A ban on bandages at events will come into force this spring in the Netherlands owing to concerns over the damage they could cause to horses’ legs during exercise.

Bandages will “no longer be permitted on the competition site” from 1 March in vaulting, and 1 April for dressage, showjumping and driving. They are already outlawed in eventing.

Bandages will still be allowed to protect legs in the stable and during transport, but will not be allowed during exercise or at prize givings.

The Dutch federation (KNHS) said that the decision is based on scientific studies.

“You can’t ignore it, so much research has been done into it. It is very clear that we should stop using it. Especially because there are alternatives if you want to protect the lower legs,” said Fenna Westerduin, who manages the horse welfare portfolio at the KNHS.

Morgan Lashley, specialist in sports medicine and equine rehabilitation at the University of Utrecht, added: “It has been investigated whether bandages can prevent overextension of the fetlock. The answer is no, even tape does not help against this.

“You can only stabilise this joint with a brace or plaster, but yes, you cannot ride with that. If you want to prevent knocking, tendon boots work better than a piece of cloth.”

She also pointed out the damage overheating can do to the elasticity of tendon issues, and the problems that can arise if bandages are not put on correctly.

“If they become loose, a horse can become entangled in them. If they are too tight or the material is not good, pressure can occur. I have even seen abroad that tendons had suffered trauma due to bandages that were too tight,” she said.

H&H vet Karen Coumbe said she agrees that a bandage is unlikely to be effective support, adding she too is “always concerned with any leg wrap or bandage that it may come loose at the wrong time”.

“I appreciate better people than me are skilled at applying them, however a modern purpose designed boot seems more sensible to me,” she said.

“Tendon injuries, especially those involving the superficial flexor, are an issue in horses doing fast work.

“It is a recognised fact that the tendons become hot as the horse works and if it is wearing bandages that heat cannot dissipate, so there is a greater potential for damage.

“Research has been done on this including use of thermography to demonstrate the heat that is generated during exercise, hence the importance of cooling limbs properly immediately after work.”

She added: “Remember if a horse has bandages on and is too hot, it cannot take them of , which in itself is not great for welfare. None of us like being too hot, but if we are, we can generally remove the extra layer.

“Good quality boots will have better air flow and the limbs hopefully will be protected but not become as hot.”

You might also be interested in:

The risks and benefits of using boots or bandages on horses’ legs

Professor Roger Smith FRCVS and Professor Michael Schramme weigh up the pros and cons

Choosing the right boots for your horse

Is ‘matchy-matchy’ in your horse’s best interest? Vet speaks out

“Think about it — does your horse really need bandages?” asks former British team vet, Campbell Thompson of Nantwich Equine

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Liphook Equine Hospital veterinary nurse Anna Stone talks you through how to put a stable bandage on your horse — ensuring correct positioning and that you are not applying too much pressure.

All horse owners should know how to put on stable bandages – which can also be described as “wrapping legs” – correctly.

If bandages are applied too tightly, they can cause pressure sores, necrosis due to restricted blood flow or soft tissue damage. If they are too loose they can slip off and become a trip hazard.

You will need:

• quilted pad, Fybagee or Gamgee pads
• stable bandages (fastening with Velcro)

How to put on a stable bandage

•  First, brush the horse’s legs off so that there is no bedding or mud that will get stuck underneath the bandage and cause rubbing or pressure sores
• Crouch beside the horse (do not kneel)
• Aiming for the bandage to cover from just below the horse’s knee or hock down to the coronet band, wrap the pad around the leg with even pressure, finishing with the seam on the outside of the leg, so that any extra pressure won’t lie on the tendons or the front of the leg. Some quilted pads, such as Waldhausen’s, have a velcro strip to help keep it in place
• While holding the pad in place, take the bandage and start midway down the leg. Wrap the bandage around the leg with a nice even pressure, aiming for half a width of wrap covering each time
• Go down to just below the fetlock and then start to come back up the leg
• Continue wrapping in the same way up to just below the knee or hock, fastening at the top with the velcro
• There should be no creases or wrinkles, as these will cause pressure points and restrict blood flow
• Check the pressure. You should easily be able to fit two fingers down from the top and up from the bottom, so you know it won’t be too tight and will be comfortable for the horse
• Change stable bandages at least once a day
• To remove, unfasten the velcro and carefully but quickly unwind the bandage by passing the bandage from hand to hand, neatly collecting the bandage up as you go so that there is no loose trail.
• Shake off any bedding and roll up the bandage with the Velcro inside so that this comes out last when you are putting the stable bandage on. The Velcro fastening should be stuck to itself and facing upwards as you reroll. Quick tip: new bandages are often fastened with the Velcro on the outside, so you’ll need to reroll them before you start.

