Occupying stabled horses is always important, but especially if they can’t be in their field as much as usual. Box rest or weather-related reasons are common culprits for restricted turnout, leaving owners seeking out boredom busters for horses.

An extended time in the stable can be challenging, particularly as we know the pros of turnout for horses. Movement and a constant supply of forage both promote equine wellbeing, from gut health to mental welfare, and these factors are harder to uphold in a stable environment.

So, how to keep stabled horses happy and healthy? If your horse is facing a period of box rest or reduced time out, fear not. I’ve navigated increased stable time with horses over my 20 years of ownership, as have most of the team at H&H.

Here are our helpful tips for occupying stabled horses.

Occupying stabled horses: five things to try today

1. Increase your horse’s chewing time

If you’ve ever Googled “how much hay to feed a horse”, the answer is always ad-lib is best. It’s definitely true that we want a steady stream of forage trickling through our horses’ digestive systems, but difficulties arise if a horse is overweight. Forage delivers calories, and unlimited forage can deliver too many, especially to a stabled horse who isn’t using that energy to move or keep warm.

So, what to do? The general consensus among equine nutritionists is that a horse’s daily forage intake should not drop below 1.5% of his bodyweight on a dry matter basis. While this makes it possible to calculate how much a horse should eat (for example, a 500kg horse should eat a dry weight of at least 7.5kg per day, which accounting for 12% moisture is around 8.5kg in hay), it probably wouldn’t allow for constant chewing when served as a pile on the floor.

Try chew time-extending products

This is where extending a horse’s chewing time becomes important. If your horse is chewing, he’s producing stomach acid-buffering saliva and receiving mental stimulation – big wins for a stabled horse.

You can achieve this by using small-holed haynets, slow feeders or, my current personal favourite, forage blocks (like these on Amazon). My 25-year-old mare is on pen rest right now, which is basically box rest with a view, and she’s really enjoying chewing on them. They’re 1kg, and last her about 30 minutes – 1kg of hay would be hoovered up far more quickly!

2. Ease boredom with a stable toy

The best stable toys have a variety of textures to explore, offer a tasty treat to lick or nibble on, or might have a dynamic element, so your horse can move them around. There’s a huge range out there so you can tailor your choice to your horse’s personality.

Some are easily pleased and inquisitive and won’t need enticing with something food-based, like one of the best licks. My gelding is quite happy to simply throw around an empty feed bucket, for example!

Others might prefer a hanging forage block (which just require a mini net, like this one), or a treat ball to push around. If your horse eats a cube or pelleted feed balancer, this could be a creative way to enrich and extend mealtimes.

3. Try an in-stable workout

Do you know the origin of Pilates? To put it briefly, it was the brainchild of Joseph Pilates. He was a prisoner in an internment camp on the Isle of Man during World War I.

Within the confines of the camp, Pilates observed the scrawny athleticism of the native cats who leapt after mice and rats. Inspired, he developed a fitness method that stretched and strengthened the body; thus, Pilates was born.

Jenny Adamson, an equine physiotherapy and rehab specialist, says that stabled horses can benefit from similar stretches from the confines of their box – it could strengthen and entertain your horse, too.

“My favourite in-stable exercise is the backwards weight push,” she tells H&H. “It’s a small but really effective exercise for mobilising the thoracic sling [muscles that connect the forelimb to the trunk] and core. It’s a great multi-tasker!”

How to do it

• Position the heel of your hand on the sternum bone (as shown above).
• Gently push back so your horse moves his trunk, not his legs, back around an inch.
• Let his weight come forward again, to produce a slow rocking motion.
• Repeat 10 times.

“When done correctly they really relax,” Jenny continues. “Over time, it helps to loosen the shoulders, withers, and take some of the weight out of the forehand.

“It also activates some of the deeper stabilisers within the body. Don’t be fooled by its simplicity, or how small the movement is!”

Before embarking on an extensive programme of exercises, Jenny recommends seeking professional guidance. There are online courses, like hers, you can sign up to.

“If you go slowly through the exercises, your horse will show you where he’s stiff and how far he can go in each movement,” Jenny adds.

“Initially, stop just before the point he starts to twist or avoid or move around. Stay within his “easy zone” to start with and build up slowly from there.”

4. Devote some proper time to bonding

When I reflect on time spent with my horses, I realise much of it is purely functional. I groom them just to get them clean, I go into their field just to poo pick and so on. I often wish I spent time with them with the sole purpose of improving our bond.

When features editor Martha Terry’s horse was on box rest, she did just that.

“When my gelding had a fractured splint, he was in for 10 weeks,” she said. “The unexpected blessing was the opportunity to try out things with him that I hadn’t previously prioritised or had time to do.

“One thing I found he really enjoyed was the bladder meridian technique, which is an acupressure technique to release tension and emotional stress,” she continues. “A friend recommended trying it so I looked it up on a Jim Masterson YouTube video.

“I had no idea what I was doing, but I felt that I could do no harm as you’re barely touching the horse.”

How Martha did it

“Essentially you trace the energy lines from the poll right down the side of the spine to the heel on the hind leg,” she explains.

“Go very slowly, and watch for any reactions like a blink or lip quiver. If they react, halt your progress and wait for a release signal, such as a yawn.

“Who knows whether it makes any difference, but my horse is a sparky chap who doesn’t always like being touched and he definitely enjoyed this once he got used to it, and it helped me to become more in tune with his reactions.”

5. Teach your horse a new skill

Occupying stabled horses can also involve a mental workout. You can tax a horse’s brain by having him learn something new, as website editor Carol Phillips has done by teaching horses to self-halter and -bridle.

“I am not a positive reinforcement training expert in any way, but I have taught a few horses to put their head into a headcollar and to open their mouth to take the bit when they are presented with a bridle,” she says.

The goal of the training is for the horse to lower his head, push his nose into the noseband and keep it there so you can fasten the headcollar.

Carol says it’s important to break the process down into manageable, bite-sized steps and approach the task as a bit of fun.

“It doesn’t help if you get too intense about it,” she explains. “If it’s not working one day, put it aside and try again another day.”

You will need food rewards to teach this; Carol adds that the treats should be low-value to avoid your horse becoming pushy.

How Carol did it

Carol says:

• The horse first needs to understand that a particular noise means “that’s good” or “do more of that”. This can be trained using a clicker or just a particular word and tone, which works as the bridge signal. I then give scratches or a low-value food reward like chaff to help them understand that this is the desired behaviour.
• Once that basic understanding is in place, I stand beside them on their near side and hold the headcollar open in front of them slightly in front of their nose. Most horses are inquisitive enough to stretch their nose towards it.
• When they move their head very slightly in the desired direction I give my vocal praise sound. Then, I move the headcollar away and give the reward. I repeat this process until they choose to touch the headcollar with their nose.
• Once they can touch the headcollar, the next step is learning to push their nose into the noseband to get the reward. At this step, I don’t instantly reward them when they touch any part of it, so they will typically start moving their nose around to touch different parts.
• Each time they get closer to putting their nose into the nosepiece, I immediately give praise, remove the headcollar and give the reward. Timing is key here for the horse to understand which behaviour is being rewarded.
• By using gradual steps as their understanding grows, you work towards only rewarding them when they lower their nose into the noseband and hold it still.

“Using this process, I’ve taught horses to put their nose into the headcollar (or to take the bit into their mouth) whenever I present it to them.”

Give it a try

Whatever your time or budget constraints, there’s a stable enrichment tip on this list for you. Let us know how you get on by writing to us at hhletters@futurenet.com, including your name, nearest town and county to be considered for publication in a future issue.

