale colouration outlining the eyes (Toad Eyes); wide nostrils; mealy muzzle; clean throat; good length of rein.
• Shoulders: clean, fine at top, well laid back.
• Chest: deep and wide between and behind forelegs; Ribs long, deep, well sprung and wide apart.
• Back: level; broad and level across loins; tail neatly set in.
• Legs: clean & short, with neat uniformly dark hoof walls; forelegs straight, well apart and squarely set; hind legs well apart, nearly perpendicular from hock to fetlock with point of hock in line with pelvis bone; wide curve from flank to hock joint; legs free in motion with no tendency to sweep or turn.
• Action: straight and smooth, without exaggerated action.
• Coat: summer – close, hard and bright. Winter – a double-layered dense coat with an under insulating layer of fine, springy hair and an outer waterproofing layer of hard, greasy hair.
• Colour: bay, brown or dun, with black points; mealy colour on muzzle, round eyes and inside flanks; no white markings anywhere.
• Quality: alert expression and general poise indicating balance and symmetry of movement; flat clean bone.

What should I look for in an Exmoor?

Jackie Webb has been breeding Exmoor ponies under the Blackthorn prefix since 1978. She is also on a number of judging panels, including NPS and BSPS, and Exmoor, Connemara and New Forest breed society panels.

Influential Exmoor stallions she has owned or bred include Dunkery Buzzard, Blackthorn Hawkwind, Siskin and Blackthorn Sea Poacher. Siskin was a three-time Horse of the Year Show (HOYS) in-hand finalist, and Sea Poacher qualified for HOYS numerous times, including with Laura Collett who campaigned him in working hunter classes. Blackthorn Poldark won at Hickstead in 2023 with Jess Talbot, and Blackthorn Blush Rose won at HOYS twice with Katy Marriott-Payne.

“The pony has to shout Exmoor at you, which most of them do,” says Jackie. “An Exmoor is usually instantly recognisable.

“An Exmoor should be a well-made pony with good limbs and bone. It must move, too, and these days many good ridden ponies do have movement and are able to be schooled similarly to the other breeds you see out and about on the circuit. Once upon a time, not many people showed Exmoors, but they are increasingly popular, which has been positive for the breed.

“Mealy markings are important. I liked a well-marked pony, with obvious mealy markings. Darker ponies don’t have obvious markings and at certain times in the year they can lose their markings completely, especially if they are rugged during show season.

“A good Exmoor should have a bold eye and small pony ears.

“Our breeding stock should be as good quality as ridden ponies, however you arguably might want a pony with more scope for the ridden job.”

What can I do with an Exmoor?

Exmoors are a versatile breed and they can usually perform in multiple disciplines. They are hardy and tough, and they are often brave and nimble. They are a good choice as a working family pony as they can live out and require little maintenance.

Due to their stamp and size, Exmoors make ideal mounts for small adults as well as capable children.

Exmoors contend small breeds M&M ridden classes and they jump in either 122cm or 133cm working hunter pony classes. Many Exmoors jump well and the breed is also increasingly visible in the mini circuit, with representatives contending both lead rein and first ridden classes with success.

If I buy an Exmoor, will it suit me?

It depends on the pony, and your riding abilities as well as what you wish to do with your pony.

Exmoors are known for being a quirky breed that isn’t suitable for everyone, however Jackie says it’s very much a case of horses for courses: “They are known for their quirks, but they are usually highly intelligent which makes them not suitable for everyone. They’re always one step ahead of you, and people can mistake that for them being stubborn.

“Today, you see lots of Exmoor contending first ridden and lead rein classes, so it depends on the temperament of the individual pony. It depends on how they are educated, too. If you get a pony that is wild from the moor, then he will take a lot more work to get going compared to a pony that has been handled from the off.”

Where should I buy an Exmoor pony from?

“If you want to buy an Exmoor for the ridden job, then I’d suggest taking your time to go to multiple breeders and have a real good look around,” Jackie advises. “The more ponies you can look at the better; this helps you get your eye in.

“If you’re wanting a foal and are happy to wait for it to mature and grow, you can go to the breeders who run ponies on the moor. There really isn’t anything more rewarding than bringing one up yourself. But, if you’re looking for an older pony to bring on sooner than I suggest going to the up-country breeders as these ponies have usually been handled more. Be aware of your own capabilities as not everyone has the experience to bring on a wild Exmoor foal!”

How much should I expect to pay for an Exmoor?

Like all native breeds, Exmoors vary in price depending on temperament, age, competition record and other factors.

“There are cheap ponies around, but, like in any breed, the better ridden ponies are fetching higher prices,” says Jackie. “These days, a good foal can easily make between £500 to £1000.”

I’ve agreed to buy an Exmoor pony, now what?

It is time to organise a pre-purchase vetting, something that is strongly recommended. If the pony is for a child, perhaps asking for a trial period would be sensible, but not all sellers will agree to this.

It’s important to let the vet know prior to the vetting what you intend to use the pony for so they can assess it accordingly.

If you tell the vet that you want the pony for the show ring, they should hopefully inform you of any blemishes or conformational faults which could impact its future career, even if they don’t impact its soundness or performance.

Do note that if you are buying an Exmoor off the hill, it will be unlikely that you will have the pony vetted as it could have had little handling.

“It depends on what you are paying for an Exmoor, too,” says Jackie. “But for peace of mind you could always get an older pony checked over by the vet.”

For more information, you can read H&H’s ultimate guide to buying a horse.

• To stay up to date with all the breaking news from major shows throughout the season, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

You may also be interested in:

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

How can I buy my perfect Connemara pony?

On the hunt for a Welsh section A pony? Then you need to read this first…

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

Questions have been raised over the laws that apply in buying and selling horses – and whether sellers get the raw end of the deal.

An equine lawyer has told H&H about frustrations from horse traders who believe buyers are using the Consumer Rights Act as a means to return a horse and absolve responsibility for, rather than working through, any issues that may have occurred while a horse is settling into its new home.

Horses are considered “goods” under UK consumer law, and the act states that, as with other goods, a horse sold by a trader to an individual must be fit for its intended purposes, of satisfactory quality and as described. If a horse is not fit for purpose, the buyer has a right to reject it and receive a refund within 30 days.

Hannah Bradley, of Aria Grace Equine Law, told H&H that the law is broadly drafted to suit inanimate objects and although there needs to be protection for buyers who are often investing material sums of money, the reality is that the Consumer Rights Act can “create an uphill burden for professional sellers of horses”.

“The act provides buyers with 30 days to reject goods that are not satisfactory – and having that 30-day limit can create an incentive not to work through any issues and to allow the horse an adjusting period” she said.

“After you go past the 30-day period you are entitled to a repair or replacement. But clearly the terms ‘repair or replacement’ are unsuitable to the sale of horses, in that a trader is unlikely to have a like-for-like replacement. If the repair or replacement is not possible, there exists a final right to receive a refund”.

Ms Bradley said professional sellers should be aware of consumer law, and although this cannot be changed, she recommends they keep evidence to support themselves should issues arise after the sale.

She also recommends having transparent conversations about buyers’ capabilities and experience.

“In these situations the buyer is starting with an advantage in terms of how the law is drafted, but it can be useful for the seller to have evidence should an issue arise,” she said.

“Disclose any quirks or veterinary history in writing and keep a diary of what’s going on with the horses while they are with you. When they are leaving your care, take videos and photos of the horse; around the body, in-hand trotting up, and any lumps or bumps. Things can happen in transit and during the settling-in period, so it’s helpful to have an evidence trail.”

Horse trader Shelley Barrington of Trina’s Cobs told H&H she believes the 30-day timeframe under the Consumer Rights Act sets an unrealistic window for a horse to adapt to its new surroundings.

“If someone is having issues they always get in touch within 30 days. It’s because they are under a timeframe, and more often than not it’s a case of the horse hasn’t settled. If it’s not a settling issue, it’s usually a management problem,” she said.

“In these cases we would give as much advice as possible, recommend that they get a professional on board to help if they are struggling, and eight times out of 10, it works out.”

Ms Barrington added that horses can be labelled as “bad or dangerous”, when all they needed was time.

“People can be so desperate to get a refund that they blame the horse, rather than being honest. If a horse is returned as ‘dangerous’ it develops a bad reputation, when it’s not the case,” she said, adding that buyers need to be honest about their abilities.

“Riding lessons are expensive, so more novice or nervous riders instead are buying cheaper horses. They maybe don’t have the confidence or experience, so if the horse is a little unsettled they’re scared to do anything and just put it in the field, and it just gets worse.”

British Horse Society director of horse care and welfare Gemma Stanford told H&H buying a horse should never be rushed and it is a process that needs “thorough research and consideration of both the horse’s needs and the buyer’s circumstances”.

“It is important to ask detailed questions and take time to ensure the horse is the right fit,” she said, adding that buyers should take a coach to the viewing, and have a pre-purchase examination carried out.

“The use of a clear sale contract is vital to avoid disputes, and the principle of ‘buyer beware’ remains highly relevant. If disputes arise post-purchase, we recommend seeking professional legal advice.”

• To stay up to date with all the breaking news from major shows throughout 2025, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

You may also be interested in:

Court case over £21,000 deposit highlights need for contracts in horse sales

How to protect yourself when buying or selling horses: legal experts share helpful advice

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

If you’re on the hunt for new star for the show ring, then this guide on how to buy a riding horse is a good place to start.

What is a riding horse?

A riding horse is often defined as a type of show horse that fits between a hunter and a hack.

Riding horses fit into two height classes, large and small.

• Small riding horse — mare or gelding, four years old or over, exceeding 148cm and not exceeding 158cm
• Large riding horse — mare or gelding, four years old or over, exceeding 158cm

According to the British Show Horse Association (BSHA) the riding horse should have quality, substance, good bone, correct conformation, presence and true action.

There are riding horse classes held at most shows across the country. The two most prestigious riding horse titles to win are the riding horse of the year championship at Horse of the Year Show (HOYS) and the riding horse supreme at the Royal International (RIHS). At unaffiliated shows, large and small riding horses may be shown together in a single class.

During the class, riding horses perform on the go-round before they are assessed by a ride judge and a conformation judge.

Turnout wise, riding horses are shown trimmed with a plaited mane. Riding horses are shown with a coloured browband and the rider should wear a tweed jacket. Spurs should be worn by adults.

What should I look for in a riding horse?

Riding horses are the type between a hack and a hunter. Vicky Smith is a leading show horse producer from Cheshire. She has ridden multiple top riding horses, including the 2023 Royal Windsor and Great Yorkshire champion Royal Illusion.

She says that if you’re looking at a young prospect, you need to be mindful about its height.

“Always be aware of the height restrictions on each of the classes,” Vicky says. “Look at a horse and ask yourself what class it will fit in. These days, a lot of people buy unseen. There is always a risk, especially if you’re buying a youngster, say a three-year-old, that it will be too big for the small class, but too small for the large class.

“In terms of movement, a riding horse needs three really quality paces. They have to move well in trot but be comfortable in the canter when the ride judge gets on. Ultimately, they are going to be judged heavily on their ride once they get into the ring. They should be forward, and cover the ground, but also be mannerly and balanced.

“Type wise, I like a riding horse with good, flat bone, but with plenty of limb and substance. They need a substantial body and be in proportion. A small should be compact and butty with good depth, and a large can be a scopier in body. Riding horses do bridge the gap between a hack and a hunter, which is arguably why there is so much variation in type, probably the biggest you will see across the show horse classes.”

What else can I do with a riding horse?

Many riding horse types can do other jobs. The type of horse that fits into the riding horse category is likely to be scopey and athletic, but also substantial enough to jump, hunt or be a versatile all-rounder. Their movement might also make them a good choice for the dressage arena.

“A riding horse is the ideal type for an amateur who wants to do a bit of everything,” Vicky says. “As well as disciplines outside of showing, they can contend other showing classes, too, such as working show horse classes and intermediates if the rider is of the correct age.

“There are so many opportunities out there; from the new classes at London International, to the Search For A Star finals held at HOYS. If I were a young amateur looking to get into showing but also hoping to do other things, a small riding horse would be my first choice. They’re not as heavy and big as a hunter, but they’re usually not too fine for activities such as jumping and hunting.”

Where should I buy a riding horse from?

Riding horses for sale will be advertised at various times in the season on online platforms, including with Horse & Hound, powered by Whickr.

“It’s worth looking at online sites, but also asking professionals who produce riding horses,” Vicky says. “Riding horses are a type you can also stumble across by chance on all-rounder for sale pages. You can see low level all-rounders that, with a bit of fine tuning, could turn into good riding horses. The type isn’t quite as specific as a hack or a hunter, so they can be discovered if you have the right eye for one and have the confidence to take a chance on it.”

How do I know if the horse is for me?

Ultimately, only you know which horse is the right fit for you, and you should ask yourself a few questions before you agree on a sale. It is strongly advised that you go and view a horse prior to buying it. If the horse is broken in, you should ride the horse, ask to hack it out and see it in various situations, if possible.

If you are looking to keep the horse at home instead of on a production yard, you will need to figure out if it will fit into your routine. Show horses are athletes, many requiring careful training and production to ensure they perform at their best in the ring.

How much should I pay for a riding horse?

As Vicky suggests, as riding horse types can sometimes be advertised under a different guise, you might be able to grab a bargain: “I’ve stumbled across nice horses that have never done anything in the show ring, but that are of a nice type and they’ve just never been considered as a show horse, for about the £5,000 mark. On the other hand, there are beautiful young riding horses of the future going for strong money; it depends if you can find that diamond in the rough.”

What happens when I’ve agreed to buy a riding horse?

When you have found the right horse for you, then it’s time to arrange a pre-purchase vetting, something that is strongly recommended.

The vet will assess the horse with the specific job you want it for in mind, so it’s important to let the vet know prior to the vetting that your main goal is to compete it in the show ring as a riding horse. As you want the horse for showing, the vet should pay close attention to any conformational faults which could impact its future career, even if they don’t impact soundness or performance. Show horses should be clean limbed and have no blemishes either.

“I would always recommend a vetting, for insurance purposes,” says Vicky. “But remember, horses look different on different days. A horse doesn’t have to be perfect, but it’s always good to get the vet to look so you’re aware of anything wrong. The main things to check are the heart and eyes, and I would always get X-rays to ensure the structure of the horse is correct and sound.”

For more information, you can read H&H’s ultimate guide to buying a horse.

• To stay up to date with all the breaking news from major shows throughout the year, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

You may also be interested in:

Looking to buy a show hunter pony? Where to search and exactly what to look for

On the hunt for a Welsh section A pony? Then you need to read this first…

How can I buy my perfect Connemara pony?

How can I buy the perfect working hunter?

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

Looking to buy a Welsh section A pony for yourself or for a child? Then this guide is sure to help you on your search…

What is a Welsh section A?

The Welsh section A or Welsh Mountain Pony is the smallest of the four Welsh breeds. It is a popular choice for both children and small adults.

The Welsh section A should not exceed 12hh (121.9cm). They can be any colour, except for piebald and skewbald. They can have a variety of white markings on their legs and face.

The Welsh Pony and Cob Society provides the following breed description:

Head: small, clean-cut, well set on and tapering to the muzzle

Ears: well placed, small and pointed, well up on the head, proportionately close

Neck: lengthy, well carried and moderately lean in the case of mares, but inclined to be cresty in the case of mature stallions

Shoulders: Long and sloping well back. Withers moderately fine, but not “knifey”. The humerus upright so that the foreleg is not set in under the body.

Forelegs: set square and true, and not tied in at the elbows. Long, strong forearm, well developed knee, short flat bone below knee, pasterns of proportionate slope and length, feet well-shaped and round, hoofs dense.

Back and Loins: muscular, strong and well coupled

Hind Quarters: lengthy and fine. Not ragged or goose-rumped. Tail well set on and carried gaily.

Hind Legs: hocks to be large, flat and clean with points prominent, to turn neither inwards nor outwards. The hind legs not to be too bent. The hock not to be set behind a line from the point of the quarter to the fetlock joint. Pasterns of proportionate slope and length. Feet well-shaped, hoofs dense.

Mandy Burchell Small is a leading breeder of Welsh section A ponies. She runs the Rowfantina Stud and ponies donning her prefix have won both Horse of the Year Show (HOYS) and the Royal International.