Why use stable bandages?

• The horse’s legs might need support, for instance if he has an injury such as to his tendon. You should also bandage the opposite leg to provide additional support to the uninjured leg, which is likely to be taking more weight
• You might want to protect a wound that requires a bit of cover, and some owners choose to use them as protection during transport
• Stable bandages can reduce swelling of the lower limbs for horses on box rest
• They can also provide some warmth and comfort to recuperating horses and protect the lower limbs from bruising if he is lying down more than usual due to illness or injury.

However, a bandage applied incorrectly can do more harm than no bandage at all, so make sure you practise this skill dozens of times with someone knowledgeable to check your work to become proficient.

You may also be interested in…

From a muddy field to the show ring: a complete guide on how to groom a horse

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Some of the best stable bandages and wraps — essential items to have on your yard

Stable bandages and leg wraps provide support for tired legs, help to prevent post-exercise swelling and also give warmth and

Horse & Hound magazine, out every Thursday, is packed with all the latest news and reports, as well as interviews, specials, nostalgia, vet and training advice. Find how you can enjoy the magazine delivered to your door every week, plus options to upgrade your subscription to access our online service that brings you breaking news and reports as well as other benefits. 

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All horse owners should know how to put on a tail bandage correctly. The tail bandage has traditionally been used to protect the tail and dock while in transit and to help keep a pulled tail looking smart. However, there are also tail guards and other protectors now available.

Products such as Velcro-fastened neoprene tailguards are easy to apply, easy to remove and easy to wash making them preferable to many horse owners, while the “old school” remains faithful to the traditional elasticated bandage.

Elasticated tail bandages need to be carefully applied to ensure they remain in place, and bandaging is a skill that is only acquired through plenty of practice.

A tail bandage which is too loose will fall off and could get tangled in the horse’s legs, while an over-tight bandage could cause permanent damage to the tail. Tail bandages should not be left on for long periods, no longer than three hours.

Repeated use of an over-tight bandage may cause white hairs to appear in a dark coloured tail, damage to the underside of the dock, or in extreme cases, cause the tail hair to fall out.

An over-tight bandage can also cause an extreme “colic-like” reaction from the horse or pony, especially from those who have not worn a tail bandage before. Leaping around, rolling, sweating and bucking can all be caused by an incorrectly applied tail bandage. Remove the tail bandage and normality will be restored.

The old adage of “if in doubt, go without” is sound advice – if you are not proficient at doing a tail bandage, keep practising under a knowledgable eye until you have perfected the skill. A slightly rubbed tail can normally be brushed down at a show/hunt etc with a little water, although horses which really “sit back” and damage their tail when being travelled may need additional protection.

How to put on a tail bandage

• Make sure the horse is relaxed and calm – give him a haynet so that he is distracted
• Brush the horse’s tail and then dampen it with a sponge to help the tail bandage stick
• Using an elasticated tail bandage, hold it with the roll on top and 3–4in of bandage rolling out below as this helps with the tension
• Gently lift up the horse’s tail and put it over your shoulder while you secure the bandage around the top of the tail. Start with the end of the bandage lying at the top of the dock, wrap the bandage round once, and then tuck the little end into the second wrap
• Once that is secure, quickly but carefully continue wrapping the tail by passing the bandage from hand to hand round the dock, covering about half a width of wrap each time. Keep the tension consistent throughout the length of the tail
• Stop at the end of the dock, then start to work back up, aiming to finish about a third of the way up from the bottom of the dock.
• Do the tapes up at the same tension as you have been wrapping otherwise you will cause a pressure point. The tapes should be done up at the side of the tail, so that the horse does not rub the tie loose
• You should be able to fit a finger easily inside the bandage
• To remove the bandage, undo the tapes and gently pull the bandage off from the top in one movement
• Roll the bandage up properly afterwards: fold the tapes neatly at the top of the bandage and then turn the bandage over the tapes and start rolling inwards. You then want to increase the tension so stretch the bandage as you roll, and it will be easier to put on next time you want to put it on the tail.

