Latest from Horse & Hound in Advice

10 experts reveal the products they can’t live without at a horse show

Bethan Simons — Fri, 10 Jul 2026 14:30:33 +0000

After a busy first half of the season, it’s likely your grooming kit or stripping basket are in need of a refresh – this could be true whether your next stop is an area show or you’re prepping for a week at the Royal International.

From emergency saviours to cheap hacks, we asked some top producers what they can’t live without on show days.

Show kit essentials

Hannah Horton: “I wouldn’t contemplate going showing without good old baby wipes – they can be used for anything. We also make sure we have drinks for humans in the stripping basket.”

Emma Burrows: “For me, I need a good mane and tail detangler, coat gloss and a bit of baby oil gel [like this one] to smooth the hair.”

Danielle Heath: “We love Smart Grooming Super Shine; it’s fantastic on faces and gives a mega shine on bodies, too, especially in an evening performance.”

Having products you can rely on in your basket will make things easier on show day. (Image credit: Elli Birch)

Joe Watson: “This olive oil sheen spray is brilliant on our natives’ manes and tails especially,” he says, “and we use it as a coat gloss and highlighter, too. It’s not very expensive, which is great as we go through tons of the stuff.”

Leon King: “It has to be this Got2b hair gel for plaiting. We always have Leovet’s Power Phaser fly spray and this Cowboy Magic shampoo as well as their Detangler and Shine on tails; it’s incredible – like nothing else I have tried.”

Sara Parrott: “If I had to choose one product that I couldn’t be without it would have to be Supreme Products’ Sparkle Spray for those last minute finishing touches, manes, coats and tails – and even hooves and rider’s boots at a push!”

Sue-Helen Shuttleworth: “On the lorry we always have a good shampoo to quickly wash and dry if horses need it after travelling or working in. Personally I use Equioils Super Soap, Equioils Whitening Wood Flour and towels.

“In the strip basket there’s always a good, clean damp sponge for wiping away saddle marks before the conformation phase, and a good mane and tail brush.

And there’s always full fat Coke and sweets to keep us going.”

Harrison Taylor: “We use glycerine mixed in water for a sponge over, then Arena Products’ Show Shine spray on top. I also use Arena Products’ Clear Highlighter, which contains SPF for eyes and muzzle, black make up, Brylcreem, hair spray and baby wipes.”

Edward Young: “We always have tea, sugar and milk on the lorry. We also have a portable shower to wash any plaiting gel out of the manes and condition them when we unplait; it must be more comfortable for them, and it stops the mane getting too brittle. In my stripping bucket I carry fly spray, Brylcreem as long as it’s not too hot and sunny, hoof-stain, a good brush and a cloth [like this one].”

Simon Reynolds: “Our basket is like Mary Poppins’ bag; we carry everything we could possibly need as there’s nothing worse than having to go back to the lorry if you have forgotten something. But essentials include wet wipes and plaiting bands, plus electrical tape [like this] can be a great save in an emergency. And I’m diabetic so we always have fizzy sweets, too.”

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What do hosepipe bans mean for horse owners in the UK?

Georgia Guerin — Fri, 10 Jul 2026 13:35:17 +0000

As those living in the UK are in the midst of yet another heatwave, and some water companies have announced hosepipe bans, where does this leave horse owners who are trying to keep horses cool and prevent dehydration?

Currently, some customers of Southern Water, South East Water and Cambridge Water are facing water usage restrictions. Anglian Water customers will also be under restriction from 1am Saturday, 11 July.

Affinity Water has also put a hosepipe ban in place across its Central area, which covers parts of Bedfordshire, Berkshire, Buckinghamshire, Essex, Hertfordshire, Surrey and parts of London – this will come into effect on Friday, 17 July.

Other areas are not currently affected, but some water companies, such as Severn Trent, have asked customers to be mindful of their usage and issued guidance on how to reuse water where possible.

Washing horses down with a hosepipe is still allowed under hosepipe restrictions. (Image credit: creditUnknown)

Hosepipe ban exemptions?

The good news is that while the rules outlaw the use of hosepipes for washing cars and watering gardens, the use of a hosepipe for the cleaning, maintenance and general wellbeing of any kind of animal is exempt from hosepipe ban rules.

The Government requires that the welfare of animals must be protected at all times, including during a hosepipe ban – or as it is more correctly called a Temporary Use Ban (TUB).

What is allowed during a hosepipe ban?

Examples of what is allowed under the TUB restrictions include:

Washing horses down with a hosepipe
Filling up water troughs and buckets with a hosepipe
Cleaning out lorries, trailers and stables with a hosepipe

As long as you are genuinely using a hosepipe for the welfare of your horse and not abusing the interpretation of these rules, you should have no concerns. Responsible use of water is encouraged at the stables, as it is in your homes, to avoid putting added pressure on the supply during this period of high temperatures with little no rain forecast.

If you’d like further reassurance or information, you can contact your local water company for clarification.

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If your horse thinks ditches are full of monsters, this expert advice will help build their confidence

Ellie Hughes — Fri, 10 Jul 2026 09:15:47 +0000

Of all the obstacles on a cross-country course, ditches – in their various forms – often cause the most angst. Some horses tackle them with aplomb from the get-go, but most need plenty of quiet repetition to develop their confidence. Olympians and top coaches Nicola Wilson, Chris Bartle and Andrew Heffernan share their tips in this article exclusive to H&H subscribers

Quiet, slow repetition is the key to how to solve your horse’s fear of ditches. To build – or rebuild – confidence in jumping ditches, it’s vital to start this part of his eventing training from scratch, says British team performance coach Chris Bartle. He explains that it is a mistake to ask a horse to tackle a ditch without giving him the opportunity to look at it first.

“With a young horse, or a horse that is nervous, I will always take them to the ditch with no intention of jumping it,” he says. “I will let them stand beside it and walk around it until they are comfortable in the environment.

“Only when I know they are happy about being there – they will stretch their head down and have a sniff – will I ask them to step over the ditch.

“The important thing to remember is that the horse must never be pressurised from behind, either by the rider or someone on the ground, because all that’s doing is encouraging him to think backwards rather than forwards.”

Initially, at least, ditches should be small enough so that human legs can easily step over them.

“I measure a ditch by whether I need to stretch over it on foot,” says Chris. “It doesn’t matter whether the horse is four, seven or 14, my approach will be the same. If a horse is hesitant I will spend all my cross-country schooling time walking quietly over tiny ditches.”

Chris argues that it’s not necessary to school over big ditches.

“If you’ve built solid foundations, these can be saved for competition when your adrenaline’s up,” he says.

How to solve your horse’s fear of ditches: “trust is everything”

When working on how to solve your horse’s fear of ditches, “confidence and trust is everything” says former European champion-turned-top coach, Nicola Wilson.

This starts with laying the right foundations and revisiting the basics on a regular basis.

“When you introduce a ditch for the first time make sure you’ve got a confident horse to give you a lead and choose an inviting ditch to start with,” she says.

Nicola also emphasises the importance of rider position.

“It’s important that you look in the right place – up, not down into the ditch,” she says. “A young or inexperienced horse will often look down into the ditch and dither on the edge. This is fine so long as you stay up in your body and have a nice, supportive leg on them and a long rein so they can stretch down, use their head and neck and safely pop over.

“It’s a really good idea to use a neck strap so you can hold the strap together with your reins in one hand,” she continues. “If your horse jumps bigger than you’re expecting you won’t lose balance and inadvertently catch him in the mouth, which can turn it into a negative experience.”

Nicola agrees that repetition is key.

“If your horse lacks confidence jumping ditches it’s important to keep revisiting them on a regular basis so that walking up to them and popping over becomes second nature,” says Nicola. “There are plenty of five-star horses who will do just this on the lead-up to a big competition, so it’s not something you should be worried about. The key is to be as prepared as possible.”

Nicola also extols the value of praise and patience.

“Tell your horse when he has done well because this helps build trust and solid foundations,” she says. “And always give ditch training time. Never start something that you don’t feel you can see through the end.”

Once your homework is done, testing your training in a competition environment is the next step.

“When you’re out on the course, make sure you stay in a good rhythm and balance, and in the correct tempo for the ditch fence you’re tackling,” says Nicola.

Icelandic ponies queueing up to jump a ditch in the wild – it comes quite naturally to most. (Image credit: Alamy)

When ditches are your friend

Once you have ironed out how to solve your horse’s fear of ditches and they are confidently moving up the eventing levels, most ditches will become a help rather than a hindrance.

“Where a ditch has a fence over it or behind it, the ditch itself acts as a useful ground rail, defining the take-off point,” explains Chris. “Big ditch-brushes, trakheners, and anything like that where the ditch ledge is on the take-off side, makes for a horse-friendly profile.”

Even though this four-star fence is daunting, the ditch provides a helpful groundline. (Image credit: Martin Dokoupil/ZUMA Wire/Alamy)

Chris explains that when riding this type of fence, you should resist the temptation to spend too much time much setting up.

“When I was a jockey, before I started eventing, a trainer once told me that you should always increase your speed into a ditch,” he says. “You will never get the wrong stride because there is a groundline. I always remind riders of this when I walk courses with them as it saves a lot of time.”

Ditches through a course-designer’s eyes

Course-designers use ditches in different ways. Olympic event rider, trainer and Bramham course-designer Andrew Heffernan explains that as well as the size of the ditch size, where it is sited will determine the level of the test.

“Part of my job as course-designer is to ensure there is a logical progression in difficulty as you go up the grades,” he explains. “For example, on a B80 course I might include a small open ditch followed three strides later by a rails fence, at BE90 this might change to a rail followed three strides later by a ditch. By the time you get to BE100 I might be asking horses to jump a simple rail-ditch-rail on flat terrain, and then at novice level you can start expecting to see a ditch with a bit of terrain either side.”

At the lower levels, ditches tend to be inviting, to encourage the horse to progress. (Image credit: Alamy)

This logical progression has obvious connotations for a horse who is a bit “ditchy”.

“Even if a horse is solid with every other type of cross-country question, he needs to be completely confident jumping ditches at one level before moving on to the next,” says Andrew. “The questions asked of him — and therefore the trust he needs in his rider — will be tested to a greater degree every time you step up.”

“We dug a ditch at home and that was the turning point”

Event rider Ivy Fisher’s talented three-star mare, Balief De Reve (Bali), only has one chink in her armour – ditches.

“When I bought her as a young horse she had only ever showjumped and although she quickly took to jumping solid fences, she’s always been suspicious of holes in the ground,” explained Ivy, who grew up in Norfolk but has been based with Dassett Eventing in Warwickshire.

“A few years ago, when I was on the brink of giving up with her, my dad dug me a ditch at home and that was the turning point. It was a case of repetition, repetition, repetition. The penny dropped in the middle of the 2024 season and she started to take them in her stride.”

The pair won the under-21 open intermediate at Kelsall Hill in September that year.

At her current base, Ivy has access to three different ditches and incorporates them into almost every training session.

“Last season I was even including them in our fitness work, popping over a ditch mid-canter,” she says. “We still have the odd wobble, but she’s getting better all the time. Bali’s taught me so much about perseverance, getting the basics right and about not running before you can walk.”

For more expert training advice from top riders and coaches, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

Complete Pony Club Camp packing checklist for child and pony

Bethany Stone — Thu, 09 Jul 2026 13:04:05 +0000

Struggling to work out what to pack for Pony Club camp? You don’t want your child to be missing anything, but you don’t want to send them with everything but the kitchen sink, either. Don’t worry, there’s still plenty of time to prepare and plug any gaps in your kit.

Your Pony Club may have a specific list tailored to their camp, but between the team at H&H, we’ve got many Pony Club camps under our belt – both as children and as parents – so we’re here with plenty of advice and ideas. Our top tip – make sure absolutely everything is named.

Pony Club camp packing list

Because the quintessential Pony Club camp packing list is rather long, we’re going to break it down into categories. We’ll start with the thing you definitely don’t want to leave at home – your pony!

Tack and horsewear

saddle
bridle
neck strap
martingale (if using)
girth
stirrups and leathers
saddle cloths or numnahs in your branch or centre’s permitted colours – take more than one in case they get dirty or sweaty
any legwear your pony uses, such as overreach boots, brushing boots or tendon boots
stud kit (if used)
headcollar and leadrope
tail and stable bandages
tack cleaning equipment, like saddle soap and a sponge
all your travel kit, to get your pony there in the first place

Pony care

First and foremost, check with your branch or centre about whether they will provide bedding that is suitable for your pony. If not, make sure to pack your own.

Also, check what your pony’s living arrangements will be. Will he be living out, and do you need to bring some electric fencing? Will you have access to a stable? Find out in advance so you can prepare.

You’ll want your own of most things, but you might be able to team up with other campers when it comes to the big items, such as wheelbarrows.

enough of your pony’s hay/haylage, feed and supplements to last the duration of camp
feed bin (like this one)
buckets for water and feed
haynets
wheelbarrow, large trug or garden bag (like this one) for mucking out
mucking out tools
grooming kit with all your brushes
sweat scraper and sponge
stud kit, if needed
your best horse shampoo
fly spray
horse sun cream, if needed
other grooming sprays if you use them, like mane and tail detangler or stain remover
rugs, such as a cooler or fly rug and fly mask if needed

Pony Club camp is as much about time off the ponies, so make sure you’ve got non-riding clothes packed, too. (Image credit: Emma Herrod Photography)

Rider kit

If you plan to stay overnight, pack accordingly for your accommodation. You may want a warm layer or two if you are camping!

Pony Club sweatshirt
Pony Club tie
white shirts
a few pairs of jodhpurs or riding tights (usually beige, black or navy, check your branch or centre’s rules)
tweed or show jacket (if needed)
plenty of riding socks and underwear
riding boots, either long or short with jodhpur clips or chaps/gaiters
hairnet and scrunchie (if needed)
riding gloves
whip
up-to-standard and tagged riding hat
up-to-standard body protector
casual tops and bottoms for off-horse activities
coveralls or waterproof trousers for mucking out
stout boots or wellies for the yard
trainers or comfy shoes for off the yard
sun hat
waterproof coat
pyjamas

Other essentials

toiletries
sun lotion
insect repellent
prescription medication (if used)
pillow and sleeping bag
camp bed (like this one, if needed) or airbed
towels
plate, mug and cutlery for mealtimes (if needed)
boot cleaning equipment
notebook and pen
Pony Club Manual of Horsemanship
water bottle
small personal first aid kit
torch
watch or alarm clock

Extras

pack of cards
book to read (check out the best horse books for kids)
torch
small amount of money for tuck
hand sanitiser
hair bobbles
swimming kit, if required
portable fan, for you or your pony if it’s hot
portable power bank (like this one)

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Flying changes explained: what they are, how to ride one and how to teach your horse

Oscar Williams — Wed, 08 Jul 2026 15:43:24 +0000

Flying changes are unavoidably cool. I can still remember attempting my first – getting a friend to film me on their pixelated flip phone, beaming a stupid grin at the camera as my little pony leapt into her change and promptly bombed off. We’ll ignore, for now, that she was two strides late behind.

But there’s no doubt they can feel like a mystery until you get that “aha” moment where it finally clicks. And because every horse is different, there’s no single foolproof way to teach them.

The good news is there’s nothing magic about them. A flying change is a natural movement – your horse already does them loose in the field – and with the right foundations, most horses can learn to do them to order (making you look suitably cool in the process).

Here’s what a flying change actually is, how to ride one, and how to start teaching your horse – without flinging your entire bodyweight to one side as I did.

What is a flying change?

A flying change is when your horse switches their leading leg in canter, in one smooth motion, without breaking to trot or walk in between.

A quick step back, in case it’s useful: in canter, your horse leads with one front leg – it reaches further forward than the other, and you’ll feel that shoulder come through underneath you. On a left lead, the left foreleg leads; on a right lead, the right. Which lead you’re on matters for balance, especially on turns and circles, where you normally want the inside leg leading – so on the right rein, going clockwise, you’ll be on the right lead most of the time, and on the left rein, the left.

Canter has a three-beat rhythm, and after the third beat there’s a brief moment of suspension – a split second where all four feet are off the ground, and your horse is, fleetingly, airborne. A flying change happens in that instant. Your horse rearranges their legs mid-air and lands on the opposite lead, so instead of leading with the left foreleg, they’re now leading with the right. Done well, there’s no stumble and no change of rhythm – just a clean skip from one lead to the other, as if your horse has hopped across in the air.

You’ll come across flying changes in pretty much every discipline:

Dressage: they appear from advanced medium level upwards, ridden on straight lines and, higher up, in sequences down to one change every stride (tempi changes).
Showjumping: essential for jumping a course smoothly. A horse that lands on the correct lead – or changes to it – can balance through turns and meet the next fence in rhythm, without losing time or scrambling.
Eventing, showing, and general riding: anywhere you’re cantering, turning and needing your horse balanced, a change keeps things tidy and comfortable.

For a lower-level rider, it’s less about the wow factor – although that’s cool, too – and more about control. A horse that changes lead on request is one you can balance and steer through anything, whether that’s a jump-off turn, a dressage centre line, or just staying upright out hunting.

How to ride a flying change

Assuming your horse already knows how to change (see the next section for teaching it), here’s the sequence of aids. The key thing is that a change is prepared, not just thrown in – you set your horse up, then ask.

1. Establish a good canter first. Balanced, active and collected enough that you feel you could ride a few steps smaller at any moment. A flat, strung-out canter has nowhere to change from.

2. Prepare on the approach to the change. Sit tall, half-halt to gather and balance the canter, and make sure your horse is straight – not falling in or out through the shoulder.

3. Change your leg position. Say you’re on the left lead (left foreleg leading) and want to change to the right. Your left leg, which has been at the girth, moves back behind the girth, and your right leg comes to the girth. This new leg position tells your horse which lead you now want.

4. Change your weight and hips. As you swap your legs, allow your seat and hips to follow – so your weight shifts subtly to the new leading side. Keep it quiet; it’s just a rebalancing, not throwing yourself across the saddle.

5. Ask in that moment of suspension. Apply the new outside leg (the left, now behind the girth) with a clear but light aid, ideally timed to the moment your horse is about to spring into the next stride. That’s when your horse can swing their legs through to the new lead.

6. Keep riding forward. Ride positively out of the change on the new lead. The most common mistake is to ask and then freeze or pull back on the reins – we’ve all done it, but both stop your horse jumping through cleanly.

The rhythm to aim for is almost “prepare… now go!” A change asked for in one flat motion tends to come late or flat; a change that’s set up first has time to jump through the body.

How to teach a flying change

Before you teach the change itself, the foundations have to be solid – it’s not as exciting, but this is the most important part. Rushing to the change before these are in place is the single most common reason changes go wrong. Your horse should be able to:

Pick up either canter lead promptly, from a clear aid, on a straight line.
Ride balanced walk-to-canter and canter-to-walk transitions without falling onto the forehand. (“On the forehand” just means your horse is carrying too much weight on their front end, rather than pushing from behind. You’ll feel it as heaviness in your hands, your horse tipping downhill or leaning on the reins for balance. What you want instead is your horse staying light in front and stepping their hindlegs underneath themselves – think uphill, not downhill.)
Hold a counter-canter (cantering on the “outside” or “wrong” lead) in balance. This teaches your horse to stay on the lead you’ve asked for rather than swapping whenever they fancy.

Once those are established, here’s a simple and reliable way to introduce the change:

1. Use a change of direction. Ride a shallow loop, a figure-of-eight, or come across the diagonal – anywhere your horse is naturally changing bend and direction, so a change of lead makes sense to them.

2. Establish a clean canter, then rebalance. As you approach the point where you’ll change direction, half-halt and collect the canter, so your horse is balanced and listening.

3. Ask as you cross the line. At the moment you change direction, change your leg and seat position and apply the new aid. Because your horse is already changing direction, switching lead feels logical.

4. Reward the attempt. Even a scrappy first change – or one that’s “late behind” (the front legs change but the hind legs lag a stride) – is worth rewarding. You’re building understanding first; the cleanliness comes with practice and strength.

5. Keep it occasional at first. Ask for one, make a fuss of your horse, and move on. Drilling changes over and over tends to make horses tense or anticipatory. A few good attempts in a session are plenty.

If your horse finds it genuinely confusing, some riders use a raised pole or cavaletti on the change line to encourage your horse to jump through and swap behind – but I’d say use it sparingly at first, and only if plain riding isn’t getting there.

Above all, don’t panic if the first attempts are messy. Late, flat or over-excited changes are completely normal early on. They clean up as your horse’s balance and confidence improve – which, as any good trainer will tell you, is really where the whole thing lives.

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How to ride the perfect flying change

Horse & Hound — Wed, 08 Jul 2026 15:43:24 +0000

US dressage rider, trainer and author Jane Savoie, who passed away in December 2020, explains how to ride the flying change and what skills the horse needs to have established before you to introduce the movement

In order to learn how to ride a flying change, it is important to understand what the movement is. In the flying change the horse remains in canter, but changes the canter lead during the moment of suspension, when all four feet are off the ground. When competing in dressage it is important that changes are made cleanly, with both front and hind legs changing during the same moment of suspension.

A commonly seen mistake is when the horse changes in front in one stride and then behind in the following stride. This is less important when jumping, but the sooner the change is completed, the less balance in the canter will be lost. Cantering disunited to a fence is not giving the horse the best possible chance of cleaning that obstacle without incurring faults.

Preparing for flying changes

Before trying to teach a flying change the horse must be able to:

Produce a good simple change of lead (canter/walk/canter). The downward transition should be a clear transition to the walk, with no dribbly trot steps. Shorten the canter with collecting half halts before you ask for the transition. If the horse is travelling too fast he will lose his balance on to the forehand in the downward transition. The upwards transition should be quick off the leg without being rushed or explosive.
Be balanced in counter canter. Develop the counter canter until the horse can comfortably maintain it without tension on circles and lines. To test the horse’s balance ensure you can extend and collect in the counter canter without the horse switching leads.
Be comfortable in collected canter. As the flying change is another canter stride the quality of the canter is vital to its success. The canter should have big, round, expressive, “off the ground” strides. Any tendency towards a canter that is four-time or flat will not give the horse time to change his legs in the air. Develop and maintain the quality of the collected canter by working on exercises that increase collection such as shoulder-in, travers, frequent simple changes of lead (five strides of walk and five strides of canter), and collecting half halts.

Understanding the collecting half halt

During a collecting half halt the rider should close their legs, push with their seat and close their outside hand for a moment. This engages the horse’s hind quarters and encourages them to wait and “sit” on their hocks.