“I like a four-square pony with a nice outlook,” Mandy explains. “A Welsh section A should have pony characteristics, with a nice big eye, a well-set front and a nice length of rein. A nice shaped head is a distinguishable feature of a Welsh pony. If you’re looking for a pony to do ridden work with then the neck set is important; the neck shouldn’t come out too low. A pony should have a good turn of front, too, which means that it should be easier to train as it finds things easier. I also like good, short, flat bone, and I would avoid a pony with appley joints. I don’t like narrow ponies either.

“If you’re buying a ridden pony the most important thing is where the saddle is going to sit. Welsh ponies are often bred to be so short coupled that there isn’t a wither for the saddle to sit behind. The saddle shouldn’t sit at the base of the neck, so a pony with a good front is essential.”

Mandy also explains that type will differ if you’re looking for a pony for a child, compared to if you’re searching for an adult’s ride.

“An open pony would be rangier and it would have bigger movement; the bigger the moment the better,” she says. “A lead rein or a first ridden should be a pretty mover, as an enormous stride could push the child out of the saddle. Whatever job you’re looking for, whether for in-hand, ridden or something else, a pony should be balanced and straight. If you’re buying a youngster, watching a pony loose in the field will show you if it has this natural balance.”

What can I do with a Welsh section A?

The Welsh section A pony is a popular child’s ride both in and out of the show ring, and the breed also fares well in working hunter ranks, on the Pony Club scene and in other disciplines.

The Welsh section A can contend many showing classes; lead rein, first ridden, junior ridden M&M and open ridden M&M. Some shows hold separate classes for Welsh section As, though sometimes they will compete against their larger relative, the Welsh section B, and sometimes they will contend mixed small breed classes.

Welsh section As jump in the 122cm M&M working hunter pony height section.

Aside from showing, Welsh section As have faired well in driving and in Pony Club games, due to their natural athleticism, turn of speed and nimbleness.

The showing of Welsh section As in-hand is also popular.

“Whatever job, the temperament is key,” Mandy says. “But you can’t always tell this until you start working with a pony. We’ve had ponies that have been exceptionally shy and timid at the beginning, but have gone on to be great at their jobs in the end. If can be difficult to judge temperament, but with children’s ponies it’s particularly important. If you have a charming pony with a good brain it can go a very long way.”

What about a part-bred?

Welsh part-breds are popular, with many being shown in show hunter pony and working hunter pony classes. The Welsh section A can add bone, hardiness and Welsh spirit to the riding pony to produce a child’s pony that can do multiple jobs.

Where should I buy a Welsh section A pony from?

There are online horses for sale sites that have Welsh section A ponies advertised throughout the year.

“While less people are breeding, you can still find some super ponies at studs,” adds Mandy. “Social media is a great way to find contacts and breeders who have ponies for sale.”

The annual Welsh Pony and Cob Society sales take place in October. You can find a range of ponies, from foals to established ridden ponies, being sold via auction.

“The sales are a great place to go, though the prices can vary,” Mandy says. “Ponies can go for a lot of money based on something like colour, and sometimes there’s no rhyme or reason for the prices.”

Prices in the private market vary, too, as Mandy says: “There have been some very expensive ponies sold, but there are have also been some ponies sold for very little that have gone onto be HOYS animals. I think you have to base your decisions on your own personal budget and the state of the market at the time.”

I’ve bought a pony, now what?

It is time to organise a pre-purchase vetting, something that is strongly recommended. If the pony is for a child, perhaps asking for a trial period would be sensible, but not all sellers will agree to this.

It’s important to let the vet know prior to the vetting what you intend to use the pony for so they can assess it accordingly. If you tell the vet that you want the pony for the show ring, they should hopefully inform you of any blemishes or conformational faults which could impact its future career, even if they don’t impact its soundness or performance.

If the pony is for a child, the vet will hopefully keep an eye on the temperament during the assessment, too. Small ponies can be more susceptible to laminitis so ask the vet to consider this risk.

For more information, you can read H&H’s ultimate guide to buying a horse.

• To stay up to date with all the breaking news from major shows throughout 2025, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

You may also be interested in:

How to buy a dressage horse: top riders’ tips

H&H asks top riders and producers what they look for when buying a new dressage horse

How can I buy my perfect Connemara pony?

Buying a horse at an elite sale or auction: H&H explains all you need to know

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

If you’re looking for tips on how to buy a Connemara pony then this guide on what to look for, where to shop and how much you should expect to spend will help you on your search.

What is a Connemara pony?

The Connemara is one of the most popular native breeds due to its versatility, athleticism, level temperament and willingness to work. The breed originates from County Galway in Ireland.

The breed is now hugely popular in Ireland, Britain, North America, across Europe, Australia, New Zealand, and South Africa.

The preferred height for a Connemara pony is between 128cm and 148cm, and you cannot show a pony that exceeds 148cm in affiliated mountain and moorland classes. Though, over-height Connemaras are in high demand in disciplines such as eventing and showjumping. Similarly, the part-bred Connemara is sought after and commands a high price as it can turn its hoof to many activities and do several jobs.

Connemaras can be of the following colour; grey, black, bay, brown, dun, with occasional roan, chestnut, palomino, dark- and blue-eyed cream

According to the British Connemara Pony Society (BCPS), the breed Connemara pony should be “compact, well balanced riding type with depth, substance and good heart room. Standing on short legs covering a lot of ground. It should have a good temperament, hardiness and staying power, intelligence, soundness, surefootedness, jumping ability, suitable for child or adult.”

What should I look for when looking to buy a Connemara pony?

The BPCS provides the following breed standard to be used as a guide when conformationally assessing a Connemara pony:

Head: well-balanced pony head of medium length with good width between large kindly eyes. Pony ears, well-defined cheekbone, jaw relatively deep but not coarse.

Front: head well set on to neck. Crest should not be over-developed. Neck not set on too low. Well laid-back shoulder giving a good length of rein.

Body: body should be deep, with strong back, some length permissible but should be well ribbed up and with strong loins.

Limbs: good length and strength in forearm, well-defined knees and short cannons with flat bone measuring 18–21cm. Elbows should be free. Pasterns of medium length, feet well shaped of medium size, hard and level.

Hind-quarters: strong and muscular with some length, well developed second thighs (gaskin) and strong low-set hocks.

Movement: movement free, easy and true, without undue knee action, but active and covering the ground.

Kerry Wainwright’s Skellorn Stud has produced several champion Connemaras of the show ring, including multi-garlanded ridden and in-hand stallion Skellorn Harrison, now 22, and his son, former Horse of the Year Show (HOYS) Connemara pony of the year Skellorn Deja Vu.

For Kerry, a good Connemara, no matter whether they are a native type or a sportier sort, should first and foremost have good limbs and conformation: “Start from the bottom up,” Kerry says, when she chatted to H&H in 2022. “Good, strong hindquarters are essential as that’s the engine of the pony. I also like a nice topline, shoulder and neck, too, as these indicate it will carry a saddle and ultimately have a job to do. A nice walk and good movement is also key from the performance aspect.”

Vanessa Clark has produced and shown Connemaras to top level for many years. Her mare Skaergaardens Delicious Love won the HOYS in-hand supreme final in 2022.

“The movement is the first thing that stands out, whether I am judging or looking for a pony to buy,” Vanessa says. “I like something that can open the shoulder and that can use itself, and I also want a pony to move from behind, really bringing the hocks forward. It’s so important to have that power coming from the back end. As I’m usually buying for top-end showing, I want a pony that immediately catches your eye, too.

“A pony being four-square is important, but it’s hard to find something with a good foreleg on it these days. I like symmetry all the way down into the hoof. Today, you do see a lot of Connies that are back at the knee, a big no-no for me. I also don’t like to see upright pasterns, or something that lacks limb or bone. I like a pony with a good front, and a nice deep body for the saddle. I would also be looking for pony characteristics to shine through.”

Is the Connemara pony right for me?

“The Connemara cross has become increasingly popular in grassroots eventing,” Nicola Baguley, who owned Connemara stallion Glencarrig Dolphin when she spoke to H&H back in 2022. “There’s a pyramid of riders and the grassroots people make up the base of it. I could have sold cross-bred youngsters 10 times over as there’s a demand for quality horses with nice, trainable temperaments as well as that all-important get-up-and-go which Connie blood adds. They’re also a popular choice for children coming off ponies, as they are more forgiving and have the ability to sort themselves out.”

“One of the key drivers of the increase in demand is that more people are opting just to have one pony in the family for a lifetime,” explains Kerry. “They want a pony which the mother can hack out during the week and the daughter can compete on the weekends, but that also won’t be outgrown; a proper, solid Connie will carry a lot of people for a long time and as it’s a native breed they’re relatively low maintenance while still being a performance animal.”

Vanessa adds: “Connies are very intelligent, and many people can underestimate them. You do have to get on with a Connemara, otherwise you are wasting your time. When you’re getting to know one you have to bend over backwards for them a little bit until you form a bond. If you can build that trust and bond, though, a Connie will move the earth for you. You won’t find a better pony, if you have that important connection.”

What about part-bred Connemaras?

Part-bred Connemara ponies and horses are also exceptionally popular in multiple disciplines. If you’re seeking a performance animal with temperament, talent and hardiness then a part-bred Connemara could be the way to go.

Debbie and Charlie Handley of the Wellbury Park Stud introduced the Connemara to their breeding programme for the level-headedness they bring to the crosses.

Debbie began her breeding journey with an Irish Draught stallion who was put to thoroughbred mares to produce event horses.

“I’ve always liked Irish crosses and the Connemara is renowned for being a good all-rounder,” explains Debbie, when she spoke to H&H in 2022. “We’ve crossed our stallions with all sorts and bred some very nice stuff,” Debbie adds. “The Connie puts bone onto the foals, but they tend to be more athletic than a pure-bred. They also bring a nice temperament to the mix which is what I aim for over anything else. The demand for Connie crosses is so high that we now sell our youngsters as foals; the money we can ask for them means it isn’t worth keeping them until they’re four-year-olds. The spectrum of people that Connemaras suits is so broad.”

How much should I pay for a Connemara pony?

“It really does depend on a few factors, but gone are the days of being able to buy a just backed Connie for around the £3000 mark,” Vanessa says. “Some of the most in demand types are the eventing and Pony Club types that will also do workers. An all-rounder that does everything with little to no fuss can go for anywhere around £20,000, as would a nice novice with HOYS potential.

“If you’re buying out of the field it’s obviously less, but colts and fillies with good breeding are definitely holding their value. And over height Connemaras are very popular and are also fetching a lot of money.”

Where should I buy a Connemara pony from?

There are several places to purchase a Connemara pony from. You can buy privately or from one of the many long-standing breeders located in either Ireland or England.

You can find current ponies for sale on online sites, such as Whickr.

Alternatively, you could attend one of the breed sales in Ireland. In Clifden, known as the heart of Connemara, there is a Connemara Pony Sale held several times per year. The sale offers ponies at different stages of training, from unbroken youngsters to those that are ready to start competing.

If you are based in England, you will need to consider that you will need to arrange an equine transporter to safely transport your new purchase over the water and back home.

“A lot of people go to Ireland which is understandable,” Vanessa says. “Connemara is the most beautiful place and it’s a real experience. I’ve been there many times and it’s brilliant. Irish ponies do have the bone, too. But, as the cost of getting a pony back over to the UK has risen so much I would always encourage people to have a look around locally, too.

“See what’s on your doorstep; there are some lovely ponies who have been well produced. Ireland will always be there and it’s handy to go for a visit to get your eye in anyway.

“If you see something you like out and about on the circuit, don’t wait for an advert to go online. You could approach the owner and see if they might be open to a sale.”

What happens when I’ve agreed to buy a Connemara pony?

When you have agreed on a sale, it is time to organise a pre-purchase vetting, something that is strongly recommended. If the pony is for a child, perhaps asking for a trial period would be sensible, but not all sellers wish to let their animals go out on trial, so don’t be surprised if this request is turned down.

It’s important to let the vet know prior to the vetting what you intend to use the pony for and who the rider will be. If you want the pony for showing, ask the vet to inform you of any blemishes or conformational faults even if they don’t impact the pony’s soundness or performance.

For more information, you can read H&H’s ultimate guide to buying a horse. 

• To stay up to date with all the breaking news from major shows throughout the year, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

You may also be interested in:

How can I buy the perfect working hunter?

Looking to buy a show hunter pony? Where to search and exactly what to look for

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

If you’re hoping to jump in the show ring next season and beyond but don’t currently have the ride to do so, then this guide on how to buy a working hunter is a good place to start.

What is a working hunter class?

Working hunter classes are one of the most popular sections within showing with both competitors and spectators alike. A working hunter class is judged in three phases, the first being a jump round over a course of rustic fences. The style and performance mark from this phase is then added to the points given by the ride judge for the ride, and the points accumulated in the conformation phase. While the jump phase is worth 60% of the final score, horses must be conformationally correct as well as comfortable, mannerly and balanced in the ride to score highly when the judge gets on board. The combination with the highest final score wins the class.

There are different levels of working hunter classes, ranging from unaffiliated to national finals found at the two major showing championships, Horse of the Year Show (HOYS) and the Royal International (RIHS). The quality, scope and price of the working hunters you will be looking at on your search will be dependent on the level you are hoping to compete at.

If you are aiming to ride at the highest level, then a former successful show hunter with a jump might be a better option for you. If you are looking to compete on the local show circuit, you could prioritise jump over conformation and show quality, as long as the horse is still to hunter type and is sound, fit and honest.

It’s important to note that in working hunter classes that are affiliated to the main horse societies, Sports Horse Breeding of Great Britain and the British Show Horse Association, any horse that is ranked as a grade A showjumper or advanced event horse is not eligible to compete.

What type of working hunter should I buy?

The exact type of working hunter you will be looking to buy will largely be down to personal preference, however there are a few key elements that should be considered irrespective of type. In brief, a working hunter should be a show hunter with a jump.

“Everyone has their own ideal horse, and my idea of the perfect top-class worker might not be the same as the next person,” confirms leading working hunter producer Kelly Ward of Noble Sports Horses. “While a lot of it comes down to personal preference, any working hunter should be conformationally correct and should be a nice quality show horse, not just a jumping horse dressed up to go into the ring. I don’t agree with those who assume a jumper will be a successful worker just because it will jump the course; it also needs to be a good stamp of a show horse.”

Horses usually compete together or in separate lightweight and heavyweight sections, so ideally you will know what section the horse will jump in depending on how much weight the horse can carry, identifiable by the amount of bone, substance and body said horse has.

Katrina Braithwaite is a leading working hunter competitor who has won the RIHS on several occasions.

“Personally, I like working hunters to have at least 50% Irish Draught breeding in them as I find it gives them a more trainable temperament and a level head,” says Katrina. “As I am the driver, rider, trainer and groom, I need something that is relatively easy to work with. Plus, when you get to the big county shows a horse needs to be able to cope with the atmosphere, so temperament is very important.”

What height of working hunter should I buy?

When it comes to height of the horse, this will first and foremost depend on the size and build of the rider. According to the BSHA and SHB (GB) rule books, working hunters must exceed 148cm (14.2hh) and there is no maximum height.

Kelly says that when it comes to talent and scope you shouldn’t just assume that bigger is better. Good working hunters come in all shapes and sizes.

“The 2023 HOYS working hunter champion (Bellvue Tomboy) is just a little 15.2hh horse,” she says. “While you might not bill a smaller horse as an ideal worker, many of them are powerful jumpers who are capable of taking on the height and doing the job, so don’t write them off.”

What should I look for when buying a working hunter?

It will largely depend on if you are hoping to purchase a young prospect or a horse which already has experience in the ring. When buying a younger horse which doesn’t have established form, you can look at the breeding to assess if it has a pedigree which lends itself to jumping. Assessing the horse’s conformation and paces, as well as its talent over a fence while loose in the arena, can go someway in assessing if the horse has a future in a certain sphere, though it can still be a gamble as each animal is an individual with unique talent.

When looking at older horses there are many factors to consider, as Kelly explains.

“As well as looking at the horse’s form, take into account the rider who has been competing it previously. You have to be realistic and ask yourself if you have the same abilities as the former rider. Perhaps the rider kept the horse in a certain way that you might not be able to replicate as it does not fit into your own routine and lifestyle, especially if you’re keeping the horse at home and fitting it into a busy life. Working hunters can take a lot of production so ensure you’re being realistic. Ultimately, you need to make sure you can ride the horse, so do your homework.”