You may also like to read…

7 tail guards that will provide protection during travel

14 travel tips to ensure a smooth journey with your horse wherever you’re going

How to put on a stable bandage correctly

How to help keep your horse happy and healthy while in transit *H&H Plus*

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Horse & Hound magazine, out every Thursday, is packed with all the latest news and reports, as well as interviews, specials, nostalgia, vet and training advice. Find how you can enjoy the magazine delivered to your door every week, plus options to upgrade your subscription to access our online service that brings you breaking news and reports as well as other benefits. 

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

Stable bandages and leg wraps provide support for tired legs, help to prevent post-exercise swelling and also give warmth and protection. Here is our pick of some of the best bandages and wraps available

While many of us remember the days when traditional gamgee and bandages with string ties were the norm, the potential for damage if applied unevenly has lead all but the most traditional of owners to move away from them. They have been mainly replaced by ribbed or quilted wraps or wraps made using layers of foam to provide even pressure. For the bandages, the longer they are the more support they will give, while bandages with a Velcro fastening tend to reduce the likelihood of uneven pressure on the tendons. If you think you will be bandaging over wet legs, it is a good idea to choose wraps made of breathable fabric that wicks moisture away from the skin and bandages made of knitted fabric for the same reason.

NB: The shopping links below are provided to help you buy these items. We may earn a small commission from some of these links.

Premier Equine Polo fleece bandages

These bandages from Premier Equine are four metres long, five inches wide and made of high quality fleece. They can support your horse’s legs in a variety of situations including travelling, in the stable or for exercise. They are also anti-pill, highly breathable and machine washable and tough enough to be used for everyday use.

RRP: £18.99 (set of 4)

Visit: www.premierequine.co.uk

Woof Wear Polo bandages and leg wraps

The fleece polo bandages can be used with the deep foam filled leg wraps while stabling or travelling to provide support to the legs without the danger of pressure points. In addition, they will help to keep joints warm and improve circulation.

RRP: Bandages £19 (pack of 4)

Luxurious leg wraps £14.99 (pack of 2)

Visit: www.woofwear.com

Buy now from Amazon.co.uk >>

WeatherBeeta fleece bandage

New from Weatherbeeta, these fleece bandages come in a pack of four and offer good protection to your horse’s legs. They are made of a high quality fleece fabric which contains strong anti-pilling properties and are three and a half metres in length.

RRP: £20.99

Visit: www.weatherbeeta.co.uk

Showmaster leg wraps

The good thing about these leg wraps is that they are extra-large (47 x 85cm) which means they provide good protection and support when worn in the stable. Not only that, they are generously padded, to help give extra support and warmth to tired or injured legs.

RRP: £17.90

Visit: www.kramer.co.uk

Premier Equine bandage pad wraps

These lightweight pads incorporate three layers of comfortable and soft towelling to absorb and dry moisture, wicking it away from your horse’s coat. The inner foam layer provides cushioning, helps protect against knocks and provide warmth. They are available in three different sizes ranging from 27cm wide to 40 cm wide.

RRP: £10.99 per pair

Visit: www.premierequine.co.uk

HyIMPACT Stable protection boot

The HyIMPACT Stable protection boots offer a convenient, effective alternative to traditional stable bandages that saves both time and effort. The boots are available in three different sizes to cater for a variety of horses and are designed in a practical black fabric with a grey lining. Their Velcro straps allow an adjustable fit for support and to aid circulation yet avoid the pressure points and lessen the risk of tendons bowing. They are also breathable and have the ability to wick moisture away from your horse’s skin.

RRP: £24.99

Visit: www.hy-equestrian.com

Buy now from Amazon.co.uk >>

Eskadron Climatex bandage pads

Designed three dimensionally to improve air circulation and give added breathability these Eskadron Climatex wraps also provide the great protection and support.