Ride three collecting half halts in the canter, while thinking about reducing the amount of ground your horse covers with each stride by about 50% but maintain the same rhythm and tempo. During the short, engaged strides, pick a spot on the ground and imagine that you’re cantering on top of it for three strides. Then, go forward for several strides, and ask him to collect again for three strides.

How to ride a flying change

The timing of the aids is very important in riding a successful flying change. Give the aids as the horse’s leading front leg is coming forward. You need to give the aid before the period of suspension because it takes your horse a moment to ‘hear’ your request and another moment to carry it out.

You can practice the correct timing of the aids in the walk and then the canter by watching when the horse’s inside front leg comes forward. Each time you see it coming forward, say out loud, “Now, now, now”. In this way, you learn to coordinate your voice with the inside front leg coming forward.

For a flying change from left to right:

Seat: Push your right seat bone forward toward your horse’s right ear.
Right leg: Close your right leg on the girth to ask your horse to go forward during the change.
Left leg: Swing your left leg behind the girth to signal the new outside hind leg to strike off into the new lead. (Don’t hold this leg back. Pretend your leg is spring-loaded so you give a quick aid.)
Left rein: Close your left hand in a fist to keep the left hind leg on the ground and maintain uphill balance. Imagine that you’re closing and opening your hand so fast that you can snatch a fly out of the air.
Right rein: Soften your right rein so you don’t block the new inside front leg from coming forward.

I like to introduce flying changes on a 10-meter figure of eight. Ride simple changes of lead in the centre of the figure of eight. Repeat until the horse understands and anticipates that he’s going to change leads. When you feel him anticipating, give the aids for the flying change instead of doing the simple change. If he changes, praise him a lot. If he doesn’t then stay calm and repeat the process.

Now you know how to perfect your flying changes, why not sign up to Horse & Hound’s eight-week e-training plan to give your training focus and perfect your flatwork basics?

How to trot up for the vet, and when you might need to do so

Bethany Stone — Tue, 07 Jul 2026 15:28:10 +0000

A veterinary professional may want to see your horse trot up for a number of reasons, but what’s the best way to do it?

A good trot-up gives the observer a clear view of the horse moving in a straight line and in balance, so their gait can be assessed.

Primarily, vets use trot-ups to check for soundness. Because the trot is an even gait, with legs moving in diagonal pairs, it’s easier to spot lameness or uneven loading of the limbs than in walk or canter.

When are horses trotted up for vets?

Vets might wish to see horses trotted up as part of:

a lameness examination, in which further tests, such as flexion tests, lungeing and a ridden exam might also be carried out
a pre-purchase examination, in which a vet is employed to assess the horse’s physically suitablity for a buyer
an FEI competition of any discipline to check the horses are fit to compete. At three-day events, there are two horse inspections: one before the dressage phase, and another following the cross-country phase. Horses have to pass both to be allowed to compete

The holding box

At an FEI event, the ground jury and veterinary delegate will pass a horse following a trot up or send him to a holding box for further examination.

The vet in the holding box performs a more thorough examination, including palpation and assessment of the horse’s limbs, to help identify any injuries — such as tendon injuries — that would prevent him from continuing in the competition.

A horse who has sustained a small overreach injury during the cross-country, for example, or who has pulled a shoe off, may appear slightly unlevel. After veterinary assessment, however, he may be deemed fit to complete a round of showjumping.

Some horses are then represented at the trot-up, while others might withdraw from competition at the holding box.

Vets may perform flexion tests before watching your horse trot up. Photo: Lucy Merrell (Image credit: Lucy Merrell)

Equipment to use to trot your horse up for the vet

Be ready to trot your horse up with:

a well-fitting bridle, headcollar or halter
stout, appropriate footwear, such as yard boots
a riding hat
riding gloves
a schooling whip, if needed

Vets will watch your horse trot away and towards. Photo: Bex Pattenden (Image credit: BEX PATTENDEN)

How to trot up a horse for the vet

Before considering how to trot up a horse, first select your surface. It should be level and not too loose, slippery or stony.

Stand your horse square. This allows the vet to walk around and examine the horse’s posture from every angle. Hold the reins in your right hand as if you were riding one-handed.
Trot the horse away as straight as you can, keeping an even rhythm and ensuring he has enough rein to move his head freely so the vet can see any abnormalities. Your horse should be active, but not too fast.
The vet may signal when they want you to turn and trot towards them, or if you’re unsure you can ask them to call out.
Ask your horse for a walk transition a few steps prior to turning. When you turn, your horse should always turn away from you to avoid being trodden on. Guide the horse towards you slightly before asking him to turn away. This will enable you to trot back on the same line.
Keep the horse straight towards the vet, but ensure you have sufficient control so as not to run them over.

It is worth clarifying whether the vet wants to see your horse walk first. If so, use the steps above in walk.

Furthermore, it is good to clarify how to trot up for the vet in particular. Some want to see the transition from trot to walk in front of them. You should make this transition very obvious.

If you have a young or inexperienced horse, practise the routine of trotting up so that when you need to do so you can produce a good, straight trot for your vet without any hassle. If you’re preparing to trot up at a competition, it’s worth you and your horse learning to trot correctly as a horse who is poorly presented may look uneven, even if he isn’t.

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Teach your horse to canter on the correct lead – and improve the transition – with this leg-yield exercise

Bethany Stone — Sun, 05 Jul 2026 07:21:46 +0000

Young, weak or unbalanced horses sometimes pick up canter on the incorrect lead. Over time, this has potential to become a habit.

Thankfully, there’s a simple flatwork exercise that requires you to ride a few steps of leg-yield to help your horse pick up the correct canter lead.

Aims

Correct your horse’s flexion
Connect the horse into the outside rein
Improve the canter transition

The setup

You need: a 20x40m or 20x60m arena

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

How to ride the exercise

Once warmed up, turn onto the three-quarter line in trot.
As you pass X, begin to leg-yield to the track. You can sit or rise, depending on what’s best for your horse. Aim to hit the track just after the corner marker.
Ask for canter as you reach the track going into the corner.

Things to note

1. Avoid over-flexing

When ridden correctly, your horse should show slight flexion away from the direction of travel. Too much flexion often leads to the shoulders leading, and often means the horse drifts rather than crossing the legs.

However, ensure you maintain the flexion, and the connection into the outside rein, into the corner. Alongside balancing him, this is what helps set your horse up to lead with the inside leg in the canter.

2. Ensure your horse’s body is straight

While the shoulders should be slightly in advance of the quarters, they should not be dramatically so. Likewise, the hindquarters should not lead.

3. Maintain the rhythm

Look to maintain the same trot you had while riding large up the three-quarter line and throughout the leg-yield.

Some horses lose their engine in leg-yield, dropping behind the bit, while others might rush forward and away from your inside leg aid.

Ultimately, the contact and rhythm should be consistent. You may need to adjust your aids to help maintain them, or remain in a rising trot to help keep to a regular rhythm.

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‘He was sometimes sleeping five times what he normally would’: the insightful AI data behind Jagerbomb’s World Cup recovery

Oscar Williams — Wed, 01 Jul 2026 11:10:24 +0000

When Becky Moody and Jagerbomb flew home from their FEI Dressage World Cup final win in Fort Worth, Texas, the celebrated gelding looked, by every outward measure, completely fine. He had a week off in the field, a fortnight of gentle hacking, and was – as she told The Horse & Hound Podcast – “bright as a button and happy”. But the data picked up something his demeanour didn’t.

How does monitoring horse sleep work?

At home, Becky works with EquiConnect, a vet-built AI stable-camera system installed in 12 stables in one of her barns. The cameras monitor sleep patterns – distinguishing between sternal lying, where a horse rests upright, and lateral lying, when they are “flat out and actually getting proper sleep” – as well as how long each horse spends eating and how active they are through the night.

Horses sleep only a few hours a day, most of it standing, thanks to the stay apparatus – a system of tendons and ligaments that lets them doze upright without tiring.

But they can only reach REM (rapid eye-movement) sleep, the deep restorative stage, when lying fully flat in lateral recumbency, because that phase involves a complete loss of muscle tone.

Vets generally cite a need for around 30-60 minutes of lying down a day to get enough REM sleep, and horses that can’t, or won’t, lie down – whether through pain, stress or an unfamiliar environment – can become REM-sleep deprived.

For Jagerbomb, that data proved illuminating. “He only ever sleeps at night – he never lies down during the day,” Becky explains. “So you can’t really know what his sleeping is like unless you’re looking at the camera information.”

And what the information showed, once he was home from the States, was a horse working hard to recover from his travels across the Atlantic.

“It took him about 16 or 17 days to get back to his normal sleeping patterns at home,” Becky says. Across that recovery period, the cameras logged him catching up dramatically: “He was sometimes sleeping five times what he would normally have slept.”

It is the kind of insight that would be invisible to even the most attentive horseperson. Jagerbomb was away for close to two weeks in total – the same long journey out reversed on the way back, with overnight stops at Liège and Dover – and the after-effects on his rest ran far longer than his outward demeanour suggested.

Why over-competing concerns Becky Moody

For Becky, the data underlines something she already felt strongly about: the hidden toll of travel and competition, and the importance of not asking too much of a horse.

“When we talk about horse welfare, this is one of the things that I think is really relevant,” she says.

Even a relatively standard trip carries a significant load. Travelling to an international show such as Rotterdam – where Becky is speaking to us from – can mean a horse spending well over eight hours on the lorry in a single day, she points out, once ferry queues and French customs (“anything between 50 minutes and three hours”) are factored in.

“I can pretty much, even without the data, know that he doesn’t sleep at a show like he sleeps at home,” she says.

Her response has been to build in a more deliberate recovery. After a major effort, Jagerbomb is given an easy couple of weeks: time in the field, or a few days off, followed by gentle hacking.

Becky’s careful to say there is no single rule. Some horses benefit from a fuller calendar, gaining confidence and learning to settle in the competition environment.

But the difference between a local outing and several days of championship-level sport is, she stresses, enormous. “You have to know your horse and what you’re doing and what is best for them,” she says.

It’s a philosophy now backed by hard data – and one she sums up simply: she is “quite a big one for not over-competing”.

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Joe Stockdale shares a simple exercise for training your horse to stay straight over a fence

Martha Terry — Wed, 01 Jul 2026 08:00:06 +0000

In this exclusive article for H&H subscribers, top British showjumper Joe Stockdale demonstrates a simple exercise with poles that he uses to teach his horses the leg aid can mean stay straight, not just go faster

Does your horse have a tendency to drift right or left over a fence? It’s a common problem, particularly with inexperienced horses that are still working out how best to use their body.

Joe Stockdale is riding Millfield Counterfeit (Cooper) for this jumping exercise. Cooper is a 12-year-old by Cooper VD Heffinck who is competing up to 1.50m classes. While Joe is demonstrating this exercise on a relatively experienced horse, he describes it as especially useful for young horses in teaching them what the leg aids mean in terms of keeping straight.

The setup consists of three canter poles 3.2m apart to an upright. On the take-off and landing side of the fence are “tramline” poles, creating a channel through which the horse must travel. He starts with the tramlines set at about two human strides apart, making it a narrower channel depending on the rideability of the horse.

Joe uses lightweight square poles for the tramlines: “If he did happen to jump left or right and step on a pole, they stay flat, it stops them rolling, so it’s a lot safer than using a round pole, particularly on the landing side, where there’s a chance they might step on it.”

Showjumping training for straightness with Joe Stockdale

How to set up the exercise. (Image credit: creditUnknown)

“This is a simple exercise, especially for a young horse, to teach them the aids to keep them straight,” says Joe. “They must take off and land without jumping to either side. Most horses tend to jump a little to one side, which doesn’t matter at this height, but once the jumps get big or wide it can be problematic.”

Joe starts with the planks at about 90cm high, popping through a few times so that the horse understands the exercise, before increasing the height. While Cooper stays straight through the set-up, he initially cuts the corner afterwards, so next time Joe asks for a couple of extra strides in a straight line before turning.

Both the canter poles and the tramlines serve a purpose in this exercise that encourages the horse to stay straight without rushing.

The role of the canter poles

“The canter poles are to help the rhythm, because I want to use the leg for support to keep the horse in the middle of the jump,” says Joe. “The poles prevent them from thinking that the leg only means go faster.

Joe approaches the fence in a good rhythm over the canter poles. (Image credit: creditUnknown)

“The poles stop them opening the stride, so they learn I’m supporting them to keep straight – not asking them to open up.”

Joe adds: “The line of poles makes it hard to fail. If it was an isolated fence, with the tramlines, when I put my leg on to support his straightness, the temptation for the horse would be just to go faster. The canter poles contain them.”

The role of the tramlines

“First I jump it with the tramlines nice and wide, making sure he’s confident, then slowly bring in the channel so he has to be really disciplined to stay straight,” Joe says.

At the start of the exercise, the tramlines are set wide on the landing side, but can gradually be brought closer together. (Image credit: Peter Nixon)

“Even though I have the tramlines to keep the horse straight visually, I’m giving instructions with my legs to back it up. The young horse will then learn what the aids mean. The answer’s there, I’m just showing him how to get there.”

Joe explains how his own position is paramount.

“I need to focus on my position, staying centred, tall and light. For straightness, the first thing that will make him go to one side is if I’m unbalanced, so my priority on the approach is to keep my body and head in the middle of the horse.”

The beauty of this exercise is in the mix of the two arrangements of poles.

“If I was to take this all away and put a load of right leg on to keep him from jumping right, that’s when he’d get quicker,” Joe explains. “But because we’ve got the canter poles and the tramlines, he’s naturally going to stay straight because he has to. On the approach to the tramline channel I’m going to give him the leg aid at the same time so he starts to associate my right leg with not jumping to the right, but staying straight instead.

“So it’s like I’m giving him the answer to the problem, and then showing the aid that I want to use.”

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(Image credit: Peter Nixon)

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Try this asymmetric in-hand exercise to build your horse’s topline and strengthen his weaker side

Martha Terry — Tue, 30 Jun 2026 07:25:20 +0000

Groundwork exercises can be highly effective for building your horse’s strength as they can develop core stability, balance and muscle tone without needing to compensate for the added weight and restriction of a rider.

All horses have a dominant side – like us being right- or left-handed – and with this exercise you can target developing the weaker side as well as building overall core strength. The use of raised and angled poles make horses lift their knees and bend the hocks, think where to place their feet, engage their core and and open their shoulders.

Aims

Develop weaker side
Engage core and get horse working through the back
Improve proprioception

The setup

You will need: a training halter, lunging cavesson, or your horse’s usual bridle

Setup: You can use as many poles as you have time to lay out, but six is a good number. Arrange them in a zig-zag as shown in the diagram, raising the points where the poles meet on to 15–20cm blocks on one side.

Because this is a walk exercise, don’t worry too much about the spacing – they can be quite close together or at right angles. It’s up to your horse to work out where to put his feet.

The poles are raised on blocks on one side. (Image credit: creditUnknown)

How to do the exercise

Before you try the polework exercise, warm your horse up by leading him on both reins for about 10min. You should do transitions from walk to halt, to check he is paying attention to you. You can also ask him to rein-back from the ground or do some basic lateral work. Your horse should be walking actively forwards and straight, as you would expect under saddle.
Approach the zig-zag directly in the centre. As you are working in-hand, you should keep yourself parallel to your horse’s head but outside the poles, rather than stepping over them as this may affect how you lead and balance your horse.
Because the spacing between the poles varies, and they are higher on one side than the other, this will encourage your horse to think about where he puts his feet, constantly adjusting his balance and stride length. Stepping over uneven, raised obstacles asks your horse to lift their core, thereby building topline.
You should do this exercise several times in each direction, bearing in mind one side is higher than the other. To work on your horse’s weaker side, do more lines where he has to lift that side higher. For example, if his weaker side is the left, have the raised side on the left.

Tips and troubleshooting

1. Alternate raised poles

This exercise is equally effective if you alternate the raised sides, so your horse has to keep adapting as they go down the line.

2. Don’t overface

If your horse has never done this exercise before, he may find the visual challenge of a line of asymmetric poles offputting. You can build up from three poles rather than going straight into six.

Likewise, don’t underestimate the impact of this polework exercise, even though you’re not riding. It requires plenty of physical and mental effort.

3. No drifting

Although you’re leading your horse and cannot use your legs and hands to keep him straight, the asymmetric layout should do the job for you as the angled poles channel the horses into a straight line. Give them plenty of freedom with the head and neck to assess the layout and use their back.

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The best way to cool horses and the science behind it

Bethany Stone — Mon, 29 Jun 2026 14:47:16 +0000

The best way to cool horses is sometimes debated in the equestrian community. Thankfully, there is a straight answer to the constant discussion between horse owners of to scrape or not to scrape – and it’s backed by science.

Heat is a major by-product of energy production and muscle function during exercise, with the amount of heat generated increasing in line with the intensity of a horse’s work. Therefore, cooling after the exertion of competition is extra important. But why?

The best way to cool horses can save lives

During exercise, a horse only uses a small proportion of stored energy to work his muscles. The rest is lost as heat through the metabolism of the stored energy. This causes heat build-up in the body, so controlling that body temperature, i.e. cooling the horse, is essential to avoid heat exhaustion.

A horse’s normal core body temperature at rest should be between 37.5°C and 38.5°C. When this rises to a dangerous level above 41°C to 42°C, you will see side effects and signs of heat exhaustion. These can range from excessively high heart and respiratory rates to dehydration, fatigue and poor recovery from exercise.

If left untreated, heat exhaustion can develop into heatstroke — a condition in which the body is unable to regulate its own temperature. This can ultimately lead to multi-organ dysfunction, including kidney and liver failure, abnormal heart rhythm, loss of coordination and, in severe cases, death.

The power of evaporation

Evaporative cooling — losing heat through the skin by sweating — is the most important way a horse controls his body temperature during and after exercise. Water from sweat evaporates into the air, taking heat energy with it.

Additionally, about 30% of heat loss occurs through the lungs and respiratory tract during normal breathing.

These methods of heat loss are at their most efficient when the difference between the skin temperature and the surrounding air temperature is greatest, such as in cool, dry weather.

Cooling by sweat evaporation is less effective in hot and humid conditions, because the surrounding air is already saturated with water. That means the difference between air and skin temperature is minimal, so evaporation is much less effective.

Sweat starts to drip from the body but removes just 5-10% of the heat that would have been lost through evaporation.

Continuous application of cold water is the best way to cool horses. Photo: Karen Coumbe (Image credit: creditUnknown)

Should you scrape a horse off after hosing?

While scraping water off a warm horse will do him no harm, it will slow the cooling process in a dangerously hot horse. Therefore, the best way to cool horses at the end of intense exercise or competition is to apply copious amounts of cold water over his whole body, without scraping it off.

But how does this work?

Research has shown that applying cold water (9°C) to a horse after exercise in hot, humid conditions helps bring core body temperature back down to normal faster than using tepid (31°C) water. Cold water has no negative effect, such as increasing the risk of tying-up.

How to explain the scraping myth? Water is a good conductor of heat, which is why cold water on a hot horse heats up – the horse is losing body heat to the water. Some owners might infer this means that the hot water is insulating the horse, but this isn’t true.

Then, the horse is cooled further as the water evaporates, because evaporation cools the surface the water is sitting on.

Along with a team of researchers, Dr David Marlin undertook extensive study in this area leading up to the 1996 Atlanta Olympic Games.

He says: “When faced with a horse that is moderately to dangerously hot after exercise or a horse that isn’t coping in hot weather even at rest, the most effective and safe way to cool is to apply water all over the body.

“Any water cooler than the horse – ideally less than 25°C – will work. The cooler the water the better and quicker the horse will cool down. The best indicator of body temperature and how effective your cooling is, is actually the horse’s breathing rate and how hot they feel to touch.

“Don’t concentrate on specific areas of the body – just apply water continuously either with buckets or a hose from the neck to the tail. Don’t scrape as this wastes time better served applying more cool or cold water and actually results in the surface warming up.”

How to keep competition horses cool

In addition to continuous cooling by applying cold water without scraping, other good ways to keep horses cool include:

keeping them in shade as much as possible
using a misting fan – you’ll find these most often at elite events
ensuring they appropriately fit – fitness and acclimatisation to local weather conditions are additional key factors in avoiding heat stress
maintaining a healthy weight and body condition score – an overweight horse will struggle more
helping with electrolytes – electrolyte supplements help to keep your horse hydrated, and a hydrated horse can cool regulate their temperature better
using ice boots to cool legs – some evidence states cold therapy has a positive effect on tissue metabolism and enzyme activity when skin temperature is reduced to 10°C or when joints are reduced to 30°C. However, ice must be applied thoughtfully and at reasonable intervals to avoid freezer burn

How to tell if a horse has heatstroke

Ambient temperature and humidity levels in the UK rarely reach those of more tropical climates. However, signs of heat exhaustion are not uncommon in horses competing here in the summer — particularly if the weather suddenly becomes hotter.

Signs of heat exhaustion include:

prolonged and delayed recovery (beyond 10 to 20 minutes after the end of the competition)
persistently elevated heart and breathing rates
continued, excessive sweating
shaking
weakness
loss of awareness of surroundings

Ongoing increases in rectal temperature after the end of exercise are a strong indicator of heat stress and the potential to develop heat stroke.

In its most severe form, this can leave a horse unable to sweat, reluctant to drink water or to walk. It can cause staggering, depression and collapse – even death.

Urgent cooling and appropriate veterinary treatment, including intravenous fluids in some cases, is vital.

Correction: 29 June, 2026

This article was first published on 25 June 2026 and it contained an error that stated Dr David Marlin had published a study showing that cold hosing the legs of leisure horses resulted in reducing the subjects’ temperatures. The study was not published by Dr Marlin and he does not endorse this as a cooling method. His position is that effective cooling involves applying cool of cold water over the horse’s entire body, without scraping the water away between applications.

For unlimited access to advice on how best to care for your horse, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

Develop your horse’s extended canter with this simple exercise on a 20m circle

Martha Terry — Mon, 29 Jun 2026 11:54:08 +0000

Extended canter is all about energy. Dressage judges want to see an increase in stride length and ground cover, not just more speed, with the horse staying straight and connected.

The same applies when jumping: you want lift, airtime and adjustability, maintaining your rhythm – not simply a faster canter that’s flat and hollow.

This very simple flatwork exercise works on boosting the quality of the steps in extended canter – not the quantity.

Aims

Increase stride length and ground cover
Develop an uphill, open frame
Maintain the rhythm while increasing the reach
Stay straight and connected, both into the extended canter and back out again

The setup

No setup required – simply the space to ride a 20m circle on the flat.

