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  1. #11
    Old nag CAYLA's Avatar
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    Default Re: Back to square Bloody ONE!!!!

    Is there a posibility there was a warning but you expected him to be ok with the other dog and so you eyes whre no directly on Teal?
    So I read he is ok to walk past dogs on a lead and is ok in free play but may get one nip in before he carries on (then does he interact) and play or mooch around on his own?
    And when a dog comes towards him when he is on a lead he is worse (which to be fair is a huge percentage of the type of behaviour owners truggle with) and of course "watch me" and positive training is all good but you also have to have "control" and confidence in your handling and with some dogs you need some firmness in there. Also do you stand still awaiting he dog to approach or walk towards the dog?
    Some dogs don't like there space invaded and some get a little more protective of other dogs coming towards you or other dogs in their pack aswell as the body language they are reading from the dog approaching so there are many variables.
    How do you react when he dispalys this behaviour?
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  2. #12
    Old nag Toffee44's Avatar
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    Default Re: Back to square Bloody ONE!!!!

    Is there a posibility there was a warning but you expected him to be ok with the other dog and so you eyes whre no directly on Teal?

    I assumed he would be ok as this was a dog he knew daily at yard but normally very focussed on him as we are training

    So I read he is ok to walk past dogs on a lead and is ok in free play but may get one nip in before he carries on (then does he interact) and play or mooch around on his own?
    He never really wants to say hi, he tries to ignore other dogs, he might grumble on lead but never does anything normally (normally being last six months when I thought we were cracking it) I ignore this behaviour

    And when a dog comes towards him when he is on a lead he is worse (which to be fair is a huge percentage of the type of behaviour owners truggle with) and of course "watch me" and positive training is all good but you also have to have "control" and confidence in your handling and with some dogs you need some firmness in there. Also do you stand still awaiting he dog to approach or walk towards the dog?

    If a dog approaches him he tends to tail between legs, slink away in which case I carry on walking and ignore it, reward him when his eyes are on me, if we approach he sniffs I let him off and he just carries on mooching never initiates play with anything except Dylan and Buster occassionally will "hunt" with a few selected dogs we know, in the hedgerows. And if I feel confident I recall, heel (with ball in hand) soon as dog passed squeek ball and throw short distance.

    Some dogs don't like there space invaded and some get a little more protective of other dogs coming towards you or other dogs in their pack aswell as the body language they are reading from the dog approaching so there are many variables.
    How do you react when he dispalys this behaviour?
    This is exactly what I think the problem is, today I told him off 'no' back on lead and walked away with him, I was very taken aback what happened so far down the line
    If walking out together with the others I recall him as he will just run up barking etc even if other dogs including mine are behaving fine so remove him from the scenario entirely. Really think I am going to have to spend out for some one to ones as typing it in front of me it doesnt look right does it?



    Hope you dont mind my reply like that.

  3. #13
    Old nag CAYLA's Avatar
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    Default Re: Back to square Bloody ONE!!!!

    Whilst I would not want to dull down a dogs defense in a situation where they need to react in order to defend themselves I also don't want a dog to lunge/nip/bite in instances where the dog is literallly passing close by or a quick sniff.
    Generally my rules are, if have my dog on lead and another dogs proceeds to approach then my dog will be told to "leave" and I will walk on, if the dog comes like a bulldozer and proceeds to jump all over or ontop of mine then there is little you can do except put your foot out and stand between yours and the other dog or struggle with your dog until it ends up in a huge struggle/possible full o fight, so im affraid I allow my dog to deal with that in there own way, but would also make an attempt to walk on and get them out of the situation or said strange dog would get a harsh boot from me.
    If the dog is simply protecting me/other dogs and lunging at will then a firm check will be in order as my intentions are to let my dog know that is not their job and they do not need to do it.
    I don't allow mine to run up to other dogs agan this is another way of practicing control and the dog should be recalled and my lot esp know the difference when my voice changes and the recall becomes immediate, I do think it is very imporant for them to know the "oops mam is not happy now" compared to "oh, as usual I will come back in my own time"
    I think yo need to best gage the situations you need to use positive distraction and those you need (control) and a firm stance with a command "leave it" as the situaton will could get out of hand.
    Could you out of inerest use a long line in a stooge situation with your friends and see if he has the same reaction when not so close to you and try him with and without the other dogs?
    From here I would recall him when any other dogs are running loose and use a little firm/corrective control aswell as a positive.
    Allow him to mingle with dogs he usually does for some interaction if he chooses.
    I would definately work more on the control of him running towards other dogs and try and get it to teach him that aswell as the positive rewards there is a consiquence for his running up and mouthing off when he is with the other 2, in the form of a quick check and making him stay close until you want to release him. But maybe als soe oneon one time with just you and him out to work on his recall and "leave it".
    The positive method would be as you see dogs approaching then recall him well before the approach and try and keep him at heel with a focus but personally I would want a mix of him knowing something is not accpetable aswell as the rewards.

    Have you worked with a trainer before, what/how did they work with you and what did they advise?
    I really do think in alot of cases the dog cannot diferentiate with day to day handling where there is no clear change in your control methods, so you may have to toughen up a little even in regard to your vocals and body language/reprimand to show him the difference esp in situation you really do need control.
    Last edited by CAYLA; 25-04-12 at 11:56 PM.
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  4. #14
    Old nag CAYLA's Avatar
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    Default Re: Back to square Bloody ONE!!!!

    I ain't going back for typos, i am at work and this key board is ******
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  5. #15
    Old nag CAYLA's Avatar
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    Default Re: Back to square Bloody ONE!!!!

    The bloody puter just threw me off...cheeky git! I added, if you feel you are worried about your reactions to his behaviour inneeding to understand why he is reacting then definately a trained eye on the situation may indeed help.

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