RRP: from £22 for set of four

Visit: www.edgemere.co.uk

Buy now from Amazon.co.uk >>

LeMieux stable bandages

These bandages are made with hard wearing knitted fabric, which is good for breathability and allow moisture to escape. The Velcro fastenings allow even pressure, measure 4.20meters and are sold in pairs.

RRP: £16.95 for a pair

Visit: www.lemieuxproducts.com

Buy now from Amazon.co.uk >>

Rhinegold knitted bandages

Made for a range of purposes including protection in the stable, securing a dressing or when travelling and come complete with a re-usable carry bag. Like the LeMieux stable bandages they are made of knitted fabric and available in a variety of colours

RRP: £ 11.95 for a set of four

Visit: www.rhinegold.eu

Buy now from Amazon.co.uk >>

TransHorse Sport leg wraps

TransHorse Sport leg wraps are made using protecting memory foam with the part of the bandage nearest the hoof being covered with strong microfibre, adding to the durability of these bandages. The inside is made of cotton to keep a horse’s leg dry and allow breathability.

RRP: £26.99 per pair

Visit: www.horze.co.uk

Buy now from Amazon.co.uk >>

Protechmasta Leg wraps

These soft, wicking, air mesh wraps also have clever ceramic content that means these wraps have therapeutic properties: they regulate temperature, stimulate blood flow and help to promote the repairing of wear and tear.. They come in a range of sizes in black.

RRP: £65 a pair

Visit: www.harryhall.com

Buy now at Amazon.co.uk >>

Premier Equine No Bow bandage wraps

Badly applied traditional gamgee underneath stables bandage carries a risk of causing your horse’s tendons to bow. These wraps apply a more even pressure to your horse’s legs and lessen the risk of bowing . They fit securely, are lightweight and strong.

RRP: £10.99 per pair

Visit: www.premierequine.co.uk

Renowned for its protective horse boot collection, Kentucky Horsewear has recently launched the Kentucky Tendon Grip Bandages.

They can be used under the boot to offer additional support around the tendon area.

“Elasticated and tubular, this bandage can be cut to size and also offers protection against rubbing. It is easy to put on and take off as well as being machine washable and reusable”, said a spokesman for the brand.

The Kentucky Tendon Grip Bandages are available at a RRP of £29.

For more information visit www.equiport.co.uk.

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

A new wrap bandage is now available in the UK, exclusively from Performance Rider.

The “state-of-the-art” T-Sport Wraps from EquiFit “provide riders with peace of mind that their horses’ legs are supported without the risk of sore points or excess sweating”.

“T-Sport Wraps transfer heat away from your horse’s legs during exercise ensuring they stay cool and dry,” said a spokesman for the company.

“The fabric allows air to circulate, which results in clean and sweat-free legs, minimising the potential damage caused by overheating tendons.”

According to the company, the wraps absorb 97% of shock and vibration under impact and stretch and fit he leg.

T-Sport Wraps cost £55.99.

For more information visit: www.performancerider.co.uk

Stay in touch with all the news in the run-up to and throughout the major shows and events during 2026 and beyond with a Horse & Hound subscription. Subscribe today for all you need to know ahead of these major events, plus online reports on the action as it happens from our expert team of reporters and in-depth analysis in our special commemorative magazines. Have a subscription already? Set up your unlimited website access now

More articles on equestrian equipment

Q: What are the benefits of cold bandages for use after exercise?

MT, Lincs

Cooling compression bandages are used by human and equine athletes after exercise to help prevent muscle and tendon injuries, reduce tissue temperature and increase muscle recovery.

The cooling bandage reduces discomfort and draws out heat, while the compression enhances the therapeutic effects of the bandage and reduces swelling.

Cooling compression bandages are useful for horses whose muscles have been exerted through training or exercise, and are especially popular with event riders and driving competitors, in the cross-country and marathon stages respectively.

According to Peter Phillips from Abbey Saddlery, distributors of the Blue Kool range of products from Pro-Equine, cooling compression bandages can be invaluable for horse owners, especially during the competition season.

“These products are applied directly to the skin to maintain a cold, therapeutic temperature for a longer period of time than an ordinary ice pack would provide,” said Peter.