Short, repeatable efforts help develop the extended strides, rather than a long straight line where your horse may flatten and lose balance (Image credit: creditUnknown)

How to ride the exercise

Many riders try to practise their extended canter by firing off down the long side of the arena. However, it’s best taught over short, repeatable efforts where the horse can learn to make a distinction in stride length.

Warm up in walk, trot and canter on both reins, including plenty of transitions to make sure your horse is listening and responding to your aids.
Establish an active working canter and go large.
Now go on to a 20m circle in working canter, and make a transition to five or six bigger strides, before collecting back to working canter. Use your inside leg to push the shoulder up without blocking. The circle should encourage your horse to step under with the hindleg, rather than running flat on the forehand.
This short effort discourages the horses from becoming flat and running, because they’ll anticipate the re-collection. It also teaches riders to feel a few good steps as the quality is developing and not chase for more.
Each horse will vary on how much you need to push and how much to hold. By practising, you’ll find your own horse’s sweet spot.
Repeat a few times on each rein.

Tips and troubleshooting

1. Running

Keep the increases short, before collecting back. While the horse is developing the extended canter, he may only be able to manage a few good strides, then unravel, losing balance and energy. It is better to make the transition back before that happens. Prioritise quality over quantity.

2. Flattening

To extend properly, your horse needs to lift. Think shoulder-fore going into the circle, so you encourage you horse to keep his inside shoulder up, without establishing a full shoulder-in. The frame needs to be open to be able to extend, not overly flexed.

3. Too much hand

Some riders hang on to the reins to try to control the canter, so you need to work on your hands being independent. Work on giving and retaking the rein on a circle. And when you come back to a more collected canter from the increased strides, don’t just pull! Use a half-halt and soften.

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The versatile in-hand pole setup that will give your horse plenty to think about – even in walk

Martha Terry — Sun, 28 Jun 2026 07:30:42 +0000

This groundwork exercise is handy for keeping your horse engaged and stimulated in walk, because of the constant changes of direction combined with negotiating poles.

Aims

Provide mental and physical stimulation
Strengthen core and hindquarters
Focus on changes of bend while negotiating poles

The setup

Setup: Three sets of two poles set up in like chevrons, with about 4m between the points of each set.

You will need: training halter, lunging cavesson, or your horse’s usual bridle

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

How to do this in-hand exercise

Just because you’re working in hand doesn’t mean you don’t need to warm your horse up. Before you start the polework exercise, spend 5–10min in walk. Your horse should be walking actively, as you would expect if you were riding. Incorporate plenty of transitions to check your horse is focussed and working with you, not being distracted.
First, approach the chevrons on a straight line (orange line above). The poles should draw the horse into the point.
Approach the points in the opposite direction, aiming for the points. Without the poles guiding you both into the point, you need to be accurate so the horse doesn’t meander to the side.
Now you can play around with the formation. Do circles and loops making a cross-section through the chevron, varying whether you cross near the point or where the poles widen out (green line). Taking the poles on an angle like this will increase the emphasis on footwork as the horse needs to work out how to lift and put down his feet.
You can also approach the sides of the chevron at a right angle, then dogleg off to the opposite arm of the next chevron (blue line). This works on changing the bend while negotiating poles. All the time, you are asking you horse to assess, react, be supple and precise with his footwork.

Make sure you work equally on both reins.

Tips and troubleshooting

1. Layout

If you only have four poles – or are short on time – just two chevrons will also provide a great workout.

2. Accuracy

Striped poles are really useful for keeping disciplined on accuracy. If you decide to cross from, say, white stripe to white stripe, can you stick to it?

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Develop the quality and rhythm of your lengthened trot strides with this back-loosening, hindleg-engaging drill

Martha Terry — Sat, 27 Jun 2026 06:30:21 +0000

Lengthened or extended trot strides are often seen in a dressage test across the diagonal. The consequence is that many of us practise them by speeding across the longest straight in the arena, inadvertently encouraging our horses to become flat, hollow and rushed. The trot strides don’t so much lengthen as simply speed up.

Instead, we want to encourage our horse to push off the hindleg, with the strides getting longer but, crucially, not quicker. To do this successfully, the horse needs to be supple, which will produce longer steps with more airtime thanks to a looser back and more engaged hindleg.

This flatwork exercise works on suppleness alongside lengthening the steps to improve the latter.

Aims

Longer, but not faster, trot strides
Increased suppleness

The setup

No setup required. All you need is sufficient space – and an arena is ideal. If you are riding in the field, it’s helpful to lay out arena boards, poles or other markers so that you can be disciplined about where you make transitions.

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

How to ride the exercise

Warm up in all paces, incorporating plenty of upward and downward transitions to ensure your horse is responding to your aids or cues.
Establish an active working trot and go large, riding around the edge of the arena.
As you come round the short side, turn up the quarter-line in the same trot, and leg-yield to the track.
When you reach the track, ask for a few lengthened strides, thinking “bigger, but slower” to prevent rushing. The leg-yield should help loosen your horse’s back, while engaging the inside hindleg so that it can push off more for bigger, longer strides. This is particularly helpful if your horse has a choppy trot.
Before you reach the end of the next short side, collect the trot again, keeping the energy but containing the stride length.
Do this exercise the same number of times in both directions. Because it loads the inside hindleg more, you need to work both sides equally.

Tips and troubleshooting

1. Tempo control

If you do this exercise in rising trot, you can use your rising to help control the horse’s tempo. This is useful if your horse tends to go faster, not bigger, when you ask for the extension.

2. Rushing

For horses that rush or hollow, you can practise lengthening on a circle. The curve of the circle will encourage you to ride from inside leg to outside rein to engage the hindleg. You can change between rising and sitting trot to help your horse by allowing the back to swing more in the longer strides.

3. Trouble re-collecting

For horses that struggle to come back into a balanced more collected trot after lengthening, ride a 10m circle at the end of the lengthened strides. This will encourage you to keep your horse in balance so that he is ready to do a small circle, rather than allowing him to rush down the side of the arena.

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Summer horse care hacks, tips and products you need in your life to breeze through the season

Bethany Stone — Fri, 26 Jun 2026 08:39:02 +0000

Summer horse care hacks are about so much more than keeping cool. During the season, you want to make the most of the long daylight hours with time at yard and streamline your time at home. You want to keep pesky insects away (using the best fly sprays), avoid sun damage (with sun cream for you and sun cream for your horse), and it might be useful to lighten your mental load with some organisation ideas.

Without further ado, here are some of the summer horse care hacks I recommend to guarantee a smoother season. The best part? Some of the bits and pieces I’ve picked out to help you through summer also have discounts as part of Amazon Prime Day, which ends today (26 June).

Summer horse care hacks and tips you need to try

1. Flies, begone!

Don’t worry, I’m not about to tell you to use fly spray – you definitely already know that! But flies don’t just annoy horses, they annoy us too. Therefore, you also deserve insect repellent!

As well as for hacking, I used this Jungle Formula on a trip to India a while back and don’t recall getting bitten at all, so it’s decent stuff.

While you’re at it, why not pick up a magnetic fly curtain to keep winged pests out of your tack room? I have a set that I use to keep bugs out of my home – being able to keep the door open in the evening without stressing about moths and other flies is genuinely amazing.

2. Make aircon a reality

Whether for your tack room or for use at home, a portable air conditioning unit is a must when heatwaves land – and you just know the next one isn’t far away.

I bought this Delonghi compact air conditioner last year and honestly haven’t looked back. I no longer fear a heatwave and get plenty of sleep to be on my A game for my horse. My miniature schnauzer also absolutely loves it, so if you have a lorry dog who needs a cooldown, I would highly recommend.

Portable air cons are a bit of an investment, but I promise your comfort is completely worth it. Or, if you’re not quite ready to commit to several hundreds of pounds, a tower fan (like this one) will certainly tide you over.

Imagine how much easier it’ll be to pack and move all this around with a trolley. (Image credit: TI Archive)

3. No more heavy hauling

Have you seen these fold-away carts around and about? Some people load their kids into them, others will trundle a picnic to the park, but I say: these babies belong on the yard.

Pile them with haynets, take them to shows, or finally make it from the tack room or feed room to your horse in the elusive single trip with feed, hay, tack and rugs all safely ensconced within.

4. Cue the music

Long summer days are begging to be spent at the yard. Personally, I love poo-picking as a summer activity, and taking a bluetooth speaker (I have this one) can crank up the good times.

Worried about phone battery? Pack yourself a power bank (like this one) for peace of mind.

5. Get savvy with storage

Winter rugs clogging your tack room? And, at home, are you sick of the sight of your long riding coats and waterproof breeches?

Use these vacuum compaction bags to store them without taking up space. You’re welcome!

Need something to store your rugs in? Check out this massive plastic storage chest.

Once you use a hose attachment, you’ll never be satisfied with putting your finger over the hose again. (Image credit: Alamy)

6. Happy hosing

A hosepipe without an attachment is awkward to use – using your finger over the end only goes so far. Instead, try this hose attachment with loads of settings to cool your horse.

Not only that, there’s a reservoir for your pick of the best horse shampoo that will make bathing your horse easier than ever.

7. I’m a “fan” of this one…

Airflow in the stable is the thing to help keep your horse cool while he’s in. What’s more, a gentle breeze can also disrupt midge flightpaths, meaning they leave your horse alone.

You’ll want a portable fan (like this one) to help achieve this. They can be hung or stood on the floor and many have great battery life, so you don’t need to worry about having any power.

Want to cool down on the go? I just discovered this Shark Chill Pill hi-speed personal misting fan – I can see it being a hit at summer shows like the Royal International. If you want something at a cheaper price point, this personal fan is in the Prime Day sale.

8. Slip, slap, slop

Sun protection is an essential summer horse care hack, but it’s super important for humans, too. I always take suncream with me to the yard on summer days for top-ups, especially to my face.

This viral sun cream is currently in the Prime Day sale and one of my faves.

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How a straight line of poles can improve your horse’s agility and hoof-brain coordination from the ground

Martha Terry — Fri, 26 Jun 2026 07:30:51 +0000

This polework exercise can be done in-hand or ridden, but it’s best to teach it as a groundwork exercise first to give your horse the chance to learn the concept without the additional weight of a rider. The act of simply stepping over a line of poles can bring huge benefits to your horse in terms of both stimulation (mental and physical) and building strength, coordination and horse-rider harmony.

Aims

Develop your horse’s core strength
Improve foot-brain coordination
Develop horse-rider relationship and understanding

The setup

Setup: Four poles laid end to end in a line. They can be on the ground or sightly raised on small blocks or bricks. You need to have space either side, so ideally down the middle of an arena or field.

You will need: a training halter, lunging cavesson, or your horse’s usual bridle.

Keep your horse facing forward and raise the poles once he understands the exercise. (Image credit: creditUnknown)

How to do this in-hand exercise

Begin by leading your horse in-hand around the arena or field for five minutes or so, checking he is walking purposefully without pulling you around. Do transitions to and from halt to ensure he is responding.
Approach parallel to the line of poles so that they lie just to right of your horse. When you are level with the first pole and their right foreleg is about to leave the ground, ask the horse to step over the pole until all four legs are on the right side of the pole.
Walk in a straight line away.
Next, approach so that the poles lie to your horse’s left. When their left fore is leading, ask the horse to step to the left over the line of poles and walk away in a straight line.
Once the horse understands the concept, you can link up several step-overs. Starting with the poles on the right, step over the line leading with the right fore, then take an odd number of steps parallel to the pole until the left fore is leading, and ask the horse to step to the left back over the line of poles. Again walk an odd number of steps and then move sideways right.
Continue until you reach the end of the line.

Tips and troubleshooting

1. Difficulty level

This exercise is more demanding the higher the poles are raised, and the more frequently you ask the horse to step over. Start with seven steps on each side, progressing to five or then three as your horse understands.

2. Stay parallel

It can be tempting to serpentine over the poles, but the aim is to step laterally, one foot after the other. Stay parallel and don’t meander!

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Boost the length and power of your horse’s medium trot with this helpful exercise

Martha Terry — Wed, 24 Jun 2026 07:45:55 +0000

In this exercise to improve medium trot, we are using lateral work – specifically the half-pass – to improve the push in the more extended paces. Half-pass should only be attempted once your horse is established in both shoulder-in and haunches-in (travers), being able to bend around the inside leg, maintain a forward rhythm and move sideways in good balance.

The half-pass enhances a horse’s longitudinal and lateral suppleness, enabling the hindleg to step under more and therefore boosting the power and push, to encourage ground cover without your horse losing balance. It also frees up the shoulders, which gives your horse more reach in the medium trot.

Aim

Improve impulsion and engagement

Setup

No setup required: This flatwork exercise is easiest to do in an arena. If you are riding it in a field, we suggest marking out an arena to help your accuracy.

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

How to ride the exercise

Once warmed up, establish an active working trot and go large.
As you come out of the corner, ask for half-pass across the diagonal.
After six strides or so, straighten the horse and ask for some lengthened or medium trot strides.
Proceed in medium trot across X. This should improve impulsion and engagement.
After around six strides of medium trot, half-halt and position your horse in half-pass again.
Half-pass back to the track.
Repeat on both reins and from both ends of the arena.

Tips and troubleshooting

1. Failing to prepare

Without preparing your horse properly either for the half-pass or the medium trot, he will lack engagement and balance. Try a couple of steps of shoulder-in before the half-pass to engage the hindleg and establish the bend.

When it comes to the medium trot, make sure he is straight before asking him to lengthen.

2. Too much, too soon

Half-pass is a lateral movement for established horses. If your horse is twisting his head or struggling with his balance and bend, go back to basics. He should be well established in shoulder-in before you start attempting some steps of half-pass.

3. Twisting head

This can occur when the inside rein is forcing the bend, with the outside leg pushing the horse, which blocks the inside leg from coming through.

Or, the rider is asking for more sideways movement than the horse is ready for.

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Did you find this exercise useful? You may also enjoy reading…

(Image credit: Andrew Sydenham)

What is medium trot, and what are the benefits for your horse?

(Image credit: Andrew Sydenham)

Encourage your horse to lift and lengthen with the help of this zig-zag polework layout

(Image credit: Andrew Sydenham)

Improve your horse’s bend in walk with this simple polework exercise

(Image credit: Andrew Sydenham)

Boost the quality of your horse’s canter with this straightforward poles routine

(Image credit: Andrew Sydenham)

Boost your horse’s suppleness and manoeuvrability using five poles on the ground

(Image credit: Andrew Sydenham)

10 tips for travelling in hot weather with your horse – and when to stay at home

Bethany Stone — Tue, 23 Jun 2026 14:34:17 +0000

When temperatures rise, ensuring your horse stays cool, comfortable and hydrated on the move becomes a little more complicated. Here’s how to succeed

Travelling horses in hot weather isn’t impossible, but it requires thoughtful preparation to ensure equine welfare is maintained.

In the UK, professional transporters are not allowed to move horses in temperatures exceeding 30°C – and this is a good rule of thumb for private owners to follow.

Tips for travelling horses in hot weather

Here’s how to best ensure equine welfare when transporting horses in hot weather.

1. Do your homework

Try to plan your travel around the weather conditions and avoid travelling during high temperatures and high humidity. If it is unavoidable, pick the times of day when it’s likely to be coolest.

Setting off early in the morning, for example, will make the experience much more pleasant for both you and your horse.

2. Plan ahead

Before setting off, ensure horses are fully hydrated by providing them with unrestricted access to forage and water for at least six hours with plenty of space to rest and relax.

3. What to wear?

While you might usually reach for one of the best travel rugs for a journey, it’s unlikely to be needed in hot weather. Any equipment on the horse’s body may contribute to overheating, the risks are likely to outweigh the benefits on a hot day.

Also consider leg protection. Thick travel boots may cause sweating, when a lighter pair of breathable brushing boots or cross-country boots combined with over-reach boots on all four legs will offer a basic level protection for a horse who typically travels well.

4. Prepare for the worst

While it sounds pessimistic, when travelling by road you just never know when or for how long you might get held up. Therefore, make sure you have plenty of forage and water on board for top-ups to keep your horses happy and healthy, and be confident you know what to do if you find yourself stuck on the road with a horse.

5. Provide good-quality forage

Access to quality forage will help maintain a healthy digestive system and provide an ongoing source of energy, as well as creating a small reservoir of fluid in the horse’s gut to help keep them hydrated.

You could also give a small fibre feed ahead of travel for this reason.

Loading up and travelling early in the day often means you can avoid the worst of the heat. (Image credit: Alamy)

6. Boost airflow

Opening the rear section of a trailer helps draw hot air out while fresh air is pulled in through the windows. But avoid travelling with the front door above the ramp open as there is a risk of flying debris being blow into your horse’s face.

If you have a roof vent, open this at the back, as it also draws warm air up and out of the transport while you are driving. You can also use clip-on portable fans to help keep air circulating.

7. Stick to frequent watering intervals

In normal conditions, horses should be offered water at least every four and a half hours while travelling. In hot weather, that interval should be shorter.

This is at your discretion, but use what you know. How hot and dry is it? Has your horse eaten and drunk well in the hours before setting off? Is he sweaty? Is he overweight? All these factors will help you decide how frequently to stop and offer water.

8. Make water tempting

Anyone who has offered their horse a drink in an unfamiliar place will know that horses can be choosy about the type of container they will drink from and the taste of the water. However, it’s important to stress that this doesn’t mean they’re not thirsty.

If possible, try and take water from home in a large capacity container (like this one) and provide it in a bucket they are used to drinking from.

Additionally, it’s always beneficial to familiarise them to different containers in case you can’t take your own. You can also try flavouring the water with apple juice.

9. Minimise stress

Horses can become dehydrated more quickly when they are stressed or unsettled so try to minimise this wherever possible.

Loading and unloading are two of the main stressors for horses when travelling so make sure you do as much as you can to keep the process calm and relaxed.

Practising often without the pressure of heading to a show or event will help it become second nature.

When you are on a schedule, leave plenty of time to load to avoid time pressure.

Ensure the vehicle is well ventilated and drive carefully to make the journey as comfortable as possible.

10. Prepare for the arrival

As with pre-planning before a journey, it’s just as important to give plentiful forage and water upon arrival at your destination. If you’re travelling to a show or event then make sure your horse has time to relax, graze, eat hay and drink before competing or beginning exercise. You could also feed a rehydration mash.

Risks of travelling horses in hot weather

Dehydration is the greatest risk and can affect any horse.

Signs of dehydration include:

fatigue
weakness
dullness
loss of performance
decreased appetite
abnormal drinking, such as taking longer than usual draughts or gulping
infrequent urination
dark urine
red or congested mucus membranes

Recommended ways to prevent or correct dehydration include:

making clean, fresh water available at all times
offering additional water sources with an electrolyte supplement
administering electrolytes around two hours before travel
feeding haylage, which has a higher moisture content than hay, or using soaked hay if appropriate
standing your horse in the shade as much as possible
offering water after exercise and packing a rehydration mash to administer if necessary

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Improve your horse’s lateral work from the ground with this single-pole exercise

Martha Terry — Tue, 23 Jun 2026 13:29:55 +0000

Teaching sidepass and other lateral work from the ground encourages your horse to “think” with his feet, as well as listening and reacting to what you are asking of them. It can take a while initially for the penny to drop for some horses learning this lateral sidepass pole exercise, but it’s great for creating engagement and learning how to move the hind and front end.

The pole provides a visual and tactile boundary, which is a tool in this exercise. All you are asking the horse to do is move sideways along a pole which separates the hind and front end. However, it is quite a demanding exercise mentally, requiring your horse to understand your cues to move laterally and not to step forwards over the pole with the hindlegs.

Before you attempt this groundwork exercise, your horse needs to understand how to move his front end and his back end from your cues on the ground. These are simple movements that you would do, for example, when you open and close a gate.

Aims

Develop lateral coordination, suppleness and precise footwork
Engage the core as the horse learns cross their legs over in balance
Improve your horse’s overall manoeuvrability and responsiveness

The setup

You will need:

A pole on the ground – ideally a heavy one that doesn’t roll easily when kicked or stepped on
training halter, lunging cavesson, or your horse’s usual bridle
Lunge line, long rope or reins
Schooling whip (or you can spin the end of your line or reins as the cue)

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

Once your horse is comfortable standing over a pole, ask him to move sideways along the pole, keeping his hind and front legs on either side

How to do the sidepass pole exercise

First lead your horse towards the pole, asking him to halt when just his front legs are over it, and the pole is dividing his front and hindlegs. It may take some adjustment and steps of rein-back for him to understand where you want him to position himself.
Make sure that your horse is comfortable standing squarely with the pole dividing his front and hind end. This may take time initially, especially if he is used to walking over poles rather than stopping halfway.
In the middle of the pole, stand facing your horse and slightly to his left side, and ask your horse to move to the right, away from you.
Your left hand should steer the horse sideways to his right, containing any forward movement so that he does not walk over the pole with the hindlegs.
To move the hind end laterally, either spin or shake the loose end of lead rope in your right hand, or point to the horse’s ribcage with your schooling whip to ask him to move right.
The moment your horse makes a step or two sideways, release the pressure and praise. Over time he will understand to move laterally along the whole pole, crossing his legs over as he goes.
To start with, just try going from the middle of the pole to the edge, and eventually you’ll be able to side pass along the whole pole.
Repeat in the other direction.

Tips and troubleshooting

1. Patience

Break this exercise down into small steps, so you do not overface your horse – it takes time. In one session, you may only get as far as standing quietly over the pole.

2. Confidence and competence

To start with, your horse may move the front end and hind end separately, but as they grow in confidence and understanding, they will step sideways with both fronts and hinds simultaneously.

3. When to step away

If your horse starts to get frustrated with the exercise, which can feel claustrophobic as he gets used to the pole in between his legs, break it up with some forward trotwork.

4. Ridden work

You can also do this exercise ridden, and having already taught your horse from the ground, it should be much easier to achieve.

5. Progress

You can develop this exercise by adding further poles, for instance into an L shape or a zigzag so the horse they have to negotiate corners, requiring a little turn on the forehand or haunches to move onto the next pole.

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Under-25 national champion Alice Casburn recalls the rocky start of her home-bred superstar

Martha Terry — Mon, 22 Jun 2026 15:30:11 +0000

Topspin is a second-generation home-bred who fulfilled a grandmother’s dreams, most recently carrying Alice Casburn to take the under-25 national championship at Bramham.

Alice was six years old when Topspin arrived in the world, a giant fourth foal from his 15.3hh mother Capriati. He still lives in the stable where he was born.

“Mum’s room had a TV where we could watch the foaling,” Alice says. “I wasn’t that interested in horses then, but foals were exciting.”