Katrina adds: “Of course, they have to have scope and jump, and they have to move. Today, a working hunter has to have everything, including that look-at-me quality. Otherwise, you’re never going to get that top pull in a class of 20-odd horses.”

What about blemishes and injuries?

“When looking from the ground up, I ensure the horse has good feet and a good amount limb,” Katrina says. “If a working hunter had a genuine blemish that wasn’t upsetting to the eye, such as an old overreach scar or a tiny mark on the limb, I would not write it off. After all, they are working horses. I wouldn’t buy a horse with a conformation fault, or a horse that had sustained a horrific injury in earlier in life. But, a superficial blemish that does not affect the horse in anyway is passable.”

Where should I buy a working hunter from?

Working hunters for sale will be advertised at various times in the season on online platforms, but they are also often sold via word of mouth.

“Sometimes, the harder you look for the perfect horse, the less chance you have of finding it,” Kelly says. “Lots of people discover their next horses while out and about on the circuit and if you have the budget to do so, it can be easier to approach the owner of a horse you like to start a discussion about a potential sale. A lot of people will sell their horses for the right price, especially if they are professionals who are well-known for producing horses through the ranks.”

Katrina adds: “A lot of my horses have come from someone I trust via word of mouth. I have bought horses unseen before, but it’s always been from someone I have complete confidence in, so I’m not buying completely blind. Have an ask around, too; the horsey world is small and someone will probably know of the horse or the seller.”

How do I know if the horse is for me?

Ultimately, only you know which horse is the right fit for you, and you should ask yourself a few questions before you agree on a sale.

“It’s vital that you keep the horse within a reasonable distance from your home so you can build a strong partnership with it,” Katrina says. “You will need to make sure you spend time getting to know each other, as you have to have an exceptional amount of trust in each other when coming into some of these fences.

“You don’t necessarily need an arena. You can bond and school while out hacking, and when the season is approaching you will need to get out and about to arena hires. Ask yourself is you’re committed enough to the process.”

How much should I pay for a working hunter?

Budget is hugely personal and it also depends on the time of year and the current market.

“If you’ve got a nice, genuine, established open horse to sell then you can pretty much name your price as they are so hard to find,” says Kelly. “By the time you’ve produced a working hunter to top level over two to three years you’re probably not even making that much money out of it anyway. You have to ask a decent price to make the whole process worth it.

“If you’re buying a young horse at a sale, you’re more likely to find a bargain as the prices are dependent on what is being paid on the day. Though the sales market is unpredictable; sometimes you will feel you’ve paid enough for a horse, while other times you will feel like you’ve stuck lucky and got a gem for a very fair price.

“Horses aren’t cars and there isn’t a set rule dictating how much you should pay. Sometimes circumstances mean a horse is being sold for a lot of less money, sometimes sellers will hold out for a strong price as they have time to do so. But generally, if you have a nice working hunter, whether it a 133cm or a horse worker, you can command a good price for it.”

What happens when I’ve agreed to buy a working hunter?

When you have agreed on a sale, it is time to organise a pre-purchase vetting, something that is strongly recommended.

The vet will assess the horse with the specific job you want it for in mind, so it’s important to let the vet know prior to the vetting that your main goal is to compete it as a working hunter. If you tell the vet that you want the horse for the show ring, they should hopefully inform you of any blemishes or conformational faults which could impact its future career, even if they don’t impact its soundness or performance.

“I would always have a five-star vetting, and if money allows, I would ask for X-rays of both the hocks and feet,” says Katrina. “If you were buying a younger horse, say an unbroken three-year-old, a two-stage would do the job, but I would still request X-rays.”

For more information, you can read H&H’s ultimate guide to buying a horse.

• To stay up to date with all the breaking news from major shows throughout the season, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

You may also be interested in:

How to buy your ideal all-rounder

How to buy your perfect dressage horse

How to buy an eventer: what to look for

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

As surely as a horse owner wants to find a (clean, straight) leg at each corner on a horse, when it comes to looking at dressage horses for sale they will talk about four key attributes: good movement, temperament, breeding and conformation.

But in which order should these things be considered? Where should you — and should you not — consider compromising; and are those attributes ranked in a different order of importance when it’s an amateur buying a horse rather than a professional?

Experts are unanimous that temperament — a sense of eagerness and wanting to please — are especially important in an amateur’s ride. So here are eight questions every rider should ask themselves before handing over the cash.

1. Do you need a horse that big?

“Some people think a 17hh horse is the thing to have,” says Buckinghamshire-based trainer and rider Douglas Hibbert. “But horses can keep growing until they are seven.”

“If the rider can’t balance it, buying too big a horse is a mistake,” says former British team rider and Yorkshire Riding Centre resident instructor Jane Bartle-Wilson.

“A lot of people are happier kicking [than being on top of a surplus of power],” adds leading rider, producer and trainer Rebecca Hughes.

2. Do you really want a horse that young?

“I think four-year-olds are not for amateur riders,” says Douglas. “People think they will buy less trouble at this age, but they are at a delicate part of their education and it can so easily go wrong.”

3. Do you need to go abroad?

Grand prix rider Hayley Watson-Greaves agrees that trying 10 in a day on the continent can be a fantastic experience, but thinks we miss treasure under our noses.

“My mum is constantly trawling private adverts, and has a good eye,” she says. “She finds lovely horses for sale in Britain.”

Additionally, if it’s British, “there’s a good chance someone we know knows something about it; there’s that extra traceability,” adds Douglas.

4. Have you been thorough on the phone?

“People are often nervous about asking direct questions, like: has it ever been lame; does it have any insurance exclusions? Ditto, they are embarrassed to call POA ads,” says Douglas. “Don’t be. It could save you a [wasted] journey — or throw up your perfect horse.”

5. Did you want to get off?

“You have to feel comfortable on the horse,” says Hayley. “Make sure you have tried it thoroughly in all paces. Some try it at walk and trot and want to buy it.”

“I want to hear a client’s virtually been dragged off the horse,” says Douglas. “You’ve really got to want to ride it every day.”

High on Jane’s list of undesirables is an ugly head: “It just affects your motivation to ride each day.”

6. Do you need such an advanced horse?

“I’ve seen so many disasters of people buying horses too far above them — buying an ex-grand prix horse when they haven’t ridden above medium themselves,” says Jane.

7. Have you set aside a training budget?

“You can spend a fortune on the best horse in the world, but you’ve got to be able to ride it,” says Rebecca. “Higher quality horses can often be more sensitive and responsive, and may need some professional training. Training is the best investment. Don’t get the new lorry — get more help.”

“Young horses do go through a teenage stage and you may need help to get through that,” agrees Hayley.

8. Do I have suitable facilities?

“Do consider your home set-up when choosing a horse,” urges Douglas. “If you have limited turnout, or an exposed arena, or are on busy roads, or have very limited time in which to ride around a day job, you may not be well placed to take on a young horse or one used to being worked hard every day by a professional.”

• To stay up to date with all the breaking news from major shows throughout the season, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

You may also be interested in:

How to buy your ideal all-rounder

How to buy an eventer: what to look for

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

Horse of the Year Show (HOYS) has added a new showing class for American Miniature Horses – the UKAMHS American Miniature Horse of the Year — to its 2025 schedule, in addition to the established Miniature Horse of the Year class at the show. The class will include commentary to help spectators learn more about the breed.

But before you rush to Google “American Miniature horses for sale near me,” grab your notebook as Emma Williams, from Pandoras Miniature Farm, guides us through the do’s and don’ts of buying and showing this breed…

Is the American Miniature Horse for you?

“American Miniature Horses are suitable for anyone,” says Emma, “they can be ideal for children or adults.

“Many owners discover this breed after retiring from showing or riding larger horses, but still have the passion for keeping horses. Miniature horses can be easier to care for than full-sized horses due to their smaller size, and while they still require acreage to graze and roam, they don’t need as as much as their larger counterparts.”

Accessibility is also a key factor in the breed’s appeal.

“They are easy to work with,” adds Emma, “making it possible for people with injuries or disabilities to enjoy showing; a miniature can truly open the door for anyone who wants to give it a shot!”

As well as their physical attributes, Emma explains that the American Miniature Horses have such an inquisitive nature.

“They’re incredibly friendly and love to engage with people, they’re social animals which is what makes them so good as therapy horses.”

Which American Miniature Horses are suitable for showing?

First and foremost, Emma would encourage anyone looking to buy an American Miniature Horse for the show ring to refer to the American Miniature Horse breed standard, and try to find a horse that meets its criteria.

In a nutshell, you are looking for a horse that is “conformationally correct and moves well,” Emma explains, adding that “an American Miniature Horse is a beautiful, small, well-balanced horse that, if size were not a factor, would possess the same conformational proportions of other full sized light breeds.

“In terms of breed type, the American Miniature horse is generally a scaled down version of the lighter show horse category, such an Arabian horse or hack; you’re not looking for a scaled down heavyweight hunter or cob.

“There is also a slightly heavier category for American Miniatures called the stock division. This category features horses that resemble scaled-down quarter horses. These horses are well muscled making them perfectly suited for various purposes, including driving and performance classes, showcasing their impressive skills and versatility.

“It is important to note that, regardless of type, each horse will be judged on its own merit. Any colour or coat pattern is acceptable for showing, as are blue eyes.

“If you want to access the new HOYS qualifiers, then your American Miniature Horse must stand 34 inches or less, and meet the eligibility requirements set out by the UK American Miniature Horse Society (UKAMHS). Additionally, the horse must be nominated for the show year, and you can find out more on the society’s website.”

How much should you expect to pay for an American Miniature Horse?

“Cost can vary,” says Emma. Like any show horse, factors such as breeding and previous performance can impact their price tag. It also depends where you are sourcing your horse. If you decide to import an American-bred horse, you will need to consider the import costs and taxes.

“Generally though, you’re looking to spend anything between £4,000 and £15,000 for a show horse. But of course, you might get lucky and find one for less.”

Where can you buy one?

“To find a show horse, I would suggest reaching out to the American Miniature Horse breed shows or the UK Studbook (AMHCGB) for recommendations of reputable breeders and go from there,” says Emma.

“We always recommend having horses vetted. This not only helps identify potential health issues or conformational faults but may be a requirement for your insurance company.

“Additionally, before you buy, we advise verifying the horse’s registration with the American Studbook to ensure that the horse is a purebred and has been registered correctly prior to agreeing to the purchase.”

What do you need to look the part in the show ring?

An American Miniature Horse should be shown in a simple halter similar to those used for Arabian horses, with a standard chain and leather lead as used for all in-hand showing. In stock type classes, the horses wear stock halters that resemble scaled-down versions of those used for showing Quarter Horses.

Emma adds: “American Miniature Horses are usually shown freshly clipped, as a clipped appearance tends to highlight their features, but you won’t be penalised if your horse has a full coat. Bridle paths are clipped back so that you can show off definition through the neck, although the key is that the clip needs to suit the horse. As with any show horse, you want to enhance the good bits. Tails are generally left natural, but we’d recommend that it’s not so long that the horse can stand on it.”

And what about the handler’s attire?

“The handler needs to be smartly turned out in a jacket or long sleeved shirt and smart trousers,” explains Emma, but before you reach for your tweed, American Miniatures tend to be shown with handlers in a variety of colours, depending on the colour of the horse and the handler’s personal preference.

“Many opt for a western look, featuring western shirts or jackets. Many of the jackets have embellishments and can be quite sparkly,” says Emma, adding, “cowboy hats are also allowed, though hats aren’t mandatory unless you are showing in a stock class, where you must wear a western hat, a long sleeved shirt or jacket, and western footwear. Gloves are not a requirement, and canes are not allowed.”

If, like us, tying a tie leaves knots in your stomach, don’t worry. Emma explains: “Handlers don’t typically wear traditional ties; men may choose to wear one with a jacket, but many opt for a western bolo tie instead. As for women, they typically don’t wear ties, but again, it’s down to the handler’s preference. You really have a wonderful selection of choices when it comes to what to wear.”

We’ll look forwards to seeing sparkly shirts and jackets on show this summer.

• To stay up to date with all the breaking news from major shows throughout 2025, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

You may also be interested in:

From new skills to home-made cake: 7 reasons why all showing fans should give stewarding a go

‘Times are changing and we have to go with them’: showing world reacts to HOYS changes

Expert tips to turn your hairy horses into showing stars ready to impress the judges

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

Money can buy most things — but it’s not the only consideration when buying a first pony. We suss out what to look for in a four-legged gem.

Although a little girl might fantasise about owning a unicorn, looks are low on the agenda when it comes to the perfect first pony.

Temperament

“Temperament is the most important criteria,” says showing producer and lead-rein specialist Sharn Linney.

“All children need a kind, quiet pony for the crucial early days, who is willing to do whatever is asked of them in and out of the stable — ground manners are key. Breeding, age and colour are irrelevant, although the pony should be sound and healthy.”

Size

Many of us treasure early photos of ourselves with our legs halfway up the saddle flaps — and Sharn is flexible on height, so long as the child isn’t over-horsed.

“They shouldn’t be too big or strong, but nothing so small that they will quickly be outgrown — the partnership takes time to build.”

Reputation

Sharn’s main warning is to avoid ponies with no history.

“Contact reputable breeders, ask local Pony Clubs, and don’t rush the decision,” she says. “And always see the current owner ride the pony first, so you know whether the pony is suitable for your child to ride.”

Hannah Goffe of White House Farm Equestrian has found perfect ponies for everyone from Russian oligarchs’ children to her own daughters, and also stipulates kindness as key.

“The first pony needs to make the child want to carry on riding,” she adds. “I wonder how many future riders we’ve lost because they’ve had an inappropriate first pony.”

Price

As for a ballpark price — there isn’t one.

“Some are family pets who never come on to the market, or you may get lucky and land one on loan,” Sharn says. “A good one is priceless as they’re worth their weight in gold.”

• To stay up to date with all the breaking news from major shows throughout the year, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

You may also be interested in:

11 things you need to know before you let your child have a pony

Here are 11 things you need to know before you take possession of that perfect first pony....

When is the right time to buy a pony for your child?

In her new book Pony care: A complete guide to buying and caring for your first pony, Alison Pocklington looks

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

An all-rounder can be described as the ‘jack-of-all-trades’ of the horse world. He is a willing companion who is ready to have a go at just about anything. But with so many adverts claiming the horse can do everything from dressage and cross-country to a sponsored ride — how do you buy an all-rounder horse?

He won’t be a superstar, warns producer and trainer Lynn Russell.

“He should be able to jump a course, say 2ft 6in to 3ft, be traffic-proof and move reasonably well, but not be in the top dressage or showing category.

“To me, an all-rounder is the sort of horse who can be ridden by any member of the family, within reason, and has the ability to compete at a local riding club.”

Safety first

To find out if the horse is suitable for your level of riding, you must put him to the test. It’s important to try the horse at everything you want to do with him, such as showjumping or cross-country.

You should also take the following steps:

• Watch another person ride him first. Horse dealer and trainer Candy Martin, from West Farleigh, Kent, says: “If you find yourself eager to have a go, then that’s a good sign. But if you don’t like what the horse is doing, and you’re feeling apprehensive, stop right there. It is unlikely the rest of the trial is going to improve.”
• Ride him by some unusual objects, such as a wheelie bin lying on its side, a flapping tarpaulin or a pile of coloured jump poles. Most horses will shy at something new, but his reaction will be a good indication of how spooky he is.
• Ask to take him out hacking on the road, first with another horse and then alone. Pay particular attention to how he behaves around traffic. Above all, while on the hack you should feel safe and secure.

So how can you tell if a horse has a good temperament? Here are a few checks you can make:

• Go into the horse’s stable and see how he reacts when you make a fuss of him. He should be happy with you in his stall and not protective of his territory.
• Take him out and walk him around the yard. He should walk quietly beside you, not try to barge off. Tack and untack the horse as if he were your own. Is he willing to stand while he is groomed and saddled?
• Make sure you can lift and pick out his feet, without him kicking or snatching the leg away from you.
• He should also be willing to be caught from the field and have good manners when you handle him.

Buying an all-rounder horse

The all-rounder is often the hardest horse to buy, so be prepared to take enough time to find the right animal for you.