“Elasticated cooling compression bandages are recommended by top athletic trainers, physicians, vets and therapists, as they provide both cold compression and support, ideal for use post-training or competition, for increased equine muscle recovery.”

Who uses them?

Top carriage driving competitor Georgina Frith is a fan of cooling bandages.

“I use them after a hard day’s competition, to relieve any pain and swelling from sprains, bruises and aching joints. The bandages are very practical; they are effective when used straight from the first aid kit, without any previous refrigeration,” she said.

“We use Blue Kool wraps, which are impregnated with a cooling gel and are easy to use — the product wraps completely around the leg area to cool the limb from all sides, and allows for freedom of movement due to its elasticity.”

Where can I get them?

Blue Kool wraps are non-toxic and non-irritant; the gel is 96% water, so the product is easily re-hydrated by running water over the bandage. The wraps can be refrigerated before use, or used straight from a tack or cool box.

They come in various sizes priced from £9.99.

Information

Abbey Saddlery, tel: 01565 650343 www.abbeysaddlery.co.uk

This Q&A was first published in Horse & Hound (26 March, ’09)

Read more articles on equestrian equipment

Bandaging is a skill acquired with practice. It has a variety of purposes — warmth, support, protection and immobilisation. Whatever the specific use of the bandage, it must be correctly applied to give firm, even pressure. If a bandage is too tight, it can restrict the circulation and lead to the formation of pressure sores or serious injury such as tendon damage. If a bandage is too loose, it will not serve its purpose and can become a hazard to the horse.

Bandaging the limb

Essentially, any bandage should have three layers.

On the inside is a non-stick clean dressing, which is attached to the wound. If there is no wound and you are applying a protective or support bandage, this layer is unnecessary.

The middle is the crucial padding that protects any injury, absorbs discharge, controls swelling and helps prevent bandage rubs. If this is skimped on or forgotten, the horse will suffer.

The third is the outer wrapping, which holds the bandage in place and provides extra support.

When a bandage is applied to the leg, it is vital that sufficient padding, such as gamgee or cotton wool, is used underneath to distribute the pressure evenly. Before the bandage is applied, any wrinkles in the padding should be smoothed out to avoid creating pressure points.

When the bandage is applied, half its width should be overlapped on each turn, which will also ensure that the pressure is evenly distributed. If ties or Velcro fastenings are used to secure it, they should be fastened at the same pressure as the rest of the bandage, with any knots lying on the outside of the leg, thereby avoiding exerting pressure on the tendons at the front and back of the limb. It is safer to use sticky tape.

It is important that the padding protrudes from the top and the bottom of the bandage, to prevent it rubbing on unprotected skin.

If a bandage is applied too tightly or is uneven, it is possible to cause pressure sores in the underlying skin, which will result in unsightly white hair growing on the horse’s leg when it has healed. In more severe cases, it is possible to cause a “bandage bow”, where the underlying tendons are damaged due to the excessive pressure.

If for any reason a horse is not bearing full weight on the affected leg, the opposite leg, or, if necessary, all three limbs, should have support bandages applied.

Checking bandages

Bandages should be checked twice daily to ensure they are neither too tight nor too loose. You should just be able to insert two fingers between the top of the bandage and the skin. If this is not possible, the bandage may be too tight. However, if it is easy to insert two fingers, with the bandage sagging away from the fingers, it may be too loose and liable to slip.

Wounds

When bandaging a wound, the same basic principles must be followed, although it is also necessary to consider the covering to be applied to the wound. A non-adherent dressing should be used so that it does not stick to the wound surface — for example, Melolin or Allevyn.

The dressing will also provide additional padding over the surface of the wound and should be secured in place. An ideal base for this purpose is a thin layer of cotton wool such as Soffban or Orthoban, which cannot be applied too tightly, as it will tear if any tension is used when applying it.

The gamgee or cotton wool padding should be applied over the top of this layer, and secured in place with a conforming cotton bandage. Then the third layer of self-adhesive bandage material, for example, Vetwrap, may be applied to help secure the bandage.

Awkward areas

Although applying a bandage to the lower limb (cannon bone and pastern) can be relatively straightforward, other areas pose more of a challenge. When a bandage is applied to either the hock or the knee, the constant movement in the joint can lead to it loosening and slipping down the leg, which will create pressure points in the skin and structures beneath.