Although Alice describes Spin as her mother Caroline’s “favourite child”, he lived up to his name from the outset.

“He was so sharp, I was forever falling off,” says Caroline. “Friends were always catching him and picking me up. But from the start, he felt like he could jump anything.”

Caroline produced Spin mainly for showjumping, handing over the reins to Alice to event – and credits her “short body and long legs” for enabling her to sit his spins.

“He can be vile,” Alice says, lovingly. “But I understand him; some of it is naughtiness, some is insecurity. I just laugh at him now – I’d either laugh or cry.”

From this rocky start, he’s fulfilled the family’s dreams.

“My granny helped Mum with the breeding and used to joke that Spin and I would get to Burghley one day – when he wasn’t even managing at novice.”

What canny foresight. Topspin and Alice not only made it to Burghley, but have finished in the top 10 in all of their four runs.

Alice and Topspin have multiple five-star completions on their record. (Image credit: Nico Morgan)

Topspin breeding information

Name: Topspin

Stable name: Spin

Height: 17hh

Year of birth: 2008

Breeding: by Zento (16.3½hh) out of Capriati xx (15.3hh) by El Conquistador xx

Breeder: Caroline Casburn

Best results: fifth twice at Burghley CCI5*, fifth at Luhmühlen CCI5*, 2026 under-25 national champion at Bramham, young rider European team gold and individual bronze

Topspin’s pedigree chart (Image credit: creditUnknown)

Meet the parents

Caroline laughs that her premise for breeding Topspin was not entirely rational. She’d evented his grandmother, Spangle, at advanced. But out of five foals, she produced only one filly, Capriati.

“Capriati wasn’t the best to breed from in hindsight; sharp with an ever-ready battery,” says Caroline. “We bred from her to keep the line, but also as she was so hot-headed we didn’t like riding her!”

Stallion AI recommended Zento, for his quiet temperament: “Although Spin’s sharp, he’s workable,” Caroline says. “If you can stay on, you can bring him back to walk and explain things to him. You’d ride Capriati for three hours and never wear her out.”

Other facts about Topspin’s breeding

1. Topsin’s great-grandsire (grandsire of Capriati) was Derby winner Mill Reef.

2. His sire’s half-brother Cento won Olympic team showjumping gold in 2000.

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How to keep horses cool in a heatwave with helpful tips for instant results

Bethany Stone — Mon, 22 Jun 2026 12:39:08 +0000

We’re expecting “How to keep horses cool in summer” will be a popular Google search this week. Here in the UK we experienced record temperatures of more than 30ºC in May and some areas are predicted to reach 40ºC this week. How many of you had that on your 2026 bingo card?

A heatwave that early in the year was unusual, and this week will be even more uncomfortable – and dangerous. Therefore, owners need to think about how to keep a horse cool right now, and we’ve got you covered. Here are Horse & Hound’s top tips on for keeping horses cool when things get really hot.

How to keep horses cool when temperatures soar

The number one piece of advice for working horses in hot weather is to exercise them as early in the morning as possible. While the evening could be an option, check your weather app in advance. It can still be well above 25ºC at 9pm in a heatwave, which might not be suitable for you or your horse.

Safe stabling

1. If your horse is normally stabled at night and out during the day, consider reversing his turnout times to avoid the hottest temperatures and the worst of the flies – especially if he has limited shade or shelter in the field.

Before deciding, check his stable isn’t actually more uncomfortable in the heat than his paddock. If there’s poor ventilation and no through breeze, his stable could be very stuffy. Setting up a portable fan out of reach of your horse may help to increase airflow and have a cooling effect.

2. If there is no permanent shelter or tree cover in your horse’s paddock, but you’d like him to stay out, you could use some sheeting to rig up a safe, temporary area of shade so he has the option.

Turnout tips

3. A light coloured fly rug or summer sheet works better than a dark coloured one for keeping the horse cool, because white is best for reflecting the sun’s heat.

A rug that has a loose weave material lets the horse’s body heat and sweat out more than a tight weave, but as a compromise provides less effective protection from the smallest flies and midges.

A wet rug has hugely increased cooling properties, so hosing the rug down while it is on your horse multiple times a day is worthwhile in the hottest temperatures.

4. Bringing your horse in for a cool hose off and turning him back out without scraping off the water will give him respite from the heat. If you can do it more than once, so much the better.

5. Pink skin and white areas on the face and heels are most commonly affected by sunburn because they have less skin pigment and hair coverage, so remember to apply one of the best suncreams for horses to these areas.

A fly mask with UV protective properties may also be helpful. Plus, those with a built-in nose net offer extra protection for pink noses.

Hot horses will appeciate having the option to seek shade or shelter. Photo: Alamy (Image credit: creditUnknown)

How to keep horses cool while travelling

6. If you have to transport your horse in the hot weather, leave as early as possible. This avoids travelling in the worst heat and reduces the risk of getting stuck in traffic. Professional transporters in the UK are not allowed to move horses in temperatures exceeding 30°C – and this is a good rule of thumb for private owners to follow.

7. If you transport your horse, ensure all suitable windows are open to keep fresh air flowing through the horsebox. You can also use portable fans to help keep your horse cool.

If you have a roof vent, opening only the rear section while you are moving helps to draw the hot air out of the vehicle while cool air can enter through the windows. On arrival, the roof vent should be opened fully.

However, your horse might not be cooler standing on the lorry or trailer, even if he is out of the direct sun – think of dogs in hot cars. Consider whether he would be better off outside in the shade.

How to cool down a horse quickly

8. If you suspect that your horse may be suffering from heat stroke, put him in the shade and cool him continuously with free-flowing cool water.

The best way to do this is with a hosepipe, but if the hose has been sitting in the sun, make sure you run it first to remove any water that was left in the pipe. This water can be extremely hot and cause scalding so take care when you check it so you don’t get burnt either.

If you don’t have a hose, use a watering can or pour buckets over your horse instead. You will likely have to refill the vessels and repeat several times.

Another key is to allow the water to run off or evaporate without scraping off the excess liquid. The belief that leaving water on a horse will “cook” him is an equestrian urban myth – it simply isn’t true. The best way to cool a horse down quickly is to allow the water to draw heat away from the horse’s skin by evaporation.

You should also offer the horse water to drink every few minutes. If the horse appears wobbly (ataxic) then try to keep them walking in the shade, while continuing to apply cold water. If signs persist, contact your vet as a matter of urgency.

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Want to transition your horse to barefoot? A farrier, hoof boot maker and barefoot specialist shares his helpful practical tips

Bethany Stone — Mon, 22 Jun 2026 11:06:40 +0000

Farrier Tom Broadbridge has overseen the care of numerous barefoot horses – here’s what he has learned

Considering transitioning your horse to barefoot, but not sure how to go about it? Spend any amount of time on social media and you’ll soon find that barefoot trimming and everything surrounding it is a hot topic.

“To my mind, enabling the horse to go barefoot is the gold standard,” says Tom Broadbridge, who qualified as a farrier in 2003 and is now purely a barefoot hoofcare professional.

“There are times when a horse can’t immediately go completely barefoot. Sometimes horses that look sound with shoes on may not be free from inflammation. Consequently, their unsoundness may be more obvious when the shoes are removed.

“If a horse is not sound, they may need another form of hoof protection after removing the shoes, such as hoof boots. In such cases, immediately going completely barefoot may not be best.”

Tom advises against making the transition alone.

“Firstly, ensure you’ve built a strong team of equine professionals around you. Communication with them is key.

“Speak to your vet and your hoof care professional for their advice rather than plunging straight into taking the shoes off.”

Why transition a horse to barefoot?

Keeping horses naturally is a significant motivator in the transition from shod to barefoot. There are several other reasons owners make the change too, including:

1. Cost

With the cost-of-living crisis applying increasing financial pressures – and leaving some owners unable to make ends meet – the thought of ditching a large six-weekly bill appeals to many. However, Tom advises proceeding with caution.

“If finances are your only motivation, I’d advise you to think again,” he says. “Barefoot is not necessarily the easy or cheap option. Keeping a barefoot horse requires a holistic approach, and you may find mounting costs with equine professionals in other areas of your horse’s management to address soundness without shoes, as they may mask lameness.”

2. Performance

“A horse often gains a more natural movement without the restriction of steel shoes,” explains Tom. “Watch the horses in the dressage arena that are barefoot.”

3. Retirement or semi-retirement

Many owners reassess their horses’ lifestyle when they reduce or remove their ridden routine. As well as removing shoes, many opt for 24/7 turnout or retirement livery, too.

4. Eliminates shoe pulling

If you have a horse that regularly pulls shoes, this leads to frequent call-outs mid-shoeing cycle and risks damage to the hoof.

5. A last resort

“I specialised in remedial farriery years ago and thought it was the key to everything,” explains Tom. “Then, you’d have cases where you’d throw every specialised shoe and technique you knew to fix a lame horse, but nothing would work.

“One client sent their horse to a barefoot rehab yard, and the horse came sound. It was one of the most exciting moments of my career. In fact, it was the beginning of my transition to barefoot.”

You may need something sharper than a hoof pick to remove debris from the white line. Photo: Alamy (Image credit: creditUnknown)

How to transition a horse to barefoot

Consulting your hoofcare professional alongside your vet and an independent nutritionist is the best way to set your horse up for a successful barefoot life.

That said, there’s much you can do in the months ahead to ease the transition.

Feeding

Ideally consulting with an independent nutritionist, Tom recommends reviewing and reducing the amount of sugar in your horse’s diet, from bucket to haynet.

“Sugar is a focus point because it is so influential in terms of inflammation,” says Tom. “But an independent nutritionist can help you review the micronutrients your horse is receiving for overall health and ensure they are optimally fed, too.”

Workload

“If I decided to take off my trainers and immediately go for a 20-mile walk, my feet would be in a sorry state,” says Tom. “It can be the same with newly-barefoot horses.”

While some individuals adapt quickly to work on hard or stony surfaces, others need time to adjust. Tom advises looking over your horse’s workload, scaling back for a period, then building up to your usual routine.

“Groundwork can be a great place to start,” adds Tom.

“If you’ve ever walked on uneven tarmac with no shoes, you’ll know how unpleasant it can feel and the effect on your gait.

“Now carry a saddle and a person. You’ve made an uncomfortable task even more difficult.”

All at once?

If a horse is shod all round, some owners choose to remove the back shoes first.

“The front feet carry about two-thirds of a horse’s weight,” says Tom. “Some owners like to remove the hind shoes first to allow the horse to adjust how he loads and potentially ease the transition.”

However, others may argue that there is a height differential between the shod and barefoot hooves, and that can cause unintended issues.

How to support a horse while transitioning to barefoot

Tom says it’s perfectly normal for newly barefoot horses to feel sensitive on stony ground.

“Anyone who was used to wearing shoes would be,” he says.

“However, if a barefoot horse appears lame on any surface, it is a cause for concern and action needs to be taken.”

Always gain advice from a qualified equine professional.

If you regularly walk your horse on a hard, uneven track – for example, to reach his paddock – hoof boots are a useful tool.

Tom, who designs and produces his own range of hoof boots, says it helps avoid the cumulative effect of contact with sub-optimal ground.

“Newly barefoot horses who walk on stones might develop slight bruising.

“This might be pretty inconsequential as a one-off, but if it’s a daily thing you get bruising forming on top of bruising, and that can become very sore. What’s more, it can cause inflammation and affect the rest of the body due to compensatory issues.

“Using hoof boots for any activity on surfaces, such as stony tracks, can reduce issues, especially in those early stages, by protecting your horse’s soles.

“Gradually introducing different surfaces when the horse is completely barefoot allows them to adjust, and improves hoof health over time.”

Hoof boots like these Pioneer ones help horses transition to barefoot and support hooves through work. Photo: Tom Broadbridge (Image credit: creditUnknown)

Choosing and fitting hoof boots

You can find many different hoof boot styles on the market, including Tom’s own design, Pioneer Sports hoof boots, which are a self-adjusting style to accommodate natural movement and a growing hoof throughout the trim cycle.

Each company has its own fitting and measurement guidelines.

Tom recommends consulting your hoofcare professional on a style and fit to suit your horse when seeking hoof boot advice.

“Some companies, like The Hoof Boutique, will give you advice based on images and measurements you send them or provide a fit kit.”

Dealing with hoof cracks

When transitioning a horse from shod to barefoot, hoof wall cracks or wall degradation are common.

“If your horse has been shod for quite some time, you’ll have a series of nail holes,” Tom explains.

“Here, the horn is weak and will break away.”

Always seek advice from the hoof care professional. Many riders reach for hoof conditioners and moisturisers, but Tom advises it is bacterial or fungal infection within the hoof wall, not dryness, that causes low-level cracking.

“Use an anti-bacterial and anti-fungal product on the hoof horn from about a centimetre below the coronary band,” he suggests. “This permeates the horn and tackles the infection.

“New growth is imbued with the treatment and the cracking should stop. You can actually smell the product when you trim the hoof.”

He adds that the white line can stretch due to flaring, meaning small stones and other debris become lodged within.

“You need a tool sharper and thinner than a hoof pick, such as a bradle, to gently clear it,” advises Tom.

“I’d then use a packing material [like this one] to preserve the white line.”

A toothbrush or a hoof pick brush like this one is ideal for applying an anti-bacterial treatment. Photo: Alamy (Image credit: creditUnknown)

What’s the best time of year to transition a horse to barefoot?

For Tom, there are pros and cons to a summer versus a winter transition.

“If you transition in the winter, the ground is generally softer, but so are the feet,” he says. “So, the sole is more vulnerable to bruising and potentially more sensitive to stony underfooting.

“In the summer, the feet are generally harder and the sole less flexible, but also the ground is also harder and possibly more uncomfortable underfoot.”

The time of year you choose to transition will depend on what you already know about your horse’s feet. Ultimately, Tom recommends avoiding spring and autumn when the grass flushes and its sugar content intensifies.

“At these points in the year there’s a real boost of energy and sugar in the grass,” Tom explains. “This causes an instant response in the body that might lead to inflammation. It doesn’t need to be as severe as acute laminitis – even a small amount of inflammation in the body can make horses more sensitive.

“My horse has been barefoot for nine years. When the weather changes and the grass shoots up, he’ll feel the odd stone here and there where he wouldn’t have a couple of weeks before.

“And he’s not transitioning – he’s well into barefoot life.”

Ultimately, success will come from strategising ahead of removing your horse’s shoes.

“Start planning your transition while your horse is still shod,” says Tom. “Making dietary adjustments in advance, for example, can help minimise soreness, maintain hoof wall integrity and altogether make the transition far smoother.”

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Develop your horse’s straightness in canter with the help of this shallow loops exercise

Martha Terry — Sun, 21 Jun 2026 07:39:25 +0000

We know straightness is a crucial element of how our horse goes, and one of the scales of training. Canter, being asymmetrical, is the hardest gait to achieve straightness, with many horses falling out at the shoulder and swinging the quarters in.

This flatwork exercise uses shallow loops to straighten the canter, improving engagement and encouraging your horse to accept the outside aids. Straightness still applies when the horse is bending. The horse is straight if their hindlegs are following their front legs travelling on the same two tracks in self-carriage.

Quarters-in is a common fault at lower levels. As the outside hindleg strikes off (and starts each canter stride sequence), it carries the most weight. Horses may try to compensate for this by swinging the quarters in so this weight-bearing leg doesn’t have to step under so far.

Aims

Straighten the canter
Teach your horse to accept the outside aids
Achieve self-carriage

The setup

No setup required: This exercise is easiest to do in a school to help you be disciplined about the size of loop. If you do it in a field, we suggest you mark out an area to work in.

If your horse struggles to maintain canter on the correct lead on the wider loops, start with a shallower one (Image credit: creditUnknown)

How to ride this exercise

Once warmed up in walk, trot and canter on both reins, go large in a balanced working canter.
At the first quarter marker on each side of the area, ride a 10m shallow loop. The bend of the horse’s head and neck should follow the direction of travel.
Repeat, progressively decreasing the size of loops to 8m, 5m, 2m and 1m.
Finally, ride the same exercise with barely noticeable loops of 20cm – with the aim that your horse is completely straight.
Repeat on both reins.

Tips and troubleshooting

1. Your horse goes disunited or hollows

Just come back to trot, try to relax, and then try again starting with shallower loops.

2. You lose the quality of canter

Some horses rush as they anticipate cantering across the diagonal. Perform a half-halt in the corner before starting the loop to keep him on the aids.

3. An unintentional flying change

Maintain the existing canter lead (the lead you started the loop on) with your true inside leg and the outside leg slightly behind the girth. While the horse’s body should bend around the loop, their nose should be slightly pointing toward the leading leg to prevent the horse from interpreting the turn as a cue for a flying change.

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Find the key to your horse’s suppleness and core strength with this maze exercise in walk

Martha Terry — Fri, 19 Jun 2026 11:30:37 +0000

This S-bend or maze exercise is designed to be done in walk. However, you can choose either to ride it or do it in hand – both have benefits. As your horse navigates their way through the maze of poles, it’s a mentally stimulating challenge to encourage suppleness, build core strength and balance, while teaching your horse to take care where he puts his feet.

I personally love this polework exercise and find it to be really beneficial. Plus, walk is a very effective pace for polework because there is no moment of suspension, which means your horse has to use muscular effort, thereby building core strength.

Aims

Improve proprioception
Boost balance and core strength
Provide mental stimulation

The setup

Setup: six poles arranged in a maze or S shape

You will need: if working in-hand, a training halter, lunging cavesson, or your horse’s usual bridle. Otherwise, your usual tack.

How to ride the maze exercise

Whether you are riding or working in-hand, warm up the horse for 10 minutes or so, including transitions and circles. Check he is responsive to your aids, listening and ready to work.
Let’s say you want to ride the exercise. Approach the entry to the maze (blue line) in a nice active walk.
The corners will be tight. Open your inside hand to encourage your horse to bend through his body in the direction of travel. Control the shoulder from falling out with the outside rein. Apply pressure with the inside leg, to encourage him to step under and cross over with his hindlegs, like you would in turn on the forehand. The outside leg behind the girth should be in contact with their side to stop the quarters swinging out.
To do this exercise in-hand, you will need to use your body positioning, line and stick to encourage your horse to bend and step under.
You can also use this layout to walk and trot over the poles as shown in the diagram by the orange and yellow lines.

Tips and troubleshooting

1. Start simple

Start with wide channels (around 1.5m) when introducing this layout. You can reduce them to about 1m when the horse is proficient at this exercise.

You can also start with a basic L or U shape rather than the full maze while the horse works out the challenge.

2. Rushing

Horses can feel trapped by the narrow boundaries and rush, or try to go over the poles rather than chicane around them. If this happens, widen the channels. You can also walk the horse around the layout first so they can inspect it.

3. Steering problems

Your horse may be confused by the layout and what you want him to do in the tight space, or lack lateral suppleness. Take it slowly, using clear aids whether you are doing the exercise ridden or in-hand

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Considering artificial insemination for your mare? Here’s what you need to know first…

Bethany Stone — Thu, 18 Jun 2026 14:45:35 +0000

Artificial insemination in horses is a technically demanding but routine part of modern equine veterinary practice. It is a modern breeding technique that can be incredibly complex and requires accuracy and strict biosecurity, plus good timing and organisation to be successful. In the UK, it sits firmly within the professional responsibilities outlined by the Royal College of Veterinary Surgeons (RCVS).

If you’re planning to use artificial insemination (AI) for your mare this breeding season, how can you maximise the chances of a successful equine pregnancy? We outline the most important points to consider when using artificial insemination in horses and explain what’s involved in the process.

How is artificial insemination done in horses?

Routinely, the process is as follows…

1. Semen collection

This begins with appropriate preparation of the stallion and the environment. In well-managed studs, stallions are trained to mount a phantom (dummy) mare rather than a live mare. This significantly reduces risk to both animals and handlers. An artificial vagina (AV) is carefully prepared to replicate physiological conditions – specifically temperature, pressure, and lubrication – so that ejaculation occurs in a controlled and humane manner.

The veterinary surgeon, or suitably trained personnel under direction, must handle the stallion in a way that minimises stress and risk of injury. Hygiene is critical: the AV must be sterile or single-use lined. In addition, collection vessels must be clean and pre-warmed. Obvious contaminants, such as dirt or urine, must be avoided.

Poor technique here can compromise semen quality and ultimately fertility outcomes.

2. Semen evaluation and handling

Once collected, semen is assessed promptly and properly. This directly informs clinical decisions about whether the ejaculate is suitable for use and how it should be processed.

Evaluation typically includes motility (movement), concentration, and morphology (assessing size and shape). This is all carried out under controlled temperature conditions to avoid cold shock. Accuracy in terms of process and record-keeping is essential.

3. Extension and preparation

To preserve sperm viability and produce multiple doses, semen is diluted with an appropriate extender following evaluation. Extenders are designed to buffer pH, provide energy substrates, and reduce bacterial growth.

Controlled temperature conditions are essential to dilution. Abrupt changes can irreversibly damage sperm membranes. Again, traceability and documentation are important, particularly where transporting semen between premises.

4. Storage and transport

If semen is not used immediately, it may be cooled for short-term storage or frozen for long-term preservation.

5. Insemination and post-breeding care

Your vet will manually insert the semen at the optimum time using a pipette. The mare is typically scanned via ultrasound 24–48 hours post-insemination to ensure ovulation has occurred and to check for any fluid buildup in the uterus. A second ultrasound scan is performed 14–16 days after breeding to confirm conception.

There are various benefits of AI being carried out at a dedicated breeding centre. (Image credit: Peter Nixon)

Can AI be carried out at home?

AI can be carried out at home, at an equine clinic or at a specialist breeding centre. So what might influence your choice?

“Studies show that pregnancy rates improve with minimised potential stress,” says equine vet and breeding expert Emma Cooper MRCVS. “Certain horses may be more relaxed at home, but you will ideally need stocks for ultrasound scanning and insemination.”

Insemination with frozen semen is particularly difficult to carry out at home, yet fresh and chilled also need a vet’s input.

“An AI package at a stud or clinic could well prove cheaper, as driving and visit fees often add up to more,” says Emma. “The benefit of a clinic is that the vet can examine a mare as often as necessary without the owner having to be there.

“Every mare is different, but an experienced repro vet with knowledge of AI will be able to see more detail in the uterus and follicle to tell exactly where she is in her cycle. Better care will most likely bring a better result – and fewer scans could lower costs.”