• For unlimited access to advice on how best to care for your horse, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

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A guide to box rest — how to navigate this testing time

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Equine vet Edward Busuttil MRCVS helps explain how to feed the resting horse to aid recovery and maintain welfare

Understanding how to feed a horse on box rest is a challenge for horse owners that requires the horse’s nutritional requirements to be balanced with their welfare needs. An effective feeding strategy must reduced the horse’s calories while continuing to support their digestive, immune and psychological health. Accurate weight estimation, careful energy management and thoughtful forage preparation are key to avoiding complications.

As box rest for horses is normally linked to an injury or illness, feeding for recovery involves more than simply reducing the food ration – it means using nutrition as a tool to preserve wellbeing, reduce stress and promote healing. Careful planning and regular monitoring can help horses on box rest to recover safely and comfortably and return to health with fewer setbacks.

How to feed a horse on box rest

Stabled horses are denied natural behaviours such as grazing, walking and socialising. This can lead to stereotypies like crib-biting, weaving or box walking, alongside signs of anxiety and boredom. Physically, reduced movement can result in weight gain, muscle loss, a slowing of the digestive tract and gastric ulcers.

Nutrition plays a critical role in mitigating these effects – an appropriate feeding plan must address both reduced energy demands and support mental and digestive health.

Accurate body weight estimation is essential for planning a suitable diet. It guides forage allocation, nutrient intake and tracking of weight changes. The gold standard is a weighbridge, but most owners use weigh tapes (like this one) or body measurements. Consider clipping a couple of patches to ensure that your weigh tape consistently passes through the same areas, to avoid artificially “changing” your horse’s weight.

An often used formula is: Weight (kg) = (heart girth² × body length) / 11,880

Although not exact, it provides a useful estimate for monitoring trends over time. Fluctuations in weight, particularly when a horse is on box rest for an extensive period of time, should not be too concerning as muscle mass decreases and posture changes also result in slight changes with your measurements.

Assessing their body condition score could be equally beneficial – ideally, you should be able to feel your horse’s ribs when running your hands along their side, but not be able to see them.

Keep a weekly diary so you’re able to make regular, small tweaks, decreasing the risks of stress and colic associated with sudden alterations to the diet.

With reduced physical activity, energy requirements drop. According to NRC (National Research Council) guidelines, horses need 12.5–15.2MJ of digestible energy (DE) per 100kg body weight daily. Therefore, a 500kg horse typically needs 62.5–76MJ/day under maintenance conditions, but those on box rest often require less. Good-doers may need further reductions to avoid weight gain.

Feeding even slightly more than needed can cause unwanted weight increases, especially with calorie-dense forage types or unnecessary concentrates.

How to support normal gut function on box rest

Fibre plays an essential role when feeding a horse on box rest. It maintains healthy gut function, limits digestive issues like impaction colic and ulcers and, as a long-lasting food source, supports mental wellbeing. A horse’s digestive system slows with reduced movement, so continuous fibre intake – as forage, like hay or haylage – is crucial to keep the gut moving.

Fibre also helps satisfy the horse’s natural urge to chew, reducing boredom and stress while confined. Providing adequate, good-quality fibre is key to keeping a box-rested horse healthy physically and mentally. Forage analysis is available to check quality, and this may be particularly useful in cases of long-term box rest when a consistent hay source will be provided. Poor-quality hay can contain dust and mould, which may trigger or worsen equine asthma.

Soaking hay reduces dust and water-soluble carbohydrates (WSC), helping manage laminitis or weight gain risk, but also leaches minerals like calcium, and palatability and hygienic quality are reduced if hay is soaked for too long. Long soaking (six to eight hours) can encourage microbial growth, especially in warm weather. Soaking and repeatedly lifting and submerging hay for 20 minutes can effectively reduce WSC.

Steaming hay at over 90°C using a commercial hay steamer effectively kills mould spores, bacteria and dust mites, improving respiratory safety. Steaming preserves more nutrients than soaking but does alter protein structure, reducing digestibility. Total crude protein remains stable, but digestible protein may drop by more than 40%, which may require dietary adjustments.

A constant supply of clean fresh water should always be available, alongside a high-forage diet. When temperatures drop, adding some hot water to water buckets may increase the amount the horse drinks. Providing water in buckets for horses on box res, rather than using automatic drinkers, will allow their intake can be monitored.

Avoiding gastric ulcers during box rest

Box rest greatly raises the risk of equine gastric ulcer syndrome, driven by stress and amplified by improper feeding practices. Horses are continuous grazers with stomachs that secrete acid constantly. Without regular forage, stomach acid can damage the unprotected, non-glandular part of the stomach.

To mitigate this, horses should have constant access to low-calorie forage to promote chewing and saliva production, which helps buffer stomach acid. Concentrates, especially high-starch feeds, should be avoided when feeding a horse on box rest.

Alfalfa, with its high calcium content, can help buffer stomach acid. Different companies provide alfalfa chaffs of various flavours to provide food-based enrichment. Alternatively, straw-based chaffs are also available, rich in fibre and low in energy. Unmolassed sugar beet provides digestible fibre and natural pectin and lecithin, which soothe the stomach lining and support gut health in ulcer-prone horses.

Read more about feeding horses to avoid gastric ulcers.

How to feed a good-doer on box rest

With horses that tend to maintain or gain weight easily, the lack of exercise associated with box rest can lead to significant increase in their body condition. It is important to reduce their calorie intact while continuing to provide the essential nutrition to maintain health. This is a necessity with cases where horses are confined owing to laminitis or where horses have an diagnosed with metabolic issues, such as PPID and EMS.

In addition to feeding soaked hay, having hay tested will help owners chose a forage that is low in WSC and therefore less likely to result in weight gain. Feeding forage using small-holed haynets and slow feeders to make the hay ration last as long as possible is also recommended.

Feed balancers can be really useful when feeding a good-doer. Including a feed balancer when feeding a horse on box rest – or vitamin and mineral supplement – alongside a straw-based chaff will ensure the horse receives all the micro nutrients needed during their period of recovery without any extra calories.

How to maintain body condition during box rest

If your horse is a more highly strung type, who struggles with confinement and is likely to worry their weight off during a period of box rest, forage should still be the primary feed source. Good quality hay fed ad-lib, ideally in multiple feed stations located at different heights around the stable, will encourage the horse’s natural foraging instinct and serve to provide enrichment.

If additional calories are required to maintain condition, a fibre- and oil-based concentrate feed will provide extra calories without the risk of disrupting the horse’s gut by feeding starch. High fibre and oil conditioning feeds are also less likely to encourage undesired excitable behaviour when the horse needs to rest. Adding a digestive feed supplement will also help the horse to get the most out of the nutrition provided.

How to promote healing on box rest

Horses recovering from trauma may need more protein in their diet, but most on box rest benefit from moderate-protein hay (under 10%) and diets tailored to actual needs. Alfalfa is a high-protein forage (over 15%) and may increase urination if fed in excess.

Excess protein in a low-exercise diet can lead to increased urea production and higher urinary output. This results in wetter bedding, stronger ammonia odour and possible irritation to the respiratory tract and hooves. If your horse experiences increased urination, wood shavings can provide a far more absorbent bed than straw – but this does not negate the need for frequent mucking out and hoof care.

How to reduce boredom

Box rest restricts natural foraging behaviour, which can increase stress and boredom. Gustatory enrichment – food-based mental stimulation – can reduce frustration and support digestive health.