In addition, care must be taken to provide adequate protection for the accessory carpal bone on the forelimb, and the point of the hock in the hindlimb. These are bony prominences with very little soft tissue, and are therefore extremely susceptible to the development of pressure sores.

There are proprietary elasticated zip-up “stockings” available in a range of sizes, designed for use specifically on knees, hocks or fetlocks. All that is required is a non-stick dressing over the wound, secured in place by a thin conforming layer of cotton, before the stocking is applied. In the case of knee and hock wounds, a stable bandage is applied to the lower limb to provide additional support and prevent the stocking from slipping down the leg.

Tubular bandages, such as Tubigrip, can also be used to hold a dressing over awkward areas such as joints. The bandage is secured to the hair above the joint with an adhesive dressing such as Elastoplast. A stable bandage is applied to the lower limb to secure the bottom of the tubular bandage. These should be used with care, as repeated application and removal of adhesive dressings can make the skin sore.

Specialist bandages

While it may not appear to be a specialist type of bandage, a tail bandage needs careful application. It is the only bandage that is applied directly to the skin with no padding layer underneath, and because of this it is vital that it is applied correctly.

A tail bandage is frequently left on for long periods of time, depending on the length of a journey, and, if it is applied too tightly, can restrict the circulation in the dock. This may lead to loss of tail hair and sloughing of skin and in serious cases, where the blood supply is completely occluded, the tail may have to be amputated.

Following abdominal surgery, for example, for colic, a belly band may be applied. This is a large bandage that goes all the way round the horse’s abdomen to provide increased support to the incision and prevent contamination of the incision, for example, from bedding in the stable if the horse lies down.

The belly band can either be a proprietary large elasticated bandage applied over a gamgee pad to protect the incision, or it may be an adhesive bandage wrapped around the abdomen over a gamgee pad. If a belly band is used for any length of time, padding must also be applied over the spine to prevent the development of pressure sores.

Another specialist bandage is the Robert Jones bandage, which offers very firm support and is used for:

• the stabilisation of certain fractures
• to support an injured limb
• to protect the limb following surgery

It can be applied to either the whole limb or just the lower half. A non-stick dressing is placed over the wound and held in place by a layer of orthopaedic padding. A thick layer of cotton wool is then applied, secured and compressed by a conforming cotton bandage. This step is repeated a number of times until a solid, support bandage is achieved. A final, adhesive layer is then applied.

• This veterinary feature was first published in Horse & Hound

When faced with the prospect of bandaging a knee or hock, many horse owners don’t really know where to start. In most cases the vet will have applied the initial dressing while the owner was busy holding the horse.

Linda Loins of the equine nursing team at the Bell Equine Veterinary Clinic says: “Most people have an idea of how to apply a figure of eight bandage on the knee or hock. However, many forget that the point of the hock and back of the knee should be left uncovered, if possible, to allow for movement and avoid friction sores.”

Pressure sores can occur within hours, while deeper tendon and soft tissue problems can occur from repeated tight bandaging or from a tight bandage being left on too long.

Problems can be avoided by being aware of a few simple facts:

• Always bandage legs in pairs. If the near side foreleg is injured then apply a stable bandage to the off-side fore to offer the leg support while it carries most of the horse’s weight.
• Stable bandages should be applied from just below the hock or knee to just above the coronary band.
• Always use a layer of padding such as gamgee before applying the bandage. This helps spread the pressure, reducing the chance of sores.
• Ensure the bandage is not applied too tightly or with uneven pressure.
• Bandages designed to stick to themselves should be applied carefully to ensure a correct level of tension and should be changed daily.

Bandaging the hoof

Keeping dressings on a horse’s hoof is notoriously difficult. Self-adhesive bandages, a roll of duct tape and a newborn baby’s nappy are the perfect, if somewhat unlikely, combination of materials for this job.

Once the dressing is in place, the nappy is ideally shaped to provide absorbent padding while keeping the area dry and can be held in place with a combination of duct tape and the bandage. Either a T- or star-shaped duct tape design is normally most successful in keeping the protection in place.

Be careful not to bandage too tightly around the coronet band as this is susceptible to pressure and could cause further problems.