Vets recommend turning your mare out with another who has a similarly-aged foal. Photo: Alamy (Image credit: creditUnknown)

Pros and cons of artificial insemination in horses

It sounds so simple – and often it is – yet AI can disappoint the unwary. Take a look below at its pros and cons in summary:

Advantages

Reduced risk of injury to mare and stallion
Access to geographically distant or elite stallions
Allows use of chilled or frozen semen (genetic flexibility)
Better disease control (no direct contact)
Precise timing with ovulation → often good conception rates

Disadvantages

Requires veterinary expertise and monitoring (costly)
Variable fertility with frozen semen
Not permitted in some studbooks (e.g. Weatherbys/The Jockey Club for thoroughbreds)
Handling/storage logistics for semen

How much does AI cost?

Artificial insemination in horses can incur rapidly mounting costs, which you will need to add to the other costs of breeding a horse.

Pre-breeding assessment

Vets recommend a thorough pre-breeding check, which should include a complete gynaecological assessment, including ultrasound and appropriate tests for infections that can affect fertility (such as a blood test for equine viral arteritis and a swab for contagious equine metritis) as well as a general health check, including a worm egg count.

The mare’s vaccinations should also be up to date.

This is likely to cost between £215–300, including VAT, and is vitally important.

Cost of insemination

Costs for insemination can vary hugely depending on what clinical costs include. However, in addition to the cost of semen, you should be budgeting:

Chilled semen package = at least £525, including two pregnancy scans (including VAT)
Frozen semen package = at least £625, including two pregnancy scans (including VAT)

There are many potential additional costs, such as sedation, treatment for infection or infertility, such as uterine lavages and other additional treatments.

In other cases, the mares will be straightforward, and the costs may be less.

Be wary of additional charges

“Make sure you know the costs up front,” says Emma. “Ask if stud or clinic prices include extras such as livery, drugs and pregnancy scans, and whether you’ll pay the same the second time around if your mare does not conceive on the first cycle.

“Most AIs are fine, but complications can occur. Not all mares cycle every 21 days. Others produce excessive uterine fluid so that when the embryo enters the uterus it cannot survive.

“There’s also a reasonably high rate of twinning with some mares. The uterus is typically not large enough to sustain both embryos. While there’s a high success rate if one is ‘squeezed’ within the appropriate time, this does involve a risk to the other one.

“We don’t always know of potential problems until we start looking.”

Consider that a healthy foal, or that the foal will mature into a quality horse, is not a given. As such, careful consideration is essential from the outset.

What is the success rate of artificial insemination in horses?

Conformation, temperament, size, soundness and freedom from hereditary conditions – all these will influence your choice of stallion. But will your chosen stallion’s semen get your mare in foal?

You also want to obtain a fertility record from the stud manager. That said, relevant fertility data can be hard to obtain, warns Fred Barrelet, a Newmarket reproduction vet.

“The key measure of a stallion’s fertility is his per-cycle conception rate, but many stud owners don’t publish this,” he says. “The number of mares he gets into foal tells you nothing about the time taken. What you need to know is the breeding efficiency achieved with his semen.

“Ask the stallion owner, stud or semen vendor for the number of mares that become pregnant per cycle. A lot depends on management and the individual mare, but you need to hear an answer of about 50%.”

Semen quality/handling, timing and the standard of clinical management also affect success, although no single variable determines outcome. Rather, the pregnancy rate reflects how well these elements align.

Mare selection

Younger mares generally have higher conception rates. With advancing age, there is a higher incidence of degenerative changes within the uterus. Such changes mean that after breeding, fluid and inflammatory debris do not clear as well, resulting in an increased chance of persistent uterine infections.

This is one of the most common causes of subfertility.

In addition, the cervix of older mares may not relax as effectively during oestrus, which can hinder both semen deposition and uterine clearance.

Egg quality also declines with age, so even when fertilisation occurs, early embryonic loss is more likely. So clinically, this means older mares often require more intensive management.

Semen types: what are your options?

A good semen sample will contain billions of sperm, but which type is best for your mare?

Fresh: straight from the stallion (who must be on-site or nearby), fresh semen offers the highest fertility rates and lasts longest once inseminated. Its lifespan is usually three hours from collection, but this varies between stallions.
Chilled: next best fertility-wise. Chilled semen is mixed with extenders, preservatives and antibiotics to lengthen its lifespan to up to 30 hours. This enables insemination at home and widens stallion choice to further afield in the UK, or even Europe. Timing is still an issue: it must be ready at the premises prior to your mare ovulating.
Frozen: fertility rates associated with frozen semen have improved with the use of extenders and veterinary management. It can be stored ready for use and opens up a worldwide pool of stallions. However, it requires considerable veterinary input, and can push up costs (insemination must take place within six hours prior to, and four hours after ovulation). Sperm from certain stallions has better post-thaw motility – swimming ability – than others.

Semen choice will largely depend upon your mare’s age and breeding health. Fresh or chilled will maximise an older mare’s chances of conceiving – provided it arrives on time, prior to ovulation.

Mares are assessed using ultrasound throughout the process. (Image credit: Jon Stroud Media)

Getting the timing right

During the horse breeding season, a mare ovulates (releases an egg) every 18-24 days – a process called cycling. Each egg forms inside the ovary in a structure known as a follicle.

“A mare is in season – or oestrus – for four to seven days, although this can vary from two to 12 days,” says Emma. “She is then out of season (in dioestrus), for 14-15 days.”

Timing and logistics therefore play a crucial role in successful AI.

“The stud team must work within a relatively narrow biological window as to when the mare is going to ovulate working with perishable materials,” adds Emma.

“It can be harder than one might think to predict ovulation and select the best time to inseminate a mare. Each mare is individual and reproductive cycles will vary. Therefore, veterinary teams must monitor her frequently and diligently monitoring using ultrasound, particularly when breeding from older mares.”

Vets can manipulate the point of ovulation to enable insemination of semen at the optimum moment, according to its type.

“During a season, follicle growth goes hand-in-hand with an increase in the oedema [fluid] within the mare’s uterus,” explains Emma. “When the follicle reaches a key size of 35mm we can use either one of two ovulation-inducing drugs, Chorulon and Ovuplant.

“The mare should then ovulate within 24-48 hours, which gives us a window to order and inseminate semen prior to ovulation. Follicle size may be smaller, though, particularly in ponies, so it helps to know a mare’s breeding history.”

Health is key

According to the British Equestrian Veterinary Association (BEVA), due to the serious concern of the spread of infectious diseases, it is best practice to only accept semen from a stallion for AI tested for contagious equine metritis (CEM), equine viral arteritis (EVA) and equine infectious anaemia (EIA) after 1 January 2026.

Generally, vets request that this certification arrive with the semen at delivery, otherwise they will be unable to proceed with insemination. This is already mandatory for all EU/foreign stallions – it is illegal to use semen from an unknown source or imported from abroad without the required health documentation.

It is wise to request this certification for UK stallions as well.

How do I prepare my mare for artificial insemination?

Good general health is essential for a mum-to-be, so keep your mare’s vaccination and worming programmes up to date and her hooves and teeth well maintained.

But how else can you prepare her for AI?

“We’d rather see a mare too light than too heavy, so aim for fair condition,” says Edward Matson of Twemlows Stud Farm and AI/ET (embryo transfer) centre. “Like females of all species, horses are more likely to conceive on a rising plane of nutrition.”

If you’re sending your mare to a stud or clinic for AI, pre-entry health requirements could include checks for CEM, EVA, EIA and strangles.

Edward points out that pre-breeding examinations are not always definitive in predicting a mare’s chances of conceiving.

“It is difficult to assess a maiden [first-time] mare’s reproductive health before she comes into season,” he says. “A specialised equine repro vet might suggest endometrial swabs or more complex biopsies with a potential problem mare.

“Around 80% of problems occur once the semen is inserted in the uterus, however. You can’t tell too much till then.

“If your mare has foaled previously, give the vet as much information as you can about her breeding history. This should include her own breeding information, the type of semen used and the cycle she conceived on – or why she didn’t. This can save a lot of time and money.

“Be realistic with an older maiden mare. She may be super-fertile or she may not, but you won’t know until you try.”

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Why do horses wear sunglasses?

Georgia Guerin — Thu, 18 Jun 2026 09:05:13 +0000

The first time you see a horse wearing sunglasses you will probably do a double take. They’re certainly not commonplace, but we’re seeing them in use more frequently and they’re not just a quirky fashion statement.

Horses wear sunglasses (often called equine goggles or visors) for a variety of reasons that are all centred around protecting their eyes. The most common reasons include:

managing conditions, such as equine recurrent uveitis, headshaking or photosensitivity
UV protection
glare reduction, improving a horse’s vision in bright conditions
extra protection during recovery from injury or surgery
high-risk sports, to prevent injuries from flying dirt kickback or balls, for example

Just like humans, horses benefit from the protection sunglasses, goggles and visors offer from harmful UV rays and sun glare. Horses with little or no pigment in the skin around their eyes are particularly vulnerable and can suffer from sunburn, squinting, watery eyes, sunburn, cataracts, and even cancer.

Horses can wear googles or visors for a variety of reasons. (Image credit: Alamy)

When can a horse wear sunglasses?

Unlike fly masks, equine sunglasses, googles or visors of any kind should only be worn when ridden or supervised. This is because of the potential for them to move or get caught if a horse rubs their face.

Visors are not permitted to be worn in competition by many governing bodies (including British Dressage, British Eventing and British Showjumping), so it’s recommended that you check individual rulebooks first. They are permitted in some cases by the British Horse Racing Authority, but must be declared in advance.

Horses may wear visors for snow polo due to the glare from the snow. (Image credit: Alamy)

Googles, visors and sunglasses are, however, also marketed for use in the following sports and areas of equestrianism across the world:

hacking or trail riding
barrel racing
eventing or cross-country
showjumping
endurance
racing
polo, including snow polo
mounted shooting protection
skijoring

Tinted lenses reduce the amount of light able to get through, just like human sunglasses. (Image credit: Getty Images)

Types of sunglasses for horses

Some visors – those with transparent lenses – only serve to protect a horse’s eyes from trauma, which could be caused by flying dirt or other objects.

Goggles or sunglasses with tinted lenses offer varying levels of light blocking, although this is not the same as UV protection. Horse sunglasses are also assigned filter categories (just like human sunglasses) depending on the strength of the filter, ranging from zero to four, with category four being the darkest.

Below are one model’s (the eQuick eVysor) visible light transmission percentages for their available tinted lenses, along with the filter categories for context.

Transparent: 98.08%, category 0
Mirrored orange: 46.28%, category 1
Mirrored blue: 42.64%, category 2
Mirrored green: 38.41%, category 2
Mirrored rainbow: 19.85%, category 2
Darker: 10.45%, category 3

Visors typically fit over the ears and secure under the jaw. Some have elasticated straps to make them easier to put on and take off.

Police horses may wear specialist visors in riot or public order situations. (Image credit: Alamy)

Visors for police horses

While Horse & Hound has previously reported on a police horse who wore sunglasses for medical reasons, some situations require mounted police horses to wear specialist visors that protect the eyes and nose from objects thrown in a public order or riot situation. These are category zero glasses designed purely for trauma protection rather than light reduction.

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Boost your horse’s balance, symmetry and core strength with this simple in-hand polework pattern

Martha Terry — Tue, 16 Jun 2026 08:16:39 +0000

This simple groundwork exercise might not look demanding, performed at a walk on a loose rein, but it works your horse’s back, strengthens the hindquarters and core, and improves their proprioception as the negotiate poles of different heights and angles.

Aims

Provide mental and physical stimulation
Strengthen core and hindquarters
Focus on footwork

The setup

Setup: four poles set up in a cross shape, with the outer ends raised on blocks

You will need: a training halter, lunging cavesson, or your horse’s usual bridle

Raise the outer ends of each pole to improve proprioception (Image credit: creditUnknown)

How to do this in-hand exercise

Warm up your horse first in straight lines in walk by leading him around the arena or field for around 10min, checking that he is active and obedient to your aids. Do frequent transitions from walk to halt to ensure your communication and your horse’s responses are working well. You can also do some rein-back in-hand.
This polework exercise has two patterns – one a circle and the other in straight lines.
For the circle, stand toward the middle of the circle and ask the horse to circle around you, stepping over the poles. You can touch your horse behind the girth to encourage him to bend around you. (You will need to be in one quarter, and step over the poles as you turn). The bigger the circle, the higher your horse will need to lift his feet to clear the raised poles.
Give your horse plenty of rein or rope so that he can lower his head and use his back. The uneven heights require him to look down, assess, and improve hoof-brain coordination.
For the straight lines, simply lead your horse into the middle of the cross so that he has to take a big step over the X.
You can add variants, such as small circles over each pole, or making serpentine shapes.
Perform these exercises equally on both reins to promote symmetrical muscle development.

Tip

Circle sizes

Asking the horse to circle around the edge of the poles requires less bend, but for the horse to lift and engage his core more as he’s travelling over the raised ends. If you bring the circle in closer to you, it will require more bend and suppleness. Either size brings benefits.

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Improve the quality of your horse’s paces using just three poles

Martha Terry — Mon, 15 Jun 2026 07:52:18 +0000

While a horse’s paces are largely down to natural talent, there’s plenty you can work on to improve their quality, scope and cadence. Paces will typically improve as your horse strengthens and you can use poles on the ground to help them develop.

This polework exercise uses just three poles, but by putting them on a fan, you can vary the line and therefore the adjustability of your horse. This works on the ability to collect, lift and lengthen, while staying in a rhythm to negotiation the poles.

Aims

Improve your horse’s paces
Encourage a forward, balanced rhythm
Stop your horse falling in round the corner

The setup

Setup: place three poles in a fan anywhere in the arena, as long as you can ride a straight line towards the fan and away at a right angle. Ideally you will use matching poles so that you can visually ensure you stay on the same curved line.

To ride the exercise in trot, set the poles at around 1.25–1.50m apart (approx 4.5 to 5 toe-to-heel steps for most adults)at the centre point, making a wedge shape.

To ride the exercise in canter, set the poles at around 3–3.5m apart (approx three adult walk steps) at the centre point.

Ponies will need shorter distances (or to take a tighter inside line).

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

How to do this exercise

Once warmed up, pick up an active trot and ride over the fan crossing the centre of the poles making a smooth curve around the corner.
Keep the rhythm and ride over the inner line, again with a smooth (albeit tighter) curve. This is to shorten the stride and encourage your horse to use his hocks.
Then try the outer line, encouraging your horse to take a longer step, while keeping the rhythm. He cannot simply go faster, as the poles will guide his stride length.
The inner and outer lines enable you to practise lengthening and shortening the stride, using the poles as an aid to help the horse to stay engaged as he has to lift his shoulder and use his hocks.
Once your horse is working well over the fan in trot on both reins, widen the distance between the fanned poles for canter.
Repeat the exercise in canter, working on inner and outer lines and always maintaining a smooth curve.
If your horse is confident with this exercise, you can then raise the middle pole into a small fence.

Tips and troubleshooting

1. Falling in or escaping through the shoulder

Make sure you are following the line through the poles, looking forward around the bend and keeping the contact from inside leg to outside hand. Identically marked poles can help you stay on the same curved line throughout the fan.

2. Shorten and lengthen

This is a great exercise to help your horse’s medium or extended trot. Ride the fan on the inner line to encourage a correct collected trot, giving your horse more lift. Then take that energy and put it into a medium trot across the diagonal or down the long side.

3. Simplify the setup

If you have six poles, you can set up two fans – one at trot and the other at canter distance so that you don’t have to get off and reset the poles.

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How to start riding bridleless by establishing the ultimate connection with your horse

Eleanor Jones — Sun, 14 Jun 2026 09:14:53 +0000

You may be keen to know how to start riding bridleless if you’ve been inspired by recent events.

Much of the interest generated recently is a result of the first British Bridleless Competition. Mia Rodley of The Heart of Horsemanship, who organised the show on 31 May 2026, has long said that any horse and any rider can go bridleless – but not straight away.

Her number one top tip on how to get started in bridleless riding is:

Leave the bridle on.

Steps to riding bridleless

“The bridleless riding is the pinnacle, it’s almost showing off!” Mia says. “It’s showing that you’ve got that connection with your horse.”

So if you want to start riding bridleless, as is the case with anything to do with horses, there’s a lot of work involved to get to that point, but it’s something you can start on straight away.

Relaxation

“First and foremost, you have to have relaxation,” Mia says. “Your horse has to be calm, and able to stand still, on the buckle, without having to halt them. You’d be amazed how many people can’t just stop and chill on a long rein – that’s the first step.”

Once you have relaxation at halt, you need it in all paces; you must be able to walk, trot and canter, on the buckle, at all times and in all situations.

“Can you do it on a hack?” Mia says. “Can you do it in a warm-up at a competition? Is your horse really calm enough to not have to pick up your reins? That’s the first game and challenge a rider can give themselves; if I want to ride bridleless everywhere, or in a competition, can I do it in a competition environment with my bridle on?

“The game is ‘Don’t touch my reins’, or count, how many times do you need to pick up the reins in a ride. That’s another really good exercise, because any time you touch your reins, if you were bridleless, that could be a dangerous situation.”

Connection

Once relaxation to this level has been achieved, the next step is connection. The phrase Mia uses is “calm, confident and connected”; the horse must be calm and confident in his environment, and have the connection with his rider.

“My favourite way to read connection with a horse is their ears,” Mia says. “Can you sit on your horse and cause the left ear to flip back on to you without touching the reins? It’s gauging the level of connection you have with your horse’s mind; can he think back to you or is he looking into the distance at the sheep?”

If so, the test is, can you then keep this while successfully asking for the basic yields; a turn on the forehand and haunches, backing up?

“You have to be able to go forwards, backwards, left and right where you want, without touching your reins,” Mia says. “Then again, in walk, then trot, then canter.

“Count how many times you have to touch your reins while doing this as that’ll give you a really good gauge of whether you’re ready to go bridleless.”

Bridleless riding is the “pinnacle” – there’s a lot to master before you get to that stage. (Image credit: Evelyn Young Photos Legend Photography)

Emergency brakes

“Your horse has to be able to stop, from a canter, if things get emotional,” Mia said. “Unfortunately a whistle stop and a treat isn’t going to cut it in that moment; verbal signals will not work in an emergency. If the horse has bolted, you have to be able to push the turn to slow them down.”

Mia carries a stick, used to inform rather than ever to punish; she has explained before that using the stick to “push the air” by the horse gives him the information to turn, or when needed in an emergency, to stop.

“You’ve got to make sure your horse is ok with the stick,” she says. “A lot of horses have trauma around sticks but once they’re trusting and confident with the tools, you can use them for communication. It’s like a one-rein stop, but rather than pulling on the inside rein, you’re pushing the outside. You can pair that with a whistle, and really reinforce the behaviour to interrupt a bolt or spook, but it’s got to be so solid.

“You need to practise and rehearse your emergency stop a lot – and that’s all before you take the bridle off. Because although this is more natural for horses, most haven’t been trained in it; it’s a new form of communication with the rider and they have to learn it too.”

The relationship

But what if the relaxation, the first step to master if you want to start riding bridleless, isn’t there? This is how it becomes clear that bridleless riding is the means rather than the end; without building the relationship, it is not possible.

“Relaxation first, in all gaits, all environments, on the buckle first and foremost, and that’s massive,” Mia says. “It takes a long time just to get to that level with any horse, whether it’s a warmblood or a cob. That’s where most of us do a lot of groundwork already, a lot of personal development. We’re really looking to improve our own awareness of our horses.

“That’s where liberty work comes in so much for me with bridleless riding, because really it’s the same thing, you just take it under saddle.”

How long does it take to go bridleless?

The main thing to remember if you want to start riding bridleless is that this will take time; no one should just “give it a go” without the foundations.

“I was doing a step by step, how to ride bridleless, at a demo and someone said ‘What happens if your horse won’t stand still?’ and I said ‘Then you’ve got a lot of work to do before you take your bridle off’,” Mia said. “If you can’t just stand on a long rein and let go, you’re not going to be able to do anything else; the horse is not relaxed if they can’t just stand.”

Safety

Safety is of paramount importance. At the British Bridleless Competition, all who competed had to apply, by sending in videos of themselves riding bridleless, including evidence of the ability to perform three different emergency stops, and the class they wanted to enter. All warmed up in some sort of bridle, watched by Mia, while horsemanship expert and relationship judge Lyla Cansfield had the final say on whether each combination was allowed to compete.

“And obviously when horses are learning, it’s really important they’re in a secure space as well,” Mia says. “You have to have checked out every scenario and situation and rehearsed it with your bridle on before you take the bridle off.”

Benefits of bridleless riding

Many people, including dressage judge Mary-anne Horn, have commented on how relaxed and tension-free the horses at the British Bridleless Competition looked – but again, this is a result of the process rather than the bridleless riding itself.

“It’s because we’ve put so much emphasis on the connection first,” Mia says. “Serena Kullich is such a good example; her horses all go so beautifully and that’s because of the work she’s done to get them riding bridleless.”

Not having reins to rely on also means the rider has to use their seat and legs more effectively.

“A great quote is, ‘You exaggerate to teach, but you refine as you go’,” Mia says. “When you’re not using your reins, you might have to exaggerate your body language a bit more to get a turn or a stop – and that’s really good for the human to do as well, as it’s the conscious competence to get what you’re asking, and then it becomes second nature.”

Equipment

The neck rope is important but this is not about neck-reining; it sits at the base of the neck, which has plenty of musculature to protect key structures and minimal nerve endings, and it should never go more than halfway up the neck.

Neck ropes will not be needed for those who are looking to start riding bridleless, but for when you get to that stage, they should be made at least partly of leather so if, in an extreme situation, your horse gets its head down or stands on it or it catches anything, it will break.

Bridleless training

There are many ways to get help to start riding bridleless. Mia gives lessons and clinics, and there is plenty of information on how to work towards it in her online academy for subscribers.

Lyla Cansfield and Tracey Duncan are among the other trainers recommended.

Bridleless competition opportunities

A series of British Bridleless Competitions is planned; there will be at least one more this year, although the date and venue are yet to be confirmed, and the plan is also to include bridleless competition at next year’s British Liberty Show at Hartpury. Follow the British Bridleless Competition social media for updates.

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Execute smarter square halts with the help of four poles

Tania grantham — Sun, 14 Jun 2026 07:29:43 +0000

A correct halt is not achieved by simply closing the rein, it is the result of preparation, engagement and control in the preceding strides – and this polework exercise will help you get one step closer to riding a perfect square halt.

The halt is a key movement at every level of dressage. Whether it appears at the end of the final centre line, at X on the first centre line, or any other location during the test, it offers the judge a clear opportunity to assess balance, straightness and obedience. This exercise to improve your square halt will help develop all of these skills.

