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Get to grips with studs

Richard Chard

11 September, 2003

Most riding horses are shod with fullered, concave shoes that offer a certain amount of grip. However, surfaces such as country lanes where the tarmac is worn smooth can be very slippery for the shod horse.

If a horse needs extra grip, the most popular choice for everyday work is the tungsten nail. This is a standard nail with a tungsten carbide pin inserted into the head, which protrudes about 1mm and cuts into the surface as the foot hits the floor.

The nails should alwys be used in pairs of feet, either fronts, backs or all four, to maintain the medial lateral balance of the foot and limb, and as far back as possible, to reduce shock to the hoof as it hits the ground.

The big, square road studs that used to be popular could impact quite seriously on the balance of the foot and, eventually, the whole structure of the leg.

Using studs

Vast numbers of studs are available for competition work, and the rider should have a good idea when the horse has problems, eg on landing over the jump or when cornering.

Farriers will appreciate advanced warning that stud holes are required and can advise on suitable choices. Some carry supplies of studs and most saddlers are well stocked.

Choosing the ideal stud for the ground conditions is vital to ensure they are effective without putting unnecessary stress on the limb. Below is a good basic guide, which can be adapted to suit your horse.

• "Good" grass going: standard jump stud

• Fibrous indoor surfaces: standard jump stud

• Firm ground: long, slim, pointed stud

• Loose sand schools: short dome-topped studs

• Well watered grass: short dome-topped studs

• Varying terrain (cross-country): pointed jump stud

• Slippery on top, firm underneath: fat at the top with pointed lower section

• Boggy, deep going: very large, uniformly fat studs

Stud holes should always be plugged when not in use, to prevent dirt and stones clogging them up. An effective method of plugging the holes is to use cotton wool with a layer of Vaseline. It also makes sense to clean them out the day before a competition, then replug them, rather than attempting it at the show, when the horse may be impatient to get on with the job.

The studs should be maintained carefully as the thread can quickly deteriorate and cross-thread, which can rended them useless, and at worst necessitate a visit from the farrier if one gets stuck in the hole.

Prolonged use of big studs on hard ground can produce vertical fractures in the hoof wall directly above the studs. Other dangers include not removing studs after use and then standing the horse for long periods on hard surfaces or even travelling it home, which can cause a tremendous strain on the soft tissue structures of the foot and limb.

This article was originally published in Horse & Hound magazine.

Related articles:

• Using studs: dos and donts
• Rollestone Stud Farm's "foal cam" is a hit
• Focus on Godington Stud
• Focus on Withcote Hall Stud
• Focus on Haggs Wood Stud
• The competitor's guide to studs

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