Q: I’m confused about how to fit exercise and stable bandages. I know it’s dangerous for them to be too tight, but I don’t want them to slip down. Also, could you explain how to fit tendon boots?

Stephanie Soskin(BHSInt) replies: Whether you are using stable or exercise bandages it is essential they are fitted correctly.

Stable bandages can be made from wool or man-made fibre. They should be 4-5ins wide and about 7ft long. They are usually put on top of fybagee or Gamgee (from Robinson Animal Healthcare on (tel: 01246 220 022), unless the bandages are designed to go on the leg without extra padding.

Most often used for warmth, promoting circulation and to offer extra support for tired or injured legs, stable bandages are also helpful for drying off wet legs and keeping surgical dressings in place.

To put any bandage on properly it must be wrapped up firmly and you should make sure the tapes are rolled inside the right way. The bandage should then be put on the horse’s leg firmly, with even tension.

There shouldn’t be any lumps or bumps and if tapes are being used to secure the bandage, make sure they are tied with the same tension as the bandage. Keep them flat, tie a bow on the outside and tuck in the ends.

The finished stable bandage should fit from just below the knee or hock to the coronet band, with the fybagee showing half an inch at the top and bottom.

Exercise bandages

Exercise bandages are used to protect against bruising and brushing injuries when working.

They can also offer support. Made from stretch material, such as elastic or crepe, they should be at least three inches wide and six feet long. Gamgee, fybagee or Porter boots should be positioned underneath the bandages.

Exercise bandages can be tighter thanstable bandages as they are elastic and not worn for long periods, but do make sure the tension is even.

The bandages should be fitted from just below the knee or hock to just above the fetlock joint.

Exercise bandages are normally secured with tapes. Tie the tapes in a bow on the outside of the leg and tuck the ends in. For safety, especially if you are going across country, the tapes should be sewn or bound with insulation tape.

Some bandages have broad tapes with a clip and Velcro, which are fine for flatwork, but need further securing for cross-country. Wet or muddy bandages can be heavy and shrink so they shouldn’t be worn for long rides or hunting.

To answer your other question, tendon boots look like brushing boots but offer extra protection down the back of the leg to prevent the tendon from being struck by the hind legs.

They should sit snugly into the leg between the knee and the fetlock joint. Open-fronted tendon boots are often used in showjumping.

They offer protection at the back but leave the front of the cannon bone exposed. Like other boots they should be fastened on the outside of the leg and the straps should point to the back.

• Click here for expert advice on choosing the right type of protective boot for your horse.
• Click here to read professional riders’ thoughts on whether boots or bandages are better.

Exercise bandages support a horse’s legs, protecting them from knocks when he is in work.

The bandage should be fitted just below the knee or hock, to just above the fetlock joint. There should be padding, such as Fybagee or Gamgee, underneath.

Exercise bandages should not impede the flexion of the horse’s joints and it is vital that the tension is even.

The bandages should be removed straight after work and must not be left on, or unchecked, for long periods.

A step-by-step guide to correct bandaging:

• Check that the Gamgee/Fibagee is the correct size.
• Starting on the inside or the outside, wrap the chosen padding smoothly round the leg, working from front to the back, finishing on the outside.
• Start bandaging from the top of the padding with the bandage facing front to back and leaving a spare tab of approximately 3ins above the padding.
• After the first turn of the bandage, fold down the tab and do the second turn over the top to secure the end.
• Continue down the leg covering approximately two-thirds of the preceeding turn of bandage each time. Keep the pressure even all the way down and ensure there are no wrinkles in either the bandage or the padding.
• Take the bandage to the level of the ergot (the adding may be half an inch below this), then return up the leg leaving an inverted “V” at the front of the fetlock joint where the bandage crosses itself as it changes direction. Return up the leg, maintaining the same pressure.
• Keeping the ties flat, wrap them around the leg ensuring they are not tighter than the bandage. Secure with a reef knot on the outside of the leg, never on the bone in front or the tendon at the back.
• Fold top half of last turn of bandage down to cover the knot. For competition, secure bandage with three strips of tape, taking care not to pull the tape too tightly across the tendon.
• For greater security, sew the bandage in place. Use cross-stitch and make sure all the layers of the bandage are sewn.