Aims

Help the rider create an active balanced trot
Help with accurate placement of the halt
Create a square halt

The setup

You need: four poles

Setup: place two parallel poles either side of the centre line at X, spaced approximately one trot step apart (around four to five heel-to-toe steps), with two additional poles placed before and after them to frame the exercise.

The horizontal poles should be one trot step apart to create a narrow channel. (Image credit: creditUnknown)

How to ride this exercise to improve square halt

1. Before introducing halt transitions, it is essential to establish an active, balanced trot. Ride over the pair of trot poles on the E-B line. They will encourage the horse to step more actively underneath with the hind legs, promoting engagement and rhythm.

2. Start by practising trot–halt–trot transitions on the track. The long side provides a natural guide for straightness, which means you can focus on the quality of the transition without worrying about line. At this stage, the higher scales of training (impulsion, straightness and eventually collection) become increasingly important.

As you prepare for the halt, maintain an active trot with a closed leg and steady contact. Use your seat and core to ask for the transition, thinking of the horse stepping into the halt rather than stopping abruptly. A good halt should feel balanced and attentive, with the horse ready to move off again without resistance.

3. Ride the trot-halt-trot transitions on the centre line within the pole layout. As the horse steps over the pole into the halt, the hind legs naturally engage more deeply beneath the body, often resulting in a straighter, squarer halt. Moving off again over the following pole encourages an active, forward transition back into trot while maintaining alignment.

Ensure your hips remain level when riding a halt. (Image credit: creditUnknown)

Pitfalls to avoid

1. Halt not straight

When preparing the halt ensure your hips stay square and level, a horse wanting to be crooked will often push one of the rider’s hips forward or upwards. For example, if your horse is halting with their haunches to the right, they will have pushed the riders right hip up or forwards.

2. Knocking pole on the way in

This often means your halt is not square. Make sure the trot is active without being quick. While the upper leg helps maintain the straightness of the trot, the lower leg encourages activity. Your horse should feel short and bouncy as opposed to slow and flat.

3. Overshooting the layout

This is often due to lack of preparation, or the preparation being too late. If you overshoot by a stride, next time try starting the preparation a stride earlier. Half-halts should be clear and quick, followed by a release. If you hold for too long the horse will likely lean on the rein and be slow in their reaction.

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‘He had the X factor’: Boston Black Tie’s breeder tells the story of how the champion came to be

Bethan Simons — Sat, 13 Jun 2026 07:41:42 +0000

Boston Black Tie (DJ) is the result of a careful breeding plan.

“It took me a long time to breed a hack,” says Stephen Howard. “I point-to-pointed his great-grandmother, Lovely Grange, and didn’t want to sell her. She had four foals, one of which – Boston Bellissima – I kept. In turn, she had DJ’s mother, Boston Boudicca.”

Stephen was instantly impressed by the newborn DJ.

“He had something – an X-factor or swag – that made you think he was special, though not necessarily a hack right away. They all develop differently.”

A young Boston Black Tie with dam Boston Boudicca. (Image credit: Stephen Howard)

Stephen’s friend Nicki Faulconbridge first saw DJ as a two-year-old and a year later, Stephen granted her her wish to purchase him.

“He’s never been to Nicki’s, though,” says Stephen, who remains a key DJ team member and fan. “He went straight to his producer Helen Baker and he’s lived there ever since; he’s a bit precious and they know exactly how to handle that.

“He’s very intelligent and quick to learn – as many of Kilvington Scoundrel’s progeny are. That can be to a hack’s detriment as they think they know best. But he’s right up there as a hack for me and has done far more than we could ever expect really. He keeps coming back out and we’re ultra-grateful for that.”

He adds with a wry smile, “I’ll not be letting go of his sister Boston Bed Of Roses.”

Boston Black Tie breeding information

Stable name: DJ

Height: 153cm

Year of birth: 2017

Breeding: by Kilvington Scoundrel out of Boston Boudicca

Breeder: Stephen Howard

Best results: Hickstead Derby Meeting hack champion on both his visits, and two-time Royal International hack champion.

Boston Black Tie’s pedigree chart (Image credit: creditUnknown)

Meet the parents

“DJ was his mother Boston Boudicca’s first foal,” says Stephen.

His sire, Kilvington Scoundrel is a decorated stock-getter of HOYS champions.

“Scoundrel is so prolific at breeding that quality type. At the time, if you were thinking of breeding a hack, you’d have to try him. He’d gone by that point, but there was semen available so it was worth a try.”

Kilvington Scoundrel’s semen is no longer available but, luckily, Stephen has a full yearling sister – Boston Bed Of Roses – waiting in the wings.

Other fact’s about Boston Black Tie’s breeding

1. The Boston prefix has been associated with Welsh ponies since 1968. Stephen inherited the stud, which is based five miles outside the village of Boston Spa, West Yorkshire, in 1996.

2. Boston Black Tie’s pedigree includes Dolphin Supreme and Yealand Nemesis, who have been responsible for numerous show pony and hack champions.

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How to ride free walk for higher dressage marks – with advice from FEI judge Stephen Clarke and Carl Hester

Oscar Williams — Fri, 12 Jun 2026 16:30:34 +0000

In this guide for H&H subscribers, FEI judge Stephen Clarke and four-time Olympic medallist Carl Hester explain why the walk is so often where dressage tests are won or lost – and what riders can do to improve their marks

Back when I was training, I can’t remember ever spending much time on how to ride the free walk on a long rein. It was one of those movements where you get to the test, throw the reins forward, mumble a quick prayer that no one slams a car boot or drops a coffee, and hope for the best. Sometimes, on a trickier horse, it was a brief pause to think about how I’d disgraced myself in the previous movements, casting apologetic glances at the judges.

And I don’t think I was alone. Even at the top levels of dressage, you see horses scoring eights and nines for their trot and canter, then plummeting down to sixes for the walk.

But it doesn’t have to be that way. The walk is the pace that reveals more about a horse’s training than almost any other. It’s the first to go if there’s tension in the back, and in most tests it carries a coefficient – meaning a low score hurts more than other movements.

Get it right, and you score handsomely. Get it wrong, and there’s nowhere to hide.

Why the walk matters more than you think

The walk isn’t just one movement in a dressage test – it runs through the whole horse’s training picture. As FEI judge Stephen Clarke puts it: “The extended walk is the tell-tale movement, because you see whether the horse is truly relaxed and supple, obedient and confident.”

A correct walk shows a regular, four-beat rhythm with the hindleg stepping clearly under the body – the foundation that every other gait builds on. (Image credit: Andrew Sydenham)

He’s particularly emphatic about how revealing the free walk is: “It is a good safeguard – it makes sure that riders and trainers always look after that freedom of movement. As the horse reaches the higher levels, there is such an emphasis on collection that, sometimes, freedom is lost.”

In other words, free walk isn’t a break from the real training – it’s the test of whether the training is honest or not.

How to ride free walk: what the judge wants to see

In the free walk on a long rein, the judge is looking for:

A horse seeking the contact forward and down, with the rider allowing the rein
Long, free, purposeful strides – not slow, lazy ones
A regular, four-beat rhythm with clear overtrack
A relaxed, supple back, with the horse lengthening the frame naturally
Light contact maintained throughout – the rein lengthens, but doesn’t disappear
A smooth, balanced return to a medium walk before the next movement

As Stephen explains, the score reflects “the regularity of the four footfalls, as well as all of the qualities described in brackets within each of the collective marks: rhythm, suppleness, contact and co-operation.”

Where free walk goes wrong

Most riders, when they reach the diagonal for free walk, do one of two things: they drop the contact entirely and lose all influence on the horse, or they hold on and never let the horse genuinely stretch down.

Neither approach produces what the judge wants to see.

Stephen sees the pattern repeatedly: “Often it is the extension and collection which cause the problem. Riders sometimes fall into the trap of restricting the horse with the reins to collect, which constrains the neck and stiffens the back, thereby limiting the steps. This will have a damaging effect on the regularity of the four beats. At worst, this ends up as almost a two-beat movement, where the horse moves his limbs in lateral pairs.”

A lateral walk – where the legs on the same side move together rather than in true four-time beat – is one of the most damaging faults a dressage horse can develop. And once it appears, it’s a sign that something in the training has gone wrong.

Stretch without losing the contact

The technical heart of free walk is allowing the horse to lower and lengthen the neck while maintaining a light, elastic contact through the rein. The reins lengthen – they aren’t dropped.

Carl Hester puts it simply: “The use of the head and neck is so important in walk. It should be like a rowing motion. The horse has to take your hand forward and not fiddle and get behind the vertical.”

That “rowing motion” is a useful image to hold onto. The horse is actively seeking the bit forward and down, and the rider is allowing that movement without losing the connection. If the horse curls behind the vertical, the stretch isn’t honest. If the rider holds the rein too short, the stretch can’t happen at all. If the rider drops the reins, the contact is lost.

Slower is usually better

A common mistake – particularly in tests – is for riders to push the walk forward, driving with the seat in the hope of looking impressive. “When you walk, make it a slow walk,” Carl says. “The quicker it goes, the smaller the overtrack.”

The mathematics of the walk are a little counter-intuitive. A horse that hurries will shorten his stride; a horse that takes his time will lengthen it.

Carl adds: “If we have a one-hoof overtrack, the horse needs time on the floor – he doesn’t need to come off fast. A one-and-a-half overtrack is better. And if the front legs move too quickly for the hindlegs to keep up, the horse has to learn to use his shoulder. Then we will get closer to two hooves overtrack.”

How to practise the free walk at home

We all know this, really, but the free walk shouldn’t only be ridden during dressage tests. Stephen emphasises that the walk needs work every time you’re in that pace: “Whenever you give the horse a period of rest between movements, be aware of what’s going on underneath you. You should feel the rhythm and swing in the back – and should be influencing the walk, always.”

Try incorporating these three practical exercises into your schooling to help improve your walk:

1. Improving overtrack with leg-yield in walk

A shallow angle of leg-yield on a circle or straight line can encourage a longer stride. Feel down the inside rein for a slight bend and ask the horse to move away from your inside leg. The pace becomes more relaxed, and the overtrack will improve.

A shallow leg-yield on a circle can help improve overtrack by encouraging the horse to step further across the body with the inside hindleg. (Image credit: Andrew Sydenham)

2. Riding the free walk as it appears in your test

Sit centrally with loose hips and soft hands. Slowly let your arms move forward while maintaining a slight inside bend. Push the walk forward gently with alternate legs until your horse is reaching for the bit. The reins lengthen progressively, not all at once.

3. Practising the transition back

Some horses predict the upward transition and jog. Make a series of halt transitions in walk during training, then remind your horse in the test with a half-halt. Keep a soft leg contact to reassure him, and gather the reins carefully – keeping a slight inside bend through the transition.

4. Get eyes on the ground

The walk is one of the hardest movements to accurately feel what’s going on underneath you. The footfalls are slower, the overtrack can be deceptive, and tension in the back is easy to miss when you’re focused on the contact. A second pair of eyes can confirm whether the rhythm is genuinely four-beat, whether the overtrack matches what you think it is, and whether the horse is honestly swinging through the back.

If you don’t have a coach available, video yourself again and again – ideally from the side – and check that your sense of what’s happening below you matches what’s actually showing up on the ground.

When the walk goes bad

Although we often consider the walk a natural pace, a poor walk often isn’t the horse’s fault.

Stephen is direct: “A bad walk is usually created because a rider has a disturbing influence on the horse – either a backward influence on the reins or a poor riding position. If the rider is stiff, then the horse will be stiff.”

The walk is the gait where rider faults show up first. A tight seat, busy hands, or a fixed contact will all interfere with the natural rhythm. Even small habits – pulling on the reins when the horse curls, pushing too hard with the seat – can disrupt the four-beat pattern.

Stephen’s solution is patience: “It is important not to try to collect the horse too early. Collection develops naturally. Wait for the horse. It is the gymnastic training which makes the horse strong enough to collect within all the paces.”

Common mistakes and fixes

1. Your horse jogs into the free walk

Fix: Use small half-halts before the diagonal to settle the horse, then allow the rein gradually rather than all at once.

2. Your horse drops the contact entirely

Fix: Maintain feel through your fingers. The rein lengthens, but the connection doesn’t disappear.

3. Your horse curls inwards

Fix: Encourage him forward to the bit, not down. Think “out” rather than “down”.

4. The walk becomes lateral

Fix: Slow the walk down. Resist the temptation to push for more overtrack with speed. Allow the horse to find the rhythm naturally.

5. The return to medium walk is abrupt

Fix: Gather the reins progressively as you approach the next marker. Don’t snatch them up at the end of the diagonal.

Marching on

The most important thing, Stephen says, is to remember that the walk reflects everything else in the training: “Honest training is the only way to preserve the walk. The work is done before the walk happens – it is all about whether the horse is truly in front of the leg, in real balance and self-carriage.”

Carl agrees that the answer is more straightforward than riders often make it: practise correct walk at home, ride forward without rushing, and trust the horse to march resolutely.

Or, as Stephen puts it: “Just let it happen”.

Enjoyed reading this? For more expert training advice from top riders and coaches, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

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Add structure and intent to your hacks with this simple transition exercise

Martha Terry — Thu, 11 Jun 2026 12:47:03 +0000

It’s all too easy when out hacking to do long stretches in one pace. By mixing it up and incorporating transitions, this will ensure your horse is listening to your aids and engaged, and improve your flatwork while you’re at it.

If you’re hacking out in company, you can still do this flatwork exercise. Count strides together and make it fun!

Aims

Improve your accuracy in making upward and downward transitions
Be disciplined about making the transition at the intended moment, rather than drifting into the new pace
Ensure your horse is listening to you in a distracting environment, and that your aids are clear

The setup

No setup required. You can do this in an arena, field or out hacking.

This is an example structure – you can vary the striding and paces to include canter and halt, according to what you want to practise. The important thing is to stick to what you’ve set out to do. (Image credit: creditUnknown)

How to ride the exercise

Decide on a sequence of transitions that you will stick to. For example, trot 20 strides, walk 10 strides, trot 20 strides, walk 10 strides. You can also include canter and halt.
Be disciplined about when the transition happens, rather than drifting into walk or trotting two strides after you intended. Prepare early, using one or more half-halts, so that your horse is ready, then execute the transition at the designated point.
If you’ve nailed the straightforward transitions, work on transitions within the gait, for example lengthened strides, free walk to medium walk, collected trot to working, or skipping a gait, like halt to trot or walk to canter and back again.

You may find your horse is more easily distracted out hacking than he would be schooling in the arena, so this is a great way to keep him listening.

Tips and troubleshooting

1. Lack of response into trot

Your horse does not have enough impulsion. Transitions are an excellent remedy for helping the horse be sharper off the leg, so try doing more frequent transitions. Also use transitions within the gait to build responsiveness and engagement.

2. Falling into walk

This reveals a lack of engagement, and could also mean the rider is leaning forward or collapsing through their core into the downward transition. Wrap your leg around your horse’s belly, close your thighs, sit up tall and maintain a consistent contact to keep the quarters engaged as he steps forward into walk.

3. Horse hollows

Your horse may hollow its back and lift his head as you make a downward transition. This can occur when the rider blocks with the reins. Soften your hand slightly during the transition, without losing the contact completely, to allow the horse to lift its back and step under.

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Expert advice for feeding horses with or prone to laminitis – what owners need to know

Bethany Stone — Wed, 10 Jun 2026 13:00:15 +0000

Feeding horses with or prone to laminitis requires you to reconsider their whole diet, whether they’re retired or at the peak of their competitive career.

Laminitis is a common, painful condition which manifests itself in one or more of the horse’s hooves. It is a multifactorial condition, which means it can be caused by a number of factors, but it frequently arises as the result of a metabolic upset.

While laminitis is often seen in native ponies during periods of peek grass growth, overweight horses of any type can be at risk – and suffer from the condition – at any time of year. Horses with underlying issues, such as Cushing’s disease or Equine Metabolic Syndrome, are also at greater risk.

“The modern equine lifestyle of cosy stables, rugs and over-full haynets is often where the problem of laminitis stems from,” says Kate Hore, head nutritionist at NAF.

“The largest part of any diet should be forage and grazing. When that is rich spring grass, it can be a real risk for the laminitis-prone.

“We should be feeding as naturally as possible, which means feeding a high-fibre, high-forage diet with little to no starchy cereals, such as may be found in concentrates.”

So, how to approach feeding horses with laminitis, or those at risk? Read on for advice from nutrition experts. It’s important to note, however, that laminitis is a veterinary emergency – if you suspect your horse has it, please call your vet before doing anything else.

Feeding horses with laminitis – in the bucket

If a horse has been diagnosed with laminitis, then take individual advice from your vet, but generally speaking, they should be fed little and often in line with good equine feeding practice.

Fibre should form the bulk of their diet alongside essential vitamins and minerals, while sugar and starch levels should be kept low. Because hay, haylage and grass are naturally deficient in some nutrients, forage alone is not sufficient to deliver a fully balanced diet, so a top-up of essential vitamins, minerals and trace elements is required.

Pelleted forage balancers are an ideal bucket feed for laminitis-prone horses. Balancers work to ensure horses receive their recommended daily intakes (RDA) across the full spectrum of their diet. Some of these feeds are formulated specifically for horses prone to laminitis.

While they provide key vitamins, minerals and quality protein to suit the horse’s lifestyle and workload, they also keep calorie, starch and sugar intakes low. However, they must be fed according to the manufacturer’s recommendations to be effective.

“Ensure you maintain a good vitamin, mineral and quality protein intake. This supports muscle, hoof health, coat condition and internal nutrient reserves and healthy fibre levels to support gut function,” says Emma Short, equine nutritionist at Baileys Horse Feeds.

“For horses that need additional calories for weight gain, high-calorie fibre sources can be added along with the balancer. These might include unmolassed alfalfa chaffs with added oil, or soaked beet products. High oil supplements are also available,” she adds.

If a balancer is not the right option for your horse, you can also feed a supplement specifically for horses on restricted grazing, which will ensure they get the nutrients they need.

Feeding forage to a laminitic

Forage should make up the bulk of any horse’s diet, because it’s essential for healthy gut function. What’s more, it’s a horse’s chief source of energy (calories).

With this in mind, it’s important to consider how much hay to feed a horse. Most nutritionists say horses should ideally eat forage on an ad-lib basis.

However, this method delivers too many calories to some horses. Therefore, most nutritionists agree horses should eat between 2–2.5% of their bodyweight in dry matter forage (i.e. weight of hay less its moisture content) to maintain condition, or 1.5–1.8% for weight loss.

Another approach to feeding hay is to ensure your horse never has to fast for more than four hours. Consequently, you may need to look at ways to increase his chew time by making his ration last longer. You can do this using forage blocks, small-holed haynets and slow feeders.

Soaking hay will help to reduce the sugar content and calorie intake, while clean mature (stalky) hay is preferable to fresh green hay.

Feeding good quality oat or barley straw as part of a horse’s forage consumption is also an option. Because it’s low in calories yet high in fibre, it helps extend chew time without oversupplying energy.

Always ensure the straw is a nice yellow colour and free from mould. As with hay, there should be no airborne spore clouds emerging when you pull it apart.

Ponies prone to laminitis often require restricted access to grass – perhaps none at all. Photo: Alamy (Image credit: creditUnknown)

Is hay or haylage better for laminitics?

The right type of forage for feeding horses with laminitis is low in WSCs (water-soluble carbohydrates, which include sugar and fructans), starch and calories.

Forages vary widely, and these factors could be true of either hay or haylage. It’s also true that some hay types deliver more calories than haylage.

Therefore, it’s best to consider what to put in a laminitic horse’s haynet in terms of its content. You can ask the manufacturer for advice, or send samples of your forage off for analysis. Bear in mind, you would need to do this regularly and comprehensively, which is an additional cost.

If you feed hay, a late-cut crop is the most suitable. Late-cut hay is typically a stalkier, more mature plant that is less nutritious than early-cut hay, which is soft and leafy.

However, you can further reduce your hay’s WSC and calorie content by soaking it. The degree of nutrient reduction required determines how long to soak hay.

Soaking hay also reduces its fibre and dry matter content. This means you can safely feed a greater quantity to a laminitic horse, so they can chew for longer.

Grazing horses prone to laminitis

Feeding horses with laminitis can mean avoiding grass entirely, depending on their health or weight status. Always adhere to veterinary advice when considering turnout for a laminitis-prone horse. Vets recommend active laminitis cases be kept indoors in a deep, soft bed to minimise the risk, or degree, of pedal bone rotation.

Generally speaking, the grass is at its most dangerous for laminitis-prone (i.e. producing the most sugar) when it is…

experiencing flush, fresh growth
under stress from over-grazing
covered with frost on a bright morning where temperatures are below 4ºC (as sugar is produced but cannot be used for growth)

“For an overweight pony in light work, ideally we want to limit access to fresh grazing,” explains Kate. “If he needs additional fibre, ensure it is a low WSC hay or haylage, and consider soaking to reduce sugars.”

Many laminitics are notoriously good-doers, and love their food. Research shows that ponies on restricted turnout can adapt both bite rate and the amount taken in each bite, so that they can essentially eat as much in three hours as they would naturally do in 12 hours.

“Think of ways that you can maximise the time turned out, but still control access to grazing. It’s best to avoid a small cornered off area as that encourages them to stand and eat; natural movement is what we want. Track systems can be really useful, if practical, alternatively look at using a grazing muzzle or strip grazing to limit intake whilst encouraging mobility,” continues Kate.

But what about the horse in a higher level of work? The basic feeding principle with a laminitis-prone animal is really the same as with any horse, and that is “feed to work done”.

“For a fit but insulin-resistant eventer, we might be looking at alfalfa chaffs and controlled grazing, with additional oil, to provide all the energy they need,” explains Kate. “Supplement these with concentrated vitamins and trace elements to balance the diet.”

Prevention is better than a cure

If your horse is prone to laminitis, it’s important to regularly body condition score them to monitor their weight.

Ask for advice from your vet or nutritionist if you’re unsure how to do it. Plus, keep a record so you can track the results. Taking photos can also be useful.

“One of the key messages is working towards stopping laminitis happening rather than dealing with it,” Lizzie Drury, senior nutritionist at Saracen Horse Feeds.

“Be on high alert with your horse, particularly if he’s prone to laminitis, and don’t allow him to become overweight. Be constantly aware of what and how much you’re feeding him and his exercise level. Ask whether he needs to be rugged. Be aware 365 days a year,” she concludes.