Offering forage in multiple small nets around the stable, changing hay types or using slow feeders can promote engagement. Low-sugar treats like swede or celery, or hay-based, low-sugar licks, provide sensory stimulation without excess calories. These strategies mimic natural feeding patterns and improve mental wellbeing, keeping horses happier and healthier when stabled.

You can also consider purchasing hay blocks with chamomile (like this one) or making ice blocks with shredded carrot and apple during the warmer months of the year.

There are a range of stable toys and other boredom busters for horses available to help entertain your horse during a period of enforced rest.

How to avoid respiratory problems

Stabled horses are at increased risk of developing respiratory issues, particularly if ventilation is poor or the environment is dusty. Conditions such as recurrent airway obstruction (RAO), commonly known as heaves, can be exacerbated during prolonged periods indoors.

The choice of bedding type and forage is particularly important. Traditional straw can be dusty and should be replaced with low-dust alternatives such as cardboard, paper or high-quality shavings, including lavender-scented brands.

Hay should be soaked or steamed to reduce airborne particles and haylage may be a suitable alternative for some horses. Stable ventilation must be optimised without creating drafts. Open doors, high windows and the use of fans (when safe) can help improve airflow, as well as cleaning away cobwebs and bird nests.

Ammonia build-up from urine is another concern, as it can irritate the airways. Frequent mucking out, and the use of absorbent bedding, can help reduce exposure.

Supplements for a horse on box rest

Targeted feed supplements for horses can support recovery in certain cases:

● digestive supplements with prebiotics and yeast support hindgut health, particularly if antibiotics have been used or if diet changes occur

● ulcer-prone horses may benefit from gastric supplements that contain gastroprotective agents such as lecithin, pectin and buffering compounds, although veterinary treatment may also be required

● omega-3 fatty acids from linseed oil or marine sources support joint and immune function

● vitamin E supplementation is often necessary during periods of box rest, as horses have reduced access to fresh forage. Vitamin E (as d-alpha-tocopherol) is a key antioxidant supporting muscle function, immunity and recovery. Deficiency can lead to stiffness or even neurological signs

● respiratory supplements can also help maintain respiratory health if your horse is at risk of respiratory disease. This can come in the form of omega-3s, MSM (methylsulfonylmethane; which decreases upper airway inflammation) and marshmallow root (which may help to reduce mucus build-up in the lungs)

Knowing how to feed a horse on box rest can be a challenge, but by making the right decisions you can help keep your horse happy and healthy during this period of enforced rest.

If you’re still unsure about feeding a horse on box rest, then we recommend speaking to an independent equine nutritionist. To find a nutrition specialist, visit the British Equestrian Trade Association’s equine nutritionist and feed advisor register.

• For more expert advice on caring for your horse in the best possible way, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

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6 ways to beat boredom in stable-bound horses

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If your horse has recently been confined to his stable more than you’d hoped, then you both may be feeling pretty fed up – boredom busters for horses will become your new best friend.

While bored horses are at a higher risk of developing stereotypies, most horses settle to restricted turnout if their mates are also stabled. Still, you might want to try some of the following ways to keep your stabled horse happy and healthy.

Boredom busters for horses

1. Stable toys

There’s such a wide range of stable toys available – so we’ve rounded up the best stable toys for horses, which has something for every need.

Some are designed to keep your horse occupied with food, but this is no good if you’re battling laminitis or your horse is prone to obesity – instead, one of the best slow feeders might be what you need to keep them busy. Other toys encourage play without the need for food, so there is plenty to choose from.

If funds are tight, you could make your own. My pony loves a hanging swede – I make a hole through the centre and hang it up with baler twine, making sure he can’t push it against a wall to increase the challenge.

2. Encourage foraging

Horses are natural foragers, so encouraging their natural instincts to keep them busy is a real win. You could try…

• hiding carrots or horse treats in haynets
• hanging carrots up round the stable
• put apples in the water bucket for apple bobbing
• using treat balls

The Equine Behaviour and Training Association (EBTA) recommends providing different types of forage to stabled horses, to replicate as closely as possible the ‘patch foraging’ that is normal behaviour when grazing. For example, you could place the components of your horse’s feed in separate buckets or offer one haynet filled with hay, another with haylage, plus a large bucket of dried grass or other hay replacer placed around the stable.

Extending your horse’s eating time will not only prevent boredom, but it will stimulate more saliva production, which can help prevent gastric ulcers, too.

3. Licks

If your horse can be trusted to regulate his intake, one of the best licks – whether on its own or as part of a toy – can be beneficial for staving off boredom as well as supplying minerals, preventing dehydration and balancing electrolytes.

4. Carrot stretches

Stabled horses can get stiff, so why not maximise this time by practising carrot stretches? If you’re unsure of how to stretch your horse, or want to brush up your skills, here is a video from YouTube to help.

Handheld licks, like the Horslyx Mini (available on Amazon), are a great substitute for a carrot and can encourage your horse to hold the stretch for longer, too.

5. Pamper time

With little opportunity to indulge in a lovely long itch-busting roll, your horse will probably appreciate a good grooming session. A thorough groom can also help stimulate his circulatory system in a similar way to a massage.

You could even try using a specially designed massaging grooming tool, such as this massaging grooming glove, or mitt, such as the Equilibrium Hotspot.

6. Mirrors

Horses are herd animals, and if for any reason he has to be stabled away from his mates, or can’t easily see them from his stable, then the EBTA suggests using a mirror.

Don’t opt for a huge one, so he can avoid his ‘stable buddy’ if need be, and try him with it on the yard first, to ensure it doesn’t freak him out. If your horse is an aggressive type, he’s likely to be aggressive with his ‘mate’ so a mirror may not be a good idea. And of course, make sure it’s safely attached and non-breakable, like this plastic safety mirror on Amazon.

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Need to slow your horse down and save hay? Here are some great options for a range of needs

The best slow feeders for horses can help with the constant struggle of providing continuous access to forage, while simultaneously slowing eating and prolonging grazing time. I know this struggle first hand as my pony is an incredibly good-doer and has had laminitis in the past, but has no ‘off switch’ when it comes to eating. I’d love to be able to provide him with ad lib hay, but he wouldn’t stop until it was gone. And if I leave him hay in the field, it lasts him no time at all and he ends up waiting for hours without anything to graze on. If you’re feeding a horse on box rest, you may have a similar struggle in your efforts to prevent gastric ulcers.

To manage the situation, I have tried almost all of the options below before finally settling on my current setup, which is a wooden crate-style hay box with a small-holed net tied in – I have the Trickle Net Original, Elico Little Piggy nets, Equilibrium Portion Pacer and KM Elite Elim-A-Net Haynet on rotation. But something different will work for every horse, their personality and your setup – so I’ve included a wide range of options in this guide to ensure there’s a solution for everyone.

Best slow feeders for horses (including small-holed haynets)

What is a slow forage feeder?

Slow feeders are available in a range of designs, from small-holed nets to hay boxes, and they all work in the same way. The smaller the area or holes are to get to the hay, the slower your horse will be able to eat, which lengthens time the hay will be available to him. You might be familiar with slow feeders for dogs and these have a similar concept.

Benefits of using a slow forage feeder

• Replicate natural grazing pattern – feeders that encourage horses to get their heads down will help keep their airways clearer and are closer to their natural feeding habits
• Extend eating time – by doing this, slow feeders help to to mitigate the risks of over-feeding, obesity, cribbing, colic and ulcers
• Help keep horses occupied – this is particularly useful if your horse is on box rest or has restricted grazing
• Minimises wastage – this saves us money and is going to be particularly important this year with the reported poor hay yield
• Reduces mess – this ties into wastage but it should help protect your fields, too
• Protects the nutrient levels of hay from decreasing due to weather conditions

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If weather or injury has resulted in your horse being on box rest or stabled a lot more than you’d hoped, then you both may be feeling pretty fed up, but the best stable toys for horses are a great way to alleviate boredom. While bored horses are at a higher risk of developing stereotypies, such as cribbing, destructive chewing or box walking, most settle eventually if they have stablemates nearby or something to keep them occupied.