“All-rounders can be like gold dust,” says Candy. “They are hard to find because they can do a bit of everything. Once they’ve found a good all-rounder, most people will keep him forever.”

Both Candy and Lynn feel that people often mistakenly believe that because they’re after an ordinary horse, they can pay very little for it.

“When buying an all-rounder, first and foremost, you are buying a horse for his temperament and suitability,” says Lynn. “The temperament of the horse is most important, and you get what you pay for.”

Also keep in mind that there are all-rounder at many levels, and one with talent is going to cost you more.

1. By word of mouth: All-rounders change hands infrequently and are usually known for their temperament. Use your equine network and let as many people as possible know what you’re looking for, especially those with good equestrian contacts.

2. Via online classifieds platforms: there are a range of websites that provide horses for sale services that allow you to find horses for sale in your area and price range.

3. Find a reputable horse dealer or agent: If the horse isn’t working out, a good horse dealer may be open to an exchange or be able to help you find something more suitable. But do your research before viewing to check if a dealer has a good reputation or not.

You might also be interested in:

Buying a horse: Horse & Hound’s ultimate step-by-step guide

Been there, done that, got the t-shirt: 5 reasons you can always rely on a family horse

There’s nothing to beat a good family horse — this Mr Dependable of the horse world might not be a

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

Eventing is often deemed to be the ultimate test of horse and rider, but with so much to ask, what do top riders prioritise when they’re looking to buy an event horse and navigating how to buy an eventer?

Buying an eventer: conformation

Experienced event horses don’t always have perfect conformation. But you should discuss any issues with your vet before deciding to buy, to make sure that any imperfections aren’t going to impact on soundness or performance.

“Conformation is quite far down my list,” says Sam Watson. “But I‘d be wary of significant flaws that could jeopardise soundness.”

On the other hand, Lauren Blades really emphasises the importance of conformation.

“Horses can look different to one another, or have their own weaknesses, but it’s important that they are in proportion,” she says.

Similarly Georgie Goss says: “Feet and limbs are especially important. My vet and farrier always say to me ‘no foot, no horse’.

“But then I have several thoroughbreds, and they tend not to have the best feet in the world,” she adds.

Buying an eventer: temperament

A trainable temperament and a willingness to learn are high on the agenda for most eventers. The horse must be obedient for dressage, bold across cross-country and careful in the showjumping.

“I like a horse to have a genuine, quiet temperament, but to be a bit sharper when they are ridden,” says Georgie.

Lauren likes a “kind eye” and Sam looks for something trusting.

Buying an eventer: movement

When looking to buy an eventer there might have to be an element of compromise in terms of movement or jumping ability.

A good quality, balanced canter is everything for Sam. And the trot and jump have to be “good enough to work with”.

“Improving a walk is difficult,” he says. “So having a good one is a bonus.”

Georgie would prioritise a good jumper over a flashy mover.

“If I couldn’t find a horse that moved and jumped well, I would probably go for one with a better jump,” she tells H&H. “With my showjumping background I have always preferred a good jumper.”

Lauren also emphasises the need for a natural jump. “You can teach a horse dressage through its training, but you can’t teach an uncareful horse to be careful!” she says.

How to buy an eventer

As Lauren says, “you never know what you are going to find and where” – it could be through word of mouth, a dealer or a private seller.

Sam relies on trusted producers and breeders at home and in Ireland. “I don’t play the numbers game or take chances on a horse that ‘could be anything’,” he says. “I know where to find future four-star horses – I just wish I could afford to buy all of them!”

Making the final decision

With so many factors to consider, the prospect of buying an eventer may seem overwhelming. But Sam advises that it is “all about clicking”.

“If you and the horse are enjoying yourselves and feel at home in those first few moments together then little else matters.

“If a horse ticks every conceivable box, but your instinct says something isn’t quite right, then trust it and walk away.”

• To stay up to date with all the breaking news from major shows throughout 2025, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

You may also be interested in:

Buying a horse: Horse & Hound’s ultimate step-by-step guide

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

When you’re looking to buy a showjumper it’s easy to get lost among the endless adverts promising the next superstar. So to help you sort out the wheat from the chaff, we ask successful riders what they look for when viewing showjumpers for sale and what advice they have for amateurs who are wondering how to buy a showjumper that will suit their needs.

How to buy a showjumper: temperament is key

Whether you are looking to buy a showjumper to compete at the highest level or you are starting out in British Showjumping Club or British Novice classes, our experts agree that a good temperament is vital. A horse with a trainable brain and the right attitude towards his work will make life easier and more enjoyable for his rider at every level.

“First and foremost, look for something that enjoys its jumping — that’s half the battle,” says Helen Tredwell.

Georgie Crumley agrees: “A genuine, willing temperament is extremely important. That’s one thing every special horse has in common. They are willing to try their hardest and give you everything they’ve got when it matters.”

While having a horse that wants to work with you is important, William Funnell highlights the importance of suiting the horse to the rider.

“Having a horse with a tricky temperament is not a problem for an experienced rider,” he says. “Talented horses are often tricky as youngsters, but come right in professional hands. You have to have the right mix between ability and temperament.”

So when browsing showjumpers for sale, it’s important that you assess your abilities and circumstances honestly. A horse that is jumping at top level with a professional rider will not necessarily suit an amateur rider with a small set-up at home.

Our riders agreed that while they would happily take on a talented and possibly quirky young horse for themselves, they wouldn’t advise that route for an amateur or young rider looking to step up the grades.

Helen said: “I am happy to go for something with potential, as long as it shows that it is careful and has a willingness to go. I don’t mind if they are tricky to ride and I’m happy to play around with them.”

But for a young rider or amateur, Helen would look for something with more experience that is perhaps stepping down a level to give that rider a good feel over bigger fences.

“An amateur’s horse has to have proven it can jump well at the level the rider wants to compete at,” she says.

Laura Renwick agrees that an amateur’s showjumper must be more than capable of doing what it’s being asked and be willing to help the rider out.

“The horse must know its job and make the rider’s life easy,” she says.

Does conformation matter?

Some of the world’s best showjumpers have less than perfect conformation, and riders will often overlook some conformational weaknesses, if the horse is sound and has the desire to do the job.

“It wouldn’t worry me if the conformation wasn’t perfect,” says Helen, “although it can be a problem when you are selling the horse on.”

The key here is to avoid anything that might compromise the horse’s ability to remain sound long-term. When looking at showjumpers conformational weaknesses should be discussed with your vet to avoid problems in the future.

Where to find showjumpers for sale?

There are no hard and fast rules as to where to buy a showjumper, but there are plenty of online horse for sale services and showjumpers also sell via word of mouth.

“I’m a believer that horses find you if they’re good enough,” says Helen. “You never know where you’re going to find your next horse. You have to be open-minded and just put your feelers out.”

Georgie bucks the trend of looking on the continent for top showjumpers, believing that England is the best place to buy horses.

“You generally know the people who you are dealing with and you can easily find a record of what a horse has done,” she says. “We have bought some exceptional horses from England including Wonderboy III, Blue Angel, Webalia G and champion American hunter Cruise.”

• To stay up to date with all the breaking news from major shows throughout the year, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

You may also be interested in:

Buying a horse: Horse & Hound’s ultimate step-by-step guide

The definitive guide to the pre-purchase equine vetting

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

If you want to buy a Shire as your next dream horse, then this advice on how to find the right one is a good place to kick off your search.

Would a Shire horse suit me?

Shire horses are adored across Great Britain and beyond. Their impressive stamp, calm disposition and kind nature has earned them a status as a gentle giant. However, as with all breeds, individual horses have specific temperaments and personalities, and not all are suited to ridden work or to being ridden or handled by an individual without some heavy horse experience.

Emma Green has been involved with the breed for 25 years. Her passion began when she met her husband, Richard, who has worked on the Shire horse scene since childhood. Emma has produced Shires for ridden work for several years, and she is a regular face on the showing circuit. She has reigned at the breed show on several occasions and she won the ridden heavy horse of the year title at the Horse of the Year Show in 2022 riding Westfield Calendar Girl.

“They are definitely weight carriers,” Emma begins. “While they are generally an amenable breed that is easily trainable, I don’t believe that all Shires would suit a novice, unless the horse had plenty of age on it. There is a lot of horse and power there, especially once the animal knows its own strength.”

What should I look for when buying a Shire?

When looking for a good example of a Shire horse, it is important to study the Shire Horse Society’s breed standard. However, Emma says that while good conformation is standard, the horses favoured by in-hand judges may be slightly different to those that would thrive under-saddle.

“If I was looking for a ridden Shire I’d ideally want something that stands between 17hh and 18hh,” says Emma. “The breed standard says that mares can be 16hh plus, so you do find smaller ones, but irrespective of size they need to catch the eye. A horse that is too big may find ridden work harder, and it might be a daunting sit-on for a ride judge, too.

“You should be able to tell what the horse is instantly. A Shire should have broad solid feet as they are carrying a lot of weight on them. They need to be put together correctly, with the head and neck in proportion to the size of the horse. I like a strong shoulder, nice straight forelegs, a good depth of girth, well-sprung ribs, and they should sweep upwards towards the hindquarters. Stallions and geldings should have a short, compact body, while mares can be slightly longer.

“Way of going is obviously important for riding. They need to have plenty of power and use their knees and hocks. The poll should be held high, with the nose raised just in front of the vertical. They should also be looking through their bridle with a joyful expression. A horse of this size needs a powerful back end so they don’t move on the forehand with the head on the floor.

“If you look at the Shire horses bred today compared to 50 years ago, a lot has changed. We no longer use them for what they were originally bred for and now their main purpose is for the show ring. This means some traits have been exaggerated, for example, the tying-in of the hocks. While close hocks may be a desirable trait for a breeder, it may not be so for the ideal ridden horse; it puts more pressure on the hocks and could mean they are weaker and can’t stand up to work.”

How much should I expect to pay?

The prices of Shire horses will vary depending on age and quality, as with all horse and pony breeds.

“A good Shire can go for the same money as a good light horse,” Emma says. “If you were looking for a quality horse that is ready made to go out and do a job, you are looking at anywhere from between £10,000 to £20,000. Youngsters are also fetching good prices, anywhere from £6,000 onwards. As there aren’t many Shires around, they are in high demand. And with any horse, if you want something top-drawer, you should expect to pay more.”

Where should I look?

Shire horses for sale will be advertised at various times in the season on online platforms as well as through word of mouth.

Alongside approaching dealers who specialise in heavy horses, approaching long-standing breeders is the best approach, as Emma explains: “These people will know about the breeding lines, too. Initially, I suggest going to breed shows and getting in touch with The Shire Horse Society, who have a ‘for sale’ site on their website. The society does a lot of demos and talks, and they do a good job in providing training and education opportunities for members. They even hold an annual camp which is great to get involved with once you have found your Shire.”

I’ve agreed to buy a Shire horse, what now?

When you have found the right horse for you, then it’s time to arrange a pre-purchase vetting, something that is strongly recommended.

The vet will assess the horse with the specific job you want it for in mind, so it’s important to let the vet know prior to the vetting what you want to do with the horse. If you want the horse for showing, the vet should pay close attention to any conformational faults which could impact its future career, even if they don’t impact soundness or performance.

“It’s always worth getting a vetting, especially if you are going to be paying a certain amount of money,” says Emma. “Shires can be prone to a few issues so if you’re wanting to ride your horse and it’s going to have an active life then a vetting would be recommended.”

• To stay up to date with all the breaking news from major shows throughout the season, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

You may also be interested in:

The Shire horse: all you need to know about this majestic breed

Discover the history behind and facts about this large breed of horse

Buying a horse: Horse & Hound’s ultimate step-by-step guide

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

A good family horse is as precious as gold dust. Take a look at our demanding checklist to keep in mind on your hunt for the perfect one

Buying a horse can be fraught with pitfalls and that’s true whether you’re looking for a competition superstar or a good, all-round family horse. When it comes to the latter, however, there’s a pretty demanding checklist you should keep in mind. H&H looks at what matters when looking for a family horses for sale.

1. “Don’t buy a Ferrari when a Ford Fiesta will do,” advises Yorkshire-based former advanced eventer turned trainer and Pony Club chief instructor Catherine Cundall.

“There’s nothing wrong with a Fiesta – they’re practical, economical and easy to drive; just what you want in a family horse!”

Catherine says she sees too many people over-horsing themselves with flashy horses they can’t ride, then end up losing their confidence.

2. Staying on the subject of looks, Catherine warns not to get seduced by beauty.

“Personally, I don’t think it matters how ugly or old the animal is if they are capable of doing the job. So long as the horse is sound and safe, and will do what you want to do, that is what matters.”

International eventer Tracey Dillon and BE-accredited coach based in Leicestershire, says there are two things top of her list when it comes to family horses: soundness and manners. “Everything else follows with good training. You can love them for their manners.”

3. Derbyshire-based trainer and producer Caroline Thornton believes mountain and moorland ponies for sale are a good starting point.

“Generally, they have good conformation and temperament, and a sensible brain. They also tend to have better feet; there are some conformation faults you can get along with, but bad feet are not one of them!”

Catherine Cundall agrees, and says part-bred Irish Draught horses for sale are also a favourite of hers. “They are usually a sound bet. They have enough brain to help you out of trouble, but don’t go looking for mischief,” she says.

4. Does size matter? Yes and no, says Catherine.

“The horse needs to be suitable for the rider(s), but be aware that very large horses can be more difficult to hold together when riding. They can also have a very big movement, which can be uncomfortable or tricky to cope with – some of the big warmbloods look great from the ground, but aren’t the right choice as an all-rounder.”

5. “Take a good look at their CV” is advice on which all three trainers agree.

“You’re looking for a horse which has done a bit of everything and, ideally, had a really good first education,” says Caroline. “Also, if the seller says the horse is good in traffic, make sure that doesn’t mean it’s just gone down a road a couple of times!”

Not being afraid of checking up on what the seller claims the horse has done is essential, says Catherine: “Genuine family types should have a traceable history. Ask around and check up on things like competition records.”

6. While word-of-mouth recommendation is the best reference a horse can have, this isn’t always possible. In that situation, it is sensible to bring in expert help.

“If you’re unsure, get professional advice to help you assess whether the horse is all it is claimed to be. A vetting will only tell you so much; you need to know the horse will be safe and mannerly too,” says Caroline. “After all, a really good family horse or pony which has the perfect CV will not be cheap. Make sure you will be getting what you’re paying for.”

• To stay up to date with all the breaking news from major shows throughout the season, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

You may also be interested in:

Been there, done that, got the t-shirt: 5 reasons you can always rely on a family horse

There’s nothing to beat a good family horse — this Mr Dependable of the horse world might not be a

Thinking about sharing a horse with your child? Here’s what you need to know first…

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

So you have decided to sell your horse. You have prepared your horse for sale and written your horse for sale advert. Now you need to consider choosing the right photos and videos to sell your horse.

Horses for sale adverts with photos and video increase the likelihood of a quick sale, because potential buyers will have decided this is the type of horse they are interested in buying before making that all important call to find out more and organise a viewing.

However, any old picture/video clip of your horse won’t do the job. You need to consider what impression you want the buyer to get and then choose an appropriate picture, which is clear and sharp, and a video which shows the horse in action at its best.

Choosing photos to sell your horse

Photos should be in focus and relevant to the job for which the horse is being sold. If your horse is being advertised as a showjumper, for example, then pictures should show the horse’s technique over a fence of an appropriate height, while a photo of a dressage horse should show its impressive paces. Equally, a child’s first pony should be pictured being ridden by a small child – not a teenager or adult.

A side-on shot of the horse without a saddle will show the horse’s conformation, which is important for a youngster or show horse, but make sure the background is not too dark or busy. While a pretty head shot may be eye-catching, it can suggest that the rest of the horse is being hidden for a reason, which may put off a potential buyer. Only include a head shot as an added extra if your advert includes multiple pictures, rather than as the main picture.

Fine weather always helps a picture look good, but make sure the sun is behind the photographer when taking photos, to avoid shadows appearing across the horse. Don’t be too ambitious with the type of picture you take. A clean, sharp, still image is better than a blurred, moving one.