Feeding competition horses prone to laminitis

The effect of the diet on laminitic horses is complex, and requires expert tailored advice from a nutritionist. Spillers nutritional content manager Vanessa Allen emphasises “prioritising health over performance”.

“We would recommend feeds based on body condition first and ridden energy levels second,” she explains. “For good-doers, balancers would be the first choice. Ensure all essential nutrients are provided, then choose a balancer specifically aimed at harder-working horses. Protein quality is just as important as quantity – for example, deficiency in lysine can limit protein synthesis, affecting muscle health and overall performance.”

Even if you feel your competition horse needs more oomph, if he’s prone to laminitis, most traditional competition course mixes are off the menu.

“This can make balancing energy levels difficult,” says Vanessa. “Some low-starch, high-energy performance feeds could be sensible options, ideally providing energy from oil and fibre rather than cereal.”

Meal sizes are another factor when considering starch and sugar intake, don’t just look at percentages.

“A balancer with a combined starch and sugar content of 15% provides just 75g of starch and sugar when fed at 500g per day; a feed with just 5% provides 150g when fed at 3kg per day,” Vanessa points out.

“As a guide, restrict non-structural carbohydrate (NSC) or ‘starch or sugar’ to less than 0.5g per kilogram of body weight per meal – less than 250g for a 500kg horse – for those who are not severely insulin-dysregulated. For the latter, seek advice from a nutritionist or vet; testing the horse’s insulin response to their normal feed and/or forage may be helpful.”

For laminitics in particular, Vanessa warns: “It’s important to tackle the whole diet, with potentially stricter forage and grass management – don’t just concentrate on the bucket feed. Consider all strategies to reduce sugar intake: soaking hay and reducing access to grazing.”

Vanessa would also recommend having your forage analysed for water soluble carbohydrate (via the “wet chemistry” method) to discover if it is suitable for your horse to eat.

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No time to ride? Use this quick and easy to set up in-hand pole layout to engage your horse mentally and physically

Martha Terry — Wed, 10 Jun 2026 10:31:29 +0000

When you don’t have the time or motivation to ride, but still want to give your horse a constructive session, incorporating polework exercises as part of your groundwork training is one solution.

This in-hand groundwork exercise is ideal for establishing good communication with your horse from the ground, engaging them physically and mentally, as well as building their core strength and proprioception (body awareness). With one groundwork setup, you can practise a variety of lines and work on different areas of the body.

Aims

Encourage accuracy and precision on the straight lines
Develop flexion, core strength and engagement over the poles and round tight corners
Mental stimulation and increased proprioception

The setup

Setup: four poles arranged in a square shape with each one touching end to end

You will need: a training halter, lunging cavesson, or your horse’s usual bridle

This one simple pole layout gives you several options (Image credit: creditUnknown)

How to do the exercise

First lead your horse around a few laps of the arena on each rein, checking he is listening to you by making frequent transitions to halt. You can also ask him to rein-back or do some basic lateral work. Your horse should be walking actively forwards and straight, as you would expect under saddle.
Approach one side of the square in the centre of the poles and walk directly through, keeping on the same straight line as if you were riding a centre line in a dressage test (see green line above). Repeat this on the opposite axis and on both reins. You can incorporate halts in the middle of the square.
Next, try diagonal lines through the square (see orange line above), walking in and out over the corners. This requires a bigger step from the horse to clear the right angle. Always focus on staying straight – it’s easier for the horse to veer away from the point. Also incorporate transitions to halt in the middle.
To introduce bend, set up a curved line which asks the horse to step over each pole on an angle (see black line on the left above). You can adjust the curve to make the bend easier or harder to improve your horse’s flexibility and work on both reins.
Another pattern to try is loops in and out of the square, changing bend through the centre – it’s a small space, so your horse will have to be clever with his footwork
Work up to walking a complete circle over one corner of the square (black line top right), which requires your horse to bend through their ribs and be aware of their foot placement to clear the poles. Adjust the size of the circle to suit your horse.
Finally you can ask your horse to work on his suppleness by turning a small circle around the inside of the square (black line inside the poles). This will require him to engage the inside hindleg and develop his flexibility (see note below).

Tips and troubleshooting

1. Larger circles

If walking a tight circle around the inside of the square is too taxing, try initially circling around the outside, which gives your horse more space. However, he should be able to work up to manoeuvring around the inside with practice.

2. Progress

To increase the difficulty level, raise the poles (using risers like these) to place a greater demand on the core strength and hindleg engagement.

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Test and improve your horse’s adjustability with this eventer-favourite two-pole canter exercise

Bethany Stone — Mon, 08 Jun 2026 14:51:17 +0000

When it comes to lengthening and shortening the canter, this simple exercise is a must-try

Speak to any event rider about how to improve canter adjustability and, more often than not, they’ll recommend this polework exercise – but it’s not just useful for competitors.

When you’re schooling at home, this simple two-pole setup takes the guesswork out of lengthening and shortening the canter stride. It will reveal much about your horse’s strength, as well as just how effective your aids are, all while you’re working on improving the canter.

For young horses, it offers a framework for learning to shorten – establish the aids and mechanics here to set him up for dressage movements, variations within the pace (such as extended canter and collected canter) and course riding.

Aims

improve canter adjustability
refine the rider’s aids
engage the hindleg

The setup

You need: two poles placed on the three-quarter line – it doesn’t matter about the distance between them

No need to stride out the pole distance – that’s for your horse to work out. (Image credit: creditUnknown)

How to ride the exercise

Once warmed up, approach the poles in an active, rhythmic working canter. Aim for the middle and to maintain the rhythm without interfering too much. Your horse should look and adjust to meet the poles in the middle of the stride.
Repeat, noting how many strides your horse fits comfortably and consistently down the line without interference.
Now, still your seat over the first pole and make the shortening adjustments needed to fit an extra stride.
Re-establish the working canter pace. Then ride forward over the first pole and open the canter to travel down the line in one stride fewer.
Repeat, varying the number of strides you aim for each time.

Things to note

1. Don’t panic about half strides…

… or if your horse breaks into trot. This only means your horse is finding it tricky to engage the hind leg to shorten or maintain the power for a longer stride. Practice will improve his ability and interpretation of your aids.

2. The exercise doesn’t end with the second pole

Be mindful of your approach and getaway; you should still aim for a straight line and a quality corner. Furthermore, ensure the canter retains its quality, balance and control away from the second pole, and that your horse doesn’t lose momentum or get too onward bound.

3. Take breaks

Your horse may get tired, and some may become excited as they anticipate what’s to come. Take care to walk your horse if he’s blowing, or spend a couple of minutes working on something else if he lights up. It can help to give young or sharper horses a shorter approach to the poles. As ever, match the length and intensity of a schooling session to your horse’s age, fitness and ability level.

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Transform your 20m circles into a productive schooling exercise for increased suppleness and focus

Martha Terry — Sun, 07 Jun 2026 08:30:54 +0000

This spiral circle exercise can help you avoid getting stuck in a rut of riding aimless 20m circles. With a bit of focus, you can turn those circles into a really productive flatwork exercise.

Aim

to improve your horse’s suppleness, engagement and focus.

The setup

Setup: No setup required. All you need is enough space to trot a 20m circle.

Spiral in gradually, and then leg-yield back out on one circle. (Image credit: creditUnknown)

How to ride the spiral circles exercise

Once warmed up, pick up an active trot on a 20m circle. Make sure your horse is bending correctly on the line of the circle, with your inside leg on the girth and outside leg just behind.
Use the outside leg to spiral in to a 15m circle, then 12m then 10m.
Your horse should not be falling in or out, but maintaining the bend through his body as the circle gets tighter.
Leg-yield back out to a 20m circle, using your inside leg to outside rein.

You can repeat a few times, working on your horse’s suppleness and response to your aids, and they should soften. Adjust the size of the smaller circle, and how quickly you return to the larger circle, to be appropriate for the horse’s level of training.

Repeat the exercise in canter if you’re both ready for it. When you spiral in, your horse will need to collect the canter strides a little while maintaining their bend and impulsion.

Tips and troubleshooting

1. Falling in

All horses will be stiffer on one rein and this spiralling exercise will help. Keep the inside leg on the girth, encouraging your horse to bend through his body, and your weight on the inside seat bone. Support the outside shoulder with the outside rein.

Check you are not pulling the horse’s head round and back with your inside hand, instead opening the inside hand to guide him. Turn your shoulders in the direction of the turn, don’t lean inwards.

2. Falling out

Use your outside leg behind the girth to prevent the quarters swinging out. The outside rein should guide and contain the shoulder.

The inside leg should encourage your horse to lift through his ribcage rather than sinking. Keep your weight on the inside seat bone.

3. Slowing down

This is a sign that your horse is finding this exercise is challenging. Stay in trot and repeat little and often in your schooling schedule as it will gradually improve their suppleness. You should find that he is much softer on a 20m circle after doing this exercise.

In canter, your horse will have to take shorter strides to make the tighter circle. Keep the rhythm and impulsion to enable him to maintain the canter quality throughout the spiral.

4. Flying changes

Sometimes in canter, when riders apply the inside leg to leg yield back out to the 20m circle, the horse does a flying change. Make sure your leg is on the girth and not behind.

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Encourage your horse to lift and lengthen with the help of this zig-zag polework layout

Tania grantham — Sat, 06 Jun 2026 07:30:13 +0000

This zig-zag polework exercise is particularly useful for encouraging more lift, cadence and expression within the paces.

Polework exercises are a really effective way to develop a horse’s strength, balance and way of going. The unusual shape created by the zig-zag poles, combined with the spacing between them, encourages the horse to sit more on the hindquarters, lift through the core and open the shoulder. It is an excellent exercise for horses who tend to run onto the forehand or become flat through the body.

Aims

Improve your ability to keep your horse straight and upright
Encourage your horse to push more actively from behind
Develop greater lift, cadence and shoulder freedom within the pace

The setup

You will need: four standard 3m poles

Setup: Set the poles out in a zig-zag formation along the three-quarter line. The gaps between each section should be approximately the length of one pole. A simple way to build this is to create an initial triangle shape, then move the base pole to begin the next section of the zig-zag.

Set out a zig-zag of poles along the three-quarter line (Image credit: creditUnknown)

How to ride the exercise

1. After your usual warm up, start by riding walk-trot-walk transitions, focusing on your horse reacting promptly from the leg, stepping forwards into the contact while remaining balanced and waiting for the half-halt.

2. Before introducing the full exercise, ride over a single pole on different lines across the school. This allows the horse to understand that poles are part of the session and helps establish relaxation. You can ride over the single pole in walk, trot or canter.

3. When ready, turn onto a line that takes you directly through the centre of the zig-zag. Make your turn early enough that both you and the horse are completely straight before reaching the first pole. Ride through in an active, forward-thinking trot, maintaining rhythm and balance throughout. Straightness is crucial. If the horse drifts left or right, the distances immediately become uneven and the exercise loses its intended effect.

Pitfalls to avoid

1. Loss of straightness

If the horse drifts off line, the distances between the poles will no longer ride correctly. Practise riding straight lines away from the track before attempting the exercise. When riding through the poles, some horses benefit from the rider carrying the hands slightly lower and wider, with a more supportive upper leg to help maintain straightness and alignment.

2. Spooking or stopping

The unusual pole angles can look visually challenging to some horses. This is partly what makes the exercise effective, as horses do not naturally have strong close-up vision and must learn to assess the question while staying relaxed.

If your horse feels tense or unsure, begin by riding the line in walk to allow them time to process the exercise. You may also choose to remove one or two poles initially until their confidence improves.

3. Rushing or breaking into canter

Horses who find lift and lengthening difficult often try to solve the question by quickening or cantering. Focus on the clarity of your trot aids. Use more half-halts if needed, alongside a quieter, slower seat.

Some horses find the exercise easier with the rider rising; others prefer a sitting trot. Whichever you choose, stay tall through your upper body, avoid tipping forwards and remember the value of the voice. A quiet “steady” or “trot” can often help maintain rhythm and confidence.

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Master your corners with this simple walk transition exercise to improve accuracy and impress the judges

Martha Terry — Fri, 05 Jun 2026 10:45:16 +0000

One of the easiest ways to impress a dressage judge is by riding accurate corners. But it’s not just about scoring high marks; improving how you ride corners encourages the correct bend, suppleness, straightness and balance from the horse with the rider prioritising using their seat and leg, over their hands. This is the foundation for all lateral movements and more advanced work.

Here’s how to work on your discipline and accuracy round the bends with the help of a simple flatwork exercise.

Aims

to ride into the corners of the arena
achieving bend through the horse’s whole body, without drifting in or out
to encourage straightness and suppleness
improve your transitions

The setup

Setup: No setup required, but you do need an arena – whether permanent or marked out in a field – so that you have corners to ride into.

Rebalance for the corners by making a transition from trot to walk before turning. (Image credit: creditUnknown)

How to ride the exercise

Once you’re warmed up, ride a 20m square in trot, turning across the school from E to B (or B to E, depending on the rein).
Two strides before each corner, ask your horse to walk. Imagine your horse’s whiskers touching edge of school so that you ride deep into the corner, then turn and trot out. The downward transition should help rebalance your horse.
As you approach each corner your horse should begin to naturally take their balance back on to the hindleg as they anticipate the downward transition. When you feel this, you can continue around the corner in trot without walking.
Build up to a consistent trot rhythm on the whole square, without changing tempo or cutting any corners, then repeat on the other rein.
If you feel the horse fall in or try to cut a corner, do the next one in walk.

Tips

1. Stop the drift

If your horse tries to cut the corner, half halt and check your inside leg is there to encourage them to bend their body around your leg through the corner.

2. Building up

Once your horse is becomes more consistent, instead of walking in the corners, just half-halt to rebalance the trot before the turn.

3. Progress

As the balance of both horse and rider develops, you will be able to ride a consistent trot rhythm through the whole square without cutting any corners. If you lapse at any stage, go back to walk and establish correct corners again so the horse understands what you are asking him to do.

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Practise changing leads over poles or jumps with this figure-of-eight layout

Martha Terry — Thu, 04 Jun 2026 08:45:46 +0000

Being able to change your horse’s canter lead while in the air over a jump might seem daunting, but it’s a necessary skill if you want to ensure a smooth jumping round – and be competitive. Plus, horses do flying changes naturally in the field all the time. Use this figure of eight jumping exercise to master lead changes in the air at home so you can save vital seconds when it counts.

Aim

use a four-fence set-up to practise and improve lead changes over a fence

The setup

You will need: four fences – you can use cavaletti, full jumps with wings, or ground poles – and cones or markers if you have them.

Setup: construct two sets of two fences at right angles with a distance of approx 20m between the points of each set as shown in the diagram. You can set the fence at whatever height is appropriate, or even start with poles on the ground.

If you have cones, place them as a guide about 10m from the point where each set of two fences meet, at each end.

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

How to ride the exercise

Once warmed up and ready to jump, in left lead canter ride around the cone to the first fence (red) – follow the black line in the diagram above.
Change lead in the air. By looking round to the next fence in the sequence (yellow), the natural shift in bodyweight and direction sends the message to the horse to land with the new leading leg. If you and your horse have not yet established changing leads over fences, see “tips and troubleshooting” below.
Go round the outside of the other set of fences (blue/green) on the right leg.
Jump the next fence (yellow), changing to the left lead in the air.
Go round the cone and repeat. After a rest, repeat on the other rein.

For a more testing challenge, you can come inside the second set of fences making a tighter circle (following the white line), increasing the focus on your rhythm and balance.

Do the same over the blue and green fences to mix it up. Just switch the direction of the set-up, starting on the left of the diagram above, so that you jump the blue and green jumps and go around the yellow and red ones.

Tips and troubleshooting

1. My horse won’t change leg

All horses have a favourite leg to land on, so training them to land on a particular lead takes practice, starting by making sure your aids are super clear and consistent.

Do not lean into the new direction as this can throw your horse off balance. Instead, sit straight and balanced, looking ahead in the new direction.

Support your horse with the new outside rein, and put the new inside leg on at the girth while opening your new inside hand in the direction you are turning.

2. Course-building tactics

If you build one set of fences small and the other slightly higher, you can start over the small set and not have to dismount to adjust before jumping the bigger one.

3. Mix it up

With this set-up you can also practise riding dog-leg turns.

4. Keep it smooth

Being able to change legs in the air will save you time and enable you to produce smooth, rhythmic rounds in competition. Keep thinking ahead, preparing for the next fence as you jump each one.

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Hone your horse’s responsiveness with this super-simple exercise you can practise anywhere

Martha Terry — Wed, 03 Jun 2026 08:30:32 +0000

Improving your horse’s way of going doesn’t require a perfect arena or a strenuous workout – this halting exercise is an excellent example. You can make significant gains using simple transitions without ever moving faster than a walk. You can ride this flatwork exercise out hacking, in the field or in an arena.

Aims

to improve your horse’s responsiveness
hone your horse’s walk-halt transitions, so you can perform them on demand with light aids
for the horse to understand that go means go, and stop means stop

Setup

No setup needed: You can practise this exercise in an arena, field or out hacking.

(Image credit: creditUnknown)

How to ride this exercise

Once warmed up, establish an active walk. Choose a marker, whether it’s a letter in the school or a bush on a hack, where you will aim to halt.
Sit up tall and reduce the amount your core and hips are following your horse’s back, then gently close your fingers around the rein to ask for halt.
If the horse doesn’t stop within two strides, check your aids. Were they clear? Repeat and be black and white. As soon as your horse halts, release the rein and praise, with the voice or a stroke on the neck. How long it took to achieve the halt will give you feedback on how early you need to prepare next time, but your horse should become more responsive as you practise.
Take a moment to assess the halt. Is it balanced? Is your horse square? Does your horse stand still when you release the reins?
Ask your horse to move off in walk by giving a light leg aid. If he doesn’t react positively from first touch, immediately reapply the leg clearly. If he still doesn’t react, don’t nag, but give a stronger leg aid – it doesn’t matter if the horse trots off as long as he goes forwards. More refined seat and back aids can come later, but the horse can only interpret a limited amount of information, so start with the basics.
Practise this exercise at regular intervals until your horse is responsive while remaining soft and in a good balance through both the upward and downward transitions. You can do it after four strides or after 40 – what matters is that the horse is listening and responding to your aids.

Tips and troubleshooting

1. It’s a conversation

Give your horse a chance to understand what you’re asking him and try to make it enjoyable. When he tries, show him you appreciate his effort.

2. Don’t fidget with your hand and leg

Many riders never stop twittering with their hand and leg, so the horse learns to ignore them as he doesn’t understand what’s being asked. Ride with clear intent. Ask for a reaction and then leave your horse alone as a reward. Be decisive and have clear boundaries.

3. Let your horse find his balance

If your horse needs to put his head up initially to find his balance, let him. To start with, it’s about the legs: do they go, do they whoa?

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How often you really need to have your saddle checked, plus advice from a Society of Master Saddlers master saddle fitter

Georgia Guerin — Tue, 02 Jun 2026 09:15:54 +0000

Booking a saddle fitting and getting your horse’s saddle checked is something all horse owners should be doing regularly, but it can fall by the wayside until there’s an issue. It doesn’t matter whether you’ve got a second-hand GP saddle, a custom-made dressage saddle or something in between, good saddle fit is essential to your horse’s welfare.

We asked Ruth Spencer, a master saddle fitter who also serves on the board of Society of Master Saddlers (SMS) assessors, to explain how often you really need to get your saddle checked and answer some other need-to-know questions about saddle fitting.

How often should you get your saddle checked?

As a general rule, saddles should be checked at least every six to 12 months.

“This is in line with guidance from the Society of Master Saddlers,” Ruth explains, “however, it isn’t a one-size-fits-all approach. Horses in regular work, young horses, those changing shape through training, or those coming back into work after time off may need more frequent checks.

“In contrast, a mature horse in consistent, light work with a stable condition may be fine with annual checks – but it’s important not to become complacent, as subtle changes can still occur over time,” she warns.

What factors affect saddle fit?

A horse’s shape is not static, so saddle fit can change for a variety of reasons, but riders can also affect how the saddle fits and performs, Ruth explains.

These factors include:

changes in horse weight
muscle development (or loss)
fitness levels
age
workload
seasonal factors, such as availability of grazing
changes in rider weight
rider position or balance

Additionally, the saddle itself can alter over time through flocking compression, wear or tree movement.

Running your hand under the panels regularly will help pick up any early signs of change. (Image credit: Andrew Sydenham)

What can owners do between checks to ensure good fit?

There are several simple but effective checks owners can do regularly, Ruth reveals.

You should look for:

Even contact and balance – the saddle should sit level and not tip forward or back
Clearance and symmetry – check there is adequate clearance over the withers and that the saddle sits evenly on both sides
Horse’s way of going – monitor changes in performance, willingness, or behaviour under saddle

“Consistently running your hands under the panels and observing your horse before and after work can help you pick up early signs of change,” she advises.

Signs a saddle doesn’t fit as well as it should

Common indicators include:

uneven sweat patterns
dry patches
ruffled hair under the saddle
reluctance to be tacked up
resistance under saddle
hollowing
change in performance
muscle wastage
soreness
sensitivity when grooming around the saddle area

A well-qualified, independent saddle fitter should be able to assess a wide range of saddles. (Image credit: creditUnknown)

Who can check saddle fit?

Owners should look for a fitter qualified through the SMS, such as a qualified saddle fitter (QSF). This ensures they have undergone recognised training, assessment, and adhere to professional standards. You can find more information about saddle fitting qualifications at mastersaddlers.co.uk.

Ruth adds that “ongoing professional development and insurance are also important indicators of a reputable practitioner”.

Regarding specific brands, Ruth says that a well-qualified, independent saddle fitter should be able to assess a wide range of saddles.

“Some brands do have specific design features, however, so a fitter with experience or training in that brand can be beneficial in some cases,” she adds.

“Ultimately, the priority should be the fitter’s qualifications, experience, and ability to work objectively in the horse’s best interest.”

How long does a standard saddle fit check take?

A standard saddle check typically takes 45–90 mins. It should include assessing the horse statically and in motion, templating, evaluating the saddle on and off the horse, checking flocking and balance, and observing the rider where possible.

Any necessary adjustments, such as flocking, may be carried out on the day or scheduled for a later date.

How much does saddle fitting cost?

As with many costs of keeping a horse, prices can vary depending on location and the level of service, Ruth explains, but costs “typically range from around £50 to £100 for a standard check, with additional costs for adjustments such as reflocking”.

She advises that it is always worth clarifying what’s included in the fee before booking an appointment.

“I struggle to find someone willing to check a saddle they haven’t sold me” – any advice?

Ruth agrees that this is a common frustration, but says “there are good fitters who will assess any saddle objectively”.