The main aim of stable toys for horses is to enrich your horse’s time in the stable, keep him mentally stimulated and extend the time he takes doing normal activities, such as eating. This is particularly important if you’re feeding a horse on box rest.

From the best flavoured licks to horse balls, there’s an ever-growing plethora of ready-made horse toys available. Some horses are easily pleased, though, so if funds are tight you could try making your own boredom busters for horses.

Best stable toys for horses

Likit Boredom Breaker

Colours: Red, glitter pink, aqua, purple or lilac

Ideal for food motivated horses or experienced lickers, this multi-directional double hanging challenge will keep the busiest horse occupied. Use with 1 x Likit (650g) and/or 1 or 2 Little Likits (250g).

Horsemen’s Pride Jolly Mega Ball

Sizes: 25in (red), 30in (blue) or 40in (green)

This heavy duty inflatable ball is made specifically for horses. It comes in three sizes to choose from depending on the size of your horse and his space.

Likit Snak-a-ball

Colours: Red, aqua, purple or lilac

This treat ball stimulates natural grazing behaviour and encourages your horse to stretch and use muscles from poll to tail. Use with Likit Snacks or any dry pellet feed.

HKM Ball toy

Colours: Rose or blue

The horse play ball helps provide entertainment and variety in the stable to prevent boredom. Thanks to the practical loop, it is easy to attach so that the horse can play with it at any time. Feed such as hay or carrots can also be attached to the small loops on the ball as an extra highlight. The ball is supplied with an air pump and is therefore ready for immediate use.

Shires Equine Scratcher

Size: 64cm x 28cm

Made from durable plastic with a texturised, flexible panel that can be mounted on a fence post or stable wall to allow your horse to safely scratch. It offers relief from insect bites, boredom or shedding a seasonal coat. It will not rot or crack whatever the weather and includes mounting hardware.

Likit Graze Maze Slow Feeding Mat

Colours: Purple or blue

A durable rubber lick mat that can be used to help relieve boredom, provide a distraction, or simply to slow the rate of feeding. You simply use it in the bottom of a feed bucket as a slow-feeder or spread a layer of our yummy Likit Graze Paste on the mat, onto which you can sprinkle feed and treats to create a delicious grazing plate for your horse. It’s also suitable for freezing so you could also make a horse ice lolly when the weather is hot.

I use one of these in my horses feed bucket as he only has a small feed and I noticed once using this it seemed to take him longer to eat his small ration. It’s easy to clean and it proven to be very durable.

Horsemen’s Pride Jolly Ball

Colours: Wide range of colours

This ball is made of hard wearing material that resists deflating when bitten, kicked, tossed around or rolled on. Some are also scented for extra temptation.

Stubbs Rock N Roll Ball

Colours: Red, blue, green, pink or purple

Combining a shape that is difficult to roll in a straight line with generous size, this dribble treat feeder will keep a horse very busy. The dispensing hole is 30mm diameter and suits most treats. Moulded from ultra-tough stubbythene, this toy is supremely durable.

Lemieux Horse Stable Toy

Colours: Banana, bee, cloud, cupcake, pig, robin, sausage dog, apple or popcorn

Keep your horse amused in the stable with this range of 3D horse toys in a number of different designs. It comes with a rope loop that you can hang up and some designs have a play rope through the toy for extra pull play, preventing your horse from getting bored. These toys are filled with natural husk and lined with hessian for extra strength.

Silvermoor Swingers Rope Kit

Colours: Green

This rope kit will allow you to hang a forage block (available separately) from your stable ceiling. The forage block is made from 100% natural ingredients with no added sugar. There are no corners and the swinging design, which together means your horse has to work to be able to eat it, slowing consumption and promoting saliva production, which buffers stomach acid.

Horsemen’s Pride Jolly Hay Ball

Colours: Blue or green

This hay ball is lightweight and durable and can easily be hung in a stall or outside. The larger holes allow for hay to be placed inside while the smaller holes are perfect for holding apple or carrot chunks to add a yummy treat.

Shires Ball Feeder

Colours: Orange, blue, purple, pink or green

This ball encourages a more natural, slower eating pattern than feeding from a bucket. Your horse rolls the ball around and feed is dispensed out the hole. It can be useful for relieving boredom or stress in the stable or paddock. Use with pellet feed or treats.

Bizzy Bites Bizzy Ball

Colours: Pink or aqua

You can hang this stable toy from the wall, leave it on the floor or attach it to the stable door. Inspired by baby and dog teethers, the textured wings provide an interesting surface for chewing which also aids a teething horse. Use with Bizzy Lick.

Shires Carrot Ball

This ball is designed to help increase dexterity and encourage learning with healthy treats as a reward. It should keep your horse entertained for hours if you hang it up in the stable. It is inflated using a bicycle pump and has an innovative “hug and tug” feature that varies the effort required to remove the carrots once the horse is familiar with the toy. Can be used with carrots, turnips, parsnips or apples – anything that will be held firm in the holes.

Horsemen’s Pride Pas-a-Fier

This apple-scented toy has a rotating device that allows your horse to massage his gums for hours. Hardware to mount the toy to the wall is included.

QHP Horse Stable Toy Novy

Colours: Pink, green or blue

This stable toy was thoughtfully designed with young horses in mind, this charming stable companion is crafted from durable suede and filled with naturally biodegradable coconut fibre—making it both safe and eco-friendly. The cotton and jute hanging cord allows for easy attachment in the stable, giving your horse a playful distraction to help reduce boredom. Whether for a foal or a full-grown equine, Novy is a fun and responsible way to support stable enrichment.

Do horses like stable toys?

Yes, most horses do. Providing horses with a stable toy can be a successful way for owners to offer additional mental stimulation and enrichment while they are stabled.

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Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Horse & Hound magazine, out every Thursday, is packed with all the latest news and reports, as well as interviews, specials, nostalgia, vet and training advice. Find how you can enjoy the magazine delivered to your door every week, plus options to upgrade your subscription to access our online service that brings you breaking news and reports as well as other benefits.

Few aspects of horse ownership are as worrying as an injured horse, stuck on box rest. Managing their diet and feeding a horse on box rest is one of the major problems owners need to address, because the horse cannot graze and forage naturally, potentially for months. Lacking exercise or any movement, some horses will put on weight. Others will stress the weight straight off. And box rest increases the risk of colic, as the horse’s digestive system functions best when the animal is moving. We asked some equine nutritionists if there is anything balancers can do for box-resting horses.

According to Katie Grimwood, BSc (Hons), the senior nutritionist at Bailey’s, feed balancers are actually quite helpful.

“Correct nutrition may actually aid soft tissue healing by providing the nutritional components for repair,” she says. “Amino acids, for example, are the building blocks of protein and are essential for soft tissue construction. Essential amino acids (those not synthesised within the horse’s body), such as lysine and methionine, are particularly good for supporting repair.”

Katie advises that forage won’t provide enough nutrients.

“It does not contain the quality protein required to supply plenty of essential amino acids, although alfalfa is a good source of the amino acid, lysine.”