If you are selling a competition horse and have a professional photo of the horse at a competition, that could be a good choice. However, you will need to ask for permission to use the photo in your advert, even if you have purchased a copy of the picture previously. The photographer may levy a small extra charge for allowing you to use the photo in an advert and/or ask for a credit (eg: photo by Mr Smith) to be included in the advert. Most photographers can recognise their pictures so if you don’t ask their permission you risk getting a unhappy call or email with an invoice for unpaid usage from the photographer when they see your advert.

Choosing a video to sell your horse

Since videos have become so quick and easy to shoot and upload to the internet, they have become a valuable asset when selling a horse. A buyer can get a much better impression of a horse’s way of going from a video than a couple of still images.

The same basic rules apply to video as to photos. Only include a video if it shows your horse off in a positive light. Videos should show the horse demonstrating the skills mentioned in the advert and at the appropriate level. Videos can either be from competition or schooling at home. You don’t need to be fancy with clever intros, set it to background music or include slow-mo sections. An unedited video that shows the horse off to their best is fine.

If the horse is a jumper, show the horse jumping fences of an appropriate height for the level it is competing in a good manner. Don’t include a video which shows a horse stopping, jumping hesitantly or having poles down. If the horse is a dressage or show horse, record a video of the horse showing its good paces, transitions and appropriate movements for its class or stage of training. If your horse is brilliant in heavy traffic, include a video of him being ridden down the road, or for a first pony, show the pony being handled/tacked-up/ridden by a child.

Supplying your photos/video

Once choosing the right photos and videos to sell your horse has been completed and your advert is ready, it should be quick and easy to upload them to a classifieds advertising service. Some services will have limits on the number of images or videos that can be included.

You may also be interested in:

How to write a horse for sale advert that will sell your horse to the right home

How to prepare your horse for a quick and hassle-free sale

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

While many of us horse owners will do everything we can to adjust our own expenses in order to be able to cover our horse’s costs, with the cost of living crisis continuing to bite, some of us may face the unpleasant realisation that we need to sell a horse to be able to pay our bills. If this applies to you, knowing how to improve your horse’s value should help expedite not only a fast sale, but ensure it is a lucrative one too. Quite simply, the same horse being marketed after two months or more off work in the field is likely to sell for less than when he is fit, up and running.

Bear in mind that you may need to make some investment – in time and/or money – to reap these rewards. So you have to weigh up whether it is better financially to try to sell a horse cheaply without that work and investment, or to take the appropriate amount of time and effort to achieve a bigger price-tag further down the line.

10 ways to improve a horse’s value

A marketable horse should be:

An appealing purchase

You cannot make a silk purse out of a sow’s ear, but a well-trained, polite horse will typically find a buyer more quickly than an unruly one. So while you might not literally add value, you’re more likely to sell for the asking price as this type of horse readily finds a new home.

A safe conveyance

A trustworthy ride can be priceless – even if the market rate for a certain horse’s physical ability and CV might not be sky-high. Make sure your horse is well-schooled on the road, in traffic, with tractors and farm machinery. Can he go round a farm and not spook at sheep, cows and pigs? Have you exposed him and desensitised him to distractions and hazards? Police horses spend many hours getting used to noises and hazards – work at it until you can faithfully sell him as a safe hack.

Well-schooled

If you do not have the skills to improve your horse’s way of going yourself, consider it a wise investment to seek a professional’s help. This should improve the value of your horse exponentially. It may also mean he can tot up a few competition results, as well as be more exposed to buyers thanks to being in a professional yard. Some buyers would rather put their trust in a reputable professional than a one-horse owner who has no history or references to check.

An all-rounder

A horse that can do a bit of everything has options when it comes to prospective buyers. A horse that shows a good attitude to work, hacks out, loads, is good to shoe, and can pop a pole, will be a nice all-rounder. The buyer can then choose to specialise in their chosen area.

Competition results

This is where you can make the biggest increase in value. Of course, this comes with its own investment – competing isn’t cheap, but if you can rack up some decent results on his record (and even some prize money to boot), you can quickly escalate the asking price. Major on what the horse is naturally gifted at, and get out competing. If you are not confident to compete, and the horse is capable, consider sending him to a professional to fulfil his ability.

In good health

You can’t always make a lame horse sound, but it’s worth knowing where you stand before starting the selling process. Asking the vet to give your horse a check-over is another expense, but one that may pay dividends in the long run. As most horses will be vetted prior to purchase to comply with insurance requirements, it’s worth knowing what the potential challenges are and whether you can do anything to improve any issues. There may be minor dermatological issues that can be easily fixed, for instance. It also means you can put on the ad, “clean X-rays” if appropriate, or manage your price expectations. Furthermore, if the horse has an old scar which is of no consequence for a competitive career, for example, it’s reassuring to have the vet’s assessment to share with the buyer.

Good to shoe, box, clip and catch

These have nothing to do with the horse’s physical ability, but they are still plus points when it comes to sale. Or to flip it, if he’s bad at any of these basic requirements, you may well have to sell him for cheaper than his value. Seek professional help if needed, and work at all these skills patiently until they are second nature.

Registered with a society

Horses that are registered with the appropriate society or association in which you are marketing the horse – for example, British Eventing or British Dressage – tend to have a higher price-tag than those which are not registered at all. It looks more professional, with the intention of the horse going places. Again, a little bit of competitive experience appropriate to the horse’s age and stage is always a bonus.

Fit and ready to go

Many buyers want a horse that is fit and ready to work, even if they want to put their own stamp on them. It is easier for the buyer to judge the horse’s ability if it is in work and produced to sell. On the other hand, buyers looking for a bargain are more likely to try to spot one in the rough, so make sure yours is not!

Market your horse well with great photos and videos

This shouldn’t increase the price-tag, but it will make him easier to sell. A professional-looking video is appealing to buyers and will make a decent price look appropriate. Make sure your photos match your advertisement, so if you say he’s jumping 1.20m at home, don’t video him over a tiny cross-pole. Show him off at his best.

Of course, horses are only ever worth what a buyer is willing to pay, and market rates fluctuate. However, the more boxes you tick, the more options your horse has for potential buyers – and the more likely you are to get a decent price.

• To stay up to date with all the breaking news from major shows throughout the season, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

You may also be interested in:

How to prepare your horse for a quick and hassle-free sale

Choosing the right photos and videos to sell your horse

Honesty is the best policy – but not everyone agrees: 8 life lessons you learn when you sell a horse

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

When it comes to selling your horse, do you listen to your head or your heart? Alex Robinson asks industry experts how riders can make this tricky decision

Selling can be one of the most challenging and emotionally charged parts of owning a horse. Not everyone can – or wants to – keep an animal until the end of his days and a sale is usually inevitable at some stage of a partnership, especially if you’re a competitive rider. While obvious physical limitations, such as the size of the horse, might force the hand, there can be other, more complex situations which suggest it may be time to seek out a new home. But when should you sell a horse?

Vere Phillipps (pictured) has bought, sold and produced competition horses for over 40 years. Alongside winners of grand prix showjumping finals and Olympic, world and European eventing championships, he has also found several stars of the hunting field and National Hunt scene. And he’s witnessed his fair share of owners in limbo along the way.

From a competitive standpoint, there are several reasons a rider might decide to part with a horse.

“I divide possible sale situations into three categories,” says Vere, who found Ros Canter’s 2018 world eventing champion Allstar B, to name just one. “There are those who buy a young horse, school him, sell him for a profit and leave a leg on for the next owner to get a bigger price [leave some room for improvement rather than selling a horse at its peak price].

“There are then riders who keep the horse right through the levels and despite being offered big money never sell and reap the glory instead. The third is the rider who keeps the young horse, wins a bit and then sells him while he’s still got a big future ahead. These are usually the most profitable people. The value comes from a well-produced, capable animal that a professional can see has a big future as a global championship prospect.

“A lot of enjoyment can still be had from watching a horse you’ve produced move on with someone else. If you think your horse could possibly be very good in a certain sphere and you feel he’s not going to reach it with you, it’s best to sell while he’s on the way up, ideally before he reaches his nine-year-old year as he’s still got time to reach his potential.”

But not every competitive rider seeks the same type of campaigner.

“My biggest market is for young horses – five-, rising six-year-olds – though I always maintain that if a horse is sound when he’s nine he’s likely still to be sound when he’s 19,” adds Vere.

“Some riders would be better choosing a slightly older horse who’s just coming into his own; he’s safe and established yet still has lots to give. An amateur might buy a youngster, send him away to be backed and, like a child, he goes through an adolescent period; he gets stronger and may need a more experienced jockey to put him back in his box a bit. If you don’t have the time, ability and facilities, this would be a good time to sell.

“On the other hand, if you’re still getting a lot of pleasure from your horse, don’t feel pressured to sell just so he can go on. It’s different if he’s getting too keen and you can’t ride him, but if he’s happy and you’re enjoying your time it’s certainly not a waste of an animal.”

Making the call

Joanne Shaw runs her own sales livery business in Cheshire and is one of the go-tos for a lot of showing and all-round riders looking to move their horses on.

“Usually, I take horses from owners who are too busy with work commitments or are just too attached to the horse to deal with the sale themselves,” explains Joanne. “A livery service can take that pressure off.”

While time and emotions are the two main catalysts, Joanne also says that some owners decide on a sale when a horse is too much for them and perhaps above their level of riding.

“These situations can be quite sad,” she continues. “Someone might have bought a horse with rose-tinted glasses on and when getting it home they realise it’s out of their capabilities. The partnership doesn’t work out and they feel it can do better with someone else more suited.”

Building a rapport

Trainer, young horse producer and working hunter specialist Katie Marshall often finds that, naturally, at some point in their riding journey a rider can find their ambitions and goals no longer match the capabilities of their horse.

“The partnership can be improved so far but if a horse has limited ability, soundness or is older, and the rider wants to do more – be it jumping or dressage – it might be time to move on,” she explains. “With children, where classes are frequently categorised by age, it’s fairly straightforward, however with adults it’s a case of planning ahead.

“In my experience you build a good rapport with clients and get to know their situations in terms of their capabilities as riders and how they manage their horses. Together, you can talk through scenarios and analyse what traits in a horse are most important for you, a tick list if you like.

“For instance, you may be a competent rider but if you work full-time, have limited facilities and minimal help, buying a young 16.2hh warmblood that needs riding every day may not be the best choice, for you or the horse.

“Another common situation is a less experienced rider with big dreams innocently buys a top competition horse. In this case you need to be prepared to invest the same again on lessons and training; these animals tend to be finely tuned and just because it’s done the job with another rider doesn’t mean it will do the same with you straight away. You’ve got to build a partnership.

“Having someone who can be pragmatic when it comes to deciding whether or not to sell is essential. If I don’t feel a horse or pony is doing a rider any favours I’ll be honest and encourage them to find something more suitable. After all, it’s meant to be fun and enjoyable; no one wants to be on the deck constantly! There will be a horse out there for them and also a more suitable home for their current horse.”

Katie teaches a lot of children at all levels.

“A typical scenario I find is a child has a characterful, cheeky pony which tests their riding,” she says. “As long as the pony is not dangerous or malicious in any way, I would encourage the jockey to ride through the challenges. In time they may improve the pony or at the very least learn to stick to and see the funny side; it will make them a better rider in the long run.”

Understandably, owners often put a sale off for as long as possible.

“It’s possibly the fear of the unknown,” continues Katie. “Buying and selling gets bad press and it can be hard to know who to trust. As a child my parents bought locally, often via word of mouth, so this is something I advocate.

“I defend lots of sellers. People come to me thinking they’ve been fleeced but in reality the horse is just too much for them. It’s not a bad horse, it’s just not a good match.”

Three expert tips for selling success

• Quality pictures – some common mistakes include standing a horse up to enhance the faults and not the qualities. When buying, try to look through bad pictures; if a horse is covered in mud and has been poorly stood up, ask for a different picture.
• Videos – provide footage to extract the genuine viewers. Take videos showing conformation, schooling, jumping and stable manners. This way you’ve shown every angle before any prospective buyer gets to the yard.
• Be honest and transparent – there is a horse out there for everybody and just because one has a problem or fault doesn’t mean it won’t be perfect for someone. It will put some people off but it means you’re not wasting anyone’s time (including your own) and those who are seriously interested can pursue it.

“The best decision I could have made”

Showing rider Rhi Randall sold her Connemara Western King to the Good family when he proved too much of a character for the show ring. The 14.2hh gelding was originally purchased as a just-backed three-year-old from his breeder in Ireland.

“I brought him on slowly but quickly realised he was a really sensitive ride,” reflects Rhi. “At his first show I worked him for two hours and after several classes he still hadn’t settled. I’m the first to admit I’m not the bravest over fences and the small jumps weren’t enough for him.”

After a three-year partnership, Rhi decided to advertise King.

“Former event rider Kirsten Good rang me to enquire about him for her 14-year-old daughter, Sasha,” continues Rhi. “As soon as Sasha jumped him she felt he had something special and they bought him.

“At the time they were based at Tweseldown and with correct training and a change in direction, he’s gone from strength to strength.”

King and Sasha stormed through the ranks, competing in the Badminton grassroots final at BE90 and BE100 in 2016 (pictured) and 2017 respectively.

“He’s also done steeplechase and has quite a good BS [British Showjumping] record,” says Rhi. “When Sasha was out of class her younger sister, Jenna, took the ride and they won the pony discovery finals at Stoneleigh.

“I’ve watched his career with the Goods and rather than struggle on with him myself, I’m glad I went with my head and not my heart. All I wanted to do was show, hack and do the odd clinic, but King needed his mind occupied with something bigger. It was the best decision I could have made.”

• To stay up to date with all the breaking news from major shows throughout the year, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

You may also be interested in:

Buying a horse: Horse & Hound’s ultimate step-by-step guide

Is a syndicate for you? H&H investigates…

There are lots of benefits to the syndicate system (if done correctly, of course), for both rider and participant

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

A dispute over the return of a deposit when the sale of a pony fell through could have been avoided had a contract been in place, a judge has ruled.

In June 2022, Theresa Bearman agreed to buy 138cm showjumper Letterkeen Bettyn from Raquel Eldridge-Keenan for £85,000. Mrs Bearman paid a £21,500 deposit stating that she would “pay the rest following a vetting” – and a message from Ms Eldridge-Keenan said that if the pony “breaks a leg etc, I will refund all of it.”

It was agreed that “Betty” would move to her new home at the end of October, after she jumped at the Horse of the Year Show. But on 12 October, days after the competition, a vet abandoned the pre-purchase examination when it was deemed during the exam that Betty was lame. Mrs Bearman said she would not go ahead with the purchase and asked for her deposit back. But Mrs Eldridge-Keenan said the money had been “a holding deposit”.

In a court hearing on 20 March 2024, the judge ruled that “the vetting was unsuccessful and Mrs Bearman was entitled to treat the contract as discharged and is entitled to the return of the money she paid by way of deposit”.

Betty returned to successful competition soon after the vetting, and the judge said her success “before and after the vetting speaks for itself” – but that this was not the issue of the case.

“This unfortunate and expensive case should never have arisen,” he said, adding that he encouraged buyers and sellers to use standard contracts in private sales.

“It will not resolve every dispute, but it would go a long way to making the rights and responsibilities clearer for all involved.”

Jacqui Dark of Equine Law UK, who represented Mrs Bearman, told H&H that her client hopes her case will raise awareness on the importance of contracts.

“A lot of this was based on trust, and sadly that’s where these things always end in litigation, because you have nothing in writing, you’re relying on text messages, and it just gets really messy,” she said.

A representative for Mrs Eldridge-Keenan told H&H that Betty has continued to perform and this was the basis “for which we believe we were justified”.

“Ultimately a judge had a different opinion, and we respect the legal system, but we don’t necessarily agree with the judgement and we don’t think we’re necessarily wrong. The continued performance of the pony is testament of its wellness,” the representative said, but agreed that had there been a contract, there would “have been no question or interpretation”.

Ms Dark said she has received “more and more” calls about deposit disputes in the past five years – and that these can be avoidable with contracts. She recommends that these set out terms around deposits; whether they are refundable and on what basis, signed by both parties and dates.

Oonagh Meyer, British Horse Society head of operations for approved centres, said buying a horse can be exciting but to get the most “positive outcome for you, the seller and the horse, it’s important to make careful considerations throughout the purchasing process” – and that owners should have signed receipts for money and consider a sales contract, including arrangements for deposits.