She suggests searching the SMS register to find qualified professionals in your area.

“When contacting fitters, be upfront about your needs – many will offer a check-and-advice service even if you’re not looking to purchase. Building a relationship with a trusted fitter over time can also make future appointments easier,” says Ruth.

“It’s worth remembering that an ethical, professional fitter’s priority should always be the welfare of the horse, regardless of where the saddle was purchased.”

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Boost the quality of your horse’s canter with this straightforward poles routine

Martha Terry — Tue, 02 Jun 2026 09:10:11 +0000

Poles are a useful tool to improve the quality and balance of your horse’s paces, strengthening the core and boosting cadence. You don’t need intricate patterns and dozens of poles to work on the canter – this polework exercise to improve canter quality requires just three or four poles.

Aims

to improve your horse’s canter quality
work on the quality and balance of your horse’s canter
help the rider to feel the canter rhythm and see a distance

The setup

You need: three or four poles

Setup:

Place three or four poles on a straight line with approximately 3m between each (adjust this according to what suits your horse or pony, aiming for an easy, balanced canter).
If setting up in an arena, place the poles in the middle of the long side, so that you have sufficient space both to approach and after.

Adjust the distance between the poles so the striding is set at a comfortable canter for your horse (Image credit: creditUnknown)

How to ride the exercise

Once warmed up, ride a good corner to give a straight approach to the canter poles, counting your horse’s strides out loud.
Focus on the centre of the poles and aim to canter smoothly over them in the same rhythm, without your horse having to stretch or chip.
If your horse is rushing, sit up and half-halt. If your horse is struggling to reach each pole, keep your leg on, and if that still doesn’t work, shorten the distance so he is comfortable.

You can repeat this exercise several times on each rein, aiming for a regular, relaxed canter rhythm without resistance.

Tips and troubleshooting

1. I can’t see a stride

If you keep getting the distance to the first pole wrong, the whole exercise can disintegrate with poles flying everywhere. It may be too much for your horse to handle mentally, so start with just one pole and practise cantering into that. Once you’ve nailed meeting a single pole correctly, build back up to three or four poles – avoid two as that encourages your horse to jump the lot.

2. My horse rushes towards the poles on the approach

Sit up and ask your horse to halt and stand as soon as he grabs the bit. Reassure him, then quietly turn away and approach again. Keep asking him to stop and stand until he approaches on your terms.

3. My horse jumps the poles

Some horses just do! Repeat the exercise a few times until hopefully he relaxes and canters through quietly. Don’t worry too much if he jumps them, so long as he’s maintaining his canter quality.

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Teach your horse to rein-back from the ground to engage their core and release tension

Martha Terry — Mon, 01 Jun 2026 10:32:11 +0000

Rein-back from the ground involves working with your horse, unridden, to train him to step backwards calmly and without resistance in response to simple cues.

We use groundwork exercises to teach our horses cues from the ground, so that they clearly understand what is being asked, while also improving balance, suppleness, coordination and core strength.

Aims

establish good manners, relaxation and softness from the ground
engage your horse’s core and achieve response to your cues or aids
release tension and relax your horse

The setup

You will need:

Usual bridle, without reins (or twisted and secured inside the throat-lash), or a training halter or lunging cavesson
Lunge line or long rope
Schooling whip

No setup required: you can do this in an arena, outside the stable, in a field or on the yard if you have sufficient space.

Your horse’s legs should move in diagonal pairs as they step back (Image credit: creditUnknown)

How to rein-back from the ground

If your horse is wearing a bridle, attach the lunge line or long rope to the opposite bit ring to whichever side you are standing, and thread the line through the inside bit ring. For a headcollar, have the rope attached behind the chin. For a lunging cavesson, have the line attached to the central ring at the front.

Position yourself facing the horse’s tail while standing slightly to one side of the horse’s head, with the horse standing fairly square.
Applying gentle downward pressure to the rope, to ask the horse to step back, while using your voice to say “back”.
You can also point the whip towards the horse’s front hooves or chest to encourage the horse to step backwards.
As soon as the horse takes one step backwards, release the pressure and praise the horse.
Wait for a moment to allow the horse to process what they’ve learnt, then repeat the cue or ask.
Halt and stand still for a few moments.
Lift the rope and step backwards yourself to encourage the horse forwards one or two steps, then stop to stand again.
If the horse doesn’t understand the cue to walk forwards, point the whip behind the girth, following up with a light touch if needed.

You can repeat this exercise several times until the horse understands what you are asking and will move forward and back confidently without resistance. To start with he may only manage one or two strides, but you can build up to six or more.

Tips and troubleshooting

1. Diagonal pairs

You want to see the horse stepping cleanly backwards moving his legs in diagonal pairs, rather than shuffling or dragging their feet.

2. Good foundations

Reaching rein-back from the ground early in a horse’s training can help prevent the horse from learning to lean on you when you are handling them from the ground. Once it is established on the ground, the horse should understand the movement much more easily when ridden.

3. No rushing

The aim is for the horse to step back deliberately and confidently, in a relaxed frame with his poll at a similar height to his withers. You want to avoid the horse becoming tight in the neck or back and raising the head during this movement. If this happens stop, give the horse a moment to relax, and then ask again.

4. Pre-ride softness

This is a great warm-up exercise to do before riding, especially if your horse is sharp, as it encourages him to slow down and work with you without too much pressure. You can also do it tacked up, just secure the stirrups so they don’t bang on your horse’s sides.

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A simple polework exercise to help distinguish between sharper corners and rounder circles

Tania grantham — Sun, 31 May 2026 09:30:15 +0000

Riding accurate corners is one of the simplest ways to improve a dressage test. Just as importantly, riders must be able to show a clear difference between the corners of the arena and a 20m circle at either end.

Too often, horses drift through the corners as though riding part of a circle, losing both balance and accuracy, but this polework exercise will create a visual guide to help you clearly distinguish between riding a corner and riding a circle.

Aims

Improve rider understanding of the accuracy points of a 20m circle
Encourage your horse to bend correctly through the body
Maximise the benefit of riding purposeful corners in a test

The setup

You need: two poles

Setup: Place one pole in each corner either side of C, positioned slightly off the track and pointing diagonally towards the centre of the arena.

Pole placement should suit your horse’s training level – more advanced horses will be able to ride deeper corners (Image credit: creditUnknown)

How to ride the exercise

1. Begin in walk. Ride around the end of first pole, then continue straight along the short side towards A or C. Focus on maintaining a straight line after the turn without allowing the horse to drift.

2. From A or C, begin a 20m circle. Your horse should leave the track to cross the first pole, touch the long side at the correct point, cross the centre line in the middle of the circle, touch the opposite long side evenly, then cross the second pole before returning to A or C.

3. After completing the circle, continue straight along the short side and ride around the end of the pole through the corner. The key is to clearly show the difference between the circle and the corner. For the corner, think about pushing the horse into the turn from your inside leg while controlling the line and balance from the outside aids. Once the exercise feels established in walk, repeat it in trot and then progress to canter.

Pitfalls to avoid

1. Lack of bend on the circle

Many horses fall through the shoulder or overbend in the neck without truly bending through the body. Prepare the circle before leaving the track by asking for a slight flexion at the poll to the inside. Then focus on riding a genuinely curved line, turning every stride rather than making one large steering movement. Keep the inside leg at the girth to encourage bend and maintain the horse’s balance.

2. Rushing

Some horses anticipate the poles and quicken towards them. Maintain a consistent tempo by paying attention to your seat and rhythm in each pace. Use well-timed half-halts to rebalance the horse and encourage them to sit more on the hindquarters rather than running forwards.

3. Breaking from canter

In canter, horses often lose balance in the corners and drop back to trot. Think of riding a shorter, more collected canter through the corner, keeping the strides active and bouncy. On the circle, allow the canter to travel slightly more forwards before rebalancing again for the next corner. Pole placement should always suit the horse’s training level. A prelim horse will not be expected to ride as deep or as collected a corner as a horse working at elementary or above.

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Develop your horse’s engagement in canter with this quick transition exercise

Martha Terry — Sat, 30 May 2026 13:45:24 +0000

You can practise this simple flatwork exercise in just five minutes, or use it every now and then in a regular schooling session to encourage engagement. All you need is to establish shoulder-in in trot, and you’re away.

Aims

to improve your horse’s engagement in canter
to use shoulder-in to encourage your horse to engage his hindleg in the upward transition from trot

The setup

No setup required: you can do this in the arena or even out hacking, but the arena fence is handy to help you judge the alignment of your shoulder-in.

Making the canter transition out of shoulder-in will encourage hindleg engagement (Image credit: creditUnknown)

How to ride the exercise

Once warmed up, trot down the long side of the arena in shoulder-in, showing the appropriate amount of bend.
Your horse’s footfalls should be on three tracks: the outside hind, the diagonal pair (inside hind and outside fore) and the inside fore, with your horse bending uniformly around the inside leg from poll to tail.
Ask for a canter transition as you move on to a circle. As your horse should be nicely engaged from the shoulder-in, this should encourage an engaged uphill canter with the hindquarters working well.
Maintain the quality of canter as you continue around the circle.

When riding shoulder-in, your horse’s footfalls should be on three tracks. (Image credit: creditUnknown)

Tips and troubleshooting

1. The correct bend

In the shoulder-in, as a rider you should be able to see your horse’s inside eye if you glance down. If you use too much inside bend, the outside shoulder will fall out, which will compromise your canter transition.

If the hindquarters drift out, your outside leg needs to support your horse more strongly behind the girth.

2. No crossing the hand

A common problem is to cross the inside hand over the neck as you try to flex the horse to the inside. This encourages the shoulder to fall out, so keep each hand on its own side of the neck with the outside rein to support the shoulders.

3. Starting collection

This exercise will be even more beneficial if the horse is able to collect a little in the trot, as this lightens the forehand for an uphill, balanced transition.

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Boost your horse’s suppleness and manoeuvrability using five poles on the ground

Martha Terry — Fri, 29 May 2026 09:15:32 +0000

This polework exercise using five poles is designed to improve your horse’s suppleness and manoeuvrability in trot. The poles are used as focus points to structure your training exercise, rather than for stepping over.

Aims

to improve rider accuracy
to confirm correct use of inside and outside leg
to improve the horse’s coordination and suppleness

The setup

You need: five poles

Setup: place five poles on a straight line with five metres between each. Then pull the second and fourth poles to one side but keeping them in the same plane.

Ensure there is sufficient space to the side of each pole so that you can walk around the ends – don’t place them against the fence line.

The poles help to keep your focus as you work on your horse’s correct bend (Image credit: creditUnknown)

How to ride the exercise

Once warmed up, establish an active trot.
The aim is not to trot over the poles, but around them, ensuring a uniform bend through your horse’s body on both reins.
Start with the first pole in the line of three poles and ride a pear-drop shaped loop around that, ensuring the horse is bending through his whole body. Then change the bend in an offset figure of eight to perform another pear-drop shaped loop around the first of the line of two poles.
Repeat with the next two poles in the sequence.
When it comes to the final pole, make a wider loop and come up the middle of the two lines in a mini slalom. Instead of big wide loops with lots of bend, it’s now about creating a little bit of bend in the ribcage. The horse needs to be listening to the rider and have quick reactions.

The challenge is to do it efficiently with the horse maintaining the ideal tempo and creating the correct shapes, neither falling in or out through the shoulder and quarters.

Tips

1. Start slow

If this exercise is too demanding in trot, try it first in walk (or try this exercise) until the horse understands your aids and what you are asking of him.

2. Perfection by polework

Polework is a great way for riders to monitor whether they are achieving something when riding on their own, because they require accuracy. If you aren’t accurate, you will miss or hit the poles. When you’re just riding around the arena without physical markers, it’s harder to judge your accuracy.

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Try this exercise to encourage your horse to engage his hindleg from the ground

Martha Terry — Thu, 28 May 2026 13:10:07 +0000

Teaching your horse cues from the ground can show them what you are looking for, as well as improving suppleness, core strength and coordination. This groundwork exercise is useful for helping the horse understand how to engage the hindleg, and for developing suppleness.

Aims

step the inside hindleg under and through
lift the core and engage the back
release tension and relax your horse

The setup

You need:

Usual bridle, without reins (or twisted and secured inside the throat-lash) or training halter or lunging cavesson
Lunge line or long rope (like this one)
Schooling whip

No setup required: you can do this in an arena, in a field or even just outside the stable if you have sufficient space.

The horse should pivot around you, similar to doing a turn about the forehand, stepping the hindleg forward and under the body. (Image credit: creditUnknown)

How to do the exercise

If you are using a bridle. attach the lunge line or rope to the opposite bit ring to whichever side you are working from, and thread the line through the inside bit ring. For a halter the rope will be underneath the horse’s jaw. On a lunge cavesson, have the rope or line attached to the central ring on the front of the nose.

Turn your horse around you, in walk, almost as if lungeing on a 2m circle. Bring the line towards you and point the whip slightly behind the girth.
You are asking your horse to bend through the body, pivoting around you with his front legs on pretty much the same spot, and stepping underneath the belly with his inside hind leg.
Gently maintain your ask until the horse takes the correct forward and under step with the hindleg that is closest to you while softing through their body.
Allow the horse to rest for a moment before asking again.
You can repeat this three or four times on each rein, gradually building up the number of steps.

Tips and troubleshooting

1. Your horse avoids the step under

It’s easier for your horse just to walk around in a circle rather than stepping under and through, but that step underneath the belly is key as that is when they lift their core and soften through the back.

2. Good foundations

Just like ridden lateral work, this exercise helps them soften and become more supple. But sometimes when you’re riding them they don’t understand what they’re asking, so this can be a useful first step.

3. Pre-ride softness

This is a great warm-up exercise to do before riding, especially if your horse is sharp, as it encourages him to soften. You can also do it tacked up, just secure the stirrups so they don’t bang on your horse’s flanks.

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17 ways you can help your horse lose weight

Georgia Guerin — Thu, 28 May 2026 10:56:10 +0000

Having an overweight horse can be incredibly stressful and you’ll find yourself spending a lot of time thinking about how you can help them to lose weight.

Obesity in horses increases the risk of of many health problems, including laminitis, equine metabolic syndrome and joint pain, which makes losing the excess weight all the more important.

Studies indicate that 50–70% of horses in the UK are overweight or obese. Unfortunately because, as a nation of horse owners, we are so used to seeing it, many struggle to recognise when their horse has an issue.

The battle of getting an overweight horse to lose weight is something that I have personal experience of. My pony is the definition of good-doer and when I bought him around 10 years ago he was very overweight. He had a bout of laminitis in our first summer together and after that I became militant. Over the next few years, I worked towards finding a sustainable way to get his weight down and, importantly, keep it off. We eventually hit our stride and he lost more than 100kg over a few years.

Of course, it’s taken a lot of commitment and it’s not all been plain sailing – for example, when we’ve moved yards, each move has required me to reassess how I can manage him best in the new environment with a different setup. Over the past decade I’ve tried almost every tactic and, although it’s hard work, it’s possible to help your horse lose weight – you just need to find what works for you both.

How to help your horse lose weight

Here are some things you can do to help your horse lose weight – the basic principles are “eat less, move more” but there are a number of ways you can arrive at this. You’ll likely need to incorporate multiple changes into your routine in order to see any results, especially if you have a good-doer.

H&H veterinary expert Karen Coumbe agrees that “the feed your horse is consuming is likely to be more important than any exercise, although both need to be considered” when helping your horse to lose weight.

1. Use winter wisely

In the wild, your horse would lose weight naturally over the winter months so if you’re trying to help your horse lose weight you can lean into this. It’s easier to get your horse to lose weight in the winter because it’s colder – so they’re using energy to keep warm – and there’s less grass around, so they’re less likely to overeat.

Horse should come out of winter with their ribs just visible, which will give some scope for natural weight gain when the grass starts to grow.

Over-rugging is a welfare problem and can have serious consequences. (Image credit: creditUnknown)

2. Avoid rugging unnecessarily

Horses do not get cold as quickly as we do and over-rugging an obese horse will prevent them from losing weight. Preventing the natural winter weight loss interferes with your horse’s hormones and they are much more likely to get laminitis in the spring.

Here’s some more information about when horses feel the cold and our rugging guide for every temperature.

3. Restrict grazing

There is more nutrition in pasture and forage that you might realise, warns Karen.

“That must be factored in, which might sound obvious, but is so crucial,” she says.

Ensuring your horse isn’t overeating is a key part of losing and then maintaining weight, and there are a number of ways to do this. It’s important that horses still consume at least 1.5% of their bodyweight each day to keep their gut healthy, so much of this is advice is about extending their eating time to make the same amount last longer, rather than simply eating less.

Here are four options to restrict grazing – you might find that incorporating a combination of these will give the best effect.

4. Reduce turnout

Keeping your horse in a stable or turnout pen for part of the day will reduce their access to grass and allow you to control what they’re eating within that time.

Being turned out at night and in during the day is preferable to the reverse as there are less sugars in the grass at night. They begin to rise again around 10am, so ensure your horse comes in before then.

Strip grazing can work really well for some horses. (Image credit: creditUnknown)

5. Strip graze

Strip grazing gives your horse access to a fresh strip or area of grass each day (or every time you move the fence), and using a follow fence will allow you to rest your pasture once it’s been grazed, too. You’ll need electric fencing to set this up successfully.

6. Implement a track system

A track system usually runs around the perimeter of a field, with water and hay distributed at various points along it to encourage your horse to move.

They often include a variety of surfaces and obstacles, such as small logs, for your horse to negotiate. Many tracks are entirely grass-free, but hay is usually provided ad-lib and horses learn to self-regulate their intake.

A grazing muzzle slows your horse’s intake, but cannot be used 24/7. (Image credit: creditUnknown)

7. Invest in a grazing muzzle

The best grazing muzzles slow your horse’s intake by reducing the amount of grass they can access at one time. Horses cannot wear a grazing muzzle 24/7, so to successfully incorporate this into your management routine, your horse will also need to be stabled or turned out in a bare paddock with hay for some of the day.

8. Extend eating time

Use one of the best small-holed haynets or slow feeders to extend eating time. This can help prevent horses becoming bored and reduces the risk of gastric ulcers. And the more time they spend eating one thing, the less time they have to move on and eat something else.

Keeping track of droppings can help you monitor your horse’s intake. (Image credit: creditUnknown)

9. Count daily poos

A great way to keep an eye on your horses’ intake – even if you’re not trying to get them to lose weight – is to count their droppings. It can be hard to tell how quickly the grass is coming through and how much they’re really eating, but if you poo-pick at regular intervals, you’ll soon notice if their daily output increases. You can then adjust their intake – by reducing hay provision or grazing access – accordingly.

10. Soak your hay

Soaking hay reduces the nutrient quality in the forage (replace the nutrients using a vitamin and mineral supplement). It strips the hay of calories, sugars and fructans, so that you can still feed a good amount to fill your horse and keep his digestive system working well without giving him any extra calories.

You need to soak hay for at least an hour, but if this is not resulting in weight loss then try soaking for longer until it does. Soaking for short periods, such as 10–15 minutes, only reduces the dust levels to help horses with poor respiratory health – it’s not long enough for weight loss.

When soaking hay:

soak it in the shade
use fresh water each time
balance a bucket of water on top to keep hay submerged
ensure the soaked hay still smells good
hang it up to drain and rinse with a bucket of fresh water
always feed straight after draining

11. Eliminate high-calorie feeds

Consider what you’re feeding your horse and whether you need to rethink. Not all horses need a bucket feet, but for those that do there may be a better option. For example, the best feed balancers provide the essential nutrients in a low-calorie package. If your horse is prone to laminitis, check out the feeds suitable for laminitics, as approved by The Laminitis Trust.

If you’re restricting your horse’s grazing and/or soaking hay, you should provide a supplement for horses on reduced grazing to ensure they receive a nutritionally balanced diet, unless you’ve already covered all bases with a balancer.

Introduce any changes gradually to prevent colic or dangerously rapid weight loss.

12. Change up your forage

Consider changing to a different type of forage if your current selection is high energy. For example, if you feed haylage try switching to hay, and if you feed hay consider adding straw to your horse’s ration.

Weighing feed and forage will prevent extras slipping in. (Image credit: creditUnknown)

13. Weigh everything you feed

A little bit extra here and there can really add up if you’re unknowingly feeding more than you intend – it’s so easy to put more in your haynet than you had accounted for. By weighing your feed and forage, you can be sure that your horse is getting exactly what he needs, and you’ll be able to accurately assess the difference made when you increase or decrease feed or forage by small amounts.

Here’s some more information about how much hay to feed a horse.

14. Avoid treats

Don’t give your horse treats for the sake of it – and make sure no one else does, either – as everything adds up. The same logic applies to allowing your horse to snack on his way in from the field or out on a hack.

If you use treats in training, ensure you’re using a super-low-energy option.

15. Increase exercise

You don’t need to be doing super-intense training, but increase the frequency or intensity of your sessions, or both if appropriate. Ask your vet or a trainer for advice if you’re unsure what you should be doing.

My pony only really hacks, but I’ve found that committing to hacking five days a week during the spring and summer months has made a real difference. On days that you’re really pushed for time, remember that a 25-minute brisk walk or quick schooling session is better than nothing at all.

If your horse is retired, consider other ways you can increase their movement, such as a track system, groundwork or walking in hand.

Using a weigh tape is often the simplest way to monitor your horse’s weight loss. (Image credit: creditUnknown)

16. Monitor weight

Monitor your horse’s weight by regularly reviewing your weight loss programme with your vet or nutritionist. Use a weighbridge for accuracy and then assess and record weight weekly using body condition scoring and a weight tape (like this one on Amazon).

“Having something concrete as a measure is useful,” says Karen.

I also like to feel my horse’s neck each day as that’s usually the first place I will notice a difference.

It’s useful to take regular photos – once a fortnight – of your horse standing square so that you can look back on how far you’ve come.

17. Ask for help

If you’re implementing these tips and still struggling or are not sure where to start, Karen recommends seeking “proper dietary advice from your vet or a trained nutritionist”.

She adds that many large feed companies are really helpful in providing sensible advice free of charge, with no obligation to purchase products.

What to do next

Use these tips alongside personalised professional advice to make a weight loss plan for your horse, aiming for steady and consistent loss. Once you’ve decided how you’re going to tackle it, begin by checking your horse’s weight so you have a start point for monitoring.

If you don’t see a change in the first two weeks, tweak your plan to incorporate more tactics to safely reduce intake and increase movement.

For unlimited access to advice on how best to care for your horse, subscribe to the Horse & Hound website

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