Lizzie Drury, the senior nutritionist at Saracen Horse Feeds, agrees that a balancer could be a useful addition to the recuperating horse’s diet, explaining: “When you have a horse that is on box rest or convalescing, a feed balancer is a convenient way to provide essential amino acids, antioxidants, prebiotics and probiotics that will help to support the immune system and maintain a healthy digestive system. Sick horses may also have limited appetites and feed balancers can help to stimulate intake and deliver a high plane of nutrition in a small amount of feed.”

The box-resting horse should still be given ad lib forage, as it gives him something to do and helps prevent digestive complications. Kate Hore, RNutr (Animal), registered nutritionist with NAF, says: “A horse out of work should be on a high fibre, low energy diet with little or no hard feed.” She adds: “However, those micronutrients are still essential — after all, they are required for repair and regrowth, so are an essential part of your horse’s return to fitness.”

Unlike feed made out of whole cereal grains, balancers don’t provide the horse with as much buzzy energy. Getting into the science of it, Kate explains: “Starch and sugar are the primary sources of quick release energy within the diet, with high intakes of these being commonly associated with excitable or fizzy behaviour. Starch is found in higher amounts in whole cereal grains such as oats, maize, wheat and barley. Digestion breaks the starch molecule down into separate glucose molecules which are absorbed straight into the blood stream in the small intestine.

Cereals are therefore known for supplying quick release energy, as they are easily digested and can be used much quicker than energy from fats and fibre. Due to the small feeding rates of balancers (typically 100g per 100kg of bodyweight), the starch and sugar contributions will be minimal, making them ideal for horses that can be fizzy while their workload and energy expenditure is reduced.”

Clare Barfoot, RNutr, the marketing, research, and revelopment director at Spillers, also emphasises the importance of forage, which “will keep [the horse] occupied, fulfil his desire to chew and reduce his risk of developing gastric ulcers.” She continues: “In such circumstances, nutrition support in the form of balancer every day will help support the forage-based diet, providing essential daily vitamins and minerals but without the extra calories which are not often needed when a horse is out of work.”

It is critical that owners choose the right balancer for the box resting horse. Some have more protein than others. Kate stresses that owners need to provide “quality protein, without providing excess quantity of protein.” While protein such as lysine is essential for repairing tissues, a balancer, or any feed, that adds too much protein can result in unwanted weight gain. If your horse is the type to gain weight easily, that is something to be avoided. She also says: “Another important factor for both the horse and their carer, is that excess protein will mean excess nitrogen is excreted as urea — resulting in very wet beds, lots of mucking out, and the potentially damaging irritant effects of ammonia — definitely one to be avoided!”

However, if your horse is prone to being stressy and loses weight easily, a balancer alone won’t be sufficient for keeping condition on it. Katie says: “For these types, using low starch conditioning feeds, which are instead high in fibre and oils, may be more beneficial.”

How to feed a horse on box rest to maintain health and aid recovery

Best feed balancers for all horses: what’s on the market?

How to choose the right feed balancer for your horse

Subscribe to Horse & Hound magazine today – and enjoy unlimited website access all year round

Horse & Hound magazine, out every Thursday, is packed with all the latest news and reports, as well as interviews, specials, nostalgia, vet and training advice. Find how you can enjoy the magazine delivered to your door every week, plus options to upgrade your subscription to access our online service that brings you breaking news and reports as well as other benefits.

When a horse has to stay in the stable for a prolonged period of time, all kinds of problems can ensue. Gil Riley MRCVS advises on how to manage box rest

MANY conditions or injuries sustained by horses, as with humans, can require a period of rest for weeks or even months. However, unlike with humans, we are unable to advise our horses to take things easy and that’s why stable (box) rest is such an important part of many a horse’s recuperation.

The duration and nature of the box rest will be individually tailored for each horse and will be dependent on the condition or injury sustained as well as their speed of response to the rehabilitation programme.

One of the most common reasons for box resting a horse or pony is laminitis. It’s vital that laminitis patients are totally confined to the stable on a deep bed of shavings so that the inflamed laminae are not put under any unnecessary strain while they are repairing.

A failure to do this can result in the pedal bone, ordinarily supported by the laminae, rotating or even sinking (foundering) and thus greatly increasing the seriousness of the original condition. A horse with laminitis must remain completely boxed for at least three weeks after first contracting the condition, after which gradually increasing turnout can be introduced if the horse’s condition has resolved.

Most horses post-surgery also require box rest as a fundamental part of the recuperation programme. All horses that have had colic surgery will be put on box rest to prevent the stitches in the body wall being excessively taxed. This minimises the likelihood of herniation of the intestine through the wound in the muscle layers along the midline of the belly.

Strict box rest in both laminitis and colic cases also requires rigorous control of the diet. In laminitics, a low-calorie diet or weight loss programme is a must. In colic cases, a major surgery can be followed by a period of at least 24 hours of starvation. This is then followed by a bran mash and then a high-fibre diet fed little and often. Restricted diets can be hard with horses with reduced gut motility or gastric ulcers, so its’s best to ask your vet how to feed a horse on box rest.

Unlike laminitis cases, colic surgeries can often benefit from a short walk out several times during the day to allow a pick of grass and to ease any fluid that may be collecting along the site of the incision – the midline along the belly – which is prone to fluid gathering under the effect of gravity.

A HORSE’S recovery from injuries of the superficial digital flexor tendon – check ligament or suspensory ligament (all structures running down the back of the cannon) – necessitates a prolonged period of box rest. Animals which are recovering from any form of fracture repair, especially those of the limb, will also need this.

An important part of the repair of these structures is, after a short initial period of complete box confinement to allow the injury or repair to settle, that they should be exposed to a measured workload in the form of walking out on a hard, flat surface.

This usually means around 10 minutes twice daily, increasing to 30 minutes twice daily over a period of six to eight weeks. Box rest, in association with walking out, gives structures the space to repair through the laying down of collagen fibres (or in the case of fractures, bone).

The walking out also provides gentle work to encourage the tissues of repair to be laid down in alignment with the direction of load, so they are best able to withstand the stresses and strains of work when exercise is resumed.

If your vet has advised a walking programme, you must continue with shoeing as the hard surface can quickly cause the horn to crack and foot soreness to develop.

Less common but still often requiring a period of box rest are eye injuries. Keeping the horse out of sunlight is vital as this can exacerbate discomfort, cause unhelpful squinting, tear streaming and potentially further injury through the horse rubbing the eye in an attempt to alleviate the accompanying irritation. The last thing an injured eye needs is further trauma.

IT is vital that box rest is what it suggests; rest in a stable. An agitated horse running around its stable is not a resting horse and this must be prevented, else the whole treatment plan is in jeopardy.

Some common problems with box rest can include…

Boredom

SOME horses will tolerate box rest well. These are generally older horses of a more settled temperament; younger horses of the more hot-blooded breeds tend to be the worst patients.

The stress of box confinement can lead to the horse’s behaviour becoming very unpredictable. Such horses can develop stereotypies to relieve their stress (crib-biting, swaying, box-walking) and these may not disappear once the horse no longer requires confinement.

For such horses, it is vital to experiment with stress-relieving measures. Is the horse better if it is confined to a stable where it can see other horses in the field? Is it better when a companion is kept in the stable next door to keep it company? Keeping other horses in as company, possibly on a rota, can really help.

Some distraction measures can be very useful, such as boredom balls, dangling licks or toys, and mirrors can relieve the monotony for some horses.

Spending as much time as possible grooming the patient will go down very well, as long as it is safe, you are not on your own and appropriate safety precautions – such as tying the horse up and wearing a hat – are taken.