• To stay up to date with all the breaking news throughout the Olympic Games, Burghley, the Horse of the Year Show and more, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

You might also be interested in:

How to protect yourself when buying or selling horses: legal experts share helpful advice

‘There’s no point pretending it’s all sunshine’: the pitfalls to avoid when co-owning horses

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

Make a plan at the outset for the “worst case scenario” with the hope you never have to use it – that was the key takeaway message from a recent legal webinar on navigating co-ownership.

Hannah Bradley, of the Equine Law Firm, and Jodie Seddon, of Aria Grace Equine Law, took attendees through some of the major pitfalls to avoid – and using head over heart at the outset can help towards a smoother journey, during a recent webinar.

Headlines included why a 50:50 split is the “nightmare” scenario, and why exit provisions must be considered at the start.

“We all come into [ownership] in the right way,” said Ms Seddon, adding that the shape co-ownership takes is always “terribly personal”.

“I’ve dealt with co-ownerships where people literally want to just be given a list of shows, and I’ve dealt with co-ownerships where people want weekly updates, when the vet is called, what the horse is doing each week and genuine day-to-day involvement.

“There is no right or wrong – and this is why it’s so important that it’s correctly documented.”

Ms Seddon said she encourages clients to plan for the worst case at the outset. Areas to consider include what happens if the horse or rider is injured, if one party wants to leave, if there are disagreements regarding direction or plans for the horse, or a member of the co-ownership faces bankruptcy or dies. Accurate, up-to-date record-keeping is also recommended.

“There’s no point pretending it’s all sunshine and butterflies and blue skies – we all know that horses are horses,” she said.

“Hopefully, you put the agreement in the drawer, you never have to look at it again and you have a wonderful successful co-ownership. But sometimes, it doesn’t work.”

She added: “I find that by giving people a decent contractual structure to deal with any potential issues, it actually often helps to alleviate them, because it means that people keep talking – which is key.”

Ms Bradley warned that a 50:50 ownership split can create a “deadlock”, so people can find themselves in a situation that is very hard to resolve, and encouraged anyone opting for this split to work out how they would resolve an impasse.

“Know who you’re getting into the arrangement with,” she added. “That sounds really obvious, but you might be entering into a situation with people who you don’t know from Adam – even in smaller co-ownership arrangements. 

“It’s really important from the outset to understand who these people are. You want their full details and residential addresses because if things go wrong, it can be too late.”

Considering how valuations would be approached should also be set out at the start, as should any breeding rights, plus what happens to the horse if any disputes are ongoing. 

The pair also encouraged those in co-ownerships or syndicates to consider factors such as confidentiality and privacy, to be clear on what benefits are included and policies on how any owners’ passes or tickets are allocated.

“A contract only goes so far – nothing beats human relationships, picking up the phone, just having a chat,” said Ms Seddon.

“People invest in and put so much into the animals and the sport because they love it. You’ve got to take a step back and be very sensible at least at the outset – get the paperwork done, then go and enjoy it.”

You might also be interested in:

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

How to protect yourself when buying or selling horses: legal experts share helpful advice

The expense of horses: should I buy, share or have lessons?

Horse & Hound magazine, out every Thursday, is packed with all the latest news and reports, as well as interviews, specials, nostalgia, vet and training advice. Find how you can enjoy the magazine delivered to your door every week, plus options to upgrade your subscription to access our online service that brings you breaking news and reports as well as other benefits.

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

Disclosure, contracts and “crystal-clear” lines – how buyers and sellers can best protect themselves in today’s industry was discussed by top equestrian legal professionals at a recent webinar.

Hannah Bradley, of the Equine Law Firm, and Jodie Seddon, of Aria Grace Equine Law, took attendees through some of the basic steps they can take to help navigate potential pitfalls that may arise in buying and selling horses.

The pair strongly recommended having a contract drawn up specifically for that particular sale, stressed the importance of disclosure in deals, and advised people to listen to their senses when ascertaining whether a horse and potential buyer may be a good fit.

“You wouldn’t be alone if you thought, ‘I don’t have a written contract, so I don’t have a contract’, but that is not actually correct,” said Ms Seddon. “When you have an offer, an acceptance, payment and delivery, that’s a contract.

“Now, whether or not you control all the elements within that contract is key. And if you assume you don’t have a contract, what you actually have is a contract formed of what you’ve said, what you’ve done, text messages, WhatsApp messages, the advert, any chat you’ve had.

“Effectively, the contract can be formed around the whole process around the dealing – unless you actually ensure that there is a sales contract.

“A well-drafted sales contract will exclude an awful lot of the surrounding noise to distil down to exactly what you’re buying, when and where. Well done, it should be a really simple, user-friendly document that you can use to ensure that you understand exactly what you’re selling, when and to whom.”

She added: “A contract can never ever, ever replace a good working relationship with people, but it does enhance it.”

Both lawyers recommended people be careful around wording of adverts (“keep it factual”), that they retain as much evidence as they can, that the basics such as payment amounts and schedules are “crystal clear”, that both sides ensure that they have contact details, and that any issues are ideally disclosed in writing.

“You absolutely cannot contract your way out of the Consumer Rights Act [in situations where that applies],” added Ms Seddon. “There is not a thing we can do to get you out of what the statutory responsibility within that is.

“It is not fit for purpose in terms of equestrians, as it is designed for selling things such as washing machines, but it is the world we live in, it is the landscape we have and we can’t change it. That said, the best protection is always disclosure within a sales contract.”

If problems do arise, both urged parties to be professional in their responses, seek professional legal advice sooner rather than later, and never ignore court deadlines or requests. H&H has covered the role of agents in deals (news, 29 December 2022) – and again, the pair stressed that clarity and disclosure in this area are vital.

Ms Bradley shared her “top three tips” as disclosing details such as horses’ quirks, biases, habits and veterinary and management issues in writing – but do not put these on a receipt, as this may be considered as being “post-contractual”, meaning it might not be able to be relied upon as information given at the time of the sale.

“If you think that the buyer is not the right match, they probably aren’t,” she said. “It’s certainly better to lose a sale than end up in litigation about it. Finally, as a litigation lawyer, it’s always easier to defend you if you use a well-drafted contract.”

She added: “It’s important to be aware that if in any circumstances it’s not proportionate or not possible to get a proper contract drafted, any disclosures you can make in writing or important points that you can get in writing are going to help you.”

The webinar was the first in a series, with further subjects planned for near future.

You might also be interested in:

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

How to avoid legal pitfalls when buying and selling horses

Horse & Hound magazine, out every Thursday, is packed with all the latest news and reports, as well as interviews, specials, nostalgia, vet and training advice. Find how you can enjoy the magazine delivered to your door every week, plus options to upgrade your subscription to access our online service that brings you breaking news and reports as well as other benefits. 

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

Buying a horse is a serious long-term commitment and one that can be expensive, both in terms of time and financial investment. So if you’re thinking about taking the plunge, Horse&Hound’s ultimate guide to buying a horse is here to help you avoid the common pitfalls and increase the likelihood of you finding your ideal partner at the first attempt.

From which questions to ask to help you decide if a particular horse is suitable for you, to what to do when you go to view horses for sale — we’ve got the expert advice you need to make sure it’s as hassle-free as possible.

Before you begin

Looking for the perfect horse can be time consuming, so before you start your search consider the following:

• If this is your first horse, do you have the time for such a big commitment? Having a horse can be exhausting, as well as rewarding, so make sure you’ve got the time and energy to look after your four-legged friend every day of the year – and have plans in place to cover any days you can’t manage.
• If you’re adding to your existing herd, then think realistically if you have the time to commit to an extra horse.
• Be sure that you have the perfect home in mind. If you’re already at a livery yard, then check there is enough space for an addition before you go hunting for a new ride. If you’re a new owner, do your research into local livery yards before you make any decisions.
• Horses aren’t just a big commitment to your time, but also to your purse-strings. Don’t go head first into buying your own horse until you’re sure you can afford it. You will also need to take into consideration the large variety of costs that come with horses such as insurance, vet bills and shoeing. Take a look through our guide that’ll give you more of an idea on how much it costs to keep a horse. Think it’s a bit pricey? There are other options to have horses involved in your life, like sharing.

Now you have the important basics organised, it’s time to consider what type of horse you are looking for. Being clear about this will shorten the searching process.

When working out what horse you’d like to buy, ask yourself:

• Is the horse likely to be ridden by other members of your family? Think, it’s got to be suitable for everyone who wants to ride.
• Do you have the time, patience and skill to bring on an inexperienced horse?
• Is it important you see regular improvements in you and your horse? If so, make sure you look for a horse with potential to improve.
• Are you looking for a horse that knows the ropes? If so, make sure the horses you’re looking at viewing are a little bit older and have the relevant experience.
• Do you want to compete and if so, right away? Choose your horse accordingly.
• What are the deal breakers for you? These could be anything from price or build, to age; write a list of things you aren’t willing to budge on – and stick to them!
• What are you willing to compromise on? Again, write a list and don’t be tempted to add things on.

Write down the answers to these questions and keep referring back to them when considering horses for sale. It’s easy to get carried away when you’re trying horses so always refer back to the list.

Next step: Choosing horses to view

Ultimate guide to buying a horse

Buying a horse: choosing horses to view

Buying a horse: viewing prospective horses

Buying a horse: important dos and don’ts

Buying a horse: the vetting or pre-purchase examination

Buying a horse: final questions, payment and when you get your new horse home

Prepare yourself for a journey that, unless you’re really lucky, could easily last a few months. You may have to travel, have deliberations and be let down, but it’ll all be worth it in the end if you find your perfect equine partner.

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

BEST practice and how to protect yourself in the equine marketplace is back in the spotlight as a lawyer from a top firm shares her learnings from recent cases.

Alexandra Agnew from Mishcon de Reya, who has an equestrian background, strongly voiced the importance of transparency between buyers, sellers and agents.

Although Ms Agnew cannot comment specifically on cases, she has highlighted some general learnings – including some of the hidden pitfalls and steps people can take to avoid these.

The underlying theme was clarity; whether for a simple transaction or complex sales involving multiple horses, agents, sellers and other invested parties.

“Try to take a step back and ensure things are properly documented to the best and greatest extent possible. Be clear what the parameters of your personal responsibility are so as to limit your exposure to liability at each stage of a transaction,” Ms Agnew told H&H.

“The first and most obvious point is not misrepresenting what you are selling. Make sure the horse is fit for the purpose it is being sold for and be clear about whether it has any vices.”

In defining fit for purpose, taking a step back from a buyer’s hopes and seller’s (occasionally rose-tinted) view of the horse, to look objectively is vital.

“One of the issues that has arisen is around vettings. It’s important to ensure that the vet is appointed by the purchaser and is independent of both the agent and the seller,” added Ms Agnew. “This avoids the risk of an allegation of conspiracy if the horse later turns out to have a material defect, which may not have been picked up by the vet or was determined not to be a serious issue at the time of the vetting.”

She again stressed transparency around commission, and highlights that it is illegal when acting as an agent to secretly profit from the transaction, without telling the person you are acting for.

“Spell it out if you are going to charge an introduction fee or commission,” she said.

“It gets more complicated when there are multiple agents involved, so just try to be clear who is acting for who. Make sure that the person you are acting for knows what profit you gain from the transaction.”

Having your role and costs set out in writing is also a good idea, even if just on text or WhatsApp.

“Be really clear from the outset of who is responsible for taxes, import and export duties and things like the ancillary costs of the agent, such as travelling, as well as stabling and transport,” Ms Agnew said.

“Make sure those are agreed in advance and, where possible, included on invoices. With part-exchanges, make sure that you have clearly ascribed a value to each horse and that it is agreed by both parties.

“Another issue that has come up is uncertainty as to whether agents and sellers are operating through a company or in their personal capacity. This has potential tax implications and there is a risk, when acting in your personal capacity that if it all goes wrong and someone brings a claim against you, that any financial award could be enforced against your assets. I’m not sure people really realise that this could include their lorry, yard, or house.

“As many professionals have businesses, they often assume that they are operating through their business, but you need to be really careful that if you are, you explicitly state that and invoice through your company so that it’s very clear from the outset that’s how you are operating.”

Ms Agnew added that ensuring you understand who has authority to act is also important. You want to ensure that you are negotiating a sale with someone who has authority to negotiate on the buyer’s behalf or you risk a transaction falling through in the final stages.

The Equine Law Firm’s Hannah Bradley, a solicitor who specialises in equine and bloodstock disputes, explained the differences in the eye of the law between selling horses as a private individual, or as a professional trader (“dealer”).

“The law defines a dealer (trader) as somebody who is selling horses with a view to making a profit. So it doesn’t necessarily have to be your full-time or only profession, but if you’re selling horses with a view to making a profit, then you will likely deemed to be a trader,” she told H&H.

“If you’re a trader and you’re selling horses, the law imposes heavy restrictions on you because of the Consumer Rights Act. If you’re a trader selling to a private individual, the Consumer Rights Act applies. That means every horse or pony you sell has to be fit for purpose, satisfactory quality and as described.”

She added that the nature of horses as living beings means defining “satisfactory quality” can be tricky. So her “number one” recommendation would be to have a contractual document of some description.

“Although a contract can’t extinguish a trader’s obligations under the Consumer Rights Act, it can provide a few added layers of protection for professionals who are trying to sell genuine horses,” she said.

“The second recommendation I would give to any seller, whether professional or private, is to disclose things like behavioural quirks or veterinary history in writing, in a permanent form that you can refer back to. Whether that’s in an email, a text message or in a contract, that’s really helpful.”

She added that getting to know the buyer as far as possible, including their limitations and abilities, is helpful, too, in terms of getting a “good feel” for whether a horse is likely to be “the right fit”.

“It’s better to lose a sale than to have litigation ensue,” she said.

For agents, disclosing commission is top of the list.

“If you are acting either as a sourcing agent or selling agent, you must disclose if you’re taking a commission” she said.

“Again, better to do so in writing so that there can be no discrepancy and you’ve been clear about your position in the transaction.”

Ms Bradley echoed Ms Agnew’s point about being clear on your authority as an agent, and whether you are authorised to make certain statements or to bind the seller into a transaction or not. She also reiterated the importance of spelling out what exactly is included in that commission and when the commission is payable.

“It’s ideal to have contractual documents in place, but if that’s not feasible, any form of permanent correspondence, communication or documentation you can refer to, is helpful,” she said.

You might also be interested in:

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Buying a horse: Horse & Hound’s ultimate step-by-step guide

Post-Brexit VAT change could leave dealers out of pocket

The expense of horses: should I buy, share or have lessons?

Horse & Hound magazine, out every Thursday, is packed with all the latest news and reports, as well as interviews, specials, nostalgia, vet and training advice. Find how you can enjoy the magazine delivered to your door every week, plus options to upgrade your subscription to access our online service that brings you breaking news and reports as well as other benefits. 

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

Buyers and sellers could be counting the cost after Brexit-related changes may result in traders paying more VAT.

British-based business advisers and chartered accountants Hazlewoods has warned that effectively the VAT second-hand margin scheme has been withdrawn for UK businesses, with the exception of Northern Ireland, buying horses from the EU.

This means dealers who previously used the second-hand margin scheme and who source horses from EU nations could face higher VAT rates.

Lucie Hammond, partner in Hazlewoods’ farms and estates team, who leads the firm’s equine specialism, said the company has “many clients operating similar businesses” who are facing this “dilemma”.

“The options are to either put up prices, or to absorb, at least in part, the extra VAT cost. Those who continue as before run the risk of an HMRC investigation, which could result in a VAT bill, interest, and potential penalties,” she said.

“We are not aware that any specific announcement was made to publicise these changes, and HMRC’s margin scheme guidance for buying and selling horses is silent on EU imports. Therefore, many international horse dealers in Britain will not be aware of the change in their VAT position and may have miscalculated their VAT liability since 1 January 2021.”

The second-hand scheme provides VAT relief to businesses buying second-hand goods, including horses, from non-registered members of the public. In broad terms, it works by entitling users to pay VAT on just their profit margin, rather than the full sale value of an animal. This still applies in other circumstances, such as non-international business.

But since Brexit, all second-hand goods from the EU have become imports on which VAT is levied on arrival in the UK, and UK dealers of horses sourced from EU nations have lost their right to charge their buyers the lower sums of VAT.

Tim Warren, owner of Warren Eventing, has been importing horses from Europe for more than 30 years and is now questioning whether it is “even possible to continue”.

“As an example, if a UK dealer bought a horse in Europe pre-Brexit for £15,000 and then sold it in the UK for £20,000, there would be VAT to account for on the margin equalling £833, leaving the dealer with a profit of £4,167 before other costs,” he said.

“Post-Brexit, dealers have to account for VAT on the full sale price of £20,000, increasing the VAT to £3,333.33, Leaving the dealer with a profit of only £1,667 before other costs. After adding transport and insurance costs, along with the import and export agents’ fees, and other necessary expenses, there is little left to make it worthwhile.”

He added: “For decades, I have done this work for the satisfaction of selecting young horses which go on to become top competition horses. Facing thousands of pounds in extra VAT, I will have to question whether it is even possible to continue. Government should consider the situation and take action.”

Hazlewoods advise those affected to make sure they are correctly accounting for VAT on the full sales price of horses imported since 1 January 2021, and to consider lobbying their MP for a change to post-Brexit legislation to allow continued use of the scheme on equines imported to the UK. It also suggests those affected consider making a protective claim to HMRC in respect of the difference between the VAT payable on the full selling price, and the VAT payable under the margin scheme.

You might also be interested in:

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Graham Fletcher: ‘It’s an exasperating situation’ *H&H Plus*

Nina Barbour: ‘A horrible wake-up call for everyone’

‘I sat on the ramp and cried’: top riders’ welfare fears after horses delayed for hours in transit

Horse & Hound magazine, out every Thursday, is packed with all the latest news and reports, as well as interviews, specials, nostalgia, vet and training advice. Find how you can enjoy the magazine delivered to your door every week, plus options to upgrade your subscription to access our online service that brings you breaking news and reports as well as other benefits. 

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

Purchasing a horse at whatever budget you have is only the beginning; the ongoing cost of owning a horse is the most important figure in terms of what you can afford to maintain. But there are several ways of experiencing the joys of having what feels like your own horse to ride, without the financial commitment of full ownership. Horse & Hound compares approximate costs of owning a horse outright, sharing and having lessons on a riding school horse.

Cost of owning a horse

Unless you have the luxury of being able to keep your horse at your own home, your heaviest monthly cost of owning a horse will be the livery bill. The bare minimum annual expenditure for a horse kept on livery will be around £85 a month (grass livery for a hardy pony) going up to £1,ooo–£1,600 a month for a horse stabled on full competition livery. Prices will depend on location, the facilities at the stables and the level of care offered.

DIY livery is at face value a much cheaper way of keeping your horse than part or full, but remember to factor in the costs of feed, bedding, forage, and the responsibility of needing to be at the yard twice a day, or pay for cover whenever you away. Expect to pay in the region of £120-300 per month.

Whatever livery package you choose, additional costs will push it significantly above the flat monthly fee.

Typical routine “extras” include:

• Shoeing: every four to six weeks at around £80-95 per new set
• Dentistry: regular check-ups, either six-monthly or at least annually, at a cost of around £80 for a full examination plus rasping
• Vaccinations: equine flu jabs need to be done at least annually, but some competition authorities require every six months. These are around £35 (£45 with tetanus) and you usually have to pay a call-out fee, too
• Insurance: this depends completely on the value of your horse, what you do with him, and the depth of cover you go for. Costs can vary from around £50 per month into the thousands.

This is by no means a comprehensive list – the saddle fitter and physio are additional costs, and there will inevitably be vets’ bills at some point. There are other one-off costs, such as tack and rugs, plus regular less expensive items that soon add up, for example: supplements, worming and grooming products. And this is before you even start on transport or training.

Sharing a horse

If you own a horse and want some breathing space on the monthly bills, finding someone to share your horse who will shoulder some of the financial burden is worth consideration. It’s essential to have a contract and appropriate insurance, even between friends, so that you both know where you stand in case anything untoward occurs.

Sharing contracts vary enormously. Typically, the owner will allocate a number of days for the sharer to ride the horse in exchange for a financial contribution and sometimes yard duties. The contribution tends to vary according to the riding ability of the sharer (for instance, they may be adding value to the horse through their schooling), whether they wish to compete and so on. If an owner is short of time and is seeking a sharer so they don’t have to pay someone to ride their horse, they may allow the sharer to pay nothing. On the other hand, they may want as much as half the cost of the livery, or for the sharer to pay for the farrier for example.

From the owner’s point of view, this reduces the monthly costs, while they retain their overall responsibility for the horse (and the asset should they wish to sell). For the sharer, they have no long-term financial commitment, and may find a nice horse to ride – and sometimes compete – without a major investment. If they decide they no longer enjoy riding the horse, either they or the horse suffers an injury or their funds dry up, they can move on without any responsibility. Conversely, if the owner decides to sell, they are likely to lose the ride.

Taking lessons at a riding school

Riding lessons might seem expensive as a one-off cost, but if you can only ride once a week and don’t have your own horse, this is often the most viable option. And there’s the benefit that you are learning and therefore making progress in your riding. You can often build up a rapport with a certain horse or pony, giving you some of the experience of having your own horse.

As with the two previous options, the range in costs are as long as a piece of string. Prices are much higher in the south of the country, and again within London’s commuter belt. For example, an hour’s private lesson in the centre of London could set you back as much as £145, while in Leicester it might be only £36. It also depends on the level of instructor – a highly qualified senior instructor will charge up to 50% more than one with lower qualifications.

Then there are variations in cost according to the type of lesson you want. A group lesson will be cheaper than a private one, and although you won’t have the intensity of one-to-one tuition, there’s plenty to be gained from watching other riders, listening to the instructor’s comments and making friends. Booking a block of lessons is likely to earn you a discount. Bear in mind, you will usually have to pay around £2–5 to hire a hat if you don’t bring your own.

For younger riders, many riding schools offer “pony days”, which allow for time both riding and learning to look after horses. Week-long camps also work out a better value for money in terms of hours spent in the saddle and gaining valuable education.

Some riding schools will offer hacks in the countryside or on the beach – these are often cheaper per hour than a lesson in an arena, although you won’t be benefitting from the same level of tuition.

It’s worth checking out if the riding school offers cheaper lessons during the week; weekends are often more expensive due to demand.

Most expensive of all lessons is hiring a schoolmaster to teach you the more advanced movements and jumping. Few centres offer this (subject to riding ability), and you’ll need to budget around £130 depending on the level of the instructor.

Like many hobbies, horses are expensive, but there is a vast range of options to suit more budgets than you might think.

NB: All prices given here are approximate and are based on prices correct in March 2022.

You might also like:

How much does a horse cost a month? H&H does the maths so you don’t have to…

Sharing horses: dos and donts

Advice to help make sharing your horse a success

Cost of living squeeze: what it means for horse owners and equestrian businesses

Buying a horse: Horse & Hound’s ultimate step-by-step guide

The 7 stages of a horse lover’s life (from jumping broom handles to sensible cobs)

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

International grand prix dressage rider and trainer Anna Ross discusses educational apprenticeships and why good horses don’t come cheap

TWO weeks ago, it was National Apprenticeship Week, and there has been much discussion about equestrian degrees and colleges, particularly whether they adequately prepare students for the industry. After all, it is one that ultimately needs staff who can read a horse, not a textbook.

Apprenticeship schemes provide learning “on the job”, overseen by a college supervisor, and I have been fortunate to have had many great apprentices who have gone on to carve successful careers. Then again, those who enter into it without an open mind are unlikely to find themselves on podiums in the future.

I have several great long-term staff who came up through the scheme, including international and grand prix riders Beth Bainbridge (pictured above) and Alex Baker, along with the up-and-coming Jess Ralton, who now help train our teams of apprentice riders as well as our horses.

Some college students, though academically gifted, lack experience and therefore have a false sense of security around untrained sport horses. Even if students are taught correct protocol at colleges, the consequences of being unprepared can remain undemonstrated.

One such student was recently reluctant to use protective gear to lunge a young horse. “Gloves or skin graft,” I overheard Jess ask cheerily…

In my experience, there are plenty of young people out there who are happy to work hard if their own hopes and dreams are being fulfilled.

The real cost of producing young sport horses

WE’VE had brisk sales of young horses at Elite Dressage recently, so I read with interest the recent feature in Horse & Hound magazine about the cost of buying a horse (3 February).

If the real costs of labour, housing, broodmare investment, vet fees, semen costs, failed attempts and keep fees are taken into account, it costs around £15,000 to bring a purpose-bred young dressage horse to three years old.

Costs after this point increase considerably as it needs to be backed and trained in preparation for a new partner. Most clients want horses that have been to a couple of shows in the hope that it will not take off like a greyhound out of the traps the first time it hears the judges’ bell, or perform a full pike and twist at its first sight of the warm-up arena.

Giving a horse these early experiences may take an experienced rider and handler half a day at a time. Approximately four to five hours for two skilled people at just minimum wage is over £100, plus affiliation, entry fees and travel coming to another £100 – the costs of that good education add up fast.

What’s the solution for riders with lower budgets? Breeding a horse themselves out of a solid mare using a proven stallion, or buying a younger horse can spread the costs. Yearlings and two-year-olds can represent good value, or perhaps wait a year longer and save the money you would have spent on livery in that time to put towards the purchase price?

Consider whether the horse needs to be a purpose-bred warmblood for the job required. Does it need a perfect set of X-rays if it has a good history of soundness? Is it the end of the world if it has a minor stable “vice” or a small sarcoid? And do bear in mind that walks and canters need to be bought,

but a good trot can definitely be created.

If a purpose-bred dressage horse is backed, competed and sold for less than £20,000 at four years old, it’s likely someone is making a loss. There can be genuine reasons, but it’s wise for the buyer to be aware of this.

Some clients request the dressage equivalent of Red Rum with a similar winning record but without his well publicised soundness issues – along with a guarantee it will never be sick, sorry, lazy or crazy – for less than the cost of production.

This sort of unicorn does exist but it has wheels or rockers, not hooves and a heartbeat.

• What do you think is a fair price for a horse? Let us know at hhletters@futurenet.com

This exclusive column will also be published in Horse & Hound magazine, on sale Thursday 24 February

You may also be interested in…

How much does it cost to breed a horse? H&H crunches the numbers

‘For a small-scale breeder, every foal has to count’: Meet the breeder of one of Britain’s most exciting young horses

How to master sitting trot: top tips to help you become dressage ready

How to teach a horse extended trot – and other training tips from Anna Ross

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

If you’re not put off by the prospect of keeping a grey horse clean, take a look at this selection of grey horses for sale on the Horse & Hound website this week, or if none of the below suit your needs, start your search for your next horse here. Our website has more horses than ever currently listed for sale – thanks to our partnership with SEIB, we are now offering all standard horse for sale adverts for free. Have you got a horse to sell? Place your free advert here

1. ‘Real life unicorn’

Height: 16.1hh

Gender: gelding

Age: 10

Selling points: “‘Jimmy’ is nothing short of the perfect gentleman. He is extremely easy to do and a “been there, done it” type. He has evented in his younger years when he was purchased by someone who works at his yard and was used more of a happy hacker for the past few years. We have done some schooling with Jimmy where he is a push button ride for a competent enough rider. Equally he would teach a competent novice the ropes. He is keen to a fence with a good technique and is excellent out hacking – fine on his own and in company. He has never bucked/reared etc. and has no vices. He would be the perfect mother/daughter share.”

View the advert

2. ‘Willing temperament’

Height: 17hh

Gender: gelding

Age: five

Selling points: “This horse has been showjumping and cross-country schooling with a willing temperament and good jump. He hacks out alone or in company and is good with traffic. He has lots of potential as a hunt horse or master’s horse. He is good to handle and lives in or out. He is keen to learn and enjoys work.”

View the advert

Find other horses for sale in Galway

3. ‘Huge amount of scope’

Height: 17hh

Gender: mare

Age: 12

Selling points: “This mare is currently jumping at Discovery level British Showjumping (BS). She is super-careful with a huge amount of scope to go higher. She is straightforward with no vices.”

View the advert

Find other horses for sale in Somerset

4. ‘Beautiful’

Height: 15.2hh

Gender: gelding

Age: 13

Selling points: “This beautiful Connemara is an absolute gentleman in every way. He is a proven riding club horse, completing the Scottish Championships at 80cm level horse trials with a top 10 finish, sub-30 dressage and a clear cross-country. He is BD (British Dressage) registered and is competing at prelim level and has qualified for the summer and winter Area finals, as well as the Scottish Championships. He is comfortably flying round 95cm/1m showjumping, as well as 80cm unaffiliated one-day events. He has numerous wins in showjumping, working hunter, cross-country and dressage. He has gorgeous manners and is perfect to travel and with the vet, farrier etc. He needs a confident rider who wants to be out competing as he thrives on getting out and about. He has taken part in various fun rides, beach rides etc and led ponies with no issues. He hacks alone or in company and has no issues with traffic etc.”

View the advert

Find other horses for sale in Fife

5. ‘The perfect horse’

Height: 16.2hh

Gender: gelding

Age: nine

Selling points: “‘Boy’ is a very easy going horse, who loves to please. He is ridden by the whole family, from an 11-year-old girl to the older rider. He hacks alone and in company and is good to shoe, box, catch and in traffic. He has done a bit of everything including showjumping, cross-country, hunter trials and fun rides, where he will stay at the back or take the lead. He is very well-mannered.”

View the advert

Find other horses for sale in Shropshire

NB: Horse & Hound has not checked the accuracy of the claims made in these adverts and cannot be held liable if the information included above is inaccurate in any way

You may also be interested in…

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Horse & Hound magazine, out every Thursday, is packed with all the latest news and reports, as well as interviews, specials, nostalgia, vet and training advice. Find how you can enjoy the magazine delivered to your door every week, plus options to upgrade your subscription to access our online service that brings you breaking news and reports as well as other benefits.

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

If you’re in search of a horse to cross the country with in style, take a look at this selection of hunters for sale on the Horse & Hound website this week, or if none of the below suit your needs, start your search for your next horse here. Our website has more horses than ever currently listed for sale – thanks to our partnership with SEIB, we are now offering all standard horse for sale adverts for free. Have you got a horse to sell? Place your free advert here

1. ‘The perfect horse’

Height: 16.2hh

Gender: gelding

Age: nine

Selling points: “‘Boy’ is a very easy going horse, who loves to please. He is ridden by the whole family, from an 11-year-old girl to the older rider. He hacks alone and in company and is good to shoe, box, catch and in traffic. He has done a bit of everything including showjumping, cross-country, hunter trials and fun rides. He will stay at the back or take the lead and is very well-mannered.”

View the advert

Find other horses for sale in Shropshire

2. ‘Very quiet’

Height: 16.2hh

Gender: gelding

Age: four

Selling points: “‘Ramos’ was imported from Ireland back in the summer, lightly broken and passing a two stage vetting. He has been out autumn hunting and hacking and is very quiet horse.”

View the advert

Find other horses for sale in West Sussex

3. ‘Kind and genuine’

Height: 15.2hh

Gender: gelding

Age: four

Selling points: “This is a very mature horse and he is riding well for his age. He has been on fun rides this summer, to the beach and is now out being lightly autumn hunted. He is good to hack and not fazed by traffic or anything much really. A truly kind and genuine little horse.”

View the advert

4. ‘Super’

Height: 15.1hh

Gender: mare

Age: 10

Selling points: “This mare has done a little bit of everything, including riding club, cross-country, hunter trials etc. She hacks alone or in company and stands to open and close gates. She’s nicely forward and would be great for endurance and pleasure riding. She loves to jump and has a phenomenal amount of scope. She has no stable vices and is currently out in a small herd. She recently had her teeth and jabs done and is good with the farrier. She has very mild arthritic changes to he hock that may need maintenance down the line but that doesn’t bother her at present.”

View the advert

Find other horses for sale in Manchester

5. ‘Fantastic’

Height: 16.2hh

Gender: mare

Age: seven

Selling points: “This bay mare is a fantastic all-rounder that has been on fun rides and hacks and she showjumps and hunts too. She is capable of much more than I can do with her and she loves to jump. She loads first time every time and is good to catch etc.”