Food intake can be a good distraction, so small, regular hay nets and frequent low-calorie feeds throughout the day are advised. Double netting the hay is a good idea, as the horse will have to work that bit harder for its food to keep its stomach satisfied.

In those horses that are bedded on straw, a continual trickle feed of hay can also ensure the horse does not gorge on its straw bed and risk developing an impaction colic. All of this requires a dedicated owner or a supportive livery yard.

There are various daily calmers on the market and some owners find these helpful. Most are based on either magnesium or L-tryptophan; this amino acid is the precursor of serotonin (the calming, feel-good hormone in the horse’s brain). While the effects of calmers can be inconsistent, if they seem to work, by all means feed them.

In the more fractious animals, it may be necessary to discuss the use of oral sedatives with your vet.

These are also from one of two groups, acepromazine (ACP) and detomidine. The effects of the ACP sedatives tend to be mild but can be very effective in all but the most agitated animals. The detomidine-based sedatives are generally very effective and safe, even if used on a daily basis longer term, but they are more expensive.

Oral sedation can be especially helpful when the horses are on a walking-out programme as many patients will be fine in the box but are prone to explode once walked outside. It should also be noted that the cost of daily sedative over a period of months in some horses can really mount up.

Respiratory issues

PROLONGED confinement in the stable can result in issues with dust, especially in those animals that have a history of respiratory sensitivity or allergies. Signs can include nasal discharge, persistent coughing and airway inflammation.

Use dust-free bedding and make sure the stable is mucked out several times a day so there is minimal ammonia in the environment. Also, choose a dust-free forage such as a good-quality haylage or soaked hay.

Provide as much ventilation as possible. Moving to an outdoor stable or one at the end of the barn can help with the ventilation. If the ventilation in the stable is sufficient, spiders should not be able to weave their webs so if cobwebs are on view, maybe it’s not the best stable for a prolonged period of rest.

Colic

ASIDE from impaction colics as a result of eating the bedding, prolonged box rest is associated with a greater incidence of colic. This may be due to the change of management with the horse being confined to the stable rather than out in the field.

However, should pain-management with non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs be concurrent, then these can interfere in gut movement and impaction colics or displacement colics (where the colon or caecum of the large intestine moves out of position within the abdomen) can result.

Such colics are best prevented by limiting the pain relief to the minimum necessary, ensuring a consistent, regular supply of roughage and of clean, fresh water, and those regular short spells out in-hand.

No two recovery plans are the same, and while box resting a horse can involve intensive effort on behalf of the owner, its frequent role in achieving the very best recovery for the horse means it is a vital component in many successful rehabilitations.

Plan of attack

The programme for box rest patients is never a one size fits all. Consider some of these options…

• Outside pen. If the horse will not settle on box rest it may be possible to revert to a stable-sized area outside (pictured). A sturdily fenced off patch in the corner of a field, within a very short walking distance of the stable to which it will go in at night, can work well.
• Rehabilitation centres. A more recent development in the UK is the growth of rehabilitation centres which are willing to work alongside your vet in achieving the very best recovery for your horse. Such units are staffed with competent handlers and facilities that allow the recuperating patient to be managed in a safer, professional environment.
• Horse-walkers allow for the walking-out exercise to be performed without a handler exposed on the end of the lead rope and within range of those extendable forelegs. The diameter of the walker should be at least twenty metres as smaller circles can create continual torque on the limbs and joints, sometimes leading to soft tissue injuries.
• A swimming pool will allow a full-body exercise without the weight bearing down on injured limbs, while water treadmill exercise encourages particular engagement of the back and sacroiliac area.
• Sending your horse to one of these centres will often be covered on your insurance policy but, even if your horse is not insured, the cost of providing the necessary care at the home stable (bedding, fuel back and forth to the yard etc) may not work out much less expensive than it being performed by the professionals.

This feature is also available to read in this Thursday’s H&H magazine (22 April, 2021)

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From Hyde Park bomb survivors to a fairytale Grand National winner, Kate Johnson tracks down horses who have made miraculous recoveries

“He’s a mischief-maker; his stable’s like a padded cell,” laughs eventer Emma Hyslop-Webb of her adored 17-year-old Waldo III (Wally, pictured above). “And he loves drama! If we’re hacking, and people are walking through the village, he thinks that’s his audience and we have to canter sideways.”

After 13 years together, Emma feels a very special bond and was worried when the vet agreed that Wally “wasn’t quite right” after two weeks’ rest following the Barroca International Horse Trials in Portugal last year. They were entered for their first Badminton just over two months later.

“No one knew what it was or if he would recover,” she remembers, as diagnoses such as meningitis and the fatal West Nile virus were ruled out with extensive tests including a spinal tap.

Far from recuperating from the unknown virus affecting his immune system, Wally contracted bacterial pneumonia as a secondary condition. While he battled, Emma moved into her horsebox to be nearer him, checking him every hour through the night, and installed cameras in his stable.

Progress was slow, though “the vet said, ‘As long as you can jump a drop fence, you’ll be good to go to Badminton,’” she recalls. And by some miracle, he did recover in time and they made it to the great event, though Emma knew that “the fitness lead-up wasn’t ideal”.

It was an emotional occasion. Emma’s head girl, Sophia Robinson, was also devoted to this horse, and had helped nurse him better.

“She was so hands-on in his recovery that for her 21st birthday, I gifted her half of Wally,” Emma says. “So when we got to Badminton, she had her name announced as we went into the dressage arena.”

Recalling the cross-country, she says, “If I’d felt at any stage he couldn’t carry on, I’d have pulled up. We got to Huntsman’s Close, four or five out, I took a long route at the wall to make it easier, and I nursed him home. There’s a photo of me jumping the final fence at Badminton in tears. The whole team was in tears. It wasn’t just for me, it was for everyone.”

It was also a team effort that saved Edwulf’s life, the eight-year-old who collapsed on the run-in of the National Hunt Chase at Cheltenham in 2017. He was treated by the on-course vets behind green screens for well over an hour, delaying the last race.

Trainer Joseph O’Brien’s sister, Sarah, took off her heels and ran back and forth carrying buckets of water to cool him down. His heartbeat was out of rhythm, he was fitting and uncoordinated when he finally got to his feet. Given a police escort to the Three Counties Equine Hospital, it was discovered he’d gone blind.

Joseph says: “It was a very traumatic experience for everyone involved on the day. Credit must go to the veterinary team on the track. We were very worried but we knew he was getting the best care possible. When you know that, all you can do is hope for the best”.

Edwulf regained his sight, and returned to the Martinstown Stud of owner JP McManus, where he was given “time to recover and get over the experience” before coming back into training the following season.

“It wasn’t to race, it was just to get him back into his routine,” says Joseph. “We started from scratch – baby steps – and let Edwulf tell us what he was ready or not ready to do. He actually really enjoyed getting back into work, and was in great shape. We wouldn’t have raced him at all other than the fact that he was loving life. It was incredible for him to come back as well as he did.”

That comeback was winning the Irish Gold Cup in 2018, less than a year later, partnered with his Cheltenham jockey Derek O’Connor.

“He sprinted up the straight,” remembers Joseph. “It was an emotional day, a marvellous day, no two ways about it, and very special to everyone here.”

Edwulf, the “gentle giant – he’s a huge horse, over 17hh” – has now retired to Martinstown Stud where he is “living the life”.

In 1979, another racehorse refused to give up, and inspired a desperately ill man to do the same. Aldaniti broke down for the third time at Sandown and vets recommended he be euthanised. His owner Nick Embiricos and trainer Josh Gifford refused. Jockey Bob Champion MBE – who long dreamed of riding Aldaniti in the Grand National – was also at Sandown that day, halfway though his “horrendous” chemotherapy treatment for cancer.

“I felt like giving up that day, going home and dying,” he says. “Back at the Royal Marsden Hospital, I felt desperate. A staff nurse said, ‘We won’t take the cannula out; have a walk and think about it,’ and I ended up walking through the kids’ ward. I saw them on different kinds of chemotherapy. They weren’t giving up, and it made me ashamed of myself. I still remember that feeling and I thought, ‘Let’s get back on with it.’”

Aldaniti’s only chance was to put his leg in plaster, and be tied up so he couldn’t walk for six months. He was, says Bob, “an unbelievable patient. He had a fantastic temperament”.

In 1981, they lined up for the Grand National. Aldaniti landed on his knees over the first fence because of “the speed you’re going for the first two fences, horses tend to over-jump. It’s not the fence, it’s the speed”.

He continues: “I jumped Becher’s in 29th place, where I should have been, then I had the best run round the Canal Turn any jockey in

the history of racing ever had. Between Becher’s and Valentine’s Brook, three-and-a-half miles from home, in three fences he jumped to the front.”

And he stayed on to claim victory. Bob dedicated his win to the nurses and patients of the Royal Marsden – he’d arranged for the ward nurses and sister to be there.

In the years after that, a movie was made. Bob Champion was played by John Hurt and Aldaniti was played by the horse himself, and the two made millions for Bob’s cancer charity.

“Aldaniti loved the public; he was a bit of a showman, he knew he was the centre of attention,” says Bob. “When he died aged 27 in 1997, Nick Gifford [Josh’s son] rang, and we were both gutted. Aldaniti meant so much to me, and did so much for me – in a way I still miss him.”

Mark Avison, equine care director of the Horse Trust, knows just how that feels. On 20 July 1982, he was not even 18 and a part of the Household Cavalry Mounted Regiment, stationed at the Hyde Park Barracks in London when he heard a noise that he will never forget.

“I remember it like it was yesterday,” he says of the Hyde Park bomb that killed four Blues and Royals, and seven horses. Seven bandsmen of the Royal Green Jackets died in a second blast at Regent’s Park.

The first horse back to the “sick line” of stables was Echo, a dazed police horse, with one major injury near his girth.

“I remember watching the surgeon putting his hand in, feeling around, banging against something, and pulling out shrapnel – metal and nails – the size and shape of a tennis ball,” Mark says.

Next, military horse Sefton found his own way back to base and Mark’s senior NCO “ran out through the ceremonial gate, caught Sefton, and took his shirt off straight away to put pressure on the wound”.

Shrapnel had sliced through his jugular groove and the action saved his life.

It was at least a year for nearly every horse on guard that day before they were ready to come back into work, if at all, and longer for Sefton, who had 38 shrapnel wounds. He convalesced at the Defence Animal Centre in Melton Mowbray, where his new groom Isla spent a lot of one-to-one time tending him.

“As patients, every single one of the horses was very good because they knew they needed care for their injuries,” Mark remembers.

Sefton, Echo and another horse from that day, Yeti, spent the rest of their days at the Horse Trust’s Home of Rest for Horses and they all lived to 30. Echo never got used to crowds again and would colic every afternoon when visitors entered the grounds, so he was taken to a quiet barn.

At the end of his life, Sefton was transferred back to Melton Mowbray, where Mark was then a riding instructor.

“We knew why he was coming,” says Mark. “He had a few weeks enjoying the lush grass, and would happily come to the fence to be fed extra apples. I was with him when the veterinary officer put him to sleep. We gave him a burial with a gravestone. He came full circle. Even now I get a tingle on the back of my neck. It was a fitting farewell.”

Ref: Horse & Hound; 26 November 2020

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One day, you’re riding happily along without a care in the world and the next, your horse is hopping lame and the vet has uttered those two little words that every horse owner dreads…“box rest!”

Your heart sinks as you visualise your usually mild-mannered horse transforming into a bad-tempered, bored beast that develops every stable vice going from weaving to cribbing, and invents a few new ones as well, for good measure.

Well, try not to worry. That probably won’t happen. Most horses do adjust fairly well to a period of enforced rest and relaxation (as we like to think of it). However, you will discover the following…

1. Nothing is indestructible

Worried about your horse’s happiness and wellbeing over the next few days or weeks, you’ve forked out for a treat ball, a stable mirror, a small-holed haynet, and a new rug (any excuse, right?). The online adverts for all of these items claim that they’re indestructible. This is a challenge that your horse appears only too happy to take on… Suffice to say, very few things are indestructible if repeatedly bashed against a concrete wall, or chewed by teeth that can easily gnaw through solid wood. This includes your sense of calm and wellbeing when you turn up in the morning to find that lovely new rug on his stable floor, shredded like a pair of fishnet tights at an indie disco.

2. Horses do a lot of poo

On average, horses defecate around eight times in 24 hours. Unless they’re on box rest, when you can double that. Or triple it. At least, that’s what it looks like when you come to skip out your horse, who will inevitably be standing with at least one hoof in a mound of poo. Taking pity on you, he may have decided to bury some of it in your carefully-built banks – out of sight, out of mind, right? This means you have to hang out in his stable while you dig it all out, which is nice for you both. Isn’t it? Hello?

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3. Swedes can be lethal

No, not the Scandinavian sort — they’re a lovely, peaceful nation on the whole. We’re talking about the root vegetable, which you’ve pierced and suspended from the ceiling on a piece of string as a ‘toy’ for your frustrated horse. He can whack it around like a game of swingball, and when he gets bored of playing, he can eat it. What a great idea — except when you dash back into his stable to check his water bucket before you leave the yard and get clonked on the side of the head by a 2kg root vegetable. In 2012, swedes were named one of the most dangerous vegetables (honestly!) so this is something we all need to take very seriously. We should probably set up a helpline.

4. Your partner/spouse/parent will wonder if you’re having an affair

Now your horse is out of action, your partner/spouse/parent may start getting some funny ideas about spending more time with you. You, on the other hand, are so concerned about your steed being bored and lonely that you’re practically living in his stable. You’ve installed a radio outside it (another boredom alleviator for box-resting horses) and have both developed a mild addiction to The Archers. This is all perfectly logical to you, as indeed it would be to any equestrian, but your non-horsey partner/spouse/parent may start to get suspicious when you rock up at midnight, muttering about Tony Archer’s organic plums.

5. Singing ‘Let It Go’ from Frozen does not cheer up a depressed horse

So he’s been on box rest for over a week, and frankly you’re both feeling a bit low. You miss riding him, he misses hooning about in his field. It’s at a time like this that it might occur to you to sing uplifting show tunes to him, to raise both your spirits. Choose wisely. Queen Elsa might know a thing or two about new beginnings and fresh starts, but ‘Let It Go’ is fiendishly difficult to sing. Choose something from Annie or the Sound Of Music instead. Your horse (and fellow liveries) will thank you.

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Box rest — two words no horse owner wants to hear. Months of hard training gone to waste, dreams of summertime hacking gone out the window and your poor horse confined to prison and you without a ride. You’re doing the best thing for your horse — but try telling them that. Becky Murray finds out how we can keep our horses and ourselves sane at this testing time

1. Depending on the ‘length of prison sentence’, boredom can be a huge factor for your horse, especially if they are used to all-day or 24 hour turnout. Stable mirrors can prove to be useful in these cases. Your horse can go from staring out of the stable longingly all-day to playing hide and seek with themselves in the mirror for hours of fun. Just ensure to get the unbreakable version designed for equines… you don’t need seven years of bad luck!