View the advert

Find other horses for sale in Lancashire

NB: Horse & Hound has not checked the accuracy of the claims made in these adverts and cannot be held liable if the information included above is inaccurate in any way

You might also be interested in:

Love a ginger? Take a look at this great selection of chestnuts you need in your life

If you love nothing more than a chestnut, take a look at this selection for sale on the Horse &

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Horse & Hound magazine, out every Thursday, is packed with all the latest news and reports, as well as interviews, specials, nostalgia, vet and training advice. Find how you can enjoy the magazine delivered to your door every week, plus options to upgrade your subscription to access our online service that brings you breaking news and reports as well as other benefits. 

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

If you’re the kind of rider that loves to take part in a variety of disciplines, take a look at this selection of all-rounders for sale on the Horse & Hound website this week, or if none of the below suit your needs, start your search for your next horse here. Our website has more horses than ever currently listed for sale – thanks to our partnership with SEIB, we are now offering all standard horse for sale adverts for free. Have you got a horse to sell? Place your free advert here.

1. ‘True all-rounder’

Height: 15.2hh

Gender: mare

Age: seven

Selling points: “This is a true all-rounder. She absolutely loves jumping but is suitable for varied activities including showjumping, cross-country, hunter trials, working hunter and beach/charity rides. She is great to hack on her own or in company and has also done two 10-mile charity rides with jumps. She qualified for the Hickstead Sunshine showjumping tour at 70/80cm and recently jumped double clear at her first unaffiliated 80cm one-day event. She takes confidence from her rider and needs competent riding to get the best out of her. She can be mareish at times on the ground, but is so easy and respectful for an experienced handler. She is a generally loveable, sensible, go-anywhere type of horse.”

View the advert

Find other horses for sale in Hampshire

2. ‘Worth his weight in gold’

Height: 17.1hh

Gender: gelding

Age: eight

Selling points: “I bought ‘Motley’ for my daughter when she was 14 and he’s taken her from only being able to jump small fences to schooling round novice fences at home and competing at BE90 level. They don’t come more honest and genuine than him – I’ll happily let anyone get on him knowing he’ll look after them. He adjusts well to his riders, whether you want something to grab onto and take you into fences or trot, canter round on the buckle and pop some fences without changing at all. He is fab traveling and riding with new horses – I’ll happily let my daughter go off with her friends horses and know he will look after her and listen to her no matter what the other horses are doing. He’s been schooled every day at home in a big open field and he’s fab out in big open spaces and the brakes are always there. He loves his cross-country, is fab for the farrier, dentist and loves the physio. He’s clipped out every couple of months and he stands like a gentleman while being done and loves to have a hot bath. He’s a gentle giant on the ground, has never bitten or kicked and will stand all day to get groomed. His temperament stays the same while out at shows, he stands on the trailer and you won’t hear anything of him. This horse is worth his weight in gold.”

View the advert

Find other horses for sale in Cheshire

3. ‘Talented little horse’

Height: 15.2hh

Gender: mare

Age: six

Selling points: “This part-bred cob has the scope for dressage, showjumping and eventing. She has done a bit of everything and is a talented little horse, but not a novice ride. She is easy to clip, tie, load, catch etc.”

View the advert

4. ‘Seasoned hunter’

Height: 15.2hh

Gender: mare

Age: 13

Selling points: “This is a seasoned hunt horse. She is currently hunting with the Staffs College drag hunt and can be tried out hunting at a cost. She has cross-country schooled and hacks alone.”

View the advert

5. ‘Gold dust dream horse’

Height: 16.3hh

Gender: gelding

Age: 12

Selling points: “This horse is well put together with a good amount of limb and an exceptional mover. He is schooled up to elementary level dressage and has 144 British Dressage points (74 of which are elementary). As well as being a delight on the flat, this boy can jump, proving better at showjumping than cross-country, however dressage is his best discipline. Although he is beautifully schooled in all three paces and has a very kind and willing attitude, he is not a novice ride. He would suit a late teen/adult wanting to learn and go up the ranks. This horse is very easy to do in every way and a complete dream to handle – he has been handled and led by a 10-year-old child – and is excellent to box, travel, shoe etc. A total gold dust dream horse in every way.”

View the advert

Find other horses for sale in Surrey

NB: Horse & Hound has not checked the accuracy of the claims made in these adverts and cannot be held liable if the information included above is inaccurate in any way

You might also be interested in:

Buying a horse: Horse & Hound’s ultimate step-by-step guide

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Horse & Hound magazine, out every Thursday, is packed with all the latest news and reports, as well as interviews, specials, nostalgia, vet and training advice. Find how you can enjoy the magazine delivered to your door every week, plus options to upgrade your subscription to access our online service that brings you breaking news and reports as well as other benefits. 

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

If you have a healthy budget to spend on you next horse then perhaps one of these will be for you? Take a look at our selection of horses priced £20,000 and over for sale on the Horse & Hound website this week, or if none of the below suit your needs, start your search for your next horse here. Our website has more horses than ever currently listed for sale – thanks to our new partnership with SEIB Insurance Brokers, we are now offering all standard horse for sale adverts for free. Have you got a horse to sell? Place your free advert here

1. ‘Outstanding quality’

Height: 14.3hh

Gender: gelding

Age: eight

Selling points: “This horse has beauty, brains, and a friendly character. He is not only a beautiful sport gelding but also a fantastic character and has spectacular movement with amazing paces. He is always pleasant and easy to ride. A bombproof schoolmaster who is suitable for all categories of riders; a real family horse and he could be a perfect guide and teacher for children/beginners/novices yet fancy enough for professionals to break records in arenas. He does not buck nor rear and is not spooky and is an honest horse that will never hurt you. He is easy to handle and well-behaved. He is used to road traffic, tractors, engine noises, and the like. He has a clean health record with a five-stage vetting with X-rays available.”

View the advert

Find other horses for sale in Cornwall

2. ‘Great presence’

Height: 15.2hh

Gender: mare

Age: five

Selling points: “This mare is by Celtic Hero x Ustinov. She is currently competing successfully at 1.20m level and is a very brave, easy ride. She has a super step and great presence. She would make a cracking working hunter or young rider/children on horses prospect. She has a full set of clean X-rays and no lumps, bumps or splints etc.”

View the advert

Find other horses for sale in Waterford

3. ‘A unique opportunity’

Height: 16.2hh

Gender: mare

Age: seven

Selling points: “This horse is an amateur’s dream or a professional’s opportunity. She by Baltic VDL out of a Tygo/Numero Uno mare. She has been produced slowly and carefully, given time to mature and never rushed. She has already qualified for second rounds newcomers and Foxhunter for 2022. She has just stepped up to 1.25m level and is extremely brave and careful and totally unfazed by anything. ‘Tina’ is a pleasure to have in the yard, is easy at shows and always tries her best. She hacks out alone and in company and is perfect in traffic. Tina is straightforward in every way, and would definitely event, but is careful enough for pure showjumping. This is a unique opportunity to buy a well-bred mare at the start of her career. She would suit any type of rider looking for a schoolmistress and competitive horse.”

View the advert

Find other horses for sale in West Sussex

4. ‘Talented’

Height: 16.2hh

Gender: gelding

Age: 11

Selling points: “This Irish Sports Horse, by ARS Vivendi, is super-good looking, and a talented showjumper with a lovely character. He is a level-headed, confidence-giving horse. He is easily jumping 1.20m and 1.3m0 classes and has qualified in the winter for many classes such as the Blue Chip Karma Performance, Foxhunter and 1.25m Winter Championship. He moves beautifully and would suit a confident amateur and/or teenager, who wants to learn and move up the classes, having fun. He is quick against the clock and good to shoe, hack, travel, etc. He is a lovely boy to have around in the stable and at shows. I have had him since he was five and is for sale through no fault of his own. A good home is wanted for him, where the rider can enjoy him and have fun. I expect he would be happy doing cross-country too as nothing fazes him.”

View the advert

Find other horses for sale in East Sussex

5. ‘Extravagant’

Height: 16.3hh

Gender: colt

Age: three

Selling points: “This colt is by Ramexico/Ramiro Z and has extravagant action. He is just being backed.”

View the advert

Find other horses for sale in Devon

NB: Horse & Hound has not checked the accuracy of the claims made in these adverts and cannot be held liable if the information included above is inaccurate in any way

You might also be interested in:

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Horse & Hound magazine, out every Thursday, is packed with all the latest news and reports, as well as interviews, specials, nostalgia, vet and training advice. Find how you can enjoy the magazine delivered to your door every week, plus options to upgrade your subscription to access our online service that brings you breaking news and reports as well as other benefits.

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

Are you looking for a horse that you can do a bit of everything with, while being reasonably robust and low maintenance to look after?

While we can’t promise all cobs will fit this description, there are many out there that do, so take a look at our pick of cobs for sale on the Horse & Hound website this week, or if none of the below suit your needs, start your search for your next horse here. Our website has more horses than ever currently listed for sale – thanks to our partnership with SEIB, we are now offering all standard horse for sale adverts for free. Have you got a horse to sell? Place your free advert here.

1. ‘Worth his weight in gold’

Height: 15.1hh

Gender: gelding

Age: 10

Selling points: “This horse is a very quiet confidence giver. ‘Danny’ is a stunning Irish gelding, that is a quiet horse and will suit a novice rider, mother/daughter share or riding school. He is a star hacking – good in traffic, he knows all kind of farm machinery and he hacks out alone or in company. Danny is schooled on the flat, over coloured poles and over cross-country fences. He is honest, brave and always willing to please. He’s doing lovely flat work, has a soft snaffle mouth and rides into a nice outline. Danny is jumping up to 90cm, he has hunted and done charity rides. He is a pleasure to work with and a friendly horse with a lovely nature. He is easy to shoe, box, catch, clip, ride and in traffic. He can be ridden on the buckle down the road – he is an absolute star! Danny is a horse hard to find and definitely worth his weight in gold. He has no stable vices and is open to any vetting.”

View the advert

Find other horses for sale in Laois

2. ‘Super’

Height: 13hh

Gender: gelding

Age: eight

Selling points: “‘Thunder’ is a super flashy looking chap that will make a great child’s competition or Pony Club pony. He is schooling very well in all three paces, with a snaffle mouth at all times – he never gets strong or silly and is light and respectful to the hand and leg. He pops around a small course of fences and is not at all fazed by coloured or rustic fences. He hacks out alone or in company, will go first or last and is good with traffic. He has been previously shown and has been to the beach. Thunder is such a sweet, honest pony, who is so willing to please.”

View the advert

Find other horses for sale in Norfolk

3. ‘Beautiful’

Height: 13.2hh

Gender: gelding

Age: 11

Selling points: “This pony has been a genuine all-rounder. He loves to jump, will hack out alone or in company, has hunted previously and is a great, fun, forward ride so no novices please. He is a wonderful character that the whole family will fall in love with. He is good to load and travel, is good for farrier and has always been kept barefoot.”

View the advert

Find other horses for sale in Shropshire

4. ‘Mother’s dream’

Height: 13.3hh

Gender: mare

Age: eight

Selling points: “Meet ‘Saffy’, the superstar pony that’s fabulous in every way. Saffy hacks exceptionally well, completely safe in open spaces and the heaviest of traffic. She hunts very well, is fabulous to handle and never sick or sorry. Saffy has taken her current rider from un-confident and incredibly nervous to having had the best time and most wonderful experiences, including unaffiliated shows, hunting, cross-country schooling, beach rides and much more.”

View the advert

Find other horses for sale in Suffolk

5. ‘Rare opportunity’

Height: 16hh

Gender: gelding

Age: 14

Selling points: “We have had ‘Cranny’ since he was three. He is 100% in every way and safe on the roads, at the beach and in the forest. He has no vices, and is a very easy, gentle horse. He is for sale due to downsizing our trekking/holiday business.”

View the advert

Find other horses for sale in Sligo

NB: Horse & Hound has not checked the accuracy of the claims made in these adverts and cannot be held liable if the information included above is inaccurate in any way

Would you like to read Horse & Hound’s independent journalism without any adverts? Join Horse & Hound Plus today and you can read all articles on HorseandHound.co.uk completely ad-free

You might also be interested in:

5 cracking Connemara ponies for sale (you’ll want them all)

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Horse & Hound magazine, out every Thursday, is packed with all the latest news and reports, as well as interviews, specials, nostalgia, vet and training advice. Find how you can enjoy the magazine delivered to your door every week, plus options to upgrade your subscription to access our online service that brings you breaking news and reports as well as other benefits.

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

Who doesn’t love a Connemara? This versatile and hardy breed is a favourite for many. From hunters and showjumpers to Pony Club ponies, here’s our pick of Connemara ponies for sale on the H&H website this week, or if none of the below suit your needs, start your search for your next horse here. Our website has more horses than ever currently listed for sale – thanks to our partnership with SEIB, we are now offering all standard horse for sale adverts for free. Have you got a horse to sell? Place your free advert here.

1. ‘Beautiful’

Height: 14.2hh

Gender: mare

Age: five

Selling points: “This pony was bought as a project in the spring and has been professionally backed and schooled over the past few months. She is very gentle and loves being groomed, pampered and given lots of attention. She will follow you around the field “helping” with poo picking. She is snaffle mouthed and responsive to the rider’s aids, with balanced paces, walking, trotting and cantering on both reins. She hacks out and is well behaved in open spaces. However, she is not a novice ride as she is still a little green and sensitive but will take confidence from the rider. She has no known vices, lumps, bumps scars or blemishes. We are looking for her forever home, where her gentle nature can be fully appreciated.”

View the advert

Find other horses for sale in Suffolk

2. ‘Ideal project’

Height: 15hh

Gender: gelding

Age: three

Selling points: “‘Troy’ has been professionally broken this summer. He has a very trainable and willing attitude and is showing a nice jump and good movement on the flat. He is hacking out alone and in company and has been on hound exercise already this autumn, where he was extremely well behaved and took it all in his stride. He is already doing some good work on the flat and is an event/working hunter prospect. He will make an ideal project for someone to bring on for themselves, or produce and make a profit on. He is good in all ways with no vices. Open to any vetting/trial/trainer. He will not be sold to total novice due to his age/experience.”

View the advert

Find other horses for sale in Warwickshire

3. ‘Talented’

Height: 14hh

Gender: gelding

Age: five

Selling points: “This striking gelding stands out in any crowd. He has flashy, straight, uphill paces and so much jump! Standing at 14hh makes him perfect for working hunter classes. This pony has no vices and will take a confident jockey to the top in any chosen discipline.”

View the advert

Find other horses for sale in Berkshire

4. ‘Future star’

Height: 15hh

Gender: gelding

Age: five

Selling points: “This is an athletic purebred Connemara gelding has a great future ahead of him. ‘Robbie’ is a stunning, well-bred purebred Connemara with a lovely kind temperament. He is nice to ride, loves jumping and is an athletic pony with the will to perform and to please. He rides beautifully on the flat and has been well schooled over cross-country and showjumping fences. He is a forward going pony but always controllable and always ridden in a snaffle. He could make a very good event type or working hunter. He has everything you need to win; three beautiful and expressive paces and he is a comfortable ride with a soft snaffle mouth. He has a fantastic jump and has jumped up to 1.20m loose with potential for more – he has a great technique. Robbie is always motivated and willing to please – he could excel in any discipline in the future – his strength is dressage and jumping but he also loves cross-country. He is easy to shoe, box, catch, ride and in traffic and he hacks out alone or in company. Robbie should suit a competition home, teenager or experienced mother/daughter share. He has no stable vices and is open for any vetting.”

View the advert

Find other horses for sale in Laois

5. ‘Top prospect’

Height: 15hh

Gender: mare

Age: four

Selling points: “Recently over from Ireland, this stunning, talented cCnnemara out of I Love you Melody and Corrib Prince is excelling in all disciplines since arriving. She hacks out alone or in company and has enormous potential jumping and schooling. She would suit a competent teenager or young adult wanting to go far.”

View the advert

Find other horses for sale in Buckinghamshire

NB: Horse & Hound has not checked the accuracy of the claims made in these adverts and cannot be held liable if the information included above is inaccurate in any way

You might also be interested in:

These ponies have it all: could one of them be your future star?

If you’re searching for a pint-sized superstar, take a look at this selection of proven and potential top competition ponies

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Horse & Hound magazine, out every Thursday, is packed with all the latest news and reports, as well as interviews, specials, nostalgia, vet and training advice. Find how you can enjoy the magazine delivered to your door every week, plus options to upgrade your subscription to access our online service that brings you breaking news and reports as well as other benefits.

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now