2. If your horse is going to be out of action for some time and you can’t bear to be on the ground for that long what about looking up your local riding school and booking a nice, long Sunday hack round the forest. You’ll get your riding-fix and your stable-bound mate will have a much chirpier owner.

3. Music is good for the soul! How about investing in a portable, battery-powered radio for your invalid? The music will provide some background noise for them and can also be handy if they can hear their field mates shouting to them all-day.

4. Stay fit! You’re used to training five days a week and competing all season but now you’re looking at months out of action. Is there another hobby you can take up to keep you fit and supple ready for jumping back in the saddle when the time comes? You will thank yourself for it later down the line when your instructor is telling you to lengthen those legs and tutting at how unfit you’ve become.

5. Is your horse allowed any massage treatment while on their box rest? There are a variety of massage mitts now available on the market. Check with your vet if you can treat your poorly pony to a lovely massage. Not only will it give you both that close bonding time (other than changing bandages or mucking out), but also help your horse in the process.

6. You can’t compete but you can still partake! What about writing for a dressage judge at your local competition? You can pick up some handy tips on the way. Or how about stewarding for your local riding club? Perhaps you love the thrill of cross-country and could volunteer as a fence judge? Not only can you learn from others around you, support your friends and local clubs and venues, but this could also come in handy for future events where a ballot for entries may have to take place.

7. Your horse is used to being in his stable with his neighbours either side of him in the evening, so watching them all be turned out in the morning without him can be a bit distressing. Is there a horse that can perhaps spend the day in with him for company that could do with coming off the grass during the day until the others come back in at night? A win-win situation for both owners.

8. Let’s face it horse owners can be the biggest hoarders in the world. You still have the rug that fits your 14.2hh pony you sold years ago? Or you’ve accumulated more bits than a riding school? You have six headcollars, eight sets of bandages, three riding crops and don’t start on the haynets and buckets. Use this spare time for a big weekend clear out and look into a horsey car-boot sale. You’ll thank yourself for the space and you know you’d love to treat your four-legged friend to something new once he’s all better and ready for action again.

Like this? You might also enjoy reading these:

Filled legs in a horse on box rest: what you need to consider

7 painful struggles of horse-less people

9. And finally what horse doesn’t like food? How about a turnip tied to a rope hanging from the stable? Or a stable toy that dispenses some healthy herbal treats could be a nice way to break-up the afternoon.

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

Keeping your horse happy and healthy while on box rest can pose a challenge for many owners — from combatting box rest blues and managing a reduced diet to the possibility that your horse’s legs may fill overnight

What should you do if your horse has a filled leg?

Investigate

“First off, you should investigate to ensure there is no underlying reason why the legs are filling,” advises Kate Granshaw, partner and full-time vet at Lingfield Equine Vets.

“There could be a whole range of causes — bacterial skin infections, injuries and viral infections are among the most common.”

Andy Fiske-Jackson, specialist surgeon at the Royal Veterinary College adds: “The more sinister causes of filled legs requiring veterinary attention could be infection, vasculitis (inflammation of the blood vessels) or lymphangitis (inflammation of the walls of the lymphatic vessels) — these cases will be lame, usually on a single limb and will likely be painful to palpate.

“Another cause could be low blood protein causing fluid to ‘leak’ out of the circulation — this can be due to inadequate intake or production (liver disease), or loss from the circulation, for example parasitism (‘worms’). It could also be caused by skin hypersensitivity (an allergic reaction) and rarely it could be heart, kidney or lung disease.”

If your horse is showing any other signs in addition to the filled legs, you should contact your veterinary surgeon.

Exercise

“Movement helps move lymph fluid through the lymphatic system back into the circulation,” says Andy. “Walking in-hand twice a day will help prevent limb oedema.”

Although your horse’s movement is obviously restricted on box rest, controlled exercise can be an important part of the rehabilitation phase.

However, do be prepared for your horse to be more exuberant than usual. Use a bridle and, if you have a sand school, consider walking him there rather than risk taking him on the roads. Similarly, if you have a horse walker and your horse is calm enough to use it, make the most of it.

Cold hosing

“I don’t routinely recommend cold hosing every filled leg, but it is a sensible option if the limb is clearly hot and infected,” says H&H vet Karen Coumbe. “The first thing I would suggest is to try and work out why and then try some gentle exercise, providing there is no lameness. A diagnosis is most important, sometimes there can be a tiny puncture wound causing a huge forelimb with cellulitis.”

It is also important to consider the simple and obvious causes, such as excess feed and insufficient work, which can often cause both hind limbs to fill with sometimes quite pronounced oedema. Swelling in a single limb usually reflects a local problem, whereas swelling in several limbs may be due to systemic disease or a skin problem, such as mud fever affecting more than one leg.

Choosing the right treatment will obviously depend on the cause. Equine manual lymphatic drainage (MLD) therapist Heather Powell argues that cold hosing can have a negative affect: “When the lymphatic system drops below a certain temperature, it stops working,” she says.

It is always best to obtain professional advice on the issue.

Bandaging

“Bandaging may well help where appropriate, however they must never be too tight,” adds Karen. “It is worth remembering that if the leg swells any more than when you put the bandage on, it will become too tight, and if the swelling goes down, the bandage will become too loose.”

MLD therapist Heather argues: “Bandages give the illusion that the leg isn’t filling, but actually, the leg is filling above the bandage. In fact, bandages can compress and restrict the tiny lymph vessels, preventing them from draining the leg.”

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Prevention

“Ensure you look after the horse’s legs and feet to prevent them filling, for example ensuring the feet are kept well trimmed,” says Kate Granshaw. “Also, make sure legs don’t remain cold, wet and muddy for long periods of time by washing mud off and towel drying.”

Karen adds: “Medication, such as antibiotics, should only be prescribed by your vet for cases that really need them.”

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

Acute injury or illness can call for a period of enforced box-rest. The good news about box rest, says veterinary surgeon Andy Bathe, is that most horses cope better than their owners expect, but the most dangerous time is when it is comes to an end.

So how can you ensure a successful rehabilitation once your horse is allowed out of its stable?

“A horse who does a handbrake turn and charges across the paddock can undo six months – work on a tendon injury in seconds,” says Andy.

“It’s often a good idea to sedate them and not to feed them that morning, the idea being that if they go out hungry, they’ll eat rather than gallop about.

“Put them out with an old ‘nanny’, rather than a horse who is likely to charge around – and although you ideally don’t want to change management too quickly, depending on the circumstances, it’s sometimes safer to put them out and leave them, rather than bring them in and out.”

Cambridge University Veterinary Hospital has a special “playpen”, a tiny grass square with post-and-rail fencing that is too small for the horse to get up speed, as a halfway house between stable and field. Andy says that crew or bullock yards can serve the same purpose, providing freedom in manageable stages.

Horse-walkers and treadmills can be useful in later stages, although it is important not to use these without talking to your vet. With some injuries, you would not want the horse continually turning on a horse walker.

Post box rest rehab tips

• Accept that rehabilitation can be a bigger challenge than box-rest. Patience and attention to detail are key.
• Fencing off a tiny area outside the stable can provide a gradual start.
• Work with your vet to devise a programme to suit your horse, dependent on the type and severity of the injury or condition.
• Expect some explosions and consider using a sedative under your vet’s advice.
• Wear a riding hat and gloves and use a bridle or chifney when leading him out for the first time. Use an enclosed area for the first few occasions.
• Proceed according to your horse’s temperament – he may walk more sensibly in long-reins than in-hand.

H&H 2 Feb 2012